Awesome video! I was looking for this information all over on how to replace the mechanical pressure switch without having to lose pressure to avoid noncondensable entering the system. Thank you!
is the small amount of air in the pressure switch connecting tube negligible??? the system was venting during the quick connection but i am assuming air was not removed from the pressure switch tube.?? just wondering..
This is great video showing real efficient way to change out the pressure control. I like the subtle detail about the 6psi left in the system to do quick change out of the flare fittings.
I got a walk-in freezer compressor is running the fans on the evaporator are running it’s at 50° inside the cooler the low side feels warm high side feels warm I was wondering if you had any suggestions
Funny I did this last week as well same problem. This method is great way to do that and also replace a flared TXV🤓. Refrigerant is only a little bit of vapor escaping the system. Got to do it fast so no moisture or air gets in. Surprised the J/C control failed, usually it’s the cheap rancid or Danfoss ones. I enjoy your videos Chris!
It was actually was a ranco control personally I hate the ranco controls, but I decided to put the ranco back in because it fit perfectly. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Just read commerical refrigeration book by Dick Wirz about packing nut, great stuff, sir. the book also said to closed afterward after done repairs. keep it up with awesome video, thank you Chris.
A really good video on the pressure control switch. I liked the technique of keeping a positive pressure on the low side so that you keep air out of the system while installing the flare nut & cap tube assembly. I am assuming we would want a walk-in cooler pressure control to kick in at 40 degrees & cut off at 35 degrees, hence the 5 PSI differential.
eeh controlling temperature solely with a pressure switch? Sounds a bit wrong in my ears, because the pressure is deciding how much the cooler will cool (temperature difference), not the final temperature. The final temperature depends on many other factors, like how much heat energy the walk-in-cooler collects through the walls, how often the door is opened, and which is the sorrounding temperature outside of the walk-in-cooler (Which temperature it has to "work against"), as a refridgeant system moves a set amount of heat energy from one Place to Another. Using system pressure for temperature Control sounds like it gonna lead to a walk-in-cooler that is "warm" on the summer and "freezing" on the Winter, as the adjacent temperature around the walk-in-cooler will be a tad lower on the Winter, transferring less heat energy through the walls and during door openings, and a tad warmer on the summer, transferring more heat energy through the walls and during door openings. Or is a thermostat wired in series with that pressure switch doing a final temperature Control aswell?
@@sebastiannielsen I work at a hospital & our morgue operates on a pressure switch as well as several reach in case type beverage coolers in the cafeteria. I'm sure the design engineers of the equipment considered all the criteria you listed above. I have never observed any real temperature differences on the equipment in summer or winter. The pressure control eliminates the need of a t-stat so you will not find one on a pressure control piece of equipment. The pressure of the refrigerant & the PT relationship between them will regulate or control the temperature & they work quite well. Thermostats with a gas or liquid charged sensing bulb will operate with the same principle as the pressure control. Heat is always trying to get to a space that is lower in temperature so regardless, the pressure control will react with the changes & operate in accordance to the setpoint of the control, not some other final temperature. If the setpoint is 34 - 39 degrees the pressure control will maintain that setpoint just fine unless the controller goes bad or something else happens to the system.
Thanks so much for watching I am going live this evening 2/18/19 at 5PM (Pacific time) to discuss recent uploads and answer questions from the week. Come on over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/78KjceoUwlc/v-deo.html
When bypassing low pressure control to force the unit to run in an emergency, make sure you also turn down the thermostat and check defrost controls so it doesn't close solenoid and run in vacuum while you picking up the part.
I use your videos as teaching tools for my HVAC mechanics (I am a warehouse maintenance manager). Keep them coming! On a side note, have you ever considered dabbling in industrial refrigeration, such as ammonia? The need for ammonia refrigeration is growing as a result of the Montreal Protocol, but the talent pool is quickly drying up.
I have a system that has one broken low preasure port, one at the evaperator (inaccessible) and one with the preasure switch on it. I guess I have to take the low preasure control off to charge it. Fun times. Why is all of the equipment on UA-cam so nice and the stuff I see is 15+ years old and trashed, lol.
Always enjoy your vids on call going in now to a walkin condenser short cycling erratic according to mgr hop[e you do a vid on short cycling issues looking forward man 👍👍👍
Hello I am kinda a new to low temp, I built mobile walk-in freezers and every time I am going to start them up the compressor stalls and stops. I have to do it several times until is starts working, then after it works it does not do it again. I’ve replaced starting components, compressor, wires has a 75ft long cord and it is a 8 gauge wires. What I started doing is putting thermostat up to 100 so liquid line can pump it down and still doing the same. When the system was new it did no happened. Voltage always no less than 203-208 on ea h leg. What can be the problem and thank you for your videos we are in El Paso tx.
So you work on fyers and restaurant ovens? If so can you please make a video on them? I been watching all of your refrigeration videos and dude you are smart as hell. Imma about to start a job at Wendy's as a maintenance mechanic and I have to know how to fix coolers and ovens I hope you can give me some pointers, I'll even pay you for Paretron private sessions. I'll pay 100 sorry that's all I can afford.
Yeah think of it as a light switch if you test power across a energized light switch that is shut off you will read 120 volts but if you test power across a light switch that is on you will read zero volts because electricity will always take the path of least resistance. Electricity does not want.to work hard!! :-) make sense?
I am going to go live on UA-cam tonight 11/5/18 at 5:00PM pacific time to discuss my most recent uploads and answer questions. Come on over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/JHpAuTzzw6E/v-deo.html
Hi. Very nice the ways you’re explains the job . I am working on draft walking the draft beer do not get that cool the bartenders say at the outside door thermostat do not go below 40 always was at 38 . The compresor get so hot I have water hose run there and low the pressure to 55 Paige low succión line, and I have some bubbles in sight glass and yes temperature go down to 38 . But I don’t know what could be wrong? Thanks for you feedback
I had something similar happen on a Marvair unit today...had and intermittent low pressure lockout scenario due to a failing LP switch. Took a minute to catch the unit doing it though
I have a question this is for a open air case 404a system. Condenser keeps going on and off check pressures ok. Could it be a bad sellenoid? It's a brand new condenser.
Taking a short cut was great. Checking the temp on either side of the dryer. Wouldnt it tell me first if the dryer is good. If not it would need replacing.
Yeah if the system has valves that allow the pressure to be shut off for that particular switch and or if there is a Schrader valve below the control .
The reason I asked I had work on a three phase compressor and I had my sniffer it was leaking from from the packing nut so I front seated removed the nut and the packing was no good anymore and then I called up a few places they told they don’t packing nuts so then I started search on UA-cam an hvac tech said to do it with Teflon so I was asking to see if that’s a good idea or should we replace the receiver bc since the Teflon been on it has not leaked since and ideas would be great just Incase I run into it again thanks in advance
Refrigerant displaces oxygen, so typically when you “purge” the refrigerant will force out any unwanted air. Even when you install a capillary into a service valve the last step would be tighten the nut.
Love your videos they have helped me great deal in Refrigeration. I steeped into a service manager position about 8 months ago and I still watch your videos it’s more now to keep refreshed and to lead my techs in the right direction. We had a call on Masterbilt rack on a freezer cooler combo that I reluctantly accepted the call for. I knew that several companies had been out there working in this box over the last month so that’s what my reluctance was for. Anyway we took the call. It’s a Masterbilt 1.0 setup with Sporlan EEV’s. I know you have installed the Beacon controllers with the EEV’s. What kind of EEV are used with the Beacon? Do you have any videos on trouble shooting the EEV’s. I have got a lot from the Sporlan videos but there are only 2 on there site. Well only 2 that I found. Was hoping you had something real world in the field troubleshooting the transducer the sensors and the valve. A lot to ask for I know but it sure would be great to see someone like you showing how you go about it in a box at a customer site. I appreciate you and what you do to better our trade and whatever you have to offer in the line specs or info in general pertaining to Sporlan EEV’s Thanks
I dont have any videos on the eev's but I would encourage you to look into the sporlan SMA-12 tester it can be used to test any stepper motor style eev.
Its ok to jump pipework over with 10psi in it. You can't really jump pipework at full ambient pressures and temps, especially not with a higher pressure refrigerant.
Well first make sure you are front seating the king valve which is on the outlet of the receiver. And what is your high side gauge doing while its pumping down?
Had a walk-in loose a complete charge because snow on the roof broke the liquid line. I called out my repair guy to repair the leak but he didn’t replace the drier. I notice you were concern about loosing the charge so you don’t have to replace the drier. Your thoughts on this ? Thanks.
Great video as always- are you worried about the tiny amount of air that was trapped in the new low pressure cap tube when you installed it? I know the system was under positive pressure but since there is no way to bleed refrigerant through the low pressure cap tube I can only assume a tiny amount of air was left in the tube and then mixed or pulled into the system during its next pump down. Thanks for the great content--
Finally, someone loosens the packing nut to operate! Five stars brother
Thanks bud
Its always scary to loosen the packing nut open, especially on old ones. They never turn back the same 😅
I didn’t know of loosening the nut on the king valve to protect the valve. Good stuff.
Awesome video! I was looking for this information all over on how to replace the mechanical pressure switch without having to lose pressure to avoid noncondensable entering the system. Thank you!
is the small amount of air in the pressure switch connecting tube negligible??? the system was venting during the quick connection but i am assuming air was not removed from the pressure switch tube.?? just wondering..
@@markhoffmann5941nobody really knows😂 last year I broke my vacuum pump I just purged everything for a whole year😂 all the units work fine🎉
Short cuts while using common senses equals win win for you and satisfied customer. Really enjoy your videos.
Thanks bud!
Pre-set Your Pressure control with Dry nitrogen down at the truck & your analog guages. saves a lot of time , rather than messing with it on the roof.
Can you create a video about this then ?
Explain with video, I don't understand
I would love to see how this is done
I like how you take the time to break down the details of your services you do. Thank you for sharing.
didnt know that about the packing nut, been in the trade almost 20 years, learn something new everyday.
This is great video showing real efficient way to change out the pressure control. I like the subtle detail about the 6psi left in the system to do quick change out of the flare fittings.
I appreciate your detail in the work you do, and in the description of what and why. Its refreshing. Great knowledge.
I always learn something new in your videos, even in the not too complicated calls. Thanks for the videos!
Definitely he has a gift systematizing & explaining.
Thanks Juan
I'm glad you.enjoy them tecnico!
me too
You're videos always get me out of a bind. Thanx from Vegas.
Thanks for watching!
I got a walk-in freezer compressor is running the fans on the evaporator are running it’s at 50° inside the cooler the low side feels warm high side feels warm I was wondering if you had any suggestions
Funny I did this last week as well same problem. This method is great way to do that and also replace a flared TXV🤓. Refrigerant is only a little bit of vapor escaping the system. Got to do it fast so no moisture or air gets in. Surprised the J/C control failed, usually it’s the cheap rancid or Danfoss ones. I enjoy your videos Chris!
It was actually was a ranco control personally I hate the ranco controls, but I decided to put the ranco back in because it fit perfectly. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
I can’t believe I haven’t subscribed to your channel sooner. Great Channel!!
Thanks !
Nice fix I like how you save time to and the trouble of changing the filter dryers out and vacuuming it
One of my favorite new channels..keep up the good work !
Thanks bud
Kickn -it-old school and keeping it real keep up the good work
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Great video. Thanks for helping a brother out!
Wealth of information here. As usual, very thorough and informative! Thank you sir.
Thanks for watching again!
Thanks for showing us your diagnosis bro
Love you're channel I'm new to the field about 2 months fresh out of technical schools keep the vids and information coming greatly appreciated
Just got into commercial. I appreciate your help! Thank you!
Thanks learn a lot from tour videos using just basic trouble shooting techniques
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Awesome video, man! Thanks so much for breaking the troubleshooting process in the beginning!!
Just read commerical refrigeration book by Dick Wirz about packing nut, great stuff, sir. the book also said to closed afterward after done repairs.
keep it up with awesome video, thank you Chris.
DeafHVACR SoCal what edition? I just bought the third edition and it’s been great so far. Haven’t finished it yet
@@squirtlehvac8962 second edition bpok
Chris tip of the week check you cut in and out of your low pressure switch. Good advices.
thanks for the good explanation I just started as an air conditioning mechanic so this video was very useful
You have excellent videos . Thanks . The pump down at 6 pasig is only vapor!
Awesome trick with the low pressure line swap wicked time saver
Thanks bud!
Again. Very Nice job. You are one of the Coldest Guy on YT.
thanks!
Great tip. Always look forward to your videos !
I'm a student , thank you so much for teaching us
I'm glad you enjoy my content, and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
I start pick up Restaurant work, Excellent presentation !
I wanted to thank you for those informative videos.
Awesome break down. Much appreciation brother, keep videos coming
A really good video on the pressure control switch. I liked the technique of keeping a positive pressure on the low side so that you keep air out of the system while installing the flare nut & cap tube assembly. I am assuming we would want a walk-in cooler pressure control to kick in at 40 degrees & cut off at 35 degrees, hence the 5 PSI differential.
eeh controlling temperature solely with a pressure switch? Sounds a bit wrong in my ears, because the pressure is deciding how much the cooler will cool (temperature difference), not the final temperature. The final temperature depends on many other factors, like how much heat energy the walk-in-cooler collects through the walls, how often the door is opened, and which is the sorrounding temperature outside of the walk-in-cooler (Which temperature it has to "work against"), as a refridgeant system moves a set amount of heat energy from one Place to Another.
Using system pressure for temperature Control sounds like it gonna lead to a walk-in-cooler that is "warm" on the summer and "freezing" on the Winter, as the adjacent temperature around the walk-in-cooler will be a tad lower on the Winter, transferring less heat energy through the walls and during door openings, and a tad warmer on the summer, transferring more heat energy through the walls and during door openings.
Or is a thermostat wired in series with that pressure switch doing a final temperature Control aswell?
@@sebastiannielsen I work at a hospital & our morgue operates on a pressure switch as well as several reach in case type beverage coolers in the cafeteria. I'm sure the design engineers of the equipment considered all the criteria you listed above. I have never observed any real temperature differences on the equipment in summer or winter. The pressure control eliminates the need of a t-stat so you will not find one on a pressure control piece of equipment. The pressure of the refrigerant & the PT relationship between them will regulate or control the temperature & they work quite well. Thermostats with a gas or liquid charged sensing bulb will operate with the same principle as the pressure control. Heat is always trying to get to a space that is lower in temperature so regardless, the pressure control will react with the changes & operate in accordance to the setpoint of the control, not some other final temperature. If the setpoint is 34 - 39 degrees the pressure control will maintain that setpoint just fine unless the controller goes bad or something else happens to the system.
Thanks so much for watching I am going live this evening 2/18/19 at 5PM (Pacific time) to discuss recent uploads and answer questions from the week. Come on over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/78KjceoUwlc/v-deo.html
this is what we call diagnostic .great video
Thanks
Hey man, keep up the good work. Love your videos because they are motivating and very educational for a younger tech like myself. Thank you!
Hello
I have a question
Suction line have high pressure over 250 psi with lower Freon. What is the problem with?
When bypassing low pressure control to force the unit to run in an emergency, make sure you also turn down the thermostat and check defrost controls so it doesn't close solenoid and run in vacuum while you picking up the part.
Great video! Thank you for your time.
I use your videos as teaching tools for my HVAC mechanics (I am a warehouse maintenance manager). Keep them coming!
On a side note, have you ever considered dabbling in industrial refrigeration, such as ammonia? The need for ammonia refrigeration is growing as a result of the Montreal Protocol, but the talent pool is quickly drying up.
Wow that cool that you use my videos, thanks! The talent pool has damn near dried up in my sector (restaurant refrigeration) too
I have a system that has one broken low preasure port, one at the evaperator (inaccessible) and one with the preasure switch on it. I guess I have to take the low preasure control off to charge it. Fun times. Why is all of the equipment on UA-cam so nice and the stuff I see is 15+ years old and trashed, lol.
Great video! Exellent presentacion ! Thank you for your time and knowledge
The small amount of air in the copper tube of the pressure controller getting in the system doesn't effect it?
That's a Badass tip ! Can't wait to try it out there
Always enjoy your vids on call going in now to a walkin condenser short cycling erratic according to mgr hop[e you do a vid on short cycling issues looking forward man 👍👍👍
Hello I am kinda a new to low temp, I built mobile walk-in freezers and every time I am going to start them up the compressor stalls and stops. I have to do it several times until is starts working, then after it works it does not do it again. I’ve replaced starting components, compressor, wires has a 75ft long cord and it is a 8 gauge wires. What I started doing is putting thermostat up to 100 so liquid line can pump it down and still doing the same. When the system was new it did no happened. Voltage always no less than 203-208 on ea h leg. What can be the problem and thank you for your videos we are in El Paso tx.
You are awesome and very good explaining
Thanks bud
Thank you for the great job you are doing sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching bud!
Thanks nice video and thanks for the explaination at the end. Well done
Are pressure control readings readily available?
Great job again like always
So you work on fyers and restaurant ovens? If so can you please make a video on them? I been watching all of your refrigeration videos and dude you are smart as hell. Imma about to start a job at Wendy's as a maintenance mechanic and I have to know how to fix coolers and ovens I hope you can give me some pointers, I'll even pay you for Paretron private sessions. I'll pay 100 sorry that's all I can afford.
Hope all is going well
Thank you for the informative video
Hi
Can you explain why my walk-in freezer kicks on and so many times during defrost cycles?
So when pressure control is open you get voltage and when is closed you get OL?
Yeah think of it as a light switch if you test power across a energized light switch that is shut off you will read 120 volts but if you test power across a light switch that is on you will read zero volts because electricity will always take the path of least resistance. Electricity does not want.to work hard!! :-) make sense?
HVACR VIDEOS thanks man, I’ve leaned a lot from your videos.
Thank you for your teaching God bless
Thanks for watching
I am going to go live on UA-cam tonight 11/5/18 at 5:00PM pacific time to discuss my most recent uploads and answer questions. Come on over and check it out
ua-cam.com/video/JHpAuTzzw6E/v-deo.html
1 N 2 are jumped together so shouldn’t you read 0v across 2-4 when in cooling cause it’s a closed set of contacts?
Hi. Very nice the ways you’re explains the job .
I am working on draft walking the draft beer do not get that cool the bartenders say at the outside door thermostat do not go below 40 always was at 38 . The compresor get so hot I have water hose run there and low the pressure to 55 Paige low succión line, and I have some bubbles in sight glass and yes temperature go down to 38 . But I don’t know what could be wrong? Thanks for you feedback
I had something similar happen on a Marvair unit today...had and intermittent low pressure lockout scenario due to a failing LP switch. Took a minute to catch the unit doing it though
Good catch!
Awesome video always learn something new after watching.
.
I have a question this is for a open air case 404a system. Condenser keeps going on and off check pressures ok. Could it be a bad sellenoid? It's a brand new condenser.
I have learned a lot from you .thanks for share your knowledge..
Thanks for watching!
Great video with great information! Thank you!
What about cut in and out for a 404a walk in cooler? 36 degree box temp? Still 5 psi and 30 ish?
Not sure off the top of my head for coolers but on freezers I usually set it it cut out at 1 psi and cut in at 20.
Taking a short cut was great. Checking the temp on either side of the dryer. Wouldnt it tell me first if the dryer is good. If not it would need replacing.
Are there some instances were you can replace a pressure switch without pumping system down.
Yeah if the system has valves that allow the pressure to be shut off for that particular switch and or if there is a Schrader valve below the control .
Awesome tip man can’t wait to try that , 👍🏻
The liquid receiver packing is there way to fix that or replace it ? If so can u send a link bc iv been told to use Teflon and dip it in nylog
well on some of the bigger receivers they may be re-buildable but not on this one.
The reason I asked I had work on a three phase compressor and I had my sniffer it was leaking from from the packing nut so I front seated removed the nut and the packing was no good anymore and then I called up a few places they told they don’t packing nuts so then I started search on UA-cam an hvac tech said to do it with Teflon so I was asking to see if that’s a good idea or should we replace the receiver bc since the Teflon been on it has not leaked since and ideas would be great just Incase I run into it again thanks in advance
Do you do any new box installs?
Another great video
Good idea saves time and the hassle of vacuuming nice
Awesome video!!!
Could you tell me how to wire the low pressure switch. Thanks
Good to test in-out. Good job.
Any tips on a rusted valve?
Which valve?
Like a rusted king valve.
Maybe some penetrating oil is all I can think of. Once they get real bad you need to replace them...
Just curious some jobs I’m in a pinch and they need the refrigeration on quickly.
IF YOU HAVE A SYSTEM THATS FLAT AND THE SYSTEM CONTINUES TO RUN. WOULD THAT ALSO INDOCATE A FAULTY PRESSURE CONTROL?
Do you have a video of your tools? I think it would be cool to see what your toolbag looks like to try and copy it.
Here you go bud ua-cam.com/video/WPQXALKTIdg/v-deo.html
What do you think about a little bit of air in the cap tube? Thanks
Refrigerant displaces oxygen, so typically when you “purge” the refrigerant will force out any unwanted air. Even when you install a capillary into a service valve the last step would be tighten the nut.
What's your opinion on teflon tape on the thread where you put the new flare nut.
I would never use teflon on a flare, only nylog or oil.
Ok, thanks for your reply.
Love your videos they have helped me great deal in Refrigeration.
I steeped into a service manager position about 8 months ago and I still watch your videos it’s more now to keep refreshed and to lead my techs in the right direction.
We had a call on Masterbilt rack on a freezer cooler combo that I reluctantly accepted the call for.
I knew that several companies had been out there working in this box over the last month so that’s what my reluctance was for.
Anyway we took the call.
It’s a Masterbilt 1.0 setup with Sporlan EEV’s. I know you have installed the Beacon controllers with the EEV’s. What kind of EEV are used with the Beacon? Do you have any videos on trouble shooting the EEV’s.
I have got a lot from the Sporlan videos but there are only 2 on there site. Well only 2 that I found. Was hoping you had something real world in the field troubleshooting the transducer the sensors and the valve.
A lot to ask for I know but it sure would be great to see someone like you showing how you go about it in a box at a customer site.
I appreciate you and what you do to better our trade and whatever you have to offer in the line specs or info in general pertaining to Sporlan EEV’s
Thanks
I dont have any videos on the eev's but I would encourage you to look into the sporlan SMA-12 tester it can be used to test any stepper motor style eev.
Thank you for this video
Another cool video...thanks
Why do you release pressure to 10 psi when changing the pressure control?
Its ok to jump pipework over with 10psi in it. You can't really jump pipework at full ambient pressures and temps, especially not with a higher pressure refrigerant.
no call
How many gas cylinders is use in charging air dryer
I have no idea
Great trick the compressor will hold the charge back to the receiver? Do you have a way to to do that with a fan control
Nope on a fan cycle control, and a high pressure control your stuck recovering.
great video what do u usually set the 22 system at cut in cut out
If it's a pump down circuit with a defrost clock i usually do co at 5 and cut in 25 ish
How do we check low pressure in air dryer.
"we need do good vacuum and use big hoses"
same person: we just can swap pressure control with air inside tube, no vacuum needed)))
I tried to pump down a unit at the reciever, why would my high pressure trip? It has a HPR valve.
Well first make sure you are front seating the king valve which is on the outlet of the receiver. And what is your high side gauge doing while its pumping down?
Had a walk-in loose a complete charge because snow on the roof broke the liquid line. I called out my repair guy to repair the leak but he didn’t replace the drier. I notice you were concern about loosing the charge so you don’t have to replace the drier. Your thoughts on this ? Thanks.
Yes if there was a loss of charge the drier needs to be replaced
Great video!
Do you know any books on walk in cooler and freezers.
Where can I find a job in the hvac field.
How do you know when you need to increase your differential? When it shortcycles?
Yes
what did you pinch it with
Just some lineman pliers!
You ever had to top off the refrigerant afterwards?
Not on something like this
Good job 👍 Great video
Pissed out - Common refer lingo 🤙
Great video as always- are you worried about the tiny amount of air that was trapped in the new low pressure cap tube when you installed it? I know the system was under positive pressure but since there is no way to bleed refrigerant through the low pressure cap tube I can only assume a tiny amount of air was left in the tube and then mixed or pulled into the system during its next pump down. Thanks for the great content--
You are correct and there is a tiny amount of air in there, it's not a great thing but not too concerning in my opinion.
@@HVACRVIDEOS thanks, I appreciate the response