Electronic Repair Time! ASHLY 3102 Stereo Equalizer
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Let's repair a stereo equalizer together! Lots of tech tips in this video to make your repair procedures easier.
To learn more about electronics in a very different and effective way, check out my Patreon page. Also, you gain access to my personal test equipment plans and inventions. Click here: / mrcarlsonslab
To learn more about electronics in a very different and effective way, check out my Patreon page. Also, you gain access to my personal test equipment plans and inventions. Click here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
Mr Carlson's Lab what’s your audio processing on the video intros with that gorgeous mic?
Mr Carlson's Lab
Would you be interested in a Crown D-150?
I'll give it to you if you pay shipping from Wa.
Was a great sounding/reliable amp until a rogue signal toasted one side. (and the driver)
Can't find original components. Might need masterful re-engineering. Kind of a collector item.
I'm only 3 minutes in but I recently repaired that exact EQ for my best friend.
Can't wait to see if it's the exact same failure.
Didn't see you go over the more stressed solder joints under magnification. The most common failure that I see with audio gear that's been "roaded". This was the problem that I discovered on the bottom board that caused the elusive intermittent signal loss.
@@unenslaver1333 I just serviced a Crown D-150 a short while ago for a customer, and it sounded quite nice. It definitely needed a good going over and freshening up, but once that was done, the owner was very happy to put it back into service in his studio. Have a great day.
One of my favorite EQ’s in the analog Audio days of the late 90’s-mid 2000’s.
Your commentary is very rich with so many little tips as well as the big picture of repair - excellent 👍
Mr Paul, your videos are always good, your troubleshooting is concise and your conclusions correct! Never any doubt and no fumbling! Good job and keep it up!👍🏻😊
That has to be one of the coolest little Scopes I've ever seen!
mrs. carlsons you are the gun .
This video has the best audio that I've heard from any UA-cam program.
But, from an audio engineers point of view, it has some issues that can be fixed easily. Lots of mouth clicks. However, it's very crispy and clear.
I presume that comes from understanding audio on a deep level, and also using a nice condenser mic doesn't hurt.
Tinkerer How would you fix mouth clicks?
@@Tokaisho1 Turn down the gain.
@@Tokaisho1 multiband compressor or dynamic EQ.
Thanks as always Paul!
Alex.
This is absolutely amazing. I wanted to be an electronics tech since I before I left my crib as a very small child. I got my wish to work in a tv repair shop when I was 18, in 2001. Your method of explaining things is so simple to understand and follow, I can't say that enough. Even a video that might on the surface seem basic and possibly not interesting, always leads me down an amazing path of learning more than I ever thought. I'm constantly trying to learn more!
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH, WHAT TIMING I HAVE AN ASHLY 2 X 31 STAGE EQ AT SOMEONE'S PLACE WAITING FOR REPAIR, BUGGER THAT, WILL GO GET IT AND HOPEFULLY FIX IT MYSELF, FUNNY IT HAS EXACTLY THE SAME FAULT AS THAT IN YOUR VIDEO.
One of the most valuable and interesting channels I've found on UA-cam.
I bought several electronics books and one of those "101 electronic projects" kits years ago. They've been gathering dust on my shelves ever since. I've finally started using them, actually learning and doing. Thanks, Mr. Carlson!
Another home run, well done! Thanks
very nice video.thenks for this video.more like this
Hey Paul, I have a minimoog that has two oscillators not working... are you interested in fixing it and doing a video? (I'll pay for the repair, of course.)
I'd second that request, would be interesting piece of kit I think.
Seeing the three unused bridging pads across the in/out board perforations and the silkscreened model number with "ONLY" makes me think that there's a higher spec variant of this equalizer with independent channel power supplies.
No. Ashly markets a single channel version of this eq. 3102 is a 31 band 2 channel and 3101 is a 31 band 1 channel. Not much room to upgrade this eq since it's one of the best you can buy.
I wish I had a TEACHER like YOU! The university was useless compare to your content.
very informative, thanks 👍
I love seeing that adorable little Tek 224 scope back and being used like it was always meant to be! That tiny little CRT is just so dang cute! Love your videos, keep up the great work. Hope to see that itty-bitty scope again in the future :3
Impressed with how many "teaching moments" you found in this simple repair.
Good video!
That scope is just the cutest little thing!
I was thinking the exact same thing!! :-)
There is a video where he refurbishes it.
Haha, I said the exact same thing out loud when it showed up on the screen.
the nicer models included 10 ohm resistors on the + and - 15 volt rails just checking for open resistors was a good clue
A technician that keeps the settings of analog audio gear? Sir, you are the most considerate nerd on earth.
.. Самый древний, хочешь сказать..?..)))
Oh my god that tiny baby oscilloscope, I want one
Hello Paul, first, thank you for your videos! I Really enjoy watching them. I Have a question. Are you a professional repairman? With other words, is it how you make a living? Or is it a hobby? Just like I do? As a child, I always dreamed about a career as a repairman on domestic audio and video gear. Unfortunately, the domestic products like audio and video are not as they were in the 80's and 90's. Today it's like: "Not working any more? Buy something new". When I was 12 years old, I discovered pirate radio stations. I Got in touch with that guys and they gave me some basic transmitter circuits. It was so hard to build it and get it working, but after all, lot's of books about electronics and "trail and error", I got it working. And now, 22 years have passed. I Do realise that it was INSANE to start as an electronics newbie back then, working on HF circuits. But I've learned it, the hard way. But that's fine. Now I'm looking in thrift stores for all kind of electronics that are low priced because it's not working. Mainly amplifiers from the golden age of quality (early 1980's) and tuners. Most of the time, I don't sell it but keep it after repair. But for a couple of years, more and more people are asking me if I can repair something. I Did repairs on FM transmitters, tuners, amplifiers, cassette decks, tape recorders, power supply's, complete revision of iconic turntables, European tube radio's and so on. Long story Paul, excuse me. But I enjoy troubleshooting, repairing and design electronics! Do you think that there's still a way to make a living out of it? Or is it something from the past? My job is not bad, I'm a so called "hotel technician" in a huge hotel in the Netherlands. I Have great colleagues and a lot of freedom, the salary is not bad, but sometimes, I get bored about the lack of challenge. Something that I can find in all that repair work what I do for free as a hobby right now. How do you think about that in a world were everything is made to be wasted instead of repaired? Go on with your videos Paul! Thanks for that!
I imagine that having an old stereo device to fix, where one channel is working and the other isn’t, is an absolute joy! That was the case with my old stereo valve amp, where I was able to quickly compare measurements and signals between the working channel and the broken channel. Having said that I haven’t finished watching the video yet, so this might not be the case on this repair. Anyway, keep up the great work Mr. Carlson, these videos are excellent.
Can't fault this channel, never understand the thumbs down. Good job as always.
Thumbs down, comes from the ones who sell new stuff that's not meant to be repaired. 😉
Thumbs down are from dyslexic people who slip up when selecting the "thumb". ;)
Well sometimes it can get a little droaning when he describes the most simple things like how he's going to take out screws or turn the unit around. I think if he left out such simple things, more people would watch. That is my opinion anyway. Generally when I see someone working on something and the next frame it's disassembled it is usually common sense to determine that he removed a screw and in doing so, turned the unit around. I think people dislike things like that.
This is my GO TO EQ for live sound. Always. Glad to see someone repairing them. They’re incredibly clean and durable. They weren’t too cheap in their day either.
Yeah these and the old Klark Tekniks were the best analog GEQs out there.
Good stuff. Glad it was an easy fix. The owner will be delighted.
I have a similar looking unit by BSS. Perhaps a little older than 1995.
My main FOH Graphic.
Never had call to get the back off so I don't know how different it is inside.
@@KozmykJ time to verify and change capacitor. they're more than 20 years old. before they leak service it. it will deserve :)
@@riccardoz2953 Oh don't !! I have racks and racks of stuff that are over 20 years old ... 🤯
8:42 it's not "a Japanese Philips" it's JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards). You'd think a guy that gets his panties twisted over the proper pronunciation of "solder" would know that.
Excellent video. I could not think of anything to improve upon. Absolutely flawless. I wish I had a shop like yours and the mental discipline to have all of your superior knowledge. Very enjoyable. Some of the audio purists might say the "flavor" of such a high-end piece of audio gear could be adversely affected. Do you feel that the Motorola opamp is enough to satisfy those types of critics? Thank you.
Dear Mr.Carlson's, much explanation and repair development, very grateful for your classes!
Out of interest, why did you not change the OP Amp in the good channel also so that both channels match?.
Was thinking that also, wouldn't the op-amp tonal signature differ now from channel 1 & 2?
Good point.
Same thoughts here.
He should absolutely match the opamps. Some can have extremely different characteristics & sounds. Then again some are similar, but its few that are similar. Best to plug in some test sounds(music) after the pure tone. If some1 is set on using a signal generator, then at least sweep through the range with various wave types.... What if a 15khz opamp was burnt too ??
It depends on the application. If this was used for GEQ on 2 stage monitor channels then it doesn't matter if they match. If its used on the main LR channels, then yeah, gain matching and sonic signature matching is a bit more important. But, the next time you're listening to a band in your favorite bar, close your eyes and listen. Could you hear any difference between the two channels in your local watering hole's analog PA if you tried?
That is one sweet looking and functioning piece of gear. As always Mr. Carlson, you've brought this audiophile's day a bit more enjoyment. I build graphic workstation computers as an avocation so I work with modular components basically pasting them together, not so much the skill and knowledge you possess, but I always learn something from your videos. I've said it before in the most complimentary of terms: you sir are truly "King of the Nerds". :-)
Fantastic, educational, hope you can continue long, long time ahead. Thank you for your efforts. JK.
Thank You Mr. Carlson for this delightful contribution.
This was a quite quick fix- when I look towards the Vedolizer where You took perfection to the next level, in my humble opinion.
If You weren't overseas I would have asked to visit You years ago with my jaw dropped to the floor over Your place.
In Germany we call someone like You "Pfundskerl". Hard to translate but means like five star best buddy.
I learned so much about the things I like from You that I hope the world won't go south while we're still alive so I always could reach out to You just to say what I think what great guy You are.
Hello mr. Carlson. Glad to see another video from you. :} Respect :)
I've had more trouble with JRC chips than any other brand. A lot of faulty ones are starting to show up in older gear now and mostly they are op-amps.
Interesting. Thank You for sharing that.
Good to know. I didn't know op amps could fry like that.
@@InXLsisDeo Well there are no protection components on the input that I can see, false economy for sure.
Ahh Mr Carlson! I used to own one of these and an Ashly ftx-2001 series 3 - nicest sounding solid state amp I've heard to this day! Love Ashly gear!
Brian Proulx Yes. I think for the money you can’t find a better sounding EQ. I’ve got six of them in my rack. Three per side. Never had an issue with any of them and I’ve been using them sense 1998. I’m still one of a few in front of house that has refused to go all digital so far in my area. I’m holding onto analog kicking and screaming.
My 2000 Camaro won't start. I bet it's the op amp. Gonna go check right now. Thanks, Mr. Carlson!
I’m almost good enough to feel confident to build all your modified test equipment I’m getting there soon. I’ve learned more watching these videos of hands on how to repair than three semesters of college level Electronics class.
You got that right. School always has dumb projects and the monotone teaching is hard to soak in.
Very much agreed, I've completed two years as an electronics technologist and their teaching methods are nothing compared to Carlson's.
@Etienne Everyone I knew that took elecktronicks in the military when they got out they couldn't apply it. That or they just really didn't learn anything. Not talking about you but just how about people I know personally I went to school with in high school and they went in the military and came out and ended up being ironworkers and window glazer's.
To be fair, Paul Carlson drops practical knowledge in his videos that you'll never learn in any class. However classroom teaches you the theory which is important too, so they are complementary.
Very interesting repair! Ironically, I drove by the Ashly factory just a few hours ago!
Wow, that screen saving mode on that RCA oscilloscope (curve tracer) just killed me. I absolutely love it. Keep up the good work. Cheers :)
I really love the troubleshooting. My line is computer software, and circuit troubleshooting and code debugging are essentially "twins, separated-at-birth." Very enjoyable!!
Now *that's* an equalizer!
Kowboy USA it is ! People don't use equilizers anymore in their audio, don't know why.
@@antraciet Most just use the equalizers in the DAW these days, or channel strips.
hey look! pro audio that isn't an I-pad. very good.
thank-you Mr. Carlson. I am encouraged to use my skill more often. the mind is a terrible thing to waist I'm grateful for your videos.
I notice you have a Sony-Tektronix (or was it Tektronix-Sony ?) miniature scope model 224.. Does it have battery pack still O.K.? We used to have one for our field service trips, but we did not bother to replace the (expensive) battery pack when it “retired”.
Another little thing - the semiconductor manufacturers don’t generally ever bother to reveal their input protection components. It is possibly described in an application note. Anyway,, it looks to me that the protection diode(s) may be what turned to leaky one(s). Of course that does really not matter - the IC is zapped and does not work. But the zapping mechanism could be a little different, so the future precautions might also be presented with a different emphasis.
A video was made by Mr. Carlsson of this exact item some time back. Search for it.
Amazing video! I have massive respect for you for the beginning comment on documenting the EQ settings. Hats off to you!
Earth, Ground, Wind and (hopefully not) fire. Think positive.
At 8:40, *one of* the "alternate" type of Philip's screw and driver are known as JIS, Japanese Industrial Standard. Owners of Japanese Motorcycles have sometimes found out about this the hard way, stripping out the carburetor screws on their Honda bikes. Note that JIS screws often ---- but not always ---- will have a little round divot or hole in the head of the screw (rather less likely if it is a countersinking screw). The "other" kind of Phillip's screw is a "Posidrive" screw and screwdriver, which have 4 additional small notches in between the main notches or vanes on the screwhead, and four additional smaller ribs on the screwdriver tip. These are NOT the same as Philip's screws, and prone to stripped out heads if the screws are really tight and you try to remove them with an ordinary Philip's screwdriver. Learn to recognize them! They are very common in European-made audio and electronic equipment and furniture (including B&O electronics and especially the speakers, and IKEA furniture).
Sounds so much like the problems from years ago when "Reed & Prince" were used. They were very similar to #1 and #2 Phillips so much so we would strip the heads of screws, too.
By the looks of the screws they only connected hot(+) and cold(-) which is a very bad idea and can easily damage the inputs.
My guess is that they fed an unbalanced signal and wired it incorrectly. Unbalanced signal should always be fed to hot(+) and signal ground but you also have to ground the unused cold(-) like shown in the video.
PS : would have been nice if you used a balanced input for extra testing. Depending on how the input stage is build you might sometimes see a signal with a 6dB drop compared to the other channel. I think it's also a must for final testing to feed a balanced signal.
Where were you 34 years ago? I know, this was just invented. (YT). You are so, to the point, Paul. :-)
I agree! Wish I could have seen videos like this in my early days as a radio technician in the Forces!
Don't forget the Phillips vs Pozidrive screw heads.. too many bits have died because of those two types...
I used to destroy Philip bits on square drives, until a co-worker of mine shined some light on the subject.
I've used these EQ's a lot doing live sound. Used to be the go to EQ before digital took over.
08:50 that would be "philips" and "pozi drive" then 🙂
9:07 boy, would have been nice to know which Phillips you used right there.
I guess was obvious. On the back side of the unit, it says Made in USA, Rochester, NY.
Ha Ha...there actually is a difference between the Japanese Phillips screws and US.
At 8:58 he says "American Phillips" as he shows you the screwdriver he's using.
Nice video as always. What if, say, someone would have an interesting piece of an old radio reciever laying around.. Would you accept it as a donation/gift? I have some old transistor radios that were made in the former soviet union. Would that be something that you would like to tear down or repair, perhaps?
there is 2 types of phillips drivers ?? I nearly dropped my dinner when I heard that.
Hands down the essence of what an absolutely ideal educational channel would be. I had no idea all those retro-looking devices can be restored and calibrated to be as good or better as more modern devices.
Also, we have a saying - 'tell a shoemaker by a toe sticking out his boot' - definitely not the case on Mr. Carlson's -I love his warm, pleasant tone and cadence.
Thank you Mr Carlson and thanks to all you good people in the comments for being good sports on every posted video.
One of the first things I did when we bought these units was to change out the XLRs for brand new gold plated jacks as we kept them functional for any type of use in the field in our portable rental inventory and even for rack mounting.
The most common issue with these units is a very simple fix. The PC trace lands surrounding the screw terminals very frequently fractures and simply reheating the terminal block contact and the PC trace land will solve the issue. This is why the repair guys in our industry HATE direct contact to the PCB from all outside world connections. We will frequently cut the terminal block contacts and insert a short piece of insulated wire from the PCB to the terminal block to act as a shock absorber.
Mr Carlson -- that bubble wrap at 24:50 -- isn't that the anti-static conductive stuff? Just mentioning because I've been bitten by accidentally using plastics and foams that turn out to be conductive... often you have it lying around from parts orders and you grab it for some kind of padding or protection thinking it's not conductive, and it causes the most baffling issues until you realize what's happening. :-)
Excellent video !! Very good explanations !!! A++++++++++++++
I don’t know why, but I actually understood your repair of this EQ - you made it so simple
Unit is clean considering it is 24 years old. Ashly still makes this unit and it sells for about 375 bucks...
it is well designed, working and easily mainteined as shown in this video. Nasa is using russian rockets to send supplies to the ISS. and those rockets engine were designed 20 or more years ago. if a thing works and do its job, why u have to trash it? did u notice all those resistor blue body = it means they have really low tolerance = more accurate. dunno in america, in europe u can buy an equalizer cheap at like 150 euros = around 200 dollars. but are crappy, made in china with poor components and for sure not jlc or motorola op amp.
A friend of mine had one (cant say the manufacturer or model name to avoid sue) i opened it and it had all op amp china made really really cheap. the rest of the parts were decent. just swapped the op amp with motorola.. the SOUND CHANGED way less hum, and less distortions when using on extreeme settings ( like + 6 db). fixed some soldering point. changed a couple of wires and boom. way more better than before
I've been a hardware engineer (digital realm) for more than 30 years and greatly admire your knowledge and approach to debugging problems.
I would have been thrilled to have had access to a resource like UA-cam and your channel as a young man when I was teaching myself electronics.
I just want to take a moment to thank you for doing a video about audio equipment and not having horrible audio on the video. I can't understand why so many people do that.
Mind. Blown. And enlightened. Thank you, Mr Carlson.
You're welcome Russ!
Mr. Carlson, what's the mic used for the video, and how many other microphones do you have in your collection - maybe microphone repair video one day. I wouldn't dare, but you with your lab and knowledge might show others how they're build and maintained.
Thanks for your input!
Another tip re: sockets and thin nuts: Some sockets (and nut drivers and box wrenches) have excessive chamfers - so much so that the contact on the thin nuts used on connectors is tenuous at best. Sand, grind or file the end of the socket or nut driver (or side of the box wrench) to minimize the chamfer to protect the nut. You only need a trivial chamfer, really, as it is only an aid to orienting the socket or wrench to the nut. The other benefit on wrenches is that thinner ones get into cramped spaces more easily. Granted, this may remove chrome plating, but you can replace that by electroplating.
Dead Freight West, I have a set of deep sockets that I have modified with "stops" epoxied in place a little less than a quarter inch from the front of the socket. The socket will hold the nut in place and prevent it from angling or sliding deeper towards the rear of the socket. Handy for reinstalling nuts without having to start them on the potentiometer shaft by hand (nor having to start the nut with needlenose pliers if the control is recessed through a tunnel are hole in the face plate of the device). Just glue a same size nut into the socket with JB weld and then drill out the center of the nut somewhat with a Unibit after the epoxy has completely cured; the larger hole in the backstop might be necessary if the nut has to thread into an extra long shaft.
Great stuff Paul. I always appreciate the great content from you, I learn more every day. Also your Patreon page is really taking off, awesome!
So, probably after this video, all such oscilloscopes will cost $ 55)
@@Runco990 Ham radio swap meets. You'll usually find a ton of boatanchors there and the sellers are generally happy to get rid of them for whatever is offered, especially at the end of the day -- they don't want to lug them back home.
@@Runco990 Agreed. His $5 finds are unseen were I live. In fact, I never see any elec device for under $50 or so, much less $5. As for swap meets (seen below) the sellers aren't even going to haul them out and sell them for $5. That's unrealistic indeed. [shit the knobs and hardware are worth more than $5]
@@James_Bowie As for swap meets (seen below) the sellers aren't even going to haul them out and sell them for $5. That's unrealistic indeed. [shit the knobs and hardware are worth more than $5] Get real.
FYI, Paul, the other type of "cross-point" screwdriver is called a "REED AND PRINCE" The "Phillips" and "Reed and Prince" are both cross-points. The Phillips has rounded edges and a rounded point whereas the R and P has sharper edges and point. They both have more than one size but each shape remains the same. EX: #1, $2, #3 and #4. Then of course you have the Jeweler's sizes which are tiny. Even so the shapes still remain either Phillips or Reed & Prince. BTW, your trouble shooting ability amazes me.
Or in the rest of the world Phillips and Pozi.
JIS is another way of describing it, Japanese Industrial Standard, honda motorsports uses this kind
I wish i had you as a teacher, back when i was an apprentice. Your Videos are really awesome and informative!
I don't know if a compulsory recap is a good idea. I'll only replace caps that have obvious issues (are bulging, or have leakage or low capacitance).
This episode is *GREAT* for me since I own an Ashley 15-band EQ !!
There's no "e" in there ;)
Not sure of the price of a Motorola Op-Amp, but I would have replaced the one on the top board with the same just to keep them in sync. :) Weird side-note - at about 29:30, Paul's voice woke up Siri on my iPhone! Ha! :D Thanks for another informative video!
Andrew Jones There’s no need to when a component doesn’t leave a signature in the signal.
Looks a much neater design than the ADC!
Some years ago I had to repair a Soundcraft mixer console... taking photos was important to have all of the knobs back in their right places too, just as well as a couple similar wire looms.
The console had to be entirely torn down to access the faulty parts. I installed an upgraded power supply at the same time, but the original problem was DC on all outputs. It had 3 busted op amps, all of them SMD.
I was in a bit of hurry and only managed to acquire through-the-hole models of the part, and one of them was a FET version. I also got sockets for them so later repair would be easier if ever needed. I put the BJT versions into the recording/monitor outputs and the FET one into the headphone output. I took pieces of old IDE ribbon cable that I could solder onto sockets and onto the SMD pads, made it as short as possible to still be manageable. Luckily there was just enough space between the slide potentiometers and the top cover.
Everything worked right off, although the owner, a half deaf guy, was first concerned that one part being different would affect the sound. Had to explain to him that it is exactly why I put it in the headphone output.
Later on the console has changed owners at least twice and nobody has had any complaints that I know of. One of my more successful repairs. 😁
Mr. Carlson, are you taking on any projects at the moment? I have a Heathkit SB-102 w/ the power supply that needs to be refirbished/restored. I'lll gladly pay for shipping, materials costs, and your time. Thank you, Darren
I don't like OPAMP's I like JEFET's . Nice Tek 224 Sweet ! Curve tracer nice as well, I recall that build.
Do you mean JFETs? As in JFET-input opamps like the TL072?
Very good 👍
These are nice to work on. Most everything is with plugs and sockets for easy access. Unfortunately sometimes in rough handling, something comes loose.
If you work on mixing boards, some manufactures have the drawings in the manual which show the faceplate without any knobs or slider positions. This can be used to note all the starting knob and switch positions to return with the unit to the customer. A nice touch is to provide a second blank copy so the customer can make his own notes for a venue.
There are more than 2 types of "Philips" screwdrivers. Philips is actually one of them. The other is not Philips. It is a JIS or Japanese Industrial Screwdriver. The differences are the Philips is designed to limit torque by Cam forces lifting the driver from the slot. This bit will not insert all the way into a straight side slot of a JIS screw, which is designed to not cam out of the slot. The American version of the JIS is the PosiDrive used for drywall screws and other applications requiring high drive force. The other common "Philips type is the cross point screwdriver which is based off the JIS screwdriver for small precision screws such as the screws in a laptop. Those are also NOT Philips screws. See your tool supplier for all versions of cross pointed screw drivers to have the correct tool for the job. To add to the mix is a hybrid flat and JIS screwdriver simply called a Terminal screwdriver for electricians. Commonly used for breakers, relays, and other electrical power applications. If you see a screw with the slot looking like a hybrid of a flat blade mixes with a Philips, you are looking at a terminal screw. They come in two sizes.
Isetech, those "terminal" screws seen in electrical busses and such work rather poorly as a Philip's screw and seem to be designed to work *best* with a square-drive, Canadian-designed Robertson screwdriver. I quite like Robertson screws! . They're often used for fastening deck planks.
@@goodun2974 True where the terminal also accepts a square drive, it is known as a The Phillips/square screw drive, also known as the Quadrex, Pozisquare screw drive, is a combination of the Phillips and Robertson screw drives. Not all terminal screws will accept the Robertson square drives. I didn't list the Robertson screw with the Philips type screws.
I get amazed every time i watch his videos... I would love to start doing what he does.. Excellent work Mr Carlson!!! 😃👍👌
I know very little about electronics, except what parts are. This is the third video I've watched and you make it very easy to follow.. Great videos!!
"For all I know the power transformer could be a charcoal briquette" Haha, I like that one. You never know what you might find when you open up someone else's equipment
Thank You, Mr. Carlson. You have provided us with a BOATLOAD of understandable troubleshooting information. I am now beginning to understand. I have to get past the animosity of components. An Op amp is an Op amp. I think once I get familiar with the (common) components (IC's), the view will become clearer. You are definitely helping to clear the "fog". I love 555's. ;-)
Great instruction! However, when you used the curve tracer I was surprised when you probed the two inputs at about 30:23 by probing from pin 8 (+ supply) to pins 2 and then 3? It seems more intuitive to probe between the negative (ground) connection (ping 4) and the two inputs.
Thanks Paul. This was a great info-packed video from someone who knows the subject inside out. I am learning so much so fast watching your videos - and I thought I was up to speed - nope, not yet! That will change for the better as I take in more of your expertise. Very impressed with the build quality and spacious logical layout of that equaliser - makes troubleshooting a breeze, much easier than struggling with SMD’s and failing eyesight. Looking forward to your next masterclass.
Ashly is a company just up the road from me in Webster NY......very good equipment, and I use one of their power amps
Great Video Mr. Carlson.. I'm Mike in Jacksonville. Watch ALL your videos WOW!! I really wish I could plug into your head, lol
Great video Mr. Carlson! I especially like the repair videos because I learn more when seeing a practical application. I wonder what this guy did to fry the input? hopefully he won't do it again!
Another excellent video. I like that you used the Tectronix 224 scope you did a battery replacement video on. I have to ask, what microphone are you using, your audio is exceptional in all your videos.
Don't know what they're worth?, but why not change BOTH channels to Motorola devices in that position, especially since they're in sockets.
Have a cpl of those in my pa rack....
Nice work as usual Paul...good to see you again, keep em coming
Jeff de WD8JM
Unbelievable ... You are very good and your speech is so clear and makes the listener so understanding
I hope everything’s going well up there Mr. Carlson 73 KC2MMA
Great video as always. I assume when you say “zapped” you likely meant maybe a static electricity charge hit the input pins?
Man what a useful tool, I just spent 5 hours trying to diagnose a fault with an oscilloscope, turned out to be a op-amp, this would have made my job so much easier
As soon as I saw all of those op-amps I started imagining how many pedals I can make out of components pulled from one of these. You know us too well.
Hey Paul, Well done - as always!!!! But one stupid question: This pink-ish bubble foil that you used to wrap those connectors, isn't that stuff made to protect ESD devices and therefore conductive? I might be wrong, but that is what I thought... Cheers!!!