Full Overview for LuckyBike Ratchet Strap Motorcycle & ATV Tie Down
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- Опубліковано 30 бер 2014
- Easy, Quick and secure way to Transport your Motorcycle, ATV or Power sport Toy. See the Quick Install Video here: • Quick Install using Lu...
Find the Product on our Website www.LuckyBike.com - Авто та транспорт
That seems like a lot of pressure on the forks.
Thank you for your comment, that is a very good observation. I agree that we strapped it down too tight in our video, you do not need to clamp it down as aggressively as we did here. I think we got too excited when making the video. I will add a note to the video to advise people of this. The bike we used was not damaged as we didn't bottom out the forks.
In summary, you should never bottom out the forks and should compress it about 1/2 to 2/3 of the fork travel. (With the bike stationary and no rider) Ensure the motorcycle is stable and won't bounce up and down on the front end.
do you need a chock to haul a cruiser , rather than the crotch,rocket,
It depends on your trailer, if you have a rail to stop the front wheel, like in our video, then you don't really need a chock.
Yep
The bike ain't going anywhere. The trailer though... That's another story lol
These motorcycle straps were awesome they had me feeling like I really know what I was doing and my bike was really secure thank you
draininhere That is great news, we love to hear from our customers on how they use the product! Glad to hear you like them!
Very ingenious design, love it.
I Towed my Harley with the exact trailer..had some issued with friction cutting through straps..plus I would have purchased a front tire chalk stand..or made something.. Straps suck need more than hook..if Nike bounces hook comes off. I finally had to put large crate next to front of bike to keep it stable.. Safety is important... Other people share the road.
Very good video, good quality as well. But to everyone reading this, don't use that much pressure when strapping the bike down, too much pressure on the forks can bust them, it also helps the the bike during the drive if the suspension can take some of the load while on the trailer. -Just a tip
Not hating on the guy in the video, i'm sure he knows what he is doing, and has done this plenty of times. He probably just got caught up making the video
-- Thanks for the input and you are completely correct on all points. We had already addressed this in the video by adding a note at 6m28s. ua-cam.com/video/l4Oxd3mWdik/v-deo.htmlm28s
+-Project Xfire- Thanks for the tip about the forks. I'm gonna buy these straps asap.
If you don't mind, what size trailer is that? I link to that trailer would be nice too.
I would love to have a pair of these straps
what size trailer is that, i have a zx 14 stretch 6 inches and trying to figure out what size i need?
I have a question for u? I just bought a 5X8 trailer like that from Lowes to transport my Roadking special and I want to slap a piece of 1/2 inch plywood in it to fit flush to the floor, do I need to bolt the plywood to the mesh floor? or will the weight of the motorcycle hold the plywood down w/o bolting it to the floor? Please get back to me. Thanks.
I'm assuming this same method would be applicable to other bikes, including cruisers with a variety of handlebar types?
That is correct, works the same on all bikes. If you have huge ape-hangers then please consider the extra leverage that will exert on your bars, but other then very extreme cases, it's really straight forward.
i havea canyon dancers wich is esentialy the samething has the gray cuffs. just sucks my grips and controls deeper on to the bars. also wore my grips smooth in 300 miles of trailering .
We make our support straps with high strength fabric, this is soft and flexible to ensure it doesn't damage your grips or bar-ends like other rigid systems may.
mine are indeed 100% fabric and look nearly identical to yours.
What size trailer is that
Hello, I'm new to this but can I use this system to transport multiple motor bikes on a flat bed car trailer. Thanks
I don't see why not, as long as you have place to anchor both sides of the strap. You would need one strap for each bike.
Great way to blow your fork seals whaling on the tightness like this dude did.
Even if you do bottom out the forks, it will not cause damage unless the seals are bad or improperly installed to begin with, you are not going to bend the fork tubes like this... You would have to exert extreme blunt force or extreme compression force, enough to actually bend the fork leg/tube. The forces required to do this are well in excess of what is in this video.
Think about coming down hard from a wheelie or hitting a pothole. This frequently bottoms out the forks completely and results in far greater forces on the suspension than what is in this video. While not recommended, forks are designed to handle bottoming out, most have a rubber stopper in there at the bottoming out point to prevent metal on metal contact.
Could I possibly use a blanket or a microfiber towel and then throw a strap over the seat?
Yeah I meant that in addition to the straps in the video
I like 'em.
You only use that ? Ever any issues? That’s great. What about rear kicking out or bike rolling?
that strap kit is all you need? nothing on the back?
***** We have used only the front strap on lots of short trips. If you are taking an extended trip or if you are going over very bumpy terrain then we do recommend our rear strap in addition to the front. We have a combo-kit available here:
www.luckybike.com/tools-tie-down-combo-kit-cam-buckle-lb-handlebar-tie-down-ratchet-lb-tire-tie-down
Or sold separately here:
www.luckybike.com/tools-lb-tire-tie-down-ratchet-strap-assembly-break-strength-2-500-lbs-working-load-limit-833-lbs-black
With my old arse and brain have ADD...does the Combo Set come with Good EZ Reading Directions, for folks like me? :)
Does the strap touch the paint on the tank?
It is designed no to touch any of the bodywork. Some aftermarket handlebars can cause issues, but this is rare, only the most extreme handlebar modifications direct the strap towards the bodywork. Standard applications work just fine without contact.
Awesome! Ordered!
I want those strap where can i order
Hello Gollden,
Thank you for your interest, the Tie Down Straps can be purchased through our website by using the link below.
www.luckybike.com/motorcycle-tie-down-ratchet-cargo-strap-transport/tie-down-ratchet-straps
What specific Ninja is that bike? Year/Model ?
I have Volusia 800 ,with a plain 5 by 8 trailer ,do I need to put 2 straps on the front forks ,then 1 across the seat,?,,,what about the back forks?
I'm sold.. I just order a set
nice ninja too
co za muza !!!!
How to snap your kick stand 101
That bird has a lot to say
all i can hear is that bird chirping
Wait, but didn’t even say, “That’s not going anywhere” as you tug on the strap. I wouldn’t trust it.
Compressed the forks faaaaaaarr too much!!
True! rule @ 1 not to compress the suspension so much otherwise they will burst!
Guys, the video mentioned to avoid clamping down too tight.
But even if you do bottom out the forks, it will not cause damage unless the seals are bad or improperly installed to begin with, you are not going to bend the fork tubes like this... You would have to exert extreme blunt force or extreme compression force, enough to actually bend the fork leg/tube. The forces required to do this are well in excess of what is in this video.
Think about coming down hard from a wheelie or hitting a pothole. This frequently bottoms out the forks completely and results in far greater forces on the suspension than what is in this video. While not recommended, forks are designed to handle bottoming out, most have a rubber stopper in there at the bottoming out point to prevent metal on metal contact.
There is no large amount of Oil Pressure inside of the forks, this is not how these forks function.
It is a common misconception that the "Oil is Compressed" when the "Forks are Compressed" and that it is this "Compression of Oil" that rebounds (bounces) the forks back up.
This is not how most suspensions function - the oil is not under high internal pressure during compression, the springs take this energy.
General Fork Overview:
Spring:
The springs inside the forks compress and cause rebound, it is the spring that takes most of the comprehensive energy and releases that energy as rebound.
Oil:
The Oil simply controls how fast the spring compresses and rebounds. This is done by forcing the Oil through compression/rebound valves.
Valve:
This valve controls how much oil can push through at any one time and thereby dampens the amount of compression/rebound. The size of the valve controls the amount of damping and how hard/soft the damping is.
(Important take-away: The spring stores the comprehensive energy, not the Oil)
Oil cannot be compressed, the volume and displacement of the Oil stays the same throughout the Compression and Rebound strokes. Being non-compressible means that Oil cannot build up a lot of energy during compression to release on rebound, actually, the suspension would simply get hard as a rock if it worked that way. But that is not the oils purpose or how it works, that is the springs purpose and springs have a nice bounce to them, just like our suspensions do. The job of the oil is primarily to control the springs energy and control the rate/speed of compression/rebound.
So when you compress the forks all the way, you will find that the oil is pushed through the valve and simply ends up on the other side of the valve. The oil is not under pressure when the forks are resting or moving slowly, even when compressed.
The Oil can be under pressure in certain situations. Primarily when the forks are compressed/rebounded very rapidly and forcefully. (Like hitting a pot-hole) But even there they would have to be compressed so rapidly that the oil cannot pass through the valve quickly enough compared to the force of the impact.
This is not the case in our example, the forks are compressed slowly and left in a stationary position. In our scenario there is no excessive oil pressure, the oil simply flows through the valve to the other side and sits there.
You can also conclude with this that Fork Seals do not simply get "Blown Out". You will find that the primary cause of leaky seals is degradation of the rubber o-ring, metal scarring that damages the o-ring and improper installation.
I hope that makes sense!
Kai
Hey Kai, I appreciate your detailed explanation of how front suspension works. Like them, I was worried about compressing the front forks too much and potentially blowing the seals but after a bit of research and now reading your comment, I can have peace of mind about strapping down the bike for the long haul next weekend.
Thanks,
CB
Seems like this is not great for the suspension.
It won't hurt them, you'd have to bottom them out and then exert enough force to bend the tubes. Not an easy task as the cylinders are very strong against comprehensive forces.
As far as the Oil inside and the Fork Seals, Oil Pressure is not built up inside the fork by this. The Oil flows freely through the valve from one chamber to the other.
holy shit bro. ease up on the pressure. those poor forks
+Daniel Gatchell That won't hurt 'em.
Even if you do bottom out the forks, it will not cause damage unless the seals are bad or improperly installed to begin with, you are not going to bend the fork tubes like this... You would have to exert extreme blunt force or extreme compression force, enough to actually bend the fork leg/tube. The forces required to do this are well in excess of what is in this video.
Think about coming down hard from a wheelie or hitting a pothole. This frequently bottoms out the forks completely and results in far greater forces on the suspension than what is in this video. While not recommended, forks are designed to handle bottoming out, most have a rubber stopper in there at the bottoming out point to prevent metal on metal contact.
never compress your shocks. You will blow the seals.
I don't agree with loading up the forks like that. I have always transported my bikes the same way and never liked it. I wish there was a better solution.
@@ImTheKaiser Thanks for your response. Its not the fluid that worries me, its the constant pressure on the fork spring. I can have my bike strapped down for 3 days travelling. Maybe I worry about nothing ?
Geeze I crinch at the sight of how much you compress those front forks down. Good way to blow them out
You need at least 2 tie down points for safety, in case one of them breaks. With 2 straps, if you hit the lottery and 1 breaks, you have a cool story to talk about at the next meetup. With 1 straps, if it breaks, you'll have a very shameful story to tell the victims family.
Rookie review can’t even hear you
6:55 You cloud blow the forks like this
There is no large amount of Oil Pressure inside of the forks, this is not how these forks function.
It is a common misconception that the Oil is Compressed when the Forks are Compressed and that it is this Compression of Oil that rebounds (bounces) the forks back up.
This is not how most suspensions function - the oil is not under high internal pressure during compression, the springs take this energy.
General Fork Overview:
Spring:
The springs inside the forks compress and cause rebound, it is the spring that takes most of the comprehensive energy and releases that energy as rebound.
Oil:
The Oil simply controls how fast the spring compresses and rebounds. This is done by forcing the Oil through compression/rebound valves.
Valve:
This valve controls how much oil can push through at any one time and thereby dampens the amount of compression/rebound. The size of the valve controls the amount of damping and how hard/soft the damping is.
(Important take-away: The spring stores the compression energy, not the Oil)
Oil cannot be compressed, the volume and displacement of the Oil stays the same throughout the Compression and Rebound strokes. Being non-compressible means that Oil cannot build up a lot of energy during compression to release on rebound, actually, the suspension would simply get hard as a rock if it worked that way. But that is not the oils purpose or how it works, that is the springs purpose and springs have a nice bounce to them, just like our suspensions do. The job of the oil is primarily to control the springs energy and control the rate/speed of compression/rebound.
So when you compress the forks all the way, you will find that the oil is pushed through the valve and simply ends up on the other side of the valve. The oil is not under pressure when the forks are resting or moving slowly, even when compressed.
The Oil can be under pressure in certain situations. Primarily when the forks are compressed/rebounded very rapidly and forcefully. (Like hitting a pot-hole) But even there they would have to be compressed so rapidly that the oil cannot pass through the valve quickly enough compared to the force of the impact.
This is not the case in our example, the forks are compressed slowly and left in a stationary position. In our scenario there is no excessive oil pressure, the oil simply flows through the valve to the other side and sits there.
You can also conclude with this that Fork Seals do not simply get Blown Out. You will find that the primary cause of leaky seals is degradation of the rubber o-ring, metal scarring that damages the o-ring and improper installation.
I hope that makes sense!
Kai
Shut the F up
I understand, it's above your pay rate.
So much for those fork seals. They'll be screwed after about 800/1000 miles (or repeated abuse like that).
@@ImTheKaiser Tell that to my 2013 Suzuki.
@@ImTheKaiser sure.
That is a shit trailer look how much it moves
You really just throw a strap over the top of your bike without explaining where it's laying or routed so we can see 🙄 And will somebody please grab a .22 and shut those freaking birds up. Thank you.
What a post poor demonstration.
This is How to NOT strap Your bike !!! Look on front suspension, all way down. Now imagine how long seals will hold pressure!? Do it this way and Your suspension will be f*cked.
Wrap around wheels, frame etc. Never ever let anyone transport Your bike with front suspension all way down.
Contrary to popular perception, completely compressing the forks will NOT build up pressure or cause damage, due to how forks are designed to function.
Even if you do bottom out the forks completely, it will not cause damage unless something is defective or improperly installed to begin with.
The oil in the fork tubes does not build up pressure, the oil flows freely from one chamber to the next through the Compression Valve.
Because oil is non-compressible, forks are not designed in a way to where the Oil builds up pressure and provide rebound, the spring is there for that function. Oil would be terrible for this function, as the non-compressible nature would be the same as hitting hitting concrete with a hammer.
Some shocks do use Gas to build up pressure and provide rebound, but that is a completely different system and Gas does compress progressively.
On almost all motorcycle forks, the rebound operation is from the springs in your fork, not from pressure in the oil. The oil only controls the rate of compression/rebound.
The only way to build up pressure is to compress the forks so rapidly that the oil cannot pass through the compression valve quickly enough. You would have to exert extremely fast compression force. And even then, there is a relief valve in the valve stack that will open up completely when extremely rapid forces are encountered.
You also won't bend the forks like this, the force needed to bend forks is very high, that force is well in excess of what is in this video and impacts that bend forks usually involve the forks being hit from an angle and not from straight compression. (Think about standing on a soda can, the very thin wall can handle your weight until force is applied from an angle)
Think about coming down hard from a wheelie or hitting a pothole. This frequently bottoms out the forks completely and results in far greater forces on the suspension than what is in this video. While not recommended, forks are designed to handle bottoming out, they have a rubber stopper at the bottoming out point to prevent metal on metal contact.