Thanks for this thoughtful review - I will be ordering mine today. One thing to mention since I have heard from other photogs as well: I have found that I occasionally get over-exposure/weird color temp casts when shooting on Canon TTL (about 1 in every 30-40 shots) on every Godox radio TTL model I’ve used, regardless of battery state, which always resolved on the next shot. Never happened on manual mode, but I’ve seen it happen shooting TTL over several Canon mirrorless models (RP, R, R5, R6). Not a dealbreaker since the price is more than right (less than half of OEM, with a great battery system to boot) and cost per shot is basically free, but worth mentioning when going non-OEM. I’m looking forward to loading up on this version since I can use my Magmods, and it’s brilliant on their part to use the same great v1 battery version.
Excellent review as always, Dustin! As a former Flashpoint R2 LI-ON (N) user (Adorama's V1 rebranded), I found that flash sometimes had the "misfire/underexposure" issue, even after a firmware update to V1.6. So, I now use the Godox V860lll. Thankfully, Godox makes an accessory (SR-1) that converts the rectangular head to a circular-shaped head (like the V1), so that any circular light mods from the R2/V1 can also be used on the V860lll...brilliant! Thanks again, Dustin, and Happy Holidays to you, sir!
I’ve been using the V1 for a couple of years now - I use a flash bender and the modeling light bounced into it for focus assist during dimly lit receptions once the dance floor is open. Was hoping the 860III would be an even better option but the lowest setting is just too bright; I wish they made it so you could dim it down much lower (firmware update?). Also, the foot locking mechanism for Canon had play in it - they sent me 3 and all had play. I know others have had this issue as well. Hopefully they’ll address this - I have two V1’s and neither has play once locked down.
Great review Dustin. Godox said it has a new Laser assist beam. Normally the af assist beam do not work on mirrorless bodies and from what I have read, Godox fixed this issue with version iii. can you check and see if the Flash AF assist beam works on mirrorless in AF-C and AF-S. Thank you.
I return the second one in 1 month, first, one hot shoe issue, the second unit stopped fire after 6 or 8 flashes I have to remove the Speedlite out then mount it back into my R5 it works another 6 shots and stops again. I use it on my EOS-R the same issue with R5, I stop using it, and use my V1 it working fine no issue with V1
Nice to see a review with the item in use. I have been kitted out with Canon gear for years, but these do look good for those not owning any flash yet. Nice one, keep up the good work.
The Godox V860iii is not compatible with the settings of in camera body flash control available with newer Sony camera like A7IV, A7RV. The settings called “external flash settings “ under flash settings in these cameras is greyed out when V860iii is attached on hot shoe or connected as off camera flash. Can a firmware update to V860iii be a solution to make it compatible with a very useful function within camera body to use the Godox flash to its fullest potential like the Sony Flashes? Kindly reply
I want to like this, especially as it is half the price of a comparable Sony unit. But I have read many reviews complaining about the hot shoe breaking and several reviews complaining about overall QC. So what's the deal, do these hold up well?
I haven't had any problems with them, but I'm not a working professional in the sense of doing weddings and/or portraits all the time. I pull strobes out 6 or 7 times a year, not every week.
Do you prefer the V860 III or the V1? Do the two really give much different results, and why would you choose one over the other? I've heard some people say that the round head of the V1 is superior, and others say that it makes hardly any difference.
This is the dilemma I am having. I just sold my Profoto B1 and 4 Canon 600 EXRT's and am really excited about going with Flashpoint (or Godox) I bought 2 ad300's a ad600, a V1 and a trigger. I still need to pick up 1 or two flashes for a particular need during weddings but the flash doesn't have to be powerful, as it would mostly just be a low powered corner of the wedding reception kicker light. I wanted to just get another V1 so I would have all the same magnetic modifiers that would be interchangeable so I can get rid of my Gary Fong Tupperware and my MagMod grids and diffusers, BUT, having said that I don't think the little frosted dome by Godox for the V1 can compare to a Gary Fong and MagMod modifier. So I thought about just getting the TT685C for $110 but then I would still have to deal with AA batteries, I ruled that out. and if I'm ruling out using AA batteries then really the question is do I want to deal with multiple different size Godox flash batteries, no, so It's got to be either the V1 or the 860iii, they use the same battery. Back to your question of which is better, it's a great question and there is not a definitive answer. The V1 is great if you need even light, say if you want to light a background drop cloth off camera and you want an even light pattern. the 860iii is great if the above modifiers really do work better and justify continuing to make room for it's bulkiness, because (correct me if I am wrong) the Magmod and Gary Font sphere only fit rectangular flash heads, you can put MagMod grids and gels on a V1 but your going to clip the edges of the round flash head. The modeling light that is always front facing is much brighter than the V1 and I believe more of a white light instead of tungsten that the V1 produces, for hybrid shooters in a pinch you could use it as a video light. Both have about the same power at something like 73 ws, which is almost 25 ws more powerful than the Canon 600 EXRT. But the only difference in functionality that would make me keep a traditional flash head around is the physical manual/TTL switch on the side of the 860iii unit. I can see myself walking backward out of a dark church as a bride and groom just tied the knot, and as soon as they step outside the exposure completely changes and the 2pm July sun light is god awful creating hideous shadows on their faces, in this situation you could just quickly roll your f stop wheel to get the exposure right and flick physical flash switch to TTL and not miss those first expressions the couple always gives each other. I'm trying to talk myself into the 860iii if you cant tell =) I think the "in a pinch video light" of the 860iii makes it the winner for me. But I am going to do a little test and confirm the results of the diffusers of all three I mentioned above, as long as the Godox can still throw light sideways when the head is pointed up then it's good enough for my needs. I love my new lighting kit, I should put it on my channel, I pretty much have a full studio packed into a 30" x 20" Costco collapsible wagon. The build quality of Godox isn't the same as Canon or Profoto so buy those rubber sleeve protectors and know that when you do break one of those flash bodies from dropping them it will cost you almost as much as the Godox strobes brand new.
Hal, I agree with Dustin. Having had the Flashpoint R2 (the V1 rebranded) for 2 years, and just recently acquiring the Godox V860lll, I find absolutely no difference insofar as light spread/coverage/effect in terms of the head shape...mainly because, as I mention above, Godox thoughtfully makes an SR-1 accessory that basically converts the rectangular head to a circular shape, meaning that any light mods that fit the circular head will also work with the rectangular head! I'm hoping that the V860lll gives me more reliability/consistency that my previous R2 LI-ON circular flash did! Good luck!
@@stevetqp9152 Thank you for sharing your experience. I decided to buy the V860 III, and it's been working very well for me. I have never tried a flash with a round head, but I haven't run into any situation that gave me trouble with the rectangular head. I got a basic aftermarket diffuser for the 860 and I'm getting very good results.
It seems to be quite powerful for it's size. 197 guide number is on par with the handle mount Metz strobes from the 90s. It does everything that a Nikon flash does with more power and a fraction of the cost. I got one a couple of weeks ago
Yup - I owned a SunPak 622 and several Metz handle flashes, and today’s tech eclipses those in power and functionality without requiring a huge NiCad or TurboZ battery pack with cables strewn everywhere. Amazing to get that many flashes, with that much power, without the back and headaches. Today’s generation has it easy! 🤣
I'm a professional wedding photographer and have new Sony A7IV and purchased new Godox V350s also Godox 860iiis and they both are inconsistent in light output when used in ttl mode on flash regardless of recycle time ready or battery charge etc and it's same composition with same lighting scenarios. My camera settings is on manual and I tried rear sync, fill flash and it's no fix. Sometimes it produces very powerful light output and sometimes under exposed. Is this a brand compatibility issue Godox with Sony? Is there any settings I need to do?
@@DustinAbbottTWI thanks. I'm trying to customise the back of camera wheel to change the ev with just turning the wheel in manual setting but there is no option for it in the camera customise options. Is there another way to do that? Also can't customise 'flash off' for any of the buttons. Camera is Sony a7iv
I‘m landscape photographer and have hardly ever used flashes. Now I’m going to buy one and can’t decide between the V1 and 860iii. For the portraits I usually use the 200mm focal distance, if I take a group photo I often use 20mm. For this reason I think the 860iii would be a better choice for me, am I wrong? On the other hand, if I‘m going to use my new flash mainly remotely, the restricted (28-105mm only) range of the V1 doesn’t matter much, does it?
I didn't see a radical difference between the two flashes in performance, but if you typically shoot at 200mm, you might as well choose the flash that natively supports that length even if you shoot off channel.
I want a good general purpose flash for my first flash. I will mostly use it on camera when I do us it while learning. Do you think this would be too big and heavy on a D500 w/ battery grip? I mostly like doing macro of bugs and flowers and my lens and teleconverter make the whole setup already quite heavy and cumbersome for handheld. I do plan on eventually getting a tripod but do you think i would miss out on features and power if I got the V350 or should I just get the V860iii just so that i dont have to worry about missing out?
Hey boss. I am deciding between the V1 and the V860iii, but I have a question. Is it true that the V1 flash or modeling light (either or) is a little more yellow toned in comparison to the v860iii? And since the V1 is round headed, does the flash look less powerful because of its shape? I have seen pictures of the flash against a wall and it looks like the v860iii is more bright in a sense?
I recently got this flash and for some reason every second or third shot the flash does not go off. This happens in manual and TTL mode. It worked fine my first few sessions that I used it. I was wondering if you know of any setting I may have switched to cause this to happen or if this could be an irregularity with my product. Of note, it happens on a fully charged battery so I don’t believe it is the charge. Thanks for the wonderful review!
Good review. I got V1S for a7siii camera but unfortunately in TTL auto mode it does not pre fire for metering which is not usable in auto mode.very annoying and no help from Godox
That's an interesting question, because in many ways I found little practical difference in operation between the two. There is a difference in that modeling light location, so perhaps think about whether you would prefer the modeling light always front facing or on the head.
I think the star performer of this whole episode is the light shaper 'lite scoop'. The seamless transition from the ambient to the subtle fill is what hits the attention. From a small reflector as this, the job is almost done. Now, if I may, in comparison to your first shots the long distance shots have the flash intensity much pronounced. Where they on purpose or just that when you removed the flash from the frame and subsequently increased the output, the reflector behaved differently?
The Lite Scoop is a great little piece of kit. As for the difference in lighting - it was mostly due to differing ratios. Farther away I had to compete with more ambient light (backlight), and thus crank up the intensity.
Hi, Dustin, I finally buy tamron apsc 18-300mm for zv e10 based on your review. Btw will you recommend this v860iii or v860ii for me? I have a plan to use the flash for tamron when in low light or dim light so at least i won’t be too dependant to my sigma 16mm for night photography. For video, I rarely shoot at night, so without sigma 16mm is still okay. How about this consideration? Hopefully you respond this question. Thank you.
@@DustinAbbottTWI As for the trigger, which one do you recommend? XS Pro or X2T? i love TMC of xs pro but I love the bluetooth feature found on x2T. I know the BT feature depends on our phone. I’m confused.
Thanks for the review. I have a question. Do you use this in HSS mode whit the Sony? I got the flash yesterday and I took a single shot in HSS in 1/1000 and the picture came out strange, how if I had put a blue layer on top at 30% opacity in Photoshop.
I use them fairly often in HSS because I have a lot of wide aperture glass. Were you bouncing the flash? Sometimes you can get some different color casts if you are bouncing off something with color.
@@DustinAbbottTWI you seemed to suggest that the new 860III uses the same battery as some of the off camera flashes from Godox but I can't determine which flashes. It doesn't appear to use the AD200/200Pro or the AD100's battery? I know I seem obsessed about compatible batteries but as a shooter I hate needing to carry two different batteries and two different chargers around along with all the other stuff that's needed.
That's probably the limit of your flash sync speed on your camera. You can go into HSS mode (look up how) and sync at higher shutter speeds, though at reduced power output from the flash.
Just ripped the connection off my v1 a few days ago. Had a cheap stand mount, moved it and it cracked the dial lock and hot shoe connector. Pretty sure the Sony hot shoe mount is god awful. Love my godox stuff but I guess part of it is you’re gonna lose a few here and there 😂🤦🏻♂️
I have broken 2 of these already on a flash and trigger. I prefer the old screw lock for sure. When it breaks on the camera hot shoe sometimes you will need a small screwdriver or credit card to wedge in and pish the pin lever up so you can get it off!!
The battery is a work horse-so glad I purchased this flash, wish I had it years ago. I love the Lite-Scoop too.
It is a great flash.
Thanks for this thoughtful review - I will be ordering mine today. One thing to mention since I have heard from other photogs as well: I have found that I occasionally get over-exposure/weird color temp casts when shooting on Canon TTL (about 1 in every 30-40 shots) on every Godox radio TTL model I’ve used, regardless of battery state, which always resolved on the next shot. Never happened on manual mode, but I’ve seen it happen shooting TTL over several Canon mirrorless models (RP, R, R5, R6). Not a dealbreaker since the price is more than right (less than half of OEM, with a great battery system to boot) and cost per shot is basically free, but worth mentioning when going non-OEM. I’m looking forward to loading up on this version since I can use my Magmods, and it’s brilliant on their part to use the same great v1 battery version.
That's interesting, as I've actually really appreciated that about Godox flashes. I've gotten very little of that.
Excellent review as always, Dustin! As a former Flashpoint R2 LI-ON (N) user (Adorama's V1 rebranded), I found that flash sometimes had the "misfire/underexposure" issue, even after a firmware update to V1.6. So, I now use the Godox V860lll. Thankfully, Godox makes an accessory (SR-1) that converts the rectangular head to a circular-shaped head (like the V1), so that any circular light mods from the R2/V1 can also be used on the V860lll...brilliant! Thanks again, Dustin, and Happy Holidays to you, sir!
Got the V860iii for Xmas and thanks for your video. I still have lots to learn, but your videos will help.
Enjoy your new flash, Bernard.
@@DustinAbbottTWI Thanks a lot. There is lots to learn, but I have all the time in the world. I will need to go back into your video often.
This really helped me make my decision. Thank you. Reliable and honest as usual.
Glad to help
Big fan of Godox. Use the little tt350 with my Fuji mostly for macro.
I've been very impressed with most all of their products. There was one that I didn't love, but that's out of about 7-8 I've spent time with.
I’ve been using the V1 for a couple of years now - I use a flash bender and the modeling light bounced into it for focus assist during dimly lit receptions once the dance floor is open. Was hoping the 860III would be an even better option but the lowest setting is just too bright; I wish they made it so you could dim it down much lower (firmware update?). Also, the foot locking mechanism for Canon had play in it - they sent me 3 and all had play. I know others have had this issue as well. Hopefully they’ll address this - I have two V1’s and neither has play once locked down.
That's interesting with the play in the foot.
Great review Dustin. Godox said it has a new Laser assist beam. Normally the af assist beam do not work on mirrorless bodies and from what I have read, Godox fixed this issue with version iii. can you check and see if the Flash AF assist beam works on mirrorless in AF-C and AF-S. Thank you.
I'm not in a position to test that at the moment, but Godox does say it works.
I return the second one in 1 month, first, one hot shoe issue, the second unit stopped fire after 6 or 8 flashes I have to remove the Speedlite out then mount it back into my R5 it works another 6 shots and stops again. I use it on my EOS-R the same issue with R5, I stop using it, and use my V1 it working fine no issue with V1
Hmmm, that's too bad. I haven't heard anyone else report that issue.
Thank you very much for this thorough and helpful review!
My pleasure!
Thank you for the review. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice to see a review with the item in use. I have been kitted out with Canon gear for years, but these do look good for those not owning any flash yet. Nice one, keep up the good work.
My pleasure!
Great review as usual Dustin - been using a few 865iis for sometime but will definitely consider this new godox flash when buying again.
There are some very useful upgrrades here, for sure.
The Godox V860iii is not compatible with the settings of in camera body flash control available with newer Sony camera like A7IV, A7RV. The settings called “external flash settings “ under flash settings in these cameras is greyed out when V860iii is attached on hot shoe or connected as off camera flash. Can a firmware update to V860iii be a solution to make it compatible with a very useful function within camera body to use the Godox flash to its fullest potential like the Sony Flashes? Kindly reply
I would say the answer is "yes", but I don't know if/when Godox will do that.
I want to like this, especially as it is half the price of a comparable Sony unit. But I have read many reviews complaining about the hot shoe breaking and several reviews complaining about overall QC. So what's the deal, do these hold up well?
I haven't had any problems with them, but I'm not a working professional in the sense of doing weddings and/or portraits all the time. I pull strobes out 6 or 7 times a year, not every week.
Do you prefer the V860 III or the V1? Do the two really give much different results, and why would you choose one over the other? I've heard some people say that the round head of the V1 is superior, and others say that it makes hardly any difference.
That's a good question, and I would have to say for my purposes that I don't actually see much difference.
This is the dilemma I am having. I just sold my Profoto B1 and 4 Canon 600 EXRT's and am really excited about going with Flashpoint (or Godox) I bought 2 ad300's a ad600, a V1 and a trigger. I still need to pick up 1 or two flashes for a particular need during weddings but the flash doesn't have to be powerful, as it would mostly just be a low powered corner of the wedding reception kicker light. I wanted to just get another V1 so I would have all the same magnetic modifiers that would be interchangeable so I can get rid of my Gary Fong Tupperware and my MagMod grids and diffusers, BUT, having said that I don't think the little frosted dome by Godox for the V1 can compare to a Gary Fong and MagMod modifier. So I thought about just getting the TT685C for $110 but then I would still have to deal with AA batteries, I ruled that out. and if I'm ruling out using AA batteries then really the question is do I want to deal with multiple different size Godox flash batteries, no, so It's got to be either the V1 or the 860iii, they use the same battery. Back to your question of which is better, it's a great question and there is not a definitive answer. The V1 is great if you need even light, say if you want to light a background drop cloth off camera and you want an even light pattern. the 860iii is great if the above modifiers really do work better and justify continuing to make room for it's bulkiness, because (correct me if I am wrong) the Magmod and Gary Font sphere only fit rectangular flash heads, you can put MagMod grids and gels on a V1 but your going to clip the edges of the round flash head. The modeling light that is always front facing is much brighter than the V1 and I believe more of a white light instead of tungsten that the V1 produces, for hybrid shooters in a pinch you could use it as a video light. Both have about the same power at something like 73 ws, which is almost 25 ws more powerful than the Canon 600 EXRT. But the only difference in functionality that would make me keep a traditional flash head around is the physical manual/TTL switch on the side of the 860iii unit. I can see myself walking backward out of a dark church as a bride and groom just tied the knot, and as soon as they step outside the exposure completely changes and the 2pm July sun light is god awful creating hideous shadows on their faces, in this situation you could just quickly roll your f stop wheel to get the exposure right and flick physical flash switch to TTL and not miss those first expressions the couple always gives each other. I'm trying to talk myself into the 860iii if you cant tell =) I think the "in a pinch video light" of the 860iii makes it the winner for me. But I am going to do a little test and confirm the results of the diffusers of all three I mentioned above, as long as the Godox can still throw light sideways when the head is pointed up then it's good enough for my needs. I love my new lighting kit, I should put it on my channel, I pretty much have a full studio packed into a 30" x 20" Costco collapsible wagon. The build quality of Godox isn't the same as Canon or Profoto so buy those rubber sleeve protectors and know that when you do break one of those flash bodies from dropping them it will cost you almost as much as the Godox strobes brand new.
Hal, I agree with Dustin. Having had the Flashpoint R2 (the V1 rebranded) for 2 years, and just recently acquiring the Godox V860lll, I find absolutely no difference insofar as light spread/coverage/effect in terms of the head shape...mainly because, as I mention above, Godox thoughtfully makes an SR-1 accessory that basically converts the rectangular head to a circular shape, meaning that any light mods that fit the circular head will also work with the rectangular head! I'm hoping that the V860lll gives me more reliability/consistency that my previous R2 LI-ON circular flash did! Good luck!
@@stevetqp9152 Thank you for sharing your experience. I decided to buy the V860 III, and it's been working very well for me. I have never tried a flash with a round head, but I haven't run into any situation that gave me trouble with the rectangular head. I got a basic aftermarket diffuser for the 860 and I'm getting very good results.
Thanks Dustin. Another great review.
My pleasure!
It seems to be quite powerful for it's size. 197 guide number is on par with the handle mount Metz strobes from the 90s. It does everything that a Nikon flash does with more power and a fraction of the cost. I got one a couple of weeks ago
Yup - I owned a SunPak 622 and several Metz handle flashes, and today’s tech eclipses those in power and functionality without requiring a huge NiCad or TurboZ battery pack with cables strewn everywhere. Amazing to get that many flashes, with that much power, without the back and headaches. Today’s generation has it easy! 🤣
Agreed. That's a lot of power for the money.
The only things I care about are recycle time at full power and the brightness and coverage of the auto focus assist beam.
Thank you sir, appreciated.
You're welcome.
I'm a professional wedding photographer and have new Sony A7IV and purchased new Godox V350s also Godox 860iiis and they both are inconsistent in light output when used in ttl mode on flash regardless of recycle time ready or battery charge etc and it's same composition with same lighting scenarios. My camera settings is on manual and I tried rear sync, fill flash and it's no fix. Sometimes it produces very powerful light output and sometimes under exposed.
Is this a brand compatibility issue Godox with Sony? Is there any settings I need to do?
Hmmm, I’ve tested a fair number of Godox flashes but have never had that issue. I would reach out to Godox with the question.
@@DustinAbbottTWI thanks.
I'm trying to customise the back of camera wheel to change the ev with just turning the wheel in manual setting but there is no option for it in the camera customise options. Is there another way to do that?
Also can't customise 'flash off' for any of the buttons.
Camera is Sony a7iv
I‘m landscape photographer and have hardly ever used flashes. Now I’m going to buy one and can’t decide between the V1 and 860iii. For the portraits I usually use the 200mm focal distance, if I take a group photo I often use 20mm. For this reason I think the 860iii would be a better choice for me, am I wrong? On the other hand, if I‘m going to use my new flash mainly remotely, the restricted (28-105mm only) range of the V1 doesn’t matter much, does it?
I didn't see a radical difference between the two flashes in performance, but if you typically shoot at 200mm, you might as well choose the flash that natively supports that length even if you shoot off channel.
I want a good general purpose flash for my first flash. I will mostly use it on camera when I do us it while learning. Do you think this would be too big and heavy on a D500 w/ battery grip? I mostly like doing macro of bugs and flowers and my lens and teleconverter make the whole setup already quite heavy and cumbersome for handheld. I do plan on eventually getting a tripod but do you think i would miss out on features and power if I got the V350 or should I just get the V860iii just so that i dont have to worry about missing out?
I think this is a solid choice.
Hey boss. I am deciding between the V1 and the V860iii, but I have a question. Is it true that the V1 flash or modeling light (either or) is a little more yellow toned in comparison to the v860iii?
And since the V1 is round headed, does the flash look less powerful because of its shape? I have seen pictures of the flash against a wall and it looks like the v860iii is more bright in a sense?
I personally really like the V1, and can't say that it has looked more "yellowed" to my eye.
I recently got this flash and for some reason every second or third shot the flash does not go off. This happens in manual and TTL mode. It worked fine my first few sessions that I used it. I was wondering if you know of any setting I may have switched to cause this to happen or if this could be an irregularity with my product. Of note, it happens on a fully charged battery so I don’t believe it is the charge. Thanks for the wonderful review!
Hmmm, I don't think I've encountered this problem. It might be something you have to ask Godox
Great review.
Glad you enjoyed it
Good review. I got V1S for a7siii camera but unfortunately in TTL auto mode it does not pre fire for metering which is not usable in auto mode.very annoying and no help from Godox
That's unfortunate
Awesome Dustin, thanks for the review! Buying my first flash, would you get the 860iii or the V1? Cheers.
That's an interesting question, because in many ways I found little practical difference in operation between the two. There is a difference in that modeling light location, so perhaps think about whether you would prefer the modeling light always front facing or on the head.
@@DustinAbbottTWI Thank you!
I think the star performer of this whole episode is the light shaper 'lite scoop'. The seamless transition from the ambient to the subtle fill is what hits the attention. From a small reflector as this, the job is almost done. Now, if I may, in comparison to your first shots the long distance shots have the flash intensity much pronounced. Where they on purpose or just that when you removed the flash from the frame and subsequently increased the output, the reflector behaved differently?
The Lite Scoop is a great little piece of kit. As for the difference in lighting - it was mostly due to differing ratios. Farther away I had to compete with more ambient light (backlight), and thus crank up the intensity.
Hi, Dustin, I finally buy tamron apsc 18-300mm for zv e10 based on your review. Btw will you recommend this v860iii or v860ii for me? I have a plan to use the flash for tamron when in low light or dim light so at least i won’t be too dependant to my sigma 16mm for night photography. For video, I rarely shoot at night, so without sigma 16mm is still okay. How about this consideration? Hopefully you respond this question. Thank you.
I havent' tested the older MK II version, so I don't really have a good answer for you. I like the V860III quite well.
@@DustinAbbottTWI As for the trigger, which one do you recommend? XS Pro or X2T? i love TMC of xs pro but I love the bluetooth feature found on x2T. I know the BT feature depends on our phone. I’m confused.
Thanks for the review. I have a question. Do you use this in HSS mode whit the Sony? I got the flash yesterday and I took a single shot in HSS in 1/1000 and the picture came out strange, how if I had put a blue layer on top at 30% opacity in Photoshop.
I use them fairly often in HSS because I have a lot of wide aperture glass. Were you bouncing the flash? Sometimes you can get some different color casts if you are bouncing off something with color.
I own the 860II and the V1 and was upset that they didn't use the same battery or battery charger. Now I see this one uses that same battery.
Yes, that was one of the key improvements here. I find that very useful.
@@DustinAbbottTWI you seemed to suggest that the new 860III uses the same battery as some of the off camera flashes from Godox but I can't determine which flashes. It doesn't appear to use the AD200/200Pro or the AD100's battery? I know I seem obsessed about compatible batteries but as a shooter I hate needing to carry two different batteries and two different chargers around along with all the other stuff that's needed.
Definitely the V1. The model number isn't identical on something like the AD100, but the battery actually fits and works
When I use godox v860iii I can't put shutter speed in my sony camera over 160 ; Any idea about it?
That's probably the limit of your flash sync speed on your camera. You can go into HSS mode (look up how) and sync at higher shutter speeds, though at reduced power output from the flash.
Does AF assist lamp can work ONLY when focusing or its ON all the time ?
I don't actually know the answer to that. You may need to ask Godox.
@@DustinAbbottTWI thanks anyway 😊
Can it be mounted for nikon zf ?
Yes - just buy the Nikon version to get the correct TTL
Just ripped the connection off my v1 a few days ago. Had a cheap stand mount, moved it and it cracked the dial lock and hot shoe connector. Pretty sure the Sony hot shoe mount is god awful. Love my godox stuff but I guess part of it is you’re gonna lose a few here and there 😂🤦🏻♂️
I agree that the design at the quick release mount should be more robust.
I have broken 2 of these already on a flash and trigger. I prefer the old screw lock for sure. When it breaks on the camera hot shoe sometimes you will need a small screwdriver or credit card to wedge in and pish the pin lever up so you can get it off!!
Can you charge the flash, with battery, via USB-C?
I think the USB port on the flash is for firmware updates, not charging.
Can this flash be run off an external battery pack?
Not that I’m aware of.
Do I need trigger for that flash?
Only if you use it off camera.
Whats your fav flash??
That depends on what I'm doing, but for this type of work I do like the V1 a lot.
Those letters the v60iii (o) (f) (n) do they mater
That represents the camera brand (olympus, fuji, nikon) that the flash is designed for. Each brand has their own TTL communicating and metering.