FOR HATS AND SWAG GO HERE!----->jpaydirt.com OLD KENNY COLORING BOOKS------> amazon.com/Old-Kenny-Semi-Truck-Coloring-Book/dp/1724398199/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533523771&sr=8-1&keywords=old+kenny+coloring+book JPAYDIRT ON INSTAGRAM------->instagram.com/jpaydirt/ JPAYDIRT ON FACEBOOK------>facebook.com/Jpaydirt/ MY AWESOME TOOLBOXES--------->toolcrownusa.com/ HELP A VETERAN, SHANE PERSONS C/O ua-cam.com/video/iHeH5cl7JGo/v-deo.html ANDERSON CONSTRUCTION 858 WEST 100 SOUTH BLACKFOOT ID 83221
have a nice day,, i`m looking for a job here. heavy equipment operator from philippines i`m current work at japan my contact no. 07014641796 thanks a lot and power to you sir,,
Hi, My name is John Wolf and I worked at caterpillar from 1964 to 2002 most of the time at Mossville at the engine plant, in the machine shop, assembly, and quality control. I retired and moved to Salmon Idaho. Good chance that engine went down the line when I was working.
A big crankshaft with a flywheel base makes a great mail box post , put a 1 connecting rod on to hold the house number and install mail box on top . They hit that they may tear up your box but you may tear up there stuff too . That’s what a Concrete company in Raleigh , NC use and they fixed people from hitting there mail box and Post !
I bought a 3406-B out of an 1983 359 PETERBILT that had never been rebuilt it had only 600,000 miles on it. The truck had an aluminum frame and it had been broken and sold to a junk yard. I rebuilt it and it runs great, so i feel you joy.
My boss and I found an issue with the rear wear sleeve for the crankshaft seal for D343's . Ive installed many in the field and in the shop. About 4 years ago i noticed a pretty good leak from the rear seal of a 343 (i just built) that was on the engine Dyno at Modern Machine in washington. It was a full load 4 hour dyno so I let it drip/sling till the test was over. After the engine was back at the shop, I carefully disassembled the parts to see what I F'd up. Everything looked perfect until I looked very carefully at the CAT wear sleeve (from dealer). It had a groove like a record. It was like a hydrodynamic action but it screwed the oil out of the seal. I took it to the dealer and found ALL 10 on the shelf were exactly the same. Then we had a couple redo's on seals previously installed around the same year or so, that were leaking as well. I found some older wear rings deep in the metal dumpster and inspected them...no groove at all. The dealer didnt really care and said theyd replace if they failed, but thats a lot of work to roll the dice on if it leaks! So my boss had a machine shop make us 50 wear sleeves that were smooth as a baby's butt. We didnt have another seal failure after that. These were marine engines and I dont know the difference of all that brake saver, dirt mechanic, weird stuff, but Cat definitely has a stock of flawed D343 wear sleeves in their dealer warehouses - just to let anyone know that may be installing them. I guess i coulda told that story in less words but oh well. If anyone reading this has the same issue, Radtke Marine in Seattle Washington has some of those machined sleeves on the shelf.
Thanks for the rack info Jeff. I'll have to watch again to make sure I get the rear main seal right. I'm putting the head on tomorrow. Mine is 65B3250 out of a 72 Brockway. You are a wealth of knowledge...
Hey Jeff that mailbox isn’t too bad. I have the same job but in a different state; and I am all by my self in the truck. Over my career I lost count of how many I damaged or destroyed. None were intentional just the heavy wet snow or a loss of concentration during the storm. Glad you got it fixed. Enjoy your videos and look forward to new ones as they come. Take care.
I drove a 1974 Kenworth W900 many miles with a 1693 425 engine. My truck was the lowboy truck and we had the engine turned up a bit. I would guess it was making around 500 horsepower. Turbo lag was huge with these engines. Once you learned how to deal with it, you had a real powerhouse.
I used to drive a 1974 KW cabover with 1683, which was the 375 Horsepower. When I was stationed at Galena Air Force Station Alaska, they had P4 firetruck equipment as fire protection for the Airport. These P4's had the 1693 CAT engines, and they were rated 425 Horsepower according to the Technical Order we had for repair guidance.
Re “If they had not junked it I would not own it” 19:14, that about sums up all the best automotive purchases, one man’s junk is another man’s treasure, the only time one gets a good deal is when others consider what they are selling to be junk.
What a great video Jeff and that's hard to believe that nobody's ever been in that engine your correct that is definitely hard to believe you violated it that had to make you feel good from Fort Mitchell Alabama
Likely that micrometer got dropped and bent to throw it out of whack. you need something accurate square within the width it measures to verify that the ends are exactly parallel to each other still. If it is bent it won't be and it will always read bad. Normally you rotate the barrel to get it to read right but that won't make up for a .025" error. I am not sure if there is another way to adjust that Lufkin one. I am not familiar with exactly how that brand is made.
If you need a seal made or desgined Jeff. Again that's another part of industrial pump repair & install. Seals have become some highly specialized components.
You need some standards to set a micrometer and usually a special wrench to unlock to nut that keeps it from moving. A zero to one inch doesn't need one, but all the other sizes do. Using a caliper is pretty hard to get closer than .001 because they are so easy to spring a little with thumb pressure.
Jeff.. making a swinging mail box pole requires a 10' length of 2" electrical conduit.. Two 2" 90 degree elbows.. FIVE 2" Couplings. a piece of ABS or PVC pipe about 18" long that will slip over the outside of the conduit, a glue on pipe cap for the ABS or PVC.. .. a 5 gallon bucket.. 2 bags of redi crete post hole mix.. put the cap on the plastic piece.. lay it at an angle in the bucket.. put the redi crete in dry for now.. you will want to cut the 10' piece of conduit in half.. stick the end of a 5' conduit into the plastic pipe so its still leaning.. add an elbow to the top.. add another elbow to that elbow. .using couplings.. twist this assembly sideways so you can level the second elbow.. a coupling and another 5 foot piece of conduit.. you will need to support this.. or just hold on to it.. now you have a pole that you can mount your mail box too. perhaps welding it to the fifth conduit coupling.. ... if you like this swinging set up.. you can pour water on the redi create fence pole mix to get it to cure.. holding the plastic pipe in at an angle... when it cured.. bury the 5 gallon bucket so the pole aims across the road.. insert your 5' section.. the 2 elbows and couplings.. the 5 foot horizontal piece may need to be shortened to get the mail box in the proper spot.. the elbows and couplings adjusted. so you now have a swing away and swing return to center mail box support. you may only want a 10 or 15 degree angle on the plastic pipe in the redicrete.. so you might want to experiment before you water it.. its also easily adjustable with a single screwdriver.. or easily replaced if somebody really hits it.. i made one for my mom.. she wanted to put a 200+ pound rototiller out there as a mail box stand. i explained you can't put that much mass that close to the state highway edge.. if somebody hits it they could be killed.. now if somebody whacks your swinging mail box.. they are just likely to end up with a broken tail light for some some unexplained reason.. as what comes around.. goes around.. and if the snow plow hits it.. its going to spin around..
Cat history period. Jay I love your patient tutorial style speak damn good teacher. Geez I sound like a groupie. You need a chute system for that mailbox lol
I'm thinking you screw the cap off the back of the micrometer and there is a screw that loosens the thimble so it can be adjusted to line up properly with the markings on the barrel. Or maybe you found that out already.
Jeff Rookyard Jeff, I enjoy your videos, good to see good old gear being well maintained. I always learn something watching what you do. To see the really big trucks in Australia you will have to go to western Queensland or the Northern Territory or Western Australia. Our autumn (Easter) is the nicest weather. Yours in old grease, Jeff. Bowral NSW Australia.
I had the 3408 cat in my 84 pete conv. Got almost 4mpg and burned oil, but it ran over 100 easy. But cost a fortune to keep running. Thats it in my picture to the left, light blue.
@@hogcat858 Dang. Yeah,I heard a lot about them burnning Gallons of Oil But Being able to outrun the Po-pos or whoever. I Agree wit h the fact they where very expensive to keep running.
There are tons of 3408's still running in boats on the West coast. Many of them are prechambered even. A popular commercial fishing boat -The Delta 58' came with 3408's for the Main Engine. Theyre in boats at marinas all over Alaska/Ore./Wa especially. As popular as the 3412 (if not more) in the marine/generator world.
Very interesting watching you tear down these engines and give us all a lesson on what to do and not to do. I’ve only rebuild gas engines but when the crank in my 460 was pooched I was able to have it cut and put oversized bearings in, is that a possibility or is that generally done in gas engines or just a lack of oversized bearings in 1693s?
Back in 70's when I was driving I was running with a guy in a Pete conventional he bought used and it had a Cat 325hp and he said it pulled really good. I wonder if this is same motor.
Jeff Seems to me that that crank could be saved. I watched a video where they weld everything up then turn it back to Standard Standard. The guy said it was a bit pricey but when you need a obsolete part. Just throwing it out there.🤔
Welding a crank is an absolute no no unless you just plan to start it up and let it idle every now and again. The damage done when a crank lets go is just not worth it, I'd run an old scoured crank with new bearings if I had to on a restoration but never on an engine that someone relys on to make a living.
@@michaelbrown8545 I wasn't talking about Billy Bob setting down with a miller bobcat and doing the work . I saw a video of a company that specializes in fixing hard to find or replace crankshafts. They did all sorts of metallurgy checking and heat treatment on thier work after repairs.
As far as the micrometer, there is always a way to zero them out. The dead end may have a set screw, or like you said, you remove the cap and with the micrometer closed and should read zero you adjust it to read zero.
You use what is called a standard to calibrate a micrometer. If you have a 2-3 mic the standard is ground to 2”. If you close then mic on the standard and the zero is off you use a special spanner wrench to adjust the barrel to make them line up.
It’s true, there’s another rising channel called Bruce Wilson, who is restoring a cabover, so it’s likely they will recommend these videos to his subscribers. I follow a few heavy diesel guys but I imagine that’s why it was recommended to me.
So I’m rebuilding a 1693 that’s in a 72 kw is there anything I will need to keep an eye out for? I only have about 2 years in the Diesle tech field so I don’t know much about these old engines so any advice would b wonderful. Thanks in advance
Nothin but the best on this channel folks!; and to get to watch the Boss Man be charged up about the first surgical procedure on that ole girl makes me smile while freezin!! 😳😳😳👍grr im over winter!! Best channel on the lube tube! Period!!! 🤘
That is amazing engine you to be the first to give it a workover !! what are you going to make it ? 500 to the Ground ? Ole Kenny will smile with that though a Double over 5 X 4 !
How do you pull the pump on these 1693 cats? I'm trying to take off the injection pump/ lift pump and I belive I've got all the bolts out looking for some tips
There's 4 - 3/8 bolts that go thru the pump body and into the block, then some 5/16 bolts that attach it to the drive housing, it should come off quite easy from there, now if you want to remove the whole thing, pump and drive together, undo the 3/8 bolts and nuts that attach the housing to the rear housing and the four 3/8 bolts thru the pump to block, really need a service truck for that, because it heavy!
@@Jpaydirt thank you I'll check again if I missed any bolts I got the injection pump off just need to take off the drive into from the gear case to the injection pump. I believe I got them all but it acts like I missed one next to the block side or is seized on
Hi Jeff Love all your videos, very informative and funny !!! Old Kenny is Awesome. I've got 2012 T909 ISX 600hp Kenworth and would not trade it for anything, All the best from Tasmania Australia
Suspect Larry near had a heart atack when Jeff layed into the pistons with the 14 pounder as well as letting the rods drop as the crank fell out and not numbering anything. Personally I would have taken the time to salvage that iron as there is always someone out there with worse bits to replace. This old iron is precious, they just dont make it anymore.😉
@@michaelbrown8545 I layed out the mains in order and put them back on the block in order as they are not numbered, the rods are salvagable and numbered, but since I didn't have 5 hands to hold them I let em drop, don't think it hurt them any, I did have the bolts out so they didn't hit and damage the threads, don't know how I would have got the pistons out with out knocking them down the hole first to break loose the rust and then grind it out. not sure yet what Larry is cranky about, get it? cranky LOL
That Micrometer looks lie its from the USAAF, United States Army Air Force that would be from the 1940's? Have your favorite machine shop check/calibrate it with one of their standards.
Good evening sir, why have you condemned the original engine block out of Old Kenny? Has it just been decked too many times? Also can the crank from Old Kenny or the donor 1693 not be ground undersized and reused? Or is the problem that undersized bearings aren't available? Really enjoy the engine videos. For the numbering system, the letters spell out NUMERALKOD or "numeral code" that method of date coding items goes way way back with Cat, to at least the 1930s, not sure why they didn't just use numbers, but that's what the cipher spells out.
so the original block has over 2 million miles on it, a lot of them at some extreme power levels, the mains were moving in the block so it would need bored, the deck has been milled once, and the lower and upper bores would probably need repaired, so i just looked at it from the money aspect and said it might be better to go get a block that has been at 325hp all it's life and not ever been machined yet and I think I found a real gem with this one
@@Jpaydirt thank you for answering my inquiry. I watched the teardown and was under the impression that it was only torn down due to the broken valve / heat button. Absolutely makes sense to use a better foundation if one is available. As for the crank out of the 325, can it be reground? Or is the preferred solution to find a good used standard crank?
Jeff I guess I missed the video or the memo, but what you gonna do with the 1693 that I assume you are trying to build?? Thanks for the video's ....Jack Baker
FOR HATS AND SWAG GO HERE!----->jpaydirt.com
OLD KENNY COLORING BOOKS------> amazon.com/Old-Kenny-Semi-Truck-Coloring-Book/dp/1724398199/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533523771&sr=8-1&keywords=old+kenny+coloring+book
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HELP A VETERAN, SHANE PERSONS C/O ua-cam.com/video/iHeH5cl7JGo/v-deo.html
ANDERSON CONSTRUCTION
858 WEST 100 SOUTH
BLACKFOOT ID 83221
have a nice day,, i`m looking for a job here. heavy equipment operator from philippines i`m current work at japan my contact no. 07014641796 thanks a lot and power to you sir,,
Jeffrey Avila n
@@barblesburg2435 yes sir, have a nice day,
"My life insurance is paid up" LMAO!
You should make a museum just for the 1693. It's Cat's first semi engine it's legacy deserves to be remembered.
Hi,
My name is John Wolf and I worked at caterpillar from 1964 to 2002 most of the time at Mossville at the engine plant, in the machine shop, assembly, and quality control. I retired and moved to Salmon Idaho. Good chance that engine went down the line when I was working.
John Wolf how cool, can you comment more about the paper gasket thing? I had never heard of that before
Man I think you got the coolest job in the world. What more can a man ask for doing what he loves every day.
A big crankshaft with a flywheel base makes a great mail box post , put a 1 connecting rod on to hold the house number and install mail box on top . They hit that they may tear up your box but you may tear up there stuff too . That’s what a Concrete company in Raleigh , NC use and they fixed people from hitting there mail box and Post !
Thank you for doing the detective work. I like seeing and determining problems and potential problems. Excellent video Jeff.
I bought a 3406-B out of an 1983 359 PETERBILT that had never been rebuilt it had only 600,000 miles on it. The truck had an aluminum frame and it had been broken and sold to a junk yard. I rebuilt it and it runs great, so i feel you joy.
Love learning about all the little differences between these engines and what trucks and equipment they were in! Thanks for all the great knowledge!
That paint on the inside of the block is to improve oil flow back into the pan. The name brand of it is glyptal I believe.
Chuck Wilson
Silsbee Tx
Very interesting, it also seals porous castings to stop them leaking.
I’ve only seen it in red to but I just did a little innerweb searching and they used to use zinc chromate which is yellow and turns brown over time.
Great content and I love the humour. Flying hydraulic press and damper, awesome
My boss and I found an issue with the rear wear sleeve for the crankshaft seal for D343's . Ive installed many in the field and in the shop. About 4 years ago i noticed a pretty good leak from the rear seal of a 343 (i just built) that was on the engine Dyno at Modern Machine in washington. It was a full load 4 hour dyno so I let it drip/sling till the test was over. After the engine was back at the shop, I carefully disassembled the parts to see what I F'd up. Everything looked perfect until I looked very carefully at the CAT wear sleeve (from dealer). It had a groove like a record. It was like a hydrodynamic action but it screwed the oil out of the seal. I took it to the dealer and found ALL 10 on the shelf were exactly the same. Then we had a couple redo's on seals previously installed around the same year or so, that were leaking as well. I found some older wear rings deep in the metal dumpster and inspected them...no groove at all. The dealer didnt really care and said theyd replace if they failed, but thats a lot of work to roll the dice on if it leaks! So my boss had a machine shop make us 50 wear sleeves that were smooth as a baby's butt. We didnt have another seal failure after that. These were marine engines and I dont know the difference of all that brake saver, dirt mechanic, weird stuff, but Cat definitely has a stock of flawed D343 wear sleeves in their dealer warehouses - just to let anyone know that may be installing them. I guess i coulda told that story in less words but oh well. If anyone reading this has the same issue, Radtke Marine in Seattle Washington has some of those machined sleeves on the shelf.
Thanks for the rack info Jeff. I'll have to watch again to make sure I get the rear main seal right. I'm putting the head on tomorrow. Mine is 65B3250 out of a 72 Brockway. You are a wealth of knowledge...
Long time ago in my misbegotten youth i worked for cat and million mile untouched 1693s were not unusual
I learned more about a 1693 in this video than I thought I ever knew.. Really good job on all the differences sir!
Hey Jeff that mailbox isn’t too bad. I have the same job but in a different state; and I am all by my self in the truck. Over my career I lost count of how many I damaged or destroyed. None were intentional just the heavy wet snow or a loss of concentration during the storm. Glad you got it fixed. Enjoy your videos and look forward to new ones as they come. Take care.
Good video. I'm not sure if it's a good thing or a bad thing that you found a 50 year old virgin 😁
All the same in the Dark ?
I drove a 1974 Kenworth W900 many miles with a 1693 425 engine. My truck was the lowboy truck and we had the engine turned up a bit. I would guess it was making around 500 horsepower. Turbo lag was huge with these engines. Once you learned how to deal with it, you had a real powerhouse.
I used to drive a 1974 KW cabover with 1683, which was the 375 Horsepower. When I was stationed at Galena Air Force Station Alaska, they had P4 firetruck equipment as fire protection for the Airport. These P4's had the 1693 CAT engines, and they were rated 425 Horsepower according to the Technical Order we had for repair guidance.
And the Oshkosh roll over plows had 1693's or 3406's that replaced the gas Hall Scotts.
Sad that it was run with maybe no oil in the first place bro but glad you are giving it a new life. All the best from a hot muggy NZ
That engine was in the old KW Cabover I drove back in the early 70's
The slow mo of the second use of porta power sounded like an M1 Garand emptying its clip lol
Great piece of virgin old iron. Thanks for pointing out all of the details and date codes. Nice work.
Amazing to see opening up some engine history... great stuff... thanks...
Re “If they had not junked it I would not own it” 19:14, that about sums up all the best automotive purchases, one man’s junk is another man’s treasure, the only time one gets a good deal is when others consider what they are selling to be junk.
Glad to see the mail box back up and running. Looks Purdy.
I just found your channel and have been binge watching your vids. Really good stuff! Thanks.
What a great video Jeff and that's hard to believe that nobody's ever been in that engine your correct that is definitely hard to believe you violated it that had to make you feel good from Fort Mitchell Alabama
Awesome mate.
When i worked od a dredge we had 4 D379s and 2 3306s and a 3304 I loved then as very easy to work on and reliable.
Cheers Rory
my 65B in my Peterbilt 352 is Sept 1971 truck 65B2671, appreciate your knowledge on these
Likely that micrometer got dropped and bent to throw it out of whack. you need something accurate square within the width it measures to verify that the ends are exactly parallel to each other still. If it is bent it won't be and it will always read bad. Normally you rotate the barrel to get it to read right but that won't make up for a .025" error. I am not sure if there is another way to adjust that Lufkin one. I am not familiar with exactly how that brand is made.
If you *really* wanted that crank, you could spray-weld it and re-grind it. Might ought to cosmolene and store it. Could be handy on down the road.
Good evening Jeff, thank you for the video and information. Take care and catch you next time 👍😎🇬🇧.
If you need a seal made or desgined Jeff. Again that's another part of industrial pump repair & install. Seals have become some highly specialized components.
Pretty cool "time capsule" there in that motor...
You need some standards to set a micrometer and usually a special wrench to unlock to nut that keeps it from moving. A zero to one inch doesn't need one, but all the other sizes do. Using a caliper is pretty hard to get closer than .001 because they are so easy to spring a little with thumb pressure.
Jeff.. making a swinging mail box pole requires a 10' length of 2" electrical conduit.. Two 2" 90 degree elbows.. FIVE 2" Couplings. a piece of ABS or PVC pipe about 18" long that will slip over the outside of the conduit, a glue on pipe cap for the ABS or PVC.. .. a 5 gallon bucket.. 2 bags of redi crete post hole mix.. put the cap on the plastic piece.. lay it at an angle in the bucket.. put the redi crete in dry for now.. you will want to cut the 10' piece of conduit in half.. stick the end of a 5' conduit into the plastic pipe so its still leaning.. add an elbow to the top.. add another elbow to that elbow. .using couplings.. twist this assembly sideways so you can level the second elbow.. a coupling and another 5 foot piece of conduit.. you will need to support this.. or just hold on to it.. now you have a pole that you can mount your mail box too. perhaps welding it to the fifth conduit coupling.. ... if you like this swinging set up.. you can pour water on the redi create fence pole mix to get it to cure.. holding the plastic pipe in at an angle... when it cured.. bury the 5 gallon bucket so the pole aims across the road.. insert your 5' section.. the 2 elbows and couplings.. the 5 foot horizontal piece may need to be shortened to get the mail box in the proper spot.. the elbows and couplings adjusted. so you now have a swing away and swing return to center mail box support. you may only want a 10 or 15 degree angle on the plastic pipe in the redicrete.. so you might want to experiment before you water it.. its also easily adjustable with a single screwdriver.. or easily replaced if somebody really hits it.. i made one for my mom.. she wanted to put a 200+ pound rototiller out there as a mail box stand. i explained you can't put that much mass that close to the state highway edge.. if somebody hits it they could be killed.. now if somebody whacks your swinging mail box.. they are just likely to end up with a broken tail light for some some unexplained reason.. as what comes around.. goes around.. and if the snow plow hits it.. its going to spin around..
Hey paydirt good video, love hearing about theses old engines keep up the gods work.
Cat history period. Jay I love your patient tutorial style speak damn good teacher. Geez I sound like a groupie. You need a chute system for that mailbox lol
To bad the crank is in ruff shape. Nice find getting a virgin block to rebuild.
I'm thinking you screw the cap off the back of the micrometer and there is a screw that loosens the thimble so it can be adjusted to line up properly with the markings on the barrel. Or maybe you found that out already.
Jeff I'd give you a hand , It's gonna take me a couple days to get there , From NY and all (Catskills) not liberal land NYC
Jeff Rookyard
Jeff, I enjoy your videos, good to see good old gear being well maintained. I always learn something watching what you do. To see the really big trucks in Australia you will have to go to western Queensland or the Northern Territory or Western Australia. Our autumn (Easter) is the nicest weather. Yours in old grease, Jeff. Bowral NSW Australia.
Never seen a sledge in the Caterpillar service manual! Sure hope no damage to the piston or the liner. If so MORTON SELL MORE A SHORT WAY AWAY
That crank would make an awesome pub table stand.I’ve made a couples em.
Hello, in the past I have put bushings in dry ice then insert with no problem, your thoughts.
Super neat old motor, I was thinking about putting one in a Mack with the 6 spd and #55,000 rears
i got a 1693 in an old oshkosh truck with 11,000 original miles runs really good
Lovely compressor, Jeff. Never a lack of cfm.
All those lock tabs bring back unfold memories
Hey Jeff how about you take that 1693 crankshaft and use it for a post for your mailbox , I would expect you to paint it yellow of course .
There's not many video's i've found on these engs. Glad we have you! & Have you ever owned, Worked on or Operated a Truck with the Infamous 3408?
I had the 3408 cat in my 84 pete conv. Got almost 4mpg and burned oil, but it ran over 100 easy. But cost a fortune to keep running. Thats it in my picture to the left, light blue.
@@hogcat858 Dang. Yeah,I heard a lot about them burnning Gallons of Oil But Being able to outrun the Po-pos or whoever. I Agree wit h the fact they where very expensive to keep running.
There are tons of 3408's still running in boats on the West coast. Many of them are prechambered even. A popular commercial fishing boat -The Delta 58' came with 3408's for the Main Engine. Theyre in boats at marinas all over Alaska/Ore./Wa especially. As popular as the 3412 (if not more) in the marine/generator world.
It's known as NUMERALKOD. You'll find it on most Cat castings and some parts of a certain age.
I really like the brake saver on a 1693 a lot better than I like a jake brake system.
Very interesting watching you tear down these engines and give us all a lesson on what to do and not to do. I’ve only rebuild gas engines but when the crank in my 460 was pooched I was able to have it cut and put oversized bearings in, is that a possibility or is that generally done in gas engines or just a lack of oversized bearings in 1693s?
22.11.72 - maybe that's what your local snowplough driver was thinking about when he went past your gate.
Does the G in the square on the bearing shell signify it was a Glacier bearings product?
Beats me steve
Steve Hill The G designates that those journals and bearings will fit the D343, G343,769,769B etc.
Back in 70's when I was driving I was running with a guy in a Pete conventional he bought used and it had a Cat 325hp and he said it pulled really good. I wonder if this is same motor.
Jeff
Seems to me that that crank could be saved. I watched a video where they weld everything up then turn it back to Standard Standard. The guy said it was a bit pricey but when you need a obsolete part. Just throwing it out there.🤔
got some more engines with cranks, I'll tear down another one I guess
Welding a crank is an absolute no no unless you just plan to start it up and let it idle every now and again. The damage done when a crank lets go is just not worth it, I'd run an old scoured crank with new bearings if I had to on a restoration but never on an engine that someone relys on to make a living.
@@michaelbrown8545
I wasn't talking about Billy Bob setting down with a miller bobcat and doing the work .
I saw a video of a company that specializes in fixing hard to find or replace crankshafts. They did all sorts of metallurgy checking and heat treatment on thier work after repairs.
The party never ends! Thanks for the knowledge
As far as the micrometer, there is always a way to zero them out. The dead end may have a set screw, or like you said, you remove the cap and with the micrometer closed and should read zero you adjust it to read zero.
You use what is called a standard to calibrate a micrometer. If you have a 2-3 mic the standard is ground to 2”. If you close then mic on the standard and the zero is off you use a special spanner wrench to adjust the barrel to make them line up.
Dane Berset my mic came with a standard.. I should probably double check it’s still in spec
Man! I couid no more sit on my knees on concrete like that than the man in the moon. Good on ya Jeff !1 Todd the retired trucker.
Hey, Jeff. FYI, UA-cam asked me my opinion of this video, and I gave it five stars. So they'll probably recommend you to more people, I think.....
Thanks Bill
It’s true, there’s another rising channel called Bruce Wilson, who is restoring a cabover, so it’s likely they will recommend these videos to his subscribers.
I follow a few heavy diesel guys but I imagine that’s why it was recommended to me.
So I’m rebuilding a 1693 that’s in a 72 kw is there anything I will need to keep an eye out for? I only have about 2 years in the Diesle tech field so I don’t know much about these old engines so any advice would b wonderful. Thanks in advance
Stay tuned trenton, lot's of info to come
My buddy repairs calipers and all machine tools. Western Precision, Mesa, AZ
Hi what’s a rebuildable core engine like that worth and how much does it cost to be rebuilt by a machine shop meaning engine alone without install.?
Is the crankshaft in the 1693 shot peened , like the D343 ?
At what point do you scrap a crank? Can you undercut and build them back up? It would be interesting to see a crank shop.
That numerical code is on your 9 too. I've never seen the k before on earlier castings it's a "C" if I remember right.
Good Night my Friend Jeff.
That hydraulic puller is the only way to go. 👍
Nothin but the best on this channel folks!; and to get to watch the Boss Man be charged up about the first surgical procedure on that ole girl makes me smile while freezin!! 😳😳😳👍grr im over winter!! Best channel on the lube tube! Period!!! 🤘
Love the slow mo!
Love the piston removal tool ,I have one too . LOL
That is amazing engine you to be the first to give it a workover !! what are you going to make it ? 500 to the Ground ? Ole Kenny will smile with that though a Double over 5 X 4 !
Enjoy all your videos 😻
How do you heat your shop Jeff? Those new LED lights really illuminate the shop. I'm surprised the condition of the crank.
Great and informative video Jeff! I think you must be rubbing off on Chris, first he rents a Cat long reach and today was on a new 320G.
The Cat Codex also used a "C" instead of the "K"
Cat Codex = Numeral Cod (e)
N=0
U=1
M=2
E=3
R=4
A=5
L=6
C/K=7
O=8
D=9
saludos desde culiacan
How do you pull the pump on these 1693 cats? I'm trying to take off the injection pump/ lift pump and I belive I've got all the bolts out looking for some tips
There's 4 - 3/8 bolts that go thru the pump body and into the block, then some 5/16 bolts that attach it to the drive housing, it should come off quite easy from there, now if you want to remove the whole thing, pump and drive together, undo the 3/8 bolts and nuts that attach the housing to the rear housing and the four 3/8 bolts thru the pump to block, really need a service truck for that, because it heavy!
@@Jpaydirt thank you I'll check again if I missed any bolts I got the injection pump off just need to take off the drive into from the gear case to the injection pump. I believe I got them all but it acts like I missed one next to the block side or is seized on
no ridge reamer in the shop?
No, my biggest issue was the rust way down the bore
Hi Jeff Love all your videos, very informative and funny !!! Old Kenny is Awesome. I've got 2012 T909 ISX 600hp Kenworth and would not trade it for anything, All the best from Tasmania Australia
you need what is called a "standard" to set that micrometer. and also a spanner wrench to adjust it.
I built many of those engines and but I never went about it like that... And I never will...
Not building Larry, tearing it down for the block, what did I do wrong
Larry Spicer tear down and rebuild are two different animals.
Suspect Larry near had a heart atack when Jeff layed into the pistons with the 14 pounder as well as letting the rods drop as the crank fell out and not numbering anything. Personally I would have taken the time to salvage that iron as there is always someone out there with worse bits to replace. This old iron is precious, they just dont make it anymore.😉
@@michaelbrown8545 I layed out the mains in order and put them back on the block in order as they are not numbered, the rods are salvagable and numbered, but since I didn't have 5 hands to hold them I let em drop, don't think it hurt them any, I did have the bolts out so they didn't hit and damage the threads, don't know how I would have got the pistons out with out knocking them down the hole first to break loose the rust and then grind it out. not sure yet what Larry is cranky about, get it? cranky LOL
@@Jpaydirt G'day Jeff, mate honestly I don't have a problem it's your engine. I was just pulling Larrys chain 😁👍✌
You should put your mail box on a half berried scraper tire. See if they can plow that. You know it is made of rubber for safety.
That Micrometer looks lie its from the USAAF, United States Army Air Force that would be from the 1940's? Have your favorite machine shop check/calibrate it with one of their standards.
Crank shaft mail box???
In the date code decoder I see "NUMERALKOD" as in numeral code. Maybe coincidence...maybe not.
I didn't notice that until someone pointed it out, makes sense numeralkod is German?
Good evening sir, why have you condemned the original engine block out of Old Kenny? Has it just been decked too many times? Also can the crank from Old Kenny or the donor 1693 not be ground undersized and reused? Or is the problem that undersized bearings aren't available? Really enjoy the engine videos. For the numbering system, the letters spell out NUMERALKOD or "numeral code" that method of date coding items goes way way back with Cat, to at least the 1930s, not sure why they didn't just use numbers, but that's what the cipher spells out.
so the original block has over 2 million miles on it, a lot of them at some extreme power levels, the mains were moving in the block so it would need bored, the deck has been milled once, and the lower and upper bores would probably need repaired, so i just looked at it from the money aspect and said it might be better to go get a block that has been at 325hp all it's life and not ever been machined yet and I think I found a real gem with this one
@@Jpaydirt thank you for answering my inquiry. I watched the teardown and was under the impression that it was only torn down due to the broken valve / heat button. Absolutely makes sense to use a better foundation if one is available. As for the crank out of the 325, can it be reground? Or is the preferred solution to find a good used standard crank?
Are you still going to do all the coatings on the parts? So is a 1693 a 16L ?
14.6 liters it's 893 cu same as 3406 and yes would love to do the coatings
I’m surprised you didnt rebuild that mail box with an I beam and some ar500 steel...
cool repair
how can find your book ?
thanks
www.amazon.com/s?k=old+kenny+coloring+book&ref=nb_sb_noss
Gally is a kitchen on a boat. Gallery is a passage with branches, my dad always corrected me on this
Thanks for the video.
CAT doctor got his hands on ..on an virgin Cat engine...finally..!!
Jeff I guess I missed the video or the memo, but what you gonna do with the 1693 that I assume you are trying to build?? Thanks for the video's ....Jack Baker
Restore my 81 KW A model
Old Kenny coming back to life soon.
What all did 1693 come in jest wondering
Do you have any scraper OP jobs going from the uk
After 15hrs of continuous use your air compressor finally kicked on lol
If we did that to a mailbox in the county i work in we would get a butt chewing then we would have to fix it.