I agree with you. It kills me that all guitar pedals use center negative. I was hoping you would take it all the way apart. I have to change a master volume pot in mine. I just like to watch someone else take it apart first so I know what I am getting into. Those burn Mark's are from the factory. Mine has those also. I'm probaly gonna have to reflow some solder in a couple places also. Good pedal though. I just dread doing it. Thay pedla will work off a 150mah 9 volt though. You would think it woild be more. My digitechs use 1.4 amps. Crazy huh. Good video. I like how you explain and show things. I even picked up a trick or two and that is saying something. But you remind me of myself. Welp, I guess I will go buy this potentiometer. I got the pedal off ebay. Dude never said the master volume knob was broke off. Just said it had a few scratches Hahahaha still, I can fix it. Enjoyed the vid..
I'm surprized how my older videos are gaining traction recently. I don't own this one and it went back to owner right after video but If I see another I'll do a full teardown. I mostly didn't want to undo all those nuts and dials.
I think the stand offs welds just look like that out of the factory. I have one at home I’m working on. I’m not QUITE as amateur as whoever worked on that on though.
I would be inclined to agree actually. Originally I thought it had been painted and the standoffs added later, but when I looked closer after the fact, I realize it was galvanized then the standoffs were added, then the outside looks to have been powder coated. With the kind of stuff I see, anything is possible though lol.
I got a jack stuck in the port of this effects pedal, literally just the tip of the cord's head is in there. So I need to remove and somehow replace or be able to remove it from the port. Any ideas?
Most of those sockets are open-frame style, in that it's pretty easy to get to once you open the unit. if you aren't keen on doing that you could try heating the top of a hot glue stick and shoving it down the socket and then let it cool. if you are really lucky it might bond to the detached part, but in my experience, things are not often how you would imagine. I'd open the unit, and have a look.
HI I have a ME 50, Im having problems when I step on the pedal switches to turn on and off the different effects, I have to try few times in order fot the switch to work, I wonder if I can unscrew the pedals and access the switch underneath to ether clean it with some kind of contact cleaner or replace every switch. my question is how do I gain access to the switch underneath the pedals to do that, there are and little screw on the each side of each pedals but Im not sure if by unscrewing those will get me access to the switch underneath, or do I need to open the whole pedal board or take it apart , any help would be really appreciated!
My experience with these extends only to the one shown in the video, but looking at the design, it's likely that the switch is soldered direct to the board. If that's the case, you will likely need to strip it down to almost nothing. However, I'd suggest opening the back first, and have a look at how it's made. Many pedals use a microswitch that can be removed by disassembling the mechanisim, and are cheap to replace. Just be gentle, and keep close track of your screws.
Man, could you please help me here? My BOSS ME 70 and her power supply stop working suddenly. After that, I tested her with a new original power supply but now the ME-70 is doing a high high noise. A very strong sizzle, and it's only that sound, even if I play the guitar. Do you have any idea how to fix it? Thanks in advance. Greetings from Brazil!
if the new power supply is unfiltered or is a noisy switchmode supply that can introduce noise. If the old supply broke as a result of a power spike or surge, it could have damaged the unit. Typically however, audio noise is often a result of poor grounding, and/or poor audio isolation. beyond that there isn't much I can suggest based on that comment alone.
Goodday Sir I'm jeff from the Philippines, I have question I lost my power supply on my boss ME50. Is it OK if I buy any 9volts power supply? Or it requires a specific milli amp? Please guide me thank you
I'm having an issue with my ME-50. There is no sound when I turn it on. The volume pedal is up and it's not in memory mode or anything. It was working fine last night and today it's not working at all. I tried changing cables but no luck, they all work. Tried a factory reset and that didn't fix things either...
I'm not an expert on these, but I could summise that either the amplifier stage has blown, or that there is a worn out trim pot in there. if you work the master volume controls from min to max while plugged into an amp - you will hear crackling and intermittent contact if this is the case. fuses and power packs are also the other place to check. Often these use reverse polarised packs, and get accidentally plugged into the wrong pack, causing fairly serious damage.
Hello my Friend.how do you do and how is your family. Ok please help me to fix my pédale problem.it is showing "bt "on the screen. I'm using et safe 9 volt adaptor...
help. my me-50 has a weird issue. several of the knobs (reverb, drive, delay etc) are not selecting the setting properly. it won't select some of the settings ie when you choose mt2 it calls it up, but when you switch it over to the next setting (scream) nothing changes. it stays on mt2. this new, along with the many of the other features. I took the whole thing apart (taking off all 40 knobs etc.) and forced contact cleaner through one of the pots and it made no difference at all. I know it got into the pot because it changed from a nice greased feel to a very dry click between detents. I used a rubber tubing and a drill bit to force the pressure through the pot. no change. what the heck has happened to this unit? it worked perfectly. all of the issues seemed to happen all at once. to my thinking it's something in the way the computer is processing the messages from the pots, not several pots getting dirty at the same time (which would make no sense). the standoffs come like that from the factory. thanks!
Yes a few people have mentioned the standoffs to me - I have been told they use a spot-welder to attach them. As for your issues, I would look for dry solder joins around the pots, and look at the grounding tracks - if one ground connection is compromised, it can affect a whole group of controls. Post that are directly attached to the board can be some of the highest stressed solder joins, and can over time become fatigued and cracked. some rom's have a fixed memory lifespan (as short as 10-15 years in some cases) so it can be that the senility is down to that. one other more likely scenario is electrolytic capacitors dying. Look for bulges on the top of the cap, and corrosion around the legs and base. with the pots, some contact cleaners are not plastic safe, and can dissolve the plastic wiper arm inside the pot. In some cases the solvents can wash the carbon layer off the track in the pot. If it has detents, it's probably a rotary switch, in which case you should be fine - they will have many legs as opposed to just 3 on a trim pot. I hope this helps - it's hard to know without looking at these things sometimes.
The Aussie Repair Guy thanks! I’m using deoxit d5. Seems like the good stuff. Anyway, these came out in 2002, so it could easily be 10-15 years old. I think I may have left it on for a few months when I wasn’t using it. I’ll hit a few suspicious solder points with the iron, but nothing really looks weird. I appreciate you’re advice!
The multi-point selector pots go faulty I'm afraid - the actual resistive element within the pot becomes aged/damaged and stops providing the required resistance for proper functioning. No amount of cleaning will fix this and so it's either a new pot, or replacement of the resistive element (if you're keen!). My faulty pot was totally shot, reading as 'open' on some of the positions. BTW you can test this using the 'test mode' for the ME-50 which is described in the service manual, which can be found online. The pot is obviously very specific in terms of its function, resistance and dimensions so realistically needs to be Roland Boss sourced. I'm trying to get a replacement at the moment, will let you know how that goes, if you're still interested. Really hoping my ME-50 isn't BER as it's such a versatile unit.
@@princepugh7683 I’m very interested. I will look for the test mode. Fascinating. I’m still puzzled by how several of these rotary selectors went bad at the same time and with such precision. Maybe 6 of them skip settings. Always the same settings on each knob too. And it’s not getting worse. Could one selector go bad and throw off the way 5 others function? Some sort of cascading effect? Please Let me know the details on sourcing new “pots.” If it fixes the problem, price, etc. I’ll look for test mode - thanks! Maybe I’ll try desoldering a “pot” that’s not functioning and test the lugs with a meter. Or can it be tested will still on the board. Time to find the test mode from the service manual. Thanks again.
@@caseykittel OK, it seems there are two way to go with this repair:- 1) Inexpensive but laborious; 2) Simple but expensive So, for reference, the potentiometer is a single gang 50k linear 11 'detent' (steps) vertical mount 9mm unit manufactured by 'Alpha' of Taiwan - part code in the service manual. I've been unable to find this for sale on the open market but it is available from Roland Boss for £10 per piece, however, you can't go direct to Roland as a consumer and have to go to an authorised agent, i.e. guitar shop or electronics dealer etc. which means you need to find somebody who can be bothered to contact Roland and order the parts up for you, without any real profit. Luckily I know an amp technician who has been able to source these for me but my local (approved) shop have been absolutely useless. With the genuine Roland Boss part, it's just a matter of a direct swap - the old pot comes off the board fairly easily with patience and braid/suck - a few tips at the bottom for soldering the new on back in place. If you can't get hold of the genuine part from Roland then it is possible to cobble together a replacement using a very similar pot as a donor for parts but this is VERY fiddly and VERY time consuming. As a donor, I used an Alpha 50k Linear 9mm vertical mount pot (which has very similar specs and dimensions, apart from the 'detent' step and shaft). These units cost around £2 a piece and are widely available, search for Alpha RD901F 50K. - green plastic and metal shaft. Disassemble both new and old pots as follows:- 1) With pot on the bench, flip it upside down, then carefully drill or file the two pin heads away which hold the metallic base in position. Take your time, only take away enough material to free the base. 2) The units should now completely disassemble - be sure to keep each pot and it's bits separate at this point. 3) From the new pot you can discard the shaft and metal housing 4) From the old pot you need to remove and keep the circular 'wiper' which sits in the green box, on top of the circular resistive element. 5) In the new pot green box, swap the new wiper out for the old wiper 6) Be careful to line everything up properly then carefully reassemble and mate up with the old shaft 7) At this point you should get your multi-meter and test to see you've got stepped resistance from 0 to around 50k ohms. 8) Carefully superglue the sections back together - glue from the outside - don't pour the glue on, just wipe it on sparingly 9) Dab a bit of glue on the pin heads to secure the whole thing then test again to make sure it's all still working. I've done this one one of my faulty pots and it works but I'm going to put genuine pots in the other two just in-case the hybrid unit goes faulty. But even with the new parts, it means my ME-50 is not beyond economical repair, at least not as a home repair. Soldering back onto the board:- 1) Clean the pads up as best you can without damaging - remove the older solder with braid. Clean up with alcohol. Make sure the pot legs are properly aligned and put into position on the board. 2) Solder in the two support legs first - the pads take solder really well but just go steady; 3) Now move onto the three contact legs - you need a steady hand, patience and a magnifying glass to do this properly. Again the pads take solder nicely but don't overdo it or you'll short the contacts on the board. I used leaded solder on the basis that I had clean pads and contacts - modern decent lead free should be fine. It should just work out of the box but you can test it using the Test Mode described in the service manual. Hope that's useful, sorry if it's too much detail - if you want pics I can post them on my channel.
@@TheAussieRepairGuy Hi, I got it sorted. I had to take out the board which meant removing over 70 nuts,screws, washers and knobs!!! Cleaned up between tracks on cct board etc and lo and behold it started working again. ( Like in your vid, the digit didn't light up, but after reading the manual you need to go into preset mode and then it lights up. Thanks for inspiring me to keep at it as I thought it was destined for the junk pile. That would have been a shame as its a very good pedal. Cheers Trev ( Northern Ireland)
Hi I have a boss Me50 that flashes a letter b. (or a number 6) many reports that this is a low battery. but Im using an ac adapter (boss) and I also put new batteries and it flashes. In manual mode all the effects are working well. when I go into memory mode one can not tell which bank your in due to the flashing *b*. I took out the board and cleaned it and between the pins of all chips. the presets are changing but it is not showing a bank number due to the flashing *b*. I have taken it apart and a pedal repair shop tried by replacing a chip (which I have in a envelop) I use it in the manual mode just fine. i wonder if anyone has had to repair the low voltage warning circut? ive put i in reset mode and when through the manual step by step reset. welcome any ideas
I'm no expert the the use of these units - however a few ideas come to mind - voltage drop in power cable - if the cable is thin, or if the power supply not outputting the correct voltage, due to damage or malfunction. It could be that there is a component failure that is pulling the system voltage low - or a faulty audio cable attached that it short circuit. Another possibility is that the code you are seeing displayed might not be a flat battery warning, but instead another error.
I did a little research, and officially the flashing b does seem to mean low battery. Keep in mind rehcargable AA batteries are 1.2v and alkalines are 1.5v each. using rechargables will show as flat. I also found the user manual that may shed some light on it too: static.roland.com/assets/media/pdf/ME-50_OM.pdf
thanks, i have that and a shop manual that has scope settings and more. Its a baffle. I understand the battery type and effects. I feel theres a ground broke on one of the leads. But other than a mystery that will remain as such iv move on to ipad based effects
@@alansmollen well if you have a broken ground lead on the battery bay, it may be trying to get a return path through a semiconductor or some other component that's causing a voltage drop - and it would see that as flat batteries
@@TheAussieRepairGuyI'm grateful for your support and help. I should just support recycling with this beautiful blue unit. But as you know, it's a simple explanation.... To someone. But is it worth it...I have time these corona days... Pondering. Soon to be pandering?
I agree with you. It kills me that all guitar pedals use center negative. I was hoping you would take it all the way apart. I have to change a master volume pot in mine. I just like to watch someone else take it apart first so I know what I am getting into. Those burn Mark's are from the factory. Mine has those also. I'm probaly gonna have to reflow some solder in a couple places also. Good pedal though. I just dread doing it. Thay pedla will work off a 150mah 9 volt though. You would think it woild be more. My digitechs use 1.4 amps. Crazy huh. Good video. I like how you explain and show things. I even picked up a trick or two and that is saying something. But you remind me of myself. Welp, I guess I will go buy this potentiometer. I got the pedal off ebay. Dude never said the master volume knob was broke off. Just said it had a few scratches
Hahahaha still, I can fix it. Enjoyed the vid..
I'm surprized how my older videos are gaining traction recently.
I don't own this one and it went back to owner right after video but If I see another I'll do a full teardown. I mostly didn't want to undo all those nuts and dials.
I think the stand offs welds just look like that out of the factory. I have one at home I’m working on. I’m not QUITE as amateur as whoever worked on that on though.
I would be inclined to agree actually.
Originally I thought it had been painted and the standoffs added later, but when I looked closer after the fact, I realize it was galvanized then the standoffs were added, then the outside looks to have been powder coated.
With the kind of stuff I see, anything is possible though lol.
I got a jack stuck in the port of this effects pedal, literally just the tip of the cord's head is in there. So I need to remove and somehow replace or be able to remove it from the port.
Any ideas?
Most of those sockets are open-frame style, in that it's pretty easy to get to once you open the unit.
if you aren't keen on doing that you could try heating the top of a hot glue stick and shoving it down the socket and then let it cool. if you are really lucky it might bond to the detached part, but in my experience, things are not often how you would imagine.
I'd open the unit, and have a look.
HI I have a ME 50, Im having problems when I step on the pedal switches to turn on and off the different effects, I have to try few times in order fot the switch to work, I wonder if I can unscrew the pedals and access the switch underneath to ether clean it with some kind of contact cleaner or replace every switch. my question is how do I gain access to the switch underneath the pedals to do that, there are and little screw on the each side of each pedals but Im not sure if by unscrewing those will get me access to the switch underneath, or do I need to open the whole pedal board or take it apart , any help would be really appreciated!
My experience with these extends only to the one shown in the video, but looking at the design, it's likely that the switch is soldered direct to the board. If that's the case, you will likely need to strip it down to almost nothing.
However, I'd suggest opening the back first, and have a look at how it's made. Many pedals use a microswitch that can be removed by disassembling the mechanisim, and are cheap to replace.
Just be gentle, and keep close track of your screws.
Sir, just ask if where can i buy ic #(Roland ESC R04010990) for boss me-25...we don't have it here in the philippines..just asking..
You could probably try these guys:
www.veswin.com/product-R04010990.html
Man, could you please help me here?
My BOSS ME 70 and her power supply stop working suddenly.
After that, I tested her with a new original power supply but now the ME-70 is doing a high high noise. A very strong sizzle, and it's only that sound, even if I play the guitar.
Do you have any idea how to fix it?
Thanks in advance.
Greetings from Brazil!
if the new power supply is unfiltered or is a noisy switchmode supply that can introduce noise.
If the old supply broke as a result of a power spike or surge, it could have damaged the unit.
Typically however, audio noise is often a result of poor grounding, and/or poor audio isolation.
beyond that there isn't much I can suggest based on that comment alone.
Goodday Sir I'm jeff from the Philippines, I have question I lost my power supply on my boss ME50. Is it OK if I buy any 9volts power supply? Or it requires a specific milli amp? Please guide me thank you
You will need about 1.5 amp, and check that the plug is correctly polarized. Many of these units use center-negative.
I'm having an issue with my ME-50. There is no sound when I turn it on. The volume pedal is up and it's not in memory mode or anything. It was working fine last night and today it's not working at all. I tried changing cables but no luck, they all work. Tried a factory reset and that didn't fix things either...
I'm not an expert on these, but I could summise that either the amplifier stage has blown, or that there is a worn out trim pot in there.
if you work the master volume controls from min to max while plugged into an amp - you will hear crackling and intermittent contact if this is the case.
fuses and power packs are also the other place to check.
Often these use reverse polarised packs, and get accidentally plugged into the wrong pack, causing fairly serious damage.
@@TheAussieRepairGuy Thanks my dude, you really know your stuff! Keep on with the channel
Hello my Friend.how do you do and how is your family. Ok please help me to fix my pédale problem.it is showing "bt "on the screen. I'm using et safe 9 volt adaptor...
I'm not familiar enough with these to help I'm afraid.
help. my me-50 has a weird issue. several of the knobs (reverb, drive, delay etc) are not selecting the setting properly. it won't select some of the settings ie when you choose mt2 it calls it up, but when you switch it over to the next setting (scream) nothing changes. it stays on mt2. this new, along with the many of the other features. I took the whole thing apart (taking off all 40 knobs etc.) and forced contact cleaner through one of the pots and it made no difference at all. I know it got into the pot because it changed from a nice greased feel to a very dry click between detents. I used a rubber tubing and a drill bit to force the pressure through the pot. no change. what the heck has happened to this unit? it worked perfectly. all of the issues seemed to happen all at once. to my thinking it's something in the way the computer is processing the messages from the pots, not several pots getting dirty at the same time (which would make no sense).
the standoffs come like that from the factory.
thanks!
Yes a few people have mentioned the standoffs to me - I have been told they use a spot-welder to attach them.
As for your issues, I would look for dry solder joins around the pots, and look at the grounding tracks - if one ground connection is compromised, it can affect a whole group of controls.
Post that are directly attached to the board can be some of the highest stressed solder joins, and can over time become fatigued and cracked.
some rom's have a fixed memory lifespan (as short as 10-15 years in some cases) so it can be that the senility is down to that.
one other more likely scenario is electrolytic capacitors dying. Look for bulges on the top of the cap, and corrosion around the legs and base.
with the pots, some contact cleaners are not plastic safe, and can dissolve the plastic wiper arm inside the pot. In some cases the solvents can wash the carbon layer off the track in the pot.
If it has detents, it's probably a rotary switch, in which case you should be fine - they will have many legs as opposed to just 3 on a trim pot.
I hope this helps - it's hard to know without looking at these things sometimes.
The Aussie Repair Guy thanks! I’m using deoxit d5. Seems like the good stuff. Anyway, these came out in 2002, so it could easily be 10-15 years old. I think I may have left it on for a few months when I wasn’t using it. I’ll hit a few suspicious solder points with the iron, but nothing really looks weird.
I appreciate you’re advice!
The multi-point selector pots go faulty I'm afraid - the actual resistive element within the pot becomes aged/damaged and stops providing the required resistance for proper functioning. No amount of cleaning will fix this and so it's either a new pot, or replacement of the resistive element (if you're keen!). My faulty pot was totally shot, reading as 'open' on some of the positions. BTW you can test this using the 'test mode' for the ME-50 which is described in the service manual, which can be found online. The pot is obviously very specific in terms of its function, resistance and dimensions so realistically needs to be Roland Boss sourced. I'm trying to get a replacement at the moment, will let you know how that goes, if you're still interested. Really hoping my ME-50 isn't BER as it's such a versatile unit.
@@princepugh7683 I’m very interested. I will look for the test mode. Fascinating. I’m still puzzled by how several of these rotary selectors went bad at the same time and with such precision. Maybe 6 of them skip settings. Always the same settings on each knob too. And it’s not getting worse. Could one selector go bad and throw off the way 5 others function? Some sort of cascading effect?
Please Let me know the details on sourcing new “pots.” If it fixes the problem, price, etc.
I’ll look for test mode - thanks! Maybe I’ll try desoldering a “pot” that’s not functioning and test the lugs with a meter. Or can it be tested will still on the board. Time to find the test mode from the service manual. Thanks again.
@@caseykittel OK, it seems there are two way to go with this repair:-
1) Inexpensive but laborious;
2) Simple but expensive
So, for reference, the potentiometer is a single gang 50k linear 11 'detent' (steps) vertical mount 9mm unit manufactured by 'Alpha' of Taiwan - part code in the service manual. I've been unable to find this for sale on the open market but it is available from Roland Boss for £10 per piece, however, you can't go direct to Roland as a consumer and have to go to an authorised agent, i.e. guitar shop or electronics dealer etc. which means you need to find somebody who can be bothered to contact Roland and order the parts up for you, without any real profit. Luckily I know an amp technician who has been able to source these for me but my local (approved) shop have been absolutely useless.
With the genuine Roland Boss part, it's just a matter of a direct swap - the old pot comes off the board fairly easily with patience and braid/suck - a few tips at the bottom for soldering the new on back in place.
If you can't get hold of the genuine part from Roland then it is possible to cobble together a replacement using a very similar pot as a donor for parts but this is VERY fiddly and VERY time consuming. As a donor, I used an Alpha 50k Linear 9mm vertical mount pot (which has very similar specs and dimensions, apart from the 'detent' step and shaft). These units cost around £2 a piece and are widely available, search for Alpha RD901F 50K. - green plastic and metal shaft.
Disassemble both new and old pots as follows:-
1) With pot on the bench, flip it upside down, then carefully drill or file the two pin heads away which hold the metallic base in position. Take your time, only take away enough material to free the base.
2) The units should now completely disassemble - be sure to keep each pot and it's bits separate at this point.
3) From the new pot you can discard the shaft and metal housing
4) From the old pot you need to remove and keep the circular 'wiper' which sits in the green box, on top of the circular resistive element.
5) In the new pot green box, swap the new wiper out for the old wiper
6) Be careful to line everything up properly then carefully reassemble and mate up with the old shaft
7) At this point you should get your multi-meter and test to see you've got stepped resistance from 0 to around 50k ohms.
8) Carefully superglue the sections back together - glue from the outside - don't pour the glue on, just wipe it on sparingly
9) Dab a bit of glue on the pin heads to secure the whole thing then test again to make sure it's all still working.
I've done this one one of my faulty pots and it works but I'm going to put genuine pots in the other two just in-case the hybrid unit goes faulty. But even with the new parts, it means my ME-50 is not beyond economical repair, at least not as a home repair.
Soldering back onto the board:-
1) Clean the pads up as best you can without damaging - remove the older solder with braid. Clean up with alcohol. Make sure the pot legs are properly aligned and put into position on the board.
2) Solder in the two support legs first - the pads take solder really well but just go steady;
3) Now move onto the three contact legs - you need a steady hand, patience and a magnifying glass to do this properly. Again the pads take solder nicely but don't overdo it or you'll short the contacts on the board.
I used leaded solder on the basis that I had clean pads and contacts - modern decent lead free should be fine.
It should just work out of the box but you can test it using the Test Mode described in the service manual.
Hope that's useful, sorry if it's too much detail - if you want pics I can post them on my channel.
Did the pedal work? That led should have been showing a number, as it did when you had it temporarily connnected earlier in the video
This was so long ago, I don't recall. The owner was happy, so I assume it did.
@@TheAussieRepairGuy Hi, I got it sorted. I had to take out the board which meant removing over 70 nuts,screws, washers and knobs!!! Cleaned up between tracks on cct board etc and lo and behold it started working again. ( Like in your vid, the digit didn't light up, but after reading the manual you need to go into preset mode and then it lights up.
Thanks for inspiring me to keep at it as I thought it was destined for the junk pile. That would have been a shame as its a very good pedal.
Cheers
Trev ( Northern Ireland)
@@trevorbest-gn2dq if it was destined for junkpile, you have nothing to loose, and yes I didn't like the idea of undoing all those nuts either,
Hi
I have a boss Me50 that flashes a letter b. (or a number 6) many reports that this is a low battery. but Im using an ac adapter (boss) and I also put new batteries and it flashes. In manual mode all the effects are working well. when I go into memory mode one can not tell which bank your in due to the flashing *b*.
I took out the board and cleaned it and between the pins of all chips.
the presets are changing but it is not showing a bank number due to the flashing *b*.
I have taken it apart and a pedal repair shop tried by replacing a chip (which I have in a envelop)
I use it in the manual mode just fine. i wonder if anyone has had to repair the low voltage warning circut?
ive put i in reset mode and when through the manual step by step reset.
welcome any ideas
I'm no expert the the use of these units - however a few ideas come to mind - voltage drop in power cable - if the cable is thin, or if the power supply not outputting the correct voltage, due to damage or malfunction.
It could be that there is a component failure that is pulling the system voltage low - or a faulty audio cable attached that it short circuit.
Another possibility is that the code you are seeing displayed might not be a flat battery warning, but instead another error.
I did a little research, and officially the flashing b does seem to mean low battery.
Keep in mind rehcargable AA batteries are 1.2v and alkalines are 1.5v each. using rechargables will show as flat.
I also found the user manual that may shed some light on it too:
static.roland.com/assets/media/pdf/ME-50_OM.pdf
thanks, i have that and a shop manual that has scope settings and more.
Its a baffle.
I understand the battery type and effects.
I feel theres a ground broke on one of the leads.
But other than a mystery that will remain as such iv move on to ipad based effects
@@alansmollen well if you have a broken ground lead on the battery bay, it may be trying to get a return path through a semiconductor or some other component that's causing a voltage drop - and it would see that as flat batteries
@@TheAussieRepairGuyI'm grateful for your support and help.
I should just support recycling with this beautiful blue unit.
But as you know, it's a simple explanation.... To someone.
But is it worth it...I have time these corona days... Pondering.
Soon to be pandering?