the crankshaft and conrods are always the first to go from overtorque. Nitrous Oxide tends to create a lot more torque than any other power adder. with boost you're more likely to lift the head from over-boost. with nitrous you're more likely to snap the crankshaft
I think it's because Bruckell/Soliad has poopy gearing on their manuals and the autos often try to grab the tallest gear it can the second you back out of WOT, making them incredibly frustrating to try and drive hard.
Is it possible to keep the same configuration paired with different engines? I have a feeling that the more highly optioned cars are heavier, which is causing a discrepancy.
It is, it's in the vehicle configurator section which isn't hard to find. It would make sense to do so to remove other variables that may affect the statistics provided
the 2.5L diesel I4 can hold almost 420 lbs/ft at the crank without blowing up, maybe a little more. would say 425ft/lbs torque on the crank would be the absolute limit maybe, which is a lot for a stock production I4, even a turbo diesel. and if you;ve noticed anything, you noticed that nitrous creates waay more torque for the same hp than any other power adder, and torque is hard on the conrods and crankshaft, and tend to lead to them snapping and putting a hole through the block.
Tuning is a huge factor, adding nitrous is adding an highly oxygenated chemical into the combination situation gotta add fuel and retard timing and those engines would live longer and made more power.
This was an inaccurate representation of the older Chrysler engines. The 2.2/2.5 could go over 500 HP with bolt on parts and nitrous. The 3.8 was over 200 HP in it's last generation. They can take a 150 shot of nitrous no problem. There's a Minivan class at certain dragstrips, and there's always showroom class. Older Chryslers are fast and far stronger than this
It looks like a windstar/freestar from the back and a 3rd gen chrysler from the front and has chrysler displacement engines, I dont think beamng intended to make an exact replica of an existing minivan
@@LucasMIDI The body overall is very much in line with a 3rd Gen Grand Caravan. My mom has an '03 SE that was post-facelift and the Lansdale is very, very close to it. The only real difference is the grille on the Facelift in game.
It took me too long to realize the performance long blocks can achieve more power while the "ultra heavy duty" ones are just stronger, but ultimately I'm just disappointed in how you can't throw all the boost at the 4.4 with the stage 3 block.
as far as i know ultra heavy duty blocks also have more low end, while performance blocks rev higher with more power but dont have as much low end and as much durability.
It seems that the engines are blowing a little premature, because you hit the redline/rev. Limiter 1st, then when you shift, right as the next gear engages, the engine blows. It would be interesting to see a rerun video, of these same engine/vehicles/nitrous runs, but just shift a few hundred Rpm earlier= dont go into the redline/hit rev. Limiter. Please redue, thanks, and great/fun videos❤️👌👍
doing what you wrote would make the engine blow faster. The engine blows when there's too much torque for the engine to handle. Lower rpm/shifting earlier is bad when doing nitrous runs. It's the reason why many will make the nitrous kick in at a higher rpm range versus as low as it can.
@@GalTheJebacIts common knowledge that nitrous shouldnt be activated from the start below 2,800 to 3k Rpm, because of the reason you speak of. This is also why anyone wanting to get the most out of nitrous, uses a 3,500+Rpm Tq. converter so they can activate the Nitrous safely, but as early as possible. And reducing the timing enough is a very crucial part of taming the tq./cylinder press. to not hurt the engine. Along with enough octane, and cool enough spark plug heat range, plus getting the gap right, to not burn a piston. Nitrous gets a bad wrap from people not using it properly. I have drag raced with nitrous, with out any issues.
Hey Mustard, was wondering if you would be able to help me out, i reached out to you on your discord server i just need a little help putting the t series engine in the lansdale.
Alternate title: stealing every soccer mom’s minivan and destroying it’s engine with nitrous
dude whoever's mom ordered the 4.4 v8 is the only mom i WANT to meet.
Now that's my kind of milf
*_@AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH_*
But that about the V6s?
They’re also quite underrated. And underpowered for what they should be.
no they are just 90s american OHV v6 engines@@RailsofForney
2:52 That 2.5 really comes alive with a 70 shot! And them boom....
The 2.5 said over torque risk before the nitrous hit lol
the crankshaft and conrods are always the first to go from overtorque. Nitrous Oxide tends to create a lot more torque than any other power adder. with boost you're more likely to lift the head from over-boost. with nitrous you're more likely to snap the crankshaft
That would make sense since diesel engines are made with tougher material to withstand the pressure combustion cycles.
8:02
Of course the diesel is the toughest…that thang is quite the U N I T and has to cope with the most torque without Nitrogen Oxide Injection.
The V8 engine sounds awesome tho.
Yeah diesel engines are really tough.
It's odd how underpowered the devs made all of the models, especially the V6s. Real life 3.3/3.8 Caravans are nowhere near as bad.
I'm surprised the V6s aren't that much faster than the I4s.
I think it's because Bruckell/Soliad has poopy gearing on their manuals and the autos often try to grab the tallest gear it can the second you back out of WOT, making them incredibly frustrating to try and drive hard.
The torque just dives above 4000 rpm so the power figures are just slightly better
Don’t really care; the V6s sound awesome.
@@bubbleman2002what about sequentials? I don’t know if there’s a sequential or race auto-manual option for the Lansdale.
@@RailsofForney it has race manual and sequential options with adjustable gearing, but you're just modding at that point
6:48
Almost looks like an old Plymouth Voyager or Chrysler town and country mini van from the late 90s
Always great, but how about having the previous times up for the attempts for one car up continually? Or maybe I'm missing something?
I love the sound of a good 3.8L V6
Is it possible to keep the same configuration paired with different engines? I have a feeling that the more highly optioned cars are heavier, which is causing a discrepancy.
It is, it's in the vehicle configurator section which isn't hard to find.
It would make sense to do so to remove other variables that may affect the statistics provided
the 2.5L diesel I4 can hold almost 420 lbs/ft at the crank without blowing up, maybe a little more. would say 425ft/lbs torque on the crank would be the absolute limit maybe, which is a lot for a stock production I4, even a turbo diesel. and if you;ve noticed anything, you noticed that nitrous creates waay more torque for the same hp than any other power adder, and torque is hard on the conrods and crankshaft, and tend to lead to them snapping and putting a hole through the block.
Tuning is a huge factor, adding nitrous is adding an highly oxygenated chemical into the combination situation gotta add fuel and retard timing and those engines would live longer and made more power.
Would love to see more of the 130 shot in the v8 with forged internals and just ripping the van around
This was an inaccurate representation of the older Chrysler engines. The 2.2/2.5 could go over 500 HP with bolt on parts and nitrous. The 3.8 was over 200 HP in it's last generation. They can take a 150 shot of nitrous no problem. There's a Minivan class at certain dragstrips, and there's always showroom class. Older Chryslers are fast and far stronger than this
Wellllll… they aren’t the old Chrysler engines, just similar. One could easily mod them to be more accurate.
@@willbill808 older..80's/90's generation.. i know Mopar. The 4.4 V8 is BMW..lol..or the 60s 273
It looks like a windstar/freestar from the back and a 3rd gen chrysler from the front and has chrysler displacement engines, I dont think beamng intended to make an exact replica of an existing minivan
@@LucasMIDI The body overall is very much in line with a 3rd Gen Grand Caravan. My mom has an '03 SE that was post-facelift and the Lansdale is very, very close to it. The only real difference is the grille on the Facelift in game.
3.3/3.8 were beasts
beautiful graphics
More of these please!!!
Awesome vid bro
Good job 👍
good vids always
It took me too long to realize the performance long blocks can achieve more power while the "ultra heavy duty" ones are just stronger, but ultimately I'm just disappointed in how you can't throw all the boost at the 4.4 with the stage 3 block.
as far as i know ultra heavy duty blocks also have more low end, while performance blocks rev higher with more power but dont have as much low end and as much durability.
Another video with this van
1. i4 500hp, N/A, awd, 7k redline 6spd (adjusted) suspension, tires, 4k rpm launch control (vtec?)
2. 900hp turbo, caged, awd, 8k redline, 5spd (adjusted), suspension, slick tires, 200 shot of nitrous.
I was suprised that there is a 4.4 Liter V8 option 😂
It seems that the engines are blowing a little premature, because you hit the redline/rev. Limiter 1st, then when you shift, right as the next gear engages, the engine blows. It would be interesting to see a rerun video, of these same engine/vehicles/nitrous runs, but just shift a few hundred Rpm earlier= dont go into the redline/hit rev. Limiter. Please redue, thanks, and great/fun videos❤️👌👍
doing what you wrote would make the engine blow faster. The engine blows when there's too much torque for the engine to handle. Lower rpm/shifting earlier is bad when doing nitrous runs. It's the reason why many will make the nitrous kick in at a higher rpm range versus as low as it can.
@@GalTheJebacIts common knowledge that nitrous shouldnt be activated from the start below 2,800 to 3k Rpm, because of the reason you speak of. This is also why anyone wanting to get the most out of nitrous, uses a 3,500+Rpm Tq. converter so they can activate the Nitrous safely, but as early as possible. And reducing the timing enough is a very crucial part of taming the tq./cylinder press. to not hurt the engine. Along with enough octane, and cool enough spark plug heat range, plus getting the gap right, to not burn a piston. Nitrous gets a bad wrap from people not using it properly. I have drag raced with nitrous, with out any issues.
3:54 pov vtec was replaced by nitrous and turbo= L A G
First bro
You are the Best bro
👍👍👍
How does your speedometer move so smoothly? Mine is super rough and my pc is relatively powerful.
v8 in a van whaaa
Where are my kids?!
My honest reaction: 0:10
3:12
yes
WY DID EYE WATCH TBHIS VID
Whos mom van is this?
Nitrous wasn’t even on for the 30 shot
Hey Mustard, was wondering if you would be able to help me out, i reached out to you on your discord server i just need a little help putting the t series engine in the lansdale.
You want the engine model in it too?
@@ForgottenMustard yeah, i was just planning to have it hanging out of the front of the van, just struggling to actually get it working at the moment.
I made a bunch of 100 dummies in beamng drive. And ruined it
723 likes)
my favorite number btw
Who else jumped Evertime the motor blew up
Pin my comment please ❤