Powering Up A Dracula Pinball That's Been In The Tomb For 25 Years - Signs Of Life
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 жов 2023
- Thank you to everyone who has been supporting our channel! If you use the link below before you purchase anything on Amazon, we get a royalty for sending you there, thank you!
This is our USA Amazon Link: amzn.to/3qwgVQU
This is our UK Amazon Link: amzn.to/31aKGaC
This is our Canadian Amazon Link: amzn.to/2Ycu5RQ
This is our Australian Amazon Link: amzn.to/34UvvVl
This is our German Amazon Link: amzn.to/3hh2QgI
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
We can be reached at this email address: LyonsArcade@carolina.rr.com
Get Merchandise, T-Shirts, Mugs, and links to all the tools and parts we suggest for repairs on our website at www.LyonsArcade.com/Parts.html
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
All Music Provided by www.BenSound.com !
See all our other Machines for sale, right now, at www.LyonsArcade.com !
See My Brother Donnie's Awesome Channel at : / @mybrotherdonnie
Our store is located at 139 Caldwell St., Rock Hill, SC 29730. - Наука та технологія
Come on “people”, get that nice new fluke with fancy display running. 🔌
I absolutely love that little "hey baby" thing you do in buttheads voice when voicing dudes😂😂😂😂
Another power supply sorted out and ready to rock for another 40 years. I’ve watched you fix a lot of these now, and I almost know the procedure by heart. The machine now looks great if nothing else. Looking forward to the next exciting episode of Dracula. Don’t be scared folks- Ronnie’s got this!
Sort of funny... Whenever I hear you say "Now everything's cool", I hear in my head "Drac's a part of the band" (from The Monster Mash). It applies even more with this machine!
The only reason why other people criticize is because they have nothing better to do. You are the one with the you tube channel showing us how to work on these machines, not them. My dad was an electronics engineer and when he taught me how to solder, he would tell me the correct way was when it worked properly after it was soldered. There is no industry standard on how your solder joints should look. Great job, and I would like to tell Joe that the power board is not broke now.. lol
Thanks, I’ll make a note of that
Dracula looks like Butt-Head. “Hey Baby”
I remember hanging out at the arcade in 1975! My best friends dad owned a pinball repair and rental business. His entire basement was full of pinball, foosball and pool tables.
You forget to say hello lady's and gentlemen welcome to another pinball repair video 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
The power switch being double pole and switching both wires is used if the input voltage is 240 volts, both wires are hot in refrence to ground at 240 volts as in areas over seas.
Looks like the paint softening up from heat allowing the paint to be crushed on ball impact
Hi Ron. Another great video!
Now have everything working on my 1978 Stern (Magic). Fun game.
All I know is your soldering techniques coupled with your close ups of fractured end pin connectors, made me able to save a kilo buck power supply that had been flakey for years. ... it failed to max voltage which, needless to say, was catastrophic. IMHO you know how to solder!
Such a cool back glass
The main thing with reflowing solder is making it clean, and having a bit of new flux so the solder flows nice. As most solder has a rosin core, that is your flux to make it flow. But being clean is the key.
The high voltage bridge rectifier was made out of discrete diodes becuase it only needs low current, where something like a 1N4004/7 diode would handle the minimal power dissipation and voltage for that high voltage output, likely sub 100mA avg output.
No point in using a much more expensive bridge rectifier, and having the addeed expense of both the part, and the need for mounting it to a heatsink, including thermal grease and hardware.
The higher current, low voltage bridge rectifiers can dissipate 10's of watts, or more, as they drop 1-2 volts, at substantial current. Often in the 5-10A range.
The corrosion on the resistors is from the inside of the resistor escaping out along the wires. You should replace them. They might read the correct ohmage, but concentrate heat inside the resistor and overheat. The caps seen a bit earlier were also leaking and need replacement.
That's a thing that can happen??!? Must only happen at high voltages, I've working on plenty of 50+ year old electronics and never seen that!
@@samuelcolvin4994 I've worked on plenty of old components that were just fine as well, but some components fail when they're abused. Electrolytic caps is a good example - you'll see tons that are fine, but in some designs some particular caps are all blown after a few years use. I've seen it in old HVAC fan resistors in autos a TON.
And Ron said.......let there be light.
Another fantastic video in the books
Both the playfields look ok to me👍😉
Great Video
Awesome content ❤❤❤😊
Does saying Dracula has a heart beat cause the machine to have an existential crisis?
I have one of these.
Dracula. Perfect timing for a video like this
Very cool ron.. always learning something. Its always nice to see old thing brought back from the dead.
Love this machine
Great Video Ron
Thanks for watching!
I used to own this machine back in the 80s, very cool!
My playfield also had those dents, not as many as this one though. I came to the conclusion it was from bouncing out of the kick out holes as that is where they seemed to be the most.
Great video Ronnie, great knowledge on the cold soldering joints. This is going to be a great series. Thanks for filming Ronnie.
Good luck with your project
I approve of the transformer changes. The standard in the USA and Canada has been 120VAC 60Hz since the 60s.
Good job showing how it all starts with power beginning with the line cord. I like to test my power wiring by plugging an outlet tester into the service outlet.
Too many like to start by plugging the game into the wall first before doing any cursary inspection.
My understanding is that back in the day most electric devices with internal switches would only switch the hot. The theory was that this was sufficient to protect anyone working on its internals with it plugged in an switched off. The problem is that if any of those devices get plugged into an outlet with the hot and neutral reversed then the device switch would actually only cut the neutral and the interals would still have continuity with the hot lead, so they eventually started switching both.
The only problem with that theory is large capacitors in circuit that will hold a charge. All it takes is a complacent repair person to cross a trace to ground and will give a nice jolt. Televisions are a great example.
@@mfranzusan3014 it’s a good way to, as Ron would say, get “electro-killed.” I’ve shocked myself on 120v more than I care to admit and it always sucks. CRT voltages are fortunately something I haven’t crossed paths with!
They might have juiced up the kickers? with more volts,, to cause the paint lift looking dents from the balls. Chipping the paint on the ricochet of the ball. or possibly causing a wound on the surface, then another hit in the same spot and the paint starts to lift. Maybe some heavy heat on the play field softens the paint then it gets dented and starts to lift and tear. Crazy pattern.
Voltage varies significantly with location.
41.05 you can add some "no clean flux", it will hell alot cleanis the surfaces for a perfect joint. especialy in that lead solder, so dry and old.
Yes!!!!
Hey Ron! Just wanted to tell you that for someone that "don't know electronics" you're doing a great job! Maybe not to the specs of
a real electronics engineer, but you get to the goal eventually. I love how you and your brother keep on repairing these old "loved ones"
and keep documenting it in these videos. Especially since I'm a pinball afficianado (but I like arcades too).
All the best!
/Matt from Sweden
PS
You still haven't told me how to buy one of your cool t-shirts back in another video a couple of days ago. =)
Thanks for watching Matt!
On Shirts we ship out of the country We like to sell on ebay so we can take advantage of the global shipping program
www.ebay.com/itm/225725978232
Nice machine. I don't think I have played that one.
Or, they could have used discrete diodes to be more flexible with space and trace routing. I think one of the new board replacements just uses 16 or whatever number of diodes.
Hey Ron!!
Where's that fancy fluke?!
Sweet
Maybe rusty chipped or pitted ball cause ye Olde dents
That or somebody been trying to shoot Dracula with silver bullet egg shaped balls
Bela Lugosi approves.
"ball swirl" 😉😆
Looks like someone wired one of those switches to break the neutral/return wire as well as the live wire. Nothing wrong with that, even if it isn't strictly in accordance with the schematics. I, too, would leave it as is.
New solder has flux in it. The new flux tries to clean so that the solder will flow and connect points involved.
Just curious, did you replace or add thermal paste to the back of the bridge rectifiers?
"If thermo-paste isn't available, substitue anti-seize compound"
@@mfranzusan3014 I need to service my bally power supply but I ran out of thermo-paste on my last repair. I happen to have a large tube of anti-seize compound. Now I don't have to order and wait for the small tube of thermo past. 🥳
@@NoelRamakers saw a UA-cam or Facebook video on it a couple years ago. Apparently, it's a pretty good substitue. Does the same job, just doesn't go hard like some brands of thermo-paste
No comment on the creepy music the machine was playing?
Dents:
Maybe, the top wooden layer of the playfield, beyond the paint, is too soft by some kind of error?
Loking fine 😎👍
Ilove Noname has left the free company...
I VANT TO EAT YOUR QUARTERS!!
Could it be possible that the one that has the dents has been waxed? Whether this means that layer of wax IS the medium causing the dents, or whether it has interfered with the paint underneath causing it to soften and dent, I'm not sure. But I've seen stuff like this on guitars.
When you add something like wax or coatings, it can either thicken whatever's on the wood, and things like dings and ball travel can cause effects like denting, or cause the underlying paint to change.
Of course, the other suspicion is that the woods used in both playfields are different.
JOE CLASSIC, What is R1 100 ohm resistor doing to the bridge rectifier BR3 and what is R3 25 ohm doing to the bridge rectifier BR1? They put a resistor across the bridge rectifiers to do something
110 in Canada
I wonder if the playfield had a different brand of primer on it that was softer. Or filled in with some body filler that was softer.
Why do they need both a 7.3v and a 7.8v winding?
I've heard you complain, more than once, about the AC voltage in your building. I'm pretty sure that the transformer on the pole that feeds the building determines that voltage. And I'm pretty sure that those pole pigs can be retapped to adjust that voltage. Anyway, you might be able to call the power company and request that they send a truck out and adjust that voltage. I mean, what's the worst that could happen?
i'm not complaining, I don't mind it being 125
Vat if it bites a customer?!? Will you stake the pinball machine?
I'd be inclined to think that the paint is different, maybe softer?
That or a primer under the paint, or lastly a type of wood used in the plywood that was softer.
where is the new fluke ?
In there like swimwear..as someone once said👙
Whoever said that must be awesome
Yodelayheehoo