NEVER Use This High Current DC Circuit Breaker For Solar, Auto, or Marine!
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- Опубліковано 8 січ 2021
- See a high current DC Circuit breaker for solar, auto, or marine use that you should never use. Something you should definitely avoid. A quick follow up on my 12V LiFePO4 battery & BMS, then I perform a few tests on the high current DC circuit breaker that many people use for solar & auto applications, followed by a complete teardown. Enjoy the video!
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Thanks for saving me from disappointment! Looking forward to your next video!
You're welcome! Many more videos to follow. Looking forward to your next great testing video. Thanks for watching!
Too late for me I’m afraid.
I had a breaker like this in my boat. The thing LITERALLY lit on fire-in my bilge...near my gas tank...im lucky to be alive. Glad I clean the bingle so no oil/gas vapors, I had to cut the wires off and twist them together with the addition of 10ft of steel leader wire to handle the current
Wow. It's project farm.
Test by yourself.
Im so glad you posted this video. I have been using the same 300 amp circuit breaker in my RV and its been popping off prematurely. Thanks for the in sight.
Fantastic in depth tear down.
I remember thinking my power inverter was faulty, and couldn't understand why my grossly oversized cables were heating up. Ended up being this cheap style breaker giving me headaches.
I rarely subscribe, but I'm happy to have your channel as my third subscription.
Top quality information.
Always good to see a real breakdown of cheap components. Thanks!
Glad you liked the video Joe! Be sure to share. Thank you
20 Dollar is not cheap
Underrated video for sure
I would love to see your recommendation on an actually good breaker to use
Thanks for the teardown and analysis of this type of breaker. I have always heard bad things about them because of nuisance tripping. Good to understand why. I like the battery pack too.
Thanks for watching!
Glad you made this video, I have 2 of these breakers one on my truck amplifiers and one on my boat for the 24vdc trolling motor. I will look for the BUSS breakers right away! Thanks again!
Glad I could help! Be sure to rate thumbs up and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Doug, thanks for the PSA. I have been looking at a DC circuit breaker for a long time, but didn't want to pay a lot of money or having to deal with having extra fuses. That answers the question, an expensive breaker is cheaper than a good inverter, or fire damage.
I like these types of valuable videos.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore eNm... Have you tested the Bussmann DC circuit breakers... I see them used off grid and in the marine industry...
Measure the voltage across the breaker at different amps, all thermal breakers have differing trip times because they all have to heat up to trip. More important breakers use curves graphs to show how long to trip at differing amps.
Chinesium. Problem IMO is the small silver coated contact. U can see the arcing marks in the silver, there is arcing happening at the contact 'patch' so it isn't making contact over enough surface area, the arcing causes resistance & heat , heat opens the connection. Contacts have to be adequate size & also machined accurately so there will be enough contact area to pass full volts & amps.
I would also say that's the most likely problem. Thanks for watching!
Thanks. I had one of these in my cart to buy. I will use fuses instead for my project. Excellent video!
You're welcome! Be sure to check out my very wide range of videos and share. Thanks
I use a T Tocas Superior E9-90 that costs $26. This one has multiple S.A.E and UL certifications. It's also listed as waterproof and ignition protected. It doesn't have the subsurface lug issue and I have had no noticeable issues with it's operation nor any over-current trips even with my system cranked in freezing or hot weather. For reference, my sound system is a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12 sub-woofers powered by a Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D Prime amplifier and a RFC2D digital capacitor.
Well done! Very thorough as usual.
Glad you liked it!
I bought a couple of those years ago and never used them because I wanted to test them first. I never got around to it. Thanks for saving me the headache of either testing them myself or more likely swapping out components that didn't work properly.
No problem Brandon! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you!
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@@electronicsNmore Absolutely! I rang that Bell long ago LOL you're definitely on my top 5 UA-cam channels. In no particular order they would be AVE, Big Clive, Project Farm, ElectronicsNmore and solar by Will Prowse.
Great video. I've always wanted to see inside one. I dont use these red and black ones anymore, I use the yellow and black one.
It's going to be bigger and bigger keep up the awesome content Sir like it. 👍
Thanks for watching! Glad you liked the video! Be sure to share.
Thank you for the warning! I almost purchased some of those breakers! Now going with Bussmann! Thank you.
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@@electronicsNmore Will do!
I would recommend using a commercial 200 A breaker for a high amp potentially fire causing use case like these batteries. Or a 200 amp fuse at bare minimum. You will want to watch eev blog's video on glass fuses before going the fuse route though. Some fuses can vary greatly in how fast or slow they blow in certain conditions.
I think you might have just helped me diagnose an issue in my 12v system. I have a similar 200 amp breaker between my battery and the rest of the the electrical. After about 5-10 minutes under highish load (around 100 amps), my inverter, solar charge controller, and other devices powered through the breaker all shut off and immediately restart. Nothing shows up in the BMS app to indicate I've exceeded its 130 amp max output setting. I assumed it was either a problem with my BMS or with my inverter because the breaker never actually tripped. Based on your video, I'm thinking that maybe the breaker is heating up causing a temporary disconnect without actually causing the breaker to trip. I never thought it might be the $25 breaker I bought on Amazon. I didn't know much about breakers so I didn't realize that a $25 dollar breaker was "cheap". I've ordered a Blue Sea breaker and after I install it I hope my random micro-outages will be in the past!
Great, thanks for your solid information sir
Excellent video Doug! Watching the video I was wondering what the difference is between that circuit breaker & the breakers found on electrical home panels? Thanks for these videos.... 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed the video Steve! They work very similar, a bimetallic strip, with springs. Some AC breakers are rated for DC. Thanks for watching!
Breakers in the house are a magnetic and thermal type, rated for AC only. You can't use an AC breaker on DC because, DC requires about 4 times the open gap to prevent arcing. There are some combination magnetic/thermal breakers made for DC but, they can only be used in a circuit where the current flow can only occur in one direction only because, these breakers have a polarity associated with them. If hooked up backwards, they don't trip, they just catch on fire. You would never want to use this type breaker between a solar charge controller and a battery bus for instance.
Interesting, thanks for sharing, I am gonna stick with mega fuse, mahalo!
I will be getting rid of all mine in my van thanks for sharing this
Nice presentation..! In future, would be good to measure voltage drop of switches, breakers and fuses at load currents. Milli-ohms matter at >100A...
Glad you liked it! I'll keep what you said in mind for future videos.
Indeed, Looks like junk from the top down. Something worth considering is that generally fuses are intended for overload protection and fuses for short circuit protection.
Thanks for this highly informative and beautifully concise video, definitely subbing to you sir!
Awesome, thank you!
Fantastic video, ty for doing this test, those things have death written all over them. Will buy full sized Schneider or victron breakers.
I noticed something that could explain part of the problem. I don't know if it was like that prior to disassembly, or was a result of the disassembly process, but right in the center of the bi-metal plate, there is an obvious dent. That dent would definitely affect accuracy. If it occurred during the process of taking it apart, then please disregard... Either way, that breaker fittingly, received a hammer... Great, informative video as usual!
I did that. Lol.
@@electronicsNmore oh..ok... Might actually work better now! Haha...
I also had a problem with these 200A resettable fuses. It did trip from high current correctly. So I reset the fuse. But the battery connection became very "flaky" like working for a few minutes, then just stopping for no apparent reason because the fuse was *not* tripped. Yet I couldn't get power in or out of the battery. Could't figure it out for a while and frustratingly had to start taking apart my system to try to find the problem. The problem was the fuse itself! I tested its resistance from pole to pole and it had a huge 1MΩ resistance! I bypassed the DC fuse and confirmed the problem was definitely the DC fuse.
For a while, I considered my BMS was messed up. The BMS has its own MOSFET type software driven fuse. But it was *not* the BMS.
Also, I had one 100A fuse (of the same style) for a different part of the system. It kept on tripping prematurely at 31A to 33A. Lucky I was able to return that one to Amazon for full refund because my charger regularly hits those current levels as part of its regular specified operation.
Now I just use a regular non-resettable ANL fuse with some spare fuses around. But I like the resettable feature because you can also use these fuses as switches to disable/enable parts of your circuit for maintenance/upgrades etc. Still looking.
They're junk.
Very interesting...thanks for the "post-mortem" operation!
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Good tear-down
Really good video.
very well done video.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it Jean. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others.
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Thanks for the investigation
You're welcome Bill! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Thanks buddy. Almost just purchased a 150amp breaker for my car.
Use one of the fuses instead, much cheaper. Have a spare on hand, and make sure it's properly sized. Thanks for watching! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share the video link with others.
Thanks for this!!!!
No problem!!
Nice vid. Well illustrated. I use square D ac breakers. QM breakers are rated at 60vdc and QO breakers are rated at 48vdc. NOT the ones you find at home despot. You can find these at electrical supply outlets.
Thank you! Yes, they can be used, but I think they only go up to 60 or 70A.
@@electronicsNmore QM go to 200 amps. I have a 2 pole 100 amp protecting my battery bank. Says rated for 60vdc right on the breaker. Surplus cost $25.
@@rocktech7144 You stole that, they're expensive.
@@rocktech7144 Hi RockTech, where is your source for sq d QM 60v breakers. Thanks
This style of breaker works fine as long as you don’t buy cheap crap one!!
I was having drama’s with 60 amp no name unit tripping with only a 30 amp load. Went to a 100amp cheap unit same problem started tripping due to screw terminals getting hot.
Swapped it out for a 40 amp blueseas breaker and it has not false tripped once or got warm at all. The old saying apply’s here. “You get what you pay for”
I never said the style was bad, I said if it looks just like what you see in this video, don't buy it. Bussman and Blue Sea are OK.
Thanks for informing video I have 4 different types of these the two I’m gonna use are Allen set screw I do have the same type as you show. I got the Allen type and I got about two hundred more amps then I needed at the battery but I got fuses at my amps if they don’t work I’ll have to change out to better or fuses up thanks again!
Glad to help Harold! Be sure to check out my very wide range of videos and share. Thanks
If you want to try a better breaker, look at the Rockford Fosgate brand. I have ran a 12k winch for a good pull and it worked a premium. The style you have shown also don't make a good contact on the input and output
Sorry you had to deal with another barely/poorly, designed/engineered, piece of crap, but we appreciate you sharing your experiences. It's good folks like you sharing these things honestly that makes YT worth our time, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great video mate. Just got a sub!
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Nailed it.
Each time a DC breaker is tripped under load an arc etches the contact faces. Each additional use will cause heat rises due to poor contact. Start with quality and use with respect. Frequently measuring the voltage drop across the terminals will give a great heads up to pending failures.
Yes, the breaker should never be used as a switch when the load is connected.
I think you hit the nail on the head at 13:15. That BS dimple on the plate can't be making a great contact to the silver contact on the brass buss.
These type of breaker switches do not have a magnet to draw off the DC arc. They are good for 2-5 load breaks and that's it. Don't use it as a switch under load. Just like you shouldn't use a AC circuit breaker as a switch.
This is not necessarily true. 1kA sure, some magnets to extend the arc, oil to quench the arc, etc all help. At 200a though the silver contacts when properly sized, with enough plating and strong enough return springs to promote fast opening time are sufficient, break open some name brand starter contactors from little fuse, trombetta, etc will reveal this is sufficient for 50,000-100,000 make/brake cycles
Recommendations for breakers? Updating current system.
Thanks. I have some of these at about 50 Amps, time to remove them. Normal Clipsal 250 VAC breakers are rated to 48 VDC so i will use them in a single pole enclosure for 12 VDC.
You're welcome Mike! Smart move. Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Shucks, wish I had known sooner. Bought two 200-amp and four 50-amp. Still in box, haven't used them yet. Intent was for battery groups to the DC/AC inverters. Have since purchased large blade type 200-amp fuses.
Live and learn. Fuses are cheaper and reliable. Thanks for watching!
Regardless of the bad breaker .. your battery set up is very nice 👍
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At least on Banggood, the description is talking about car audio system, so it seems the intended use is for powerful car amps. I think for that purpose it might be perfect, regarding it's price.
Amps is amps!
Thanks for the video. Do you have a recommended 250A breakers for solar use?
Hi there. I prefer Bussman / Blue Sea, but others of similar design will work. Definitely avoid the type seen in this video. Thanks for watching!
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good enough for me for small apliances as long as it triggers lower than what its rated for
Hey can you do a similar breakdown on a couple other brands like T Tocas ?
Dunno about those more expensive name brand DC resettable fuses. You go on Amazon and people complain about the same type of problems happening on those expensive resettable fuses also. Apparently, DC fuses are much more tricky to implement than AC fuses due to some physics I don't yet fathom.
But a big contributor to this the sparking *oxidation* from rapid connect/disconnect under load. The switch *always* sparks if there is load at the time of connect/disconnect. The spark oxidizes the metal at contact point which deteriorates the conductor. Not sure how household AC fuses deal with it as the same thing happens inside them as well. So each time you switch the fuse under load, you damage the conductive part a little bit.
The only way to deal with sparking problem long-term is to use a resistor or "sacrificial" part of the conductor that is active only during the very small period of time at the moment of first contact or disconnect. So, during connection, the resistor/sacrifice makes first contact. Conversely, during disconnect, the resistor/sacrifice is last to lose contact. So if the "expensive" fuse doesn't have this feature, the same type of heating problems will eventually plague them as well.
i used Eaton Cooper Bussmann 187 Series Reset Circuit Breakers 30 and 75 amp. $49.50 each but well worth it. i also use max wiring size on my solar project. for 200 amp id use midnite solar.
Eaton makes good breakers. Midnite solar makes good stuff. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore i found you researching SWIPOWER/CNSWIPOWER 3000W/6000W off-grid pure sine wave inverter. very well done and you have earned a subscribe from me.
If the BMS has an external thermal sensor, simply connect a small OFF switch in parallel.
Good idea! Thank you!
Love your very helpful videos. I have an old damaged "Tevo Magneto Rechargeable LED Lantern" that I want to salvage the LED light panel from and run it directly of mains if possible. Could you please please please make a video of that. I don't want to through away the unit if there are still working LED lights on it.
How much power does it draw and what voltage?
@@electronicsNmore thanks for your reply. It says charging voltage: 220-240V , 50/60Hz and it had a 6V 4AH battery. I'm in Africa 😊
Thanks... Do you know of a good make at a reasonable price? As im doing my own diy solar setup and need a 200amp dc breaker! Was looking at these, but not now 😱. 👍
I have a sxs and 1 night we rode went to sleep and woke up to my sxs almost on fire something shorted out so now I take battery cable off everytime it's going to be setting without me right there by it anyway I want to put a breaker on it NOT FOR PROTECTION but just to kill all power so I don't have to keep putting cables on and off a ac breaker would fit best in space I have what do yall recommend I use thanks in advance....
Thanks, But it was to late for me, had it to learn the Hard way. Mine 200A Part could not hold 120A for 2 h now i use Mega Fuses.
MEGA fuses are a good way to go, and fairly inexpensive.
tnx...i ordered it 1 week ago xD
I wish i saw this sooner lol
I had one of those on my truck..... Not even a ton of current going through it- just internal/external electrics and it took a dump.
Glad you got rid of it!
bah... so you are saying I am spending 200-300 on that victron lynx Distributor.
Nice vid; was having same concerns when I saw how flimsy the 300A version was.
5:16 As seen on your thermal cam, it was the part of the wire under the black heat shrink tubing that was heating up the most.
6:23 "..this brass section..."
OK... if that is brass, then it is definitely NOT FIT for high current. It should be pure copper.
8:00 this 2nd test is convincing.
I had a pair of these on a solar battery bank for the incoming current - they didn't last more than a few days before I sent them back due to concern about safety and operation.
They have no business selling these, they're almost worthless. Thanks for watching
I've had several of those breakers. Typically they have the same housing with the current rating as in the video. Those are defective. I have ordered several that say waterproof and ignition protected on the front and those work just fine. Those breakers are physically a different size slightly.
I have an anl, 100 amp fuse holder, and over a short amount of time, a couple months, it provides power, for a 1000, watt, inverter, and the fuse holder melts, o already replaced it a couple months ago, and its doing the same thing again, not sure why, and I use it to power a coffee pot, 5 cup, and to power a battery charger, to charge a marine, deep cycle agm battery, I'm assuming, I'm going to have to increase, the wire size, from 4awg, to 0 awg?
I use some of them with different amps.
In another video i saw a test about breakers. It was about the 100 Amp one. And this one works the best.
100 Amp shut down at 99.7 Amp. Ok could a bit higher but others shut down at 150 or even 230 Amps.
There are a view of them on the Market and I'm not sure they all bad.
I don't trust any of these. I'll stick with Blue Sea and others.
I have always wondered how that thing could handle 200A. The post are TINY !!!!! I have a few of them in the box unopened.
Sell them at a yard sale. LOL
It appears you purchased a couple of the cheap chinesium knock-offs. Once you find a good supplier on eBay, these type of breakers work just fine. I have a few 150-250 amp breakers of this style that all trip within 10% of rated current. And $15 to $20 is a whole lot cheaper than $100 - $200 for a Blue Sea equivalent. The key is to look for breakers that have brand and UL listing info on them. Its also a lot safer to throw a $15 breaker into a new system, than to hold off until you can afford $100+ for a new breaker.
They are made in China, there's nothing to KO. The style shown in this video, same housing, same lever, same reset button,etc.....a definite avoid.
Nice
A 200 amp (standard-rated) breaker should trip at a 200 amp spike. Constant load rating is 80% or 160 amps. That breaker should have been able to handle 154 amps without overheating and tripping. Just like their battery ratings, you never know what your going to get. Thanks for the informative videos!
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This is an interesting fact, since this is different to Europe: In Europe the rated current of a breaker is the maximum continuous current. Depending on the characteristic of the breaker (there are several different available) the breaker should trip at a current of 1.05 to 1.5 times of the rated current, if they have an additional magnetic based short circuit detection this should trigger at 1.5 (circuit breakers in Europe usually have a thermal based over current protection plus a magnetic based short curcuit protection)
13;25, The pressure on the contact may be substandard. As the concave plate started to heat up at 150a the pressure on the contact weakens even more, in-turn, increasing resistance / heat production, popping the device prematurely. As pointed out, poor quality device in several areas.
Wow there is a lot wrong with this type breaker !, I was going to use 3 of them in my step van 70, 100, 200 amp. But now I'll use something else. ! 😃😃😃Thanks
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Nice!!
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Are Attwood marine, manual circuit breakers good for like 12v 6-100Ah deep cycle batteries for outboard trolling motors?
I never tested them, the Bussman and Blue Sea I know are just fine. Thanks for watching!
Steer clear of any protective gear (circuit breakers, fuses, switches, etc) that doesn’t have a manufacturer’s brand/logo on it. Also beware of fakes that have a false brand/logo on them. If it’s half price or less than the rrp, it’s likely a fake or inferior.
Unfortunately reliable brands have enormous markups for the distributors and retailers, making these fakes and inferiors so attractive!
one bad thing if using brass, it does not have very good conductivity as pure copper. Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
The differences in electrical conductivity of various materials used in marine electrical products are often not well understood. Making assumptions about the electrical conductivity of a material because it looks similar to another conductive material of known ampacity can lead to disastrous results.
Perhaps the most common form of this error is the substitution of brass or bronze for copper in electrical applications. Brass is only 28% as conductive as copper. Some bronzes are as low as 7% as conductive as copper!
Copper is the standard by which electrical materials are rated and conductivity ratings are expressed as a relative measurement to copper. These ratings will frequently be expressed as "28 IACS". IACS is the abbreviation for International Annealed Copper Standard and the number preceding "IACS" is the percentage of conductivity a material has relative to copper, which is considered to be 100% conductive. This does not mean that copper has no resistance (is 100% conductive in an absolute sense), but rather that it is the standard by which other materials are measured. The higher the % IACS, the more conductive the material is. This standard refers to a pure, "standard" copper having a resistivity of 1.7241 microhm-cm at 20°C (68°F).
Armed with this knowledge it is interesting to examine the IACS conductivity values of some common materials.
You were going to provide a link for the BMS?
Hi there. Look in the video description area. Thanks
I'd recommend against that Mini ANL fuse holder... very cheap and the plastic will just melt under load, leaving exposed metal that still hasn't broken apart... very dangerous.
It seems clear that the contact area (referred to as the 'silver' part) is the problem. It's even discoloured where it's been arcing. This is a design flaw. While it's true that the parts have to be quite rigid (unsprung) to ensure disconnection in these cheap parts, it looks like the geometry is poor. Also, it's hard to believe that thermal response tolerances (of the enclosure and the plate) have be ensured in such a woeful device, even if the contact were perfect.
As I learned, stick with Bussman and other high quality brands.
What's the voltage you're using? What's the rated voltage of the cheap breaker?
have you measured the voltage drop across the breaker?
No, but the level of heat generated indicates it would be a lot.
What is the brand name of the defective breaker. There are a lot of them out there and a large range of pricing
Hi Mitch. It's generic. If you see the exact same housing, lever, and reset button, regardless of color, avoid it. I posted a link where you can find other breakers. Thanks for watching!
Had the same problems with my 400 amp circuit breakers they opened up at at least half their rated power , switched to fuses and no false trips , I really wanted circuit breakers cause of their disconnect ability so much easier than un bolting a fuse any know a reliable good 12 v circuit breaker brand?
2:56 "...when you do this..." weren't you hindering the little red button from moving thus preventing it from latching?
3:50 yet when you did not touch it, it still did not latch... so it is bad
My alleged 209 amp one kept tripping at 100 amps. Furthermore, that plastic arm which you swivel down to reset the breaker is so flimsy where it connects to the shaft that it cracked and no longer moves the shaft. Bought another one...and surprise surprise....both faults repeated.
Yep. Total garbage. Be sure to check out my solar and battery testing video playlists as well. Thanks!
Replace the brass washer with a copper one.
I agree that breaker is crap, but 200A should be it's breaking capability, not triggering current. According to your tests I would say that this is ''200A'' breaker with 63A triggering current, medium or slow type.
I like your videos very much.
Keep going like this :)
No 200A should definitely be the triggering current. That would be like rating a 50A fuse 200A, it would blow as soon as you turn on the load.
That is NOT how we rate electrical protection devices.
@@SnowGolem1TheL33t There is a difference between CIRCUIT BREAKER and automatic FUSE. Fuse should trigger at rated current, and circuit breaker should be able to brake electric circuit at rated current, circuit breaker, if it has triggering function, could be sett to trigger at less value than it's maximum rated current, according to circuit designed current.
This is of course nonsense, because there is no way to sett triggering current, thus to achieve it's braking capacity current :)
I'd be willing to all the red "braker" brass buss piece from 10 amps to 200. Use the same size material.
Don't forget Square-D's QO breakers are rated/listed for DC, up to 96V, AFAIR. Put them in one of those cheap little spa panels.
One look at these things and you can see they can't safely manage 200Amps, Go look at your main breaker in your service panel: and remember, that one is for AC. DC current is even harder to break up.
and even with the BUSS 200A breaker: how the hell are you gonna attach something like an AWG2 cable to those little posts??
Don't forget, we're also supposed to de-rate for DC (now you're looking at AWG1 or 0...)
To safely control 200A, you should use a distribution panel, and the Square-D QO breakers.
True! I've seen them. SQ-D is good.
I found this out the hard way. Using a fuse now.
Now you know. :-)
Seems like decent quality the only thing they did wrong was they put 200 A on the package
More likely a 60A.
Why didn't u change the ground bigger as well?
Just curious, the breaker should connect to positive or negative battery?
+
Good job mate, nice tear down and made a lot of good points here. The average Joe DIYer is easily tempted (self included) into this “Cheap Chinese Crap” (is this a Triple C rating?). Thanks & Cheers
Thanks Evan!
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I'm new to solar stuff. But a hair dryer pulls 68 amps? Sorry I don't understand why when it only pulls 1500 watts roughly.
🖖 👍 Very nice video.
Does Anyone know a inet side, for brass, stainless steel, ect current ratings in Amps = mm2 🤔
I'm sure you can find that online doing a search. Thanks for watching!
What’s the brand?