Brill video clip! I changed the motor on mine about 5 years ago. Occasionally now, after the heating has been off all summer, the mechanical part of the valve sticks.. but all I do is unclip the top, and with a small adjustable spanner, gently work the valve pedestal either way. Its never very tight and only has ever taken a couple of minutes to sort...and its not every year
Much appreciate for sharing the videos, great help to understand the problem, Actually by turning on hot water, it was triggering the heating of radiators, But by watching your videos i understood that what was the actual problem. Thank you so much.
Very useful! I've just dismantled the valve and found the posts holding the return springs had both broken (motor is fine). (Dead giveaway when I dismounted the actuator and there were multiple rattles from inside!). Hooked the spring ends into the holes where the posts used to be and the valve now seems to be working properly. Thanks for the view of the internal workings!!
Hi. I actually had a similar issue few months after replacing the motor where one of the posts snapped. I ended up drilling a small pilot hole and then inserted a small screw with similar dimensions to replace it. Not great but seemed to do the job. I just made sure the screw was in deep enough so it wouldn't get pulled out as the springs are quite strong.
@@amp9438 Maybe before refitting the actuator, give the valve a bit of manual opening and closing in case it's got a bit stiff after sitting around for the summer.
Thanks for this! I was looking for a video on how the Drayton MA1 works, but this gives me enough info for what I need. I am finding that the actuator moves as expected when it is removed from the valve, but for some reason does not seem to be strong enough to turn the valve when attached. It could be the valve has become too stiff or the motor is no longer strong enough who knows. I have manually set the valve in the hot water only position, which should be good until winter comes again
Thank you for that. Have replaced my motor as the actuator was becoming unreliable (valve itself moves freely by hand). Took 5 minutes to do - gently prised off the connectors with a small screwdriver. My actuator was replaced 2-3 years ago .. disappointing as the previous one had lasted 12+ years!
Thanks for that Having this issue with switch stuck on open and rads always hot. Will try to take it off and see if I can manually close it. These things always happen on week ends when no electricians around :(
Just brilliant video. For siz long months...I been manually turning on CH get HW. I can finally see what problem is and find a cheap solution i just needed to know (how to unclip unit off pipe, how to test unit). I really didnt want to pay a plumber 80 labour + 80 part for what was a simple job.. Edit : ANOTHER USEFUL VIDEO ua-cam.com/video/0MKnKj5bdzY/v-deo.html Bless this channel !!!!
That black lever on mine will not budge at all. It's stuck in the groove. Should I replace it? Edit: You can manually move it to the heating position, you can't move it back. Mine turned out to be the valve sticking, I removed the actuator and then manually moved the valve with adjustable spanner which freed it up, now it's possible to move it with my fingers.
Am I right in thinking when it's just the heating it would be on one side, just the water on the other and if both are on it's in the middle? Mine seems to get to the middle and then just keeps clicking/
Thanks for this video. I have had problems with my heating working intermittently for the last few months. It will work fine for a few days or maybe a week and then the boiler won’t fire when the call for heat is made. If I turn it all off for a couple of days and then start again it will work again for a while. I assumed it was the boiler at fault nd maybe the PCB but then I noticed the hot water on its own works fine, boiler fires no problem and it works as it should. It only seems to be when CH only is selected. I can hear the boiler clicking on and off trying to start so I think it communicates with the room stat, goes to start and then the mid position actuator doesn’t move as it should. Does this sound the likely issue to you because if it was the brass valve then the hot water wouldn’t work either? Thanks.
My actuator changes position from heating to hot water no problem, but recently we noticed that whn we turn on the hot water the heating is on as well, while the actuator is on W position [meaing hot water only no heating]. I cant figure out why my radiators get hot :(
@@amp9438 Yes it has to be that, the actuator turns but the valve must still stay open a little bit , my first 2 radiators heat up alot and the rest are barely warm, the last one is cold, a gas engineer will come and probably change the vavle itself.
If you watch the Drayton training video on their actuators they have 5 watt synchronous motors designed to stall but remain live hence the heat generation.
Thank you for this video. My mid position valve is playing up, so it is hit or miss if the heating is coming on. Also, the arm to select water, heating or both has fallen inside, so I feel it would be better to replace the whole box rather than just the motor. From experience, would it be easier to remove the black mains lead from the valve end or from the wiring panel?
@user-ik8nw9ep3i funny I'm having a similar problem with the downstairs rads not heating up but upstairs do when the heating program starts on both zones. I found the downstairs motorised valve had no light lit to say it was on. Trying a 1hr boost after, and it worked. It's more working than nit currently
@@James-BB70 the issue for me is the heating staying on and therefore the boiler won’t stop firing. It happens maybe once or twice a week when turning off the heating. A tap of said unit seems to make it work I realised last night. Seems to be my issue entirely
It's not as easy as this guy makes out. To get the bolts back in you gotta line up a hole in the plastic moulding of the valve with a hole in a loose metal base plate with a hole in a seperate metal heat sink with a hole in the motor casing. For 2 bolts at the same time. Now screw in the bolts with one of your other free hands. Good luck with that. Helps to have 6-8 hands. Or tentacles.
It should be pretty easy to do, I've been working on mine and have taken it apart completely about five times over the past week. You don't have to put the two bolts in at the same time. It really isn't difficult.
Can I ask the activator/value stop working so I tried to take off and realised it did have a screw securing it, but then decided to leave it but on try to lift off, it's actually freed it up and now working thou on everything depending if i have put heating on or water. But the activator is now physically the white box from side to side slowly when changing to different heat or water, is this right??? I guessing not but just checking, at least i have heating now but wanted to know if safe please????
Possibly. An qualified engineer could try disconnecting the actuator (motor) from the control circuit to see if it still trips the circuit when switched on.
If you remove the motor section from the valve you can see if it moves when the heating and/or hot water is switched on/off. The valve can also get stiff so worth checking if it can be move. Note they only move a small amount to open & close.
Hi. I'm not a qualified plumber but guess it's possible if the valve isn't properly closing. Is it the radiators nearest the boiler? If the valve isn't closing they could be getting some hot water causing them to heat up. The others might be too far away so don't get enough hot water to heat them up. All just a theory though!
Actuatr checking loday working no no ok by pass open solved actuator not woringonly checkingsime upside normal checking pushing and moveig ño no ok by passopend and avbles replasing ok
Thanks! My motor was fine, but the mechanical valve was frozen. A simple wiggle with pliers and it was free!
I had the same issue. This video showed me that the actuator can be unclipped to access the valve.
Thank you. Watching your video has saved me a lot of money and time. I bought a new motor for 15quid and it was fixed. Happy days. Thank you :))))
Thanks. My heating was stuck on open. Replaced a danfoss motorised valve unit and it's working fine.
Brill video clip! I changed the motor on mine about 5 years ago. Occasionally now, after the heating has been off all summer, the mechanical part of the valve sticks.. but all I do is unclip the top, and with a small adjustable spanner, gently work the valve pedestal either way. Its never very tight and only has ever taken a couple of minutes to sort...and its not every year
Mine just snapped off! Lol.... was incredibly tight and then it wasn't! Lol
Excellent - thanks for this - I think one of ours has ceased but now know much more about how it works.
Much appreciate for sharing the videos, great help to understand the problem, Actually by turning on hot water, it was triggering the heating of radiators, But by watching your videos i understood that what was the actual problem. Thank you so much.
mine too...exact same issue.
Brilliant video
Very useful! I've just dismantled the valve and found the posts holding the return springs had both broken (motor is fine). (Dead giveaway when I dismounted the actuator and there were multiple rattles from inside!). Hooked the spring ends into the holes where the posts used to be and the valve now seems to be working properly. Thanks for the view of the internal workings!!
Hi. I actually had a similar issue few months after replacing the motor where one of the posts snapped. I ended up drilling a small pilot hole and then inserted a small screw with similar dimensions to replace it. Not great but seemed to do the job. I just made sure the screw was in deep enough so it wouldn't get pulled out as the springs are quite strong.
@@amp9438 Maybe before refitting the actuator, give the valve a bit of manual opening and closing in case it's got a bit stiff after sitting around for the summer.
Thanks for this! I was looking for a video on how the Drayton MA1 works, but this gives me enough info for what I need. I am finding that the actuator moves as expected when it is removed from the valve, but for some reason does not seem to be strong enough to turn the valve when attached. It could be the valve has become too stiff or the motor is no longer strong enough who knows. I have manually set the valve in the hot water only position, which should be good until winter comes again
Thank you for that.
Have replaced my motor as the actuator was becoming unreliable (valve itself moves freely by hand). Took 5 minutes to do - gently prised off the connectors with a small screwdriver.
My actuator was replaced 2-3 years ago .. disappointing as the previous one had lasted 12+ years!
Wow what a guy. Think I have this problem will try tomorrow when light and can switch off power.
Thanks for that Having this issue with switch stuck on open and rads always hot. Will try to take it off and see if I can manually close it. These things always happen on week ends when no electricians around :(
Thank you - I am warm again!
A splendid effort! 👌🏻
Just brilliant video.
For siz long months...I been manually turning on CH get HW. I can finally see what problem is and find a cheap solution i just needed to know (how to unclip unit off pipe, how to test unit). I really didnt want to pay a plumber 80 labour + 80 part for what was a simple job..
Edit : ANOTHER USEFUL VIDEO ua-cam.com/video/0MKnKj5bdzY/v-deo.html
Bless this channel !!!!
Very helpful information thanks
Thank You for this vid. Im off to buy the motor now
Many thanks fantastic video
That black lever on mine will not budge at all. It's stuck in the groove. Should I replace it? Edit: You can manually move it to the heating position, you can't move it back. Mine turned out to be the valve sticking, I removed the actuator and then manually moved the valve with adjustable spanner which freed it up, now it's possible to move it with my fingers.
Great info, I didn't know Screwfix sold motor replacements.
Great job thank you
Brilliant thanks 😊 👍
lovely little vid, same happened for me.
Thank you :)
Am I right in thinking when it's just the heating it would be on one side, just the water on the other and if both are on it's in the middle? Mine seems to get to the middle and then just keeps clicking/
Thanks for this video. I have had problems with my heating working intermittently for the last few months. It will work fine for a few days or maybe a week and then the boiler won’t fire when the call for heat is made. If I turn it all off for a couple of days and then start again it will work again for a while. I assumed it was the boiler at fault nd maybe the PCB but then I noticed the hot water on its own works fine, boiler fires no problem and it works as it should. It only seems to be when CH only is selected. I can hear the boiler clicking on and off trying to start so I think it communicates with the room stat, goes to start and then the mid position actuator doesn’t move as it should.
Does this sound the likely issue to you because if it was the brass valve then the hot water wouldn’t work either? Thanks.
Just wondering why you skipped showing how to replace. I assumed that was the point of the video
My actuator changes position from heating to hot water no problem, but recently we noticed that whn we turn on the hot water the heating is on as well, while the actuator is on W position [meaing hot water only no heating]. I cant figure out why my radiators get hot :(
Maybe the valve itself has failed?
@@amp9438 Yes it has to be that, the actuator turns but the valve must still stay open a little bit , my first 2 radiators heat up alot and the rest are barely warm, the last one is cold, a gas engineer will come and probably change the vavle itself.
Im is this everything works well valve just is warm all the time, is it supposed to be like that ?
If you watch the Drayton training video on their actuators they have 5 watt synchronous motors designed to stall but remain live hence the heat generation.
Thank you for this video. My mid position valve is playing up, so it is hit or miss if the heating is coming on. Also, the arm to select water, heating or both has fallen inside, so I feel it would be better to replace the whole box rather than just the motor. From experience, would it be easier to remove the black mains lead from the valve end or from the wiring panel?
Did you replace it?
@Horizon301 not yet, it's working more often than not at the moment so it's on my to do list rather than urgent for now
@user-ik8nw9ep3i funny I'm having a similar problem with the downstairs rads not heating up but upstairs do when the heating program starts on both zones. I found the downstairs motorised valve had no light lit to say it was on. Trying a 1hr boost after, and it worked. It's more working than nit currently
@@James-BB70 the issue for me is the heating staying on and therefore the boiler won’t stop firing. It happens maybe once or twice a week when turning off the heating. A tap of said unit seems to make it work I realised last night. Seems to be my issue entirely
Nice
4:14 Which button?
One of my springs had failed as the plastic mounting stump had vanished, spring secured with cable ties and heating works again. cheap fix.
It's not as easy as this guy makes out. To get the bolts back in you gotta line up a hole in the plastic moulding of the valve with a hole in a loose metal base plate with a hole in a seperate metal heat sink with a hole in the motor casing. For 2 bolts at the same time. Now screw in the bolts with one of your other free hands. Good luck with that. Helps to have 6-8 hands. Or tentacles.
It should be pretty easy to do, I've been working on mine and have taken it apart completely about five times over the past week. You don't have to put the two bolts in at the same time. It really isn't difficult.
Can I ask the activator/value stop working so I tried to take off and realised it did have a screw securing it, but then decided to leave it but on try to lift off, it's actually freed it up and now working thou on everything depending if i have put heating on or water. But the activator is now physically the white box from side to side slowly when changing to different heat or water, is this right??? I guessing not but just checking, at least i have heating now but wanted to know if safe please????
Sorry don't really follow. Probably better to get a plumber to check if you're concerned
Could a stuck valve cause the electricity to cut when heating/water is switched on? The valve was warm even when the system was off?
Possibly. An qualified engineer could try disconnecting the actuator (motor) from the control circuit to see if it still trips the circuit when switched on.
Stickup ok push btton and pushing trying all strickup replasing by pass oj vave colsed opend probles sloved ok
Thank you mine is stuck on heating and hot water £20 for the motor
Stick up maewly open pushing
Other was emoving replasing
How do u know/ check it's the motor not the 3 way valve ?
If you remove the motor section from the valve you can see if it moves when the heating and/or hot water is switched on/off. The valve can also get stiff so worth checking if it can be move. Note they only move a small amount to open & close.
Can I replace the midposition ma1 with a midposition za5 changing the whole mechanism body and head?
Can this three point valve cause be my problem? I have a combi boiler and some of my radiators get hot during the night!
Hi. I'm not a qualified plumber but guess it's possible if the valve isn't properly closing. Is it the radiators nearest the boiler? If the valve isn't closing they could be getting some hot water causing them to heat up. The others might be too far away so don't get enough hot water to heat them up. All just a theory though!
Combi systems do not have 3 port valves. They have divertor valves within the boiler casing.
Call a gas safe engineer !!
You blinder!
What's the difference between a shoe valve and paddle valve? Are they interchangeable? Is one better?
What makes this actuator valve hum loudly please?
I guess the motor could if its stuck or could it not be the water pump?
Actuatr checking loday working no no ok by pass open solved actuator not woringonly checkingsime upside normal checking pushing and moveig ño no ok by passopend and avbles replasing ok
I think this actuator is designed to sit with the motor energised all the time when in hearing mode?