thanks a lot, I just replaced plugs and it still was missing out so the auto place where I live said replace wires, rotor and cap and this definetly helped out a lot on how to do this. I do appreciate it a lot.
I just rode it out from 140k to 155k when I had my 97 corolla. I only fixed most suspension parts and brakes that needed it. The fuel and brake lines were rusty and just jerry rigged them patching a couple lines. I never did any tune up it ran fine with original plugs and wires. I figured it ran good why fix it if it aint missing or backfiring right? Now I have a 2004 Lexus es300 with only 120k miles. Those cars don't need tuneup until 200k also. Japanese cars can go 200k just changing oil on ALL original belts. The 97 corolla car still going at 180k miles only thing fixed on motor was valve cover gasket
ha thanks! i race a Geo prizm and i needed to change the rotor but wasnt sure how it came out. had to put the screw driver behind and give it a gental tug. hoping this fixes my issue
Everything looks so easy on videos but often not so in real life. What is the best way to remove stuck plug wires [rubber boots stuck on the engine valve cover]? I tried squeezing the cap with locking pliers w/o applying the lock, but that didn't work on any of the 4 plug wires. Do I have to destroy the plug wires to get them off? Is this common? What causes it so I can take preventative measures? Thanks for any input and experience.
+ourlegacy I tried removing the 4 spark plug caps again today during daylight hours and wiggled with two hands instead of one and got all four rubber boots off without needing to use any special tools. [No idea why the difference other than it was two-handed, day time and after a rain storm]. Replaced air filter, pvc valve, spark plugs (although all 4 of my old Denso spark plugs were pristine), spark plug wires and distributor cap/rotor/gasket and passed state safety and smog inspection with very low emissions. Studying your demo video helped immensely in preparing me to do the job successfully. Thank you. Paying it forward add-ons: 1) I could not and did not remove the single mounting screw for the wire connector on top of the distributor. 2) I removed the 3 mounting phillips screws for the distributor cap by pretreating the 3 screws with a light coat of 50/50 homemade penetrating oil (recycled vegetable oil and acetone) and released them with 8mm socket ratchet wrench. I got minimal amount of wrenching room to free the 3 mounting screws with the air intake duct and cleaner removed. 3) Drew and notated the position of the 3 mounting phillips screws and the ignition wire number and position (#1-4) on the distributor cap on a notepad just for added confirmation in keeping the firing order correctly esp. for first timers and multi-taskers in installing/connecting the new wires later. 4) Lightly traced/marked the outline of the rotor onto the distributor before taking the old rotor off (to prevent any unknown minor mis-alignment issues). 5) I did have to pry my rotor off with a screwdriver slightly as my rotor seemed to be fitted on the distributor much tighter than yours was. I couldn't get enough leverage just by hand pulling it off the distributor. 6) I applied a very thin coat of dielectric grease in 2 areas: the ignition wire separators/looms and the ceramic portion of the spark plugs or the rubber boot end of the ignition wires only (no dielectric grease on the distributor end, although the new distributor cap connectors did come very slightly greased).
check for a crack on coil across by hi volt terminal if you have cap off causes intermittently probs when it rains .bead of silicon or replace it . can change on car.
Super helpful demo and tips. Is that a vacuum hose? What kind or size of hose should I look for or ask for at the parts store or at Home Depot? Thank you.
I went ahead and changed the rotor and distributor cap on my 95 geo today, just like in the video, put it back in the right order, It started up and drove around fine for about 2 hours. The engine light came on and my car would stop for a sec while driving, it also came to a complete stop. I unclamped the filter box and moved it aside to have access to the cap, why is it acting up like this? It was very misty today, moisture inside the cap or did is it something with the air filter cap. It's going to be cold out I really do not want to have to take the dis. cap off again.
Do have an auto zone or part store near you that will let you use a tester to test your car to see what the engine light means. Napa auto I think loans tools. The tester will put up a number that you can ask Google what it means or if the tester is awesome it will tell you right then on screen. Also if you have a 1994 Geo like mine or earlier you will need a specific tester. there is a rectangular plug just under the dash near the steering column that you plug into. And or get one at Amazon cheap one. The air intake box should have no bearing on running. unless its pushing on some wiring.
Where do you order your Distributor Cap and Rotor? Do you find a difference b/t the one you use and Toyota OEM Distributor Cap and Rotor? After installing the rotor and distributor cap, did you say we need to adjust for timing or not?
+ourlegacy I got the parts at Auto zone. I think I will order online next time. No you do not need to change timing but if you can it is worth checking. it runs ok on this cao and rotor. it is a Toyota Corolla on the inside.
i have a problem with the spark plug wires they wont come out, i pulled them pretty hard but they just wont give, do they have a screw or something that i need to take off before pulling them? and i have the exact same model as your, actually my little car is white too.
I would run it to get it alittle warm than pull up the boot some and spray lots of lube juice of your choice in the hole. And try some twisting of the boot to. Being ruber to ceramic stuck I would start with "Triflow" "WD40" something like that not so much for rusted parts lube like "PBblast". I have got a stuck one off my tuck with PB blast.
To adjust the timing you need a timing light hook it up to # 1 plug wire then shine it on timing mark on crank shaft pulley [passenger side] then loosen the two bolts holding the distributor turn to the Top Dead Center mark needed and retighten. I have put this car at 21 BTC runs great now, I have no idea why it runs at 21 BTC. Timing belt slipped? F it.
I see you like putting the wrong plugs in your motor with a gap of.044. nice. btw 98-02 doesnt have a cap and rotor. you're just another guy sharing the wrong info on the internet. Thanks!
Get bent. I am working on a "1994" not 98-02 you're just another guy not listening to the intro or even watching the video to see it has a distributor. Your welcome, now we know your not a mechanic even one in the back yard. You waste of our time with your stupidity.
thanks a lot, I just replaced plugs and it still was missing out so the auto place where I live said replace wires, rotor and cap and this definetly helped out a lot on how to do this. I do appreciate it a lot.
Thanks! This was extremely helpful for changing the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires on my '92 Prizm.
I just rode it out from 140k to 155k when I had my 97 corolla. I only fixed most suspension parts and brakes that needed it. The fuel and brake lines were rusty and just jerry rigged them patching a couple lines. I never did any tune up it ran fine with original plugs and wires. I figured it ran good why fix it if it aint missing or backfiring right? Now I have a 2004 Lexus es300 with only 120k miles. Those cars don't need tuneup until 200k also. Japanese cars can go 200k just changing oil on ALL original belts. The 97 corolla car still going at 180k miles only thing fixed on motor was valve cover gasket
ha thanks! i race a Geo prizm and i needed to change the rotor but wasnt sure how it came out. had to put the screw driver behind and give it a gental tug. hoping this fixes my issue
how do you race a prizm?
Lol you race a prizm but you don’t know how to change the rotor 🤔😂😂😂
This was 7 years ago haha. Just had started out.
We all had to start somewhere i suppose
Any high-quality aftermarket distributor brand that you can recommend for this engine?
Everything looks so easy on videos but often not so in real life. What is the best way to remove stuck plug wires [rubber boots stuck on the engine valve cover]? I tried squeezing the cap with locking pliers w/o applying the lock, but that didn't work on any of the 4 plug wires. Do I have to destroy the plug wires to get them off? Is this common? What causes it so I can take preventative measures? Thanks for any input and experience.
+ourlegacy I tried removing the 4 spark plug caps again today during daylight hours and wiggled with two hands instead of one and got all four rubber boots off without needing to use any special tools. [No idea why the difference other than it was two-handed, day time and after a rain storm]. Replaced air filter, pvc valve, spark plugs (although all 4 of my old Denso spark plugs were pristine), spark plug wires and distributor cap/rotor/gasket and passed state safety and smog inspection with very low emissions. Studying your demo video helped immensely in preparing me to do the job successfully. Thank you.
Paying it forward add-ons:
1) I could not and did not remove the single mounting screw for the wire connector on top of the distributor.
2) I removed the 3 mounting phillips screws for the distributor cap by pretreating the 3 screws with a light coat of 50/50 homemade penetrating oil (recycled vegetable oil and acetone) and released them with 8mm socket ratchet wrench. I got minimal amount of wrenching room to free the 3 mounting screws with the air intake duct and cleaner removed.
3) Drew and notated the position of the 3 mounting phillips screws and the ignition wire number and position (#1-4) on the distributor cap on a notepad just for added confirmation in keeping the firing order correctly esp. for first timers and multi-taskers in installing/connecting the new wires later.
4) Lightly traced/marked the outline of the rotor onto the distributor before taking the old rotor off (to prevent any unknown minor mis-alignment issues).
5) I did have to pry my rotor off with a screwdriver slightly as my rotor seemed to be fitted on the distributor much tighter than yours was. I couldn't get enough leverage just by hand pulling it off the distributor.
6) I applied a very thin coat of dielectric grease in 2 areas: the ignition wire separators/looms and the ceramic portion of the spark plugs or the rubber boot end of the ignition wires only (no dielectric grease on the distributor end, although the new distributor cap connectors did come very slightly greased).
Thank you for blessing us with knowledge 🫡
check for a crack on coil across by hi volt terminal if you have cap off causes intermittently probs when it rains .bead of silicon or replace it . can change on car.
Super helpful demo and tips. Is that a vacuum hose? What kind or size of hose should I look for or ask for at the parts store or at Home Depot? Thank you.
ourlegacy just use a telescoping magnet to remove the plugs. You can buy at any auto parts.
Excellent!!!, Im looking for this!! thanks dude!!
I went ahead and changed the rotor and distributor cap on my 95 geo today, just like in the video, put it back in the right order, It started up and drove around fine for about 2 hours. The engine light came on and my car would stop for a sec while driving, it also came to a complete stop. I unclamped the filter box and moved it aside to have access to the cap, why is it acting up like this? It was very misty today, moisture inside the cap or did is it something with the air filter cap. It's going to be cold out I really do not want to have to take the dis. cap off again.
Do have an auto zone or part store near you that will let you use a tester to test your car to see what the engine light means. Napa auto I think loans tools. The tester will put up a number that you can ask Google what it means or if the tester is awesome it will tell you right then on screen. Also if you have a 1994 Geo like mine or earlier you will need a specific tester. there is a rectangular plug just under the dash near the steering column that you plug into. And or get one at Amazon cheap one. The air intake box should have no bearing on running. unless its pushing on some wiring.
Where do you order your Distributor Cap and Rotor? Do you find a difference b/t the one you use and Toyota OEM Distributor Cap and Rotor?
After installing the rotor and distributor cap, did you say we need to adjust for timing or not?
+ourlegacy I got the parts at Auto zone. I think I will order online next time. No you do not need to change timing but if you can it is worth checking. it runs ok on this cao and rotor. it is a Toyota Corolla on the inside.
i have a problem with the spark plug wires they wont come out, i pulled them pretty hard but they just wont give, do they have a screw or something that i need to take off before pulling them? and i have the exact same model as your, actually my little car is white too.
I would run it to get it alittle warm than pull up the boot some and spray lots of lube juice of your choice in the hole. And try some twisting of the boot to. Being ruber to ceramic stuck I would start with "Triflow" "WD40" something like that not so much for rusted parts lube like "PBblast". I have got a stuck one off my tuck with PB blast.
Why wouldn't you change the spark plug wires too?
10:32 So it's running with 3 and 4 in the wrong position!!?
To adjust the timing you need a timing light hook it up to # 1 plug wire then shine it on timing mark on crank shaft pulley [passenger side] then loosen the two bolts holding the distributor turn to the Top Dead Center mark needed and retighten.
I have put this car at 21 BTC runs great now, I have no idea why it runs at 21 BTC. Timing belt slipped?
F it.
i,changed the plugs and wires ,it still cuts off when i put it in drive
lol i do the same i also remove them with a hose but now i get them out with a magnetic stick that thy sale a autozone
DONT YOU THINK YOU PUT THAT PLUG ON A LIIIIIIIIIIIIIITTLE TO TIGHT
I changed them first.
I see you like putting the wrong plugs in your motor with a gap of.044. nice. btw 98-02 doesnt have a cap and rotor. you're just another guy sharing the wrong info on the internet. Thanks!
Get bent. I am working on a "1994" not 98-02 you're just another guy not listening to the intro or even watching the video to see it has a distributor. Your welcome, now we know your not a mechanic even one in the back yard. You waste of our time with your stupidity.
@@LSESSII does a 1997 have a distributor? I have a 1.8 Corolla.
The gap spec in my hanes manual says .032. Why did you gap yours at .044?