Here are the changes I've made so far: I ended up getting a new budget wheelset and putting a 12s L-twoo derailleur and kept the 2x. I live in New England and we've got HILLS. I did a new seat post and seat. Satori firebird bar. Tpu tubes. Rear rack. new brake pads. Meroca suspension stem. I'm about $550 into the changes so far. I'm probably going to change the cranks and BB to something lighter and go for a gravel specific carbon fiber fork. I intend to use it for some touring on the rail trails. I've gotten over 250 miles on it and just want to ride it more and more.
So you have $250 + $550 + quite possibly another $550 for "cranks and BB to something lighter and go for a gravel specific carbon fiber fork." = $1350, Before anyone else can say it, let me just say GOOD FOR YOU. Upgrades aren't always about cost, you have to factor in the enjoyment and satisfaction you get from working on, and customizing, your own bike. Making something uniquely yours is also part of the equation. As long as you can afford it, and you are having fun, then, GOOD FOR YOU!
@@Charlie-wt7ct you had me in the beginning. The amount of grief people have given me... i do one change per paycheck. I look for sales and i had a bunch of the stuff already since I've been planning a gravel build since last fall. This frame was just perfect for the build. I'd been looking for the right frame and this looked right, and has been.
@@LessISMoreHealthy You're right! In comparison, I'd much rather do what you do, than spend $1350 to attend a two hour basketball game just because Caitlyn Clark is in it. You're enjoyment will last for years. The basketball people are already depressed :>)
I would do light upgrades: 1.) Alloy seapost 2.) Handlebar tape to match your preference of grip, texture, and padding 3.) Pedals 4.) Saddle (if required or desired) 5.) IRD Cyclone 13-32T 7 speed freewheel for more range and durability (changing out the wheel for a freehub is too expensive and you don't need it if you aren't beating the heck out of the axle riding rocky/rough terrain). 6.) Sunrace M9 rear derailleur will index just fine to the LTWoo brifter since it's a Shimano 2:1 cable pull and has a clutch.
You can get 11-34 free wheels. That and bar tape put you around 300. Any more money and saving for a cross check or any other used cyclocross/touring bike is a better value.
@@ShinyUmbreon765 Those 11-34T freewheels are the "Megarange" style which the big jump to that 34T cog which I personally don't like. That 13-32T IRD freewheel has more even cog spacing and is much higher quality than anything else.
I've changed the brake pads to resin on this because the stock brakes squealed like Deliverance , upgraded the pedals, changed the seat post, saddle even though the stock is not bad IMO, and the stem to a riser and headset spacers.
Also have the Deliverance issue with my pads, and since I live in the countryside of Pennsyltucky, I'm starting to get looks. Do you mind dropping a link to the pads you swapped out?
I watched your original video, bought one, and have since done this: 1. Ltwoo R5 Hydraulic 2x9 groupset 2. Ixf hollow crankset and bottom bracket with 2x mounting 3. 38-52 front rings 4. Falcon FW946 13-46 9 speed freewheel 5. Shimano m5100 rear derailleur 6. 700x45c Terra Trails 7. Crank bros mtb pedals 8. Generic carbon seat post 9. Generic carbon 17 degree stem 10. Zoom floating 160mm rotors (front was constantly warped stock) Between ali express deals and marketplace I'm in just a tad over $500 for a $2000 spec bike. I love it.
A $250 budget in upgrades: 1 - Alloy seatpost (because those cheap steel thru-bolt clamps always slip); ~$15 2 - 1x alloy crankset; 40/42T are common ring sizes for gravel; ~$50 3 - Re-lace the rear wheel with a new hub so you can use a cassette; something like a RH-RS400 (if O.L.D. is 130) is only $30. A 135 O.L.D. hub is similar cost; $30 (~$85ish w/shop labor for them to lace it) - I'll lace it for free if you make it down to Pensacola area 4 - Microshift Acolyte rear derailleur or similar to add a clutch, yes 8 speed will work with 7 speed shifter, lockout the last gear with limit screw; $30 5 - 12-46T 8spd Acolyte Cassette, yes 8 speed will work with 7 speed shifters as above; $35 6 - Carbon fork (huge upgrade to long-term comfort over alloy fork); ~$100 for a Hylix/Toseek/etc ------ BONUS, but inevitable - Good set of largest tires possible that fit into frame and convert wheels to tubeless. Price ???. All tires need changed eventually, no need to rush into it as a first purchase and waste the budget.
Some of those HB-100 cable actuated hydraulic brakes. The piston on each side of the rotor gets rid of that adjustment you need to do with a purely mechanical brake and gives you a bit more stopping power.
Hey man! I have LOVED your channel for a long time - you were the reason why I bought the Priority L-Train and the State Bicycle Co. Core-Line. I've been riding for many years now and have gotten into gravel and touring bikes since -- what I would recommend for upgrades are the following items: 1.) Upgrading the touch points is probably the most important item. Change out the saddle and bar tape if you're not feeling comfortable on the bike! 2.) You could run a dropper post, but I've seen that the trend now is to have a suspension seatpost. Redshift makes great ones. 3.) If you want to get weird with it (which you should!), I'd actually swap out the brifter set-up for regular drop bar levels and bar-end shifters. You'll be able to swap out different components in your drivetrain and make it all work so long as you're running friction, or you can use indexed if everything matches up! 4.) You've got the tire clearance and mounts - add some Fenders and a Front/Rear rack to the bike!
Kev, my Walmart in Jasper AL has a flat bar version of the G.1. And get this, it comes with an 8 speed HG style cassette on a free hub. And the rear mech is an Altus. One step up from the Tourney. And still a crazy low $248 out the door. All the contact points suck of course. But the front is a 1X. Albeit a cheap one with a plastic guard.
hey Kev, huge fan of your channel. I used to be an avid mountain biker, then I suffered an ACL to the knee and retired biking for some years (3 or 4) picking up gravel riding boosted my motivation which got me back into biking/cycling and built my confidence back up to where I now go mountain biking again. I own now 3 and half bikes (of various kinds) that I completely built from parts myself inspired from this channel. For a gravel I recommend as some others did a 1x setup. Note that for mountain bikes a typical 1x is a 30-38 tooth chain ring, on gravel this is 40-46 tooth chainrings. rear you can get some old school L-Two, or Sensah 11 speed stuff (they make 12 speed drives but those would be more expensive) (PS: Sensah makes both Shimano and SRAM compatible stuff you just need to take care of the naming scheme). If you even go more the used market instead of buying the whole set, I would recommend doing a weird front wheel hydraulic brake, rear wheel mechanical brake mashup. This is because even on gravel the name of the game is speed, and good front braking is very important. Pedals, Pedals, Pedals!! The seatpost is a good upgrade but mostly just the saddle because gravel rides are all about the distance and you need to make sure you can sit down for hours on that saddle. Now yes you could upgrade the fork, people in the gravel/road bike world love to swap their forks for carbon ones (plenty on the Chinese market) but that definitely comes second to all the stuff mentioned above. And personally, I love me a nicely crafted steel fork, acts like mini suspension and makes the ride smoother. That's mostly it, I would love to help out if you ever need it. Keep up the good work and the amazing videos man!
I have this bike. First thing is lights because I ride at night. After that, cable over hydraulic disc brakes for 40 bucks on amazon. Then I did add the megarange cassette but not everyone needs that.
1) Carbon seatpost with offset. Makes ride so much more comfortable. And its light. Elita one on ali is around 30 bucks. And of very good quality. 2) TPU inner tubes. Around 20 bucks for a pair. 3) compressionless brake cables from Jagwire. With $50 price tag they are often seen as a gimmick. But can actually transform your mechanical brakes into something you like.
I just bought this bike (in small) for my daughter. I've been noodling around with upgrades for it, but she really likes it the way it is. Changed the seatpost and the seat to something better and got her some pnw pedals. I think I'm just going to let her ride it until she breaks parts and then upgrade.
Upgraded my brakes to hybrid brakes. They're hydrolic calipers with mechanical pull. They cost $20 and better than all mechanical brakes but still not as strong as hydrolics. I also added a carbon seatpost , mega range freewheel, and swapped the tires out for lighter tires and TPU tubes. Ended up dropping about 3.5lbs. Better braking and little more range. Total cost was about $65.
I like the concept of “hybrid” brakes. A simple upgrade without being necessary to replace the entire system, especially if the controls are already to your liking. I’m not concerned with dropping weight everywhere. I did order an alloy seat post for fit and ease of adjustment with only an Allen wrench. But the weight saving are a benefit that it offsets the extra crap that I carry with me and negates the need to carry an additional wrench. I ordered some tpu tubes for spares to use on longer excursions or group rides since they weigh less and take up less space. But I’ve not had any experience with them.
I'm putting a Mircoshift advent X on the Grit. I saw that Mircoshift just came out with new groupset called Sword for gravel bikes. Kinda wish I would have waited because the Sword cables route through the back of the hood where as the Advent has the shift cable protruding from the side of the hood. For the Grit I put Redshift kitchen sink bars, pedals and turned it into a 1x. I actually just put some new 50c tires on cause the orginal were getting worn and I got a flat. The bigger tires made a huge difference in ride. From 40c to 50c, way more cushion. I'm going to keep it mechaincal disc brakes but upgrade to Avid BB7's. I tried to go budget and bought the shifters used, wheelset on sale, bars were on sale too. I put a suspension seat on mine. That's something you can do. Can't wait to see this build!
With regards to the drivetrain and brakes there are a few things that i could recommend: -You could keep the shifters and replace the RD with something like an Alivio, which is what I run on mine with a 1x chainring from China. If you still want to replace the brakes with something better you can get a (relatively) cheap set of semi-hydraulic disc brake calipers. This is the road i would go, as most fully-hydraulic setups are 11+ speed and would require a new rear wheel. -You could replace the drivetrain fully with some of the Chinese options from Sensah or LTwoo. LTwoo does make a 10-speed gravel hydraulic groupset.
In the spirit of keeping budget, I’d only change out the pedals to start with some Shimano SPDs. Get some good shoes that work with the SPD cleats, preferably double boa. I’d also invest in a proper bike fit. Ride it, enjoy it, break it, upgrade whatever breaks or fails first.
TRP hybrid mechanical line pull hydraulic disc calipers or Juin ones if you want a simpler brake upgrade. That's what many roadies and gravel people do for budget upgrade instead of full hydraulic replacing everything. With TRP or Juin, you just replace the caliper. But you only get like ~80% performance of real hydraulic. Only TRP HY/RD ones have large oil reservoir for ease of maintenance and bleeding, and are more reliable.
I would be looking at the 700C Wheelsets from CyclingDeal or Bucklos. That would open up the option for a cassette. If the bottom bracket wasn’t a sealed cartridge, then I would opt for that and a new crank.
I’d go 1x with Sensah SRX brifters and rear derailleur (of course that means a new rear wheel), 11-50 cassette, and Juin Tech cable pull hydraulic brakes. New saddle if your choice, SPD pedals, new bar tape.
I appreciate the honesty! I'm a huge fan of vintage steel as a roadie. I don't do much on off-road trails. I'm in north florida and climbs aren't a thing just like quality roads aren't a thing. Drivers sketch me out on roads that do have a clean bike lane. 😂 Having to jump between road, grass, gravel, and/or sidewalk is tough on 700x23. Flats/punctures are common so I decided to give a gravel bike a go. I picked her up this morning. ANYTIME I wonder about budget, big box cycling I come straight to your channel. Commenting, like, and a share before I go looking for your upgrade video! Thanks!
I got the small g.1 which doesn't actually say g.1 explorer anywhere on it. They seem to be inconsistent with the branding. LOL I've replaced the saddle with one that i got in the clearance aisle at the same Walmart where i got the bike. I paid $4 +tax for a Selle Royal Rio which, so far, seems to be more comfortable than the one that came with the bike. I also flipped the stem over so it angles up.
I got this same bike . Just as good as the expensive ones . Ive changed the sadle to much light and thinner profile . Changed Pedals for cycling shoes for better cadence . I removed the kickstand and reflective lights . Solid purchase i really like the smoothness of shifting . Im 5'7 and small frame is fine for me . The down side is the brakes , not a fan of disks.
So i have done a gravel bike build with the mongoose grit in the past. Unfortunately my bike frame got totaled when a car ran a red light and hit me at 45mph. Spent 6 days in the icu 2 weeks in inpatient physicalcand occupational therapy. Then spent 3 months in intensive outpatient pt and ot 3 days a week. My top three upgrades i have that i would start with are 1. Sensah hrd 1x11. It is a fantastic hydraulic drivetrain for 300$ and it has a clutch. It survived the above mentioned crash 2. Raceworks carbon crankset. 135$ with bb and chainring Make sure you get the 1 though bolt version through as the old ones with 2 pinch bolts had a tendency to crack. The through bolt version survived the above mentioned crash 3. Toseek carbon bar and seatpost. 75$ for the pair. They are fantastic and they survived the above mentioned crash. These upgrades will drop 2-3 pounds and be more reliable
@KevCentral thankfully yes. I will Need back surgery in 5 to 10 years but at this point I am back on the trail. Mostly ride mtb trails but gravel biking is my weekly work out
I think anyone that is buying this, needs to be prpared to upgrade the Brakes. I found the Braking and the Shifting to be the weakest points of this model. I went with "Hybrid" cable actuated Hydraulic brakes. I have a set of 29" wheels on the way (They allegedly fit well). I also added a very inexpensive Suspension seat post instead of a dropper. Looking for options on the crankset..
I enjoy experimenting with the contact points. Pedals, saddle, and handlebar shapes. Ritchey handlebars are cheap enough to try a couple. Beyond that, maybe suspension stem or seatpost. Great videos thanks!
I do have this bike (and completed the entire 100 miles in June fundraiser for the AHA on it). So far all I've done is contact points and an under saddle bag, with every parts swapped on being borrowed from my other bikes (parts you already have are very budget friendly 🤪) except for a new Buclose seatpost and clamp. It's been an excellent value and performs well above the price imo. My plans are a new rear wheel and either a 1x or 2x10 AdventX drivetrain swap, and to throw on a pair of Avid bb7 brakes that I already have on it (I think spending the $ on a hydraulic upgrade on a gravel bike is overkill for me). Looking forward to seeing what you do with yours, KevCentral 😁👍
I am still pretty new to gravel biking, but so far I've thrown on Zoom HB100 brakes(8/10 for value/performance/install convenience), TPU tubes, better seat and post, and pedals. I will probably do a bottom bracket and cassette down the road when these have some age on them, as my goal for this bike is efficiency so I can cover as much distance as possible for the minimal energy expenditure. The less energy I use, the further I can go
I upgraded the pedals, seat and seat post. I’ll keep the mechanical brakes. I’ll likely swap out the drive train to something a bit lighter and more visually appealing than the stock setup. But I just use it to ride around town so it works in its current state for everything I need.
Here's what I've done to my ozark trail vibe 27.5 -Shimano hydro disk brakes. -Crankbros highline dropper post. -Shimano trigger shifter (only because I upgraded to hydraulic brakes making it necessary) (the stock shifter is perfectly fine) -Some amazon metal pedals. I don't regret a penny. You're not going to find a bike comparable to mine for under $1300 and that's going to come with a much lower end dropper post. I 100% recommend the vibe and this upgrade path
With mine, I for a shorter stem that angles up and a new seatpost and Selle Royal Lata seat from Walmart. I'm also looking at hydraulic brakes that are cable actuated. This way you can keep the brifters which work really well. Can't wait to see what you do!
For my purposes of mixed pavement/gravel use, I would probably look into a hybrid road/gravel tire with a flat patch down the center for smoother rolling and less rolling resistance. Otherwise my thought would be to maybe swap out the rear wheel for a cassette with wider range than the stock freewheel and maybe a different rear derailleur if needed for that range
My personal upgrade would be quill stem shifters with cross handlebar brake levers for more upright riding position and then tuck in for speed. So I would keep the dropbars. I would also keep the stock mechanical brakes and learn to adjust them. I can remove my front wheel and put it back in without readjusting my cheap mechanical brakes. My 14-28T freewheel has enough range for hills and city biking with the 38/48T chainring. I wouldn't bother with a cartridge BB or freehub, etc. I would do those shift/handlebar cross levers mods and then ride the heck out of it as I'm doing now with my kent nazz gravel bike.
Every Tool Is Designed to do a Specific Job and Microshift gear sets w/Shifters are hard to beat. So just keep riding it until you decide what will help you on your ride? Like long flat farm roads road gearing is fine. But hills with extra weight will require better low end chainrings. So once you decide how many gears you need; so, you rule out better wheel hubs or wheel sets. Then work on more comfortable seats or shock post, to smooth out your woops? Because Tektro mechanical brakes are really dollar for dollar fine for a majority of rides.
This bike is definitely drawing a lot of attention! I love this bike, I have not made a gravel bike purchase yet but this one here really pull me away from my original plan
Hey Kev! It’s funny seeing all the comments throwing your own advice back at you in terms of where to start upgrading. Must be a good feeling! My boyfriend (who’s deployed 😢) bought me this bike before he left so I would have a good outlet for the six months. Personally, for upgrades I’d like to see some more unique options. I’m talking a Brifter activated dropper post for 1X conversions, testing out the best value hybrid hydraulic calipers, best value suspension stem, and a recommended set of hybrid pedals (flats on one side, SPD on the other).
The only things I have changed on my G.1 Explorer was a bike computer, fooker pedals, and a dropper post! I even kept the stock saddle! I don't plan on changing or upgrading anything else on it until it breaks! I am happy with my bike just the way it is! Btw, I also installed some cheap fenders that work well.
I used to have a good friend of mine that was very heavily into gravel biking. He got to a point where all he wanted to do was bike pack, so he bought like maybe $1,000 with an upgrades. But one thing that I thought was cool is he bought leaf spring suspension for his front forks. And he always ran cable disc brakes. He wanted to have stuff that he could trail maintenance, he set a hydraulic, or air fork/stantion would be difficult to repair in the forest, he says he understands that he can't repair the leaf springs. But it's a lot more rigid and a lot more capable of taking abuse. And it's the same thing with the mechanical disc brakes. He says he can carry three or four new lines with him, and not have to worry about lugging around fluid or anything. I get what he's saying, but he also wears like a 35 lb backpack when he goes on these 50 mile several day excursions
Im eyeing bars first. But then looking at microshift sword 1x10 shifters which keep the mechanical brakes. Then advent x mech. Not sure on crank and chainring though. The whole chain line thing confuses me. So far I did walmart seat and ozark trail metal pedals. Then a shorter but taller stem.
I’ve got one of these. So far I changed the seat post to an aluminum one with a better adjustment system and a wtb volt seat I had that I had never used. I considered changing the fork out for a carbon fork like my road bike. I decided I didn’t want to make it a “glorified road bike” like I already have. I’m planning on keeping the steel for so I can keep some of the “character” of the bike. I’m planning on building a new wheel set. I’d like to put more gears but don’t want to put a ton of money into it. I’d like to try out a microshift sword or Shimano group set on it. My road bike has Shimano and I like how the shifters work. The downside about changing groupset is the shifter/brake levers are expensive compared to mtb controls. I’m going to change the tires out for something better but haven’t decided what yet. I’m going to ride pavement and gravel so something that works decent for both. I am going to upgrade the brakes. Probably going with compressionless housing and some better mechanical disc to be determined.
Gearing. Change to a 14-34. Probably need a new chain as well. Or convert to a 1×. Leave mech brakes alone. New seat and seat post. Possibly true gravel bars like redshift.
first the easy things, pedals, seat post, saddle. Walmart has some Ozark trail pedals that actually look good. The brakes could be a lot better, that would be a smart upgrade. I'd really like to make mine like a 1x 9 or 10, but that means new wheels, gears, derailleur, shifter. I'm thinking about trying a 1x8 with just a new wheel and cassette, seeing if I can get one more click out of the existing shifter and derailleur. I've contemplated adding a front suspension fork just to make it a little better on slightly rougher terrain.
Hello. Like always, I enjoy your content. I just want to let you know that ozark trail ridge MTB is upgraded at my local Walmart: New external cable routing, new derailleur, new handlebar, new chainring, and more.
I would start with the seat post, seat post clamp and change out the bar tape with some thicker tape like maybe the Wolf 🐺 Tooth bar tape for starters.
I personally would upgrade to hydraulic, but it would be pricey unless you go with one of those cheap Chinese brifters from Ali-Express. I can't speak to the quality of those. I will say though that a lot of people go with mechanical in gravel/touring applications and are happy with it. There are some good low-cost options there like the Microshift Sword. I wouldn't do a dropper. Ditch the kickstand. New wheel set with cassette
Ltwoo just redesigned their mechanical shifters so you can reach the thumb shifter while in the drops. Similar to their hydraulic versions. Might be worth looking into that.
Personally I'd prioritise a few changes to improve performance. That drivetrain works but I always swap out heavy chainsets. I bought an excellent 1x from Ali Express. If you did go 1x there are hacks to use the front shifter for a dropper. Those wheels are going to be dull. If you can, I'd source either a good quality 700c or 650b wheel set. The 650b option requires you to run bigger tyres (there's always been room when I've tried this but I may have been lucky) and I've found that both practical and comfortable. A dropper and bigger tyres mean you're less restricted on off-road routes.
I have the same bike. I put a carbon fork and seat post on my i bought off amazon. Im going to upgrade my drive train with a 11 speed and im going to do a 1x crank. or i might just do a crank. I used the stock wheels and went tubeless. i just ordered new dropbars that are carbon. Everything i done to mine cost 275.00. After doing all the changes and ordering new parts the bike weighed 29lbs when i bought it. Now it weighs 26.7lbs. I did have to change the tires to tubeless tires> Now its the best bike i have.
It may have already been recommended, Falcon FW-740, or shimano Tourney TZ-500 Megarange. With those specific Freewheels, no need to change the shifters. Hollowtec knock-off, iXF crankset, snail 32-52. Idk, just throwing ideas around. Maybe some tannus armour?
Carbon seat post, 1x drivetrain with hydraulic disc brakes, and remove the kick stand. You can get 11 speed SRAM Apex for the 1x build. Perhaps you can try on of the redshift suspension stems as well.
there are hybrid cable operated hydraulic brake calipers ava i have them on my mtn bike!!! and a 700c suspension fork, i have one on my diamond back gravel bike!!!
1. Wheels: Either lace in a freehub or get a new set of wheels. Otherwise, your limited to 7 speeds. Used $50-$100. New: $150-$250. And I'll say it again: If they would have just went with a freehub instead of a freewheel....hopefully they will hear the cries. 2. Brakes: Change the pads or go with a Chinese mech to hydro like Juin-tec/Zoom/Xtec. $10-$20 for pads or $50 for calipers. 3. Brifters (brake-shifter) These days there are quite a few low-cost options from brands like Sensah, Microshift and LTWOO, I'm seeing 9 speed Sensah on ebay for $85 shipped in the US. I'm a huge fan of Sora but (unless you can find a used set) they can be pricey for a budget build. Compatibility is something to consider, and one advantage of Sora or Shimano 9 speed is that road bike brifters are compatible with mtb derailleurs. Another thing to add is that you might be able to just keep the left side shifter and front derailleur and then buy the only the right side shifter. That is, if the right side brifter, with more speeds, is modeled the same in a If you're a masochist go with bar end shifters...yuck. 4. Rear cassette: Go with an 11-34. $30 to $60 5. Don't forget a chain: $20-$30. 6. I highly suggest a four bolt, double bcd (64-96/104). Popular in the 2000's they are cheap, easy to find with multiple bb options and potentially infinite gearing options. You can do 1x, 2x and 3x but I highly suggest 2x with a 24t low (you can go as low as 22t) and a 38t high. I'm seeing taper fit for under $40 shipped. 7. Pedals: Pedals are a preference item. You probably have set on something else but one thing to consider with a distance-oriented bike is clip in pedals. Look for SPD pedals and go with MTB shoes 8. Seat post: Chinese carbon: $20? 9. Seat: Again preference, but there are some interesting options out there like 3d printed seats that can be cheap, light and comfortable for as little as $30. 10. Derailleurs: Again, lots of options but if you stick with an 11-34 cassette and 2x you'll have more options. For the sake of compatibility do your home work or match the brand to your chosen brifter. If you're going 1x you have to use a clutched D or you risk a nut basher from a chain drop. $30-$50. 11. Tires: I don't recall what the OT will fit but a 42c is a great compromise between speed and comfort. It's 700c so there are quite a few options out there. However, new tires are spendy so you may want to just stick with the stock tires. 12. Fork: This is a head scratcher. The head tube accepts a tapered steerer tube fork but the wheel set is QR. You can and should upgrade the wheels but QR, disc, tapered forks are very limited if not unobtainium. You might be able to find a fork with a straight steerer tube and use a 1.25" to 1.5" adapter at the base. The other way to go is to go with a thru axle fork and compatible wheel. You might be able to find a used wheel set with QR rear and thru front hubs. Even though a potential headache it is worth considering as the stock for at 3.4 lbs is a boat anchor. A channel by the name of "JUST MATT" just did a conversion with a thru axle fork. 13. Bike: Just spend the money and buy a better bike. I'm only mostly kidding/serious. You could piece meal the OT into a pretty good bike but there are options out there worth looking at from brands like Poseidon and Salsa (Journeyman). I think if you're doing all new stuff it's going to add up. Time is on your side if you're ok with a slow build but if you have the money you might want to consider hitting the fast forward button. The main thing is getting into a bike with a frameset that is more easily expanded on and a bike like the OT is a mix of standards like tapered and QR. If you're like me and are willing to go with a mix of used and new (as well as OH parts....On Hand) you might be able to come in at $600 to $800 with the bike being a "decent" 25-27lbs. P.S. A great resource for reviews budget road parts and bikes is the channel "Trace Velo." (Give him a baguette for me).
I got one and love it, but I found the brakes to be loud and horrible. I found some Zoom DB680's that were $30 for rotors and calipers. They're a massive improvement since they're dual piston and still keep the bike budget.
I have an ozark trail g1, and honestly, I will change all the contact points from the seat to the handle bar tape and pedals. I'd also make it into a 1 by and put some pirelli cinturato gravel m tires that I got on special for 28 bucks par tire and make it into a winter bike. Honestly, it's good for a 250 dollar bike ( best I've seen in a long time at that price) but not for my long-distance cycling or off-road rides. My checkpoint alr driftless is my go-to gravel bike
I bought the Ozark Trail gravel bike about a week ago and I have gone on three lengthy rides. I think I would change the drivetrain first. The cranks are not very nice and the shifting is so so, not too quick. I probably won't change anything until something begins to drive me nuts like the front derailleur.
Pedals, alloy seat post, charge saddle. I already have a spare crankset so I would change that and lose the kick stand. Maybe a 34 tooth freewheel and that is about it. If you are going to put 500 dollars into it you might as well but a Poseidon Rosewood at 799.
Cable actuated Hydraulic calipers are most affordable. May have to go to MicroShift Sword for the best gravel groupset and definitely needs new wheelset to upgrade to larger cassette. I have a carbon fiber Canyon Grizl with the Rudy suspension fork and dropper with hydraulic brifters on GRX 820 and DT SUISSE wheels and it is the best bike I own! To upgrade the OT 700 G.1 to the same level you’d spend another 2K. Buy the best bike you can for the money in your pocket or use affirm to buy more bike over time.
I'd upgrade to hybrid brakes, like the Juin F1 or R1 setup(I live in the desert so the bigger Juins would be my pick) with upgraded rotors, like a Sram HS2(when on sale they are a great price) or TRP 2.0. You can keep the brifters. The get a Tranz-X Jumpseat dropper. If you shop it correctly that's only a $230-260 upgrade. Jumpseat is like $70-90 on marketplace and pinkbike or $110-120 new. Oh I would swap the front tires to a VIttoria Mezcal 44mm and keep the the other as a spare rear tire.
I'd go with 2 piston mechanical calipers, either suspension or dropper seatpost, pedals, and try to set up tubeless/new tires and wheelset for tubeless
What upgrades would you suggest if you were going to convert this to more of a road bike. I bought this for $70 but most of the gear is rusted but the frame is great!
A better group set for a better gear ratio, carbon seat post and handlebars to smooth road chatter. DT Swiss Wheels with Schwalbe gravel tires. No dropper is required and get rid of the kick stand.
I’d ride it for a time and see what breaks. My guess is, the BB will go first. Since “gravel” for me doesn’t equal MTB, brakes could be okay for a long time. So: 1. Drill holes for another bottle cage or two. 2. TPU tubes if you decided to not go tubeless. Tubeless is annoying for infrequent riders due to air loss. 3. carbon seatpost from ali 4. fenders; more rides (ex. when cloudy) = money better used 5. pedals 6. BB, therefore crank 7. RD Still some budget? 8. carbon fork Now I’d try to enable exploring and make the rides longer. 9. lights (battery), especially a bright front light since you’d be riding rural areas 10. bicycle computer; used Wahoo v1 maybe
1) Carbon fiber handlebars. This will make a world of difference in smoothing out micro vibrations that are characteristic of aluminum frames. 2) new wheels. This will allow you to get rid of the freewheel and go to a legitimate cassette. Plus a good wheel set makes a noticeable difference in pedaling efficiency. 3) get rid of the boat anchor seat post. 4) I agree hydraulic brakes are not critical for gravel biking. You just aggressive use brakes gravel biking unlike mountain biking.
Maybe a good $200 bike. But so many box store bikes kill off the joy of bikes for so many kids. My town bikes are cable disc and V brakes because I not burning down mountains. My touring bikes are hydro disc that will eventually have better cable disc. Disclaimer: I resto mod old bikes and do my own maintenance, and ride year around in NE Wyoming.
A Shwinn Commute seat from Target. It’s squishier than the Shwinn Commute seat from Walmart ( 2 different seats with the same name 🤦🏻) I also purchased a budget aluminum seat post. While weight savings is a benefit, I prefer being able to adjust the seat with an Allen wrench. I may experiment with a shorter stem to adjust for my reach. Beyond that I have no plans to modify it unless something breaks. The sprocket is ugly as sin, but works fine. The kickstand and reflectors were the first things we removed in the 80’s. But since I ride a mix of trails and urban areas, the rear mounted kickstands are convenient for me and respectful since the public doesn’t have to navigate around a bicycle sprawled about. I have a mixed fleet with hydraulic disks, cable disks and rim brakes. While there is a difference between them, they all work instinctively enough for me that I’ve no reason to “upgrade” just because. I’ve been enjoying my G1 and it’s found a rotation among my other bikes. I usually ride 15-23 miles per trip several times a week.
You could get semi-hydraulic brakes. I’d change the derailleur to a claris at least. Go 1x with an IXF crankset, and at least a freehub rear. All in, it shouldn’t cost that much.
Is the fork aluminum or steel? If it’s steel I’d definitely upgrade to aluminum. Same question for the seat post? I’d upgrade both of of those and then the wheel set to something with a cassette and lighter than stock. A lighter 1x crankset and a cassette with a 50t gear would be next on my list.
Great bike for the price but not worth upgrading except for maybe a Shimano MegaRange (freewheel) 13-34t and racks & bags. One of the things I like about this bike is that it can be locked up and not worried about (as much) so I'd leave it pretty much stock. Realistically this won't stay budget with a major drivetrain upgrade because it'd require a new wheel.
You can find a used 7 speed 29 wheels and 2 speed cranks from people who upgrade their bikes. I have a set that would be perfect for this bike, and the ONLY reason I would think about getting one. Sink too much into upgrades, and you would be much better off starting with a used bike in the proper size and a far better fork.
I don't know much about the L-Twoo R2 groupset but assume the cable pull ratio for the brakes is the same as for caliper brakes so you can't freely upgrade the disc brake mechanisms unless you can find better road brake cable disc mechanisms. I'm guessing the best upgrade there is increasing the rotor size with new adapters for 180m or 203mm rotors which could be a relatively cheap upgrade for a big upgrade in stopping power. The R2 groupset is just a basic road groupset. I would also replace the rear wheel with a freehub rear wheel and get a 7 speed cassette maybe 11-34T. The current wheel is very weak as it has a quick release but a freewheel so could easily snap in the hub if treated badly. A freehub would be much stronger and would shift much better as it wouldn't wobble like a freewheel. Unfortunately there is limited choice in 7 speed cassettes so probably not suitable for a 1x conversion as you won't be able to get a big enough cassette. Lastly I would replace the rear derailleur with something higher quality but this assumes the L-Twoo current derailleur is Shimano compatible. I would probably go with a mountain bike derailleur like a Acera or whatever you can find at a good price. I tend to use tyres until their worn out even if I dislike them and those tyres look pretty good to me. For me a freehub is the entry point of a decent bike, its when bikes go to a higher level of quality so I like to upgrade bikes with freehubs that is always my first upgrade however I'm a very heavy rider so have to make upgrades for strength. I've written that so you understand my motivation as a lighter rider may make different choices especially making the bike lighter. I personally wouldn't make expensive upgrades to the bike I feel it just needs a few minor upgrades to maximise its performance without putting silly money into it which would have been better spent buying a better bike in the first place. I know some people on mountain bikes but a large rotor on the front so when going downhill when maximum pressure is on the front tyre they have greater braking force and sometimes leave the rear with a smaller rotor to give them greater modulation but this is normally with hydraulic brakes but still feel maybe a larger rotor on the front is all you need just for downhill improved braking where the weight distribution of the rider changes to the front wheel.
Also although I've never seen it done by Kev I reckon its about time you did an ebike conversion on one of your bikes and this would be an easy conversion I feel.
Run it till something breaks then upgrade to better components. At first put money into racks and bags. Always the first changes I make are seat/saddle and peddles.
Amazon just seems to be the go to for upgrades for budget bikes... 1- VG Sports 9 speed Freewheel 11-36 2 - CNC (LTWoo) 9 speed RD 3 - LTWoo Brifters 2x9 4 - Suspension Seatpost (saddle too maybe??) 5 - Carbon Fork (bottom headset cup adapter required for tapered steered) or front suspension fork with a 30mm - 50mm travel such as a Suntour NX1 700c 6 - Shimano, tektro, or promax mechanical brakes You will be at the $700 area just with the upgrades I mentioned without changing the wheels and if you stick with the freewheel hub. VG Sports on Amazon has freewheels from 6 - 11 speed which is unique as I haven't seen any UA-camr upgrade a "freewheel" as they always upgrade the wheels to be able to use HG cassettes. If you still have a bit more spending money then I would upgrade the crank and chainrings to 46/34 or 44/32....
I'd put good tires on that bike. On the fence re: mech disc brakes. On my gravel bike they are fine; no need to upgrade yet. On my emtb, they were frighteningly awful. After basically having to ditch my bike, next day, I upgraded to 4 piston.
I ride my MTB on gravel.... To get to trail. Definitely a dropper. I'm kind of only fixing what doesn't work, but I'd end up trying the wider , more flared bars. As the drive train wears out, id upgrade . I'm guessing that would require a wheel set. I ride XXl bikes or a 63 in road so this Ozark trail would be a bad fit for me . I like the idea of an evil chamois hagar though. Might fit in xl
I know at 248 this is a great price, and with its internal cable routing and extra mount points beat out the Kent bohe at the same price. But is it worth spending 378 (+130 dollars, more than 50%) of the the G1...
Here are the changes I've made so far: I ended up getting a new budget wheelset and putting a 12s L-twoo derailleur and kept the 2x. I live in New England and we've got HILLS. I did a new seat post and seat. Satori firebird bar. Tpu tubes. Rear rack. new brake pads. Meroca suspension stem. I'm about $550 into the changes so far. I'm probably going to change the cranks and BB to something lighter and go for a gravel specific carbon fiber fork. I intend to use it for some touring on the rail trails. I've gotten over 250 miles on it and just want to ride it more and more.
Super! Thanks for sharing
So you have $250 + $550 + quite possibly another $550 for "cranks and BB to something lighter and go for a gravel specific carbon fiber fork." = $1350, Before anyone else can say it, let me just say GOOD FOR YOU. Upgrades aren't always about cost, you have to factor in the enjoyment and satisfaction you get from working on, and customizing, your own bike. Making something uniquely yours is also part of the equation. As long as you can afford it, and you are having fun, then, GOOD FOR YOU!
@@Charlie-wt7ct you had me in the beginning. The amount of grief people have given me... i do one change per paycheck. I look for sales and i had a bunch of the stuff already since I've been planning a gravel build since last fall. This frame was just perfect for the build. I'd been looking for the right frame and this looked right, and has been.
@@LessISMoreHealthy You're right! In comparison, I'd much rather do what you do, than spend $1350 to attend a two hour basketball game just because Caitlyn Clark is in it. You're enjoyment will last for years. The basketball people are already depressed :>)
Or better yet, do what I did I get a used ALR checkpoint. There is a point where you are just chasing your tail.
I would do light upgrades:
1.) Alloy seapost
2.) Handlebar tape to match your preference of grip, texture, and padding
3.) Pedals
4.) Saddle (if required or desired)
5.) IRD Cyclone 13-32T 7 speed freewheel for more range and durability (changing out the wheel for a freehub is too expensive and you don't need it if you aren't beating the heck out of the axle riding rocky/rough terrain).
6.) Sunrace M9 rear derailleur will index just fine to the LTWoo brifter since it's a Shimano 2:1 cable pull and has a clutch.
Yeah the seatpost is a must, I heard it was like 3lbs on this thing
The stock seat and seatpost is 835 grams, a new budget carbon replacement is 335 grams. That's a savings of 500 grams or 17.64 ounces.
You can get 11-34 free wheels. That and bar tape put you around 300. Any more money and saving for a cross check or any other used cyclocross/touring bike is a better value.
@@ShinyUmbreon765 Those 11-34T freewheels are the "Megarange" style which the big jump to that 34T cog which I personally don't like. That 13-32T IRD freewheel has more even cog spacing and is much higher quality than anything else.
hopefully your knock off steerer tube won't fail on you on a downhill!
I've changed the brake pads to resin on this because the stock brakes squealed like Deliverance , upgraded the pedals, changed the seat post, saddle even though the stock is not bad IMO, and the stem to a riser and headset spacers.
🐖😂
Squealed like deliverance! 😅🤣😂
Also have the Deliverance issue with my pads, and since I live in the countryside of Pennsyltucky, I'm starting to get looks. Do you mind dropping a link to the pads you swapped out?
Can you share a link to the replacement pads please?
I watched your original video, bought one, and have since done this:
1. Ltwoo R5 Hydraulic 2x9 groupset
2. Ixf hollow crankset and bottom bracket with 2x mounting
3. 38-52 front rings
4. Falcon FW946 13-46 9 speed freewheel
5. Shimano m5100 rear derailleur
6. 700x45c Terra Trails
7. Crank bros mtb pedals
8. Generic carbon seat post
9. Generic carbon 17 degree stem
10. Zoom floating 160mm rotors (front was constantly warped stock)
Between ali express deals and marketplace I'm in just a tad over $500 for a $2000 spec bike.
I love it.
A $250 budget in upgrades:
1 - Alloy seatpost (because those cheap steel thru-bolt clamps always slip); ~$15
2 - 1x alloy crankset; 40/42T are common ring sizes for gravel; ~$50
3 - Re-lace the rear wheel with a new hub so you can use a cassette; something like a RH-RS400 (if O.L.D. is 130) is only $30. A 135 O.L.D. hub is similar cost; $30 (~$85ish w/shop labor for them to lace it) - I'll lace it for free if you make it down to Pensacola area
4 - Microshift Acolyte rear derailleur or similar to add a clutch, yes 8 speed will work with 7 speed shifter, lockout the last gear with limit screw; $30
5 - 12-46T 8spd Acolyte Cassette, yes 8 speed will work with 7 speed shifters as above; $35
6 - Carbon fork (huge upgrade to long-term comfort over alloy fork); ~$100 for a Hylix/Toseek/etc
------
BONUS, but inevitable - Good set of largest tires possible that fit into frame and convert wheels to tubeless. Price ???. All tires need changed eventually, no need to rush into it as a first purchase and waste the budget.
Some of those HB-100 cable actuated hydraulic brakes. The piston on each side of the rotor gets rid of that adjustment you need to do with a purely mechanical brake and gives you a bit more stopping power.
Hey man! I have LOVED your channel for a long time - you were the reason why I bought the Priority L-Train and the State Bicycle Co. Core-Line. I've been riding for many years now and have gotten into gravel and touring bikes since -- what I would recommend for upgrades are the following items:
1.) Upgrading the touch points is probably the most important item. Change out the saddle and bar tape if you're not feeling comfortable on the bike!
2.) You could run a dropper post, but I've seen that the trend now is to have a suspension seatpost. Redshift makes great ones.
3.) If you want to get weird with it (which you should!), I'd actually swap out the brifter set-up for regular drop bar levels and bar-end shifters. You'll be able to swap out different components in your drivetrain and make it all work so long as you're running friction, or you can use indexed if everything matches up!
4.) You've got the tire clearance and mounts - add some Fenders and a Front/Rear rack to the bike!
Thanks for being here and for sharing
This comment section is rockin! So many good ideas. Thanks for sharing!
Kev, my Walmart in Jasper AL has a flat bar version of the G.1. And get this, it comes with an 8 speed HG style cassette on a free hub. And the rear mech is an Altus. One step up from the Tourney. And still a crazy low $248 out the door. All the contact points suck of course. But the front is a 1X. Albeit a cheap one with a plastic guard.
hey Kev, huge fan of your channel. I used to be an avid mountain biker, then I suffered an ACL to the knee and retired biking for some years (3 or 4) picking up gravel riding boosted my motivation which got me back into biking/cycling and built my confidence back up to where I now go mountain biking again. I own now 3 and half bikes (of various kinds) that I completely built from parts myself inspired from this channel. For a gravel I recommend as some others did a 1x setup. Note that for mountain bikes a typical 1x is a 30-38 tooth chain ring, on gravel this is 40-46 tooth chainrings. rear you can get some old school L-Two, or Sensah 11 speed stuff (they make 12 speed drives but those would be more expensive) (PS: Sensah makes both Shimano and SRAM compatible stuff you just need to take care of the naming scheme). If you even go more the used market instead of buying the whole set, I would recommend doing a weird front wheel hydraulic brake, rear wheel mechanical brake mashup. This is because even on gravel the name of the game is speed, and good front braking is very important. Pedals, Pedals, Pedals!! The seatpost is a good upgrade but mostly just the saddle because gravel rides are all about the distance and you need to make sure you can sit down for hours on that saddle. Now yes you could upgrade the fork, people in the gravel/road bike world love to swap their forks for carbon ones (plenty on the Chinese market) but that definitely comes second to all the stuff mentioned above. And personally, I love me a nicely crafted steel fork, acts like mini suspension and makes the ride smoother. That's mostly it, I would love to help out if you ever need it. Keep up the good work and the amazing videos man!
Awesome story and upgrades. Thanks for sharing
I have this bike. First thing is lights because I ride at night. After that, cable over hydraulic disc brakes for 40 bucks on amazon. Then I did add the megarange cassette but not everyone needs that.
yo i have this bike and my brakes suck can you reccomend what cable over hydraulic disc brakes that's 40 bucks
1) Carbon seatpost with offset. Makes ride so much more comfortable. And its light. Elita one on ali is around 30 bucks. And of very good quality.
2) TPU inner tubes. Around 20 bucks for a pair.
3) compressionless brake cables from Jagwire. With $50 price tag they are often seen as a gimmick. But can actually transform your mechanical brakes into something you like.
Offset?
Why does a carbon seatpost with offset make a ride more comfortable?
@@thecreationtrio because the geometry wasnt right in the first place
I just bought this bike (in small) for my daughter. I've been noodling around with upgrades for it, but she really likes it the way it is. Changed the seatpost and the seat to something better and got her some pnw pedals. I think I'm just going to let her ride it until she breaks parts and then upgrade.
Size is the seatpost?
@@markbundy50 27.2mm
Upgraded my brakes to hybrid brakes. They're hydrolic calipers with mechanical pull. They cost $20 and better than all mechanical brakes but still not as strong as hydrolics.
I also added a carbon seatpost , mega range freewheel, and swapped the tires out for lighter tires and TPU tubes.
Ended up dropping about 3.5lbs. Better braking and little more range.
Total cost was about $65.
I like the concept of “hybrid” brakes.
A simple upgrade without being necessary to replace the entire system, especially if the controls are already to your liking.
I’m not concerned with dropping weight everywhere. I did order an alloy seat post for fit and ease of adjustment with only an Allen wrench. But the weight saving are a benefit that it offsets the extra crap that I carry with me and negates the need to carry an additional wrench.
I ordered some tpu tubes for spares to use on longer excursions or group rides since they weigh less and take up less space. But I’ve not had any experience with them.
upgrade your front tires to something like the 44mm Vittoria Mezcal(on sale at a few sports). Real comfort and performance upgrade on gravel.
I'm putting a Mircoshift advent X on the Grit. I saw that Mircoshift just came out with new groupset called Sword for gravel bikes. Kinda wish I would have waited because the Sword cables route through the back of the hood where as the Advent has the shift cable protruding from the side of the hood. For the Grit I put Redshift kitchen sink bars, pedals and turned it into a 1x. I actually just put some new 50c tires on cause the orginal were getting worn and I got a flat. The bigger tires made a huge difference in ride. From 40c to 50c, way more cushion. I'm going to keep it mechaincal disc brakes but upgrade to Avid BB7's. I tried to go budget and bought the shifters used, wheelset on sale, bars were on sale too. I put a suspension seat on mine. That's something you can do. Can't wait to see this build!
Sword drivetrain, especially 2x, is hard to come by.
With regards to the drivetrain and brakes there are a few things that i could recommend:
-You could keep the shifters and replace the RD with something like an Alivio, which is what I run on mine with a 1x chainring from China. If you still want to replace the brakes with something better you can get a (relatively) cheap set of semi-hydraulic disc brake calipers. This is the road i would go, as most fully-hydraulic setups are 11+ speed and would require a new rear wheel.
-You could replace the drivetrain fully with some of the Chinese options from Sensah or LTwoo. LTwoo does make a 10-speed gravel hydraulic groupset.
In the spirit of keeping budget, I’d only change out the pedals to start with some Shimano SPDs. Get some good shoes that work with the SPD cleats, preferably double boa. I’d also invest in a proper bike fit.
Ride it, enjoy it, break it, upgrade whatever breaks or fails first.
TRP hybrid mechanical line pull hydraulic disc calipers or Juin ones if you want a simpler brake upgrade. That's what many roadies and gravel people do for budget upgrade instead of full hydraulic replacing everything. With TRP or Juin, you just replace the caliper. But you only get like ~80% performance of real hydraulic.
Only TRP HY/RD ones have large oil reservoir for ease of maintenance and bleeding, and are more reliable.
They're spendy though.
I would be looking at the 700C Wheelsets from CyclingDeal or Bucklos. That would open up the option for a cassette. If the bottom bracket wasn’t a sealed cartridge, then I would opt for that and a new crank.
I’d go 1x with Sensah SRX brifters and rear derailleur (of course that means a new rear wheel), 11-50 cassette, and Juin Tech cable pull hydraulic brakes. New saddle if your choice, SPD pedals, new bar tape.
I appreciate the honesty! I'm a huge fan of vintage steel as a roadie. I don't do much on off-road trails. I'm in north florida and climbs aren't a thing just like quality roads aren't a thing. Drivers sketch me out on roads that do have a clean bike lane. 😂 Having to jump between road, grass, gravel, and/or sidewalk is tough on 700x23. Flats/punctures are common so I decided to give a gravel bike a go. I picked her up this morning. ANYTIME I wonder about budget, big box cycling I come straight to your channel. Commenting, like, and a share before I go looking for your upgrade video! Thanks!
I got the small g.1 which doesn't actually say g.1 explorer anywhere on it. They seem to be inconsistent with the branding. LOL
I've replaced the saddle with one that i got in the clearance aisle at the same Walmart where i got the bike. I paid $4 +tax for a Selle Royal Rio which, so far, seems to be more comfortable than the one that came with the bike.
I also flipped the stem over so it angles up.
I got this same bike . Just as good as the expensive ones . Ive changed the sadle to much light and thinner profile . Changed Pedals for cycling shoes for better cadence . I removed the kickstand and reflective lights . Solid purchase i really like the smoothness of shifting . Im 5'7 and small frame is fine for me . The down side is the brakes , not a fan of disks.
Tune it as close to perfect as possible in stock form. Ride it until the wheels fall off then upgrade what ha been destroyed.
So i have done a gravel bike build with the mongoose grit in the past. Unfortunately my bike frame got totaled when a car ran a red light and hit me at 45mph. Spent 6 days in the icu 2 weeks in inpatient physicalcand occupational therapy. Then spent 3 months in intensive outpatient pt and ot 3 days a week. My top three upgrades i have that i would start with are
1. Sensah hrd 1x11. It is a fantastic hydraulic drivetrain for 300$ and it has a clutch. It survived the above mentioned crash
2. Raceworks carbon crankset. 135$ with bb and chainring Make sure you get the 1 though bolt version through as the old ones with 2 pinch bolts had a tendency to crack. The through bolt version survived the above mentioned crash
3. Toseek carbon bar and seatpost. 75$ for the pair. They are fantastic and they survived the above mentioned crash. These upgrades will drop 2-3 pounds and be more reliable
😳 are you able to ride again?
@KevCentral thankfully yes. I will Need back surgery in 5 to 10 years but at this point I am back on the trail. Mostly ride mtb trails but gravel biking is my weekly work out
First thing I would upgrade is the rear derailleur.
You should try the new Microshift Sword Black (cheaper 9-speed version of the Sword groupset).
I think anyone that is buying this, needs to be prpared to upgrade the Brakes. I found the Braking and the Shifting to be the weakest points of this model. I went with "Hybrid" cable actuated Hydraulic brakes. I have a set of 29" wheels on the way (They allegedly fit well). I also added a very inexpensive Suspension seat post instead of a dropper. Looking for options on the crankset..
I enjoy experimenting with the contact points. Pedals, saddle, and handlebar shapes. Ritchey handlebars are cheap enough to try a couple. Beyond that, maybe suspension stem or seatpost. Great videos thanks!
I would start whit the derailleur.
I have a shimano claris,affordable and reliable.
And i use a sram chain for super smooth riding and shifting.
I do have this bike (and completed the entire 100 miles in June fundraiser for the AHA on it). So far all I've done is contact points and an under saddle bag, with every parts swapped on being borrowed from my other bikes (parts you already have are very budget friendly 🤪) except for a new Buclose seatpost and clamp. It's been an excellent value and performs well above the price imo. My plans are a new rear wheel and either a 1x or 2x10 AdventX drivetrain swap, and to throw on a pair of Avid bb7 brakes that I already have on it (I think spending the $ on a hydraulic upgrade on a gravel bike is overkill for me). Looking forward to seeing what you do with yours, KevCentral 😁👍
I am still pretty new to gravel biking, but so far I've thrown on Zoom HB100 brakes(8/10 for value/performance/install convenience), TPU tubes, better seat and post, and pedals.
I will probably do a bottom bracket and cassette down the road when these have some age on them, as my goal for this bike is efficiency so I can cover as much distance as possible for the minimal energy expenditure. The less energy I use, the further I can go
I upgraded the pedals, seat and seat post. I’ll keep the mechanical brakes. I’ll likely swap out the drive train to something a bit lighter and more visually appealing than the stock setup. But I just use it to ride around town so it works in its current state for everything I need.
I would install narrower slicks, to reduce the weight.
replace the freewheel to 14-34
Here's what I've done to my ozark trail vibe 27.5
-Shimano hydro disk brakes.
-Crankbros highline dropper post.
-Shimano trigger shifter (only because I upgraded to hydraulic brakes making it necessary) (the stock shifter is perfectly fine)
-Some amazon metal pedals.
I don't regret a penny. You're not going to find a bike comparable to mine for under $1300 and that's going to come with a much lower end dropper post. I 100% recommend the vibe and this upgrade path
With mine, I for a shorter stem that angles up and a new seatpost and Selle Royal Lata seat from Walmart. I'm also looking at hydraulic brakes that are cable actuated. This way you can keep the brifters which work really well. Can't wait to see what you do!
I got those brakes as an upgrade. They don’t seem much better. I’d start by replacing the pads first.
For my purposes of mixed pavement/gravel use, I would probably look into a hybrid road/gravel tire with a flat patch down the center for smoother rolling and less rolling resistance. Otherwise my thought would be to maybe swap out the rear wheel for a cassette with wider range than the stock freewheel and maybe a different rear derailleur if needed for that range
My personal upgrade would be quill stem shifters with cross handlebar brake levers for more upright riding position and then tuck in for speed. So I would keep the dropbars. I would also keep the stock mechanical brakes and learn to adjust them. I can remove my front wheel and put it back in without readjusting my cheap mechanical brakes. My 14-28T freewheel has enough range for hills and city biking with the 38/48T chainring. I wouldn't bother with a cartridge BB or freehub, etc. I would do those shift/handlebar cross levers mods and then ride the heck out of it as I'm doing now with my kent nazz gravel bike.
I upgraded the pedals, shock absorber seat post and saddle. Mechanical brakes are working fine.
Every Tool Is Designed to do a Specific Job and Microshift gear sets w/Shifters are hard to beat. So just keep riding it until you decide what will help you on your ride? Like long flat farm roads road gearing is fine. But hills with extra weight will require better low end chainrings. So once you decide how many gears you need; so, you rule out better wheel hubs or wheel sets. Then work on more comfortable seats or shock post, to smooth out your woops? Because Tektro mechanical brakes are really dollar for dollar fine for a majority of rides.
This bike is definitely drawing a lot of attention! I love this bike, I have not made a gravel bike purchase yet but this one here really pull me away from my original plan
1. XC type Front Suspension fork
2. Hybrid type stem
3. Hybrid type straight bar
4. Widest street tires available for the stock rim.
I put trp spyre brakes on mine and an old xtr derailleur I had kicking around. 14-34 freewheel, seat and pedals.
adding a dropper post would be good and I would put better rims on
Hey Kev! It’s funny seeing all the comments throwing your own advice back at you in terms of where to start upgrading. Must be a good feeling!
My boyfriend (who’s deployed 😢) bought me this bike before he left so I would have a good outlet for the six months. Personally, for upgrades I’d like to see some more unique options. I’m talking a Brifter activated dropper post for 1X conversions, testing out the best value hybrid hydraulic calipers, best value suspension stem, and a recommended set of hybrid pedals (flats on one side, SPD on the other).
Let's just hope this thing selling so well encourages the makers to spec through axles on it, to make wheel upgrades easier and cheaper.
Heck, id go up to 300 for that lol
The only things I have changed on my G.1 Explorer was a bike computer, fooker pedals, and a dropper post! I even kept the stock saddle! I don't plan on changing or upgrading anything else on it until it breaks! I am happy with my bike just the way it is!
Btw, I also installed some cheap fenders that work well.
I used to have a good friend of mine that was very heavily into gravel biking. He got to a point where all he wanted to do was bike pack, so he bought like maybe $1,000 with an upgrades. But one thing that I thought was cool is he bought leaf spring suspension for his front forks. And he always ran cable disc brakes. He wanted to have stuff that he could trail maintenance, he set a hydraulic, or air fork/stantion would be difficult to repair in the forest, he says he understands that he can't repair the leaf springs. But it's a lot more rigid and a lot more capable of taking abuse. And it's the same thing with the mechanical disc brakes. He says he can carry three or four new lines with him, and not have to worry about lugging around fluid or anything. I get what he's saying, but he also wears like a 35 lb backpack when he goes on these 50 mile several day excursions
Im eyeing bars first. But then looking at microshift sword 1x10 shifters which keep the mechanical brakes. Then advent x mech. Not sure on crank and chainring though. The whole chain line thing confuses me. So far I did walmart seat and ozark trail metal pedals. Then a shorter but taller stem.
I’ve got one of these. So far I changed the seat post to an aluminum one with a better adjustment system and a wtb volt seat I had that I had never used. I considered changing the fork out for a carbon fork like my road bike. I decided I didn’t want to make it a “glorified road bike” like I already have. I’m planning on keeping the steel for so I can keep some of the “character” of the bike. I’m planning on building a new wheel set. I’d like to put more gears but don’t want to put a ton of money into it. I’d like to try out a microshift sword or Shimano group set on it. My road bike has Shimano and I like how the shifters work. The downside about changing groupset is the shifter/brake levers are expensive compared to mtb controls. I’m going to change the tires out for something better but haven’t decided what yet. I’m going to ride pavement and gravel so something that works decent for both. I am going to upgrade the brakes. Probably going with compressionless housing and some better mechanical disc to be determined.
Gearing. Change to a 14-34. Probably need a new chain as well. Or convert to a 1×. Leave mech brakes alone. New seat and seat post. Possibly true gravel bars like redshift.
first the easy things, pedals, seat post, saddle. Walmart has some Ozark trail pedals that actually look good. The brakes could be a lot better, that would be a smart upgrade. I'd really like to make mine like a 1x 9 or 10, but that means new wheels, gears, derailleur, shifter. I'm thinking about trying a 1x8 with just a new wheel and cassette, seeing if I can get one more click out of the existing shifter and derailleur. I've contemplated adding a front suspension fork just to make it a little better on slightly rougher terrain.
Hello.
Like always, I enjoy your content.
I just want to let you know that ozark trail ridge MTB is upgraded at my local Walmart:
New external cable routing, new derailleur, new handlebar, new chainring, and more.
I would start with the seat post, seat post clamp and change out the bar tape with some thicker tape like maybe the Wolf 🐺 Tooth bar tape for starters.
I personally would upgrade to hydraulic, but it would be pricey unless you go with one of those cheap Chinese brifters from Ali-Express. I can't speak to the quality of those. I will say though that a lot of people go with mechanical in gravel/touring applications and are happy with it. There are some good low-cost options there like the Microshift Sword. I wouldn't do a dropper. Ditch the kickstand. New wheel set with cassette
Latex inner tubes, carbon saddle and seatpost, remove the kickstand/reflectors/dork-disk, better pedals, and finally, some tt-bars
Ltwoo just redesigned their mechanical shifters so you can reach the thumb shifter while in the drops. Similar to their hydraulic versions. Might be worth looking into that.
Personally I'd prioritise a few changes to improve performance. That drivetrain works but I always swap out heavy chainsets. I bought an excellent 1x from Ali Express. If you did go 1x there are hacks to use the front shifter for a dropper. Those wheels are going to be dull. If you can, I'd source either a good quality 700c or 650b wheel set. The 650b option requires you to run bigger tyres (there's always been room when I've tried this but I may have been lucky) and I've found that both practical and comfortable. A dropper and bigger tyres mean you're less restricted on off-road routes.
I have the same bike. I put a carbon fork and seat post on my i bought off amazon. Im going to upgrade my drive train with a 11 speed and im going to do a 1x crank. or i might just do a crank. I used the stock wheels and went tubeless. i just ordered new dropbars that are carbon. Everything i done to mine cost 275.00. After doing all the changes and ordering new parts the bike weighed 29lbs when i bought it. Now it weighs 26.7lbs. I did have to change the tires to tubeless tires> Now its the best bike i have.
I would upgrade the tires first. Id add the cloth inner tube tape if it is rubber.
It may have already been recommended, Falcon FW-740, or shimano Tourney TZ-500 Megarange. With those specific Freewheels, no need to change the shifters.
Hollowtec knock-off, iXF crankset, snail 32-52. Idk, just throwing ideas around.
Maybe some tannus armour?
Carbon seat post, 1x drivetrain with hydraulic disc brakes, and remove the kick stand. You can get 11 speed SRAM Apex for the 1x build. Perhaps you can try on of the redshift suspension stems as well.
Just get a better frame at that point, you know, what that is actually sized correctly for YOU
there are hybrid cable operated hydraulic brake calipers ava i have them on my mtn bike!!! and a 700c suspension fork, i have one on my diamond back gravel bike!!!
I would leave it as is and put a bunch of miles on it and see what annoyances pop up. Great video as usual. Thanks
cable actuated hydrolic brakes that is what I would do as far as the brakes are concerned
Microshift advent for brakes and shifting. Avid bb5 road calipers. Maybe avid discs.
1. Wheels: Either lace in a freehub or get a new set of wheels. Otherwise, your limited to 7 speeds. Used $50-$100. New: $150-$250. And I'll say it again: If they would have just went with a freehub instead of a freewheel....hopefully they will hear the cries.
2. Brakes: Change the pads or go with a Chinese mech to hydro like Juin-tec/Zoom/Xtec. $10-$20 for pads or $50 for calipers.
3. Brifters (brake-shifter) These days there are quite a few low-cost options from brands like Sensah, Microshift and LTWOO, I'm seeing 9 speed Sensah on ebay for $85 shipped in the US. I'm a huge fan of Sora but (unless you can find a used set) they can be pricey for a budget build. Compatibility is something to consider, and one advantage of Sora or Shimano 9 speed is that road bike brifters are compatible with mtb derailleurs. Another thing to add is that you might be able to just keep the left side shifter and front derailleur and then buy the only the right side shifter. That is, if the right side brifter, with more speeds, is modeled the same in a If you're a masochist go with bar end shifters...yuck.
4. Rear cassette: Go with an 11-34. $30 to $60
5. Don't forget a chain: $20-$30.
6. I highly suggest a four bolt, double bcd (64-96/104). Popular in the 2000's they are cheap, easy to find with multiple bb options and potentially infinite gearing options. You can do 1x, 2x and 3x but I highly suggest 2x with a 24t low (you can go as low as 22t) and a 38t high. I'm seeing taper fit for under $40 shipped.
7. Pedals: Pedals are a preference item. You probably have set on something else but one thing to consider with a distance-oriented bike is clip in pedals. Look for SPD pedals and go with MTB shoes
8. Seat post: Chinese carbon: $20?
9. Seat: Again preference, but there are some interesting options out there like 3d printed seats that can be cheap, light and comfortable for as little as $30.
10. Derailleurs: Again, lots of options but if you stick with an 11-34 cassette and 2x you'll have more options. For the sake of compatibility do your home work or match the brand to your chosen brifter. If you're going 1x you have to use a clutched D or you risk a nut basher from a chain drop. $30-$50.
11. Tires: I don't recall what the OT will fit but a 42c is a great compromise between speed and comfort. It's 700c so there are quite a few options out there. However, new tires are spendy so you may want to just stick with the stock tires.
12. Fork: This is a head scratcher. The head tube accepts a tapered steerer tube fork but the wheel set is QR. You can and should upgrade the wheels but QR, disc, tapered forks are very limited if not unobtainium. You might be able to find a fork with a straight steerer tube and use a 1.25" to 1.5" adapter at the base. The other way to go is to go with a thru axle fork and compatible wheel. You might be able to find a used wheel set with QR rear and thru front hubs. Even though a potential headache it is worth considering as the stock for at 3.4 lbs is a boat anchor. A channel by the name of "JUST MATT" just did a conversion with a thru axle fork.
13. Bike: Just spend the money and buy a better bike. I'm only mostly kidding/serious. You could piece meal the OT into a pretty good bike but there are options out there worth looking at from brands like Poseidon and Salsa (Journeyman). I think if you're doing all new stuff it's going to add up. Time is on your side if you're ok with a slow build but if you have the money you might want to consider hitting the fast forward button. The main thing is getting into a bike with a frameset that is more easily expanded on and a bike like the OT is a mix of standards like tapered and QR. If you're like me and are willing to go with a mix of used and new (as well as OH parts....On Hand) you might be able to come in at $600 to $800 with the bike being a "decent" 25-27lbs.
P.S. A great resource for reviews budget road parts and bikes is the channel "Trace Velo." (Give him a baguette for me).
I got one and love it, but I found the brakes to be loud and horrible. I found some Zoom DB680's that were $30 for rotors and calipers. They're a massive improvement since they're dual piston and still keep the bike budget.
I have an ozark trail g1, and honestly, I will change all the contact points from the seat to the handle bar tape and pedals. I'd also make it into a 1 by and put some pirelli cinturato gravel m tires that I got on special for 28 bucks par tire and make it into a winter bike. Honestly, it's good for a 250 dollar bike ( best I've seen in a long time at that price) but not for my long-distance cycling or off-road rides. My checkpoint alr driftless is my go-to gravel bike
I bought the Ozark Trail gravel bike about a week ago and I have gone on three lengthy rides. I think I would change the drivetrain first. The cranks are not very nice and the shifting is so so, not too quick. I probably won't change anything until something begins to drive me nuts like the front derailleur.
No upgrades needed. Stock long-term test?
I'm on that boat, thought the same thing.
Except you gotta upgrade seat but beside that stock
Pedals, alloy seat post, charge saddle. I already have a spare crankset so I would change that and lose the kick stand. Maybe a 34 tooth freewheel and that is about it. If you are going to put 500 dollars into it you might as well but a Poseidon Rosewood at 799.
I’ve changed the seat, seat post, I broke the chain so I had to upgrade the chain. And added some bags and a quadlock. That’s it.
Just put line pull hydraulic brake calipers on my OG Sondors to keep the old levers with motor cutouts, nice upgrade in stopping power
Cable actuated Hydraulic calipers are most affordable. May have to go to MicroShift Sword for the best gravel groupset and definitely needs new wheelset to upgrade to larger cassette. I have a carbon fiber Canyon Grizl with the Rudy suspension fork and dropper with hydraulic brifters on GRX 820 and DT SUISSE wheels and it is the best bike I own! To upgrade the OT 700 G.1 to the same level you’d spend another 2K. Buy the best bike you can for the money in your pocket or use affirm to buy more bike over time.
I'd upgrade to hybrid brakes, like the Juin F1 or R1 setup(I live in the desert so the bigger Juins would be my pick) with upgraded rotors, like a Sram HS2(when on sale they are a great price) or TRP 2.0. You can keep the brifters. The get a Tranz-X Jumpseat dropper. If you shop it correctly that's only a $230-260 upgrade. Jumpseat is like $70-90 on marketplace and pinkbike or $110-120 new. Oh I would swap the front tires to a VIttoria Mezcal 44mm and keep the the other as a spare rear tire.
I'd go with 2 piston mechanical calipers, either suspension or dropper seatpost, pedals, and try to set up tubeless/new tires and wheelset for tubeless
What upgrades would you suggest if you were going to convert this to more of a road bike. I bought this for $70 but most of the gear is rusted but the frame is great!
Add some rechargeable lights a saddle that fits you better then maybe some better tires.
A better group set for a better gear ratio, carbon seat post and handlebars to smooth road chatter. DT Swiss Wheels with Schwalbe gravel tires. No dropper is required and get rid of the kick stand.
I’d ride it for a time and see what breaks. My guess is, the BB will go first. Since “gravel” for me doesn’t equal MTB, brakes could be okay for a long time. So:
1. Drill holes for another bottle cage or two.
2. TPU tubes if you decided to not go tubeless. Tubeless is annoying for infrequent riders due to air loss.
3. carbon seatpost from ali
4. fenders; more rides (ex. when cloudy) = money better used
5. pedals
6. BB, therefore crank
7. RD
Still some budget?
8. carbon fork
Now I’d try to enable exploring and make the rides longer.
9. lights (battery), especially a bright front light since you’d be riding rural areas
10. bicycle computer; used Wahoo v1 maybe
1) Carbon fiber handlebars. This will make a world of difference in smoothing out micro vibrations that are characteristic of aluminum frames.
2) new wheels. This will allow you to get rid of the freewheel and go to a legitimate cassette. Plus a good wheel set makes a noticeable difference in pedaling efficiency.
3) get rid of the boat anchor seat post.
4) I agree hydraulic brakes are not critical for gravel biking. You just aggressive use brakes gravel biking unlike mountain biking.
Maybe a good $200 bike. But so many box store bikes kill off the joy of bikes for so many kids. My town bikes are cable disc and V brakes because I not burning down mountains. My touring bikes are hydro disc that will eventually have better cable disc. Disclaimer: I resto mod old bikes and do my own maintenance, and ride year around in NE Wyoming.
A Shwinn Commute seat from Target.
It’s squishier than the Shwinn Commute seat from Walmart
( 2 different seats with the same name 🤦🏻)
I also purchased a budget aluminum seat post.
While weight savings is a benefit, I prefer being able to adjust the seat with an Allen wrench.
I may experiment with a shorter stem to adjust for my reach.
Beyond that I have no plans to modify it unless something breaks.
The sprocket is ugly as sin, but works fine.
The kickstand and reflectors were the first things we removed in the 80’s.
But since I ride a mix of trails and urban areas, the rear mounted kickstands are convenient for me and respectful since the public doesn’t have to navigate around a bicycle sprawled about.
I have a mixed fleet with hydraulic disks, cable disks and rim brakes.
While there is a difference between them, they all work instinctively enough for me that I’ve no reason to “upgrade” just because.
I’ve been enjoying my G1 and it’s found a rotation among my other bikes.
I usually ride 15-23 miles per trip several times a week.
You could get semi-hydraulic brakes.
I’d change the derailleur to a claris at least.
Go 1x with an IXF crankset, and at least a freehub rear. All in, it shouldn’t cost that much.
I've seen a few videos on this bike. People hate the seat. I think I'd change the seat. I would keep the kickstand.
Is the fork aluminum or steel? If it’s steel I’d definitely upgrade to aluminum. Same question for the seat post?
I’d upgrade both of of those and then the wheel set to something with a cassette and lighter than stock. A lighter 1x crankset and a cassette with a 50t gear would be next on my list.
Brakes TRP HYLEX RS with flat mount to post mount adapter, and for the shifter bar end shifter
noticed that there is a hylex post mount drop bar brake set
I would probably do contact points and tires first.
I'd put riser bars and a shock on it and a better seat..but I think that's all it needs
I would leave it the same dropper post yes cable hydraulic calipers wheels are okay. Maybe tires
Great bike for the price but not worth upgrading except for maybe a Shimano MegaRange (freewheel) 13-34t and racks & bags. One of the things I like about this bike is that it can be locked up and not worried about (as much) so I'd leave it pretty much stock.
Realistically this won't stay budget with a major drivetrain upgrade because it'd require a new wheel.
You can find a used 7 speed 29 wheels and 2 speed cranks from people who upgrade their bikes. I have a set that would be perfect for this bike, and the ONLY reason I would think about getting one. Sink too much into upgrades, and you would be much better off starting with a used bike in the proper size and a far better fork.
@@bindingcurve I'd only upgrade to a Megarange freewheel, under $25. I wouldn't touch the fork. That's assuming I'd buy this bike, unlikely.
@@michaelsprinzeles4022 range on the rear sucks 😞
I don't know much about the L-Twoo R2 groupset but assume the cable pull ratio for the brakes is the same as for caliper brakes so you can't freely upgrade the disc brake mechanisms unless you can find better road brake cable disc mechanisms. I'm guessing the best upgrade there is increasing the rotor size with new adapters for 180m or 203mm rotors which could be a relatively cheap upgrade for a big upgrade in stopping power. The R2 groupset is just a basic road groupset. I would also replace the rear wheel with a freehub rear wheel and get a 7 speed cassette maybe 11-34T. The current wheel is very weak as it has a quick release but a freewheel so could easily snap in the hub if treated badly. A freehub would be much stronger and would shift much better as it wouldn't wobble like a freewheel. Unfortunately there is limited choice in 7 speed cassettes so probably not suitable for a 1x conversion as you won't be able to get a big enough cassette. Lastly I would replace the rear derailleur with something higher quality but this assumes the L-Twoo current derailleur is Shimano compatible. I would probably go with a mountain bike derailleur like a Acera or whatever you can find at a good price. I tend to use tyres until their worn out even if I dislike them and those tyres look pretty good to me. For me a freehub is the entry point of a decent bike, its when bikes go to a higher level of quality so I like to upgrade bikes with freehubs that is always my first upgrade however I'm a very heavy rider so have to make upgrades for strength. I've written that so you understand my motivation as a lighter rider may make different choices especially making the bike lighter. I personally wouldn't make expensive upgrades to the bike I feel it just needs a few minor upgrades to maximise its performance without putting silly money into it which would have been better spent buying a better bike in the first place. I know some people on mountain bikes but a large rotor on the front so when going downhill when maximum pressure is on the front tyre they have greater braking force and sometimes leave the rear with a smaller rotor to give them greater modulation but this is normally with hydraulic brakes but still feel maybe a larger rotor on the front is all you need just for downhill improved braking where the weight distribution of the rider changes to the front wheel.
Also although I've never seen it done by Kev I reckon its about time you did an ebike conversion on one of your bikes and this would be an easy conversion I feel.
Run it till something breaks then upgrade to better components. At first put money into racks and bags.
Always the first changes I make are seat/saddle and peddles.
The only absolutely crucial upgrade on this bike is derailleur pulleys. That lower red one makes me crazy! ;)
Amazon just seems to be the go to for upgrades for budget bikes...
1- VG Sports 9 speed Freewheel 11-36
2 - CNC (LTWoo) 9 speed RD
3 - LTWoo Brifters 2x9
4 - Suspension Seatpost (saddle too maybe??)
5 - Carbon Fork (bottom headset cup adapter required for tapered steered) or front suspension fork with a 30mm - 50mm travel such as a Suntour NX1 700c
6 - Shimano, tektro, or promax mechanical brakes
You will be at the $700 area just with the upgrades I mentioned without changing the wheels and if you stick with the freewheel hub.
VG Sports on Amazon has freewheels from 6 - 11 speed which is unique as I haven't seen any UA-camr upgrade a "freewheel" as they always upgrade the wheels to be able to use HG cassettes.
If you still have a bit more spending money then I would upgrade the crank and chainrings to 46/34 or 44/32....
I'd put good tires on that bike. On the fence re: mech disc brakes. On my gravel bike they are fine; no need to upgrade yet. On my emtb, they were frighteningly awful. After basically having to ditch my bike, next day, I upgraded to 4 piston.
You should get cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes
I ride my MTB on gravel.... To get to trail. Definitely a dropper. I'm kind of only fixing what doesn't work, but I'd end up trying the wider , more flared bars. As the drive train wears out, id upgrade . I'm guessing that would require a wheel set.
I ride XXl bikes or a 63 in road so this Ozark trail would be a bad fit for me . I like the idea of an evil chamois hagar though. Might fit in xl
Only place they dropped the ball is no making this in a size large or XL.
I know at 248 this is a great price, and with its internal cable routing and extra mount points beat out the Kent bohe at the same price. But is it worth spending 378 (+130 dollars, more than 50%) of the the G1...