Almost everything I know about set up for guitar and bass has come through some sort of teaching by Dan Erlewine. He got me started when most everyone else could not give me a straight answer. Thank you, Dan.
It’s funny - I’d completely forgotten what I got the “nut and saddle” vise for because I got it nearly 20 years ago and I’ve used it for so many other things since then. I know this video is about nut slots, but that vise is a fantastic addition to any workbench IMHO.
I won't try another without proper files. I just spent 20 + hrs on a bone nut for a Yahama 200s woww. It's done but so are my fingers useing a welders nozzle cleaner, never again. I have your books and some tools but those nut files are next. Thank you
Ive had nut related tuning issues on so many of my previous guitars; Even the PRS i bought specifically because of its 'tuning stability' desperately needed filing. I always assumed the issue was bridge related (and some of them were), but if i had only known about proper nut filing it would have solved so many problems, and saved me from hours of frustrated tuning. Or just inevitability giving up out of exasperation. Sometimes professional set ups don't fix the issue either. Ive twice had music shops set up my guitars, and both times they still werent totally playable until after I bought my own files and did the job myself. But whats messed up is that 99% of guitars that leave the factory dont have a properly filed nut. They all suffer from string binding. Its really a shame that they cant at least get that crucial part right. I know every guitarist has their own preference re: action but more so, every guitarist wants an in tune guitar! That is first and foremost! Way before action height (who cares about good action on an untuneable guitar?) They just need to make sure they dont go TOO deep at the factory and wallah! the guitar will actually tune and it can still be altered futher to preference. But if you google pretty much any popular guitar, for example "PRS Custom 24 tuning issues" or literally any great guitar brand, you will see hundreds of forum posts related to this exact issue. Ive sold guitars before because of it. And after owning my PRS for over a year, its finally living up to its reputation thanks to me following the steps in this video. I was this close to buying a new guitar. Now i can buy some pedals and be happy with my original purchase.
So glad to see Dan saying that he files the slots down to get the string height that feels good to him. I have always done this as opposed to other luthiers who want to use a standardized measurement to set string height. Every guitar is unique, and going by the numbers rarely yields optimal results.
@user-fy6cj8mn2r When you use the words "ball park", you are making my point exactly. A master luthier considers all parameters before doing the work, and has the skills to give the customer ideal results versus generic less than perfect results. Every instrument is unique, and the "numbers" don't work with every instrument. If you choose "numbers" that are safe with all instruments, then a majority of your setups will be less than ideal. It is only when you have the experience and knowledge to go with the flow of each individual instruments "personality", that you can provide the best setup for your client.
I've finally found a consistent method for getting the nut slot heights perfect. Ideally, the nut could be replaced by a zero-fret that would be the same height as the other frets, right? So that's the height we want the bottom of the slots to be. I take a leaf out of my feeler gauges (it won't work if it's bolted in with the rest of the feelers as you need both ends free). Mine happen to be just long enough to reach from the nut to just past the 2nd fret on a 25.5" scale-length Fender. I also choose one thin enough to make it all the way to the bottom of the high E string's slot, but not so thin that it's too floppy to work with. Then I use it like a fret rocker (used for finding frets with out of whack heights). While pressing the feeler down on the 1 and 2 frets and with one end in the nut slot, I slide it forward (towards the guitar body) so that the end falls off the nut. If I hear and feel it click down onto the first fret then I know the nut slot was higher than the frets, and I file it a little and repeat. (When I say "a little" I mean it. Just 2 or 3 strokes at a time with not a lot of downward pressure. Better to take some extra time than to go too low and have to replace the nut.) The first time I tried this I made the mistake of using a feeler that was too thick, and it didn't go all the way down in the unwound string holes and I ended up ruining the nut. But I just tried it again last night, this time using the thinnest feeler that was still stiff enough to work with, and it worked perfectly. Few things annoy me as much on a guitar as excessive 1st fret action, so I'm really glad I've finally found a way to optimize it based on more than just guessing and playing feel.
+Mike utubesux Absolutely. Basically they should be the same depth as the first fret is high, so they'll automatically follow the fretboard radius. That's how my thin feeler gauge trick works, you can't go wrong and don't need to actually take any measurements. (Though as I mentioned above, you need a very thin feeler or it won't rest deep enough in the round bottomed slots, particularly for the thin strings.) Another way to do it is put a capo on the 3rd fret (like between 2 and 3 as you normally would place it) and then use a feeler or even just tap down on the strings at the 1st fret while looking and listening for movement and file down the slots until there's no space (or to be more careful, almost no space) between the first fret and each string. This seems to be the more common method and you can do it even without the capo just by fretting with your finger and tapping on the string with your other hand.
Admiral Quality Ah yes, because a zero fret would be radiused. But most of what I've read has said there should still be a razor thin gap over the first fret (holding down the 2nd). That's how I set my nut.
+Mike utubesux Well, that's just because once there's no gap it's impossible to measure if it's level or not (except with my rocker method above). So taking it down to *almost* the fret height is probably the safest way to go. I like it low though! But yes, there's no tolerance for going too low. Once you do that it's new nut time. (Or you can try messing around with filling the slots with the baking soda and superglue trick, but really, how hard is it to change out a nut?)
I do the same thing except I use a stack of feeler guages that is just barely higher than the zero fret height (as found with a rocker) then file the slot down until I feel the file hit the feeler guages. It let's you get the height correct on the first try with almost no danger of going to far.
I just worked on a cheap Spectrum guitar not really worth anything but followed your instructions with the pencil line and everything, because the nut was way too high that's just how they made the guitar, and by following your directions the guitar plays 100% better my open chords sound so much nicer ...Thank you
Is it possible to make the nut slotting files with a rounded end? Just thinking that might make things a little safer, at least if you slip a rounded end will make less damage the a square end.
@DanErlewine If my tech took too much material off the top of the nut and now the B and high E strings pop out of their respective slots when I bend those particular strings. guitar is otherwise setup perfectly. Any suggestions?
what's the fix for tonal or tune deviation between the first fret and the nut if the guitar is in perfect tune with an open string and fairly within + or - 8-10 interval at the 12th fret; why is the first fret tuning more extreme at + or - 25 micro intervals compared to the perfect tune of the open string. Is this an issue on the nut or the frets or what and what's the best remedy solution to fixing this problem.
does a nut need to be glued in? I saw a video where lindy fralin had a completely loose nut on his guitar, but he was talking about guitar electronics and not playing, so I'm not sure if it meant anything. It just seemed convenient
Say I was filing a brand-new nut with no string slots at all. I'm assuming I would need a slightly different width for each string, and likely a different width depending on the gauge of strings I'm using. How would I go about setting them properly?
So how would I do this without slot files? Because Graph Tech is dragging their freaking feet about replacing my nut so apparently I need to fix it if I want my guitar to be playable before April.
I would love to hear what size file for what string gauge and the leeway that is acceptable. I have set of files, but not for every string size of course.
MorbidBlessing You don't need to, but you should! Dan still uses different sized slot files in this clip! (you get the appropriate slot files in the stewmac nut slot file kit).
sirswift23 yes but what width do you aim for each slot say for 9-42 guage strings i understand height depth but does any one know the correct width ? regards Stephen
Thanks And congrats for all your advices And support. I would like to know about fixing the Truss rob And the nut to an Ovation 1615 1980 acoustic electric 12 strings guitar.. Thanks!!👍🏻
Hi Ryan! These are nut slotting files. We have Gauged Nut Slotting Files, Double-edge Nut Files, and DiamondCut Nut Slotting Files available for this task.
@@stewmac my guitar was damaged, i wanted to put pick up to my acoustic guitar by a guitar tech, i thought he was a pro but its not after all, after he made it more frets are buzzing now. I really feel sad for my guitar. What he made is he grind all the fretwire, he said its fret levelling procedure,, i trusted him, im wrong,, i watched videos on fret levelling procedure on utube, then i realize the man who work for my guitar is not a pro.. Hes procedure is wrong
Hi Guys ! Does the nut must be lower on the high E-string , than the E-low string ? Mine is very low on high E-string....Comes from the luthier for a new nut and feel it a bit too low on the the B and high E string !!! What is the proper measurment ? Is it normal ?
does the slots on the nut have an effect on the tension of the string? I find it a lot more difficult to press the first few fret than the higher frets?
Actually Maaz, they do. Exactly like he states in this video, the slot should be filed so that the string is the correct height above the fretboard and frets. If it is too high, it takes much more pressure to push the string all the way down to the first fret, and that could be the "tension" you are feeling at the first few frets. Filing the nut so that your strings sit lower could be one of the things that alleviates the tension. Of course, it could easily lead to other adjustments needing to be made....and he didn't really play this guitar at the end of this video, because it was probably buzzing like crazy. :)
I do all my own gear and I also take care of friends’ gear. I’m also on call for the recording studio that my son’s band Hawk has. I’ve played for 51 years and I never have to ask my buddies how they want their setups done. They usually tell me to set it up like I would play it. I think I could do them with my feet.
the best material to use for nut and saddles is and old piece of solid fiber glass fishing rod stronger than bone and easy to shape when you have high action you can use a very small piece and it will not break like bone
he lowers the slots until he likes the feel of the strings relative to the fretboard. shouldn't he also be concerned about intonation on those lower frets? what if the slot should be deeper to achieve good intonation there?
String depth on the nut doesnt effect intonation...intonation is adjusted with the distance from point of contact to point of contact on the nut and bridge.
Noah Liberman You actually can intonate a nut, but it's not depth, it's the forward edge of the nut. It's string length that affects intonation, not height. www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/images/nut/compensated-nut.jpg
I am sure there is an obvious answer but why not get the height in the nut for each string first and then create the ramps - seems like double handling to me.
There are special files for that but those things are expensive. I guess you can use a small saw or file if you know what you are doing. I've seen people do that.
I've seen videos of people using a welding tip cleaner set. They cost $5 or less. It comes with lots of little round files of differing sizes. I have a set, but have only ever had to "clean up" slots that weren't properly filed at the factory. I watched this video because I'm about to make a new nut, for the first time, but I think I'll invest in a proper set of nut files. I've seen Phil Mcknight use a guitar string wrapped with sandpaper to widen the slots in a pre-slotted nut, to accommodate for larger string gauge he was installing or something like that.
Amazon has a file set for less than $15.00 www.amazon.ca/Professional-Ukelulu-Stainless-Circular-Different/dp/B01M5IJR8V/ref=pd_sbs_469_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M5IJR8V&pd_rd_r=107de00f-d745-11e8-9665-8df9d4ca2866&pd_rd_w=MIS6n&pd_rd_wg=EbNpA&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H
Amazon has a file set for less than $15 www.amazon.ca/Professional-Ukelulu-Stainless-Circular-Different/dp/B01M5IJR8V/ref=pd_sbs_469_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M5IJR8V&pd_rd_r=107de00f-d745-11e8-9665-8df9d4ca2866&pd_rd_w=MIS6n&pd_rd_wg=EbNpA&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H
that is a very pretty parlor guitar. i wonder what era its from. The "relic" trend of guitars has pretty much ruined me for being to able to glean anything from just looking at a guitar. Who would have thought parlors would be in demand again?
glad i found a Graptech nut with near perfect measurements for my 7/8 size classical for like 9€, so that if I file away too much I can always buy another one instead of paying an expensive luthier...!
@@stewmac how can I do this without slot files? Graph Tech isn't cutting the high e slot correctly on their PT-6060-00 nuts so it rings at over 3k hz and has a sitar sound like no tomorrow. Multiple nuts, same issue. So I've got to modify it. Thanks.
I find that if I keep the strings high in the nut I can adjust the action low like everybody wants, if the strings are too low in the nut when you lower the action you won't have the angle you need and the first fret will buzz. you can always lower it later if you have to.
Never have I had an intonation problem with nut slots being too high, in fact I can count on one hand how many times intonation was ever out of any guitar I worked on, if intonation is a problem then you have things really out of whack.
Mark Nairn If the nut slots are too high you'll still be able to set the twelfth fret intonation correctly, but the first few frets will play sharp, because you're having to press the strings down too far to fret them. This is easy to check with your tuner: tune up, then barre across the first fret and check each string in tune. If they're not sharp, I'll eat my hat.
I also have a guitar (brand new) with severe problems. Would you send me the appropriate files please? I'm just a DIY'r. I don't make my living repairing guitars. A million thank yous.
Amazon has a file set for less than $15 www.amazon.ca/Professional-Ukelulu-Stainless-Circular-Different/dp/B01M5IJR8V/ref=pd_sbs_469_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M5IJR8V&pd_rd_r=107de00f-d745-11e8-9665-8df9d4ca2866&pd_rd_w=MIS6n&pd_rd_wg=EbNpA&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H
Justin Johnson did a video with a guy in Tazmania adjusting the action of a guitar, he used a welding nozzle tip cleaning set to file the nut grooves, I ordered a S.S. set of 13 different sizes from China for $2.
Just got a set from Stewmac, and it set me back $120 with tax and shipping for a light gage set of 6. ($20/per) Like they say, cry now, or cry more later. Good tools cost money... Having a professional set up 8-10 guitars would be A LOT MORE $$$...
Almost everything I know about set up for guitar and bass has come through some sort of teaching by Dan Erlewine.
He got me started when most everyone else could not give me a straight answer. Thank you, Dan.
It’s funny - I’d completely forgotten what I got the “nut and saddle” vise for because I got it nearly 20 years ago and I’ve used it for so many other things since then. I know this video is about nut slots, but that vise is a fantastic addition to any workbench IMHO.
I won't try another without proper files. I just spent 20 + hrs on a bone nut for a Yahama 200s woww. It's done but so are my fingers useing a welders nozzle cleaner, never again. I have your books and some tools but those nut files are next. Thank you
he makes it look so easy...the best ones always do.
Ive had nut related tuning issues on so many of my previous guitars; Even the PRS i bought specifically because of its 'tuning stability' desperately needed filing. I always assumed the issue was bridge related (and some of them were), but if i had only known about proper nut filing it would have solved so many problems, and saved me from hours of frustrated tuning. Or just inevitability giving up out of exasperation.
Sometimes professional set ups don't fix the issue either. Ive twice had music shops set up my guitars, and both times they still werent totally playable until after I bought my own files and did the job myself.
But whats messed up is that 99% of guitars that leave the factory dont have a properly filed nut. They all suffer from string binding. Its really a shame that they cant at least get that crucial part right.
I know every guitarist has their own preference re: action but more so, every guitarist wants an in tune guitar! That is first and foremost! Way before action height (who cares about good action on an untuneable guitar?) They just need to make sure they dont go TOO deep at the factory and wallah! the guitar will actually tune and it can still be altered futher to preference.
But if you google pretty much any popular guitar, for example "PRS Custom 24 tuning issues" or literally any great guitar brand, you will see hundreds of forum posts related to this exact issue. Ive sold guitars before because of it. And after owning my PRS for over a year, its finally living up to its reputation thanks to me following the steps in this video. I was this close to buying a new guitar. Now i can buy some pedals and be happy with my original purchase.
Dan is the man...he is the human manual ''PLEK'' machine extraordinaire !!
No, he's better, as are all luthiers (on youtube at least) because he can see, feel and hear the difference.
So glad to see Dan saying that he files the slots down to get the string height that feels good to him. I have always done this as opposed to other luthiers who want to use a standardized measurement to set string height. Every guitar is unique, and going by the numbers rarely yields optimal results.
@user-fy6cj8mn2r When you use the words "ball park", you are making my point exactly. A master luthier considers all parameters before doing the work, and has the skills to give the customer ideal results versus generic less than perfect results. Every instrument is unique, and the "numbers" don't work with every instrument. If you choose "numbers" that are safe with all instruments, then a majority of your setups will be less than ideal. It is only when you have the experience and knowledge to go with the flow of each individual instruments "personality", that you can provide the best setup for your client.
I've finally found a consistent method for getting the nut slot heights perfect. Ideally, the nut could be replaced by a zero-fret that would be the same height as the other frets, right? So that's the height we want the bottom of the slots to be.
I take a leaf out of my feeler gauges (it won't work if it's bolted in with the rest of the feelers as you need both ends free). Mine happen to be just long enough to reach from the nut to just past the 2nd fret on a 25.5" scale-length Fender. I also choose one thin enough to make it all the way to the bottom of the high E string's slot, but not so thin that it's too floppy to work with. Then I use it like a fret rocker (used for finding frets with out of whack heights). While pressing the feeler down on the 1 and 2 frets and with one end in the nut slot, I slide it forward (towards the guitar body) so that the end falls off the nut. If I hear and feel it click down onto the first fret then I know the nut slot was higher than the frets, and I file it a little and repeat. (When I say "a little" I mean it. Just 2 or 3 strokes at a time with not a lot of downward pressure. Better to take some extra time than to go too low and have to replace the nut.)
The first time I tried this I made the mistake of using a feeler that was too thick, and it didn't go all the way down in the unwound string holes and I ended up ruining the nut. But I just tried it again last night, this time using the thinnest feeler that was still stiff enough to work with, and it worked perfectly. Few things annoy me as much on a guitar as excessive 1st fret action, so I'm really glad I've finally found a way to optimize it based on more than just guessing and playing feel.
I always assumed the nut slots should be radiused, is that true?
+Mike utubesux Absolutely. Basically they should be the same depth as the first fret is high, so they'll automatically follow the fretboard radius. That's how my thin feeler gauge trick works, you can't go wrong and don't need to actually take any measurements. (Though as I mentioned above, you need a very thin feeler or it won't rest deep enough in the round bottomed slots, particularly for the thin strings.)
Another way to do it is put a capo on the 3rd fret (like between 2 and 3 as you normally would place it) and then use a feeler or even just tap down on the strings at the 1st fret while looking and listening for movement and file down the slots until there's no space (or to be more careful, almost no space) between the first fret and each string. This seems to be the more common method and you can do it even without the capo just by fretting with your finger and tapping on the string with your other hand.
Admiral Quality Ah yes, because a zero fret would be radiused. But most of what I've read has said there should still be a razor thin gap over the first fret (holding down the 2nd). That's how I set my nut.
+Mike utubesux Well, that's just because once there's no gap it's impossible to measure if it's level or not (except with my rocker method above). So taking it down to *almost* the fret height is probably the safest way to go. I like it low though! But yes, there's no tolerance for going too low. Once you do that it's new nut time. (Or you can try messing around with filling the slots with the baking soda and superglue trick, but really, how hard is it to change out a nut?)
I do the same thing except I use a stack of feeler guages that is just barely higher than the zero fret height (as found with a rocker) then file the slot down until I feel the file hit the feeler guages. It let's you get the height correct on the first try with almost no danger of going to far.
A good teacher makes the difficult seem easy....and possible.
"Pop the nut back in there and see where my action is.." I don't know how many times I've said that ; )
Thanks for the great vid!
I just worked on a cheap Spectrum guitar not really worth anything but followed your instructions with the pencil line and everything, because the nut was way too high that's just how they made the guitar, and by following your directions the guitar plays 100% better my open chords sound so much nicer ...Thank you
Thanks very much for this. Filing at an angle is an easy thing to miss (which I did when making a new nut) but makes a big difference to intonation
Dan Erlewine is the man! Very helpful!
I really use that little vise a lot. I love it. I use it on so many different things.
The master of the masters... all glory to Dan!!
I have a body telecaster need a neck but have to figure out where the bridge goes as it's not drilled yet but know you have a video on that also.
Thanks for sharing. I hear this helps us who have difficulty playing an F chord.
Is it possible to make the nut slotting files with a rounded end? Just thinking that might make things a little safer, at least if you slip a rounded end will make less damage the a square end.
Will be doing this to an Epiphone Les Paul as soon as the bone nut & luthier tools arrive tomorrow evening.
I musta watched this video 3 times now and I just noticed you clamped the vice down... That explains a lot!
Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge, sir. Great video and straight to the point.
@DanErlewine If my tech took too much material off the top of the nut and now the B and high E strings pop out of their respective slots when I bend those particular strings. guitar is otherwise setup perfectly. Any suggestions?
what's the fix for tonal or tune deviation between the first fret and the nut if the guitar is in perfect tune with an open string and fairly within + or - 8-10 interval at the 12th fret; why is the first fret tuning more extreme at + or - 25 micro intervals compared to the perfect tune of the open string. Is this an issue on the nut or the frets or what and what's the best remedy solution to fixing this problem.
does a nut need to be glued in? I saw a video where lindy fralin had a completely loose nut on his guitar, but he was talking about guitar electronics and not playing, so I'm not sure if it meant anything. It just seemed convenient
But the nut on my guitar is black and pencil lead isn't visible! What would be a good alternative for me to use??
What material is that fretboard made out of? It looks amazing
Best video I see thus far, thank you.
How's that guitar coming out? cheeeeaaaa
CHEAAAAH
Say I was filing a brand-new nut with no string slots at all. I'm assuming I would need a slightly different width for each string, and likely a different width depending on the gauge of strings I'm using. How would I go about setting them properly?
Just the help I was looking for. Need to lower the height of a nut that was cut too high. I like the pencil lead trick.
So, is the nut slot best to be cut in a slight V from front to back? So it's wider at the tuner side?
RDE Lutherie Does it help to angle the slots towards the tuners or is dead straight better?
RDE Lutherie thanks mate
So how would I do this without slot files? Because Graph Tech is dragging their freaking feet about replacing my nut so apparently I need to fix it if I want my guitar to be playable before April.
My bridge slots have worn away over the years. Would this be the same process?
Have a video for doing a Martin 12 string? Somebody did a horrible job on the GPC12 PA4 I just bought.
It’s a mess.
It always sounds like his files work better than mine!
I would love to hear what size file for what string gauge and the leeway that is acceptable. I have set of files, but not for every string size of course.
You don't need a file for every gauge. That's why he'll rolling them! :)
MorbidBlessing Yes I caught that.
MorbidBlessing
You don't need to, but you should! Dan still uses different sized slot files in this clip! (you get the appropriate slot files in the stewmac nut slot file kit).
sirswift23 yes but what width do you aim for each slot say for 9-42 guage strings i understand height depth but does any one know the correct width ? regards Stephen
i play metal so my strings are thick,shouls they lay on the top of the nut or be completely inside the nut slots loosely or tightly?
This probably comes to late, but they should lay inside the nut and they should lay in there loosely.
Dan I wish you would have showed us how the gap disappeared after you filed. It looked to me like there was still a gap at the front there.
Great tip as always!
Dan is the best!
So *that's* how to get the slots filed right! . Many thanks for the video.
What measurements would you use for ukulele Dan?
would you say the slot near the fretboard would be tapered? or more square? thx
Thanks And congrats for all your advices And support. I would like to know about fixing the Truss rob And the nut to an Ovation 1615 1980 acoustic electric 12 strings guitar..
Thanks!!👍🏻
Wow thats an old guitar! What year is it?👍
Sir what the name of the tool for filing nut slot for acoustic?thank u sir
Hi Ryan! These are nut slotting files. We have Gauged Nut Slotting Files, Double-edge Nut Files, and DiamondCut Nut Slotting Files available for this task.
@@stewmac ahhhm okey thank u
@@ryangilbertraneses3489 Happy to help!
@@stewmac my guitar was damaged, i wanted to put pick up to my acoustic guitar by a guitar tech, i thought he was a pro but its not after all, after he made it more frets are buzzing now. I really feel sad for my guitar. What he made is he grind all the fretwire, he said its fret levelling procedure,, i trusted him, im wrong,, i watched videos on fret levelling procedure on utube, then i realize the man who work for my guitar is not a pro.. Hes procedure is wrong
Hi Guys ! Does the nut must be lower on the high E-string , than the E-low string ? Mine is very low on high E-string....Comes from the luthier for a new nut and feel it a bit too low on the the B and high E string !!! What is the proper measurment ? Is it normal ?
i usually got mines set around .02 on low e and .01 on high e
Sorry this might seem like a stupid question - but what is that tool called that you use to file the nut? Is it literally a filer?
What you're looking for is a gauged nut slotting file. 😀
How do you set string height?
Jeff's Big Guitars you do it by adjusting the truss rod, nut and the saddel highet
does the slots on the nut have an effect on the tension of the string? I find it a lot more difficult to press the first few fret than the higher frets?
Actually Maaz, they do. Exactly like he states in this video, the slot should be filed so that the string is the correct height above the fretboard and frets. If it is too high, it takes much more pressure to push the string all the way down to the first fret, and that could be the "tension" you are feeling at the first few frets. Filing the nut so that your strings sit lower could be one of the things that alleviates the tension. Of course, it could easily lead to other adjustments needing to be made....and he didn't really play this guitar at the end of this video, because it was probably buzzing like crazy. :)
thanks again Dan for great info!!! Happy New Year!!!
Awesome, so much good advice packed in here. Great video.
I do all my own gear and I also take care of friends’ gear. I’m also on call for the recording studio that my son’s band Hawk has. I’ve played for 51 years and I never have to ask my buddies how they want their setups done. They usually tell me to set it up like I would play it. I think I could do them with my feet.
the best material to use for nut and saddles is and old piece of solid fiber glass fishing rod stronger than bone and easy to shape when you have high action you can use a very small piece and it will not break like bone
Love the video's! exactly what i need to do on an old Washburn acoustic.👍🎸
Great, I'm doing mine at the moment so I know what to do!
he lowers the slots until he likes the feel of the strings relative to the fretboard. shouldn't he also be concerned about intonation on those lower frets? what if the slot should be deeper to achieve good intonation there?
String depth on the nut doesnt effect intonation...intonation is adjusted with the distance from point of contact to point of contact on the nut and bridge.
I see what you are saying but you get the action the way you want then worry about intonation adjustment.
Noah Liberman You actually can intonate a nut, but it's not depth, it's the forward edge of the nut. It's string length that affects intonation, not height.
www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/images/nut/compensated-nut.jpg
Thank you sir!
I am sure there is an obvious answer but why not get the height in the nut for each string first and then create the ramps - seems like double handling to me.
Can I file the nut with a normal file?
looks like it has to be thin enough to get into the slots
There are special files for that but those things are expensive. I guess you can use a small saw or file if you know what you are doing. I've seen people do that.
I've seen videos of people using a welding tip cleaner set. They cost $5 or less. It comes with lots of little round files of differing sizes. I have a set, but have only ever had to "clean up" slots that weren't properly filed at the factory. I watched this video because I'm about to make a new nut, for the first time, but I think I'll invest in a proper set of nut files. I've seen Phil Mcknight use a guitar string wrapped with sandpaper to widen the slots in a pre-slotted nut, to accommodate for larger string gauge he was installing or something like that.
Amazon has a file set for less than $15.00
www.amazon.ca/Professional-Ukelulu-Stainless-Circular-Different/dp/B01M5IJR8V/ref=pd_sbs_469_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M5IJR8V&pd_rd_r=107de00f-d745-11e8-9665-8df9d4ca2866&pd_rd_w=MIS6n&pd_rd_wg=EbNpA&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H
Amazon has a file set for less than $15
www.amazon.ca/Professional-Ukelulu-Stainless-Circular-Different/dp/B01M5IJR8V/ref=pd_sbs_469_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M5IJR8V&pd_rd_r=107de00f-d745-11e8-9665-8df9d4ca2866&pd_rd_w=MIS6n&pd_rd_wg=EbNpA&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H
Great educational video. Thank you for sharing this.
that is a very pretty parlor guitar. i wonder what era its from. The "relic" trend of guitars has pretty much ruined me for being to able to glean anything from just looking at a guitar. Who would have thought parlors would be in demand again?
That was really simple and easy to understand, thanks Stewart, you made a Kiwi's day!
Dan.
0:02 That's how high Fender ships Strats these days. Had to have it filed down in two repairs.
glad i found a Graptech nut with near perfect measurements for my 7/8 size classical for like 9€, so that if I file away too much I can always buy another one instead of paying an expensive luthier...!
Does anyone know of a great Lutheran school in southern Ontario
Gentle strokes always lead to the best nuts
I like that guitar.
Excellent as always!
Thanks!
Good tips!
Perfect explanation. Thanks!!
The best nut file
I have some premium tight bond is that bad.
Nice vice.
great info
I never glue the nut - with 6 strings under tension how can it possibly move?
Nut and saddle vice, also known as a vice
Great video!! ...... as usual.
that would throw off the intonation too no??
It certainly would if the contact point at the back of the nut was higher than the contact point at the fingerboard edge of the nut.
@@stewmac how can I do this without slot files? Graph Tech isn't cutting the high e slot correctly on their PT-6060-00 nuts so it rings at over 3k hz and has a sitar sound like no tomorrow. Multiple nuts, same issue. So I've got to modify it. Thanks.
That was helpful, thanks!
I find that if I keep the strings high in the nut I can adjust the action low like everybody wants, if the strings are too low in the nut when you lower the action you won't have the angle you need and the first fret will buzz. you can always lower it later if you have to.
If the strings are too high in the net slots then the string will have intonation issues also it's pretty uncomfortable.
Never have I had an intonation problem with nut slots being too high, in fact I can count on one hand how many times intonation was ever out of any guitar I worked on, if intonation is a problem then you have things really out of whack.
Mark Nairn If the nut slots are too high you'll still be able to set the twelfth fret intonation correctly, but the first few frets will play sharp, because you're having to press the strings down too far to fret them. This is easy to check with your tuner: tune up, then barre across the first fret and check each string in tune. If they're not sharp, I'll eat my hat.
I was gonna do this myself but I betternot
I also have a guitar (brand new) with severe problems. Would you send me the appropriate files please? I'm just a DIY'r. I don't make my living repairing guitars. A million thank yous.
Careful not to bust one
The repair cost more than the guitar.
Hardly.
too bad you have to mortgage the house to buy tools or just files from stewmac.
Amazon has a file set for less than $15
www.amazon.ca/Professional-Ukelulu-Stainless-Circular-Different/dp/B01M5IJR8V/ref=pd_sbs_469_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M5IJR8V&pd_rd_r=107de00f-d745-11e8-9665-8df9d4ca2866&pd_rd_w=MIS6n&pd_rd_wg=EbNpA&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=62XW471W6VG26M9J465H
Justin Johnson did a video with a guy in Tazmania adjusting the action of a guitar, he used a welding nozzle tip cleaning set to file the nut grooves, I ordered a S.S. set of 13 different sizes from China for $2.
Just got a set from Stewmac, and it set me back $120 with tax and shipping for a light gage set of 6. ($20/per)
Like they say, cry now, or cry more later. Good tools cost money...
Having a professional set up 8-10 guitars would be A LOT MORE $$$...