Thanks for tutorial,i remember doing my lt230 on my lt85 gearbox i forget to put oil on them felt washers and those bolt guides are a very good tip. l put silicone in between the gearbox and transfer box just in case them oil seals did leak,i remember them case bolts in the manual it gave you lengths of each and i wondered why,i glad i followed the manual as you said you will bend them bolts if their the wrong size. l got to admit i am getting on in age and that cold weather you work in would stop me doing many jobs .
I took a prop off a jenson which had no felt seal on the axle and got covered in ep90 , and I wasn't allowed in the house till I binned my clothes, great video 👍
@@BritannicaRestorations i used to fly model helicopters on a pig farm it didn't last long , every time I came home she moaned about the smell ,but gear oil is close 🤭
Elementary my dear Watson, can't beat diagnosing issues with old motors, I've had plenty of practice, I own a P38 😂 had a series Land Rover, Classic Range Rover, Mitsubishi Pagero, you get the picture.
Someone put the long bolts in the front of my transfer case and caused that exact issue... took an age to get the bugger out and as you said had to helicoil it... wish the previous owners had watched this vid
I have to do my input seal on the D2 I wonder if your guide bolt method would work on car with the drive. shafts disconnected. I'll have to scope it out. Thanks for the bolt tip.
Ah… I just now found out I put the longer bolt in from the backside… Replaced the transfer box a year ago. Blown the r380 lady werk, so removed the transfer box and found one of the bolts was slightly damaged at the end, like it rubbed against something. Came out ok, so hopefully the damage is not that severe and i can reuse the transfer box without opening it. R380 is blown… big bang on the highway at 100kmh and no gears left. I drive a td5 defender 130 and plan on changing the gearbox with a disco 300tdi box with an adapter. The blown r380 I plan on rebuilding (if still possible).
@@BritannicaRestorations I drained the oil from the r380. chunks of teeth and slivers. I regret not trying fourth gear tho… just to determine if it is “just” the lay-shaft. Some small slivers on the plug of the lt230, nothing out of the ordinary. This weekend I will be removing the r380 completely and have a peek inside. I also will open up the transfer box to check the input gear (and check for contamination) Thanks for taking the time answering my comment, appreciate it.
No problems For the last few transfer rebuilds I have been fitting studs (TE110051L with Loctite) in those front tapped holes as the Puma box has to prevent the mistake of putting the wrong length bolts in the holes
@@BritannicaRestorations update: removed bellhousing, input shaft seems to be completely separated from the main shaft. Bearing is gone, seal gone. Input shaft flops around. If you push it towards the main shaft you can get the main shaft to turn. Feels really gritty inside. I will remove the bearing plate, maybe I can get the input shaft out. More to come…
Mike what is the difference between Hylomar Blue and Hylocil. Applications etc. Onto the spray bottle, I bought one, different colour from yours but same high standard Chinese factory. It wouldn't hold pressure from new. PTFE around the threat of the bottle, still no good. Then I looked at the top of the bottle, this was poorly finished, (not finished at all, out of the mould and into the shipping container.) I filed the top as flat as I could by eye and now the top spray part of the contraption makes a seal when screwed on. I hope this makes sense to you and the viewers who have the same sprayer. The top of the bottle must be free of mould marks and 90 degrees to the threat. Excellent diagnosis work by the way. It does look like someone has been there before you, probable trying to fix the same problem and it was caused by a kinked hose!!
Hello, thanks for the video’s. Very nice explained. I have one question if is possible to help me with. I have a Disco 2 2004 TD5 no CDL, is the transfer case from Disco 1 compatible with my gearbox to make a conversion to CDL? Thank you in advance. Happy new year.
Hmm not seen a Td5 transfer case so not 100% sure - will be the same ratio but not sure about the interlocks and method of engaging diff lock as the Td5 was cable operated
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for the replay, I will study more about. I am concern more about the case/ connection screws, input shaft gearbox to TC, all the rest is manageable. Appreciate the replay, once again Happy new year.
I just finished reseal font and rear seals and the input seal. however ive just noticed gear oil leaking from the front out put shaft housing where it joins the main casing :(. Can i leave it in situ and reseal the front output housing? It took me sooooo long to remove and put back (from a Disco2)
@@BritannicaRestorations I should of mentioned that i did it. That was the number one reason why i pulled the case out. both front and rear o-rings and also put permatex on the outside.
Mike working as a mechanic will teach you every day
Excellent video Mike -- loads of stuff we'd never learn anywhere else!
Cheers Dave = some interesting news coming this week!
@@BritannicaRestorations Always looking forward to your latest 'adventures'.
Fascinating process. You certainly know your way around a Land Rover gearbox. Well done sir.
Thanks Dave!
Great video, great tips! Thanks for sharing👍
Thanks for tutorial,i remember doing my lt230 on my lt85 gearbox i forget to put oil on them felt washers and those bolt guides are a very good tip. l put silicone in between the gearbox and transfer box just in case them oil seals did leak,i remember them case bolts in the manual it gave you lengths of each and i wondered why,i glad i followed the manual as you said you will bend them bolts if their the wrong size. l got to admit i am getting on in age and that cold weather you work in would stop me doing many jobs .
I took a prop off a jenson which had no felt seal on the axle and got covered in ep90 , and I wasn't allowed in the house till I binned my clothes, great video 👍
I once worked for a pump company fixing sewerage pumps for piggeries - I think I can trump that!
Lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations i used to fly model helicopters on a pig farm it didn't last long , every time I came home she moaned about the smell ,but gear oil is close 🤭
I can cope with EP90 but liquid pig poop takes some beating!
Elementary my dear Watson, can't beat diagnosing issues with old motors, I've had plenty of practice, I own a P38 😂 had a series Land Rover, Classic Range Rover, Mitsubishi Pagero, you get the picture.
P38 making drivers into electronic experts....
Another good episode mate. 👍👍
Wish you still lived in the Teesside area,I'd have mine in for a refurbish no problem!
MrAddisonroad Someone has to live in smoggy land lol
The good Lord put the Eston hills between us and the Smoggys!
Someone put the long bolts in the front of my transfer case and caused that exact issue... took an age to get the bugger out and as you said had to helicoil it... wish the previous owners had watched this vid
Very good job thanks
I have to do my input seal on the D2 I wonder if your guide bolt method would work on car with the drive. shafts disconnected. I'll have to scope it out. Thanks for the bolt tip.
Problem with the D2, there is not much room to pull the transfer box back
Ah… I just now found out I put the longer bolt in from the backside…
Replaced the transfer box a year ago.
Blown the r380 lady werk, so removed the transfer box and found one of the bolts was slightly damaged at the end, like it rubbed against something. Came out ok, so hopefully the damage is not that severe and i can reuse the transfer box without opening it.
R380 is blown… big bang on the highway at 100kmh and no gears left.
I drive a td5 defender 130 and plan on changing the gearbox with a disco 300tdi box with an adapter. The blown r380 I plan on rebuilding (if still possible).
Drain the oil and see if there are any teeth in there!
@@BritannicaRestorations
I drained the oil from the r380. chunks of teeth and slivers.
I regret not trying fourth gear tho… just to determine if it is “just” the lay-shaft.
Some small slivers on the plug of the lt230, nothing out of the ordinary.
This weekend I will be removing the r380 completely and have a peek inside.
I also will open up the transfer box to check the input gear (and check for contamination)
Thanks for taking the time answering my comment, appreciate it.
No problems
For the last few transfer rebuilds I have been fitting studs (TE110051L with Loctite) in those front tapped holes as the Puma box has to prevent the mistake of putting the wrong length bolts in the holes
@@BritannicaRestorations thats a good tip.
Thanks!
@@BritannicaRestorations update: removed bellhousing, input shaft seems to be completely separated from the main shaft. Bearing is gone, seal gone. Input shaft flops around. If you push it towards the main shaft you can get the main shaft to turn.
Feels really gritty inside. I will remove the bearing plate, maybe I can get the input shaft out. More to come…
Mike what is the difference between Hylomar Blue and Hylocil. Applications etc.
Onto the spray bottle, I bought one, different colour from yours but same high standard Chinese factory.
It wouldn't hold pressure from new. PTFE around the threat of the bottle, still no good.
Then I looked at the top of the bottle, this was poorly finished, (not finished at all, out of the mould and into the shipping container.)
I filed the top as flat as I could by eye and now the top spray part of the contraption makes a seal when screwed on.
I hope this makes sense to you and the viewers who have the same sprayer.
The top of the bottle must be free of mould marks and 90 degrees to the threat.
Excellent diagnosis work by the way.
It does look like someone has been there before you, probable trying to fix the same problem and it was caused by a kinked hose!!
Hylosil is an RTV Room Temperature Vulcanizing
Hello, thanks for the video’s. Very nice explained. I have one question if is possible to help me with. I have a Disco 2 2004 TD5 no CDL, is the transfer case from Disco 1 compatible with my gearbox to make a conversion to CDL? Thank you in advance. Happy new year.
Hmm not seen a Td5 transfer case so not 100% sure - will be the same ratio but not sure about the interlocks and method of engaging diff lock as the Td5 was cable operated
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for the replay, I will study more about. I am concern more about the case/ connection screws, input shaft gearbox to TC, all the rest is manageable. Appreciate the replay, once again Happy new year.
Any chance of having more videos on the Land Rover NAS 3.9/4.0 V-8s?
Not many NAS here
Are those long studs, Metric 10mm Mike? The idea of those studs is very good.
Yes
Mike
When joining the transfer box with the gearbox is a gasket/silicone required? Thanks!
no
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks for the quick response!. Cheers from Costa Rica.
I just finished reseal font and rear seals and the input seal. however ive just noticed gear oil leaking from the front out put shaft housing where it joins the main casing :(. Can i leave it in situ and reseal the front output housing? It took me sooooo long to remove and put back (from a Disco2)
I would put money on it being the Intermediate gear O ring leaking not the RTV seal between the main and front casing
@@BritannicaRestorations I should of mentioned that i did it. That was the number one reason why i pulled the case out. both front and rear o-rings and also put permatex on the outside.
What's the thread of the guides and what's the amount of play the gearbox inputshaft is allowed to have?
M10 thread - zero play
Britannica Restorations Ltd thank you very much Mike!
Zero play axial and radial?
Can you speak german because 9:23 „kaputt“
It's a bit of fun I have for my German viewers!