Awesome collection. Double bit is my go to for most things. I also had a accident only right in my knee cap. Was using my Fiskers X15 when it happened and was the bottom tip of axe. 5 staples, full recovery and lesson learned.
Oh nice! Did it cut much underneath or more of a surface cut? I felt like mine went way into my shin bone but there was a lot of surface tissue that I thought was bone
My dad ended up cutting himself on the inside of his leg and lost quite a bit of blood from it. He survived, fortunately, but I learned from it. Be very careful with sharp tools. They're great to have around but must be respected. Love your channel.
Use to swing a Council Tool Dayton design 3.5 lb. head ALL day long when I was a wilderness wildland fire fighter for 10 seasons. You can disregard the grain orientation nonsense in the handle as the USFS had grain that went in every direction and I NEVER remember anyone that knew how to use an axe having a broken handle. But give that axe to a newbie and they could break axe handles by damaging the handle where it meets the head, until they got the hang of it. It's how you use it and abuse it, not the grain orientation. I fell trees all day long with an axe as power tools were not allowed in a wilderness area and we depended on the axe for our lives. As long as that grain was hickoy, (not ash) dense and tight, never a problem.
Hickory is the best I agree, I never realized how tough it was until I made bows with it. I've seen a lot of new instructors break axe heads and having good grain orientation helps with their initial mistakes over the weeks of learning however, having perfect grain is impractical in the grand scheme of handle manufacturing. I concur that proper use should not stress the wood enough to break a handle with any grain orientation, misuse from prying, splitting etc. is what I have seen that breaks heads. What other axes have you used that are your favorite? Thank you for your shared knowledge!
That's going to be tough to find, the shorter hudson Bay style axe in the video would be best for that because you can choke up in the handle more for carving but it still splits well. Chop on your knees to minimize the chance of it glancing towards your legs and should hit the ground instead
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse yeah I've split alot of wood I live in maine and most people use wood stoves up here...but I think I might go with the council tools woodcrafting pack axe as I can just baton...really wanted a good splitter to but I think I'm just expecting too much from a smaller axe
I would just get 2 different axes if you live in Maine and split a lot of wood, the smaller fiskars with the splitting wedge built in is for my sauna wood stove and I use the council tool for my house wood stove. Instructors would take the fiskars on the trail and I was surprised how well it split wood. It's always a tough decision, I don't know exactly what you need, life is hard lol
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse yeah a small splitter would be good but honestly I don't have a huge saw to quarter up anything bigger than 7 in. Diameter trees so I unless I get some real twisted or knotty wood it's not going to make a big difference...its mainly just for camping and bushcrafting
Three. One for the big jobs, one for the medium jobs, one for the small jobs. And a couple of 5 to 6 inch fixed blades and a nice assortment of flippers for bush crafting
My birthday is in January and now that the boys are grown and I don't have grandbabies yet It's just me and the dog in the woods. For my birthday Xmas gift for myself I am getting a couple of axes and building a stone fireplace in my tiny house in the woods and I have been trying to get back into shape and I hate peoplie places aka the gym I decided chopping wood, Mom didn't let me when I was younger because well I understand. But wish me luck So much love and blessings to you all ❤❤❤
Hi, I've been fascinated and dreaming about this kind of thing for a while-looking at what to buy to start with, that I won't grow out of right away. I'm 61, female and love watching all the wilderness videos! Was looking at the fiskar short hatchet-but keep reading that it hurts to use because of the plastic handle-would you recommend a different first axe/hatchet to start with for me? What kind of weight makes sense for a 5'8" woman? Thanks to anyone who can point me in the right direction!
The fiskars won’t hurt you and would be a great axe, just don’t get one too heavy. Get just about any axe around a 27” handle (mainly for safety and power) in the 2 lb range for bushcraft stuff and it will work well. The short axes work great too, you get less power in a swing but easier to be accurate initially while learning. I use a short fiskars to split decent size wood to light my sauna stove and doesn’t hurt one bit. Be mindful of the shorter handle and where the head will go if you miss.
I recently found a Tru Temper head that looks much like that Hudson's Bay axe of yours. Not sure of the exact weight but I think its lighter than the one you have, just wondering what length of handle you would recommend hanging it on? I have a number of "felling axes" with 2-3 lb heads and 28-30" handles, was thinking of going with a 20-24" handle for this one.
This is exaxtly what i was looking for, i have that small forest axe and absolutely love it but want it a little longer so I'm going to get its big brother.
I take the short council tool Hudson Bay style, easy to fit in a bag and not a long handle getting hung up on the canoe if attached to the outside of a pack.
Nice collection of axes. It's good to have the right tool for the job. I've got a lot of axes myself and I prefer my double bit axes for heavy work. I also prefer an axe with a little softer temper for the hardwoods I deal with. I've taken big chunks out of a few axes using them on hardwood. I just hate chippy steel. I think some people get too hung up on having a super hard axe that holds its edge forever. They are not only a lot more likely to chip and lose big chunks out of the bits but they suck to sharpen. One of my favorite axes for light work is a Cold Steel, I think it's called the trail boss. It's my cheapest axe by far but it's an awesome design, it's fairly light and is easy to reprofile and keep sharp. If I had to pick one for a survival type axe it's the one I'd pick. I have a lot of tomahawks too and I've seen videos of people recommending them but they really aren't that good for wood processing. They would shine for selfdefence though so in a SHTF situation they'd be good to have. Cool video.😊
Thank you, great points! The trail boss axe looks great on price and design. I have a couple old double bit axes I need to hang but don’t have much experience with them. What are some advantages you like about them?
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse I like how versatile they are. For clearing fence lines and you can have one edge for cutting above ground and the other for grubbing out saplings. Or you can have one edge with a more wedged edge for splitting and a finer edge for cutting and limbing. Or you can just keep two sharp edges so you can switch before you have to stop to sharpen. Probably a lot of why I like them so much is because that's what I grew up using. The only single edged axes we had when I was coming up were hatchets and broadaxes. And I also like how they are better balanced, at least that's how they feel to me.
Ehh idk if it can do everything a knife can I mean it’s possible to skin and gut an animal with an axe but it definitely wouldn’t be better then having a knife to do it with but dang near does everything else better
A boys axe, 2.25# head and a 25” or 26”handle would be the most inexpensive and practical axe to have. I’ve used that length and style (along with other instructors) more than any other design for all around use.
I believe the origins of the tomahawk as a small utility blade and major weapon are great for what it was designed for, it works well as a light duty chopper for making bows, cutting shelter poles etc. but I would rather have an axe. The weight that the axe has behind it makes it much more efficient than a tomahawk and is a lot safer with the longer handle. What Gransfors axes do you like?
I heard the Gransfors Bruks are overrated as general purpose axes and they are better for fine work and/or soft wood? That the steel isn't very hard so they dull somewhat quickly in hard wood?
I’ve used a small forest axe on some white oak I probably had no business using it for, but I haven’t had any issues. I saw a video of a guy rolling his edge on red oak but I’ve never had any trouble
first axe from duluth is exactly what you described, in duluth mn u can see the buildings that are older have that timber frame with the axe marks. very beautiful and they have a lottt of old time tools and such like the taconite pellets and mining tools, boating tools, and of course, woodworking and lumber tools. don’t know much else is needed to know about it
Minus the drawings there’s a kid on eBay that makes some sick af sheaths for reasonable price. Young guy too. No art on them but u want art, put some art on there.
For me Fiskars is really the best. It does the job I want to do really well, splitting wood, and it's lighter due to the hollow handle. Obviously, it does not have wooden handle so you can't replace it, and handle can vibrate. But that's not really issue unless you are chopping wood regularly for long periods of time. Hollow handle and aggressive wedge makes it very good chopper so you are probably going to spend less time and effort swinging anyways. I love long lasting rustic stuff, but at the same time I also look at the utility. With Fiskars, at least medium to short length axes, durability really doesn't seem to be issue anyways, in normal use they seem to last for tens of years. In conclusion, I don't really need my axe to be multi purpose, I have knife for that. And you could still do stuff with Fiskars type blade if needed in pinch, but again, for me I want it to do it's primary job well since that's what I use it for. It's antithesis of rustic axes than can last forever, but you gain some, you lose some. But I would say when axe last some decades, it's already really good.
I've had one with a 23" handle for almost 15 years. Its probably travelled a couple thousand miles by canoe and toboggan, quartered about a dozen moose and a few elk, and fed countless fires. I used to worry that if I broke the handle while in the bush there would be no way to improvise a replacement handle... by now that concern is long gone.
Yes. If your only gonna have one and u don’t care abt antiques or sentimental value etc the fiskars is the only way to go. Good steel. Good handle even tho some hate synthetic, it’s not cause they dont work. The price is right and will be the last handle to break unless your seriously abusing it or have no clue what your doing.
What I need to know is.... are there axes similar in size and appearance to Gransfors Bruk Axes, that are at least only half the price, but nearly as good. A kind of poor man's version of Gransfors Bruk Axes? Like maybe another Swedish company or something?
It's a wool coat we were issued that was contracted out through woolrich. It's nice, thinner wool with a synthetic liner, too loud for hunting with the liner but good for camping and a small amount of added warmth
nice collection.all the way from tamil nadu, india.may i know your favourite axe name? which is 5 pound weight.because,that axe is awesome and i like it.
The big one is a Tuatahi working axe from New Zealand, one I use the most is a Scandinavian forest axe from Gransfors Bruks. Any axe with a 2 1/4 lb. head and 24”-26” handle is the most useful and my favorite
I just recently bought the gränsfors Bruk Scandinavian forest axe and I'm ashamed to admit that I'm not impressed, i love the thing and take it everywhere but if i knew the job and wanted it done I'd pick one of my Billnäs
The best axe is the one you have with you... Most people can't carry 6 or 7 axes around with them and can make do with a good half/boys axe as it'll get most work done eventually. I own more than 270 at any one time and tend to just grab the closest working axe.
Great point, sorry I missed your comment! I agree, the best axe or knife is whatever piece of steel you have, it's always better than a rock. What is your opinion of the billnäs/scandinavian style axe?
I will jump in there. Billnas axes were well made with good steel. The collared design is great because it protects the handle while splitting. I lean toward the American designs because they were developed here for our hardwoods. My experience from using many different designs is either a Dayton or jersey head pattern is about as good as it gets for chopping. I don't split with axes as they are a waste of time and energy in most hardwoods. A good maul will generally get the job done more efficiently. Most of the splitting videos on here are not good. Most people try to center split rounds that are either too large in diameter or sawn too long. Secondly, any large round should be successively split from the sides to the center that is to say going around the round until it is reduced in size. I have plenty of experience with axes. The adage is don't work harder work smarter.
@hillbilly4christ638 I see Billnas axes as being overpriced and particularly hard to re-haft compared to any conventionally eyed axe. I find it amusing seeing this constant attempt to reinvent the axe as the reality is that no other tool has had as much R&D. Additionally, few people actually chop wood these days and use an axe or hatchet for camp duties and clearing. If you want to be a fastidious perfectionist, do the research on the timber you intend to cut and buy a quality moisture meter - Then learn how to use, sharpen and maintain every edge tool you own. And if you just need an axe, you'll find one leaning against something in your grandfather's garage.
@@SurvivalSchoolHousewtf. Where does UA-cam find these people ?! What is he even trying to say? Does he even know? Is he hammered? Trippin balls? Now all the sudden he has your heart??? ❤❤❤ The world needs a reset and fast. 😂
What if I wanted an axe for a prepper kit that's not too heavy, not too long, and will last a long time without breaking? Which axe would you guys suggest?
Yes, the Scandinavian or small forest axe is a good choice or any of the hand forged ones with around a 25” handle, a longer handle like the forest axe will give more leverage to split wood but a shorter handled axe is more packable and will get the job done in a what if scenario. A more inexpensive version would be a standard boys axe with similar dimensions, 2.25 lb. head 26” handle
I was on reddit and this dude made a 20 something lb splitter and thought it was some genius thing. I told him he obviously had never done serious splitting because you don't need much more than 6lbs and a wedge for like anything and a 25lb splitter would be the most inconvenient thing ever if you were splitting and you'd probably get hurt swinging it. Dude argued. I hate reddit
In my experience the best axe for survival is a big knife... Axes are awesome, but if I don't have a big knife, I want a shovel. If I don't have a shovel, then I want an axe.
I want the hunting axe but the one I have is the small forest axe and looks very similar. Doesn’t have the rounded poll (hammer side) and blade and handle are slightly different
good video however, a blade cover for an ax is not called a sheath.....it's a mask........I figure you know that but, gotta get my 2 cents worth....lol
Glad we have the worlds smartest fact checker in the chat to let everyone know how bad they suck. 😂 Oh and it’s leaves. As in leave tf outta here loser.
So many guys believe grain must go straight up and down...and honestly I call b.s ... I have a vintage plumb double bit that needed a handle and purposely picked out and bought the shittiest handle I could find at the local hardware store....it goes against everything axe handle experts have thought for decades....the grain is side to side not straight up and down...there's quiet a bit of run out and it's half heart wood and half sap wood with the seam right up up middle.....and I've beat the shit out of that axe for 3 years testing to see just how bad it could possibly be...and how long it can last with all my abuse amd so far in 3 years with multiple cords of wood cut limbed and split with that axe the handle shows no wear of breaking or being weak.....and infact the only problem I ever had with the handle was in the first year after hanging the axe the handle continued to dry and because of the twisted grain and the heart wood and sap wood drying at different rates the handle did warp....I steam bent it and got it almost perfectly straight again and it has not warped again and it 100 percent fine
Wow, that is interesting. Wood is tough, especially hickory, and if the axe is used properly there is a lot less chance of it breaking, I have seen a lot of broken axe handles and people breaking them in my line of work, I still believe the grain has a lot to do with it mainly because I can relate to wood strength in bow building. When guys start to miss wood and hit the handle or do a lot of prying the chance of breakage greatly increases.
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse that all very true...I have broken axe handles when I was still learning....and can say the perfect straight grain is stronger.....but once you get good and learn how to use the axe very efficiently you can get away with alot in a handle and not brake them as easily as most youtubers would swear you would and a bad Handle full of defects can last year's when most guys think the_ will snap in half on the first blow
@@codyrivenburgh7645 I agree, I have seen a lot that aren't great do fine, it's impossible to get every handle perfect, that's why they primarily use hickory, it's crazy strong
I’m glad someone has as many axes as I do!
Nice! What are some of your favorites that you have or want?
Late to this but same, I don't know how it happened I just aquire um never paid a cent
Just need to keep acquiring as we see them…
If I had handles on all my old heads , I would have more . 😅
Awesome collection. Double bit is my go to for most things. I also had a accident only right in my knee cap. Was using my Fiskers X15 when it happened and was the bottom tip of axe. 5 staples, full recovery and lesson learned.
Oh nice! Did it cut much underneath or more of a surface cut? I felt like mine went way into my shin bone but there was a lot of surface tissue that I thought was bone
My dad ended up cutting himself on the inside of his leg and lost quite a bit of blood from it. He survived, fortunately, but I learned from it. Be very careful with sharp tools. They're great to have around but must be respected. Love your channel.
Thank you Philip! They need to be treated with respect for sure
Thanks for sharing your axe collection. It's a great tool to learn how to use safely and effectively.
You know it! Do you have any favorites?
I’m so glad bill burr is doing ax reviews now.
Haha, I tapped in for a bit and let him finish it out because I got tired.
Awesome stuff, Leif! Keep it up man.
Hey Chris! Good to hear from you!
Use to swing a Council Tool Dayton design 3.5 lb. head ALL day long when I was a wilderness wildland fire fighter for 10 seasons. You can disregard the grain orientation nonsense in the handle as the USFS had grain that went in every direction and I NEVER remember anyone that knew how to use an axe having a broken handle. But give that axe to a newbie and they could break axe handles by damaging the handle where it meets the head, until they got the hang of it. It's how you use it and abuse it, not the grain orientation. I fell trees all day long with an axe as power tools were not allowed in a wilderness area and we depended on the axe for our lives. As long as that grain was hickoy, (not ash) dense and tight, never a problem.
Hickory is the best I agree, I never realized how tough it was until I made bows with it. I've seen a lot of new instructors break axe heads and having good grain orientation helps with their initial mistakes over the weeks of learning however, having perfect grain is impractical in the grand scheme of handle manufacturing. I concur that proper use should not stress the wood enough to break a handle with any grain orientation, misuse from prying, splitting etc. is what I have seen that breaks heads. What other axes have you used that are your favorite? Thank you for your shared knowledge!
where did you get that jacket and hat i love them? i love my old liam hickory axe
I need a more all around axe for camping with focus on splitting but can compete with the carving
That's going to be tough to find, the shorter hudson Bay style axe in the video would be best for that because you can choke up in the handle more for carving but it still splits well. Chop on your knees to minimize the chance of it glancing towards your legs and should hit the ground instead
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse yeah I've split alot of wood I live in maine and most people use wood stoves up here...but I think I might go with the council tools woodcrafting pack axe as I can just baton...really wanted a good splitter to but I think I'm just expecting too much from a smaller axe
I would just get 2 different axes if you live in Maine and split a lot of wood, the smaller fiskars with the splitting wedge built in is for my sauna wood stove and I use the council tool for my house wood stove. Instructors would take the fiskars on the trail and I was surprised how well it split wood. It's always a tough decision, I don't know exactly what you need, life is hard lol
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse yeah a small splitter would be good but honestly I don't have a huge saw to quarter up anything bigger than 7 in. Diameter trees so I unless I get some real twisted or knotty wood it's not going to make a big difference...its mainly just for camping and bushcrafting
Three. One for the big jobs, one for the medium jobs, one for the small jobs. And a couple of 5 to 6 inch fixed blades and a nice assortment of flippers for bush crafting
My birthday is in January and now that the boys are grown and I don't have grandbabies yet It's just me and the dog in the woods. For my birthday Xmas gift for myself I am getting a couple of axes and building a stone fireplace in my tiny house in the woods and I have been trying to get back into shape and I hate peoplie places aka the gym I decided chopping wood, Mom didn't let me when I was younger because well I understand. But wish me luck
So much love and blessings to you all ❤❤❤
Great video, man, and I really like your collection. I recently started on mine and came here for good advice
Nice review. Well done presentation and very knowledgeable. Thank you.
Thank you John! I have a bunch but any piece of steel is great to have vs. a stone axe for survival.
Hi, I've been fascinated and dreaming about this kind of thing for a while-looking at what to buy to start with, that I won't grow out of right away. I'm 61, female and love watching all the wilderness videos! Was looking at the fiskar short hatchet-but keep reading that it hurts to use because of the plastic handle-would you recommend a different first axe/hatchet to start with for me? What kind of weight makes sense for a 5'8" woman? Thanks to anyone who can point me in the right direction!
The fiskars won’t hurt you and would be a great axe, just don’t get one too heavy. Get just about any axe around a 27” handle (mainly for safety and power) in the 2 lb range for bushcraft stuff and it will work well. The short axes work great too, you get less power in a swing but easier to be accurate initially while learning. I use a short fiskars to split decent size wood to light my sauna stove and doesn’t hurt one bit. Be mindful of the shorter handle and where the head will go if you miss.
I recently found a Tru Temper head that looks much like that Hudson's Bay axe of yours. Not sure of the exact weight but I think its lighter than the one you have, just wondering what length of handle you would recommend hanging it on? I have a number of "felling axes" with 2-3 lb heads and 28-30" handles, was thinking of going with a 20-24" handle for this one.
This is exaxtly what i was looking for, i have that small forest axe and absolutely love it but want it a little longer so I'm going to get its big brother.
It’s great and won’t treat you wrong
What jacket are you wearing
A will jacket from Woolrich, it was a special order to our survival school
i have hurd that a 45 degre angel is best for that grain oreantation from an old timer would like to hear what people have to say about that
Awesome video I appreciate the knowledge. Subscribed!
Thank you sir!
Great video thank you what would you recommend for a canoe I am looking for a great Axe to carry in my canoe
I take the short council tool Hudson Bay style, easy to fit in a bag and not a long handle getting hung up on the canoe if attached to the outside of a pack.
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse great thanks
I have one as well primarily used by lumberjacks.
One? One what? An axe? 😂
Nice collection ! There just cooler then knive and more versatile to me. But I was brought on axe use.
I agree, that are amazing
Nice collection of axes. It's good to have the right tool for the job. I've got a lot of axes myself and I prefer my double bit axes for heavy work. I also prefer an axe with a little softer temper for the hardwoods I deal with. I've taken big chunks out of a few axes using them on hardwood. I just hate chippy steel. I think some people get too hung up on having a super hard axe that holds its edge forever. They are not only a lot more likely to chip and lose big chunks out of the bits but they suck to sharpen. One of my favorite axes for light work is a Cold Steel, I think it's called the trail boss. It's my cheapest axe by far but it's an awesome design, it's fairly light and is easy to reprofile and keep sharp. If I had to pick one for a survival type axe it's the one I'd pick. I have a lot of tomahawks too and I've seen videos of people recommending them but they really aren't that good for wood processing. They would shine for selfdefence though so in a SHTF situation they'd be good to have. Cool video.😊
Thank you, great points! The trail boss axe looks great on price and design. I have a couple old double bit axes I need to hang but don’t have much experience with them. What are some advantages you like about them?
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse I like how versatile they are. For clearing fence lines and you can have one edge for cutting above ground and the other for grubbing out saplings. Or you can have one edge with a more wedged edge for splitting and a finer edge for cutting and limbing. Or you can just keep two sharp edges so you can switch before you have to stop to sharpen. Probably a lot of why I like them so much is because that's what I grew up using. The only single edged axes we had when I was coming up were hatchets and broadaxes. And I also like how they are better balanced, at least that's how they feel to me.
Ehh idk if it can do everything a knife can I mean it’s possible to skin and gut an animal with an axe but it definitely wouldn’t be better then having a knife to do it with but dang near does everything else better
Which would you recommend as the best first all around axe to buy/have?
A boys axe, 2.25# head and a 25” or 26”handle would be the most inexpensive and practical axe to have. I’ve used that length and style (along with other instructors) more than any other design for all around use.
Council tools Dayton or boys axe. NOBODY dislikes their council tools. Reasonable prices ass-well. Best handles on the market too.
Great info. I have two Granfors Bruk's that are outstanding. Would you give me your advice on axe vs tomahawk?
I believe the origins of the tomahawk as a small utility blade and major weapon are great for what it was designed for, it works well as a light duty chopper for making bows, cutting shelter poles etc. but I would rather have an axe. The weight that the axe has behind it makes it much more efficient than a tomahawk and is a lot safer with the longer handle. What Gransfors axes do you like?
I heard the Gransfors Bruks are overrated as general purpose axes and they are better for fine work and/or soft wood? That the steel isn't very hard so they dull somewhat quickly in hard wood?
I’ve used a small forest axe on some white oak I probably had no business using it for, but I haven’t had any issues. I saw a video of a guy rolling his edge on red oak but I’ve never had any trouble
love my "Michigan" double bitted axe got it at a pawn shop for $10 !!!!
That's awesome, I love finds like that, it doesn't happen too often for me
Being from Michigan I agree. His axe is probably the best ever conceived.
first axe from duluth is exactly what you described, in duluth mn u can see the buildings that are older have that timber frame with the axe marks. very beautiful and they have a lottt of old time tools and such like the taconite pellets and mining tools, boating tools, and of course, woodworking and lumber tools. don’t know much else is needed to know about it
Such an interesting axe, Duluth is rich with 100 year old beams and rough sawn lumber.
I have a family heirloom of my own.
Mine is from Michigan and was made locally and only markings are that it's stamped with my ancestor initials.
Those heavy axe sheaths you make are awesome. I don’t suppose there’s anywhere to buy them with the deer on them like the one at the end?
Minus the drawings there’s a kid on eBay that makes some sick af sheaths for reasonable price. Young guy too. No art on them but u want art, put some art on there.
Tired of seein the amazon affiliate links everywhere damnit... glad i found ya mate
Haha thank you, not paid to promote these, just what I have
i have a 3.8 pound axe head, I want to add a handle, I want to go small in length so, what is your recommended size handle for 3 pound axe?
Council tool makes the best handles on earth. Just fyi.
Which do you recommend more, the council tools boys axe or the GB Scandinavian? Thanks!
I feel like I get less vibration with the Scandinavian forest axe and fits my frame perfectly. I like that one better
@@SurvivalSchoolHousecouncil has the best store bought handles on the market today. Hands down.
Anyone know a good utility axe that splits wood and fells trees?
Council tool Dayton will be good not necessarily great at everything. Nobody dislikes their council Dayton.
That New Zealand axe resembles a spanish axe I saw in another video.
Great video! I really enjoyed it! Thanks!👍 cheers from north of the border
Thank you Kettle, I need to get up there more and play someday
That large axe you were holding before is a Broad Axe.
Hewing axe
❤ awesome collection
Thank you for this video. Subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse hey can i asl you a question? My axe handle chipped badly
What can i do to fix it?
Whats the name or brand of the ax you said 5lb ?
Was it the Tuatahi? From New Zealand, practice racing axe
good info thanks!
Thank you
Awsome dude!
Thanks!
Great video
Very helpful thank you.
Thank you Richard, let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks!
For me Fiskars is really the best. It does the job I want to do really well, splitting wood, and it's lighter due to the hollow handle. Obviously, it does not have wooden handle so you can't replace it, and handle can vibrate. But that's not really issue unless you are chopping wood regularly for long periods of time. Hollow handle and aggressive wedge makes it very good chopper so you are probably going to spend less time and effort swinging anyways.
I love long lasting rustic stuff, but at the same time I also look at the utility. With Fiskars, at least medium to short length axes, durability really doesn't seem to be issue anyways, in normal use they seem to last for tens of years.
In conclusion, I don't really need my axe to be multi purpose, I have knife for that. And you could still do stuff with Fiskars type blade if needed in pinch, but again, for me I want it to do it's primary job well since that's what I use it for. It's antithesis of rustic axes than can last forever, but you gain some, you lose some. But I would say when axe last some decades, it's already really good.
I've had one with a 23" handle for almost 15 years. Its probably travelled a couple thousand miles by canoe and toboggan, quartered about a dozen moose and a few elk, and fed countless fires. I used to worry that if I broke the handle while in the bush there would be no way to improvise a replacement handle... by now that concern is long gone.
Yes. If your only gonna have one and u don’t care abt antiques or sentimental value etc the fiskars is the only way to go. Good steel. Good handle even tho some hate synthetic, it’s not cause they dont work. The price is right and will be the last handle to break unless your seriously abusing it or have no clue what your doing.
Very nice collection. I'm jealous
Thank you! It took me a longgggg time
What I need to know is.... are there axes similar in size and appearance to Gransfors Bruk Axes, that are at least only half the price, but nearly as good. A kind of poor man's version of Gransfors Bruk Axes? Like maybe another Swedish company or something?
Council tools. USA made. Best handles on the market.
thank you for the video
You're welcome Bill!
I live in India; I want to buy an axe like the big one but i could not. Nice collection.
Thank you, the big one is fun but heavy! Good to hear from you in India!
Why could u not? Hmmm? Too poor like me or they don’t have them? Not allowed? What’s the deal lol😂
I now what it is for because I went on a field trip to Mackinac island
Been there several times. 😂 but u know what, what is?
What kind of shirt/coat are you wearing?
It's a wool coat we were issued that was contracted out through woolrich. It's nice, thinner wool with a synthetic liner, too loud for hunting with the liner but good for camping and a small amount of added warmth
Never seen that broad-axe before
Hewing axe.
nice collection.all the way from tamil nadu, india.may i know your favourite axe name? which is 5 pound weight.because,that axe is awesome and i like it.
The big one is a Tuatahi working axe from New Zealand, one I use the most is a Scandinavian forest axe from Gransfors Bruks. Any axe with a 2 1/4 lb. head and 24”-26” handle is the most useful and my favorite
I just recently bought the gränsfors Bruk Scandinavian forest axe and I'm ashamed to admit that I'm not impressed, i love the thing and take it everywhere but if i knew the job and wanted it done I'd pick one of my Billnäs
I would consider a Billnas as well however, they are not made anymore...
This billnyes are weird. Singing abt kid trannies and shiz. Unreal u finnes love them so much.
The best axe is the one you have with you... Most people can't carry 6 or 7 axes around with them and can make do with a good half/boys axe as it'll get most work done eventually. I own more than 270 at any one time and tend to just grab the closest working axe.
Great point, sorry I missed your comment! I agree, the best axe or knife is whatever piece of steel you have, it's always better than a rock. What is your opinion of the billnäs/scandinavian style axe?
I will jump in there. Billnas axes were well made with good steel. The collared design is great because it protects the handle while splitting. I lean toward the American designs because they were developed here for our hardwoods. My experience from using many different designs is either a Dayton or jersey head pattern is about as good as it gets for chopping. I don't split with axes as they are a waste of time and energy in most hardwoods. A good maul will generally get the job done more efficiently. Most of the splitting videos on here are not good. Most people try to center split rounds that are either too large in diameter or sawn too long. Secondly, any large round should be successively split from the sides to the center that is to say going around the round until it is reduced in size. I have plenty of experience with axes. The adage is don't work harder work smarter.
@hillbilly4christ638 I see Billnas axes as being overpriced and particularly hard to re-haft compared to any conventionally eyed axe. I find it amusing seeing this constant attempt to reinvent the axe as the reality is that no other tool has had as much R&D. Additionally, few people actually chop wood these days and use an axe or hatchet for camp duties and clearing. If you want to be a fastidious perfectionist, do the research on the timber you intend to cut and buy a quality moisture meter - Then learn how to use, sharpen and maintain every edge tool you own. And if you just need an axe, you'll find one leaning against something in your grandfather's garage.
I have an axe to grind with you, LOL, great video.
u can drill on ax side to swrew to fix ..red nose:)
Thank you for the red nose comment, I really appreciate it!
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse if u so l take ur heart😁
@@SurvivalSchoolHousewtf. Where does UA-cam find these people ?! What is he even trying to say? Does he even know? Is he hammered? Trippin balls? Now all the sudden he has your heart??? ❤❤❤
The world needs a reset and fast. 😂
What about tge skinny one? Thats the reason I clicked!
I cuss out and swear at the dirt when I chip my Pulaski on the fireline stobbing.
never seen one of those axes - but never heard of it
Which one?
@@SurvivalSchoolHouseyou kno…..the one u showed. 😂😂😂
What if I wanted an axe for a prepper kit that's not too heavy, not too long, and will last a long time without breaking? Which axe would you guys suggest?
Gransfors Bruks scandinavian or small forest
Yes, the Scandinavian or small forest axe is a good choice or any of the hand forged ones with around a 25” handle, a longer handle like the forest axe will give more leverage to split wood but a shorter handled axe is more packable and will get the job done in a what if scenario. A more inexpensive version would be a standard boys axe with similar dimensions, 2.25 lb. head 26” handle
25"+ axe and get a machete kurkri. Kurkris are great for an all round survival tool.
Council tool boys ax. It will get the job done
I was on reddit and this dude made a 20 something lb splitter and thought it was some genius thing. I told him he obviously had never done serious splitting because you don't need much more than 6lbs and a wedge for like anything and a 25lb splitter would be the most inconvenient thing ever if you were splitting and you'd probably get hurt swinging it. Dude argued. I hate reddit
lol! I agree with you, a 25lb splitter is ridiculous, he has never split wood for any length of time
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse reddit is terrible
You've a lot of aces to grind.
In my experience the best axe for survival is a big knife... Axes are awesome, but if I don't have a big knife, I want a shovel. If I don't have a shovel, then I want an axe.
You haven't Russian axe - they are perfect for wood work😊😊
I would like one, any recommendations?
Good video/....
Thank you Bryan!
One of these axes is a hunting ax from Gränfors Bruks. You can skin an animal with it. Why don't you name it?
I want the hunting axe but the one I have is the small forest axe and looks very similar. Doesn’t have the rounded poll (hammer side) and blade and handle are slightly different
Why don't they make just one size of an ax that fits all? No, because that would be one Hell of Ax and There, I just answered my own question. Wow man
Wtf 😂
I am still looking for a person who had to rely on an axe for survival other than eskimos who use chainsaws now.
If I had one tool it would be an axe however, there are so many more toys to play with now
Привет, Женька Чебатков 😂😂😂
Grain orientation is far less important than runout... Many comp handles lack straight grain yet will never show any sign of runout.
I should've mentioned that, exact same with bow making which is the most stressful on wood.
...all my axes are in Texas...
Im watching this because i want the best axe i can get
I got a lot of wood to take care of
I'll take a double bit over anything any day
Double bits are great, why do you prefer them?
good video however, a blade cover for an ax is not called a sheath.....it's a mask........I figure you know that but, gotta get my 2 cents worth....lol
That's the axe that killed my papy
Can I axe 🪓 you a question 🤣💀👍🏼🇺🇸🥃
Lol! I’m an axe man all the way
If I wanted to fight a bear...
Leaf? or Leif? because thats not how you pronounce "Leif"
Glad we have the worlds smartest fact checker in the chat to let everyone know how bad they suck. 😂
Oh and it’s leaves. As in leave tf outta here loser.
Estwing beats all of those. I will never use anything else ever again..
🤣🙄.... bruh. Not saying Estwing axes can't be good axes... but... no way, man.
Dude. The estwing guys are on one! Decent tools, FAR from the best. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
So many guys believe grain must go straight up and down...and honestly I call b.s ... I have a vintage plumb double bit that needed a handle and purposely picked out and bought the shittiest handle I could find at the local hardware store....it goes against everything axe handle experts have thought for decades....the grain is side to side not straight up and down...there's quiet a bit of run out and it's half heart wood and half sap wood with the seam right up up middle.....and I've beat the shit out of that axe for 3 years testing to see just how bad it could possibly be...and how long it can last with all my abuse amd so far in 3 years with multiple cords of wood cut limbed and split with that axe the handle shows no wear of breaking or being weak.....and infact the only problem I ever had with the handle was in the first year after hanging the axe the handle continued to dry and because of the twisted grain and the heart wood and sap wood drying at different rates the handle did warp....I steam bent it and got it almost perfectly straight again and it has not warped again and it 100 percent fine
Wow, that is interesting. Wood is tough, especially hickory, and if the axe is used properly there is a lot less chance of it breaking, I have seen a lot of broken axe handles and people breaking them in my line of work, I still believe the grain has a lot to do with it mainly because I can relate to wood strength in bow building. When guys start to miss wood and hit the handle or do a lot of prying the chance of breakage greatly increases.
@@SurvivalSchoolHouse that all very true...I have broken axe handles when I was still learning....and can say the perfect straight grain is stronger.....but once you get good and learn how to use the axe very efficiently you can get away with alot in a handle and not brake them as easily as most youtubers would swear you would and a bad Handle full of defects can last year's when most guys think the_ will snap in half on the first blow
@@codyrivenburgh7645 I agree, I have seen a lot that aren't great do fine, it's impossible to get every handle perfect, that's why they primarily use hickory, it's crazy strong
what about axe killing people
Axe কুড়াল
I'm black, and I want to ax you a question.
I don't see any Japanese Axes & Woodworking Saws, Tools.🪚🪓🤔🇯🇵⛩️🎏👘
Japanese have them, they're axe just aren't popular that's all