Lol I did pretty much the same thing on a pelican. The storage under the seat it the best thing ever. I can put my two tackle boxes anchor and drift sock under there. Its amazing how much room that alone makes in a kayak.
What’s so annoying to me is that manufactures must know that these are things many users would appreciate, yet they don’t build kayaks and motors pre-set up for this type of set up. Hopefully they’ll catch on in time
Trolling motor wiring questions for you. After you cut the shaft down you were left with 3 or 4 wires correct? How did you extend these wires? I found Minn Kota’s guide on extending the power wires and various gauges of wire required. If you have to extend all of the wires did you use the same gauge and type of wires for all wires (different colours obviously) or were different types required? I am hoping to put something together before spring, but expect it will be closer to your v1.
Hey man! Sorry late reply, but to answer your questions I had 4 wires. Two were for the battery the other two were for the motor itself. I did not have to extend or cut the battery wires, but rather I fed them to the outlet that you see behind my seat, then built an extension from the outlet (female) housing to the other side which you will see when I display the inside of the box. The other ones I did extend, and yes same gauge wire, and all i did was cut the wire and intertwine the two and connected them with electrical tape . Easy peasy man! Let me know if you have anymore questions! If you live close let's get on the water!
I’m very interested on how you rigged up your troller controller. Is there a button u push to go forward and reverse? Right now I’m using. PWM controller. It works great when it works properly but it’s been acting up here lately and I’m looking for something that’s more dependable.
There's no button! All I did was retrofit a piece on the existing input. All I did was cut down the handle and housing of the unit itself. I did not change any of the parts in the housing, just took the majority of excess material off!
Great video - thanks for the update. A couple of quick questions for you: 1. How long did you make the new shaft? 2. How do you raise/lower the motor when you get shallow (or can you)? Love to see a video of how you did the speed control box and voltage/battery level tied into that. I have a similar motor with the Traxxis 45, but have been using a milk crate side mount that I MacGyvered together myself - works ok but may look at rear mounting in the future. I wanted to use the trolling motor on another boat this year, but may fully dedicate it to my kayak in the future. One last thing. Do you have something in the box to keep the battery in one spot? I found that my battery would shift and nearly caused me to tip on my first trip. No issues after I forced it to stay in one spot. Thanks and subscribed after v1!
Hey friend! Good questions and I appreciate the sub and comments! Ok so the length of the shaft, fully depends on the make of the motor as well as the make of the kayak. I made the transom mount first, then from there, mounted the motor on, and measured directly above the transom mount where the pipe was, and marked it there. If you follow those steps, you should be in good shape for your motor length. As for raising and lowering, I eliminated that solely because if I am to hit the motor on something, the kayak would hit ground first, and I would have to get out regardless. The hull of the boat in the middle sits almost exactly at the same level as the motor. The times I have hit the motor were on sharp turns where it would whip the back end into something, but that was because of poor judgment haha. And for the battery, I let it roam free in the box. It usually is pinned against the emergency kit and stays in the middle of the box, and the weight of it keeps in in check, but you could always attach a battery box from the bottom of the box and keep it in place that way! Thanks again for the comment hope this helps!
Awesome setup! what screws did you use to screw down the L brackets for the trolling motor mount? I can't reach the inside of my kayak at the stern, so I won't be able to use nuts on the inside
Heavy duty anchors. www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin-3-16s-hollow-wall-anchors-12pcs/1000409785 Similar to these if not exactly these. When you screw them in they expand and dig into the interior of the kayak. I can lift up the kayak with the mount because of how well they are attached!
Nice set up....simple yet very functional
Best kind of set up!
Lol I did pretty much the same thing on a pelican. The storage under the seat it the best thing ever. I can put my two tackle boxes anchor and drift sock under there. Its amazing how much room that alone makes in a kayak.
I couldn't agree more!!!
Nice set up. Awesome transit and steering !! I love the simplisity and it's super light weight.
Amen!
Great stuff man. Followed on YT and IG.
You're the man!
What’s so annoying to me is that manufactures must know that these are things many users would appreciate, yet they don’t build kayaks and motors pre-set up for this type of set up. Hopefully they’ll catch on in time
Yea I agree, it makes more sense for them to build basic and let us (the consumer) do all the hard work :P
Trolling motor wiring questions for you. After you cut the shaft down you were left with 3 or 4 wires correct? How did you extend these wires? I found Minn Kota’s guide on extending the power wires and various gauges of wire required. If you have to extend all of the wires did you use the same gauge and type of wires for all wires (different colours obviously) or were different types required? I am hoping to put something together before spring, but expect it will be closer to your v1.
Hey man! Sorry late reply, but to answer your questions I had 4 wires. Two were for the battery the other two were for the motor itself. I did not have to extend or cut the battery wires, but rather I fed them to the outlet that you see behind my seat, then built an extension from the outlet (female) housing to the other side which you will see when I display the inside of the box. The other ones I did extend, and yes same gauge wire, and all i did was cut the wire and intertwine the two and connected them with electrical tape . Easy peasy man! Let me know if you have anymore questions! If you live close let's get on the water!
I’m very interested on how you rigged up your troller controller. Is there a button u push to go forward and reverse? Right now I’m using. PWM controller. It works great when it works properly but it’s been acting up here lately and I’m looking for something that’s more dependable.
There's no button! All I did was retrofit a piece on the existing input. All I did was cut down the handle and housing of the unit itself. I did not change any of the parts in the housing, just took the majority of excess material off!
I like it.
Fantastic!
Did you think about a bilge pump?
Great video - thanks for the update.
A couple of quick questions for you:
1. How long did you make the new shaft?
2. How do you raise/lower the motor when you get shallow (or can you)?
Love to see a video of how you did the speed control box and voltage/battery level tied into that.
I have a similar motor with the Traxxis 45, but have been using a milk crate side mount that I MacGyvered together myself - works ok but may look at rear mounting in the future. I wanted to use the trolling motor on another boat this year, but may fully dedicate it to my kayak in the future.
One last thing. Do you have something in the box to keep the battery in one spot? I found that my battery would shift and nearly caused me to tip on my first trip. No issues after I forced it to stay in one spot.
Thanks and subscribed after v1!
Hey friend! Good questions and I appreciate the sub and comments! Ok so the length of the shaft, fully depends on the make of the motor as well as the make of the kayak. I made the transom mount first, then from there, mounted the motor on, and measured directly above the transom mount where the pipe was, and marked it there. If you follow those steps, you should be in good shape for your motor length.
As for raising and lowering, I eliminated that solely because if I am to hit the motor on something, the kayak would hit ground first, and I would have to get out regardless. The hull of the boat in the middle sits almost exactly at the same level as the motor. The times I have hit the motor were on sharp turns where it would whip the back end into something, but that was because of poor judgment haha.
And for the battery, I let it roam free in the box. It usually is pinned against the emergency kit and stays in the middle of the box, and the weight of it keeps in in check, but you could always attach a battery box from the bottom of the box and keep it in place that way!
Thanks again for the comment hope this helps!
Liked and subscribed
Hope you're super excited 😉
Thanks for the video
Always excited for a new subscriber! Thank you for the like and comment too!
what a great informative video.
Awesome setup! what screws did you use to screw down the L brackets for the trolling motor mount? I can't reach the inside of my kayak at the stern, so I won't be able to use nuts on the inside
Heavy duty anchors. www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin-3-16s-hollow-wall-anchors-12pcs/1000409785 Similar to these if not exactly these. When you screw them in they expand and dig into the interior of the kayak. I can lift up the kayak with the mount because of how well they are attached!
The Fishing Forecast That’s perfect! finally a solution without having to add a rear hatch, thanks my man🙏🏽
@@hpcoo37 No worries my man! Tight lines!
Your better off dumping the minn kota head unit and replacing it with a pwm, your battery will last twice as long.
Good call! At this point, I think I’m just gonna invest in the Hobie Pro Angler aha!
Seal off the top of the motor tube. There is a brushed motor down there. Water will kill it
Sorry late reply! That's some great advice, thank you so much for the comment.
What was the name of the crate you used that fit so perfect???
This is the Plano 56 Quart Tote Tub, it's around 20$ Canadian, and is honestly a PERFECT FIT!
Replace your boat anchor battery with a lithium iron phosphate drop in replacement with more usable energy and 1/4 the weight.
Way more money though no?
@@TheFishingForecast And way more service life. so be penny wise and pound foolish if you want the choice is yours.
What epoxy did you use
Marine epoxy!
I don't see a circuit breaker?
I don't follow. I am by no means an electrician so any help is appreciated. My buddy who helped me is however, so I'll have to get back to you!