Another great video. I watched several of your videos when I first started brewing. I now need to watch them all again since I have a little more knowledge vs last year.
Cheers John, great to hear. This year sees a new series that will take those new to brewing through a course of videos that I hope will help with early choices and progression into brewings advanced topics in time.
I think a PRV is an important part of pressure fermenting, but only as a fail safe with the spunding valve and a quick way to relieve pressure. Good video!
Hi David, again a good Brewing Bad. I didn't know the effect of slow down the circulation! Nice to know. And I like the new light pressure release valves. Thanks for your information. Cheers
Awesome video again! This just has to be the best series made for homebrewers on UA-cam. Each episode provides new areas of learning for me, which is really appreciated.
First point is a keeper for me. One issue is that at times some residue blocks the sieve and lifts it. I think I’ll slightly adjust my crush to coarser following your description
@@DavidHeathHomebrew agree. Tried it today. I went from the usual 72-74% to 80. My bo pils will be 5.3ish instead of 4.9. Will try another time looking at pre boil and stretch the recipe if needed adding water and hops. Then adjust future orders. Thanks!!
Good info. Especially the valve which I have used to reduce flow during mash, maybe that's why I get low efficiency sometimes. This information I have not seen anywhere, and the manual from Brewzilla is very limited in information. Big thanks my man👍
I thought going full flow at the start (before the grain bed has settled) would cause channelling through the mash amd therefore low efficiency. I tend to stir and leave it 10mins, then run slow for ten mins, then gradually go up to around 60-70% open.
Love this series David! It’s almost like you read my mind and put up content to answer my questions. I’m slowly adding cornies (2 so far) and will be buying or building a kegerator/keezer. Was totally confused about how to set different carb levels per corny, so thanks again for the superior content! You rock!!! 🤘🏼😎 (For now I have completely commandeered our garage fridge as my temporary kegerator, which doesn’t thrill my wife lol)
Great video! The All in One mistake is something I have been doing for the last two years with my BrewZilla, I’ll try out full flow in my next Gose brew day
Struggled with spunding valve with 1st Marzen in Corney Keg (4.25G). Used 34/70 yeast (1 pkg) and Kraussen made a mess. At Day3 switched to blow off airlock for 5 days and re-installed spunding valve - holding at 7 psi. Any ideas on how to setup spunding valve ? No instructions with valve.
I do like your series but this episode didn't apply to a lot of brewers out there. It is only a 5% of brewers who this apply to (at least here in Europe). But still, you've helped them, which is good.
I would think that this would apply to more than 5% of brewers. Using kegs is popular, as is pressure fermentation. Most all in one systems have a valve too.
Hey David, Can you elaborate on the fact that you once told us (one of the imperial stout videos) to keep stirring the mash every 20-25 minutes to get higher efficiency. I've done this ever since, which also has resulted in brews that were pretty bothersome. The past few brews I've let the mash overflow(like this video mentioned) and had a much easier time.
The stirring technique is one that I personally only recommend and use for high ABV beers where you are looking to maximise efficiency. This should not be needed at all for other beer types.
Thanks for the video David. Am I correct in that you're not saying don't force carbonate, rather it's safer to carb slowly as over-carbonation means higher carbonic acid + resulting sharpness and under-carbonation also not great?
Thank u for this very informative video. As a newbie in using keglands inline regulators, I wonder how reliable and accurate the meters are? Did u ever notice issues?
Thank you, glad you found it useful. I have been using Keglands inline regulators for a long time now and find them to be accurate enough for my needs. I've not had any issues at all.
I hope one day i actually get to use kegs and apply the valuable knowledge in this video. 😕 i bottle the beer everytime because i am the only who ever drinks it
I must say that I disagree with you statement on controlling the flow of the mash. I achieve 84% mash efficiency as a minimum, but usually it is over that, and I control the flow to ensure that the level over the top plate is stable. I use a fairly fine grain crush, and avoid rice hulls unless over 10% wheat is involved. I have found that going full flow as you advice will drain wort from underneath the grain basket and result in burned wort on the element, besides that, you have no idea if the mash is stuck or not, until you start the sparge. I guess we have learned to work the equipment in different ways, and that there are many ways to skin a cat.
It is fair to say that the equipment can be used in this way, if you can find the sweet spot. The fact is though that this is not how the equipment was designed to be used. With the right crush there will be no burnt wort during the mash as long as you scrape the bottom as GF advise during the boil several times. If the mash was stuck then it would cause constant over flow, a stuck sparge is something different in fact. It is actually easier to use a GF the intended way, though I can understand that now you have made it work this way then there is little need to change.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Perhaps thaifoodtakeaway is using the Brewzilla instead of the Grainfather. I am wondering if this may be a design or design consideration difference between the Grainfather and the Brewzilla. In the instructions for the Brewzilla, it is stated that the valve at the female camlock fitting may be used to control recirculation mash flow and I too have thus far had the impression that the recirculation flow rate should be adjusted so as not to utilize the overflow tube. I have brewed 28 5.25 gallon all-grain batches using this method (controlling the recirc rate with the ball valve) with my Brewzilla since March of this year (2021) and I have been using this method with success, although my average brew efficiency for these batches is currently just under 80% (79.92%) and not the 84% stated by thaifoodtakeaway. I am curious if you have had any interaction with Kegland regarding the use of this valve in the Brewzilla and if you would minid sharing their thought on this. Opening that valve up would indeed make an already enjoyable and easy task yet easier. Thank you from the USA for all of your very instructional and informative videos! These are pure gold!
Another great video. I watched several of your videos when I first started brewing. I now need to watch them all again since I have a little more knowledge vs last year.
Thank you. Great to hear that you find them useful :)
I'm new to brewing and I'm finding your blue bad series quite informative I thank you so much and just subscribe to your channel today thank you
Cheers John, great to hear. This year sees a new series that will take those new to brewing through a course of videos that I hope will help with early choices and progression into brewings advanced topics in time.
I GREATLY appreciate your vid on drying yeast! I am subscribed and a big 👍🏻 to you! So glad I found your channel.
Awesome! Thank you Brent :)
Another great contribution. I wasn’t aware of the alternative PRV pressures. Thanks David
Thanks Phil, glad you found it to be useful.
I think a PRV is an important part of pressure fermenting, but only as a fail safe with the spunding valve and a quick way to relieve pressure. Good video!
Absolutely. It is fit for it's purpose but nothing further :) Glad you enjoyed this one 🍺🍺🍺
Hi David, again a good Brewing Bad. I didn't know the effect of slow down the circulation! Nice to know. And I like the new light pressure release valves. Thanks for your information. Cheers
Cheers Chris 🍺🍺🍺
Awesome video again! This just has to be the best series made for homebrewers on UA-cam. Each episode provides new areas of learning for me, which is really appreciated.
Many thanks Alan, very good to hear 🍺🍺🍺
Most interesting, specially the part about wrong pressure in the keg can lead to off flavor. Thanks for your video 🙏👍😊
Cheers Allan. I am glad you found it interesting :)
Just great amazing content as always, the success of my beers is in great measure thanks to you! Keep it up David, really really thankful!
Many thanks Jamie, that is awesome to hear :)
First point is a keeper for me. One issue is that at times some residue blocks the sieve and lifts it. I think I’ll slightly adjust my crush to coarser following your description
Great. Your graincrush is key to the brew, so as such it is well worth perfecting.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew agree. Tried it today. I went from the usual 72-74% to 80. My bo pils will be 5.3ish instead of 4.9. Will try another time looking at pre boil and stretch the recipe if needed adding water and hops. Then adjust future orders.
Thanks!!
Great :) Be sure to dial it in for future brews :)
Good info. Especially the valve which I have used to reduce flow during mash, maybe that's why I get low efficiency sometimes. This information I have not seen anywhere, and the manual from Brewzilla is very limited in information. Big thanks my man👍
Cheers Pask.. Glad you found it useful :)
I thought going full flow at the start (before the grain bed has settled) would cause channelling through the mash amd therefore low efficiency. I tend to stir and leave it 10mins, then run slow for ten mins, then gradually go up to around 60-70% open.
It works well :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew more than one way to skin a cat as my granny used to say!
Sure is :)
Love this series David! It’s almost like you read my mind and put up content to answer my questions. I’m slowly adding cornies (2 so far) and will be buying or building a kegerator/keezer. Was totally confused about how to set different carb levels per corny, so thanks again for the superior content! You rock!!! 🤘🏼😎 (For now I have completely commandeered our garage fridge as my temporary kegerator, which doesn’t thrill my wife lol)
Great to hear Noel :) These things can be very simple.
Great video! The All in One mistake is something I have been doing for the last two years with my BrewZilla, I’ll try out full flow in my next Gose brew day
Thank you. Great to hear :)
More great stuff!! Cheers! 👍🍻
Thank you! Cheers Brian :)
Please convert imperial pressure values to metric, like you do with temperature. Cheers and thanks for the good content.
Thanks for the feedback :)
Hooray! Love these videos! Thanks, David. I do need to read up on the pressure by volume thing, I only understand psi :D
Thank you, great to hear. I am happy with this series, It allows me to cover various topics in one video :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew It's incredibly helpful!
Great, that is it's purpose 🍺🍺🍺
Another excellent very helpful video. Thank you :)
Many thanks Paul, great to hear :)
Hey David,
What are your thoughts on Carb stones for quick Carbonation without having to jack up the PSI?
Turning up the pressure and rocking the keg works.
Hey David! Great video. I was wondering what your opinion is - what is the optimal temperature to carbonate at? Thanks!
Hi Mike, That would be within the yeasts temperature range. The higher the faster usually.
Hi Dave, these pressure release valves sound great, but where can I buy them? Google search gives me only one with 35 PSI.
I do not recommend them :)
Struggled with spunding valve with 1st Marzen in Corney Keg (4.25G). Used 34/70 yeast (1 pkg) and Kraussen made a mess. At Day3 switched to blow off airlock for 5 days and re-installed spunding valve - holding at 7 psi. Any ideas on how to setup spunding valve ? No instructions with valve.
Can you provide a link to the spunding valve you are using? Then I can hopefully help, they can be different :)
I do like your series but this episode didn't apply to a lot of brewers out there. It is only a 5% of brewers who this apply to (at least here in Europe). But still, you've helped them, which is good.
I would think that this would apply to more than 5% of brewers. Using kegs is popular, as is pressure fermentation. Most all in one systems have a valve too.
Hey David,
Can you elaborate on the fact that you once told us (one of the imperial stout videos) to keep stirring the mash every 20-25 minutes to get higher efficiency. I've done this ever since, which also has resulted in brews that were pretty bothersome. The past few brews I've let the mash overflow(like this video mentioned) and had a much easier time.
The stirring technique is one that I personally only recommend and use for high ABV beers where you are looking to maximise efficiency. This should not be needed at all for other beer types.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew this makes a lot of sense. Thank you for answering and please keep up the good work with your informative videos! Cheers ☺️
@@ProXiE89 Great, anytime :)
Thanks for the video David. Am I correct in that you're not saying don't force carbonate, rather it's safer to carb slowly as over-carbonation means higher carbonic acid + resulting sharpness and under-carbonation also not great?
Yes, exactly that. Force carbonation can certainly be used, just be careful to not do this for too long
Thank u for this very informative video. As a newbie in using keglands inline regulators, I wonder how reliable and accurate the meters are? Did u ever notice issues?
Thank you, glad you found it useful.
I have been using Keglands inline regulators for a long time now and find them to be accurate enough for my needs. I've not had any issues at all.
Mye bra tips der
Tusen takk :)
I hope one day i actually get to use kegs and apply the valuable knowledge in this video. 😕 i bottle the beer everytime because i am the only who ever drinks it
You never look back once you have kegs :)
the inline regulators are definetly expensive ther a minimum of 45 bucks each where i live
I am not sure which country you are in but the Kegland regulators and not what I would call expensive at less that 15 US dollars each.
Wow, I never knew it was designed to.go full flow.
How long do you think before a) recirculating at all during the mash and b) recirculating to stop going down the middle (roughly)
Sure was. About 10 minutes at the most.
I must say that I disagree with you statement on controlling the flow of the mash. I achieve 84% mash efficiency as a minimum, but usually it is over that, and I control the flow to ensure that the level over the top plate is stable. I use a fairly fine grain crush, and avoid rice hulls unless over 10% wheat is involved.
I have found that going full flow as you advice will drain wort from underneath the grain basket and result in burned wort on the element, besides that, you have no idea if the mash is stuck or not, until you start the sparge.
I guess we have learned to work the equipment in different ways, and that there are many ways to skin a cat.
It is fair to say that the equipment can be used in this way, if you can find the sweet spot. The fact is though that this is not how the equipment was designed to be used. With the right crush there will be no burnt wort during the mash as long as you scrape the bottom as GF advise during the boil several times. If the mash was stuck then it would cause constant over flow, a stuck sparge is something different in fact. It is actually easier to use a GF the intended way, though I can understand that now you have made it work this way then there is little need to change.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Perhaps thaifoodtakeaway is using the Brewzilla instead of the Grainfather. I am wondering if this may be a design or design consideration difference between the Grainfather and the Brewzilla. In the instructions for the Brewzilla, it is stated that the valve at the female camlock fitting may be used to control recirculation mash flow and I too have thus far had the impression that the recirculation flow rate should be adjusted so as not to utilize the overflow tube. I have brewed 28 5.25 gallon all-grain batches using this method (controlling the recirc rate with the ball valve) with my Brewzilla since March of this year (2021) and I have been using this method with success, although my average brew efficiency for these batches is currently just under 80% (79.92%) and not the 84% stated by thaifoodtakeaway. I am curious if you have had any interaction with Kegland regarding the use of this valve in the Brewzilla and if you would minid sharing their thought on this. Opening that valve up would indeed make an already enjoyable and easy task yet easier. Thank you from the USA for all of your very instructional and informative videos! These are pure gold!
the subtle flavors that my shitty tongue cant taste anyway hahhaha
Sorry for some reason your comment was put in a spam bin. Well we all taste things differently :)