Welding with 7014 rods
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- In this episode we we tackle welding with 7014 with mixed results.
For more info on the 7018 vs 7014 storage requirements
• Must watch before weld...
0:00:00 intro
0:01:33 7014 vs 7024
0:05:40 let’s weld
0:10:41 overview
0:12:58 vertical up
0:28:43 lap weld
The trick with rutile electrodes is to get a longer arc length, just to spread out the droplets of molten metal in there better . A longer arc length also helps to get the slag out of the way and helps avoid slag inclusions . Some colleagues like to weave these but i personally like to do stringers with slightly oscillation left and right on vertical up . And another good tip is to get yourself a good brand like : esab, lincoln electric, oerlikon, and böhler . You will immediately see better results . Have a nice day
I really like these because they are (for my nonpro welding anyway) clean and do a great bond if you find the right settings. I use for many different kinds of structural items up to 1/4 inch. So easy to run and restrike. I use 7018 on "safety items" like trailers. AND YOU ARE RIGHT, brand seems makes a big difference on these -- I use Blue Demon E7018 now and quite happy with that.
Hobart is a good brand
I love these blue demon 7014s, but I don’t think they are considered a rutile electrode. Generally rutile electrodes are 6013.
@@G5Hohn 7014 are rutile like 6013 . Difference in chemical composition in the flux is that the 4 stands for iron powder titania , as the 3 stands for high titania potassium. The iron powder in 7014 gives it a higher deposition rate than the 6013
@@weldfox472 Thank you for the education!
7014 is my goto rod, DCEP on an inverter welder. Low splatter beautiful welds.
It does produce clean looking welds. It’s pretty similar to dual shield flux core.
Thanks for all the helpful info. I'm just a hobby welder and this has been gold for me.
Thanks for sticking around and watching my videos 😀. I will have lots of stuff coming up that should help you with projects. If you want to see something specific covered let me know.
I picked up these 7014/2.4 mm(3/32") rods for practice on my old AC machine - which only has fixed 50/70/95, and 120A current selections. I found it very hard to dial in this rod, but we will give these a new chance once I get my hands of my new Migatronic multiprocess machine. Keep the good stuff coming. Cheers.
this video is very helpful and informative to me. shows me how to analyze a weld and adjust parameters. makes me feel better that I am not the only one who sometimes (often?) encounters difficulty dialing things in. don't think I have ever tried 7014. thanks.
I will be doing a video soon on dialing in settings. Basically a easy to follow guide on how to read welds, and then adjust settings to get results. I had less than favorable results with 7014 which is why I bought a different brand and will be doing some more testing to eliminate possible reasons. I know I can run good beads with 6010 and 7018 uphil, so if it’s possible with 7014 I should see better results with practice and as many variables eliminated. You’re definitely not the only person that can have a hard time dialing things in lol.
i happen to have about 15lbs worth of super old and even rusted 7014 3/32 rods and when i was burning them yesterday they worked great, i was actually shocked.
i also have 7024 rods. i’ll make a comparison video and post it. great video by the way pretty informative!
I definitely like 7024 more than 7014, which is interesting because they should have a lot in common based on their flux. 7024 is my go to for smooth clean welds on flat non critical stuff 😀
7014 definitely requires a lot of skill to use.
very good demon you are very good instructor i am trying to start a hobby i have been through the cancer thing i am 80 years old . what wouldl be a good shop set up what would be agood welder to start up with that is not too much money. any help would be help .
The two best setups I think for beginners are the harbor freight titanium 125 (flux core), and the titanium 225 (stick welder). If you want to weld thinner material the titanium 125 is the better way to go. It’s much easier to weld thin material with flux core over stick. The titanium 125 with 2 spools of wire, some scrap metal, and welding gear should be 250-300$ total with coupons. That is very reasonable considering what you can do with it.
I learned on 6011 and haven’t run enough 7018 to like it. I hate 6013, can’t stand it, but I’ve taken a liking to 7014 for lightweight stuff. Can’t say I’ve tried it vertical or run any beads on plate, but I’ve found it easy to run.
I am with you on the 6013. If you ran enough of 7018 you would like it. I won’t lie, it took a while for me to really like it. A good stick welder with hot start and high open circuit voltage makes 7018 sweet to run. Otherwise it can be a real sticky bastard that doesn’t like to start. The 7014 I have made a nice looking lap weld, I bet it does run pretty decent for normal stuff. I am going to be picking up a different brand of 7014 to try in a part two just to see if it runs any different. Do you recall seeing the real grainy weld appearance with 7014?
Thank you very much for this video, Greg. I would have driven myself crazy trying to figure out what I was doing wrong and why I wasn't able to get a decent weld with a 7014 rod. As great a welder and teacher as you are if you had a few difficulties with it I'm sure that anything that I would do would look and be terrible. I guess that I'll probably only use them for practice, and or lap and flat welds just to use them up. Again, I thank you very much for this video and I'll be watching for your next one. P.S. The 7014 rods that I have are probably way older than the ones that you were using. 😊 God bless. 👍👍👍
I picked up some esab 7014 rods just to try to see if they weld different. I don’t have high hopes, I just don’t remember 7014 having a super grainy appearance. For any flat weld I much rather use 7024 (provided the steel was over 3/16th thick) because it lays down very clean welds. After I test the new batch of 7024s I will be doing a video on 7024. I bet a lot of people will want to get some of those rods after the video 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Next time that I go into town I'll pick up some 7024 rods. Hopefully it'll be when I order the new Mig welder. 👍
@@johngersna3263 if you can’t find any let me know. When I am done with the 7024 video I can send you some snail mail to try out. Keep in mind the 1/8th rods tend to like 150 to 155 amps depending on steel thickness. They are kind of like running a 5/32 7018 for bead size. In the flat position they make awesome welds. Some people complain that the weld puddle is hard to see (just a big swirly pool) but when you get it dialed in you can make nice welds all day.
I remember messing around with Lincoln 7014; it has a weird brown flux coating... If my memory is good enough, I would have to say that it ran smoothly in vertical - I would have to try again, but it also ran downhill nicely...
You are right, they have a weird brown flux, I saw some at the local northern tool today. I ended up buying Esabs 7014 since it was cheaper and had a nice container lol. Esabs 7014 looks similar to the Hobart I used in the video. I am curious to see if it still has a odd grainy appearance.
Your typical 7018 that most home shop people buy can also be run on AC as well as DCEN or DCEP, although there are a couple of AC specific versions available. The reason some of us recommend 7014 instead of 7018 is that most folks don't have a rod oven and can't keep 7018 at the correct storage temperature to keep the moisture baked out, so aren't getting the low hydrogen benefit of 7018 anyway. I do have a rod oven, and I would generally rather use 7014 because I've never had a porosity issue with it, while I have occasionally had random porosity problems with 7018....most often with old rod that had not been stored properly.
One thing you didn't mention at all is what polarity you're using these on. I have run them on older transformer machines and used both AC and DCEP. I've also run them on a newer engine drive alternator(diodes for DC) machine on AC and DCEP. I don't recall running them on my DC only generator machine. I don't recall an excess of spatter unless I ran too long of an arc, and I don't recall the weird bubble appearance at all. My electrodes were fairly new though. My experience with 7014 vertical is that it requires a little less amperage and/or slightly more manipulation than 7018. Also, very tight arc and rod angle perpendicular to the parent metal, or very close to perpendicular. All of this on old machines without fancy adjustments. It is less forgiving than 7018, but once you get it right it looks just as good.
7024 is only for flat and horizontal welds. The first two(or three) digits in an electrode number for carbon steel are the tensile strength, 70,000 pounds in this case. The third(or fourth, depending on tensile strength) digit is the acceptable welding positions. A 1 is all position. The 2 in this case is flat and horizontal only. There are a couple of more, but they're uncommon and the average guy isn't likely to find or use them. The last digit identifies the type of flux coating. Every electrode manufacturer has this data available somewhere on their website, or in their literature.
That bead appearance is definitely interesting, kinda looks like porosity pinholes and the termination of the stringers had some from yankin out of the puddle to quick. It would be interesting to grind some of that weld and see if it is solid or if there actually is porosity. Like you said it may be from the rods being old
I am going to grind it down tomorrow and look. I don’t recall 7014 beads looking like what I saw, but I only ran them a little bit ever in the past. I am going to grab some different ones in a few days and see if they run different. Not many brands to pick from with 7014 lol.
I have a really important question. Are you Canadian or from Minnesota? And if uoure from canada do you know ave? Lol
Close on the accent, I am from Wisconsin, Milwaukee in particular. Close to Chicago so my accent has some oddball things tossed in it from there. I have been a fan of AVE, I haven’t watched a video by him in a long time (I will have to start once I have free time). He actually has a sawzall I sent him, back from when he was fairly unknown. Along with city of Milwaukee stickers I gave him on his tool box lol.
i happen to be from west bend area. not far at all
@@makingmistakeswithgregBorn at Milwaukee County General myself. Wauwatosa address when I was brought home.
I have seen a (professional lab) test of damp 7018 (I don't recallthe specific brand) and it basically has the similar strength and brittleness as the xxx0-xxx4 rods of similar alloy content.( A few hours at 400⁰ in a home oven will refresh it 90%+ for non safety critical welds, manufacturers just don't test every possible storage cycle combination for their products so they won't recommend it.)
But as for comparing rods, the ASW number is basically just info about how it will behave during welding, it really doesn't say too much about the final deposit properties.
There is reason the big brands produce several versions of each popular rod number, eg ESAB has about six+ 7018 rods and four 6010s. The actual as-welded strength and toughness (and sometimes after post-welding stress relieving treatments) for any rod is published by the manufacturer. Toughness is indicated partly by elongation at break and partly by the charpy v-notch impact test (at various temperatures, be sure its apples to apples)
I tend to oven dry all types of rods (at lower temps like 300⁰) during my humid season.
Thanks for posting the good info 😀. Esab and Lincoln both have a ton of rods all classified as the same 6010 or 7018, but they run slightly different (and meet different criteria like you said). I haven’t ran too many different 7018s from esab, but their 6010s run significantly different from one another. I need to do a video trying a bunch of different rods of the same classification from the same manufacture.
On almost every rod other than 308 I run straight in or 5 degrees. I’ve never run 7014 uphill tho. I’ve used it a few times on galvanized. Typically if I can get 7016 on a job I’ll use that where I can’t grind the hot dipped gal before hand. When I’m in that situation the majority of the time I end up runnin a down hill to burn it out then uphill over it. I’m thinking those rods may be too old or compromised. I’ve never had a 7014 dig that much or leave that much spatter. Maybe arc force needs to be turned down? Maybe a looser ( more stepped) weave? I’m gonna have to pick some 7014 up and give it a shot
I am going to grab some esab 7014s to try in a few days. The arc force was set for 7018 specs (30%). I even ran some with my Amazon special welder without any change. I am thinking there may be something wrong with the rods but I will know for sure soon lol.
Hi Greg, one of my viewers heard me complain about my rods sticking and having a hard time getting an arc to start. He emailed me saying Hobart 7014 was formulated for easy starting. Wondering if you find this true and your opinion. I believe my problem was having the inductance set mid-way.
7014 is a easy to start rod generally speaking. It’s not quite as easy as 6013 but it has far less of a issue (for me) for flux to run ahead of the rod. Surprisingly enough many 7014s out there have a “easy strike” rod tip, basically a graphite tip that makes arc starts far easier, not that 7014 was hard to begin with. I have also found that the welder used makes a huge difference too. A welder with 60-70v open circuit voltage will be much easier to start a rod than one with 30-40. Oddly enough people who learn on old transformer machines often have a much easier time with starts over many modern stick welders. At 70-80v open circuit a stiff breeze with a close arc gap will light the rod lol.
Never did any stick welding been playing with the mig side of my new welder, I have a 120 volt 130 amp welder. What rod would you recommend me to start off with to stick weld?
So to start off learning stick 6013 will be a good place to be. It’s very easy to start, it runs a ok bead, and will be far less frustrating to learn on than many others. 6011 is also a good rod to learn on but it takes more skill to run than 6013. Your welder may or may not run 6010 so stay away from that rod unless you know your machine will.
Realistically I would pickup a 5 or 20lb box of 6013 rods 3/32 in diameter and practice steel. By time you burn up all of those rods you’ll be doing pretty good 😀
Thank you Greg, will give this a try, your the best.
change your rod angle. you keep pushing up... raise your hand higher so you are dragging up. Also try straight in. You'll find you loose the roughness.
7014 i find the easiest rod to use and looks better then most..all the qell drillers down here use it for their caseing on holes
my guess is like 6013 these really shine on AC......I know, I know, most guys think AC is obsolete but you will have less overpenetration and some cleaning action as well. This to me seems like the inverse of 7018, yeah it says on the box that you can run 7018 on AC but yeah riiiiight.
Yeah 7018s are really hit or miss on Ac, really depends on the machine. In part two of 7014 I am going to try running them on AC and a different brand to see if I can improve the results. I have a feeling there is a issue with the rods I ran and that was contributing. They kind of ran like 6011 with a aggressive arc (especially uphill, they chewed the plate out bad). It will be interesting to see what happens
@@makingmistakeswithgregon the small low OCV AC buzz boxes, 7018 is a no go. However, if you run them on an industrial sized AC machine, they run fine! I ran them on one of those big Lincoln Idealarc machines (the one with the curved top and crank wheel on the front) in high school shop in the mid 70’s and they worked great. A few years later I bought a Lincoln AC225 buzz box, and the 7018’s were useless on it.
7024 flat / horizontal only
Run 7014 and 6013 down hill I’ve found they run terribly up hill 7018 runs great uphill but that’s the only way to run them vertical
That’s one thing I never did was run that 7014 downhill. I know I like the way 6011 runs down, I will have to give it a shot with 7014 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg the one thing that I would recommend with the 7014 so that the bead will kind of flatten out is using a slight stitching motion your right 6011 runs great downhill