LOL loved this. I'm vindicated! I've tried to explain these facts to fellow paddlers and they just call me a poor paddler. 30 years of solo canoeing has taught me otherwise. This is the best video on paddles I've seen Thank you!!! I look forward to seeing more of your work as time allows.
Finally - the BEST video demonstration of the correct way to choose the correct paddle for the kind of canoeing I will be doing. Thank you. My second paddle would likely be a bent shaft paddle.
I recently made a paddle rack like yours. I've had racks made where the blades were flat against the wall and had multiple paddles in one slot. That ended up being a pain when I needed the paddle in the back and a bunch fell off the rack and everywhere. I recently built a new storage building to keep some of my canoes in and so a new paddle rack is in order. I know it seems like a trivial thing, but it really works good. I can grab any paddle I want with no hassle. I wish I woulda thought of it. Thanks.😊👍
As a kayaker we have full carbon fibre paddles. They are way better than anything made out of other materials. I wonder if canoeists have that option? Good video. Stay warm!
Hey Kevin: Really useful information, well explained & demonstrated. After viewing I went & checked out my paddles & holly smokes that arms square when the paddle is above my head really applies. Thanks Brian 79
This video help a lot. Just got first canoe and wounder about paddels Just got a cheep one off amazon to get me going. Thanks got few of your books and like all your vids
Great video Kevin. We all find our personal paddle preferences. My preference is that my wife chooses a paddle that I like :) We always carry 3 paddles on our trips. On one trip, we dumped in the rapids and I lost my paddle (shame on me). I had to suffer with the shallow water 3rd the rest of the trips as my wife's primo ottawa style was too short for me. So now, we both carry the same paddle length because as she often reminds me, I have a habit of losing my paddle....K
kgdblade We always carried a spare paddle as well, just in case! Then there was the time a fellow paddler told us a story about how a Porcupine, I think it could just as well have been a Beaver, chewed through the throated portion of his paddle one night.
Excellent insight, I always wondered how to properly match the length. Without getting carried away I guess different canoes and also seating arrangements factor the length as well. Awesome 👍
That’s just perfect. For us who are just beginning we need simple clear dimensions and explanation why length and blade style matters. I’m making a kayak paddle. Because the regular white water kayak is so much narrower than my fishing kayak. I studied the paddle I got with the kayak. It of course was too short to keep the blade in the water and I had to lean side to side because my seat is 3” above the water line. Your explanation is very well done. I learned that the hard way. Now my factory paddle is 8’ long and the wood one I’m making has longer narrower blades and is 8’ 3” long. Fit the Vessle and the body using it .
Awesome video. Been renting paddles for my portage trips and they were the first ones you mentioned. Glad to have ordered my otter tail paddle and excited to try it out this summer for my week long trips
Am expecting my Clipper/Scout/ultra light any day now from Vicki in the Courtenay Shop. Ken CRAMB Campbell river. Will have to send Lynn a note for a Hat…..lol
What model Ray K paddle was that? That looked even longer than a Ray Special. Also, what was the paddle with the voyageur handle. That blade seemed like it would be really good on the lake. Thanks!
Awesome video keep up the good work Question: I play Ice Hockey for South Africa, ill be stealing one of my goalies sticks for this project haha... Seeing as you are Canadian, have you tried making a paddle from an old Goalie twig eh...?
The bent shaft paddle is much more efficient. Carbon fiber bent shafts are superior in efficiency and strength. 100% of canoe racers use them and that's because canoe racing is all about efficiency and precise control. Using a straight shaft canoe paddle at this point is a bit like driving a model T. You may enjoy the nostalgia but you're giving up a lot for that illusion. The one exception to the bent shaft may be for extensive whitewater use. Like wood paddles, there are cheaper and better versions. If you paddle a lot buy a good one. LeVas, Zone, Fisk, ZRE, etc. You won't regret it.
Kevin, Thank you for sharing your experience through the videos. Would you use the beaver tail paddle in more shallow creeks? It would seem that the "crap" paddle would be better in the instance that the water is shallow since surface water is really all there is. When I go on my BWCA trip in a couple of weeks, I was thinking of asking the outfitter if he had a beaver tail that I could use and a wider paddle for the shallow areas as the backup paddle. I have tried the bent shaft paddles on a couple of trips. I will stick with the straight shaft design. I would appreciate your thoughts.
If it's an all creek paddle route then...maybe the crap paddle. But overall, the beaver tail is what i would bring. That's not to say that the perfect blade - but its what I would bring.
So I have watched this several times now. And I pick up different things. So if I am solo paddling, I should have a shorter and correct length paddle. I like to shift between a bent and a beaver tail. When I bought my beaver tail from the only USA place I could find, the only ottertail they had was 2 inches shorter. If I would have listened to that detail, I would have brought it! Luckily, most manufacturers make their longer paddles 2 inches too short for me, and until this year, that's what I have happily used.
Can you recommend a quality inexpensive good solo paddle if you could choose one for everything and have one of those plastic paddles for back up what would it be? This question is for anyone who may have a good idea.
@@TheHappyCamper thank you very much I’m in ozark Arkansas I watch all your videos your great! Thank you for all you do for canoe Enthusiast on all levels. Charles Dillon
Hi Kevin! Thanks for this video. Having always heard the ‘’measure to nose’ method this videos really helpful and insightful. I canoe solo a lot when I go fishing. Normally I use a 60” paddle but when trolling along for fishing I like to sit on the middle seat of my dreaded RamX. Where I’m sitting in middle and at the widest point of the canoe I feel like its harder to get good strokes and would like an otter tail paddle specifically for that situation. Would I be wise to go a little longer in the shaft, say 63” rather than 60”?
Nicely presented Kevin and great to see someone with practical experience challenging the odd sizing paddle advice. Just noticed the Subaru in the background, have you traded the Forester for an Outback? A perfect paddling wagon if you ask me with masses of practical space.
Yes, it was time for an upgrade. My Forester did have more overall space, especially height wise. But I got a great deal on the Outback. It was a demo. So I went with that instead. I love it so far.
Just bought a paddle and was told to use the toe to nose method. Ugh. My paddle looks like a pizza peel compared to those beaver tail things. I have a lot to learn!
Paddle length is all about what eels right to you, and the type of water you are paddling in. I like my 64 inchers,,, but my 60 inch paddles,,, same pizza oven wooden spatula shape,, are much easier to paddle. I DO use the 64 and even 67 inch paddles in big white water. The water is some times a long , long way away. Air strokes suck. Beaver tails are slender and pure D pleasure on a lake and still water,,,, and those,, I like the shaft length the same as my 60 inch pizza oven paddles,,, but the long slender blade in the water is 50% longer than the 19 or 20 inch length of the squarish paddles.. If you are in a river of shallow depth,, short square.. Lake? long slender. White water,, long enough to reach the water. Now,,, have I thoroughly confused you? All comes down to what feels really nice in your hands. I like,,,,, a flexible wooden paddle. I like it when the paddle talks to me,, tells me what currents are down there.. Just feels nice to me. because,, if there is a tiny pleasure in each stroke,, a half a million stokes in 1300 miles and 3 months,,, just makes you want to do it all again. Use floor to chin,, Bending Branches Arrow paddle 100 dollars and worth every penny.
Awesome! Do you ever solo with a kayak paddle? I am getting ready to purchase an Old Town Discovery 119 and I have my paddles from my Old Town Guide 147, but was thinking of getting a double to take along with the new solo canoe. Any thoughts?
I have a few times while soloing big lake routes - but only where the seat is centred (or I'm centred rather than sitting in the bow seat backwards) and I'm situated lower, closer to the water. My Nova Craft Fox for example rather than my Nova Craft prospector. It makes sense for such a trip but overall I'm not a big user of a double blade. I prefer to one side, keeled over a bit, using the J stroke or Canadian J. But that's just my preference. I have said a running joke in the canoe world that "a double blade canoeists is one who doesn't know how to paddle" but it's done in jest. Double blading a canoe has been around for quite some time - but again, on big lakes, long trips, and not a lot of narrow creeks or river running.
@@TheHappyCamper Thanks! I don't want to turn loose of my traditional paddle. I do love the stroke and the mystique of it, but I was thinking the the double blade would be nice when paddling into the wind against the current. I do enjoy your video's and I thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@@inthewoodswithbigfoot3941 I think you should give it a try. Maybe rent or borrow a double blade paddle first. Werner Paddles are fantastic - but expensive.
@@inthewoodswithbigfoot3941 You didn't ask me, but... :D I also don't like to use the double blade in a canoe, but I take it with me for soloing if it looks like it might get windy. It's a big help when you need to solo fex. a 16 ft prospecteur against the wind. Just prepare yourself to get wet with the double paddle.
"Be sure it fits." I agree with that quote. But you and I like to travel different surfaces, rivers, fast and slow, white water, sand and rock bottoms (lotsa rocks) 18.5 to 20 foot expedition canoes. I think I am a bit older than you. (Read that as stiffer joints.) But I have always disagreed with the J-stroke. Mistake me not,, I have uses for a J-stroke,, just not all the time. The Gooney, IF properly done, is the stroke for 20 miles per day and 6 weeks. If you use the J-stroke for 500,000 strokes at 20 plus miles per day,, you will certainly need a wrist transplant. (At the end of the first day.) The thumb down has some advantages, but at the risk (wrist) of permanent incapacitation.. I like rivers. I like white water. A short wide blade with a sturdy tip. Not only is the paddle in often collision with the sand and rocks of the bottom, but also I use paddles to push off,, push forward. The tip must be very durabe. Like you, I like palm grips. Length. I use two, maybe three lengths, all similar wide blades. For me, 60 inch straight blade for switch paddling and general work. 64 inch for some rapids. 67 inch for Class 3, 4, and 5. The water can be a long way away. One item you failed to mention,, and I find essential. Flexibility of the shaft. I like, love, adore, a flexible and lively shaft. Load it up strong in a good pull, bend the shaft 3 to6 ", and then pause just a moment for it to unload. NOW,, if you use a J-stroke, just flip it over, thumb down, and the correction impetus is free, it has already been paid,. It is done. With no stress, no gunwale, no noise, I detest paddle to gunwale contact. The exception. In a river, with the craft snuggled against the bank,, for a pause,, to enter or exit,, I will plant the blade to the outside and keep a pressure against the side or gunnel to stabilize. even then, I hate the little dings that creates in the shaft of the paddle I use the Canadian in crosswinds,,, leaving the blade in the water is an excellent way to reduce leeway. I use the J-stroke on lakes and Sunday afternoons with a 'princess' sitting in a forward seat facing me,,,,, nice face, intelligent conversation,,, she doe not need to paddle a whit. On long trips it is always a Gooney after 2 , 3 , or 5 strokes. Paddle way behind,, absolutely in line of travel and just a rudder. And, of course, on long trips, switch paddle. 3 to 5 strokes per side and switch. WHICH,, gives you required practice at rapid switch in big white water. 'Cause cross arm paddling is just plain stupid. No kind words for that technique at all. Slow, hard to do,, and half the power available., And, always, always, a second paddle on deck, I have a velcro holder on the spray deck,, right at my right hand.
In defense of the cross strokes: Try them in a shorter (15'), narrower (80 cm or less), rockered canoe with low ends. It's faster than a switch, and (if done correctly) powerful enough to hit a tiny eddy you would otherwise miss. It works great in rock gardens, where precision and quick turns matter a lot. Slalom racers do both - they switch before a long offside line (making it an onside line) but use cross strokes in a well-balanced course, often a shallow natural rapid. If a quick draw blended into two short power strokes are all you need on your offside, why switch hands? If you just need to finish a turn and the water you need to hold onto is momentarily on the other side of the bow, just twist your torso a bit more to reach it. Of course it works the best in boats designed with cross strokes in mind, with unobtrusive bows, lots of tumblehome and a low silhouette. Here (CZE) we have a lot of small touring boats developed from old slalom C2s, with a little extra volume, and the cockpits enlarged and joined into one large hole. They're fun, lively, playful river runners with just enough room for basic camping gear and some beer. They're pretty exhausting on flat water, though - unless loaded so much that they're no fun in whitewater sections.
@@jirivorobel942 You, my friend, may have just nailed it,, hit a home run. I do a lot of long distance and long duration. I also love to do some white water. My basic boat,, (not so basic) is a 20' 3.5' wide Clipper McKenzie,,, but customized even from there,, additional layers in the layup,, thwart and seat positions, estimated 60 D type tie down points in the interior,, full spray deck with skirts, flotation,,,, Yeah,, she is big,, 3 inches of rocker,,, she floats so high and light,, I have claimed I can paddle across wet grass (or wet rocks as in Dinosaur National Monument,,,,,, not rock gardens,,, boulder gardens with a lawn sprinkler to wet the top) Soooooo I always switch paddle across the reservoirs,,, spend extra calories to do a J or Gooney,,, no. Lake Powell is 210 miles long.(110,000 calories?). Get her moving and 3 to 6 strokes to the side and switch. I am REALLY good at switching. A few hundred thousand switches will do that. And ALSO,,,, you just nailed it ! It is a big wide boat (for a big wide guy),, annndd I am nudging 70 69 at last count,,, twisting to paddle across 3 feet of boat,, would just about kill me in 20 minutes. You nailed it,,, the width of the boat. By the way,,,, except for extreme wind days,, do not ever hesitate to take a large canoe. You can take any gear you want. Carry water for 2 or 3 weeks. Food for 6 weeks,,, extra paddles, extra PFDs, full repair kits,,,, and still not load the boat to more than 40% of rated max load. It floats high and light,,
What about bent shaft paddles? The paddles I have made have an epoxy guard on the bottom of the blade to prevent damage. Should you oil or varnish your paddles?
If you have can find a leatherworker at a local shop or market they should be able to get you sorted with either a Skived ( thinned on one edge of the strap like a shingle so that it all lays flat) leather wrap or a stitched leather sleeve. good luck
Laughing,, it seems to be about 750 or more paddle strokes to the mile. Sometimes long and slow,,,, fewer strokes,, sometimes faster shorter plus correction strokes... It seems to work out to about 750 plus strokes to the mile. About 1 million strokes to 1200 miles.
@@TheHappyCamper so… i watched this last night with the subtitles on cuz I didn’t want to wake up the mrs., but one thing I missed last night that I just picked up watching with sound is the water at the surface versus the water below the surface. The poopy paddle with the wide blade moves a lot of water at the surface whereas the beaver tail paddle moves the same amount of water but below the surface. What makes the water below the surface easier to move than the water at the surface? Thanks again Kevin! Big fan of yours, Jason Eke and Xander👍🏼
My god man what have you done to Ray’s paddle I’m actually mad that you would let a Kettlewell pedal get to that condition that’s an original if you have such a connection with your paddles you won’t leave them in such disrepair if you do not like that paddle your extended Ottertail I will gladly take it off your hands and treat it the way it should be I lost mine in a fire and Ray has sold the company so I can no longer get at original
Piece of crap? Ha ha, come on, the Sugar Island style blade and its variations is the preferred shape for people who want to cover distance and a variety of waters on a serious canoe trip. To be sure, the paddle you show is a piece of crap, but that is to do with construction, not blade shape. The Kettlewells and the Nashwaaks are fine when you pull them out of their fleece paddle socks in front of the newbs, but for a two week trip in the boreal, with big lakes, rapids, shallow water, swamps, etc, bring a paddle that will get the job done. Why not show people some decent quality Sugar Island styles, like Grey Owl or Bending Branches instead of the old camp clunker?
LOL loved this. I'm vindicated! I've tried to explain these facts to fellow paddlers and they just call me a poor paddler. 30 years of solo canoeing has taught me otherwise. This is the best video on paddles I've seen Thank you!!! I look forward to seeing more of your work as time allows.
Finally - the BEST video demonstration of the correct way to choose the correct paddle for the kind of canoeing I will be doing. Thank you. My second paddle would likely be a bent shaft paddle.
I recently made a paddle rack like yours. I've had racks made where the blades were flat against the wall and had multiple paddles in one slot. That ended up being a pain when I needed the paddle in the back and a bunch fell off the rack and everywhere. I recently built a new storage building to keep some of my canoes in and so a new paddle rack is in order. I know it seems like a trivial thing, but it really works good. I can grab any paddle I want with no hassle. I wish I woulda thought of it. Thanks.😊👍
Finally!! Someone explains this is a way that makes sense. Appreciate it Kevin. 🚣
As a kayaker we have full carbon fibre paddles. They are way better than anything made out of other materials. I wonder if canoeists have that option? Good video. Stay warm!
Hey Kevin: Really useful information, well explained & demonstrated. After viewing I went & checked out my paddles & holly smokes that arms square when the paddle is above my head really applies. Thanks Brian 79
This video help a lot. Just got first canoe and wounder about paddels Just got a cheep one off amazon to get me going. Thanks got few of your books and like all your vids
Great video Kevin. We all find our personal paddle preferences. My preference is that my wife chooses a paddle that I like :) We always carry 3 paddles on our trips. On one trip, we dumped in the rapids and I lost my paddle (shame on me). I had to suffer with the shallow water 3rd the rest of the trips as my wife's primo ottawa style was too short for me. So now, we both carry the same paddle length because as she often reminds me, I have a habit of losing my paddle....K
Great info. Love it...and love your channel.
kgdblade
We always carried a spare paddle as well, just in case!
Then there was the time a fellow paddler told us a story about how a Porcupine, I think it could just as well have been a Beaver, chewed through the throated portion of his paddle one night.
Love this. Plus the Kettlewell paddle. Piece of crap paddles have their place. Stoked that you're teaching proper paddle.
Excellent insight, I always wondered how to properly match the length. Without getting carried away I guess different canoes and also seating arrangements factor the length as well. Awesome 👍
Hi Kevin, I am looking for a paddle for solo canoeing, really l I ked yor clear explanation of how to size the shaft. Thank you
Loved it! I just bought a new paddle... hope it fits.
wonderful explanation, many thanks from the UK.
I’ve never used a beaver/otter tail, can’t wait to try!!! I’ve actually gotten pretty good with the ‘crap paddle’ hopefully I see a difference.
You definitely will see a difference.
That’s just perfect. For us who are just beginning we need simple clear dimensions and explanation why length and blade style matters. I’m making a kayak paddle. Because the regular white water kayak is so much narrower than my fishing kayak. I studied the paddle I got with the kayak. It of course was too short to keep the blade in the water and I had to lean side to side because my seat is 3” above the water line. Your explanation is very well done. I learned that the hard way. Now my factory paddle is 8’ long and the wood one I’m making has longer narrower blades and is 8’ 3” long. Fit the Vessle and the body using it .
Great advice Kev. I have gotten that question a lot! What a diversity of paddles you have. I thought I had a few too many! 😃
LOL. I have a lot more inside the house...walls are full....I love my paddles
@@TheHappyCamper So do I, atb!
Awesome video. Been renting paddles for my portage trips and they were the first ones you mentioned. Glad to have ordered my otter tail paddle and excited to try it out this summer for my week long trips
Thank's! Alway's wondered how to choose a paddle, now I know 👍
Very good paddle advice . Especially for your solo canoer .
Thanks for the info - I love that Ray Kettlewell graphic, I wish I had bought 2 before he retired!
Me too
Kevin... great little info video. can be very useful for anyone who is new to the craft... Dennis, Canoehound Adventures
Am expecting my Clipper/Scout/ultra light any day now from Vicki in the Courtenay Shop. Ken CRAMB Campbell river. Will have to send Lynn a note for a Hat…..lol
Thanks for the video. I was looking for a video like this.
Great advice Kevin! How many people just went and checked out their paddles for size? LOL
What model Ray K paddle was that? That looked even longer than a Ray Special.
Also, what was the paddle with the voyageur handle. That blade seemed like it would be really good on the lake.
Thanks!
Thanks too for posting about caring for the paddle with teak oil or badger oil. Is the 'badger oil' proprietary to "Badger Paddles?"
It's their brand but works on anything.
Never knew--TFS!
Like the paddle rack ✔️
This is an absoluty amazing video
Thanks
Thank you .
Awesome video keep up the good work
Question:
I play Ice Hockey for South Africa, ill be stealing one of my goalies sticks for this project haha...
Seeing as you are Canadian, have you tried making a paddle from an old Goalie twig eh...?
Have you tried a bent shaft? I loved mine, it feels like a very powerful stroke
I have tried one. They are very effective. It's not my preference, however. I'd love to do a video on just that though.
The bent shaft paddle is much more efficient. Carbon fiber bent shafts are superior in efficiency and strength. 100% of canoe racers use them and that's because canoe racing is all about efficiency and precise control. Using a straight shaft canoe paddle at this point is a bit like driving a model T. You may enjoy the nostalgia but you're giving up a lot for that illusion. The one exception to the bent shaft may be for extensive whitewater use. Like wood paddles, there are cheaper and better versions. If you paddle a lot buy a good one. LeVas, Zone, Fisk, ZRE, etc. You won't regret it.
Kevin, Thank you for sharing your experience through the videos. Would you use the beaver tail paddle in more shallow creeks? It would seem that the "crap" paddle would be better in the instance that the water is shallow since surface water is really all there is. When I go on my BWCA trip in a couple of weeks, I was thinking of asking the outfitter if he had a beaver tail that I could use and a wider paddle for the shallow areas as the backup paddle. I have tried the bent shaft paddles on a couple of trips. I will stick with the straight shaft design. I would appreciate your thoughts.
If it's an all creek paddle route then...maybe the crap paddle. But overall, the beaver tail is what i would bring. That's not to say that the perfect blade - but its what I would bring.
So I have watched this several times now. And I pick up different things. So if I am solo paddling, I should have a shorter and correct length paddle. I like to shift between a bent and a beaver tail. When I bought my beaver tail from the only USA place I could find, the only ottertail they had was 2 inches shorter. If I would have listened to that detail, I would have brought it! Luckily, most manufacturers make their longer paddles 2 inches too short for me, and until this year, that's what I have happily used.
Can you recommend a quality inexpensive good solo paddle if you could choose one for everything and have one of those plastic paddles for back up what would it be? This question is for anyone who may have a good idea.
A Grey Owl or Badger Paddle - $85-$140 - beaver tail design.
@@TheHappyCamper thank you very much I’m in ozark Arkansas I watch all your videos your great! Thank you for all you do for canoe Enthusiast on all levels. Charles Dillon
Hi Kevin! Thanks for this video. Having always heard the ‘’measure to nose’ method this videos really helpful and insightful.
I canoe solo a lot when I go fishing. Normally I use a 60” paddle but when trolling along for fishing I like to sit on the middle seat of my dreaded RamX. Where I’m sitting in middle and at the widest point of the canoe I feel like its harder to get good strokes and would like an otter tail paddle specifically for that situation. Would I be wise to go a little longer in the shaft, say 63” rather than 60”?
That method works for me, especially while trolling.
@@TheHappyCamper thank you very much, happy paddling!
Thanks Kevin . . . as always!
Nicely presented Kevin and great to see someone with practical experience challenging the odd sizing paddle advice. Just noticed the Subaru in the background, have you traded the Forester for an Outback? A perfect paddling wagon if you ask me with masses of practical space.
Yes, it was time for an upgrade. My Forester did have more overall space, especially height wise. But I got a great deal on the Outback. It was a demo. So I went with that instead. I love it so far.
Piece of tool or piece of equipment ?
Great video!
Explained the way it should be so folks can understand the difference in paddles.
Nice RAY K. Paddle!!😍
Great advice, time for a new paddle.
Just bought a paddle and was told to use the toe to nose method. Ugh. My paddle looks like a pizza peel compared to those beaver tail things. I have a lot to learn!
Paddle length is all about what eels right to you, and the type of water you are paddling in. I like my 64 inchers,,, but my 60 inch paddles,,, same pizza oven wooden spatula shape,, are much easier to paddle. I DO use the 64 and even 67 inch paddles in big white water. The water is some times a long , long way away. Air strokes suck.
Beaver tails are slender and pure D pleasure on a lake and still water,,,, and those,, I like the shaft length the same as my 60 inch pizza oven paddles,,, but the long slender blade in the water is 50% longer than the 19 or 20 inch length of the squarish paddles.. If you are in a river of shallow depth,, short square.. Lake? long slender. White water,, long enough to reach the water. Now,,, have I thoroughly confused you? All comes down to what feels really nice in your hands. I like,,,,, a flexible wooden paddle. I like it when the paddle talks to me,, tells me what currents are down there.. Just feels nice to me. because,, if there is a tiny pleasure in each stroke,, a half a million stokes in 1300 miles and 3 months,,, just makes you want to do it all again. Use floor to chin,, Bending Branches Arrow paddle 100 dollars and worth every penny.
Awesome! Do you ever solo with a kayak paddle? I am getting ready to purchase an Old Town Discovery 119 and I have my paddles from my Old Town Guide 147, but was thinking of getting a double to take along with the new solo canoe. Any thoughts?
I have a few times while soloing big lake routes - but only where the seat is centred (or I'm centred rather than sitting in the bow seat backwards) and I'm situated lower, closer to the water. My Nova Craft Fox for example rather than my Nova Craft prospector. It makes sense for such a trip but overall I'm not a big user of a double blade. I prefer to one side, keeled over a bit, using the J stroke or Canadian J. But that's just my preference. I have said a running joke in the canoe world that "a double blade canoeists is one who doesn't know how to paddle" but it's done in jest. Double blading a canoe has been around for quite some time - but again, on big lakes, long trips, and not a lot of narrow creeks or river running.
@@TheHappyCamper Thanks! I don't want to turn loose of my traditional paddle. I do love the stroke and the mystique of it, but I was thinking the the double blade would be nice when paddling into the wind against the current. I do enjoy your video's and I thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@@inthewoodswithbigfoot3941 I think you should give it a try. Maybe rent or borrow a double blade paddle first. Werner Paddles are fantastic - but expensive.
@@inthewoodswithbigfoot3941 You didn't ask me, but... :D I also don't like to use the double blade in a canoe, but I take it with me for soloing if it looks like it might get windy. It's a big help when you need to solo fex. a 16 ft prospecteur against the wind. Just prepare yourself to get wet with the double paddle.
@@VK-vm4xe Very good point.
Great info, thanks
"Be sure it fits." I agree with that quote. But you and I like to travel different surfaces, rivers, fast and slow, white water, sand and rock bottoms (lotsa rocks) 18.5 to 20 foot expedition canoes. I think I am a bit older than you. (Read that as stiffer joints.) But I have always disagreed with the J-stroke. Mistake me not,, I have uses for a J-stroke,, just not all the time. The Gooney, IF properly done, is the stroke for 20 miles per day and 6 weeks. If you use the J-stroke for 500,000 strokes at 20 plus miles per day,, you will certainly need a wrist transplant. (At the end of the first day.) The thumb down has some advantages, but at the risk (wrist) of permanent incapacitation..
I like rivers. I like white water. A short wide blade with a sturdy tip. Not only is the paddle in often collision with the sand and rocks of the bottom, but also I use paddles to push off,, push forward. The tip must be very durabe. Like you, I like palm grips.
Length. I use two, maybe three lengths, all similar wide blades. For me, 60 inch straight blade for switch paddling and general work. 64 inch for some rapids. 67 inch for Class 3, 4, and 5. The water can be a long way away.
One item you failed to mention,, and I find essential. Flexibility of the shaft. I like, love, adore, a flexible and lively shaft. Load it up strong in a good pull, bend the shaft 3 to6 ", and then pause just a moment for it to unload. NOW,, if you use a J-stroke, just flip it over, thumb down, and the correction impetus is free, it has already been paid,. It is done. With no stress, no gunwale, no noise, I detest paddle to gunwale contact. The exception. In a river, with the craft snuggled against the bank,, for a pause,, to enter or exit,, I will plant the blade to the outside and keep a pressure against the side or gunnel to stabilize. even then, I hate the little dings that creates in the shaft of the paddle
I use the Canadian in crosswinds,,, leaving the blade in the water is an excellent way to reduce leeway. I use the J-stroke on lakes and Sunday afternoons with a 'princess' sitting in a forward seat facing me,,,,, nice face, intelligent conversation,,, she doe not need to paddle a whit. On long trips it is always a Gooney after 2 , 3 , or 5 strokes. Paddle way behind,, absolutely in line of travel and just a rudder. And, of course, on long trips, switch paddle. 3 to 5 strokes per side and switch. WHICH,, gives you required practice at rapid switch in big white water. 'Cause cross arm paddling is just plain stupid. No kind words for that technique at all. Slow, hard to do,, and half the power available.,
And, always, always, a second paddle on deck, I have a velcro holder on the spray deck,, right at my right hand.
In defense of the cross strokes: Try them in a shorter (15'), narrower (80 cm or less), rockered canoe with low ends. It's faster than a switch, and (if done correctly) powerful enough to hit a tiny eddy you would otherwise miss. It works great in rock gardens, where precision and quick turns matter a lot. Slalom racers do both - they switch before a long offside line (making it an onside line) but use cross strokes in a well-balanced course, often a shallow natural rapid. If a quick draw blended into two short power strokes are all you need on your offside, why switch hands? If you just need to finish a turn and the water you need to hold onto is momentarily on the other side of the bow, just twist your torso a bit more to reach it.
Of course it works the best in boats designed with cross strokes in mind, with unobtrusive bows, lots of tumblehome and a low silhouette. Here (CZE) we have a lot of small touring boats developed from old slalom C2s, with a little extra volume, and the cockpits enlarged and joined into one large hole. They're fun, lively, playful river runners with just enough room for basic camping gear and some beer. They're pretty exhausting on flat water, though - unless loaded so much that they're no fun in whitewater sections.
@@jirivorobel942 You, my friend, may have just nailed it,, hit a home run. I do a lot of long distance and long duration. I also love to do some white water. My basic boat,, (not so basic) is a 20' 3.5' wide Clipper McKenzie,,, but customized even from there,, additional layers in the layup,, thwart and seat positions, estimated 60 D type tie down points in the interior,, full spray deck with skirts, flotation,,,, Yeah,, she is big,, 3 inches of rocker,,, she floats so high and light,, I have claimed I can paddle across wet grass (or wet rocks as in Dinosaur National Monument,,,,,, not rock gardens,,, boulder gardens with a lawn sprinkler to wet the top)
Soooooo I always switch paddle across the reservoirs,,, spend extra calories to do a J or Gooney,,, no. Lake Powell is 210 miles long.(110,000 calories?). Get her moving and 3 to 6 strokes to the side and switch. I am REALLY good at switching. A few hundred thousand switches will do that. And ALSO,,,, you just nailed it ! It is a big wide boat (for a big wide guy),, annndd I am nudging 70 69 at last count,,, twisting to paddle across 3 feet of boat,, would just about kill me in 20 minutes. You nailed it,,, the width of the boat.
By the way,,,, except for extreme wind days,, do not ever hesitate to take a large canoe. You can take any gear you want. Carry water for 2 or 3 weeks. Food for 6 weeks,,, extra paddles, extra PFDs, full repair kits,,,, and still not load the boat to more than 40% of rated max load. It floats high and light,,
Hey Kevin, great video!! Who made your Canadian flag paddle? I’d love to get one of those.
Badger Paddles
I’m happy to see that someone with your level of paddling experience made a specific video about this.
Great video. Thank you!
What about bent shaft paddles? The paddles I have made have an epoxy guard on the bottom of the blade to prevent damage. Should you oil or varnish your paddles?
Bent shaft would make a good video on its own. For oil vs varnish check this out ua-cam.com/video/WtEj50x_QQo/v-deo.html
Can you do a video on maintenance
It's on my mind fir sure. Soon to come. I do have this older one ua-cam.com/video/WtEj50x_QQo/v-deo.html
Where can the leather wraps be purchased? Or are they hand made? Thanks
If you have can find a leatherworker at a local shop or market they should be able to get you sorted with either a Skived ( thinned on one edge of the strap like a shingle so that it all lays flat) leather wrap or a stitched leather sleeve. good luck
Thanks! Just went down the rabbit hole of watching skiving leather videos. Will probably attempt to make a sleeve myself
@@johnr9956 let me know if you have trouble getting leather
Thank you!!
Laughing,, it seems to be about 750 or more paddle strokes to the mile. Sometimes long and slow,,,, fewer strokes,, sometimes faster shorter plus correction strokes... It seems to work out to about 750 plus strokes to the mile. About 1 million strokes to 1200 miles.
Thanks! Never knew.
Thanks,that makes sense!
Yoda has spoken words of wisdom.
Very helpful
Thanks
@@TheHappyCamper so… i watched this last night with the subtitles on cuz I didn’t want to wake up the mrs., but one thing I missed last night that I just picked up watching with sound is the water at the surface versus the water below the surface. The poopy paddle with the wide blade moves a lot of water at the surface whereas the beaver tail paddle moves the same amount of water but below the surface. What makes the water below the surface easier to move than the water at the surface? Thanks again Kevin! Big fan of yours, Jason Eke and Xander👍🏼
First thing I was ever taught about canoeing ..never ever sit in one on land
Sort of an unintentional endorsement of the Greenland paddle.
На хрена не понял, но хорошо объясняет, мне понравилось мне полезно
no
My god man what have you done to Ray’s paddle I’m actually mad that you would let a Kettlewell pedal get to that condition that’s an original if you have such a connection with your paddles you won’t leave them in such disrepair if you do not like that paddle your extended Ottertail I will gladly take it off your hands and treat it the way it should be
I lost mine in a fire and Ray has sold the company so I can no longer get at original
Piece of crap? Ha ha, come on, the Sugar Island style blade and its variations is the preferred shape for people who want to cover distance and a variety of waters on a serious canoe trip. To be sure, the paddle you show is a piece of crap, but that is to do with construction, not blade shape. The Kettlewells and the Nashwaaks are fine when you pull them out of their fleece paddle socks in front of the newbs, but for a two week trip in the boreal, with big lakes, rapids, shallow water, swamps, etc, bring a paddle that will get the job done. Why not show people some decent quality Sugar Island styles, like Grey Owl or Bending Branches instead of the old camp clunker?
Very informative. Great job.
Thanks