I have a 2011 Lincoln MKT with 170k miles and its rear turbo started smoking like crazy. Got it replaced by a cheap mechanic for 1100 with a used genuine turbo, 100 miles later turbo blew. Then i realized they never replaced the feed line and it was leaking super bad, so I decided to park it in my garage and do the rear turbo with another used one from LKQ, took an insanely long time and a lot of work, but eventually I got the turbo out and a good used one installed. Then after started the dam front turbo blew immediately far worse than the rear turbo, now I got the front turbo replaced, doing it home and going used cost me about 6-700 in parts but the amount of work made it completely not worth it. I mainly did it for the experience since I am in my early 20s and have a nice set of tools after doing this job. NOT WORTH IT, but was an experience so its fine. Will sell car and get an even more unreliable 335.
I'm so sick of hearing of these late model vehicles only lasting 100,000 miles. Maybe the manufacturers deserve the hard times they're facing. So glad I still have my 96 Gran Sport with the 3800 in it. Being 62, I'll probably die before it does!
They’ve reverted back to the 70’s when cars rusted out bad and barely made to the junkyard with 100k…this is why you don’t buy anything newer than a 2013
My grandfather who is close to a century lost his driver license and kept his MKT in his garage for about 6 months, just sitting in it, listening to the radio etc… I felt bad for him, losing his independence, it was a big blow to him. He finally decided to sell it, I wanted it but complicated family matters and the person in charge of it sold it to a dealer for nothing… I was extremely pissed off for a long time but deep down I knew the turbos would be a pain sooner or later. People laugh at this vehicle because of its look but inside is where you are and it’s a really nice and confortable place to be, quite peppy as well considering the size.
Its amazing how badly well taken care of cars are treated in the estates of senior citizens. Some are sent directly to junkyards because they think its just some old car with no value.
Oil changes and letting the engine idle for a minute or two before shutting down to cool the turbo so the residual oil doesn’t coke up, burn the seals and kill the turbos. I turn off the engine stop/start system in mine when highway driving for sure! And… 5000 mile or 20% oil life oil changes with filter and high quality oil without fail! I recently traded my 2013 F150 with 120K. No oil consumption, no cam phaser rattle and the turbos still pushed another atmosphere with 88 octane or better fuel. Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance!
Agreed, I have an early Gen 2 Raptor, and it just needs regular maintenance to run without issues. I always change the oil every 5,000 miles, warm up the engine before driving, and let it idle for a minute or two after a drive. With over 60,000 miles, I’ve had zero mechanical issues and no cam problems so far.
I'd be willing to bet that, based on the filthy engine bay, the owner went to quick oil change places and used crappy oil. They most likely exceeded the recommended oil change intervals. Lots of failures and a lot of them fail because of lack of maintenance. I've seen many Ecoboost engines last well over 200k miles with proper maintenance.
I can back your claim up. Bought a used 2014 Ford escape 1.6L AWD with 65,000ish miles cash when i got out of the military. Bought a warranty from a Ford dealership near me. Best 4200$ ever spent. The previous owner barely did oil changes if that. Engine went at 80,000ish miles due to sludge oil in the motor. Payed extra for a new crate motor. Transmission went at 102,700 miles, most likely my fault by have the fluid serviced. Payed extra for a crate transmission. At 124,804 miles, transfer case was grinding and rear differential was not looking good. Warranty payed for a brand new transfer case and i bought a 14,000ish mile unit at a local scrap yard for 300$ that came from a flood 2015 Ford Escape. They installed it, with no warranty on the rear differential. 274,000 miles later, cars great. Many suspension components and wear and tear items have been replaced over the last 3 years. Over all been a great car since the major parts were replaced.
My 4.6 powered E250 has 442,700 plus miles on it and I expect many more miles to come. A heavy vehicle should ideally have a big enough engine to drive it without having turbos or supercharging to power it.
I've heard so many horror stories about the quick oil change places. In fairness, I don't know how statistically true they are, though. Regardless, I don't trust a place like that with any of my vehicles, especially when an oil change with high quality oil is such an easy DIY job. McOil Change Deluxe number 3 combo. No thanks.
Well that's a pretty illconceived comment about the dirty engine compartment being dirty is an indication of using cheap oil change places. You can tell by how dirty the engine compartment looks where they got their oil changes? AmaZING! Because dealerships... what? pressure wash the engine compartment when you get an oil change? (no, they don't) Because dealerships hand-wipe-down the engine compartment when you get an oil change? (no, they don't). No dealership cleans the engine compartment during an oil change. And there is NOTHING a dealership does when they change the oil that a "quick lube" place doesn't do. The dealership assigns oil changes to the lowest-paid shop employees... the shop grunts. They are not paid any more than the employees at a quick-lube place. The dealership doesn't use any different or better oil when you go in for an oil change than the quick lube place. Quick oil change places always use name-brand oil in my experience (out of 55 gallon drums for commonly used oils) and out of quart containers for less commonly used oils. I use a quick lube shop for oil changes on a European luxury car with a turbo. They get the proper Euro-spec 0W20 synthetic oil from Liqui-Moly because the US/Japan spec synthetic 0W-20 oil is not supposed to be used when the manufacturer specifies the Euro-spec version of 0W-20 synthetic. And the quick lube place told me that before even accepting the oil change job, I knew that Euro-spec synthetic was the required oil, and it gave me confidence that they would only put the right oil in the car (but I still watch to be sure). I've seen the quick lube place refuse to put the wrong oil in the car even if the owner asked for the wrong oil--owner wanted conventional oil, but the engine required synthetic. Like every business today, if do crappy work, it starts showing up in online reviews and people will begin staying away from, the business in droves.
I would say, if you like having a Lincoln MKT despite the fact that they have this failure-prone design, you price out a different one assuming you need to do this work. I can't imagine buying one. These cheap turbos are the bane of the industry.
@@OmniaNihil Would reqire considerable engineering effort to remove the turbos which includes the 'kicker' of having to 'reflash' the ECU so that it doesn't place the engine in 'limp home' mode, or worse won't allow it to start. Needless to say, such a bespoke ECU reflash would be expensive whilst the performance of the said car fitted with turboless engine would be 'slow' - which is an understatement.
RENAULT FUEGO!!!! Wow, Mr. Wizard, I see a Renault Fuego in the background. I sure hope you do a video on that one! Has to be super rare to find one running today! I owned a 1981 Renault 18i that was a 4 door variant on the same platform same engine, unless the Fuego had the turbo charged variant as an option. Mine was the worst car I ever had. After the 12/12000 mile warrenty went up: Transmission got stuck in reverse 3 times after the warranty expired. The machining on the transmission forks looked like they were welded by some backyard amateur, had to replace a warped head at 19K, cracking leather seats (the factory rep, stated it must have been a sick cow....no joke; refused to replace), 4 cracked distributor caps, temperature slide mechanism broke 3 times (again crappy engineering), my mechanic was appalled at when taking out the dash, instead of having consistent screw heads, nuts, to remove it, there was a variation of standard and philips heads to remove, plus 3 sizes of small nuts. Slipping clutch, squishy ride, squishy and squealing brakes, before I dumped it at 38K I wish I could remember all of the repairs that had to be done. It was the worst car in my opinon ever to be marketed by AMC dealerships. I still have a sales brochure to remind me of it. I really hope you do a video on this car, the problems it has, but also a review of the cabin features, and the undercarriage.
I had a 2010 Lincoln MKT ECOboost all wheel drive. I miss it so much. I had over 170,000 miles on mine with no mechanical issues or check engine lights. Mine was killed by a deer even though it drove over 600 miles back home. The insurance totaled it. MIne was white with those same wheels. When I checked the turbos on mine, I did not see coolant lines. I just saw oil lines going to them. One of the turbos barely started leaking at 170,000. I guess I was lucky but, I did not skip on oil changes and I switched to full synthetic oil as soon as I got the car.
I had a 2009 MKS with 3.7 non-turbo and was really great cat. Traded it in with 189k miles just because was tired of leaking sunroof which couldn't figure out. It ate wheel bearings did each wheel at least once and some twice but no other mechanical problems. It had original water pump, alternator, and everything else but wheel bearings and owned it from 20k miles. Really great car. I would recommend to anyone. Just get the 3.7 only....
That's really sad. If Ford had just put a naturally aspirated 5.0L V8 in there, it'd have had another 200,000 miles or more left in it (if the rust didn't get it first). I think we're going to see this sort of scenario become the norm with how many turbo'd small engines are being offered in things now. Reminds me of something Wizard said a few views back where we're past the golden age of long term reliability.
I am a Lincoln fan, but that pretty much ends with the 1979 models, with one exception. I have owned three. Two Mark IVs and a Mark V. The one exception is the Panther based Town Car. I have never owned one of those, I chose the Mercury Grand Marquis instead, because it shares a lot more parts with the Crown Vic. I wouldn't touch an EcoBoost engine with a 10 foot pole. That other one for $6K is also junk. Stay FAR away from ANY Ford with the EcoBoost engine. My 2006 Grand Marquis has 289,000 miles, Only engine related issues were a bad alternator, MAF sensor, and serpentine belt tensioner and idler pulley. That's it. Still has its original timing components, with no sign of can chain rattle. The existence of garbage like this is why it is now worth putting large amounts of money into older well made well designed vehicles to keep them going. There will never be any more well made or easy to fix vehicles, new vehicles are far worse than this pile of trash. And still getting worse by the year. Rust that bad usually means it has been driven on salted roads at some point. Apparently Kansas does use salt on I-70 in the winter. Avoid that highway in the winter.
I would ask the customer "How much do you like your car?" Honestly you could buy another car for the same amount of money, but it will probably have the same issue sooner or later. Might as well put the money in the car, and have fresh turbos. All that oil probably fouled the cat too.
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That's what I was thinking. the car he shows for sale for $4500 we didn't get the mileage. Could have had 150k miles or more. If the motor is not burned up, I'd say it's worth it to put $6k into it rather than buy a new one
Unless I was getting a discount on labor for replacing both turbos, I would bring it to an honest mechanic that would just replace the one turbo that was bad.
He was quoting $4-5K for the turbos. New cats would have been extra and also not cheap. This would be worth doing if you had the ability and the tools to do it yourself, and were in no kind of rush to get it back on the road. Garrett turbos, a cat delete, and a tune and it drives better than when it left the factory.
Yea, my 2010 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost blew both its turbos up and it was going to cost $5,000 in repairs and puked oil into the catalytic converters. It only had 70,000 miles on it before I traded it in for an F-150 with the 5.0L V8. The truck has been amazing. No issues over the last 2 years.
I have a Flex which is the Ford version. I think it looks much better than the MKT, which I've never cared for. The Lincoln does have a much nicer interior, though. I'll give it that.
@@davidtoups4684 Yeah the Lincoln version definitely has a nice interior but the exterior got hit with the ugly stick 😭 I always thought the Ford Flex version looked cool.
Time and time again Wizard proves that ICE engines are crap. But people complain about BEV batteries going bad instead. I guess at some point wizard needs to switch to historic car business or start working on BEVs.
So, correct me if I’m mistaken, but if both turbos on this vehicle have failed, rendering the vehicle almost worthless, why would the guy at the Ford dealership recommend only Ford original replacements when they’ve proven themselves to have an excessively high failure rate? Are the Ford replacements going to be any better? Is he just towing the company line or are the aftermarket replacements really going to be worse?
And the timing chain should be replaced especially on the Ecoboost applications. There’s a reason why police departments preferred the 3.7 and 3.5 V6 over the 3.5 EcoBoost. If it’s in an F150 or Expedition, that’s the only option that the police can buy because the speedometer has to be calibrated with a certificate. That’s why you see “certified calibration” on pursuit rated police cars. Since 2015, all Ford Expeditions uses the 3.5 EcoBoost V6 and it’s the only engine you can get. The F150 has more engine options like the 2.7 EcoBoost, 3.5 EcoBoost, 3.5 PowerBoost, and the 5.0 V8. The 3.3 V6 was discontinued in the 2023 model year F150 because they needed more 3.3 V6’s going into the Ford Explorers used exclusively by law enforcement. The Transit vans use a similar engine than the 3.3 and that’s the 3.5 liter V6.
@@atx-cvpi_99 in the expedition the 3.5 is lenght wise so that helps some. The 3.7 has the same little oil powered mechanical parts shifting things around in it as the 3.5 does. I use motor flush at oil change time and I use that stiction eliminator in there also. Just 8 ounces with the change. It's essential.
Seems like a common denominator is extended oil change intervals, on failed turbos, timing chains, catalytic converters, excessive carbon build up, failed lifters, you name it.
One thing I remember about the MKT was it was pushed on livery services right after the Town Car was discontinued. I too thought it was ugly and looked like a classless Hearse. I do love my Lincolns though. I used to own a 2014 MKZ that I loved. As much as I don’t exactly like the MkT, this is sad. It deserved better.
I think I'll just keep my 2011 Mercury Mariner with the 3.0L V6. Non turbo, runs great at 116,000 miles. A friend just had to replace a temp sensor for the turbo on his Escape. No after market available. Sensor was $1,100.
We have the same problems in Europe where manufacturers are putting the likes of turbocharged 1.2 litre petrol engines in large SUVs. The Ford Ecoboost engines are nicknamed 'ecoboom' in the UK for good reason.
Lol don't tell the Ford fanboys that. They seem to think the ecoboom is the best thing since sliced bread. Here in the US Ford uses plastic oil pans. Everything is becoming so cheaply made but cost a premium.
@jeepinintexas6215 I was one of those fanboys at one point until my SHO started living in the shop. Intake cam, cam phasers, PTU, HVAC blend door actuator, and EPAS all replaced at around 40k miles with religious oil changes. 20k miles later, I started getting that rattle again. Sold the car with just over 60k miles and never looked back.
I'm guessing the turbos? I know the rear is more common. I used to own a FWD 3.5 Ecoboost. I got rid of mine around 90k miles because I didn't want to end up with expensive issues. Maybe the next person had good luck, maybe not.
03 Grand Marquis here, 475,000 miles, still runs and drives like new on the original engine, transmission, axel, front suspension, even the original power windows. It has needed, from new, 1 lighting control module under recall, 1 intake manifold, 1 gear selector bulb, 1 water pump, 1 alternator, several sets of spark plugs and coil on plugs, it did need 1 alignment at 170,000 miles and the original fuel pump died at 429,000 miles. We did do the timing set at 212,000 miles, but it wasn't even needed at that time. In the family since new and got in 03 for $23,000 after all rebates. South in no salt, so that does help.
You beat me. 89 Grand Marquis, 427K, frame rotting out, had ubolts thru the floor with bid brake pad backing plates to hold the transmission mount frame in. 22 mpg highway, still passed tailpipe emissions. Think about it, I put maybe 4-5 Large into a car, including purchase price and put 300K miles on a car. Next was 97 Outback, that one was 8-9K and drove it 200K. Not totals, how far it lasted me.
That’s cause ford used the understressed 4.6 V8 in those cars. Bigger 4 bangers and lazy running V8s that rev lower just seem to last. Especially if your not running power adders on them
Can't believe there's a Renault Fuego in the background.A:- Who in hell would pay money to have one fixed and B:- Why isn't it just a pile of dust like all of the ones here in the UK were about 25 years back?
I'm a chauffeur and that's the kind of car we use. some of them are over 300k miles and are still running strong! Lincoln was still building them for fleets after Ford killed off all their cars
This car would make a crazy sleeper. 3.5L Ecoboost engines can make up to 700hp with proper upgrades. Larger Garrett turbos, high flow cats, 3.5 inch exhaust and proper tuning. It has more to do with how the car was taken care of and the parts the manufacturer used. I agree with someone else that proper cooling of the turbos after driving is a must. I have a 2002 Subaru WRX and one of the 1st mods I did was a turbo timer. It alows the car to idle after removing the key for a time you can set up to 10 minutes to alow the turbos to cool off. I got 172,000 miles on that engine.
A turbo timer is great for for turbos that don't have the center section water cooled... It would be great if they came up with something that circulated the coolant on these to compensate for the heat soak they're taking.
Your suspicious are correct, the engine oil wasn't changed in a timely manner. That doesn't mean the first version of the turbos weren't without fault. The 2010 through 2012 turbos were mounted directly to the engine and the engine heat also assisted in doing them in. The turbos on my 2010 with 160,000 miles had fine cracks that seeped oil, however they were still in perfect working order. Later versions have a bit of a neck to them, getting the turbos itself off the engine and solving the problem. My current MKT is about to roll 60,000 miles, so I still have a ways to go to see how well it lasts. Regardless, these were very fine cars and I would buy a 3rd if Lincoln still built them. But we do have the Aviator, now.
I had a 2010 Ecoboost….. I replace the rear turbo twice….. I sold it for $900 bucks. Loved it, until it didn’t love me back. My two favorite features were the rear seat flipped backwards for tailgate movie night and you can roll up and down all the windows with the remote.
I get so tiered of hearing "not worth fixing" and "cost more than its worth" n8ne of our volvos was "worth to fix" according to "mechanics. Took me 6 hours to fix the worst of them (turbo failure at 267xxx kms). Runs perfectly and optimized to 240hp. Not "worth it" my rear end. Also, mkt s are so ugly that is a service to humanity to junk them.
Well, the customer decided that for him it wasn’t worth it. That car will probably be bought at auction and shipped to Nigeria where it will have a new lease on life.
When your are paying $200/hour for labour it does not need much of a job to make it not economically viable. I also do my own repairs, I've had my car 12 years and the only jobs I paid for were tracking, tyres and a new windscreen.
And you might as well get a timing chain and water pump replacement as well. 100,000 miles is a great time to replace the timing chain and water pump along with the oil pump and exhaust manifolds as well. The power steering rack is also a known failure point on these cars as well. Don’t forget the catalytic converters as well. You can try cleaning the catalytic converters but it might not be worth it.
I feel bad when people have these cars that are in great condition all around and the interior, but then the motor is cooked and the car is basically garbage.
I’m so happy with my cammed 5.3 ecotech Silverado and 6.2 Yukon Denali (yes I deleted the stupid cylinder deactivation crap) I get insane mpg if I respect highway speeds and never worry about crazy turbo expenses. I just hope GM keeps their senses since all other (except for the coyote) have lost their senses when it comes to engines.
I once did a turbo delete on a Mazda 626. I made a plate to cover the turbo mounting spot on the manifold, braised the oil feed tube, capped the oil return, and installed a large bypass between the air flow meter and the throttle body. Worked great, albeit with far less power. Cheap, for sure.
Hey there is the huge factor of how well the customer did or did not maintain the vehicle. As you said you "could" by one but not know anything about the service history, driven hard excessive idle etc. You really shouldn't compare apples to oranges. Personally, I'm going with the turbo repair and anticipate the cats (likely sooner than later, agree) In short, my vote with today's prices is and has been repair over the cost of a new car.
I have a 2013 Passat with the 2.5L. No turbo. Almost 100k miles and it's been a great car and I haven't had any problems. Will use maybe a half quart of oil in 3000-4000 miles. My tailpipe is definitely sooty. Engine seems very healthy, I replaced spark plugs when I bought it, about 25k miles ago. Only use top tier detergent gas. Drive about 20 miles highway each way for work. So I don't know, but the tailpipe is sooty for sure. Interesting.
I have a 2011 Jetta with that same motor and transmission, currently has 224k miles on it. I've never seen evidence of it burning oil, this motor seems pretty easy on the oil overall. If you've not changed the coil packs yet I'd recommend changing them for Bosch red tops eventually.
They made a nonturbo option on these. Slower, but you're buying a Lincoln not a race car. The 3.5, with the exception of the asinine location of the water pump, is actually a really good engine. But turbocharging it vastly shortens the life.
The old saying ain't no replacement for displacement again proves true. Boosting small engines to pressures that require twice the maintenance just don't fit the North American driving style. I had a 1987 Nissan with the 2.4 non turbo 4 banger. I loved that truck. Me and my friend took that thing everywhere, got wood and took the fishing boat all sorts of places. Never were the first ones there but we always got there and back, listened to some good tunes and had great conversations. Too bad rust took that truck I miss those times where we just slowed down and be human.
I own 2 MKT's one 13 with 3.7 non turbo has 270ish k and one water pump replacement did my self around 230k and air intake sensor. Have a 2019 MKT with the 3.5 boost bought with 49k on it and purchased the extended warranty cause I know at some point the turbos are toast and it's 5k+. The 2k or so ya sped on the warranty is well worth it. Buy any passenger car with a turbo it's gonna be double the normal cost to fix, but with labor and parts these days seems almost everything is in that 3-5k range to fix.
About a month after I told the customer to sell his 2014 explorer, the front turbo lost the nut that keeps the impeller on which went to the rear turbo and locked it up so hard the exhaust impeller launched itself through the rear catalytic. Good times.
If there is oily sludge at the ends of the tailpipes, then 100% guaranteed the catalytic converters are toast. That's too bad. It's a pretty cool car, otherwise.
I had a 1993 Celica with a (I think it was) Garret turbo that lost a tiny piece of the intake impeller at about 112K miles. I spent thousands to rebuild the car with a brand new 3S-GTE short block. Bottom line: rebuild your turbos when everything is still working great and avoid the pain of junking the whole car. It also depends on whether you are a do it yourself mechanic or a person that takes cars to a professional, in which case, multiply your costs by 5 or more. The Hoovie way VS the Tavarish way.
After dealing with the EcoBoost in my 2014 Escape, I have just sworn off the complete engine line and went back to N/A engines again. Actually traded the '14 Escape on an '11 Toyota Rav4. What was even worse, the EcoBoost was less reliable than the 2.7tt I had in my old '04 Audi A6.
2.0 ecoboost is fairly decent in them. The 1.6, not so much. Those escapes are just plain overall garbage. Very lucky if you get 150k out of one of those without major mechanical failure such as a trans or engine. I just did an overhaul on one for my brother/niece. Put a low mileage used engine, rear differential, and the trans was replaced by the previous owner. It only made sense since I did the labor at no charge. Great driving little suvs, just mechanically garbage
@@mph5896 Ford changed the head gasket design for some of the 2.0 year Escape. I Saw Ford tech malukco on his channel have to replace an engine due to the poor head gasket design.
I remember Ford was having so many problems with their 3.5 V6s, ranging from Lincolns to Ford Police Interceptors, which didn't get solved until they moved on to the 3.7 Cyclone. What's crazy is Ford was still building the Panther cars in 2010, and they can run circles around those Fords with the 3.5s. I bought an ex-cop Crown Vic which I expected to find some major issues, but all I needed to do were oil changes, new tires, new brake pads, plus a new trunk actuator which took me less than 30 minutes to fix.
I have a 2013 Ford Edge with the 3.5 non-turbo engine. 150,000 miles runs great doesn’t use oil but I’m scared to death of the water pump. I change the oil every 5000 miles with full synthetic and flush the radiator every two years. I hope I will make at least 200,000 before it craters. I’m buying a used Toyota Highlander when the Ford goes.
@@TheTardis157 it depends i buy cars with this engines all the time and many times this engines reach 200,00 miles and still original water pumps, you cant really tell at how many miles the water pump will fail!!
just change the water pump and get it over with is like changing a timing belt every 100,00 miles almost the same cost, there are backyard shops who will charge you 800 dllrs labor plus parts, nothing different from a timing belt change, i done lots of this pumps its not that difficult, or wait till your explorer gives you signs like overheating and mix coolant with oil which is worse, if you done all those services you should be fine, i rather own a ford explorer than a toyota at any given day but just because i know this engine they last for a long time as long as you service them, change the water pump bro is definitely cheaper in the long run
I'm going to assume that your RX350 doesn't have turbochargers. Not an apples-apples comparison. This Lincoln would have lasted longer if it was naturally aspirated, like your Lexus
🎯 Or as were say in Europe, don't use a Shetland pony to pull a railroad wagon. Small engines naturally aspirated do wonders for 1 ton cars but you can't ask them to do what they are not designed to do.
Designed to be a "throwaway" engine/car. If it was designed for easier R&R, how much more would that have added to the cost of the car? If it added anything. Now this MKT is a parts car.
In July of this year, I told my mechanic I was going to kick the tires on a MKT. He practically pleaded with me to take a hard pass because of the turbo issues. I went to a nearby Honda dealership and bought a new Accord. I might have dodged a financial bullet there.
Seems weird for someone looking to buy a large Lincoln luxury crossover (used) to ultimately buy a Honda Accord instead (new) 😂 those two vehicles are just night and day different from eachother and likely wouldn't be cross-shopped by anyone.
@@Stressless2023 Spot on, my kid got T-boned so I gave her my Lexus. Needed an immediate everyday driver. She drove me to Honda where I informed my sales lady my intention to buy Lincoln but they just happened to be in the way. Poor thing actually pleaded with me not to go Lincoln. I negotiated a hardball price ($30.500). She actually drove me to the bank to get the cashiers check. No warranty, xtras or dealer add on’s. Drove it away with the pink on the way. I’m still getting a Lincoln at some time tho. Like the idea of a fresh car and zero miles.
@@hokie9910 Like I wrote, my daughter needed a car immediately after her accident. Please elaborate, do you consider the Lexus (I350- ‘18’) superior to the Lincoln? As for me, the bottom line trim level Accord is fine. No power seats, sunroof, seat warmers… etc. I’m in my 60’s so it’s all good.
@ I’m a Lexus guy, period. I don’t think there’s been a good Lincoln built in many years unfortunately. In the 80s-90s the Lincoln Town Car was a well built car that would go a very long time.
I have a 2010 MKT with 173k miles. I canr believe it's still running but its needing some work. Shes a runner though. Mines has every available option and that 3.5 Ecoboost flies. 0 to 60 in under 7 secs. A friend of mine had his turbos both replaced for 3500 at a shop. They had it for about 4 days. Big job. He said it was worth it because its still cheaper than a 800-1000 car note which is the going rate for new and used cars. He had this done almost two years ago.
Maybe I am wrong but I don't think the value of the car should determine the max repair bill. Sure, go buy another car for the same price as repairing, and then those turbos will fail too. Or, keep your car that you maintained well and know the history of; and it's got new turbos!
The problem is that it sounds like they haven’t maintained it well, an MKT with the turbo job done isn’t worth significantly more, and once you’re that deep into a car like this you’re setting yourself up to fall into a sunk-cost fallacy.
This is exactly why when I bought my transit 350 xl xt I got the 3.7 motor with the 4.10 LS rear. I read hundreds of pages on the 3.5 TT. Coming out of an MB sprinter, I want nothing more to do diesels or turbos ... On my sprinter it blew a turbo under warranty @96k. I traded it @ 430k miles on the same replacement turbo. Stiction eliminator with every oil change. There was a handful of stuff I had to do to keep that sprinter running, all focused on the turbo, fuel and DPF systems.
You are correct; the COST of a simple oil change is absurd, then the STUPIDITY of engine builds and its MORE money to maintain a gas car. Not for this writer, I drive an EV=near zero maintenance for this writer
@harriettanthony7352 you spent you absurd oil changes on the stupid EV. Huge cost difference reg vehicle doesn't even cost close as much total as an EV. Keep lying to yourself
Yep. This kinda crap is why we sold my wife's 2013 SHO. Replacing the friggin WATER PUMP is OVER $2200 in PARTS!! And I do ALL the work on our cars. I have my own lift. We switched to Panthers and Mark VIII's. Damn mod motors run FOREVER! The Mark VIII is a difficult car to keep running but I love them so it's worth it to me. But I wouldn't recommend them to anyone else. A panther, though.... that's a different story. You look at them sideways and they'll start back up like they feel guilty about causing you trouble.
What makes the Lincoln Mark VIII's difficult to keep running? I've had two 97 LSC's and regret selling them, one needed a trans rebuild but both had strong engines, considering buying another 97-98 LSC.
@Stressless2023 it's engine management, mostly... The kind of wiring and connectors they used back then get real brittle after they've been heat cycled a bazillion times... Half the connectors in my 95 are held together with zip ties... It's OBD1 so it's a pain to diagnose... The steering rack is going bad... the charging system is a constant headache... but, I'll never sell it. I love driving it. It's comfy as hell and reasonably quick. I call it my "racing couch"....
Guaranteed turbos for this engine can be bought for around $500-$600 and mechanics I've asked about em say they are exact replacement fit and work better than the oem. I know how to turn a wrench for many things. This is definitely be buying for cheap and repair. The rust he mentioned would be of a bigger concern and could be a deal breaker. Parts around 1500 total including new converter. Instead of junking, I'd buy it. for cheap. UP to a thousand bucks. and have new turbos instead of used on a used one for $6k.
2:05 very odd placement of the button to move the throttle and brake pedals.... Wonder why they went up towards the center screen, rather than near the cluster....
That was really nice inside. Minor body damage doesn't get worse. The rust is just starting and can be easily addressed. It starts and runs... Just needs two turbos, two cats, a repair facility, tools and skilled labour to get it running sweet again. Would Mr Wizard repair it if it was his car? Comparing the value of this car to an identical model seems fair but you don't really know what condition that car is in all round. Being able to do your own work is the only way to keep older cars in serviceable condition. That's as long as parts are still available. Do you get the feeling that "they" are trying to keep "us" down with debt by forcing full vehicle replacement of perfectly repairable vehicles on us?
No one is keeping anyone down. These conspiracies are getting way out of control. As he noted, you can buy another one without these issues for the same price or less than it cost to fix this one. Simply isn't worth it.
My wife’s grand parents just paid for the failed water pump and timing chain while they were in there. Otherwise the car is perfect and the leather smell is intoxicating. Great highway cruiser. That ecoboost MOVES OUT. An old person car has no business being that fast.
Yeah one of these with the 3.7L V6 is a much less expensive alternative - $1,500 to replace the internal water pump/timing chains as preventive maintenance somewhere around 150,000 miles usually and they're good to go.
They should have kept using the 5.4 L V8 engines in the Lincoln MKT’s. Those EcoBoost engines are trash. My 2011 Navigator has the 5.4 V8 motor and I’m at 231,000 miles. I got it at 160k. I take it to the dealer for every oil change and they do a multi point inspection every time and have only had to replace the battery.
Turbos really just hate running with dirty oil. I’ve seen original turbos on a 2.7 Audi v6 go over 250,000 miles and they were still perfectly healthy.
One issue is people are wanting very large cars with large amounts of power which in order to get something like that to meet CAFE standards, a small engine with several turbochargers is the unfortunate reality. I had a 1982 BMW 528e (E28) with the high efficiency gasoline powered 2.7 liter "eta" straight six. It did not have a tremendous amount of power, but had great torque with a low revving engine. It had a redline of 4500 rpm and got about 30-35 mpg. I got 345,000 miles of that car before it was starting to nickle and dime to death (I had bought it with 105,000 miles on it).
one of the issues is that people don't let the turbos spool down, they just shut the engine down and that starves the turbo oil as the engine feeds the turbo with oil, I always let my car idle for a few minutes when I finish driving anywhere
I do that with my 2018 Flex. I don't let it idle quite as long a you do, but I never just shut it off. I've also used full-synthetic oil since it was new.
Thanks Wizard! Great video as always and very informative. Long shot of you answering, but I've got an 07' Lexus ES350 with a mystery clunk. We've replaced the lower control arms in front which helped all but a tiny clunk. All other parts appear fine. Only happening when the wheel is fully turned left, but almost sounds like its coming from the rear of the car. (We checked the trunk Lol). We're leaning towards the rear struts, but just wondering if you're able to shine some light?
That one not that bad to work on. I fixed a couple for people and even did upgraded one friend with the good garrett turbo and valve upgrade. To be honest for 5k they go for nowadays I may get another one so can turn it into a sleeper. Those 3.5 can push 600hp to 700hp if done right. The problem is would also have to rip the stock exhaust and catalytic converter and go high flow, so would definitely end up dumping about few thousands into it in just parts. For a technician would be good price to get a nice SUV if you want a sleeper and willing go do some upgrades to it. For general public I don't recommend as all of them by now will need new turbo charges and feed line as well as catalytic converter cleaned, or replaced.
They're not overpriced. You can't run a shop doing free repairs, and can't warranty Amazon turbos. If you do the work yourself and you're replacing them every 100000 miles with Amazon turbos, go right ahead
Hey Wizard thank you for all the honest car knowledge you offer...really enjoy the show...question... Is there a car manufacturer that incorporates a reliable CVT transmission...thanks in advance for any info.
I had a 2011 SHO with the 3.5L Ecoboost that I loved till it started falling apart at 100k. It had the opposite problem from this vehicle. The engine was strong but everything else was falling apart
I would have fixed it. What other vehicle you doing to get for 3-5K that it will cost to fix this? The mistake was buying an ecoboost engine to begin with. Might as well ride it out now.
Toyota, Lexus, Honda or an Acura with normally aspirated engines will give you 300K miles, easy, with minimum maintenance. In fact if you buy anything NA you are way better off than turbo'd anything.
I always liked the way these look. And I came close to pulling the trigger on one! Hopefully this is a rare case and not indicative of the entirety of this model!
Just indicative of the 3.5. All the other engines are solid. If they are kept up on maintenance, they can last a long time like any other car. It's just that repairs make it mechanically totalled even if spending that amount of money will mean the car is good for another 100k with some other parts wearing out. Still going to cost less than a few months of a new car payment which average $1000 today...
Oil changes were always important. But nowadays, they are critical. Naturally aspirated engines have small oil drainback passages, allowing for sludge buildup with infrequent oil changes. But the turbos are critical. They heat the oil to extremes. They pressurize the cylinders, increasing load on the rings and increasing soot in the oil. CHANGE THE OIL!!!
Most use junk turbo chargers with underpowered engine. Plus even with good performance parts, they still require upgrades and maintenance, not something I would recommend for the general public. Better to go with a natural aspiration engine, will last way longer.
as a former mechanic I'm a little surprised the owner doesn't want to make the repairs. A new similar vehicle is very big money. A good used replacement vehicle will cost plenty and may have a bunch of problems. Its resale value is not relevant if it will go another 75k when repaired. What about aftermarket or used cats? What am I not understanding? Having said that I do feel that Fords are generally trash.
I honestly always liked the design of this generation MKT. It looks like a modern day Hearse, but black or other darker colors are the best on this vehicle. 😂
Jokes aside, if you pay attention to your local classified adds, you will realize that old NA powered cars prices are either never going down or starting to increase. I said it for years, a turbo engine is the worst thing you can get yourself, let alone twin turbos. It's not a question of if they will fail, it's when they will
Diesel turbos have been around for a long time and seem to have proven reliable and long-lasting. Gasoline turbos, on the other hand...Just as you said. Best to be avoided.
I have the ford flex, same car different body. I've replaced both turbos, one cat, timing set and water pump. Over ten thousand in repairs but it runs great now and I love driving it so worth it to me.
These engines make it seem easy, but there is a lot going on in a direct injected turbo. IMO the problem is the customer is demanding 400 horsepower when it doesn't really need half that. Engines could be simpler and more reliable. But you can't measure reliability on the new car lot. You can compare horsepower and fuel milage. Combine that with some emission numbers to hit and some kind of budget boundary and this is what you get. Either do the oil changes on time, keep your foot out of it or don't get a direct injected turbo.
I have a 2011 Lincoln MKT with 170k miles and its rear turbo started smoking like crazy. Got it replaced by a cheap mechanic for 1100 with a used genuine turbo, 100 miles later turbo blew. Then i realized they never replaced the feed line and it was leaking super bad, so I decided to park it in my garage and do the rear turbo with another used one from LKQ, took an insanely long time and a lot of work, but eventually I got the turbo out and a good used one installed. Then after started the dam front turbo blew immediately far worse than the rear turbo, now I got the front turbo replaced, doing it home and going used cost me about 6-700 in parts but the amount of work made it completely not worth it. I mainly did it for the experience since I am in my early 20s and have a nice set of tools after doing this job. NOT WORTH IT, but was an experience so its fine. Will sell car and get an even more unreliable 335.
Great story!
So do the turbo in pairs when replacing? Even if it's just one? Lol
N54 💀
Go port injection and remove direct injection! Those high pressure injectors cost an arm and a leg
Also go single turbo
Turbo cars are bad.
You should have used new parts.
I'm so sick of hearing of these late model vehicles only lasting 100,000 miles. Maybe the manufacturers deserve the hard times they're facing. So glad I still have my 96 Gran Sport with the 3800 in it. Being 62, I'll probably die before it does!
They’ve reverted back to the 70’s when cars rusted out bad and barely made to the junkyard with 100k…this is why you don’t buy anything newer than a 2013
I have owned several GM 3.8L bullet proof
One of the if not thee best engines ever built. Easily with regular maintenance you can get 300,000 miles out of it.
I have a 2014 Ford Mustange gt convertible with over 200,000 miles with very little issues. Just needs regular maintenance.
You don't have to look very hard to find cars that have gone well beyond 100k.
Oil change Oil Changes Oil Changes
BTW, don't forget to change your OIL!
and your filter........
@@gordythecreator Every 5-10k using ACEA oils.
And use ONLY SYNTHETIC.
Lolol. That's cute, you think that will work.. ;)
Just junk made out of light materials.
My grandfather who is close to a century lost his driver license and kept his MKT in his garage for about 6 months, just sitting in it, listening to the radio etc… I felt bad for him, losing his independence, it was a big blow to him.
He finally decided to sell it, I wanted it but complicated family matters and the person in charge of it sold it to a dealer for nothing… I was extremely pissed off for a long time but deep down I knew the turbos would be a pain sooner or later.
People laugh at this vehicle because of its look but inside is where you are and it’s a really nice and confortable place to be, quite peppy as well considering the size.
Its amazing how badly well taken care of cars are treated in the estates of senior citizens. Some are sent directly to junkyards because they think its just some old car with no value.
@ well said.
Oil changes and letting the engine idle for a minute or two before shutting down to cool the turbo so the residual oil doesn’t coke up, burn the seals and kill the turbos. I turn off the engine stop/start system in mine when highway driving for sure!
And… 5000 mile or 20% oil life oil changes with filter and high quality oil without fail! I recently traded my 2013 F150 with 120K. No oil consumption, no cam phaser rattle and the turbos still pushed another atmosphere with 88 octane or better fuel.
Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance!
Agreed, I have an early Gen 2 Raptor, and it just needs regular maintenance to run without issues. I always change the oil every 5,000 miles, warm up the engine before driving, and let it idle for a minute or two after a drive. With over 60,000 miles, I’ve had zero mechanical issues and no cam problems so far.
I agree, too many people are just terrible owners and don't deserve the vehicles they drive. 😂
You would normally be right but the FWD 3.5 ecoboosts have a faulty design with the journals that just crap out around 100k.
Or just a buy a truck that doesn't need 2 inhalers to make power
In older turbo vehicles, they used to write that on the sun-visor. “Let vehicle idle for two minutes prior to shutting down.”
I'd be willing to bet that, based on the filthy engine bay, the owner went to quick oil change places and used crappy oil. They most likely exceeded the recommended oil change intervals. Lots of failures and a lot of them fail because of lack of maintenance. I've seen many Ecoboost engines last well over 200k miles with proper maintenance.
Yeah the car definitely wasn’t cared for. Looks like it hasn’t been washed in a few years either
I can back your claim up. Bought a used 2014 Ford escape 1.6L AWD with 65,000ish miles cash when i got out of the military.
Bought a warranty from a Ford dealership near me. Best 4200$ ever spent.
The previous owner barely did oil changes if that.
Engine went at 80,000ish miles due to sludge oil in the motor. Payed extra for a new crate motor.
Transmission went at 102,700 miles, most likely my fault by have the fluid serviced.
Payed extra for a crate transmission.
At 124,804 miles, transfer case was grinding and rear differential was not looking good.
Warranty payed for a brand new transfer case and i bought a 14,000ish mile unit at a local scrap yard for 300$ that came from a flood 2015 Ford Escape.
They installed it, with no warranty on the rear differential.
274,000 miles later, cars great. Many suspension components and wear and tear items have been replaced over the last 3 years.
Over all been a great car since the major parts were replaced.
My 4.6 powered E250 has 442,700 plus miles on it and I expect many more miles to come. A heavy vehicle should ideally have a big enough engine to drive it without having turbos or supercharging to power it.
I've heard so many horror stories about the quick oil change places. In fairness, I don't know how statistically true they are, though. Regardless, I don't trust a place like that with any of my vehicles, especially when an oil change with high quality oil is such an easy DIY job. McOil Change Deluxe number 3 combo. No thanks.
Well that's a pretty illconceived comment about the dirty engine compartment being dirty is an indication of using cheap oil change places. You can tell by how dirty the engine compartment looks where they got their oil changes? AmaZING! Because dealerships... what? pressure wash the engine compartment when you get an oil change? (no, they don't) Because dealerships hand-wipe-down the engine compartment when you get an oil change? (no, they don't). No dealership cleans the engine compartment during an oil change. And there is NOTHING a dealership does when they change the oil that a "quick lube" place doesn't do. The dealership assigns oil changes to the lowest-paid shop employees... the shop grunts. They are not paid any more than the employees at a quick-lube place.
The dealership doesn't use any different or better oil when you go in for an oil change than the quick lube place. Quick oil change places always use name-brand oil in my experience (out of 55 gallon drums for commonly used oils) and out of quart containers for less commonly used oils. I use a quick lube shop for oil changes on a European luxury car with a turbo. They get the proper Euro-spec 0W20 synthetic oil from Liqui-Moly because the US/Japan spec synthetic 0W-20 oil is not supposed to be used when the manufacturer specifies the Euro-spec version of 0W-20 synthetic. And the quick lube place told me that before even accepting the oil change job, I knew that Euro-spec synthetic was the required oil, and it gave me confidence that they would only put the right oil in the car (but I still watch to be sure). I've seen the quick lube place refuse to put the wrong oil in the car even if the owner asked for the wrong oil--owner wanted conventional oil, but the engine required synthetic. Like every business today, if do crappy work, it starts showing up in online reviews and people will begin staying away from, the business in droves.
The idea that anyone can buy another one for the same price is irrational. You’d most likely have to replace the turbos and cats on that one too.
yeah thats what I was thinking you will just be waiting for those turbos to go bad
It's like going to square one again. I just go to another brand
Not if you get one thats naturally aspirated.
I would say, if you like having a Lincoln MKT despite the fact that they have this failure-prone design, you price out a different one assuming you need to do this work. I can't imagine buying one. These cheap turbos are the bane of the industry.
@@OmniaNihil Would reqire considerable engineering effort to remove the turbos which includes the 'kicker' of having to 'reflash' the ECU so that it doesn't place the engine in 'limp home' mode, or worse won't allow it to start. Needless to say, such a bespoke ECU reflash would be expensive whilst the performance of the said car fitted with turboless engine would be 'slow' - which is an understatement.
I owned a 2013 SHO. Maintained meticulously, PTU fluid changed (had the Performance package). At 75k miles the left turbo needed repairing.
Sometimes those pricey service/diagnostic subscriptions are AT YOUR LIBRARY and you can access them for free. Ask your reference librarian.
Oh wow, good info!
I'll wager the library doesn't update them every month if at all.
Dang I'll have to ask!
@@johngaither9263it's online...
librarian here...we get our service manual access from Alldata@@johngaither9263
RENAULT FUEGO!!!! Wow, Mr. Wizard, I see a Renault Fuego in the background. I sure hope you do a video on that one! Has to be super rare to find one running today! I owned a 1981 Renault 18i that was a 4 door variant on the same platform same engine, unless the Fuego had the turbo charged variant as an option. Mine was the worst car I ever had. After the 12/12000 mile warrenty went up: Transmission got stuck in reverse 3 times after the warranty expired. The machining on the transmission forks looked like they were welded by some backyard amateur, had to replace a warped head at 19K, cracking leather seats (the factory rep, stated it must have been a sick cow....no joke; refused to replace), 4 cracked distributor caps, temperature slide mechanism broke 3 times (again crappy engineering), my mechanic was appalled at when taking out the dash, instead of having consistent screw heads, nuts, to remove it, there was a variation of standard and philips heads to remove, plus 3 sizes of small nuts. Slipping clutch, squishy ride, squishy and squealing brakes, before I dumped it at 38K I wish I could remember all of the repairs that had to be done. It was the worst car in my opinon ever to be marketed by AMC dealerships. I still have a sales brochure to remind me of it. I really hope you do a video on this car, the problems it has, but also a review of the cabin features, and the undercarriage.
I immediately picked it up too. What's going on Wizard?
my mother bought a LeCar, ie renault 5. Head blew eventually and the car was done.
I had a 2010 Lincoln MKT ECOboost all wheel drive. I miss it so much. I had over 170,000 miles on mine with no mechanical issues or check engine lights. Mine was killed by a deer even though it drove over 600 miles back home. The insurance totaled it. MIne was white with those same wheels. When I checked the turbos on mine, I did not see coolant lines. I just saw oil lines going to them. One of the turbos barely started leaking at 170,000. I guess I was lucky but, I did not skip on oil changes and I switched to full synthetic oil as soon as I got the car.
she's a Goner set for the scrap yard😭😭
I had a 2009 MKS with 3.7 non-turbo and was really great cat. Traded it in with 189k miles just because was tired of leaking sunroof which couldn't figure out. It ate wheel bearings did each wheel at least once and some twice but no other mechanical problems. It had original water pump, alternator, and everything else but wheel bearings and owned it from 20k miles. Really great car. I would recommend to anyone. Just get the 3.7 only....
drain was probably clogged
Seen 3.7's on the liveries have over 700k. 3.7 ford is probably the best engine they made (aside from water pump)
That's really sad. If Ford had just put a naturally aspirated 5.0L V8 in there, it'd have had another 200,000 miles or more left in it (if the rust didn't get it first). I think we're going to see this sort of scenario become the norm with how many turbo'd small engines are being offered in things now. Reminds me of something Wizard said a few views back where we're past the golden age of long term reliability.
Ford v8, with a wet belt? It will not last
@@rodvan-zeller6360wet chain
A transversely mounted coyote sounds… fun to service in that engine bay lol
@@rodvan-zeller6360the coyote doesn’t have a wet belt. The first commenter was clearly referring to the coyote.
@@inherentlyflawed2021 and newer truck engines do.
I am a Lincoln fan, but that pretty much ends with the 1979 models, with one exception. I have owned three. Two Mark IVs and a Mark V. The one exception is the Panther based Town Car. I have never owned one of those, I chose the Mercury Grand Marquis instead, because it shares a lot more parts with the Crown Vic. I wouldn't touch an EcoBoost engine with a 10 foot pole. That other one for $6K is also junk. Stay FAR away from ANY Ford with the EcoBoost engine. My 2006 Grand Marquis has 289,000 miles, Only engine related issues were a bad alternator, MAF sensor, and serpentine belt tensioner and idler pulley. That's it. Still has its original timing components, with no sign of can chain rattle.
The existence of garbage like this is why it is now worth putting large amounts of money into older well made well designed vehicles to keep them going. There will never be any more well made or easy to fix vehicles, new vehicles are far worse than this pile of trash. And still getting worse by the year.
Rust that bad usually means it has been driven on salted roads at some point. Apparently Kansas does use salt on I-70 in the winter. Avoid that highway in the winter.
I would ask the customer "How much do you like your car?" Honestly you could buy another car for the same amount of money, but it will probably have the same issue sooner or later. Might as well put the money in the car, and have fresh turbos. All that oil probably fouled the cat too.
That's what I was thinking. the car he shows for sale for $4500 we didn't get the mileage. Could have had 150k miles or more. If the motor is not burned up, I'd say it's worth it to put $6k into it rather than buy a new one
Sunk cost fallacy.
Unless I was getting a discount on labor for replacing both turbos, I would bring it to an honest mechanic that would just replace the one turbo that was bad.
Might as well pick a different car
He was quoting $4-5K for the turbos. New cats would have been extra and also not cheap. This would be worth doing if you had the ability and the tools to do it yourself, and were in no kind of rush to get it back on the road. Garrett turbos, a cat delete, and a tune and it drives better than when it left the factory.
Yea, my 2010 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost blew both its turbos up and it was going to cost $5,000 in repairs and puked oil into the catalytic converters. It only had 70,000 miles on it before I traded it in for an F-150 with the 5.0L V8. The truck has been amazing. No issues over the last 2 years.
Lincoln knew their buyers when building this looking just like a hearse 💀💀💀
😂😂😂😂💯💯
Yeah thing is hideous
I have a Flex which is the Ford version. I think it looks much better than the MKT, which I've never cared for. The Lincoln does have a much nicer interior, though. I'll give it that.
@@davidtoups4684 Yeah the Lincoln version definitely has a nice interior but the exterior got hit with the ugly stick 😭 I always thought the Ford Flex version looked cool.
Time and time again Wizard proves that ICE engines are crap. But people complain about BEV batteries going bad instead. I guess at some point wizard needs to switch to historic car business or start working on BEVs.
So, correct me if I’m mistaken, but if both turbos on this vehicle have failed, rendering the vehicle almost worthless, why would the guy at the Ford dealership recommend only Ford original replacements when they’ve proven themselves to have an excessively high failure rate? Are the Ford replacements going to be any better? Is he just towing the company line or are the aftermarket replacements really going to be worse?
With that engine, it's probably time for the $2500 water pump job.
Worst. location. ever
And the timing chain should be replaced especially on the Ecoboost applications. There’s a reason why police departments preferred the 3.7 and 3.5 V6 over the 3.5 EcoBoost. If it’s in an F150 or Expedition, that’s the only option that the police can buy because the speedometer has to be calibrated with a certificate. That’s why you see “certified calibration” on pursuit rated police cars. Since 2015, all Ford Expeditions uses the 3.5 EcoBoost V6 and it’s the only engine you can get. The F150 has more engine options like the 2.7 EcoBoost, 3.5 EcoBoost, 3.5 PowerBoost, and the 5.0 V8. The 3.3 V6 was discontinued in the 2023 model year F150 because they needed more 3.3 V6’s going into the Ford Explorers used exclusively by law enforcement. The Transit vans use a similar engine than the 3.3 and that’s the 3.5 liter V6.
I do them for $1000 and people think it's insane money until they call the dealer for a quote 😂
Thankfully my old car will cost me $50 to do the water pump!!!
@@atx-cvpi_99 in the expedition the 3.5 is lenght wise so that helps some. The 3.7 has the same little oil powered mechanical parts shifting things around in it as the 3.5 does. I use motor flush at oil change time and I use that stiction eliminator in there also. Just 8 ounces with the change. It's essential.
Seems like a common denominator is extended oil change intervals, on failed turbos, timing chains, catalytic converters, excessive carbon build up, failed lifters, you name it.
...it's also zero weight oils. 0w-20 does not lubricate like 5w-30 does.
Probably skimped out on oil changes and used the cheapest quality oil, probably at a quick lube joint.
possibly true.....but a GM 3.8 or Toyota 5SFE engine with the same cheap late oil changes would most likely still run well
@neilduncan8657 yes, but those don't have turbos. Turbos need good oil
One thing I remember about the MKT was it was pushed on livery services right after the Town Car was discontinued.
I too thought it was ugly and looked like a classless Hearse.
I do love my Lincolns though. I used to own a 2014 MKZ that I loved.
As much as I don’t exactly like the MkT, this is sad. It deserved better.
And today almost ALL vehicles have turbos. Don't want one.
It's all in how they were made and by whom. I wouldn't trust a Ford turbo.
EV's don't 🤣
Depends on the manufacturer. Volvo has been doing this for 40 years. Porsche even longer.
Smaller engines on bigger vehicles won't bode well
@@SuperDirk1965it's funny how that Porsche called their top EV model the Taycan Turbo. They didn't even bother putting a picture of a turbo
I think I'll just keep my 2011 Mercury Mariner with the 3.0L V6. Non turbo, runs great at 116,000 miles. A friend just had to replace a temp sensor for the turbo on his Escape. No after market available. Sensor was $1,100.
We have the same problems in Europe where manufacturers are putting the likes of turbocharged 1.2 litre petrol engines in large SUVs. The Ford Ecoboost engines are nicknamed 'ecoboom' in the UK for good reason.
Lol don't tell the Ford fanboys that. They seem to think the ecoboom is the best thing since sliced bread. Here in the US Ford uses plastic oil pans. Everything is becoming so cheaply made but cost a premium.
@jeepinintexas6215 I was one of those fanboys at one point until my SHO started living in the shop. Intake cam, cam phasers, PTU, HVAC blend door actuator, and EPAS all replaced at around 40k miles with religious oil changes. 20k miles later, I started getting that rattle again. Sold the car with just over 60k miles and never looked back.
I'm interested to see how those 0.9, direct injection, turbo engines, 3 cylinder engines hold up.
If they're oil cooled, letting the engine run before shutting off is a must, as is early oil changes.
Ecoboost 3.5L’s are reliable engines if they are maintained. People gripe about the price of cars and then don’t take care of expensive vehicles.
I'm guessing the turbos?
I know the rear is more common. I used to own a FWD 3.5 Ecoboost.
I got rid of mine around 90k miles because I didn't want to end up with expensive issues. Maybe the next person had good luck, maybe not.
03 Grand Marquis here, 475,000 miles, still runs and drives like new on the original engine, transmission, axel, front suspension, even the original power windows.
It has needed, from new, 1 lighting control module under recall, 1 intake manifold, 1 gear selector bulb, 1 water pump, 1 alternator, several sets of spark plugs and coil on plugs, it did need 1 alignment at 170,000 miles and the original fuel pump died at 429,000 miles.
We did do the timing set at 212,000 miles, but it wasn't even needed at that time. In the family since new and got in 03 for $23,000 after all rebates. South in no salt, so that does help.
You beat me. 89 Grand Marquis, 427K, frame rotting out, had ubolts thru the floor with bid brake pad backing plates to hold the transmission mount frame in. 22 mpg highway, still passed tailpipe emissions. Think about it, I put maybe 4-5 Large into a car, including purchase price and put 300K miles on a car. Next was 97 Outback, that one was 8-9K and drove it 200K. Not totals, how far it lasted me.
My dad has an 03 GM Ultimate. The fenders are starting to rust, but otherwise rock solid with about 240K miles.
That’s cause ford used the understressed 4.6 V8 in those cars. Bigger 4 bangers and lazy running V8s that rev lower just seem to last. Especially if your not running power adders on them
Can't believe there's a Renault Fuego in the background.A:- Who in hell would pay money to have one fixed and B:- Why isn't it just a pile of dust like all of the ones here in the UK were about 25 years back?
I saw that too.
Urination Bob lifted his leg up on that French cooky jar.
Have you seen the weather and climate in the UK? Quite different from much of the US.
In front of our school there was always one parked in front of a bar (probably owner) and we all thought it was cool as hell.
Who would have paid money for one in the first place? Their reliability made Yugos look good.
I'm a chauffeur and that's the kind of car we use. some of them are over 300k miles and are still running strong! Lincoln was still building them for fleets after Ford killed off all their cars
This car would make a crazy sleeper. 3.5L Ecoboost engines can make up to 700hp with proper upgrades. Larger Garrett turbos, high flow cats, 3.5 inch exhaust and proper tuning. It has more to do with how the car was taken care of and the parts the manufacturer used. I agree with someone else that proper cooling of the turbos after driving is a must. I have a 2002 Subaru WRX and one of the 1st mods I did was a turbo timer. It alows the car to idle after removing the key for a time you can set up to 10 minutes to alow the turbos to cool off. I got 172,000 miles on that engine.
It's yoked to transmission that cannot handle that power....
A turbo timer is great for for turbos that don't have the center section water cooled... It would be great if they came up with something that circulated the coolant on these to compensate for the heat soak they're taking.
Water cooled center sections normally do not need turbo timers.
@@1crustyoldmsgtretired870that's possible what the auxiliary coolant pump from a hybrid vehicle it's 12v put the timer on that
You could, but why? Sleepers are kind of fun but the novelty wear off fast. Just pick up and ecoboost 'Stang and be done with it.
Your suspicious are correct, the engine oil wasn't changed in a timely manner. That doesn't mean the first version of the turbos weren't without fault. The 2010 through 2012 turbos were mounted directly to the engine and the engine heat also assisted in doing them in. The turbos on my 2010 with 160,000 miles had fine cracks that seeped oil, however they were still in perfect working order. Later versions have a bit of a neck to them, getting the turbos itself off the engine and solving the problem. My current MKT is about to roll 60,000 miles, so I still have a ways to go to see how well it lasts. Regardless, these were very fine cars and I would buy a 3rd if Lincoln still built them. But we do have the Aviator, now.
A sad replacement for the Panther platform Lincoln’s. Ct. Cg
Transverse front wheel drive drivetrain architecture, nothing could possibly go wrong.
I had a 2010 Ecoboost….. I replace the rear turbo twice….. I sold it for $900 bucks. Loved it, until it didn’t love me back.
My two favorite features were the rear seat flipped backwards for tailgate movie night and you can roll up and down all the windows with the remote.
Cooked turbos? (HaH! i was rt) Bet it's because Oil Changes weren't done on time.
Also using 20 wieght oils like the manufacturer recommends doesn't help either.
@@billdang3953 That claim has already been proven false, like 100x already...
I get so tiered of hearing "not worth fixing" and "cost more than its worth" n8ne of our volvos was "worth to fix" according to "mechanics. Took me 6 hours to fix the worst of them (turbo failure at 267xxx kms). Runs perfectly and optimized to 240hp. Not "worth it" my rear end. Also, mkt s are so ugly that is a service to humanity to junk them.
Well, the customer decided that for him it wasn’t worth it. That car will probably be bought at auction and shipped to Nigeria where it will have a new lease on life.
When your are paying $200/hour for labour it does not need much of a job to make it not economically viable. I also do my own repairs, I've had my car 12 years and the only jobs I paid for were tracking, tyres and a new windscreen.
And you might as well get a timing chain and water pump replacement as well. 100,000 miles is a great time to replace the timing chain and water pump along with the oil pump and exhaust manifolds as well. The power steering rack is also a known failure point on these cars as well. Don’t forget the catalytic converters as well. You can try cleaning the catalytic converters but it might not be worth it.
I feel bad when people have these cars that are in great condition all around and the interior, but then the motor is cooked and the car is basically garbage.
And then how do you get it out of your life?
This is an advertisement for planned obsolescence
An advertisement for not buying a Ford.
No have you not heard of wet belt engines?!?! 😂
@@rigell2764 Just buy the panther platform
This is proof of accelerated obsolescence 😳😳😳
Since at LEAST the 1960's {see Vance Packard-The Waste Makers}
I’m so happy with my cammed 5.3 ecotech Silverado and 6.2 Yukon Denali (yes I deleted the stupid cylinder deactivation crap) I get insane mpg if I respect highway speeds and never worry about crazy turbo expenses. I just hope GM keeps their senses since all other (except for the coyote) have lost their senses when it comes to engines.
C: BAD TURBOS
I once did a turbo delete on a Mazda 626. I made a plate to cover the turbo mounting spot on the manifold, braised the oil feed tube, capped the oil return, and installed a large bypass between the air flow meter and the throttle body. Worked great, albeit with far less power. Cheap, for sure.
Hey there is the huge factor of how well the customer did or did not maintain the vehicle. As you said you "could" by one but not know anything about the service history, driven hard excessive idle etc. You really shouldn't compare apples to oranges. Personally, I'm going with the turbo repair and anticipate the cats (likely sooner than later, agree) In short, my vote with today's prices is and has been repair over the cost of a new car.
I have a 2013 Passat with the 2.5L. No turbo. Almost 100k miles and it's been a great car and I haven't had any problems. Will use maybe a half quart of oil in 3000-4000 miles. My tailpipe is definitely sooty. Engine seems very healthy, I replaced spark plugs when I bought it, about 25k miles ago. Only use top tier detergent gas. Drive about 20 miles highway each way for work. So I don't know, but the tailpipe is sooty for sure. Interesting.
I have a 2011 Jetta with that same motor and transmission, currently has 224k miles on it. I've never seen evidence of it burning oil, this motor seems pretty easy on the oil overall. If you've not changed the coil packs yet I'd recommend changing them for Bosch red tops eventually.
They made a nonturbo option on these. Slower, but you're buying a Lincoln not a race car. The 3.5, with the exception of the asinine location of the water pump, is actually a really good engine. But turbocharging it vastly shortens the life.
it also happens if you pushing the turbos a lot for more psi and more power
2012 3.7L no Turbo 480,000
@@RealLiveEnt321 you see you see you don't need no stinking turbo in order for an engine to be both powerful and last
The old saying ain't no replacement for displacement again proves true. Boosting small engines to pressures that require twice the maintenance just don't fit the North American driving style. I had a 1987 Nissan with the 2.4 non turbo 4 banger. I loved that truck. Me and my friend took that thing everywhere, got wood and took the fishing boat all sorts of places. Never were the first ones there but we always got there and back, listened to some good tunes and had great conversations. Too bad rust took that truck I miss those times where we just slowed down and be human.
There is replacement for displacement. This is just crap car & old car that wasn’t maintained
I own 2 MKT's one 13 with 3.7 non turbo has 270ish k and one water pump replacement did my self around 230k and air intake sensor. Have a 2019 MKT with the 3.5 boost bought with 49k on it and purchased the extended warranty cause I know at some point the turbos are toast and it's 5k+. The 2k or so ya sped on the warranty is well worth it. Buy any passenger car with a turbo it's gonna be double the normal cost to fix, but with labor and parts these days seems almost everything is in that 3-5k range to fix.
About a month after I told the customer to sell his 2014 explorer, the front turbo lost the nut that keeps the impeller on which went to the rear turbo and locked it up so hard the exhaust impeller launched itself through the rear catalytic. Good times.
If there is oily sludge at the ends of the tailpipes, then 100% guaranteed the catalytic converters are toast.
That's too bad. It's a pretty cool car, otherwise.
I had a 1993 Celica with a (I think it was) Garret turbo that lost a tiny piece of the intake impeller at about 112K miles. I spent thousands to rebuild the car with a brand new 3S-GTE short block. Bottom line: rebuild your turbos when everything is still working great and avoid the pain of junking the whole car. It also depends on whether you are a do it yourself mechanic or a person that takes cars to a professional, in which case, multiply your costs by 5 or more. The Hoovie way VS the Tavarish way.
16:42 "if you are curious what kind of tools we are not gonna use on this one..." XD XD
After dealing with the EcoBoost in my 2014 Escape, I have just sworn off the complete engine line and went back to N/A engines again. Actually traded the '14 Escape on an '11 Toyota Rav4. What was even worse, the EcoBoost was less reliable than the 2.7tt I had in my old '04 Audi A6.
2.0 ecoboost is fairly decent in them. The 1.6, not so much. Those escapes are just plain overall garbage. Very lucky if you get 150k out of one of those without major mechanical failure such as a trans or engine.
I just did an overhaul on one for my brother/niece. Put a low mileage used engine, rear differential, and the trans was replaced by the previous owner. It only made sense since I did the labor at no charge. Great driving little suvs, just mechanically garbage
@@mph5896 Ford changed the head gasket design for some of the 2.0 year Escape. I Saw Ford tech malukco on his channel have to replace an engine due to the poor head gasket design.
I remember Ford was having so many problems with their 3.5 V6s, ranging from Lincolns to Ford Police Interceptors, which didn't get solved until they moved on to the 3.7 Cyclone. What's crazy is Ford was still building the Panther cars in 2010, and they can run circles around those Fords with the 3.5s. I bought an ex-cop Crown Vic which I expected to find some major issues, but all I needed to do were oil changes, new tires, new brake pads, plus a new trunk actuator which took me less than 30 minutes to fix.
I got 138k on my 2013 Lincoln MKT, it had all waterpump done with the Chains, 1 owner, fully optioned, well taken care of. Matience done.
Matience, eh?
I have a 2013 Ford Edge with the 3.5 non-turbo engine. 150,000 miles runs great doesn’t use oil but I’m scared to death of the water pump. I change the oil every 5000 miles with full synthetic and flush the radiator every two years. I hope I will make at least 200,000 before it craters. I’m buying a used Toyota Highlander when the Ford goes.
Those pumps tend to start failing at 150k miles. You could just have it replaced now and save the headache later.
@@TheTardis157 it depends i buy cars with this engines all the time and many times this engines reach 200,00 miles and still original water pumps, you cant really tell at how many miles the water pump will fail!!
just change the water pump and get it over with is like changing a timing belt every 100,00 miles almost the same cost, there are backyard shops who will charge you 800 dllrs labor plus parts, nothing different from a timing belt change, i done lots of this pumps its not that difficult, or wait till your explorer gives you signs like overheating and mix coolant with oil which is worse, if you done all those services you should be fine, i rather own a ford explorer than a toyota at any given day but just because i know this engine they last for a long time as long as you service them, change the water pump bro is definitely cheaper in the long run
Time to take that to Wichita and leave the keys in it.
lol
3:51. Is that a Renault Fuego in the background? I forgot those cars even existed. I hope you make a video about it.
My 17 year old rx350 is just getting broke in at 110k......
I'm going to assume that your RX350 doesn't have turbochargers. Not an apples-apples comparison.
This Lincoln would have lasted longer if it was naturally aspirated, like your Lexus
Love those things, bulletproof 💪🏾
Just traded my 2005 RX330(225K) for a 2010 RX 450H with 125K. They really do build great cars👍
My 2004 RX330 AWD is doing just fine. Love it. It’s great in the snow
You must run the best oil you can and change it and the filter at short mileage/time/service intervals in any turboed vehicle.....
It would appear, as I always believed, that the old adage, "There's no replacement for displacement" still holds true.
🎯 Or as were say in Europe, don't use a Shetland pony to pull a railroad wagon.
Small engines naturally aspirated do wonders for 1 ton cars but you can't ask them to do what they are not designed to do.
Designed to be a "throwaway" engine/car. If it was designed for easier R&R, how much more would that have added to the cost of the car? If it added anything. Now this MKT is a parts car.
In July of this year, I told my mechanic I was going to kick the tires on a MKT. He practically pleaded with me to take a hard pass because of the turbo issues. I went to a nearby Honda dealership and bought a new Accord. I might have dodged a financial bullet there.
Seems weird for someone looking to buy a large Lincoln luxury crossover (used) to ultimately buy a Honda Accord instead (new) 😂 those two vehicles are just night and day different from eachother and likely wouldn't be cross-shopped by anyone.
@@Stressless2023
Spot on, my kid got T-boned so I gave her my Lexus. Needed an immediate everyday driver. She drove me to Honda where I informed my sales lady my intention to buy Lincoln but they just happened to be in the way. Poor thing actually pleaded with me not to go Lincoln. I negotiated a hardball price ($30.500). She actually drove me to the bank to get the cashiers check. No warranty, xtras or dealer add on’s. Drove it away with the pink on the way. I’m still getting a Lincoln at some time tho. Like the idea of a fresh car and zero miles.
Going from a Lexus to Lincoln, not sure that’s a wise move.
@@hokie9910
Like I wrote, my daughter needed a car immediately after her accident. Please elaborate, do you consider the Lexus (I350- ‘18’) superior to the Lincoln?
As for me, the bottom line trim level Accord is fine. No power seats, sunroof, seat warmers… etc. I’m in my 60’s so it’s all good.
@ I’m a Lexus guy, period. I don’t think there’s been a good Lincoln built in many years unfortunately. In the 80s-90s the Lincoln Town Car was a well built car that would go a very long time.
I have a 2010 MKT with 173k miles. I canr believe it's still running but its needing some work. Shes a runner though. Mines has every available option and that 3.5 Ecoboost flies. 0 to 60 in under 7 secs. A friend of mine had his turbos both replaced for 3500 at a shop. They had it for about 4 days. Big job. He said it was worth it because its still cheaper than a 800-1000 car note which is the going rate for new and used cars. He had this done almost two years ago.
Maybe I am wrong but I don't think the value of the car should determine the max repair bill. Sure, go buy another car for the same price as repairing, and then those turbos will fail too. Or, keep your car that you maintained well and know the history of; and it's got new turbos!
It's fine if you replace it with something reliable like a Toyota
@@theredscourgeeven Toyota has many issues
@@ThePontiac98 Every car has issues, Toyotas have drastically less. Avoid the latest gen for a few years and you're good.
The problem is that it sounds like they haven’t maintained it well, an MKT with the turbo job done isn’t worth significantly more, and once you’re that deep into a car like this you’re setting yourself up to fall into a sunk-cost fallacy.
This is exactly why when I bought my transit 350 xl xt I got the 3.7 motor with the 4.10 LS rear. I read hundreds of pages on the 3.5 TT. Coming out of an MB sprinter, I want nothing more to do diesels or turbos ... On my sprinter it blew a turbo under warranty @96k. I traded it @ 430k miles on the same replacement turbo. Stiction eliminator with every oil change. There was a handful of stuff I had to do to keep that sprinter running, all focused on the turbo, fuel and DPF systems.
My opinion is the general public isn't ready for turbo engines and the maintenance requirements! Most people just ignore maintenance it's really sad
You are correct; the COST of a simple oil change is absurd, then the STUPIDITY of engine builds and its MORE money to maintain a gas car. Not for this writer, I drive an EV=near zero maintenance for this writer
@harriettanthony7352 you spent you absurd oil changes on the stupid EV. Huge cost difference reg vehicle doesn't even cost close as much total as an EV. Keep lying to yourself
Yep.
This kinda crap is why we sold my wife's 2013 SHO.
Replacing the friggin WATER PUMP is OVER $2200 in PARTS!!
And I do ALL the work on our cars. I have my own lift.
We switched to Panthers and Mark VIII's. Damn mod motors run FOREVER!
The Mark VIII is a difficult car to keep running but I love them so it's worth it to me. But I wouldn't recommend them to anyone else.
A panther, though.... that's a different story. You look at them sideways and they'll start back up like they feel guilty about causing you trouble.
What makes the Lincoln Mark VIII's difficult to keep running? I've had two 97 LSC's and regret selling them, one needed a trans rebuild but both had strong engines, considering buying another 97-98 LSC.
@Stressless2023 it's engine management, mostly... The kind of wiring and connectors they used back then get real brittle after they've been heat cycled a bazillion times... Half the connectors in my 95 are held together with zip ties... It's OBD1 so it's a pain to diagnose... The steering rack is going bad... the charging system is a constant headache... but, I'll never sell it. I love driving it. It's comfy as hell and reasonably quick. I call it my "racing couch"....
Why would anyone fix it? These "luxury" cars are meant for 1 owner and then they get a new one well before 100k miles.
Guaranteed turbos for this engine can be bought for around $500-$600 and mechanics I've asked about em say they are exact replacement fit and work better than the oem. I know how to turn a wrench for many things. This is definitely be buying for cheap and repair. The rust he mentioned would be of a bigger concern and could be a deal breaker. Parts around 1500 total including new converter. Instead of junking, I'd buy it. for cheap. UP to a thousand bucks. and have new turbos instead of used on a used one for $6k.
2:05 very odd placement of the button to move the throttle and brake pedals.... Wonder why they went up towards the center screen, rather than near the cluster....
That was really nice inside.
Minor body damage doesn't get worse.
The rust is just starting and can be easily addressed.
It starts and runs...
Just needs two turbos, two cats, a repair facility, tools and skilled labour to get it running sweet again.
Would Mr Wizard repair it if it was his car?
Comparing the value of this car to an identical model seems fair but you don't really know what condition that car is in all round.
Being able to do your own work is the only way to keep older cars in serviceable condition. That's as long as parts are still available.
Do you get the feeling that "they" are trying to keep "us" down with debt by forcing full vehicle replacement of perfectly repairable vehicles on us?
Answer is no,he’s not trying to keep us down. He’s just saying he’s has more options to buy a more reliable vehicle for $6500.
No one is keeping anyone down. These conspiracies are getting way out of control. As he noted, you can buy another one without these issues for the same price or less than it cost to fix this one. Simply isn't worth it.
My wife’s grand parents just paid for the failed water pump and timing chain while they were in there. Otherwise the car is perfect and the leather smell is intoxicating. Great highway cruiser. That ecoboost MOVES OUT. An old person car has no business being that fast.
Is it worth buying another, if turbos on it are likely to fail, instead of fixing the car one has and have guaranteed good turbos for a while?
If you hit the INFO button like on all Fords, it'll display the mileage without starting the vehicle.
With turbo engines you must change oil more frequently than what may be recommended. That’s the way it’s always been with turbos.
I love these things, you can get them for super cheap. They were so expensive new, the interior is stunning, I would get the 3.7 for sure though.
Yeah one of these with the 3.7L V6 is a much less expensive alternative - $1,500 to replace the internal water pump/timing chains as preventive maintenance somewhere around 150,000 miles usually and they're good to go.
They should have kept using the 5.4 L V8 engines in the Lincoln MKT’s. Those EcoBoost engines are trash. My 2011 Navigator has the 5.4 V8 motor and I’m at 231,000 miles. I got it at 160k. I take it to the dealer for every oil change and they do a multi point inspection every time and have only had to replace the battery.
MKT is one of the worst names for a car in history.
That's because they couldn't call it towncar
Short for Market. It's a grocery getter.
@GoogleMe-en9sg A grocery getter with 330 HP. For being a boat....it moves pretty good.
Turbos really just hate running with dirty oil. I’ve seen original turbos on a 2.7 Audi v6 go over 250,000 miles and they were still perfectly healthy.
"But Wait!"🤣🤣🤣 Famous last words!😜
There's more.
It's a testament to Billy Mays 🤔🤔🤔
One issue is people are wanting very large cars with large amounts of power which in order to get something like that to meet CAFE standards, a small engine with several turbochargers is the unfortunate reality.
I had a 1982 BMW 528e (E28) with the high efficiency gasoline powered 2.7 liter "eta" straight six. It did not have a tremendous amount of power, but had great torque with a low revving engine. It had a redline of 4500 rpm and got about 30-35 mpg. I got 345,000 miles of that car before it was starting to nickle and dime to death (I had bought it with 105,000 miles on it).
one of the issues is that people don't let the turbos spool down, they just shut the engine down and that starves the turbo oil as the engine feeds the turbo with oil, I always let my car idle for a few minutes when I finish driving anywhere
...and don't push hard while the engine is cold. The engine rotates at 2K rpm but the turbos rotate at 100K rpm.
I do that with my 2018 Flex. I don't let it idle quite as long a you do, but I never just shut it off. I've also used full-synthetic oil since it was new.
I'd feel stupid getting a car that made me babysit my turbos everywhere I went.
Thanks Wizard! Great video as always and very informative.
Long shot of you answering, but I've got an 07' Lexus ES350 with a mystery clunk. We've replaced the lower control arms in front which helped all but a tiny clunk. All other parts appear fine. Only happening when the wheel is fully turned left, but almost sounds like its coming from the rear of the car. (We checked the trunk Lol). We're leaning towards the rear struts, but just wondering if you're able to shine some light?
I fixed my 2010 with new turbos from amazon, and it's been running fine for over a year.Dont be fooled by overpriced labor and parts .
That one not that bad to work on. I fixed a couple for people and even did upgraded one friend with the good garrett turbo and valve upgrade. To be honest for 5k they go for nowadays I may get another one so can turn it into a sleeper. Those 3.5 can push 600hp to 700hp if done right. The problem is would also have to rip the stock exhaust and catalytic converter and go high flow, so would definitely end up dumping about few thousands into it in just parts.
For a technician would be good price to get a nice SUV if you want a sleeper and willing go do some upgrades to it. For general public I don't recommend as all of them by now will need new turbo charges and feed line as well as catalytic converter cleaned, or replaced.
They're not overpriced. You can't run a shop doing free repairs, and can't warranty Amazon turbos. If you do the work yourself and you're replacing them every 100000 miles with Amazon turbos, go right ahead
Always annoys me when my mechanic is waiting for parts for a week when I could have ordered it on Amazon next day
Keep dreaming. I call BS
@@uhill74 waiting a week for parts that will last 10s of thousands of miles longer is time well spent
Hey Wizard thank you for all the honest car knowledge you offer...really enjoy the show...question... Is there a car manufacturer that incorporates a reliable CVT transmission...thanks in advance for any info.
Nissan CVTs are belt-driven. Honda and Toyota have reliable CVT transmissions because they should be planetary gear sets.
Mr Wizard
You should address the water pumps on the Ford Lincoln 3.5 and 3.7 motors. Internal destruction😮
Recommend to change every 100K it’s called maintenance. Change the oil ever 3-5K miles it’s called maintenance.
@@BORIKKEN don’t make excuses, it was a stupid design choice.
I had a 2011 SHO with the 3.5L Ecoboost that I loved till it started falling apart at 100k. It had the opposite problem from this vehicle. The engine was strong but everything else was falling apart
I would have fixed it. What other vehicle you doing to get for 3-5K that it will cost to fix this? The mistake was buying an ecoboost engine to begin with. Might as well ride it out now.
I agree. It’s worth repairing.
Toyota, Lexus, Honda or an Acura with normally aspirated engines will give you 300K miles, easy, with minimum maintenance. In fact if you buy anything NA you are way better off than turbo'd anything.
I always liked the way these look. And I came close to pulling the trigger on one! Hopefully this is a rare case and not indicative of the entirety of this model!
3.5L turbo and AWD are a recipe for disaster on any of the ford products. Explorer, Taurus, MKT, MKS, etc.
I'd love to know the service history... Like did they push oil changes on that turbo motor.
Just indicative of the 3.5. All the other engines are solid. If they are kept up on maintenance, they can last a long time like any other car. It's just that repairs make it mechanically totalled even if spending that amount of money will mean the car is good for another 100k with some other parts wearing out. Still going to cost less than a few months of a new car payment which average $1000 today...
Oil changes were always important. But nowadays, they are critical. Naturally aspirated engines have small oil drainback passages, allowing for sludge buildup with infrequent oil changes. But the turbos are critical. They heat the oil to extremes. They pressurize the cylinders, increasing load on the rings and increasing soot in the oil. CHANGE THE OIL!!!
Lesson learned, never buy a turbocharged car unless you trade often.
Most use junk turbo chargers with underpowered engine. Plus even with good performance parts, they still require upgrades and maintenance, not something I would recommend for the general public. Better to go with a natural aspiration engine, will last way longer.
as a former mechanic I'm a little surprised the owner doesn't want to make the repairs. A new similar vehicle is very big money. A good used replacement vehicle will cost plenty and may have a bunch of problems. Its resale value is not relevant if it will go another 75k when repaired. What about aftermarket or used cats? What am I not understanding? Having said that I do feel that Fords are generally trash.
I honestly always liked the design of this generation MKT. It looks like a modern day Hearse, but black or other darker colors are the best on this vehicle. 😂
It is essentially a taller Country Squire station wagon and therefore quite cool.
The Flex is probably the better-looking minivan, but definitely an interesting take on the classic formula.
It's as ugly as hell. Yuck!
@@CB12345 it's ugly
@@Browningate Totally agreed. Even more so with Real Vinyl Wood Trim!
Possibly the only Renault Fuego Turbo left in the US lol.
Jokes aside, if you pay attention to your local classified adds, you will realize that old NA powered cars prices are either never going down or starting to increase. I said it for years, a turbo engine is the worst thing you can get yourself, let alone twin turbos. It's not a question of if they will fail, it's when they will
Diesel turbos have been around for a long time and seem to have proven reliable and long-lasting. Gasoline turbos, on the other hand...Just as you said. Best to be avoided.
There are also many bad NA powered cars. It's not about the aspiration, it's about the manufacturer.
@@MidshipRunabout2 that particular Ford 3.5 V6 duratec without the turbos is a great engine
@@MidshipRunabout2 It's a fact turbos put a lot of extra stress on motors.
Other than the internal water pump problem.@@wondermaid6452
I have the ford flex, same car different body. I've replaced both turbos, one cat, timing set and water pump. Over ten thousand in repairs but it runs great now and I love driving it so worth it to me.
Hell of a good way to start my day! With a video from the Wizard!
Agree!
Start the day? It's already afternoon
@@w.e.s. not for some people who bust their behinds working overnights
I can't wait to see Car Wizard's inspection of Hoovie's **blue** Bugatti.
It’s literally blue.
thought Hoovie's new Bugatti was black/blue?
These engines make it seem easy, but there is a lot going on in a direct injected turbo. IMO the problem is the customer is demanding 400 horsepower when it doesn't really need half that. Engines could be simpler and more reliable. But you can't measure reliability on the new car lot. You can compare horsepower and fuel milage. Combine that with some emission numbers to hit and some kind of budget boundary and this is what you get. Either do the oil changes on time, keep your foot out of it or don't get a direct injected turbo.