Skinny or columnar specimens will also offer shade to large areas without taking up much foot place . I like to add them for height interest which draws your eye up making the small space seem much larger. They can cast shade or filtered shade for growing other plants in sunny areas that may not tolerate direct sun all day . I missed this episode so just now watching thank you so much I enjoy your videos ❤❤❤❤. Anyone seeing this right now think about how to help all the people in Eastern Tennessee and the Carolinas.
Can you do more species specific for areas like mine in 8a very sandy . My biggest problem is drainage is so quick things dry out faster and i also have to lift many plants even if planted with slope or higher that the soil spreads out and moves away causing many to be to low . Hope this made sense . ❤❤ thanks cutie
Amending the planting site with a few inches of topsoil (including some clay dirt) will help with moisture retention and dilute the amount of sand. Junipers can take drier conditions.
Yes it's possible since it's also a Juniperus virginiana like Eastern Red Cedar. We instead would recommend Columnar Norway Spruce, Degroot's Spire arborvitae, Emerald Green arborvitae, North Pole arborvitae, or Slender Silhouette sweetgum.
They do the same here but it takes quite a while for them to reach that full width, and they also get narrower at the top. Check out Slender Giant Arborvitae! Stays skinnier, 20ft tall, 6ft wide.
I hate the way Emerald Green Arborvitae lead trunk often splits into 2 or 3 leaders. What type Arborvitae has the habit of maintaining a single leader?
Yes! And while we're at it, arborvitae and other coniferous evergreens are not dying in Fall when you see interior foliage turn brown, they're just shedding. If outer parts of the plant start to turn, it could signal a more serious issue, or they're simply being shaded out by a competing plant.
emerald green arborvite have a tendency to branch at the base. This means that they are clusters of the columnar form. They get wide when this happens. You can cut the branching off but then you end up with a misshapen form. I am removing a hedge of them after 15 years because of this. They look awful.
"North Pole" arborvitae have a better tendency of developing a single leader and reach a similar size, they would be a good substitute if one doesn't want the multiple leaders. Green Giant are also great single leader trees but do get bigger. This comment does bring up a good point of studying the stem of the arborvitae one is selecting for branching habit.
My interest is in a privacy screen. My 6 foot wooden privacy fence is not sufficient for my hostile neighbor. She has a raised back deck that gives her a view of my garden. She peers at me through the narrow gaps in the fence. She cranks up her radio full blast when she sees me working outdoors. She throws her trash over the fence into my yard and curses at me. I live Northwest Indiana in zone 6a. I've been admiring White Pillar rose of sharon by Proven Winners but am not certain it will be dense enough to block her view at a 3 foot spacing. The row will need to thrive in dappled sunlight but at least the row will line up north to south so all plants will get an equal share of light throughout the day. I will need at least a dozen plants and mean to acquire most of them through propagation since I have fixed income. Oh and I am 70 so I need a plant that won't need a decade to grow 10 feet tall. I prefer foliage in the silvery green or blue range as opposed to the yellow greens. Advise please?
This is not legal advice and we as a company are not licensed to represent or advise, and do not know the laws of the place you live: If talking to your neighbor about your grievances has failed, you might should look into serving them some kind of official cease and desist notice. Consider also extending the height of your existing fence as a faster option. Plants are a great privacy solution, however most of them will either have to be planted at a very mature size, or they will take 3-5 years to get above your fence line. If you're trying to propagate the plants, then at least double that time for a small cutting to reach mature size. The shady conditions you describe will also make most screening plants less dense than if they were planted in full sun. Some native Junipers might work, and you might have luck with Western Arborvitae and/or Emerald Green Arborvitae which can take partial sun. Another plant to consider won't be skinny, but is very big and tough, cheap, evergreen silvery green foliage, faster growing, and can handle part sun: Silverberry or Eleagnus. Best of luck.
For skinny, Taylor juniper. It was discovered in Nebraska, so still US native. Best bets for Illinois native evergreens are Eastern Red Cedar and Northern White Cedar.
Very helpful you are great to listen to Thank you
Nice list- enjoyed it, and all the detail you went into! Very interesting.
Skinny or columnar specimens will also offer shade to large areas without taking up much foot place . I like to add them for height interest which draws your eye up making the small space seem much larger. They can cast shade or filtered shade for growing other plants in sunny areas that may not tolerate direct sun all day . I missed this episode so just now watching thank you so much I enjoy your videos ❤❤❤❤. Anyone seeing this right now think about how to help all the people in Eastern Tennessee and the Carolinas.
Hands down, the best video I’ve come across for columnar trees. Fantastic job!
I would love to know the growing zones for these trees
Thank you! I’ve been looking for narrow deciduous trees and a good overview of a native screen planting. Awesome!
We're so glad to hear you found what you were seeking.
Very helpful. I’m always looking at narrow trees.
The emerald arborvitae remind me of Italian cypress.....just put in 6. They are quite elegant.❤
Taylors are the closest thing to them appearance wise that will survive north of Zone 8/9.
I have most of the evergreens you mentioned. Two that you forgot that I love are Skyrocket Juniper and American Pillar arborvitae.
In your experience, Can you share the difference between Emerald green verses American pillar?
Informative and well structured presentation of interesting trees.
Can you do more species specific for areas like mine in 8a very sandy . My biggest problem is drainage is so quick things dry out faster and i also have to lift many plants even if planted with slope or higher that the soil spreads out and moves away causing many to be to low . Hope this made sense . ❤❤ thanks cutie
Amending the planting site with a few inches of topsoil (including some clay dirt) will help with moisture retention and dilute the amount of sand. Junipers can take drier conditions.
great presentation thank you.
The skinny weeping white pine looks like something out of doctor Seuss
We definitely call them Dr. Seuss trees at the nursery
Green Vase Zelkova is a wide three most likely 30ft or more. You probably meant Musashino Zelkova, it stays about 15ft wide.
What about the Cedar Apple Rust and apples with the Taylor Juniper? Here in Western NC we don’t sell Eastern Red Cedar much.
Yes it's possible since it's also a Juniperus virginiana like Eastern Red Cedar. We instead would recommend Columnar Norway Spruce, Degroot's Spire arborvitae, Emerald Green arborvitae, North Pole arborvitae, or Slender Silhouette sweetgum.
Green giants get 15 feet wide in New York. Why is it that they only get 8 feet wide in Tennessee? I want to plant ones that only get 8 feet wide.
They do the same here but it takes quite a while for them to reach that full width, and they also get narrower at the top. Check out Slender Giant Arborvitae! Stays skinnier, 20ft tall, 6ft wide.
Thank you for this narrow evergreen video. I’m in Alabama, zone 8.
Most of these evergreens should do well in zone 8, make sure to double check the tag!
I’m looking for something slender to plant in the corner of our house that won’t put out expansive roots that will break our irrigation or water pipes
The slender arborvitaes have shallower roots that will work. It's important for any plant not to plant directly on top of irrigation pipes.
I hate the way Emerald Green Arborvitae lead trunk often splits into 2 or 3 leaders. What type Arborvitae has the habit of maintaining a single leader?
"DeGroot's Spire" and "North Pole" have better luck at developing a single leader.
Awesome💯🥰🥰🥰
Prob important to mention that Green Giants turn copperish color in a winter. They're not dead, so don't pull them.
Yes! And while we're at it, arborvitae and other coniferous evergreens are not dying in Fall when you see interior foliage turn brown, they're just shedding. If outer parts of the plant start to turn, it could signal a more serious issue, or they're simply being shaded out by a competing plant.
emerald green arborvite have a tendency to branch at the base. This means that they are clusters of the columnar form. They get wide when this happens. You can cut the branching off but then you end up with a misshapen form. I am removing a hedge of them after 15 years because of this. They look awful.
"North Pole" arborvitae have a better tendency of developing a single leader and reach a similar size, they would be a good substitute if one doesn't want the multiple leaders. Green Giant are also great single leader trees but do get bigger.
This comment does bring up a good point of studying the stem of the arborvitae one is selecting for branching habit.
I was looking into this one but saying this what are your thoughts on a north pole arborvitae surviving in zone 9 louisiana?
@@ricardotenorio3815 not advised, they are a zone 3-8 plant unfortunately and I think LA is a little to warm for that cultivar
My interest is in a privacy screen. My 6 foot wooden privacy fence is not sufficient for my hostile neighbor. She has a raised back deck that gives her a view of my garden. She peers at me through the narrow gaps in the fence. She cranks up her radio full blast when she sees me working outdoors. She throws her trash over the fence into my yard and curses at me. I live Northwest Indiana in zone 6a. I've been admiring White Pillar rose of sharon by Proven Winners but am not certain it will be dense enough to block her view at a 3 foot spacing. The row will need to thrive in dappled sunlight but at least the row will line up north to south so all plants will get an equal share of light throughout the day. I will need at least a dozen plants and mean to acquire most of them through propagation since I have fixed income. Oh and I am 70 so I need a plant that won't need a decade to grow 10 feet tall. I prefer foliage in the silvery green or blue range as opposed to the yellow greens. Advise please?
This is not legal advice and we as a company are not licensed to represent or advise, and do not know the laws of the place you live: If talking to your neighbor about your grievances has failed, you might should look into serving them some kind of official cease and desist notice. Consider also extending the height of your existing fence as a faster option.
Plants are a great privacy solution, however most of them will either have to be planted at a very mature size, or they will take 3-5 years to get above your fence line. If you're trying to propagate the plants, then at least double that time for a small cutting to reach mature size. The shady conditions you describe will also make most screening plants less dense than if they were planted in full sun. Some native Junipers might work, and you might have luck with Western Arborvitae and/or Emerald Green Arborvitae which can take partial sun.
Another plant to consider won't be skinny, but is very big and tough, cheap, evergreen silvery green foliage, faster growing, and can handle part sun: Silverberry or Eleagnus. Best of luck.
Any native evergreens for Illinois?
For skinny, Taylor juniper. It was discovered in Nebraska, so still US native. Best bets for Illinois native evergreens are Eastern Red Cedar and Northern White Cedar.
Show me low quart tree