How To Make A 4 Beam Marking Gauge REED Plnes Kit
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- Kits available here: www.woodbywrig...
How to use a marking gauge: • How To Use a Marking G...
How to make a scratch stock: • Making a Mahogany Scra...
One can never have enough marking gauges, but with a 4 beam marking gauge you can get close. today we are making a 4 beam marking gauge from a REED Planes Kit.
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Saw a marking gauge with cam lever mechanism, would be cool if you could figure out a way to get that into the four beam version.
Beautiful work, James! Fantastic looking marking gauge! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I was thinking some sort of radiator bleeding key type thing that could magnetise to the side of the guage in some fashion. I'd spend approximately 6 days trying to find the allan key every time I wanted to use this!
Lots of opinions regarding hex keys. An easy option is the make slotted set screws from a bolt as a slotted screw driver is usually on the bench.
@@reedplanes728 nah, this is more about me! I lose everything that isn't nailed down. I haven't seen my slotted screwdriver in 6 months, I just tighten my plane blade to the lever cap with my teeth.
Now I feel like I need to make a 10 gauge or a 12 gauge
It's hand plane's I seem to be addicted to !!!
We have hex keys that are like guitar tuning keys that we use to change our fins on our surfboards I'd use something like that rather than a big Allan key or the thumb screws
Mark and drill all your holes for the points while still on the blade so you can clamp the whole saw blade in the vice. Much easier to do before cutting out.
Still didn't hear why all the aluminum. I get the 2 pieces to seperate the beams. The rest seems to be for looks.
The round pisces act as wear blocks so the surface does not wear down too quickly. Tha angles distribute the pressure so that the set screw does not dig into the beam.
I feel like I would like brass for the insets instead of aluminum for the heft. My favorite marking gauge is one from Rob Cosman. It's so heavy from the brass and composite material, which feels excellent in use.
Brass would have been nice but it would have tripled the price.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo can you put a price on love and a great feel in the hand James?
@@zaredshawver9496 yes, three times the cost of the alternative!
You can always source your own brass and make yours unique.
Good morning!
Congrats on first!
I wonder how cost prohibitive it would be to CNC the entire main block from aluminum instead of all the fiddle factor of cutting out pieces of aluminum and putting in the inserts. The end user could always attach wood around the outside for aesthetics and hand feel.
Mornin mista whrighte, here before ya fix the plnes lol
Rube Goldberg called, he wants his marking gauge back.
Thanks for doing metal work! I have a question though….with metal work like this, do you have to worry about metal splinters? Those are so obnoxious that I’ve been afraid of doing much metal work. Any suggestions on minimizing this? Or how to clean up the metal dust?
I do not worth about it at all. Just sweep it off. Especially with aluminum it is no problem at all.
I really hope you or Reed plane get a european distributor at some point (fine-tools would be perfect) :)
We ship over seas.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Yes I know, I bought the replacement yoke and I love it. But on larger and more expensive items, the shipping cost (28$ iirc for the adjuster for example) on top of VAT(20% of cost+shipping cost)+Fees at delivery means it's just too much unfortunately.
Maybe someday someone over there will want to sell them.
Awesome stuff as always!
An unrelated question, if I may: What is the best PVA glue with a long open time+working time? I am planning a glue up of table legs using dominos that will take me some time, and I'd like to be able to position the legs correctly before the glue sets. Epoxy is obviously another option, but in my experience it is more difficult to have a perfect invisible seam with epoxy, even if you cover the joint areas with painters tape, plus it takes longer until I can move the piece, so I'm just exploring my options.
Also, I can't seem to get Titebond Extend glues where I am (Israel), and according to your data, hide glue seems inadequate to me for this context.
Love your channel, watch every video as it is released :)
Thanks!
Urea Formaldehyde Glue has a long open time. it is also called plastic resin glue. It comes in a powder. Not sure how common it is anymore. The other option is to glue up in small sub assemblies.
@@reedplanes728 Thanks so much! It seems like a really strong glue from the spreadsheet, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Gluing it up in small sub assemblies is definitely an option, though I prefer to avoid it if possible because my work is not perfect, so I would rather the whole thing dry up while adhering to the shape of the table top.
So my current options are Titebond 3 in a very well prepared environment and working fast, a good epoxy (I am using system three T-88 for that matter), Titebond hide glue which seems to be weaker than the previous 2 options, and that's about it. I'll keep thinking about it :)
For long open time I go with epoxy. It is a stronger bond too. Some PVA glues have longer open times then others, but not by that much.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you! Yeah I thought so about the PVAs, though the Titebond II Extend got me all excited before I saw I couldn't get it :\
Can I use my broken bandsaw blade?
Sure that will work. I used old sawsall blades
Comment down below. Beam me up
That's a lot of marking.
Cut down the thumb screws to have just a shade more thread than you need and it’ll make handling much better. No need to have 1/2” of extra thumb screw that’ll never be used and will only be in the way.
Even that small it was too big in the hand for me. Some might like it though.
This build reminds me of the old adage regarding why men climb mountains: because they can. Would you hold 4 pencils at once?, this seems to be a novelty, don't think it'll catch on.
I like this project! Did you see John Zhu's offset plate design? It's a clever way to get a constant offset on all your gauge settings, for example to lay out a splayed through-mortise (relying on a constant thickness of the workpiece to get consistent angles). He does this with a Chinese-style four-beam marking gauge, but I imagine it would be even easier to do with the design you cover here.
ua-cam.com/video/-IkgvolZJmE/v-deo.html