The first time I switched out pickups in my strat clone I lined the inside with aluminum foil tape, which I had on hand. The cavity did not have continuity. Sometimes between two side-by side pieces I would get a little signal, but 4 pieces over there was no signal. I ended up taking a sharp screw and poking through the aluminum tape pieces anywhere they overlapped, and that gave me continuity throughout. For me, that was justification enough to pick up a roll of copper tape with conductive adhesive, which gave consistent continuity regardless of number of overlapping connections. Never tried the paint.
Yeah I found that with some tape there would be continuity for a few weeks then there wouldn’t be. So now I usually solder pieces together or fold the top to stick to the bottom then overlap that with another piece so the top that was folded over touches the top of another piece.
I now use graphite based paint. Ultimately easier, less fussy, and takes way less time if you don't count drying time (which I can use to work on something else). Picked up a quart of EZ-Slide graphite based paint, which is enough to last for many, many years.
If you happen to use a wireless jack connector rather than a cable how does this effect things as I presume you won’t have an earth? Great channel, thanks.
I found that with some tape there would be continuity for a few weeks then there wouldn’t be. So now I usually solder pieces together or fold the top to stick to the bottom then overlap that with another piece so the top that was folded over touches the top of another piece.
Hey! May I ask a question? If I've shielded a control cavity do I need to put ground wires in between the pots? Apologies if it's a foolish question, still new to the whole wiring thing
Good video. However, continuity is one thing and yes you want it. Copper however usually has less resistance when you meter it out with a multimeter. That's important.
I don't know. I can't diagnose the problem without the guitar on my workbench. And since I don't do repairs, I can only suggest you try shielding. Just be aware that it could be a multitude of causes.
Does one have to be careful about the holes through which pot shafts push out, does it matter if there is contact between pot and foil at those shaft holes?
Contact is fine. In fact, contact is desired. The only thing to avoid is adding grounding jumpers between the components, which will cause ground loops.
Have you ever removed shielding paint from a cavity? I still got one laying around and I never tried to shield a previously painted cavity. Any idea? I've seen that HVAC tape used by folding a bit over, but if you get connectivity just by overlapping with the glue side, you got a lucky brand. The ones with conductive glue layer have to make sure to reach a certain requirement for industrial usage.
QUESTION: My les paul buzzes until i touch the metal parts (e.g. bridge). I rewired the pots, I shielded the cavity, but the buzz remains. How can i solve this?
@@goncaloveiga I haven’t thought of it in months. Maybe it’s because I moved house and the wiring is different, or because I now use a pod go with an inbuilt noise gate. I’ll check later.
I use both blends now too. I’ve also had the meter on it as well. As far as Pickup shielding, I know it really doesn’t do much as it’s not a complete faraday cage, it makes one feel better that it got doneZ
Yes, there are commercially available Aluminum tape brands with conductive adhesive. Most adhesive formulations are not conductive, by design. As for Aluminum tape versus Copper tape, with tapes of equal thickness, and assuming they aren't highly contaminated metals being used to manufacture the tape, the Aluminum tape is actually slightly more effective than the Copper. It has to do with the physical, chemical, and electromagnetic properties of each metal.
its necesary shield the jack cavity ? superstrats models like schecter have another cavity where jack is located. This hole wasn't be painted, only see wood
@@HighlineGuitars Dear Sir, I am so thankful to You, for all of Your videos You do on Utube, which made my guitar to be build from the scratch. I am in a stage of putting on the final finish and I think It's gonna be very fine. I am building it for my son. Thank You, and keep the good work!
Without seeing the guitar, I can’t say for sure what the problem may be. I would suggest checking the signal path to see if there is any contact with the grounded shielding.
I recently bought a set of Parson Street P90s w/ reverse wound/reverse polarity (RWRP). Should I shield the pickup cavity? Will it nullify the hum cancelling of the RWRP when both pickups are on?
No, that won't cancel out the hum-cancelling effect of having a RWRP set of pickups. Effective shielding is all about having it properly grounded. The pickups all, ultimately, should end up at the same grounding point.
In the case of shielding the cavity of a p90: the pole piece screws protrude a cm or so out of the bottom of the pickup, should they not come into contact with the shielding or can they? Should the metal bottom be treated the same way? Also can I paint (black for aesthetics) over the copper shield and still achieve proper shielding?
Shielding is simply a grounded surface. Since the pole pieces are touching the magnet and the magnet is touching the baseplate and the baseplate is supposed to be grounded, the pole pieces are therefore automatically grounded. If you look at the back of a P90, the lead wiring should include a ground wire or a braided jacket that is soldered to the baseplate in order to ground and thus shield it. The only thing you don't want touching a grounded surface is a bare output signal wire. That would stop the signal.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks that makes sense logically, I just wasn't entirely sure if I was missing something. I couldn't find an answer to that specific question on the net, thank you.
I have an archtop guitar with a Kent Armstrong floating humbucker neck pickup and a volume control. How would I shield this guitar. It has an awful buzz now. Thanks for all of your great information.
First, you need to check the wiring to make sure it's in proper working order. A loose or faulty ground wire could cause a lot of noise. Check the Kent Armstrong website for their wiring schematics.
Hello, I just installed Seymore Duncan Phat Cats in my 76 Explorer. I plan on using your tips to shield. My question is, should I shield the pickup cavity? Technically the Phat Cat is a P90. However, it is covered by a nickel pickup cover.
Neil Banbury there is no need to shield the cavity since the Phat Cat has a nickel silver baseplate an cover which are grounded and therefore shielded.
I bought a role of 3M brand conductive aluminum tape from home depot a few years back and it doesn't conduct well between pieces. If you put a piece down and lay one over the top, it won't conduct. That brand may be better. Also, copper foil tape has recently become pretty cheap, I found a big role for around 13 dollars off ebay a year ago so I have a long ways to go before running out of it.
What worked for me was always to apply a transversal little piece of aluminium tape after a group of paralells pieces, making as additional crossing contact; that way I've was never got continuity issues, and testing it with a multimeter very often.
I’m in Japan for the pandemic. Aluminum foil tape is so common, I can get it at the grocery store, so I’ll try that. I probably already have some. The adhesive thing, I doubt it’s so insulating that it matters at all. Pickup wire is coated to keep each wind from contacting the next, but that a specific nonconducting material. Copper vs aluminum, copper is more expensive and looks golden, but neither contains ferris iron. Aluminum simply is the most common element on Earth. I was thinking of using common aluminum foil, but foil tape is so common where I am, I’ll try that.
I wonder if you just took some super 77, shot it in there, scooped in a lump of iron filings or fe3o4 from a pyro chem supply in, shot the back of the cover and held it on and shook it, then dumped it out and clear coated, if you'd have a cage. tbh foil tape sounds simpler Problem then is, what if you want some hum to liven up the place and let people know there's live music. Inb4 someone makes a hum simulator pedal.
I think skylighter sells 50 mesh steel for like 6 bucks a pound ish. Also some people cage the trem cavity in case the buyer blocks it off and uses it as a battery box or onboard pedal cavity.
I actually just tested my foil tape to see if the adhesive is conductive. Aluminum or commonly called foil tape adhesive is NOT Conductive . Just so you know
I am sorry to say but Why is mij custom build fender completly noisless....no buz or hum. An that whithout any shielding, no copper, no alu ...nothing...on the same system my Les paul standart T 2016..buzz like crazy... its a load of crap...They shut build there f... expancive guitars the right way
![GUITAR SHIELDING 101: A [Relatively] Quick Guide to Working with Foil Tape](/img/n.gif)
Honestly was curious the purpose of the aluminum wrap and honestly best vid I've found
It worked. I bought some cheap aluminium tape from Amazon - it didn't say conductive adhesive.
The sparkling frizzle sound is gone now.
Thanks, Chris! I suspected the same. I will check continuity across before buttoning it up.
finally i understand everything about ground in guitar..... good video mann......
yes there is conductive adhesive tape. on the inside of the roll it will say electrical. I work in the electronic industry I know this for a fact.
shocking ~
The first time I switched out pickups in my strat clone I lined the inside with aluminum foil tape, which I had on hand. The cavity did not have continuity. Sometimes between two side-by side pieces I would get a little signal, but 4 pieces over there was no signal. I ended up taking a sharp screw and poking through the aluminum tape pieces anywhere they overlapped, and that gave me continuity throughout. For me, that was justification enough to pick up a roll of copper tape with conductive adhesive, which gave consistent continuity regardless of number of overlapping connections. Never tried the paint.
Put a small strip of aluminum tape face down to connect the pieces of foil tape, and tape it down on each side.
Yeah I found that with some tape there would be continuity for a few weeks then there wouldn’t be. So now I usually solder pieces together or fold the top to stick to the bottom then overlap that with another piece so the top that was folded over touches the top of another piece.
I now use graphite based paint. Ultimately easier, less fussy, and takes way less time if you don't count drying time (which I can use to work on something else). Picked up a quart of EZ-Slide graphite based paint, which is enough to last for many, many years.
Good instruction video..
I'M doing 84 Tele tomorrow thanks for the help...!!!
Great, nice and clear. I'm getting ready to do my Les Paul, this will help. Thanks a lot.
Dave in the Adirondacks 🤠🎸
If you happen to use a wireless jack connector rather than a cable how does this effect things as I presume you won’t have an earth? Great channel, thanks.
Ahh great question this needs more answers
Run a ground wire from the mains socket to a metal plate on the floor, play guitar with the socks off? :)
I found that with some tape there would be continuity for a few weeks then there wouldn’t be. So now I usually solder pieces together or fold the top to stick to the bottom then overlap that with another piece so the top that was folded over touches the top of another piece.
Gorgeous neck.
Hey! May I ask a question? If I've shielded a control cavity do I need to put ground wires in between the pots? Apologies if it's a foolish question, still new to the whole wiring thing
Good video. However, continuity is one thing and yes you want it. Copper however usually has less resistance when you meter it out with a multimeter. That's important.
I always found that grounding the bridge .to be more important than shielding . the strings need a solid ground.
Excuse my ignorance how do you do that? On strats i am assuming the back wire next to the springs? But on the other designs? Thank you
@@0000song0000 you have a small hole under the bridge plate where the wire from the electronics cavity comes in contact with a screw, let's say
I like your videos, thank you, you've helped me a lot :)
great 👍 idea with the cover!
Better than copper is tinned copper tape. It avoids oxidation
Hello I have just purchased a 1997 Epiphone lp special . It has feedback issues and other unwanted sounds . Would shielding solve this . Thanks.
I don't know. I can't diagnose the problem without the guitar on my workbench. And since I don't do repairs, I can only suggest you try shielding. Just be aware that it could be a multitude of causes.
Thanks for that.
Does one have to be careful about the holes through which pot shafts push out, does it matter if there is contact between pot and foil at those shaft holes?
Contact is fine. In fact, contact is desired. The only thing to avoid is adding grounding jumpers between the components, which will cause ground loops.
There ARE actual conductive adhesives. I work with wire EDM, and some small, hard to hold parts are glued with a special conductive glue.
Did you use self-leveling frets?
Hi thank you for another great helpful tip, Cheers
Have you ever removed shielding paint from a cavity? I still got one laying around and I never tried to shield a previously painted cavity. Any idea?
I've seen that HVAC tape used by folding a bit over, but if you get connectivity just by overlapping with the glue side, you got a lucky brand.
The ones with conductive glue layer have to make sure to reach a certain requirement for industrial usage.
By doing so you also create a capacitor.
QUESTION: My les paul buzzes until i touch the metal parts (e.g. bridge). I rewired the pots, I shielded the cavity, but the buzz remains. How can i solve this?
Check to make sure your bridge/stoptail is grounded. There should be a wire coming into your control cavity from the direction of the bridge.
Did you find a solution to the buzz? I’m in the same boat.
@@goncaloveiga I haven’t thought of it in months. Maybe it’s because I moved house and the wiring is different, or because I now use a pod go with an inbuilt noise gate. I’ll check later.
@@chrisparker5278 I also have the same problem. Will appreciate any info!
Sometimes a cold/bad ground solder joint on the input jack can cause that. Also a bad input jack will too
I use both blends now too. I’ve also had the meter on it as well. As far as Pickup shielding, I know it really doesn’t do much as it’s not a complete faraday cage, it makes one feel better that it got doneZ
I can't find this anywhere. Which part of the circuit do you connect the shield to ground? Does gauge of the wire matter?
You simply solder one end of a wire to the ground lug on the jack and the other end to the shielding. 18-22awg is fine.
Yes, there are commercially available Aluminum tape brands with conductive adhesive. Most adhesive formulations are not conductive, by design.
As for Aluminum tape versus Copper tape, with tapes of equal thickness, and assuming they aren't highly contaminated metals being used to manufacture the tape, the Aluminum tape is actually slightly more effective than the Copper. It has to do with the physical, chemical, and electromagnetic properties of each metal.
its necesary shield the jack cavity ? superstrats models like schecter have another cavity where jack is located. This hole wasn't be painted, only see wood
No. Shielding only protects components that are not grounded. The jack is grounded.
I going to shield my LP should I upgrade the wires that run to the switch cavity to make sure they are shielded wires?
Any recommendations for grounding an electric guitar
( Firebird style body ) made from steel?
I’m using mojo tone mini humbuckers
Hi, I have a question. Do I have to connect a ground wire to the bridge on my SG model, if I do the shielding? Thanx
Yes.
@@HighlineGuitars Dear Sir,
I am so thankful to You, for all of Your videos You do on Utube, which made my guitar to be build from the scratch. I am in a stage of putting on the final finish and I think It's gonna be very fine. I am building it for my son. Thank You, and keep the good work!
Why do all the polish luthiers solder the capacitive tape seams together?
I followed this video to a tee and now I have no out put can you please help me thank you
Without seeing the guitar, I can’t say for sure what the problem may be. I would suggest checking the signal path to see if there is any contact with the grounded shielding.
@@HighlineGuitars I figured it out simple output jack issue thank you for your time
Great tips... hey Chris, did you see Harbor Freight has a new more professional hvlp paint gun now? A review would be great..!!
I'd like to shield my house from wifi, EMF & RF but it sure would take alot of tape, Can I tape up my smart meter?
Nashua makes a couple different kinds of foil tape, which do you use?
I recently bought a set of Parson Street P90s w/ reverse wound/reverse polarity (RWRP). Should I shield the pickup cavity? Will it nullify the hum cancelling of the RWRP when both pickups are on?
No, that won't cancel out the hum-cancelling effect of having a RWRP set of pickups. Effective shielding is all about having it properly grounded. The pickups all, ultimately, should end up at the same grounding point.
In the case of shielding the cavity of a p90: the pole piece screws protrude a cm or so out of the bottom of the pickup, should they not come into contact with the shielding or can they? Should the metal bottom be treated the same way? Also can I paint (black for aesthetics) over the copper shield and still achieve proper shielding?
Shielding is simply a grounded surface. Since the pole pieces are touching the magnet and the magnet is touching the baseplate and the baseplate is supposed to be grounded, the pole pieces are therefore automatically grounded. If you look at the back of a P90, the lead wiring should include a ground wire or a braided jacket that is soldered to the baseplate in order to ground and thus shield it. The only thing you don't want touching a grounded surface is a bare output signal wire. That would stop the signal.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks that makes sense logically, I just wasn't entirely sure if I was missing something. I couldn't find an answer to that specific question on the net, thank you.
I have an archtop guitar with a Kent Armstrong floating humbucker neck pickup and a volume control. How would I shield this guitar. It has an awful buzz now. Thanks for all of your great information.
First, you need to check the wiring to make sure it's in proper working order. A loose or faulty ground wire could cause a lot of noise. Check the Kent Armstrong website for their wiring schematics.
Great Thank you. I will look on their site.
Hello, I just installed Seymore Duncan Phat Cats in my 76 Explorer. I plan on using your tips to shield. My question is, should I shield the pickup cavity? Technically the Phat Cat is a P90. However, it is covered by a nickel pickup cover.
Neil Banbury there is no need to shield the cavity since the Phat Cat has a nickel silver baseplate an cover which are grounded and therefore shielded.
I bought a role of 3M brand conductive aluminum tape from home depot a few years back and it doesn't conduct well between pieces. If you put a piece down and lay one over the top, it won't conduct. That brand may be better. Also, copper foil tape has recently become pretty cheap, I found a big role for around 13 dollars off ebay a year ago so I have a long ways to go before running out of it.
What worked for me was always to apply a transversal little piece of aluminium tape after a group of paralells pieces, making as additional crossing contact; that way I've was never got continuity issues, and testing it with a multimeter very often.
Could you make video about how you work with cnc?
I’m in Japan for the pandemic. Aluminum foil tape is so common, I can get it at the grocery store, so I’ll try that. I probably already have some.
The adhesive thing, I doubt it’s so insulating that it matters at all. Pickup wire is coated to keep each wind from contacting the next, but that a specific nonconducting material.
Copper vs aluminum, copper is more expensive and looks golden, but neither contains ferris iron. Aluminum simply is the most common element on Earth.
I was thinking of using common aluminum foil, but foil tape is so common where I am, I’ll try that.
I wonder if you just took some super 77, shot it in there, scooped in a lump of iron filings or fe3o4 from a pyro chem supply in, shot the back of the cover and held it on and shook it, then dumped it out and clear coated, if you'd have a cage.
tbh foil tape sounds simpler
Problem then is, what if you want some hum to liven up the place and let people know there's live music. Inb4 someone makes a hum simulator pedal.
I think skylighter sells 50 mesh steel for like 6 bucks a pound ish.
Also some people cage the trem cavity in case the buyer blocks it off and uses it as a battery box or onboard pedal cavity.
SOmeone on reddit is telling me it would be pointless to shield my js2 cause the jpick up is single coil and the hum will forever be there...
Reddit? That should tell you something.
@@HighlineGuitars I know right.. lol its clear as day where the pros are at :)
Is there any point in shielding if my house is not grounded?
Your house is grounded
I actually just tested my foil tape to see if the adhesive is conductive. Aluminum or commonly called foil tape adhesive is NOT Conductive . Just so you know
That's why I rub off a tiny section of the adhesive where it overlaps.
Silly quetion: how the conductive "shield" does not turn into an antenna? Thank you
It has to be grounded.
Its a faraday cage
Don’t waste foil.
Copper looks cooler though.
I am sorry to say but Why is mij custom build fender completly noisless....no buz or hum. An that whithout any shielding, no copper, no alu ...nothing...on the same system my Les paul standart T 2016..buzz like crazy... its a load of crap...They shut build there f... expancive guitars the right way
Why bother with the control cavity do the pots buzz lol
They are part of the electronic signal path and are susceptible to picking up unwanted, external noises.
"lol"? I fail to see the humor in your post.
Buy zexcoil pickups, skip the shielding, and be done with it