👍🏻 If you decide to repair the pump I recommend globing RTV or JB WELD over those factory sealed ports that may have a cracked O ring inside (even if pump is good or fixed this could still give you a code if it loses vacuum from cracked o rings).
@@thebestengines1413 Thanks! Looked at it last night and it looks like this was what I need, ordering the part and a new canister too cause Mine seems like it has a large crack in it. I think I must have hit something and caused some damage and that caused this issue.
does this problem cause the engine to shutter like it wants to stall? i have evap codes across the board and its not my purge valve or charcoal canister as it has been replaced recently.
The ziptie will not provide enough tension around entire perimeter to deal the deal enough for vacuum to work. I stead, apply some cheap 100% silicon and ziptie on top of that. Silicon can be removed if needed to open the case again and it will provide superior air tightness.
Does this issue affects the car performance because I have all this codes but the car runs perfectly fine and the mpg is still the same so I'm good there too and I recently pass the smog check because after erasing the codes the check engine light doesn't comeback for a whole week so I'm not in a hurry to fix it but eventually I will I got another 2 years before the next smog test so my question is if performance is still great and mpg still normal do I need to fix this soon ???
you can put it off as it don’t impact performance- at some point your pump will stop working intermittently as you mentioned and the codes won’t pass smog testing- there are some tricks ( you can google) keeping monitor from running but it’s not a fix .
I have an 08 Tundra that I’ve driven w this issue for probably 3 years. Originally, I changed the gas cap and cleared the codes and it went off for over a month. Then cleaned the fuel and same. After that I, I got busy and forgot (as well as got used to the light). I’ve had no issues. Also, that damn light never burned out. Haha!
@@arnodivalentin5639 the simple scan tool shown in video had basic (mode $08) control - unit made noise when command sent. He sold car almost 3 years later with no EVAP codes so pump motor was working 👍🏻
@@thebestengines1413 I just took my old one apart to see what was wrong with, and thanks to your video, i was able to take apart mine without damaging it. Sure enough when i applied volage motor did not turn, butwhen i took off the 3 phillips screws bang the motor start turning. But i noticed the vanes seem to be stuck, they are not spreading outward with the centrifugical force.
@ Yes in the video I mentioned what I thought was carbon build up from the pump wearing out causing this - or it could be that over time carbon fragments from the EVAP canister is seeping by the intake filter and contaminating the impeller. If you decide to clean it up and reuse your old pump post back your results- thanks.
so you only changed the vapor leak detection pump? what year corolla did you do? im pretty sure it should be the same for my camry i just need to confirm it was from 2007-2011
@@thebestengines1413. The weird thing on my 2008 corolla is that after I erase the codes with my scanner after I drive my car for a few hours I come home at night and the only incomplete monitor is the evap but the next morning everything is green again all monitors are completed and normally it takes a whole week before the engine light comes back on, that actually helped me when I smog the car because everything was fine at that moment lol 😆 but light comes back on after a week so I'm just guessing that the pump is already starting to fail but sometimes it actually still works because it takes at least a week before the check engine light comes back again, but now I'm more convinced that it is the leak detection pump and not the whole canister, autozone has it for 250 dollars but I will get it from the dealership I'm pretty sure it won't be that much expensive.
So can you purchase the pump separately from the Toyota dealership, and when all this 5 codes come on it doesn't necessarily mean that it needs the whole evap canister ? Also if I purchase the whole Evap canister is the pump included or is it a separate part ? I just got this codes yesterday and my 2008 runs great so I don't mind paying over 400 dollars for the canister at the dealership but if the pump is the actual problem then I'll probably have to replace that too.
Yes- we got pump only because canister with pump was triple the price and those codes were pump related so didn’t need canister- codes never came back after pump replacement. Good luck.
@@thebestengines1413. But does the Toyota dealership sell the pump by itself ? I know the evap canister is a little more than 400 dollars but I can buy the pump only from dealership better than getting it from Amazon or ebay or a cheap aftermarket that might not last.
@@thebestengines1413 . There's a video here on UA-cam this guy bought the whole evap canister for a little more than 400 and it was an oem Toyota part, but if the dealership sells the pump for less than 200 I'm OK with that my 2008 practically runs perfect, zero leaks it only had one owner when I bought it 2 years ago it was very well maintained and even at 175 thousand miles is difficult to find a 2008 Toyota corolla at the dealerships for less than 9000 dollars It suppose to be one of the best years I'm planning to keep it until it reaches 400 thousand miles it has the potential to last me that long that's why I don't mind paying more for OEM parts. I erased the codes already I'm just waiting for the monitors to be completed and if the check engine light comes on then I'll decide what to do, I had nothing but old Toyotas the past 10 years and is weird There's been a few times that the check engine light comes on but is a false alarm after I have erased the codes, it never came back again, specially with codes related to running lean, or oxygen sensor related but we'll see what happens with this one I'm just glad that is very easy to get to, the 1998 camry is a little more of a pain to replace, this one looks pretty easy anyways thanks again.
Hi there, recently got same errors. But as I understand there is no separately sold pump at the dealership. You have purchase full assembly with canister. Or if you don’t mind could you share part number of the pump. I have Corolla S 2010
Thank You, I like to dissect mine but you showed it
already in the video and I was able to test mine.
Thank you so much for the detailed explanation! I think this helped me on a direction to try to diagnose my Scion!
👍🏻 If you decide to repair the pump I recommend globing RTV or JB WELD over those factory sealed ports that may have a cracked O ring inside (even if pump is good or fixed this could still give you a code if it loses vacuum from cracked o rings).
@@thebestengines1413 Thanks! Looked at it last night and it looks like this was what I need, ordering the part and a new canister too cause Mine seems like it has a large crack in it. I think I must have hit something and caused some damage and that caused this issue.
Thanks so much for taking your time out and posting this video.
Thank you so so much I had check engine light with the same 5 codes error, and after I fixed this part no check engine light any more 👍👍👍
how did you fix the motor or the vanes in side the housing?
does this problem cause the engine to shutter like it wants to stall?
i have evap codes across the board and its not my purge valve or charcoal canister as it has been replaced recently.
The ziptie will not provide enough tension around entire perimeter to deal the deal enough for vacuum to work.
I stead, apply some cheap 100% silicon and ziptie on top of that.
Silicon can be removed if needed to open the case again and it will provide superior air tightness.
Thanks for honest suggestions!
For what car was that I need one for a 2008 toyota hylander hybrid but I can't find one
Would a canister code come up for this part failing
Does this issue affects the car performance because I have all this codes but the car runs perfectly fine and the mpg is still the same so I'm good there too and I recently pass the smog check because after erasing the codes the check engine light doesn't comeback for a whole week so I'm not in a hurry to fix it but eventually I will I got another 2 years before the next smog test so my question is if performance is still great and mpg still normal do I need to fix this soon ???
you can put it off as it don’t impact performance- at some point your pump will stop working intermittently as you mentioned and the codes won’t pass smog testing- there are some tricks ( you can google) keeping monitor from running but it’s not a fix .
I have an 08 Tundra that I’ve driven w this issue for probably 3 years. Originally, I changed the gas cap and cleared the codes and it went off for over a month. Then cleaned the fuel and same. After that I, I got busy and forgot (as well as got used to the light). I’ve had no issues. Also, that damn light never burned out. Haha!
how did you know the pump was working after replacing it, if you don't have a scan tool that can activate the pump?
@@arnodivalentin5639 the simple scan tool shown in video had basic (mode $08) control - unit made noise when command sent. He sold car almost 3 years later with no EVAP codes so pump motor was working 👍🏻
@@thebestengines1413 I just took my old one apart to see what was wrong with, and thanks to your video, i was able to take apart mine without damaging it. Sure enough when i applied volage motor did not turn, butwhen i took off the 3 phillips screws bang the motor start turning. But i noticed the vanes seem to be stuck, they are not spreading outward with the centrifugical force.
@ Yes in the video I mentioned what I thought was carbon build up from the pump wearing out causing this - or it could be that over time carbon fragments from the EVAP canister is seeping by the intake filter and contaminating the impeller. If you decide to clean it up and reuse your old pump post back your results- thanks.
Where is this pump located?0
I have this code in my car p2402 I need to replace new one 😢
Hi, I have the code p2420 code on my 2014 Rav4. What do you recommend as the solution?
Google it
@@northwestrepair solved 4 months ago
@@ssgi4in1 what was the solution?
@@uhhTabby I changed the leak detection pump and since then no code
What are the part numbers on the small DC motor? Perhaps only it needs replacement.
Can I leave the codes
so you only changed the vapor leak detection pump? what year corolla did you do? im pretty sure it should be the same for my camry i just need to confirm it was from 2007-2011
Yes- car is 2009 & pump change only fixed it and codes never came back👍🏻.
@@thebestengines1413. The weird thing on my 2008 corolla is that after I erase the codes with my scanner after I drive my car for a few hours I come home at night and the only incomplete monitor is the evap but the next morning everything is green again all monitors are completed and normally it takes a whole week before the engine light comes back on, that actually helped me when I smog the car because everything was fine at that moment lol 😆 but light comes back on after a week so I'm just guessing that the pump is already starting to fail but sometimes it actually still works because it takes at least a week before the check engine light comes back again, but now I'm more convinced that it is the leak detection pump and not the whole canister, autozone has it for 250 dollars but I will get it from the dealership I'm pretty sure it won't be that much expensive.
So can you purchase the pump separately from the Toyota dealership, and when all this 5 codes come on it doesn't necessarily mean that it needs the whole evap canister ? Also if I purchase the whole Evap canister is the pump included or is it a separate part ? I just got this codes yesterday and my 2008 runs great so I don't mind paying over 400 dollars for the canister at the dealership but if the pump is the actual problem then I'll probably have to replace that too.
Yes- we got pump only because canister with pump was triple the price and those codes were pump related so didn’t need canister- codes never came back after pump replacement. Good luck.
@@thebestengines1413. But does the Toyota dealership sell the pump by itself ? I know the evap canister is a little more than 400 dollars but I can buy the pump only from dealership better than getting it from Amazon or ebay or a cheap aftermarket that might not last.
@@awakeandalive4248 seems to me it should be common part from dealer. As you mentioned just be prepared to pay more .
@@thebestengines1413 . There's a video here on UA-cam this guy bought the whole evap canister for a little more than 400 and it was an oem Toyota part, but if the dealership sells the pump for less than 200 I'm OK with that my 2008 practically runs perfect, zero leaks it only had one owner when I bought it 2 years ago it was very well maintained and even at 175 thousand miles is difficult to find a 2008 Toyota corolla at the dealerships for less than 9000 dollars It suppose to be one of the best years I'm planning to keep it until it reaches 400 thousand miles it has the potential to last me that long that's why I don't mind paying more for OEM parts. I erased the codes already I'm just waiting for the monitors to be completed and if the check engine light comes on then I'll decide what to do, I had nothing but old Toyotas the past 10 years and is weird There's been a few times that the check engine light comes on but is a false alarm after I have erased the codes, it never came back again, specially with codes related to running lean, or oxygen sensor related but we'll see what happens with this one I'm just glad that is very easy to get to, the 1998 camry is a little more of a pain to replace, this one looks pretty easy anyways thanks again.
Can i have part number please
I got a canister code so I replaced it and the check engine light came back on with the same code
Purge valve or gas cap
Hi there, recently got same errors. But as I understand there is no separately sold pump at the dealership. You have purchase full assembly with canister. Or if you don’t mind could you share part number of the pump. I have Corolla S 2010
Part number for pump should of been mentioned in video- if not the one we used to replace OEM pump was part # 4B1707 by WVE vehicle electronics.
That is not true - the pumps are sold individually, as well as part of purchasing an entire assembly.
U have this code in my car p2402
So i need to replace new one 😢