This is a very comprehensive download Ron thank you. A tremendously detailed post and very educational in terms of the LR32, KISS, jigs, standardisation, systematic working... the list goes on 👍
I am new to building cabinets but I like this and the repeatability, I had planned to buy the lr32 but would be very interested in you plans and hope you would do a video showing the final version for both front and back holes so I could follow your hole process
Wow, I'm in for the plans. You solved all my hang ups with the L32. Also can you add a section on your tweeks to the 32mm system on your wisdom whys. It's good to learn other perspectives to add to our tool boxes. Jim
I have the LR32 system, but like you, I found the system takes a lot of time to setup and setup and setup. I would really like to see a set of plans. Thanks
Yes!!! I have quite a bit of experience with the lr32, this solves the two major flaws. Using a modified 32mm system for inset face frame cabinets (I use the Dave Ler system) Then removing the stop rails. There is a lot of opportunities for them too become out of whack when doing a bigger job. This would be a great product for you to develop with TSO and create a machined aluminum version! Great work 💪
I saw your previous video and I've been working on a 3d printed version of this jig, it's basically a wider version of the stops that come with the kit (with all of the 9.5, 16 and 32mm offsets) for the larger surface area, extensions that screw onto the stops with a rule, and then stop blocks that screw onto the extensions that reference the board. I'm also incorporating a sawtooth alignment surface between the stops and the extensions so it'll always align exactly to the millimeter
@@mcfrmedic I'd be happy to share the STLs for it if it's okay with Ron since it's kind of a copy, the one thing I'm puzzling through is how to support the 38mm offsets as well since the KISS system looks intriguing
Excellent thought process. I'm an amateur in the sense that I don't do wood work for a living but I find your excursion enlightening. For my part I do not have the Festool system, so it may be somewhat moot to have your plywood plans, but I find them intriguing.
Great idea, I have the LR32 and have made something much simpler when I was doing 20+ sides. I would buy plans if you make them, this is much nicer than the one I made.
Yes, yes and yes. Please do a video on the plus 6mm thing that fixes issues I have the LR 32 system and like it very much but likely do not know the issues you alluded to.
We put up a short earlier today announcing the plans are in the store. They have already proven to be a hit! Tomorrow's video is an 18-minute companion build video. stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/index.php
Interested in the plans. I'm wondering for large projects if it'd be worth it to make fixed distance versions instead of an adjustable one to ensure that nothing changes during use. The front measure will always remain the same, and then the back measurement will likely be the same across all lowers.
Thank you for educating me on the 32 mm system! I have been wondering about the difference between metric and standard cabinet measurements after watching how Timothy Wilmot built his shop cabinets and used 5mm euroscrews to attach the drawer slides. I am interested in your system, even tho I don't have the Festool track (yet) - wanting to build cabinetry for my shop and for friends - this looks ideal!
I just bought an LR32 track and have not used it yet (need to buy the router). I will buy your plans. I already bought and built your latest-gen Smart Bench. TY!
It is also worth mentioning, that in addition to making this system work more efficiently, you would only need to order the LR32 guide plate ($155) and the Festool 5mm bit ($39); instead of the $595 set.
I'd love to have access to the plans! In my case I'd have to work up a conversion to the M18 fuel plunge base and ToolCurve base adapter, can't afford this particular tool yet.
So does this setup always center out the system holes to sides that aren’t 32mm equal Meaning tops and bottoms for side will not matter I’m very interested in this Thanks Ron
I am not sure if I understand you question? The jig creates a balanced panel so there is no top, bottom, right, or left.stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/paulk-smart-lr32-jig-pslrjig-p32.php
What about a CNC-cut router template made of plywood or acrylic? Would that be just as dependable? I imagine the tolerances don't need to be that tight since even a CNC won't be perfect and the wood would move a bit anyway after the bench is made. And standard machining tolerances for metal are within 0.005". Festool doesn't offer any tolerance specifications, even when asked, about their MFT tops. I was told that they don't have any tolerance guarantees on-file when I asked. So I imagine that as long as you can fixture the template securely and index using a few bench dogs and/or dowel pins, you'd be in great shape.
If I went down the LR 32 path I think it I would go with the Festool system. I have seen Sedgetool do the setup and it seemed easy. Have been more than happy with my smart bench but not so sure that this is a necessity.
Hey Ron. been watching your videos for quite some time..I bought your plans for trailer buildout. Love it...made a modification on drawer slide which worked well. I was thinking of buying the LR 32 system. Like what you said....just drill all the holes! I would consider buying your upgraded design..... Do you think you could use the LR 32 to make the MFT top?
I have the LR32 rail and combined it with a ToolCurve adapter for my DeWalt router and found it to be a truly frustrating experience. I'm sure if I was exactly following the "rules" of the system and had a bunch of identical panels to drill it would make sense, but I was fitting a cabinet to a particular space. I didn't even know about the 32 mm system at the time, just made the measurements based on the space available. The panels aren't really deep enough to accommodate the rail, so I had to add additional support just to put the rail on because it's unnecessarily wide for its purpose. I wanted to do a face frame with space on the top and bottom for lighting, so that made it more complicated. It's divided into 3 sections (but all one big unit), so there are two internal dividers that aren't the same height as the two sides (or the same depth because of the back panel), so again I can't just plop the rail on those and have it work. At the end of the day, it wound up being faster, easier, and significantly cheaper to just use a Kreg jig. It's amazing to me that such an expensive setup should only work in very, very specific circumstances, which is that you have to have all panels exactly the same size (no internal dividers), all exactly based on the 32 mm system, and the panels have to be deep enough to accommodate the width of the rail. Your system seems to solve at least some of those problems, which makes it a much better solution overall. Would definitely love to see plans.
Nice setup, Ron. Would this work using the portable DeWalt/ Makita router with the aftermarket adapter for those smaller routers, assuming we already have the LR32 track?
I have the kit but i have never used it. I was learning how to use it and was setting it but then saw that I needed a 12mm collet. By the time I had got the collet but I have never got to try again.
Sign me up! My investment in the LR 32 system several years ago is just collecting dust. Still not quite sure how your system will work on longer sides, such as bookcases that go to the ceiling.
System holes are system holes. It works the same on bases, uppers, pantries, and bookcases. The sides are ALWAYS a multiple of 32 + 6. You will need a longer track or multiple tracks joined, but the position in from the ends never changes.
The LR32 manual shows you how to join two LR32 rails together. The outermost holes are about 12mm on center away from the edge of the rail, so there will be a slight gap between the rails. You insert your normal rail connecting bars in the two slots, then you space the rails using the included stop block that attach to the rail, using the side marked 16. Once the rail connectors are tightened, you can remove the stop block to regain access to the 32mm holes where it was attached.
This is a very comprehensive download Ron thank you. A tremendously detailed post and very educational in terms of the LR32, KISS, jigs, standardisation, systematic working... the list goes on 👍
I am new to building cabinets but I like this and the repeatability, I had planned to buy the lr32 but would be very interested in you plans and hope you would do a video showing the final version for both front and back holes so I could follow your hole process
Wow, I'm in for the plans. You solved all my hang ups with the L32. Also can you add a section on your tweeks to the 32mm system on your wisdom whys. It's good to learn other perspectives to add to our tool boxes.
Jim
Inventive and creative as always Ron. I’ll definitely be looking out for the plans. Thank you for sharing. 👍🏻
I have the LR32 system, but like you, I found the system takes a lot of time to setup and setup and setup. I would really like to see a set of plans. Thanks
Yes!!! I have quite a bit of experience with the lr32, this solves the two major flaws. Using a modified 32mm system for inset face frame cabinets (I use the Dave Ler system) Then removing the stop rails. There is a lot of opportunities for them too become out of whack when doing a bigger job.
This would be a great product for you to develop with TSO and create a machined aluminum version! Great work 💪
Yes this!!! 👌
Thumbs up on the Kiss II system and the jig plans!
Kiss ll is foolproof!
Yes, nice throughly developed (4 iterations!) plans would be nice. Thanks.
I saw your previous video and I've been working on a 3d printed version of this jig, it's basically a wider version of the stops that come with the kit (with all of the 9.5, 16 and 32mm offsets) for the larger surface area, extensions that screw onto the stops with a rule, and then stop blocks that screw onto the extensions that reference the board. I'm also incorporating a sawtooth alignment surface between the stops and the extensions so it'll always align exactly to the millimeter
I’d be interested in seeing that product as well.😊
That sounds great, would love to see this
@@mcfrmedic I'd be happy to share the STLs for it if it's okay with Ron since it's kind of a copy, the one thing I'm puzzling through is how to support the 38mm offsets as well since the KISS system looks intriguing
Very useful for USA and European carpenters. These are plans I would buy.
Oh yes Ron we want the plans.
Oh. Heqq. Yes.
As always, well developed and well explained.
Brilliant.
Glad you liked it!
I’m interested in a set of plans.
I'll order one. Thanks.
I'm not a cabinet builder by trade, but I do Ave aspirations of building my own. I really appreciate your hard work in developing innovations.
Yes, I would be interested in the plans and even more interested in purchasing a finished set
Interested in the plans as well
I'm in for the plans Ron.
Hi Ron, would love to see plans for this!
One more "yes" for the plan
Done! stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/paulk-smart-lr32-jig-pslrjig-p32.php
Yes, this sounds like an improvement on the LR32.
Plans please
If you are doing inset doors do you just add the door thickness to the the 37mm for the front holes?
I’d be interested in getting a set of plans. Thanks
I have the LR32 system and would buy the plans. $5 for that would be the best 5 bucks I've spent in a long time. Thanks.
Agree regarding the setup woes. Yes on the plan 🙂
I would be glad to purchase the download.
Excellent thought process. I'm an amateur in the sense that I don't do wood work for a living but I find your excursion enlightening. For my part I do not have the Festool system, so it may be somewhat moot to have your plywood plans, but I find them intriguing.
yes to the plans and what is blue square?
Great idea, I have the LR32 and have made something much simpler when I was doing 20+ sides. I would buy plans if you make them, this is much nicer than the one I made.
Yes, yes and yes.
Please do a video on the plus 6mm thing that fixes issues
I have the LR 32 system and like it very much but likely do not know the issues you alluded to.
love it. I’m interested in the plans
I’d buy those plans. Great stuff!
Plans, please! 🍿
Of course id buy your plans!!!
They are in the store now!
Count me as interested. I will add this to my Paulk jigs.
Plans please.😊
Yes Ron ! This is awesome !
Thanks
Hi Ron
I would definitely be interested in your car plans
Will you offer the SVG for those of us with CNC's?
I'm surprised you haven't made 2 separate tracks, one for front and one for back?
Plans sound good.
Plans have dropped! stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/paulk-smart-lr32-jig-pslrjig-p32.php
Yes please!
I have an LR 32 system and I approve this message 😀. Let us know when the plans are ready!
We put up a short earlier today announcing the plans are in the store. They have already proven to be a hit! Tomorrow's video is an 18-minute companion build video. stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/index.php
Amazing 👌
Always enjoy your approach to working smarter. “Yes” on the plans for me too! I have to wonder if TSO is also working on their version… 🤔
Interested in the plans.
I'm wondering for large projects if it'd be worth it to make fixed distance versions instead of an adjustable one to ensure that nothing changes during use. The front measure will always remain the same, and then the back measurement will likely be the same across all lowers.
Thank you for educating me on the 32 mm system! I have been wondering about the difference between metric and standard cabinet measurements after watching how Timothy Wilmot built his shop cabinets and used 5mm euroscrews to attach the drawer slides.
I am interested in your system, even tho I don't have the Festool track (yet) - wanting to build cabinetry for my shop and for friends - this looks ideal!
I just bought an LR32 track and have not used it yet (need to buy the router). I will buy your plans. I already bought and built your latest-gen Smart Bench. TY!
Interested in the plans
It is also worth mentioning, that in addition to making this system work more efficiently, you would only need to order the LR32 guide plate ($155) and the Festool 5mm bit ($39); instead of the $595 set.
Definitely interested in the plans
I'm interested in the plans.
Yes, I would be interested in plans.
Yes make the plans!
Post the plans!! I'll buy them :)
stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/paulk-smart-lr32-jig-pslrjig-p32.php
Yes for the plans
Most certainly would get the plans. I have the LR32 system but have not used it yet.
Also interested in the plans 🤙
You can put pie down for the plans. Thanks
I'd love to have access to the plans! In my case I'd have to work up a conversion to the M18 fuel plunge base and ToolCurve base adapter, can't afford this particular tool yet.
So does this setup always center out the system holes to sides that aren’t 32mm equal
Meaning tops and bottoms for side will not matter
I’m very interested in this
Thanks Ron
I am not sure if I understand you question? The jig creates a balanced panel so there is no top, bottom, right, or left.stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/paulk-smart-lr32-jig-pslrjig-p32.php
@@TheSmartWoodshop
This is great to always have a balanced panel regardless of panel length
thanks that just answered my question
Please make a video Remaking the holes of your smartbench with it
The Parf guide is the only dependable way to make the MFT top without going with CNC.
What about a CNC-cut router template made of plywood or acrylic? Would that be just as dependable? I imagine the tolerances don't need to be that tight since even a CNC won't be perfect and the wood would move a bit anyway after the bench is made. And standard machining tolerances for metal are within 0.005".
Festool doesn't offer any tolerance specifications, even when asked, about their MFT tops. I was told that they don't have any tolerance guarantees on-file when I asked.
So I imagine that as long as you can fixture the template securely and index using a few bench dogs and/or dowel pins, you'd be in great shape.
Ron , Plans Please !
If I went down the LR 32 path I think it I would go with the Festool system. I have seen Sedgetool do the setup and it seemed easy. Have been more than happy with my smart bench but not so sure that this is a necessity.
yes please
Hey Ron. been watching your videos for quite some time..I bought your plans for trailer buildout. Love it...made a modification on drawer slide which worked well. I was thinking of buying the LR 32 system. Like what you said....just drill all the holes! I would consider buying your upgraded design..... Do you think you could use the LR 32 to make the MFT top?
👍
Me too on buying plans. Have an lr32, your call outs on limitations are spot on.
I have the LR32 rail and combined it with a ToolCurve adapter for my DeWalt router and found it to be a truly frustrating experience. I'm sure if I was exactly following the "rules" of the system and had a bunch of identical panels to drill it would make sense, but I was fitting a cabinet to a particular space. I didn't even know about the 32 mm system at the time, just made the measurements based on the space available. The panels aren't really deep enough to accommodate the rail, so I had to add additional support just to put the rail on because it's unnecessarily wide for its purpose. I wanted to do a face frame with space on the top and bottom for lighting, so that made it more complicated. It's divided into 3 sections (but all one big unit), so there are two internal dividers that aren't the same height as the two sides (or the same depth because of the back panel), so again I can't just plop the rail on those and have it work. At the end of the day, it wound up being faster, easier, and significantly cheaper to just use a Kreg jig. It's amazing to me that such an expensive setup should only work in very, very specific circumstances, which is that you have to have all panels exactly the same size (no internal dividers), all exactly based on the 32 mm system, and the panels have to be deep enough to accommodate the width of the rail.
Your system seems to solve at least some of those problems, which makes it a much better solution overall. Would definitely love to see plans.
I bought the plans but the build video is private. The link for the material list works but not the video. Please advise.
It was published this morning so now you can view it.
Nice setup, Ron. Would this work using the portable DeWalt/ Makita router with the aftermarket adapter for those smaller routers, assuming we already have the LR32 track?
You will also need a 3/8" to 8mm collet adapter as well, since the Festool bits are 8mm
yes on the plans
I've a LR32 and OF1010 in the van for a year that's never been used 🙈
I have the kit but i have never used it. I was learning how to use it and was setting it but then saw that I needed a 12mm collet. By the time I had got the collet but I have never got to try again.
Yes please for the plans
Sign me up! My investment in the LR 32 system several years ago is just collecting dust.
Still not quite sure how your system will work on longer sides, such as bookcases that go to the ceiling.
System holes are system holes. It works the same on bases, uppers, pantries, and bookcases. The sides are ALWAYS a multiple of 32 + 6. You will need a longer track or multiple tracks joined, but the position in from the ends never changes.
The LR32 manual shows you how to join two LR32 rails together. The outermost holes are about 12mm on center away from the edge of the rail, so there will be a slight gap between the rails. You insert your normal rail connecting bars in the two slots, then you space the rails using the included stop block that attach to the rail, using the side marked 16. Once the rail connectors are tightened, you can remove the stop block to regain access to the 32mm holes where it was attached.
Yes
Interested in the plans