Best video I've seen so far on how to adjust the pressure. I ran into the same problem with the paint issue. Now I feel confident that I was on the right track for the fix. Thanks for posting!
Excellent video. I've seen several videos where, ostensibly, the paint caused problems loosening the lock nut -- so I tried to be proactive by special-ordering some Kleanstrip Aircraft Paint Remover just for this adjustment job. Soaked the paint really well and let it sit for more than an hour. The paint remover did dissolve most of the paint. Used a ratchet and 14 mm socket on the lock nut to lessen the chance of stripping the nut. The nut wouldn't budge with just a 3/8 drive ratchet. Replaced the ratchet with a big-ass breaker bar, and the nut finally started to turn -- along with the entire fitting. I gotta believe it's more than paint holding that lock nut on. Anyway, with the whole fitting removed, I finally got the lock nut off by taking the fitting to the bench and using a vise. Oiled up the set screw and re-installed the fitting along with a now loosened lock nut and set screw. Question for you: After removing the set screw and reinstalling it, where do you *initially* position the set screw before making the fine-tuned adjustments. Seems to me you would seat the screw by turning it all the way clockwise, then back it off (a magic number) of turns. Can you suggest how many turns to back off the set screw from its seated position? Thanks.
I don't think there is a magic number of turns. I put my screw in until i could feel the spring resistance, then watched the gauge as I run it in. I would be really hard to get it right without the pressure gauge.
It's for more lift capacity. Not sure how much difference yet. I had some large landscape rocks that I had been dragging because I couldn't lift them. I'm hoping to at least get them 8 inches off the ground next time. For faster hydraulics, a larger pump or hydrosplus kit is needed. The original is a 6.3 gpm pump. I have a 9.5 gpm pump on right now.
It looks as if the head of the set screw was purposefully nicked as a way to prevent owners from raising the pressure of the hydraulic system and also as a way to show the dealer or JD Service person that the Hydraulic Pressure valve was tampered with after factory setting.
It wasn't like that. I caused that damage trying to twist it before breaking the paint loose. It's a detail I never heard of while watching other videos.
@@projectswithjw I stand Corrected. Thanx for pointing that out. Sometiems videos hid little details that cause the facts to be covered up. Glad you were able ot Overcome this issue and get it fixed. I know quite a few that would have given up and paid someone else to fix it. Not Me!
magnusson moss act, usa law, once you buy it, it's yours to do with as pleased even if just to use as a paper weight or run a commercial business. lawyers are allowed to lie only because we let them. perjury applies to lawyers also
I don't know a number specifically. I can lift rear off the ground with the backhoe and 300 lbs of wheel weight. Sometimes I throw suitcase weights in the backhoe bucket too.
It will up to 2500 PSI which is the setpoint of the PRV on the backhoe. Whichever PRV is lowest in the system becomes the weakest link. The way it comes from the factory, the loader PRV is the weakest so it's the first to go into relief mode.
Best video I've seen so far on how to adjust the pressure. I ran into the same problem with the paint issue. Now I feel confident that I was on the right track for the fix. Thanks for posting!
Excellent video.
I've seen several videos where, ostensibly, the paint caused problems loosening the lock nut -- so I tried to be proactive by special-ordering some Kleanstrip Aircraft Paint Remover just for this adjustment job. Soaked the paint really well and let it sit for more than an hour. The paint remover did dissolve most of the paint.
Used a ratchet and 14 mm socket on the lock nut to lessen the chance of stripping the nut. The nut wouldn't budge with just a 3/8 drive ratchet. Replaced the ratchet with a big-ass breaker bar, and the nut finally started to turn -- along with the entire fitting. I gotta believe it's more than paint holding that lock nut on.
Anyway, with the whole fitting removed, I finally got the lock nut off by taking the fitting to the bench and using a vise. Oiled up the set screw and re-installed the fitting along with a now loosened lock nut and set screw.
Question for you: After removing the set screw and reinstalling it, where do you *initially* position the set screw before making the fine-tuned adjustments. Seems to me you would seat the screw by turning it all the way clockwise, then back it off (a magic number) of turns. Can you suggest how many turns to back off the set screw from its seated position?
Thanks.
I don't think there is a magic number of turns. I put my screw in until i could feel the spring resistance, then watched the gauge as I run it in.
I would be really hard to get it right without the pressure gauge.
Well done. Good fix if there is a problem. I have been wondering how to test mine with the single point connector. Now I know. Thank You
Your video helped me with trying to get my allen screw broke loose! Thank you very much for the your helpful insight!!!
So exactly what did this accomplish? More speed for the implements or more lifting capacity or both? Thx
It's for more lift capacity. Not sure how much difference yet. I had some large landscape rocks that I had been dragging because I couldn't lift them. I'm hoping to at least get them 8 inches off the ground next time.
For faster hydraulics, a larger pump or hydrosplus kit is needed. The original is a 6.3 gpm pump. I have a 9.5 gpm pump on right now.
It looks as if the head of the set screw was purposefully nicked as a way to prevent owners from raising the pressure of the hydraulic system and also as a way to show the dealer or JD Service person that the Hydraulic Pressure valve was tampered with after factory setting.
It wasn't like that. I caused that damage trying to twist it before breaking the paint loose. It's a detail I never heard of while watching other videos.
@@projectswithjw I stand Corrected. Thanx for pointing that out. Sometiems videos hid little details that cause the facts to be covered up. Glad you were able ot Overcome this issue and get it fixed. I know quite a few that would have given up and paid someone else to fix it. Not Me!
magnusson moss act, usa law, once you buy it, it's yours to do with as pleased even if just to use as a paper weight or run a commercial business. lawyers are allowed to lie only because we let them. perjury applies to lawyers also
Yikes. Please use the box end of the wrench to break the nut loose.
After hopefully getting to put it through its paces by now, how much lift capacity would you think you’ve gained? Thanks for the informative video.
I don't know a number specifically. I can lift rear off the ground with the backhoe and 300 lbs of wheel weight. Sometimes I throw suitcase weights in the backhoe bucket too.
@@projectswithjw damn that’s impressive. Thanks.
Did you remove the bottom of the fender to get at that valve?
Nope, just the wheel is in the way.
Excellent, thank you.@@projectswithjw
Does this increase the pressure to the backhoe too?
It will up to 2500 PSI which is the setpoint of the PRV on the backhoe. Whichever PRV is lowest in the system becomes the weakest link. The way it comes from the factory, the loader PRV is the weakest so it's the first to go into relief mode.
How many turns did it take to get to that pressure...?
It's really a sensitive adjustment. I think maybe half a turn.
Yes best video do these valves fail
I set mine at 2800 psi.
Wow thats a terrible design with no access for this tightening it properly.
There are a lot of terrible designs on this model tractor.
Thanks for watching!