Wrap the heaters with heavy duty straps, attach to the ceiling with a block and tackle and lower them to the floor. Way safer than a big heavy heater sitting free on top of tall scaffolding. You also do not need to be going up and down to take the heaters apart.
And let's not forget to mention when taking anything apart it should be done in the reverse order of assembly steam pipes electrical pipes should be removed first before you detach unit from ceiling
Yep, a chain hoist and straps would have made this much easier. I've used that scaffolding and it's pretty good stuff - he'll end up using it a lot on this project.
chris ,roof is #1 , start black jack on trouble areas. windows should be #2 leave sprinkler system alone. elevator #3 and since you have a lg. room off main floor set up your work shop in their as heating that will give you a warm place this next winter then work on your visions oh ya be safe !!
Nice scaffolds. I have several and they are great. They are called "Baker's Scaffolds". Each level is called a "Buck". Be very careful because they can tip over especially when stacked. You can get out riggers to stableize them. You can also put the platform at a lower level and it makes a great temporary work bench. Keep up the hard work.
Watching you struggle with it convinces me that a block and tackle would be best. No need to take anything apart .Just chain the whole thing to the block and tackle and lower it to the ground safely and easily. Cheers Steve
The fan blade is on a square peg. The screw was the keeper screw. You will need THE BEST type of thread lock buster you can get. WD 40 might do the trick. Spray the shaft where it connects to the blade over and over again. Might take a day or two, then bang the blades off.
Chris you are easily my favorite channel. You are just the gift that keeps on giving. I'm going to remove heavy heaters from the ceiling. OOhh!! That motors heavy!!! Things in old factories tend to be a lot heavier than they look. I'm waiting to see if you stumble across an old boiler room.
2 tools you absolutely need to work on old stuff like this: Penetrating oil and a torch. Some things you can lube up with some penetrating oil to losen and some things you have to resort to heating up a little to free.
Getting the fan off the motor. It is not threaded. just stuck from time and perhaps a bur from the set screw. If the blade is durable enough, support the fan horizontally with the motor hanging below it. the weight of the motor will help. Take a flat round punch and strike the end of the motor shaft. If it continues to put up a fight, Heating the collar of the fan where the set screw was with a torch will help. The heating will cause the metal to expand and also the break the hold of rust.
You are very patient with "suggestions" that have an extremely condescending and/or demeaning tone. I don't think the writers are necessarily mean spirited folks, or that they don't have helpful information. I don't know them, so can't speak to their intentions. Just as none of us know you well enough to know your knowledge and capabilities. My suggestions for those commenters....ignore the undertone of negativity & focus on the positive and make- you-think comments.
I don't take it personal. There is so much positivity and genuine desire to help me that I feel really lucky. Thanks for noticing. as a matter of fact I have really benefitted from advice here. So I'll take the good with the bad! haha.
Block and tackle like others have mentioned. You cut the pipe next to the coupling? When 2 pipe wrenches would be cleaner and faster. For windows 4x8 sheet of plexiglass and a table saw. You need a bicycle to get around. Attach a basket or saddlebags. What a cool project.
the only way I could think to attach the chain hoist would be to drill holes in the angle iron and rig up a steel cable. maybe over the larger conduit but there would be swing at the moment of cut. The steel cable through the angle iron would be directly above, maybe that's the way to go.
Roof is number one. Just not posting the videos yet. Sprinkler system was inspected and it can never be used again. The rust is too high and clogs the sprinkler heads. So sadly it has to go. I have a cleanish room with heating already. Way ahead of you! Thanks for the well wishes!
On the pipe going into the heater there appears what may be a regulator. Next to that is a nut. This looks like a union fitting. Undo the nut and the pipe should come apart there.
Hello Again From R+R Reclamation in the uk,we use the aluminum towers you have yours is wobbly because it didn't have diagonal braces to make it super solid,as for the rust on the fan shaft or bolts heat it up with torch or blow lamp then immediately throw cold water on it to break the rust the metal shrinks so much so fast it shatters the rust particles, you really need to come to the UK for some lessons in salvage and making money from complete junk we never stop learning in this trade .
heat the centre, soak it with penetrating oil and give the collar sharp hits with either piece of steel or wood, shock it on opposite sides. the large collar on fan not shaft.
Chris, Hit the set screw hole and shaft with good penetrating oil and let it soak in. You probably don't have machinist wedges, but you could try hardwood wedges cut at a fairly low or acute angle. Put one on each side of the shaft between the motor and fan and tap slowly. You may get lucky and it will nreak free. Heat from a propane torch can help too by expanding the fan hub and breaking the corrosion.
@@brickandsole he said just what I was gonna say. Let it soak for a few days and keep applying the penetrating oil, don’t use anything like wd40 it won’t work. You probably will have to heat the fan shroud though to help break rust loose. If that doesn’t work heat the shaft till it glows red then pour ice cold water directly on it to cause a rapid cooling of the shaft. You should hear a ping when it breaks free. I usually use a fan blade puller but it doesn’t look like it would work on this one with no place to connect it. That scaffolding is very dangerous because it’s so narrow when you are up high. I bet your old set is more safe than the new one even though it has a wiggle to it. It looks like the building use to have a boiler that was used to pump hot water through the heater for heat it could also be used with a chiller to pump cold water through for air conditioning. I bet it still works!! Good luck wish I was there I have experience in most everything you have there.
For removing the heater. Drill holes in the angle iron on each side of where you cut it. Then you can run a cable through the holes and lower it down from the ground. One hole would act like a pulley with line run through it then the line you ran through it would be connected to the heater on the other hole you drilled through the angle iron. Hope you can understand how to told it. 💪👍
Big Ass heaters: Those are similar to regular unit heaters, except yours are set up for steam. I believe they would be called "blast coils" or something of the sort. Before you go any further, realize the coil part is cast iron or maybe cast steel, therefore the weight! Go back to HF, and get a couple of come alongs, and a block and tackle if they sell one that is of good quality, with maybe a 3/8 or even a 1/2 inch rope. Tractor Supply or a similar store would have one of good quality. Buy quality, be safe! BTW, the ends of the scaffolding are made with rungs like a ladder, to use for that purpose. If you plan to pull down any more of those units, I would use your fork lift! You can carry it between floors on the elevator...that type work is what it is made for.
If you have more of these, or other heavy stuff to bring down or lift up, invest in a good chain hoist and straps as mentioned below. Oh, that scaffolding is excellent stuff (I've used the exact same kind), but you spent at least twice as long as you should have doing it this way. I've used chain hoists for years for just such issues at work. They aren't horribly expensive, but buy a good one. That will also help getting stuff up and down the elevator shaft. Annnd, I posted too soon - you have one in the elevator shaft lol. The scaffolding was not a waste of money regardless - you'll use the crap out of that. Oh, and good call on buying the harness!
Getting this old building ready for business has fascinated me! I love searching for treasure, restoring houses, flipping houses, museums, history, urbex, and projects. I think about this building all the time. As I said, I’m fascinated! It’s been quite the project!
I know this was a year ago, but, when dealing with rusty bolts, fan blades on a shaft and anything hard to move, try PB Blaster spray. If that does not work, get a torch and heat it up to expand and free up the metal.
Those hanging ceiling fans are made by Emerson Electric out of St. Louis. They are worth decent money just as they are hanging. I collect antique electric fans and would definitely drive up just to buy those. I have a large collection of Emerson Electric fans as they made some of the best, most durable, and stylish ones back in the day. Those heaters are cool, too! I would probably just buy the fan/motor units off of them since they have such a stylish look.
I'll be posting some additional videos about them in the coming weeks. Thanks for the tip. Right now the fans are blocked by too much stuff to get them down, need to clean A Lot first.
15 feet tall and 2.5 feet wide. Looks like a domino waiting to fall over. Home Depot sells the same type of scaffolding and they have a bunch of accessories. I would recommend a set of their 14" outriders to make the base a square box. They also have guard rail system so you do not accidentally step off the platform.
it would be nice if you could attach a chain fall to the ceiling or joists above the heaters and rig the heaters up, cut loose and then lower down slowly.
Hello Chris, I have a suggestion for the table, if I may. Instead of a barn wood top use a thick piece of glass and back light the coils with an amber led strip ro show off the inside. What do you think?
I think I will try that on one of them. I decided to put a hinge on the barn wood top, that opens up with plexiglass to show the inside under some storage space. I post the videos with a bit of delay so I have already worked on this one. But the next one maybe a good idea! I have 10 of them.
You sure have some great ideas. I would spray some penetrating oil on the motor fan shaft where it goes through the fan. It's seized on there pretty good but it should just pull off in a perfect world. The shaft goes all the way through the motor and that is what the copper winding is on.
I really appreciate your taking us through your thought process during each video. And I appreciate you are a do-it-yourselfer and are learning as you go - just as we all are. As much fun as the small projects are, I do worry that you should be getting the building sealed up before you do your tinkering. Love your channel. Keep it up!
Thats going on in the background, just haven't posted those. The next one is about the windows. But the roof is currently undergoing the full treatment! Thanks for sage advice!
Hey Chris I’m a Construction Millwright by trade I don’t want to harp on you too much but if you’re working at heights tied off you should at minimum have somebody with you. A lot of people that experience falls die because of blood loss to the legs from the harness (blood clots) If you fall you have to relieve this pressure on your leg strap’s very quickly to avoid blood clots. You can’t do that if your alone. Love your channel brother! Just want to see you safe!
Thanks so much for the concern. I was thoroughly convinced by the experience that it is not a job for one person. Once I hire some help I'll get back to the others.
I hope you have someone with you at least or checking up on you frequently. Make sure your phone is on your person, not on a shelf or desk, at all times. This place is an accident waiting to happen. I think some cleaned up flywheels hanging on the wall would be interesting decor for the finished building.
Did those fans distribute heat from a furnace or boiler? I just wonder how that building was originally set up, and how much of it can be worth retaining. Back in those days, people were way more resourceful than we give them credit for. Maybe some clever retrofitting can be done.
set up 2 saw horses with 2 X 4's across, slide the fan across the boards with the motor hanging down, so the fan side that faces the motor should be resting on top of the boards and the motor is in free fall. Take a punch and knock the shaft out from the top of the fan, it is never threaded, just slides on. the motor will free fall, you will see the shaft punch out slowly. also keep the boards close together to the shaft so you don't warp the fan blade. The nut on the motor side is probably a grease fitting, they pump grease in on one side and let it ooze out the other.
Your fan blade is on a d shaped shaft off the motor. Once your set screws are removed the fan should slide off. In theory, however you may need to heat the center fan hub and shaft. And you most definitely need to spray some penetrating oil in that area just let it soak.
The rust came off, it spins now, but there is definitely something mechanical stopping it from coming off. There will eventually be another video about it uploaded.
Have to finish the vid later but wanted to say you should use outriggers to stabilize your scaffolding when you go up 2 sections. Good call on the safety harness. I'm curious as to how you would get down if you fall and it catches you. Keep up the great projects👍👍
That idea of what happens after the fall is arrested was my concern as well. He might not be injured but being hung up there for a while with no way down isn't a good option either.
I suggest you go see the reference librarian at the local library and see if they have any Sanborn fire maps from the early 1900’s. These were incredibly detailed maps of downtown and around industrial sites for insurance purposes. If available, should show a detailed layout of this site.
Those types of scaffolding require out rigging triangle legs to stabilize them at I believe 2 sections tall you need 18 inch out rigging and at 3 or 4 sections tall 36 inch out rigging..hopefully you grabbed some jack screw legs too so you can level the scaffold..I usually use the wheels on the scaffold itself but the jack screws legs / feet to then raise and level the scaffold and make it stationary..
As for removing the fan blade from the motor shaft: Put penetrating oil (eats rust) on it and let it soak overnight. Spray it on the front of the shaft (away from the motor), on the inside (next to the motor) and down the set screw hole that you removed. The shaft should be smooth, not threaded. A few taps with a metal drift pin on the front should free up the rust and let you get the fan off the shaft without damaging it. As for the core of the heater, you're probably dealing with cast iron in there since this looks like a steam system. You're wise to go slow and not rush. Sounds like you've got good people giving you advice on here. Good luck!
The hardwood flooring would be good for creating countertops and table tops. I think you might have a heck of a time flattening the curved motor mounts....they are welded in a curved position, so you likely will end up having to cut them off, and have flat brackets welded in the curved mount's place, or heat them up red hot and bending the portions with the holes to a level position (know any blacksmiths or welders?). The fan blades would look cool just cleaned and hung on a wall with some others. Some WD-40 is in order sprayed into the fan's hub's hole and from the back, and in the hole in the fan's hub, tip fan blade face up so the oil will run into the crack around the motor's shaft..then leave it for a week, adding some WD-40 every day or so. If that doesn't loosen it up, a propane torch is in order, to heat up the hub so it expands and breaks the rust and century of gunk in it/that is gluing it to the motor shaft. If you don't end up re-using the sprinklers (might want to check and see what is required as to fire suppression regulations there), or have old spare/NOS sprinkler heads, they are collectible as well. If you can find a heavy cast iron base, the ceiling mounted fan could be easily made into a floor model style. The movies love them, plus they are cool for use in loft spaces, etc. Should only be 110Volts, so will be easy to retrofit. To take the heaters down, I think a block and tackle is needed, like some others have mentioned. I think I'd sacrifice the long pipe portion and cut it off, or at least cut it much shorter, as that looked like a liability and could hook on to things (like yourself) and potentially cause some major issues...or, cut it, and then take a pipe wrench and take the "T" portion of temporarily. The heater front would also make a cool upcycled clock case. As for the upcycled mirror, maybe ultimately $375 US....tagged at $425, leaving room for some negotiation. Tough to tell without seeing the final product, though. I think I'd fill the bolt holes with dark, domed copper rivets, or maybe bolt heads...that will give it a more "finished" look. Would just have to cut bolts/rivets short, and epoxy them in place.
apparently only new constructions require sprinklers. Though all have to be up to code outside of that. I have an episode coming up about the finished mirror. Thanks for the ask/take estimate!
Get yourself a block and tackle it will make it easier to lowering to the floor. Buy some penitrating oil, it will make it easier to the fan blade off the shaft. It probably has a keyway in it. Does not screw off.
You definitely need another set of muscles to bring down the other heaters. I love your vision! It’s amazing. I rather like the table legs with the sprinkler heads attached, just a thought. Great segment but watching you was like watching a person doing a high wire act…stay safe.
Those all factories had what was called a tool crib behind those Dutch doors responsible people checked out tools and Expendables so things did not walk out of those factories a very popular notion In Those Old factories a place of that size would definitely have a tool crib and they always were fenced and made secure
You need to use a torch to heat up the area next to the motor's shaft then tap it with a steel hammer and it should come off....Make sure you heat and tap all the way around the diameter of the shaft while doing this, good luck....Just one more thing , it would be a lot easier to lower the fan units using a small chain block, hope this helps....
Got it freed up, but when it slides, it hits something solid now. Like a hidden bolt head ro something, in a couple weeks I will post another video about it. Got some other stuff in the cue now.
@@brickandsole start at an HVAC contractor. They should have one to at least look at so you know what to rent. They will also have info on where to rent one. Google "duct hoist", or "material lift" just to get an idea of what it looks like.
Looks like there is a set screw on the fan shroud that tightens to the shaft that you want to cut. Also you should buy a few cans of PB Blaster, 1000 times better than WD40. The remaining part of the furnace that is still hanging could have cast iron burners, making it extremely heavy. Good luck, keep up with the Vids
I cannot stress enough how good the PB Blaster advice is. Get a case of it. Get two cases. Spray it on whatever is stuck and walk away. Come back and whack conservatively all around the perimeter of the fan. You should also consider getting a heat gun. Use the gun on the fan, but not the motor arbor, it will expand and should help aid in getting it detached. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES CUT THE MOTOR ARBOR!!! You will render it useless to anyone who would want it otherwise.
@@brickandsole Good instincts! Trust them and ask when you think you need to ask. I'm guessing the motor is three phase, which makes it less marketable. If there is a motor plate on there, see if you can get a clear shot of it to see the HP, amps, phase, etc. I can tell you from restoring old woodworking machinery that these motors are extremely hard to kill. Would not be at all surprised if you wired it up and it ran as is.
Also if you go the lubricant route get large monkey wrenches or stilsen wrenches. Big adjustable things that fit round those pipe fittings. With a combination of options taking them apart should then become at least a little easier and give you more creative options.
Hi I would price it at least $1000. Make them all different that way they are one of a kind. Never price yourself short, aim high, then go from there. Lots of luck.
@@brickandsole Hi again you can create an art show with all your pieces. Why not contact an art dealer in NYC or California or antique dealer in a high rolling environment
When I use a scaffold type process, I've learned to put each of the levels at no more than about 12 inches. However, I'm shorter and less able to lift than you, but you still might find having smaller diffrrences in the levels make it easier to maneuver things.
I like the ideas of the repourposed items. I am completely clueless when it comes to pricing items of this sort, but my brother ( who dabbles sometimes in selling boats and cars ) always says, "set the price a little high - you can always come down". This is reasonable advice. The item is only worth what the buyer will pay for it. If you bring it to a dealer or set it up at a show - ask potential buyers what they think a piece like that would be worth. The "sunflower" sculpture is also a great idea.....good luck !
Not sure if you could get one of these up the stairs but if you can go and rent one of these, it’s going to be able to do the job for you much safer and easier it’s called a material lift. If you look it up, I’m sure your local rental company will have one. I tried to send a picture, but I don’t know how to do that.
I have determined the valleys are 80% of the problems, going to replace them, try to stay with the new metal roof. And do a lap seam down the entire thing that should resolve most of it. A few cross supports that the metal is screwed to need replaced, then once it is all buttoned up, I hope to have it sprayed.
I have ask Why are you taken the sprinkler system out it could be made a dry sistom very easy were the fire department hucks up out side to a stand pipe that would be a good thing to have in old bulbing look into it
Chris, if you're going to try to lower lot of this heavy stuff yourself get a couple of 1/2 ton chain falls, a bunch of 4 to 6 ft nylon straps and a dozen 2" shackles. It will be so much easier..
I would have done that but I could only attach to the side and didn't want swing. Someone sent me a link that shows how to do it from two spots on opposite sides so that I can use the chain hoist. Thanks.
All you needed was to put some heavy duty straps around that thing and rig up a pulley and you could lower it to the ground without dealing with scaffolding!
It might be stainless for the water lines inside the housing because hot water was being pumped through them from a boiler. Just never know what they used back then
You’re going to hurt yourself using the method you used for the first one. Use a Block and tackle or a HarborFreight come a long. Those are oil lubrication reservoirs on each end of the motor shaft. Use some heavy duty penetrating oil to spray the fan shaft to loosen it. Then use a 2x4 block and a hammer to knock the fan from the shaft. Years ago I saw a freight elevator operating from a Ford tractor for power to rotate the winch cable drum. Low gear for down…….and reverse gear for up. Might be a thought. Was used for materials only …..not to transport people
One more thing, you should take the motor units outside to do this so there is no chance of starting a fire within your building, hope it all works out....
Hey Chris i'm sure other people have said it, but can't you take a section of floor up over the heater and get a beam, some chain and a winch? Seems easier and safer! Also, is there asbestos in them? Anyway, they look great, not sure about the flower idea, I love the industrial look to them, i'd be making a lightweight box mimicking the heater they were in, for a wall hanging. If you take the coat stand out, can it be split up into single sections?
I worked as an engineer in a government facility built in the 1950’s. When things broke I looked up vendor information for our maintenance team. When manuals could not be located, I would contact the vendor or the company that bought them out. Usually they could provide the information needed.
Can you please wear some steel toed boots? You can step on a nail or drop something on your foot 😲😕 safety first 😊 just watched a Jamie Ray Vintage video they own a thrift store. She redid a hugh round compressed wood mirror her price was local around $350 shipped $500 I would price yours around $5-650 or more it's 100 years old and hugh just the glass alone will be pricey. I absolutely love the way you see things. So much like the way I do. Keep the videos coming.
Good afternoon, I don't know how many of the heater units you have removed, there is a pipe coupling between the unit and the main piping. If you break that free, you will be better able to handle the unit as all the excess piping will not be attached. Nice that you're working with a safety harness, but in order for it to work properly it needs to be attached to something solid in the ceiling, using the gas line or the electrical conduit is not really a good idea. Keep on doing what you're doing.
There is nothing else to hook to I thought about clamps to the joists but on the first floor we barely pulled the pipe hangers out with a vehicle. So I thought it would be safer. Not sure.
you might be able to use a pully puller or gear puller. the puller will push the shaft throught the fan housing. isn't that piping that you are taking apart, part of the sprinkler system. and would you not need that to make it code to be able to have the public enter???
The motor shaft should be smooth, not threaded. Take a pointed punch and drive the motor shaft out with a 2 lbs sledge. The motors probably still work.
@@brickandsole check the voltage before you try the fans. They might be 3 phase which you don’t have anymore. Should say on the motor what phase it is. If it’s single phase you can wire it up using the power you have. Make sure to check the voltage also
What are you going to doing for heat in the building? And water? Do you have the one working bathroom? There is a spray used by restorers that you can spray on corroded bolts and screws that losen it so you can get them off. You just spray it on let it sit so it can work its magic. Then you come back and you are able to undo the screw or bolt. My guess is those heaters have been up there so long that they are corroded with years and years of bird poop and dirt. The only way you can get them off is with the spray or saw them off.
Please please please With your cutting wheel of death, please make sure that the disc does not hit the ground/table/whatever when you set it down. Any fracture and that thing will shatter/explode when you touch it to the work. When it explodes, the pieces will fly violently away and whatever they hit will get cut or stabbed with the pieces. If that piece that geys hit is part of you, you will be in a huge hurry to get to the hospital.At 48:38 in the video, it looks like there are missing chunks at "5:30" and "8:00" on the wheel. When you set it down at 48:41 it is clear there is definitely a chunk missing at "1:30" on the wheel. Never use a wheel that looks like that. Buy the big packs they sell, and any time it gets a crack/chunk/missing piece, throw it away and put a new wheel on. Those are an awesome tool. But when the wheels come apart, awesome is an understatement. So please be safe. I would consider a chain fall and straps to lower the heaters. And anything else heavy. Wrap the strap a couple times around the "spider" that attaches the motor, then hook it to the chain fall. it will make lowering it a piece of cake. www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-chain-hoist-996.html www.harborfreight.com/3333-lb-capacity-24-in-x-2-in-axle-strap-with-d-rings-57271.html Love this project. I would kill for this building. Warts and all. Looking for something similar. I would love to know how you found this place!
actually already did haha. Will post a video about it in a couple of weeks. I am trying to release a video every 4 days or so and that one is in the cue!
@@brickandsole In time it'll all come together. I've been binging through your progress videos from the past year and you've done a ton toward bringing that place back to life. 👍
Those old motors are less powerful for their size compared to a modern one,,, but they will last forever and can be repaired instead of having to be replaced.
Wrap the heaters with heavy duty straps, attach to the ceiling with a block and tackle and lower them to the floor. Way safer than a big heavy heater sitting free on top of tall scaffolding. You also do not need to be going up and down to take the heaters apart.
And let's not forget to mention when taking anything apart it should be done in the reverse order of assembly steam pipes electrical pipes should be removed first before you detach unit from ceiling
Yep, a chain hoist and straps would have made this much easier. I've used that scaffolding and it's pretty good stuff - he'll end up using it a lot on this project.
I thought about a chain hoist, but I didn't know how to connect it. I didn't trust clamps on the joists.
maybe drill holes in the angle iron and put the changing hoist on that with a steel cable?
How about drilling holes in the middle of the Joyce and sliding a Ridgid pipe or solid rod
chris ,roof is #1 , start black jack on trouble areas. windows should be #2 leave sprinkler system alone. elevator #3 and since you have a lg. room off main floor set up your work shop in their as heating that will give you a warm place this next winter then work on your visions oh ya be safe !!
I agree with Eric a block and tackle is the way to go. I would also have someone there to help with a tag line and to be your safety buddy.
Your imagination is remarkable! Love the sunflowers idea :-)!
It is really cool to see this building getting fixed up. Should save some of those heaters. Collectors like me would love one.
I'll have to research that.
Nice scaffolds. I have several and they are great. They are called "Baker's Scaffolds". Each level is called a "Buck". Be very careful because they can tip over especially when stacked. You can get out riggers to stableize them. You can also put the platform at a lower level and it makes a great temporary work bench. Keep up the hard work.
nice tip, thanks!
Watching you struggle with it convinces me that a block and tackle would be best. No need to take anything apart .Just chain the whole thing to the block and tackle and lower it to the ground safely and easily. Cheers Steve
The fan blade is on a square peg. The screw was the keeper screw. You will need THE BEST type of thread lock buster you can get. WD 40 might do the trick. Spray the shaft where it connects to the blade over and over again. Might take a day or two, then bang the blades off.
Chris you are easily my favorite channel. You are just the gift that keeps on giving. I'm going to remove heavy heaters from the ceiling. OOhh!! That motors heavy!!! Things in old factories tend to be a lot heavier than they look. I'm waiting to see if you stumble across an old boiler room.
2 tools you absolutely need to work on old stuff like this: Penetrating oil and a torch. Some things you can lube up with some penetrating oil to losen and some things you have to resort to heating up a little to free.
And I might add, a couple of large pipe wrenches. HF is fine for that, and their aluminum ones are really handy!!
yes WD40
The vision you have for the items you find is amazing!! Love watching your videos.
Getting the fan off the motor. It is not threaded. just stuck from time and perhaps a bur from the set screw. If the blade is durable enough, support the fan horizontally with the motor hanging below it. the weight of the motor will help. Take a flat round punch and strike the end of the motor shaft. If it continues to put up a fight, Heating the collar of the fan where the set screw was with a torch will help. The heating will cause the metal to expand and also the break the hold of rust.
I would use a heat gun instead. Torch is overkill.
I will do this in combination with penetrating oil. See what happens.
@@kevin_delgado heat gun will never get the shaft red hot. It would never expand enough either to break the rust free
Place a beam across the two scaffolds with space between them and use an electric winch to lower the heater to the floor.
You are very patient with "suggestions" that have an extremely condescending and/or demeaning tone. I don't think the writers are necessarily mean spirited folks, or that they don't have helpful information. I don't know them, so can't speak to their intentions. Just as none of us know you well enough to know your knowledge and capabilities. My suggestions for those commenters....ignore the undertone of negativity & focus on the positive and make- you-think comments.
I don't take it personal. There is so much positivity and genuine desire to help me that I feel really lucky. Thanks for noticing. as a matter of fact I have really benefitted from advice here. So I'll take the good with the bad! haha.
Block and tackle like others have mentioned. You cut the pipe next to the coupling? When 2 pipe wrenches would be cleaner and faster. For windows 4x8 sheet of plexiglass and a table saw.
You need a bicycle to get around. Attach a basket or saddlebags.
What a cool project.
Yes, some PB Blaster and wrenches will take care of the plumbing. It is all meant to be replaceable without cutting.
the only way I could think to attach the chain hoist would be to drill holes in the angle iron and rig up a steel cable. maybe over the larger conduit but there would be swing at the moment of cut. The steel cable through the angle iron would be directly above, maybe that's the way to go.
@@brickandsole that’s how you should do it just like you said
That's the longest I've held my breath in years! I am lovin' your channel- but please stay safe!
Roof is number one. Just not posting the videos yet. Sprinkler system was inspected and it can never be used again. The rust is too high and clogs the sprinkler heads. So sadly it has to go. I have a cleanish room with heating already. Way ahead of you! Thanks for the well wishes!
On the pipe going into the heater there appears what may be a regulator. Next to that is a nut. This looks like a union fitting. Undo the nut and the pipe should come apart there.
Hello Again From R+R Reclamation in the uk,we use the aluminum towers you have yours is wobbly because it didn't have diagonal braces to make it super solid,as for the rust on the fan shaft or bolts heat it up with torch or blow lamp then immediately throw cold water on it to break the rust the metal shrinks so much so fast it shatters the rust particles, you really need to come to the UK for some lessons in salvage and making money from complete junk we never stop learning in this trade .
I could come for a visit. I actually live in Poland.
heat the centre, soak it with penetrating oil and give the collar sharp hits with either piece of steel or wood, shock it on opposite sides. the large collar on fan not shaft.
Chris, Hit the set screw hole and shaft with good penetrating oil and let it soak in. You probably don't have machinist wedges, but you could try hardwood wedges cut at a fairly low or acute angle. Put one on each side of the shaft between the motor and fan and tap slowly. You may get lucky and it will nreak free. Heat from a propane torch can help too by expanding the fan hub and breaking the corrosion.
I'll try this. I need to let the lubricant soak. I'll post an update.
@@brickandsole he said just what I was gonna say. Let it soak for a few days and keep applying the penetrating oil, don’t use anything like wd40 it won’t work. You probably will have to heat the fan shroud though to help break rust loose. If that doesn’t work heat the shaft till it glows red then pour ice cold water directly on it to cause a rapid cooling of the shaft. You should hear a ping when it breaks free. I usually use a fan blade puller but it doesn’t look like it would work on this one with no place to connect it.
That scaffolding is very dangerous because it’s so narrow when you are up high. I bet your old set is more safe than the new one even though it has a wiggle to it. It looks like the building use to have a boiler that was used to pump hot water through the heater for heat it could also be used with a chiller to pump cold water through for air conditioning. I bet it still works!! Good luck wish I was there I have experience in most everything you have there.
Atf automatic transmission fluid and acetone 50/50 is some of the best pentrating oil mix.
For removing the heater. Drill holes in the angle iron on each side of where you cut it. Then you can run a cable through the holes and lower it down from the ground. One hole would act like a pulley with line run through it then the line you ran through it would be connected to the heater on the other hole you drilled through the angle iron. Hope you can understand how to told it. 💪👍
Big Ass heaters: Those are similar to regular unit heaters, except yours are set up for steam. I believe they would be called "blast coils" or something of the sort. Before you go any further, realize the coil part is cast iron or maybe cast steel, therefore the weight! Go back to HF, and get a couple of come alongs, and a block and tackle if they sell one that is of good quality, with maybe a 3/8 or even a 1/2 inch rope. Tractor Supply or a similar store would have one of good quality. Buy quality, be safe! BTW, the ends of the scaffolding are made with rungs like a ladder, to use for that purpose. If you plan to pull down any more of those units, I would use your fork lift! You can carry it between floors on the elevator...that type work is what it is made for.
You really have a knack for out of the box thinking! Love how you think!
If you have more of these, or other heavy stuff to bring down or lift up, invest in a good chain hoist and straps as mentioned below. Oh, that scaffolding is excellent stuff (I've used the exact same kind), but you spent at least twice as long as you should have doing it this way. I've used chain hoists for years for just such issues at work. They aren't horribly expensive, but buy a good one. That will also help getting stuff up and down the elevator shaft. Annnd, I posted too soon - you have one in the elevator shaft lol.
The scaffolding was not a waste of money regardless - you'll use the crap out of that. Oh, and good call on buying the harness!
thanks, I will use the scaffolding for windows and tuck pointing the bricks outside.
Getting this old building ready for business has fascinated me! I love searching for treasure, restoring houses, flipping houses, museums, history, urbex, and projects. I think about this building all the time. As I said, I’m fascinated! It’s been quite the project!
Man that was nerve racking watching you maneuver that heater on that scaffold, you definitely need help with those 👍
Yeah, that's the last one I will do alone.
I know this was a year ago, but, when dealing with rusty bolts, fan blades on a shaft and anything hard to move, try PB Blaster spray. If that does not work, get a torch and heat it up to expand and free up the metal.
thats what I eventually did. Cheers.
Those hanging ceiling fans are made by Emerson Electric out of St. Louis. They are worth decent money just as they are hanging. I collect antique electric fans and would definitely drive up just to buy those. I have a large collection of Emerson Electric fans as they made some of the best, most durable, and stylish ones back in the day.
Those heaters are cool, too! I would probably just buy the fan/motor units off of them since they have such a stylish look.
I'll be posting some additional videos about them in the coming weeks. Thanks for the tip. Right now the fans are blocked by too much stuff to get them down, need to clean A Lot first.
As other said, chain hoist. Use motorcycle ratchet straps, one vertical the other horizontal will give you an anchor point to lift the heater.
15 feet tall and 2.5 feet wide. Looks like a domino waiting to fall over. Home Depot sells the same type of scaffolding and they have a bunch of accessories. I would recommend a set of their 14" outriders to make the base a square box. They also have guard rail system so you do not accidentally step off the platform.
I saw them. I was also thinking about also building my own.
it would be nice if you could attach a chain fall to the ceiling or joists above the heaters and rig the heaters up, cut loose and then lower down slowly.
Jut went to harbor freight and got a chain hoist. Will use in the future!
Hello Chris, I have a suggestion for the table, if I may.
Instead of a barn wood top use a thick piece of glass and back light the coils with an amber led strip ro show off the inside. What do you think?
I like the backlit glass idea.
I think I will try that on one of them. I decided to put a hinge on the barn wood top, that opens up with plexiglass to show the inside under some storage space. I post the videos with a bit of delay so I have already worked on this one. But the next one maybe a good idea! I have 10 of them.
@@brickandsole can’t wait to see the finished product.
You sure have some great ideas. I would spray some penetrating oil on the motor fan shaft where it goes through the fan. It's seized on there pretty good but it should just pull off in a perfect world. The shaft goes all the way through the motor and that is what the copper winding is on.
Okay, I am going to try it. I thought the same thing, but is is on there good.
I really appreciate your taking us through your thought process during each video. And I appreciate you are a do-it-yourselfer and are learning as you go - just as we all are. As much fun as the small projects are, I do worry that you should be getting the building sealed up before you do your tinkering. Love your channel. Keep it up!
Thats going on in the background, just haven't posted those. The next one is about the windows. But the roof is currently undergoing the full treatment! Thanks for sage advice!
Hey Chris I’m a Construction Millwright by trade I don’t want to harp on you too much but if you’re working at heights tied off you should at minimum have somebody with you. A lot of people that experience falls die because of blood loss to the legs from the harness (blood clots) If you fall you have to relieve this pressure on your leg strap’s very quickly to avoid blood clots. You can’t do that if your alone. Love your channel brother! Just want to see you safe!
Thanks so much for the concern. I was thoroughly convinced by the experience that it is not a job for one person. Once I hire some help I'll get back to the others.
The mirror base looks incredible!
I hope you have someone with you at least or checking up on you frequently. Make sure your phone is on your person, not on a shelf or desk, at all times. This place is an accident waiting to happen. I think some cleaned up flywheels hanging on the wall would be interesting decor for the finished building.
Did those fans distribute heat from a furnace or boiler? I just wonder how that building was originally set up, and how much of it can be worth retaining. Back in those days, people were way more resourceful than we give them credit for. Maybe some clever retrofitting can be done.
Thanks!
Holy COW! That is so kind of you! Thank you!
set up 2 saw horses with 2 X 4's across, slide the fan across the boards with the motor hanging down, so the fan side that faces the motor should be resting on top of the boards and the motor is in free fall. Take a punch and knock the shaft out from the top of the fan, it is never threaded, just slides on. the motor will free fall, you will see the shaft punch out slowly. also keep the boards close together to the shaft so you don't warp the fan blade. The nut on the motor side is probably a grease fitting, they pump grease in on one side and let it ooze out the other.
Perfect tip, I'll combine this option with some penetrating oil!
Id definitely get a 1/2 or 3/8 Milwaukee impact cordless for those bolts on the heaters also they sell those safety harnesses at home depot and lowes
Your fan blade is on a d shaped shaft off the motor. Once your set screws are removed the fan should slide off. In theory, however you may need to heat the center fan hub and shaft. And you most definitely need to spray some penetrating oil in that area just let it soak.
The rust came off, it spins now, but there is definitely something mechanical stopping it from coming off. There will eventually be another video about it uploaded.
Have to finish the vid later but wanted to say you should use outriggers to stabilize your scaffolding when you go up 2 sections. Good call on the safety harness. I'm curious as to how you would get down if you fall and it catches you. Keep up the great projects👍👍
YES
That idea of what happens after the fall is arrested was my concern as well. He might not be injured but being hung up there for a while with no way down isn't a good option either.
I suggest you go see the reference librarian at the local library and see if they have any Sanborn fire maps from the early 1900’s. These were incredibly detailed maps of downtown and around industrial sites for insurance purposes. If available, should show a detailed layout of this site.
That is a tip I haven't heard yet. Thanks!
Those types of scaffolding require out rigging triangle legs to stabilize them at I believe 2 sections tall you need 18 inch out rigging and at 3 or 4 sections tall 36 inch out rigging..hopefully you grabbed some jack screw legs too so you can level the scaffold..I usually use the wheels on the scaffold itself but the jack screws legs / feet to then raise and level the scaffold and make it stationary..
I agree that scaffolding is too narrow not to have a outrigger on it. I think his old set was better than what he bought
As for removing the fan blade from the motor shaft: Put penetrating oil (eats rust) on it and let it soak overnight. Spray it on the front of the shaft (away from the motor), on the inside (next to the motor) and down the set screw hole that you removed. The shaft should be smooth, not threaded. A few taps with a metal drift pin on the front should free up the rust and let you get the fan off the shaft without damaging it.
As for the core of the heater, you're probably dealing with cast iron in there since this looks like a steam system.
You're wise to go slow and not rush. Sounds like you've got good people giving you advice on here. Good luck!
Yeah, it's like a hive mind!!
The hardwood flooring would be good for creating countertops and table tops. I think you might have a heck of a time flattening the curved motor mounts....they are welded in a curved position, so you likely will end up having to cut them off, and have flat brackets welded in the curved mount's place, or heat them up red hot and bending the portions with the holes to a level position (know any blacksmiths or welders?). The fan blades would look cool just cleaned and hung on a wall with some others. Some WD-40 is in order sprayed into the fan's hub's hole and from the back, and in the hole in the fan's hub, tip fan blade face up so the oil will run into the crack around the motor's shaft..then leave it for a week, adding some WD-40 every day or so. If that doesn't loosen it up, a propane torch is in order, to heat up the hub so it expands and breaks the rust and century of gunk in it/that is gluing it to the motor shaft. If you don't end up re-using the sprinklers (might want to check and see what is required as to fire suppression regulations there), or have old spare/NOS sprinkler heads, they are collectible as well. If you can find a heavy cast iron base, the ceiling mounted fan could be easily made into a floor model style. The movies love them, plus they are cool for use in loft spaces, etc. Should only be 110Volts, so will be easy to retrofit. To take the heaters down, I think a block and tackle is needed, like some others have mentioned. I think I'd sacrifice the long pipe portion and cut it off, or at least cut it much shorter, as that looked like a liability and could hook on to things (like yourself) and potentially cause some major issues...or, cut it, and then take a pipe wrench and take the "T" portion of temporarily. The heater front would also make a cool upcycled clock case. As for the upcycled mirror, maybe ultimately $375 US....tagged at $425, leaving room for some negotiation. Tough to tell without seeing the final product, though. I think I'd fill the bolt holes with dark, domed copper rivets, or maybe bolt heads...that will give it a more "finished" look. Would just have to cut bolts/rivets short, and epoxy them in place.
apparently only new constructions require sprinklers. Though all have to be up to code outside of that. I have an episode coming up about the finished mirror. Thanks for the ask/take estimate!
Get yourself a block and tackle it will make it easier to lowering to the floor.
Buy some penitrating oil, it will make it easier to the fan blade off the shaft. It probably has a keyway in it. Does not screw off.
I'll have an update on the fan soon. Also help next time with the other heaters and a chain hoist. Thanks.
If you get the elevator working you could get a electric high lift to get the heaters down and it would take about a day to get all of them down
that will work on second and first floor, but on the third floor until elevator is fixed no access. Will post a vid about elevator sometime soon.
Safety harness is always handy .Also be careful with those straps from your hoodie. they might get caught in something .
Those heaters use steam toheat all the fittings going to the pipes are cast iron hit the with ahammer hard they crack
Hi Chris
You can build an A frame to hoist down the heavy object with a rope.
this could work, there was nothing directly above it to hitch to. But I think I know how to do a multipont pulley system now.
Perfect timing for my lunch break! Keep up the good work, Chris!
Awesome! Thank you!
You definitely need another set of muscles to bring down the other heaters. I love your vision! It’s amazing. I rather like the table legs with the sprinkler heads attached, just a thought. Great segment but watching you was like watching a person doing a high wire act…stay safe.
Those all factories had what was called a tool crib behind those Dutch doors responsible people checked out tools and Expendables so things did not walk out of those factories a very popular notion In Those Old factories a place of that size would definitely have a tool crib and they always were fenced and made secure
there is actually 4 of them in the building. still caged/wired
That alluminum one can be made plenty strong buy instslling x bars our brace# wit pipe and u bolts
Should be a a alinkey hold ing that fan on
You need to use a torch to heat up the area next to the motor's shaft then tap it with a steel hammer and it should come off....Make sure you heat and tap all the way around the diameter of the shaft while doing this, good luck....Just one more thing , it would be a lot easier to lower the fan units using a small chain block, hope this helps....
Got it freed up, but when it slides, it hits something solid now. Like a hidden bolt head ro something, in a couple weeks I will post another video about it. Got some other stuff in the cue now.
Also rent a duct hoist. It will make lowering those heaters 10 times easier. They’re rather portable.
never heard of that, I'll check into it.
@@brickandsole start at an HVAC contractor. They should have one to at least look at so you know what to rent. They will also have info on where to rent one. Google "duct hoist", or "material lift" just to get an idea of what it looks like.
Check to see if those inner fins are brass or copper if they are they would make a great pay day
If you can get antique mirror glass for the frame, the price will go up. Just the frame, start at $400. Great ideas, Chris!
Nice, I will be posting a video of the final product soon. like a week or so.
Looks like there is a set screw on the fan shroud that tightens to the shaft that you want to cut. Also you should buy a few cans of PB Blaster, 1000 times better than WD40. The remaining part of the furnace that is still hanging could have cast iron burners, making it extremely heavy. Good luck, keep up with the Vids
I cannot stress enough how good the PB Blaster advice is. Get a case of it. Get two cases. Spray it on whatever is stuck and walk away. Come back and whack conservatively all around the perimeter of the fan. You should also consider getting a heat gun. Use the gun on the fan, but not the motor arbor, it will expand and should help aid in getting it detached. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES CUT THE MOTOR ARBOR!!! You will render it useless to anyone who would want it otherwise.
Thanks, that's why I hesitated and didn't do it. Love the hive mind info here. I have a heat gun in the building. I'll try to do an update video.
@@brickandsole Good instincts! Trust them and ask when you think you need to ask. I'm guessing the motor is three phase, which makes it less marketable. If there is a motor plate on there, see if you can get a clear shot of it to see the HP, amps, phase, etc. I can tell you from restoring old woodworking machinery that these motors are extremely hard to kill. Would not be at all surprised if you wired it up and it ran as is.
Also if you go the lubricant route get large monkey wrenches or stilsen wrenches. Big adjustable things that fit round those pipe fittings. With a combination of options taking them apart should then become at least a little easier and give you more creative options.
Hi I would price it at least $1000. Make them all different that way they are one of a kind. Never price yourself short, aim high, then go from there. Lots of luck.
Thanks, next Friday I will post the video of the final product.
@@brickandsole Hi again you can create an art show with all your pieces. Why not contact an art dealer in NYC or California or antique dealer in a high rolling environment
Canyousecure a block and tacle to the rafters . If so . tie it up , take the weight move the scaffold and lower it to the ground
When I use a scaffold type process, I've learned to put each of the levels at no more than about 12 inches. However, I'm shorter and less able to lift than you, but you still might find having smaller diffrrences in the levels make it easier to maneuver things.
Sorry, wrote my comment too early!
I got a little impatient. but now I think I will use a different process next time anyway thanks to the advice here.
I like the ideas of the repourposed items. I am completely clueless when it comes to pricing items of this sort, but my brother ( who dabbles sometimes in selling boats and cars )
always says, "set the price a little high - you can always come down". This is reasonable advice. The item is only worth what the buyer will pay for it. If you bring it to a dealer or
set it up at a show - ask potential buyers what they think a piece like that would be worth. The "sunflower" sculpture is also a great idea.....good luck !
I saw handmade wire hangers at Cuban National Ballet.
Not sure if you could get one of these up the stairs but if you can go and rent one of these, it’s going to be able to do the job for you much safer and easier it’s called a material lift. If you look it up, I’m sure your local rental company will have one. I tried to send a picture, but I don’t know how to do that.
I looked on Facebook marketplace, I'd like to buy a used one.
That would be neat idea for cutting board
Chris, a scissor lift would be way easier to take down the heaters. How are the roof repair plans going? Keep up the good work and never give up! 🤘😎🤘
I have determined the valleys are 80% of the problems, going to replace them, try to stay with the new metal roof. And do a lap seam down the entire thing that should resolve most of it. A few cross supports that the metal is screwed to need replaced, then once it is all buttoned up, I hope to have it sprayed.
I have ask Why are you taken the sprinkler system out it could be made a dry sistom very easy were the fire department hucks up out side to a stand pipe that would be a good thing to have in old bulbing look into it
What about some sort of sling system set up for lifting things and maneuvering? Just a thought.
yeah, I just got recommended a yt video about how to do it.
I stumbled across your videos I love them and now I am a subscriber 😊
Thanks, great to have you!!! thanks for commenting too.
Chris, if you're going to try to lower lot of this heavy stuff yourself get a couple of 1/2 ton chain falls, a bunch of 4 to 6 ft nylon straps and a dozen 2" shackles. It will be so much easier..
I would have done that but I could only attach to the side and didn't want swing. Someone sent me a link that shows how to do it from two spots on opposite sides so that I can use the chain hoist. Thanks.
All you needed was to put some heavy duty straps around that thing and rig up a pulley and you could lower it to the ground without dealing with scaffolding!
Nothing to hook to above it, didn't want it to swing, but I was recommended a video on how to do it multipoint.
Egads! A lil nervous for your safety. Do you have water and electric ? A bathroom? Omg love the table plan!
The inside coil are maybe copper, (to test if it's, it takes a good magnet and if it sticks it's not copper, but if it not sticks, it's copper) ;)
well the case around it is cast iron but I think a 1926 workin motor may also have value as a motor. not sure.
It might be stainless for the water lines inside the housing because hot water was being pumped through them from a boiler. Just never know what they used back then
You’re going to hurt yourself using the method you used for the first one. Use a Block and tackle or a HarborFreight come a long.
Those are oil lubrication reservoirs on each end of the motor shaft.
Use some heavy duty penetrating oil to spray the fan shaft to loosen it. Then use a 2x4 block and a hammer to knock the fan from the shaft.
Years ago I saw a freight elevator operating from a Ford tractor for power to rotate the winch cable drum. Low gear for down…….and reverse gear for up. Might be a thought. Was used for materials only …..not to transport people
Try some heat and penetrating oil on fan shaft
One more thing, you should take the motor units outside to do this so there is no chance of starting a fire within your building, hope it all works out....
My uncle is a retired fabricator, going to take it to him.
Break the piping at the Union. That is why it is there.
Hey Chris i'm sure other people have said it, but can't you take a section of floor up over the heater and get a beam, some chain and a winch? Seems easier and safer! Also, is there asbestos in them? Anyway, they look great, not sure about the flower idea, I love the industrial look to them, i'd be making a lightweight box mimicking the heater they were in, for a wall hanging. If you take the coat stand out, can it be split up into single sections?
Are the heaters not repairable? What will you replace them with?
Maybe wrap those in industrial rope and hang a pulley to lower them to the floor
i think that if you use a 12 point socket it wil fit those square nuts.
Look up a vendor manual for the steam heater.
I worked as an engineer in a government facility built in the 1950’s. When things broke I looked up vendor information for our maintenance team. When manuals could not be located, I would contact the vendor or the company that bought them out. Usually they could provide the information needed.
Yeah, I have the info plate so I know the manufacturer. I got some advice here. If I't doesn't work that will be the next step.
Have you thought about using clear glass and spray metallic mirror paint to create a mirror that looks old?
I'd love to get a genuine old mirror. But that's the first I have heard of that process. I'll look it up on UA-cam.
Block and tackle is all you need the more pulleys you have the lighter your object
So I've been told here, I am watching videos on that now. Thanks!
I can guess what you should do with it, scrap it! Push it off the scaffolding at the top.
If you're going to take things apart with nuts and bolts transmission fluid in acetone is your best friend and leave it overnight take care
Can you please wear some steel toed boots? You can step on a nail or drop something on your foot 😲😕 safety first 😊 just watched a Jamie Ray Vintage video they own a thrift store. She redid a hugh round compressed wood mirror her price was local around $350 shipped $500 I would price yours around $5-650 or more it's 100 years old and hugh just the glass alone will be pricey. I absolutely love the way you see things. So much like the way I do. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks, I will be posting sometime soon the final product!
Good afternoon, I don't know how many of the heater units you have removed, there is a pipe coupling between the unit and the main piping. If you break that free, you will be better able to handle the unit as all the excess piping will not be attached. Nice that you're working with a safety harness, but in order for it to work properly it needs to be attached to something solid in the ceiling, using the gas line or the electrical conduit is not really a good idea. Keep on doing what you're doing.
There is nothing else to hook to I thought about clamps to the joists but on the first floor we barely pulled the pipe hangers out with a vehicle. So I thought it would be safer. Not sure.
you might be able to use a pully puller or gear puller. the puller will push the shaft throught the fan housing. isn't that piping that you are taking apart, part of the sprinkler system. and would you not need that to make it code to be able to have the public enter???
I got forwarded a video on how to do this from the side since there is nothing above it to hook from. It requires two. So I now know how to do that.
The motor shaft should be smooth, not threaded. Take a pointed punch and drive the motor shaft out with a 2 lbs sledge. The motors probably still work.
I would guess they do. they are still in the original commissioned locations. Will be interesting to check.
@@brickandsole check the voltage before you try the fans. They might be 3 phase which you don’t have anymore. Should say on the motor what phase it is. If it’s single phase you can wire it up using the power you have. Make sure to check the voltage also
What are you going to doing for heat in the building? And water? Do you have the one working bathroom? There is a spray used by restorers that you can spray on corroded bolts and screws that losen it so you can get them off. You just spray it on let it sit so it can work its magic. Then you come back and you are able to undo the screw or bolt. My guess is those heaters have been up there so long that they are corroded with years and years of bird poop and dirt. The only way you can get them off is with the spray or saw them off.
since 1926. The city said I can turn the water on any time, but I want to get a plumber to check the lines before I have it turned on.
Please please please
With your cutting wheel of death, please make sure that the disc does not hit the ground/table/whatever when you set it down.
Any fracture and that thing will shatter/explode when you touch it to the work. When it explodes, the pieces will fly violently away and whatever they hit will get cut or stabbed with the pieces.
If that piece that geys hit is part of you, you will be in a huge hurry to get to the hospital.At 48:38 in the video, it looks like there are missing chunks at "5:30" and "8:00" on the wheel. When you set it down at 48:41 it is clear there is definitely a chunk missing at "1:30" on the wheel.
Never use a wheel that looks like that. Buy the big packs they sell, and any time it gets a crack/chunk/missing piece, throw it away and put a new wheel on. Those are an awesome tool. But when the wheels come apart, awesome is an understatement. So please be safe.
I would consider a chain fall and straps to lower the heaters. And anything else heavy. Wrap the strap a couple times around the "spider" that attaches the motor, then hook it to the chain fall. it will make lowering it a piece of cake.
www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-chain-hoist-996.html
www.harborfreight.com/3333-lb-capacity-24-in-x-2-in-axle-strap-with-d-rings-57271.html
Love this project. I would kill for this building. Warts and all. Looking for something similar. I would love to know how you found this place!
Extreme antique Hunter officially you're going to make a lamp out of it
actually already did haha. Will post a video about it in a couple of weeks. I am trying to release a video every 4 days or so and that one is in the cue!
I know this is an old video, but I can't help but wonder... How do you plan on heating that place if you're dismantling the heating system?
That is something I am kicking down the road. Don't know.
@@brickandsole In time it'll all come together. I've been binging through your progress videos from the past year and you've done a ton toward bringing that place back to life. 👍
use a block and tackle
Those old motors are less powerful for their size compared to a modern one,,, but they will last forever and can be repaired instead of having to be replaced.
I want to hook it up, I bet it still works!