Most videos say to use the factory edge since that is supposed to be straight. Once I cut the sheet to a workable size, I do all my other cuts on the table saw if possible. For dead-on accuracy in achieving exact final size and smooth cut, I often make a cabinet top 1/16" oversize, then use flushcut router bit to shave 1/32" off each side.
Best way is to leave enough edging around the outside that can be sanded inward and fit correctly. Always have at least a 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch overlay in size, then carefully sand it down to the correct smoothness along the edges. You'll end up with a perfect job every time. I'm in the middle of making a wood dulcimer sound box out of 1/4 inch plywood covering for both the face and back. I left at least 3/4 of a inch spacing all around the framework of the boxes perimeter so I would have any splintering at all when the box was finished. I'll use a small belt sander to get rid of that overlay without causing any splinting at all and have smooth proper edges all way around the whole box when done. I'll have a perfect job when finished. That is the best way to make things with Plywood.
George, great highlight of the AccuCut! One thing that I follow when using my AccuCut is to have the track on the cut piece, this fixes both problems you had with accounting for blade width and chip out. Just a couple things I learned, it's an awesome product!
Nik Guttormson The Kreg worked fine for this demonstration but, IMO, the rip guide and accu-cut just aren't enough for more than occasional use. However, the K4, shelf pin jig, and 35mm hinge jig are great for repairs and small jobs.
@@tracdfar I agree, the accu-cut is a diy'er tool for occasional use. one thing a good track saw can do is change depths quickly and accurately. that allows a quick backwards scoring cut and then the forward full depth cut. regardless of brand, unless a backwards scoring cut is done first there's likely to be blowout on the topside of the cut. maybe not on a rip cut on maple but definitely on oak plywood doing a cross grain cut.
Where was this video two months ago.. lol... oh well, I can make my next plywood cuts more efficiently now in the future. I enjoyed learning this method today. Keeping wood square is a challenge ... keeping them squared from cut to cut and the same size, well we have All been there.
A Sheet of insulated foam under your 3/4" ply keeps the saw cuts out of the wood. Also some crossmembers on your plywood table would better support the small pieces that inevitably get cut on it. I also have wheels on one end of my plywood cutting table to I can roll it out on nice days to work in the driveway, cutting down dust in the shop, and then also apply finishes outdoors for lowest exposures to VOCs and after applying the finish, roll it back in the garage and immediately leave the area to do something else in the house while it outgasses. A wooden hinge lets you hoist a 3/4" sheet by yourself without breaking a sweat. Lots of designs on UA-cam to start with... You should ABSOLUTELY be wearing breathing protection: woodworkers are 7 times more likely to contract emphysema in their lifetime, so you can never overdue protection from dust. Which also, starting at $154 these days on Amazon, which may be less than you paid for your Dewalt, you can buy a track saw system that not only plunges, but includes a dust collection port. Every shop should be using dust collection, and have a dust separator, nowadays buildable on UA-cam from under $10. I also like Story Sticks for every possible thing and to get the ultimate in repeatability in woodworking. So having a couple 1x2s cut to your perfect case depth here would let you quicker and more consistently set that cutting width but just butting the track up against them while flush to the end of the sheet. For very frequent cuts, like shelves for example, you can even make them into a jig that you hook over the end of the plywood with one hand, and butt the track tight up against it with the other hand. I think that's much better than cutting left hand and then right handed measurements with your track once on each side of the line you are trying to hit.
I've always been a bit nervous about using insulated foam under my cuts. I realize plenty of people do it. I know wood dust isn't great for you, but dust from any insulation material just makes me think of asbestos and fibreglass. Not sure what the stuff is actually made from . I just prefer to used scrap wood or old plywood sheets.
@@geodynamik - Understood, however Polyiso board contains no asbestos or fiberglass, and the MSDS shows no untoward risk, other than you should ALWAYS be cutting anything with a good filter for breathing on: www.dyplastproducts.com/msds-isoc1 Woodworkers are 7 times more likely to contract emphysema in their lifetime, so ALWAYS wear a mask. but hey, if you have scrap plywood, that's fine too with a mask.
The problem with using foam as a backer for cutting is the foam sawdust. Microplastics are a major environmental issue and every time your saw blade cuts into rigid foam you are contributing to the problem.
I've NEVER had a issue with the ends of plywood not being perfectly square factory ends.... In fact they are very reliable, as it's cut square in the machine during the manufacturing process.
Just making double sure... (I think). But most important is to cut off the edge of theplywood board in case it picked up rocks or maybe damaged. I am just learning.
Where do you get your plywood from...because all big box store lumber is out by 1/16th...If you are buying from a lumber store theirs may be square, but even then they are perfectly square. If you are building shop cabinets, probbly no big deal, but if you are building custom cabinets for a customer 1/16th, 1/32nd off is a big deal.
We have square cut std size is 2400mn X 1200mm and All of it is down to the mm perfect 9/10 Or better times probably cause of metrics measurement , and working in Australia is the same never had any problems with the sheets being off square or out of size as they are made and cut in very expensive CNC machine... May be different in China or America? I even trust them as a check for square if I don't have a square with me, that's how consistent they are.
@@kiwiingenuity1677 Metric has nothing to do with precision. It just makes the math easier. I do prefer metric primarily for this reason, though I live in the USA. Imperial is a pain.
I appreciate your thoughtful presentation as I’m attempting to cut some large sheets of plywood and foam board insulation. Do you think I would be fine to cut these items in my garage with the garage door open while wearing a mask and goggles? I don’t have an air filtration system set up in my work area. Do you recommend any additional safety requirements?
I'm now using the woodpeckers parallel guide and Festool track saw. Once you make sure the sheet is square you can cut away.I also use the Freud thin kerf plywood blade for Festool saw.
@@r.llynch4124 ...oh i purchased a MFT making kit cannot get it right and on top of that i have a GRS for my festool plunge saw/track...again having an issue getting right angled cuts ,,, I just cannot figure out what is is I am doing wrong
I always make the mistake of cutting plywood pieces on the "wrong" side of the table saw blade, and forget to subtract the 1/8" kerf from the fence setting.
redid a roof once...1/2 inch cdx plywood to redeck. was off square on 4ft edge 1/4 inch.....pain in the ass....finally realized what was up..recut on site/ increased gap between to compensate..(trimmed 1/8 inch off both ends)... so yeah supposed to be square... never rely on the previous person to do their job right...quick check; measure diagonals corner to corner; divide any difference in half , that will be how much its off square;if it is (be sure to set tape exactly the same and read on same side of tape) tolerance on cabinetry should be 100th of an inch minimum.
Im confused. When you made those final two cuts (one being .5" over, and one being the finishing cut) the first cut was referenced off the factory edge. Imperfections of the factory edge would have been transferred to your first cut (.5" over). Then you reference off your first cut to make your second cut. Wouldnt you be tranferring the original imperfections of the factory edge back to the second cut? Or is the goal here just to remove the poor factory cut? Im thinking its the same effect as trying to plane a board flat on a planer, when it hasnt been first jointed for flatness.
Hi Brian. The first cut is to replace the factory edge with a crisp/straight cut, and from there you establish a square panel. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Hi I thought the same, it does not make sense, perhaps the video should of ran a little longer to the point of all the pieces matching. I am still learning I guess but surely you would cut the longest side first (factory long edge) and make that hopefully straight then cut the short side off a little like he did and so on ?
What’s the point in squaring the side if you don’t make sure, when measuring the cabinet panel widths, the tape measure is exactly parallel to the bottom side? Unless the tape measure is exactly parallel to the bottom your track isn’t necessarily square.
Mathematically you're right but practically I think you can be off parallel by as much as 5 degrees before it really matters and you should be able to eyeball it that close. sin 85° is pretty close to 1, like 0.996. Of course it also matters how far your tape is stretched.
Looks like you're relying on the long edge you took the initial square off of to be straight. Should you straighten that long edge first before taking the initial square off of it?
It might be that that type of track has a semi flexible plastic strip right at the cutting edge, which would make it difficult to line up the square. Don’t quote me on that, I haven’t used the Kreg jigs.
See I'm always confused on how to cut plywood when cutting the length and width. Like if I'm replacing floor boards and the cut has to be 3ft wide by 4 ft long. When I measure and mark my measurement, do I cut the width and than cut again length??? I'm confused cuz if I measure my length and cut it how would I be able to cut width for same piece when I just cut the lengh off of main board 🤦🏻♂️
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Thanks for this video. What if you only have the accu cut track and not the rip cut. Can you still use the accu cut track to cut the width of the plywood? Do you have a video on how to do that.
We do not have a video that specifically covers that, but I think it should work. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer to be sure: (800) 447-8638 Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. CST Paul
Also, you can do crosscuts and rips with the track, it’s just not as convenient as using the rip guide. This would be done following the same track cut procedures that were outlined in the video.
Thank-you! How is it you aren't cutting into the 2x4 frame holding the top plywood? Is the blade set precisely to not go further than the plywood itself?
It can and does cut into the 2xs. But not much. You make the table outta cheap 2xs. You cut into it a tad each pass...but even though it gets ugly, it doesn't crumble. And if you ever managed to make the top so uneven, you could just flip the whole top over and start again. After that, you could just make another. You know, when yer 107 or so!
I was observant enough to notice at 3:18 you made a measurement mark in the middle of the plywood sheet. How did you get that track lined up to that mark without using your carpenters square?
I was going to comment almost word for word what you said. I noticed he made two marks on the next cut. I wouldn't expect to rely on the jig to be square or he could have done that while initially "squaring" the board.
Would the rip cut off the factory edge not influence your final cut? If the factory edge was not straight how does method ensure its square in the end?
When I saw him lean past the middle of the sheet to pull the measurement - I don’t see how that could have come out parallel to the first cut without a lot of luck. . First thing I noticed though was the thick pencil line on the first cut, Maybe to line up track to the line’s edge?
Thanks for sharing. But how can I know if the framing square is true square. I have several framing squares. Each gives me a little different 90%. Appreciate any help.
Set it on piece of plywood with one straight edge along the plywood factor edge. Use the other edge to draw a line on the plywood perpendicular to the factory edge. Flip the square along the factory edge. Line up the other edge to your line. If it matches, you are square. If it doesn't align, your square needs an adjustment. Paul
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Thanks for sharing the video! There is not a shortage of videos showing how to safely and accurately cut plywood wide-wise. I am in the process of building a built-in bookshelf, and I am really struggling at finding a good way to rip across the length of the plywood. Any recommendation on how to do cut plywood lengthwise, i.e. 8' long cut?
Hi Eric, Thank you for contacting us. Here's the way that I do it: www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-circular-saw-guide-cheap-easy-and-awesome/ This approach works quite well for me, and is inexpensive. For better precision and quality, you might consider something like this: amzn.to/3GdQBNk Along this this extension to give you up to 100" of rip capacity: amzn.to/35yyB3K Paul Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Thanks for taking the time to reply. This looks like a great solution. I feel like the 1kW motor of the skill saw coupled with the gyroscopic effect of the blade and motor makes it very difficult to control a straight line. I haven't seen anybody on UA-cam doing it, but I ended ripping the 8' 3/4" plywood with my pullsaw, it took me less than 10mn per sheet. And surprisingly, I was off just by 1/16" when checkig with a true edge! An other 5mn with my smoothing plane and it was as straight as it needed to be.
Did you have any trouble lining that saw up in the Kregg jig? In framing, I've used many of that style/model of DeWalt, and noticed that almost ALL of them have the base plate unsquare to the blade. If you cut with the blade on (or against) a straight line, then the sight guide is about 3/16 off that line. I can't use the rip guide in it because it pulls to one side. There is no adjustment to square up the plate. Did you come across that?
@@Wwgoa You must buy your ply at Home Depot. I'm sure your little sponsored trinkets are so much better than a $250K cutter that quality manufacturers use. I have cut more ply than you have talked about. 2 sheets in my lifetime were out. 2.
@@martyfarrell9459 oh wow $250k industrial saws! Why are you here then? This is a video for DIY hobbyist and he provides some good insight. Good for you for making square cuts, but howabout you leave some productive feedback next time.
@@zacharybailey4580 I said cutters, not saws. Learn how to read before you comment. These guys treat woodworkers like sh*t with their subscriptions. Wake up newb.
hi, just wondering...your presumed the longest side nearer to you for perfect straight. How can you be sure of that? in which case a good chance they will not match?
Hi Christopher, If you are in doubt of the factory edge, you could use a straight edge as a guide to re-cut that edge as a first step. Paul Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Wow; I'm surprised to see a response to a question on a video this old. I don't get responses from other channels on their older videos so I hadn't thought to ask on yours. Good job on following your posts 👍👍
I know it isn't in the same price category, but my Makita track saw has a button the lowers the blade 3mm. So I slide it along the track and make the scoring cut. Slide it back, pop the button and make the through cut. Only adds a couple of seconds and does eliminate the rough edge.
@@edwinfriedl2446 I recently watched a Stanton video and a Paulk video, they do a backwards scoring cut. On melamine a backwards scoring cut will yield a pristine edge. I'm about to sell my TS75 and use my Makita exclusively because that scoring knob is an awesome feature.
Hi Bob. You should check your framing square for accuracy by laying it against a straight edge and drawing a line using the other edge. Then flip the framing square over, put the same edge of the framing square against the straight edge, and see if the framing square aligns to the line that you had drawn. If so, you are square. If not, you will have to adjust the framing square by tapping with a punch in the corner of the framing square. Here's an article that shows this process: www.woodsmithtips.com/2011/02/17/is-your-framing-square-square/ Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Hello. As long as you are establishing a straight line cut, then another cut that is perpendicular to that one, it won't matter if your factory side cut is out of square. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
He's using two Mobile Project Centers from Kreg. www.kregtool.com/store/c64/work-supports/p419/mobile-project-center/ he ran 2 2x4s as stretchers on each side as intended. I have one of the tables and looking to get another for this very reason.
As others said, waste pieces of wood. I’ve also seen some videos where people are cutting on top of 3/4” or 1” sheets of styrofoam, which is intriguing. You’d need two 4’x4’ sheets to match a 4’x8’ sheet of plywood (me math good). And as the others mentioned, set your blade depth (whatever method you use) to just past the board you’re cutting.
Which is the best way to cut ply for accuracy and repeatability? Circular saw and track/cutting guide, (as in this video), or table saw? Looks to me that a well set fence on a table saw will give good repeatability where as a track guide will have to be set every cut giving scope for error? I want to upgrade to power tools and have a go at making cabinets but every video has a different method and opinion. Thanks for any genuine replies. Hope I haven't opened a can of worms haha.
Hi Andy, If you have space for a large table saw with a high quality sliding table, that would be your best bet for repeatability. Track saws are great space savers, and the portability is awesome, but if you want the best approach I'd suggest a cabinet saw. Something like: This saw: amzn.to/2AQyIWGThis sliding table: amzn.to/2SL0niF Hope this helps, Paul WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
For something more easily repeatable than the space saving track saw, and less expensive than the large table saw with sliding table, I've always found a handy compromise on my smaller contractor-size table saw is the panel-cutting sled I once saw Norm Abrams make on New Yankee Workshop, with a leading-edge fence and a single long runner extending out the trailing end. This addresses the drawback of trying to cut the first few inches of a large panel without wobble when using the rip fence. It won't cut all the panel sizes the other options will, but once you break down the ply with a circular saw, it'll true-up most cabinet-sized panels you need to do.
After you square up an edge the table saw can do the rest. That's if you feel comfortable cross cutting sheet material on a table saw. The fence of a table saw can only cut parallel to the blade not necessarily square. Its actually cutting a parallelogram.
Hi Larry. The end is squared up, then your cuts are made with the squared end as a reference. If you make your subsequent cuts properly, the panels that you cut will come out square. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa I don't want to harp on you, since anyone who offers a service to people should be proud. I just have a hard time following the way you describe things, in the video and in your post above. Many people understand you perfectly though, so I guess it's just different ways of thinking and understanding.
Hello, It’s not an extra cut. I always eliminate all factory edges from my caseparts. The edges produced by the saw are much crisper than the factory edges on the sheet, which leads to better joinery. So the cut is multi purposed. It provides a square end, and eliminates the factory edge. Thanks, George WoodWorkters Guild of America Video Memberhsip
Back in the day I would do the same; factory edges did not matter to my methodology as I used biscuit joinery for fabrication, however others who used more conventional joinery found the taper due to sanding that sometimes occurs around the perimeter a detriment to the final result. retired now, the few times I need sheet goods I simply have the home center make cuts to my near- net sizes and refine them at home, using my DeWalt radial arm saw, which, when I die, I'm taking with me BTW. ☺
@@Wwgoa but didn't you say that a rougher edge didn't matter because the parts is covered over anyway and that's why you turned the board over for the next cut, for the"zero clearance effect"?
I believe he only made the extra wide cut on the initial piece of that board, since it would be the only one to still have a "factory edge" on one side. He probably cut the wider piece down to size last, after cutting the other three 11.5" pieces, so he could use the same track setting. I was confused at first too.
The divine truth said here by our host is to make all you "rough" cuts a bit oversized, and then trim to actual when you can on the TS. If you really feel your plywood is "off" square, put your fresh cut edge against the fence though. Doing it my way saves so much time, and ends in the same exact result. Once your TS is set to correct width, you can cut one, or 10,000 pieces, and your cuts will all be consistent width, with parallel edges. All done without spending all that time measuring, and marking. Now for the top, and or bottom of your sheet, that is where I have seen the outages, so always trim them first. Interesting viewing about plywood. When you see how it's made you just know sometimes it's just a bit crooked going down that track. ua-cam.com/video/eF5LVBW1vl8/v-deo.html You Tube title, "Manufacturing plywood boards: then and now"
@@Wwgoa oh yeah. I apologize. I was watching on break at work and wasn't fully paying attention, as it seems. You flipped it over. Thanks for the reply.
This may have already been mentioned but, if you don't rely on the factory edge to be square, make sure your framing square is square. You can easily end up worse than you began.
@@kennethhunt6270 i think a few did, something missing ..I think he presumed the original long edge is fine. If it was then he is ok but is it really going to be straight?
Hello. I've never heard of anyone using BB for flooring, and it's not really intended for this use, so I can't comment on what you might be missing. I would suggest using a tongue and groove product for flooring. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Sorry George, I don't mean to be refuting you constantly today. Just seem to be commenting on the same stuff. I have heard people who have used baltic birch plywood for flooring. They say that it wears very well and looks nice. But I have to admit, I might be a little skeptical until I saw one of these floors after a few years of wear and tear.
Hi Nick, To get a straight 8’ cut you need to use an 8’ straight edge. Kreg doesn’t currently make an 8’ edge, but other companies do. Triton makes a relatively inexpensive track saw amzn.to/2QFeT9G and you can get extensions to cut to 8’. If you want to stick with your conventional circular saw, steel studs make great guides. You can buy them at most home centers. An alternative to a steel stud would be the 8’ long factory edge on a sheet of plywood. This article tells you how to make your own circular saw guide. www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-circular-saw-guide-cheap-easy-and-awesome/ (www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-circular-saw-guide-cheap-easy-and-awesome/) Hope this helps, George WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
@@Wwgoa Kreg just released an Accu-Cut Expansion Pack. It includes 2 more tracks that are 27.5 inches each. So you add this to an existing Accu-Cut or buy th3 Accu-Cut XL. The XL had 4 separate tracks that connect and make a 100" rip. Here is a link for the extension kit www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p464/accu-cuttrade-expansion-pack/
@@Wwgoa I'm not sure if I misunderstood you, but I own a Kreg accucut that is over 8' long which I'm pretty sure I purchased more than a year ago. I may be off on that though. Its the extended version of their regular accucut and comes as a complete package. I think you can also buy extensions to your existing accucut if you own the shorter version.
Robert Amsbury Wood putty will fill the voids but only necessary if the ends show or the void is so large it's a structural issue. Usually you'd edge band exposed edges, as on euro style cabinets. The best solution is to buy quality domestic or European plywood and avoid the problem altogether.
Fill with putty or apoxy and then edge band or face frame. Use a high quality plywood like Baltic birch if you want to use plywood ends as design feature.
Wes Rogozinski Also, the more plys in a sheet the smaller the voids, and probably fewer too. Veneered 13-ply plywood is expensive but it's usually very good quality with consistent overall thickness from sheet to sheet. The stuff at home depot is good only for garage cabinets and shelves, IMHO.
and tips straight from the experts! What??? Everyone should pull the saw out of the wood before the blade stops spinning. Love the dust collection, bet your lungs love you.
I'm not sure a circular saw is the way to go for that. I started using a dedicated track saw with a zero clearance guide rail and a decent blade. At that time, Festool was the only game in town. Since then, others have gotten into the market. But with either my Festool TS75 or TSC55 (cordless), I get flawless cuts on both sides, of the blade AND top and bottom. I can't imagine breaking down sheet goods without it now. The Kreg seems like a good entry point, but would be limited by the blade, saw design and lack of a true zero-clearance strip on the guide rail.
MySchizo Buddy I use a melamine blade but, frankly, I avoid melamine for residential cabinetry. It's heavy and weak compared to plywood and I've repaired and replaced many, especially uppers.
I got one of those rip cuts. The one I got that gray clamp will not lock down. Put any pressure on it and it pops off. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem.
Observant people would realize it's smarter to start the cut from the opposite side of the sheet stock, so that you can just line the guide up directly with the line.
Not only did he have 2x4's on the saw horses, he set the blade depth to just a hair deeper than the sheet of ply he was cutting. I'm sure there were slight cuts in the 2x4's but if you don't cut them too deep you can use them a long time before you eventually just replace them.
You're better off cutting them square and over-sized and then if you have a tablesaw you can cut it to final size on that. If you don't use a similar method to this to square up the plywood, you will rarely have square parts.
Do the gauges assist with keeping the framing square in place as you ran the line? I'm guessing so vs relying on just the narrow edge of the framing square.
I am sure almost everybody throw away nonworking over-the-ear headset once in a while. Watching you put on ear plugs constantly, I would suggest you cut all the cords from that headset and use it as a muffler. Cheap, effective and comfortable.
"HIS", He created Adam in His likeness, then He created Woman as a helpmate for Adam, simple really, God is Jesus Father and Jesus is God's Son, Woman only appear when God created Eve.
Joseph Padilla Ignore the haters! I think Kreg jigs are great for repairs and small jobs, especially the K4, shelf pin jig, and 35mm hinge jig. For larger face frame jobs, the Foreman is a dream.
At ua-cam.com/video/kNU127DhsKA/v-deo.html, how does he make sure the track is perfectly straight? I saw him make 1 mark in the center of the board. Did he make another one that wasn't in the video?
Hello. Once one end is cut square, which was done using the framing square to mark it out, you can measure from that edge in order to get subsequent cuts that are square. When the second cut was made one line was already on the plywood, which is why I said measure and measure. On the video you saw me make one mark, but the track was aligned to two marks, making the second cut parallel to the square edge. Thanks George-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Thank you for the response! When you use your tape measure though, how do you know that the mark you made is perfectly perpendicular to the edge you squared from? I fear that if there was play in the tape measure that I would make a mark that is the right distance but not parallel with the cut edge. Sorry for the newbie question, I am very new to wood working/measuring.
I always use the factory edge as a reference and I've never had a problem... factory edges should always be square... you are wasting material and ruining your yield by cutting that little piece off....
As a senior product manager for a $50 million/year cabinet operation, every tiny amount of waste can really add up! That said, we purchase over-length/width plywood and other sheet stock so that our CNC saws can cut off a piece on one length and on one width in order to ensure a square panel. That's industry-standard practice, because panels are, in fact, not as square as you might want them to be.
Bullshit , The plywood companies aren't carelessly hacking the ends off their product . Waste is one of their highest priorities . Many of these " gentlemen carpenters " have OCD . But what do you expect from someone who stops to put on ear buds and a respirator every time he cuts a 2x4 . LOL
Brian Jones - Nothing wrong with erring on the side of caution , even twerps know that . But it's the little twats and their protectors that take everything to extremes that are actually setting bad examples . What's next , you going to wear a little pink shop apron with matching pumps ? LOL ! Be a man and quit your bitching .
for as much time you waist putting in your ear protection you could call the saw by its name and not abbreviate something that doesn't need to be abbreviate
Most videos say to use the factory edge since that is supposed to be straight. Once I cut the sheet to a workable size, I do all my other cuts on the table saw if possible. For dead-on accuracy in achieving exact final size and smooth cut, I often make a cabinet top 1/16" oversize, then use flushcut router bit to shave 1/32" off each side.
Use the reference edge to measure along. If the tape if off from square when you measure, you will be marking short. Love the 2x table.
Best way is to leave enough edging around the outside that can be sanded inward and fit correctly. Always have at least a 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch overlay in size, then carefully sand it down to the correct smoothness along the edges. You'll end up with a perfect job every time. I'm in the middle of making a wood dulcimer sound box out of 1/4 inch plywood covering for both the face and back. I left at least 3/4 of a inch spacing all around the framework of the boxes perimeter so I would have any splintering at all when the box was finished. I'll use a small belt sander to get rid of that overlay without causing any splinting at all and have smooth proper edges all way around the whole box when done. I'll have a perfect job when finished. That is the best way to make things with Plywood.
You are so easy to follow and understand. Perfect pacing. Just the right amount of detail.
George, great highlight of the AccuCut! One thing that I follow when using my AccuCut is to have the track on the cut piece, this fixes both problems you had with accounting for blade width and chip out. Just a couple things I learned, it's an awesome product!
Nik Guttormson The Kreg worked fine for this demonstration but, IMO, the rip guide and accu-cut just aren't enough for more than occasional use. However, the K4, shelf pin jig, and 35mm hinge jig are great for repairs and small jobs.
Exactly
@@tracdfar
I agree, the accu-cut is a diy'er tool for occasional use. one thing a good track saw can do is change depths quickly and accurately. that allows a quick backwards scoring cut and then the forward full depth cut. regardless of brand, unless a backwards scoring cut is done first there's likely to be blowout on the topside of the cut. maybe not on a rip cut on maple but definitely on oak plywood doing a cross grain cut.
Good video. But, cutting through sacrificial 2x4s nowadays is a relatively expensive proposition
Sure is
Where was this video two months ago.. lol... oh well, I can make my next plywood cuts more efficiently now in the future. I enjoyed learning this method today. Keeping wood square is a challenge ... keeping them squared from cut to cut and the same size, well we have All been there.
A Sheet of insulated foam under your 3/4" ply keeps the saw cuts out of the wood. Also some crossmembers on your plywood table would better support the small pieces that inevitably get cut on it. I also have wheels on one end of my plywood cutting table to I can roll it out on nice days to work in the driveway, cutting down dust in the shop, and then also apply finishes outdoors for lowest exposures to VOCs and after applying the finish, roll it back in the garage and immediately leave the area to do something else in the house while it outgasses. A wooden hinge lets you hoist a 3/4" sheet by yourself without breaking a sweat. Lots of designs on UA-cam to start with...
You should ABSOLUTELY be wearing breathing protection: woodworkers are 7 times more likely to contract emphysema in their lifetime, so you can never overdue protection from dust. Which also, starting at $154 these days on Amazon, which may be less than you paid for your Dewalt, you can buy a track saw system that not only plunges, but includes a dust collection port. Every shop should be using dust collection, and have a dust separator, nowadays buildable on UA-cam from under $10.
I also like Story Sticks for every possible thing and to get the ultimate in repeatability in woodworking. So having a couple 1x2s cut to your perfect case depth here would let you quicker and more consistently set that cutting width but just butting the track up against them while flush to the end of the sheet. For very frequent cuts, like shelves for example, you can even make them into a jig that you hook over the end of the plywood with one hand, and butt the track tight up against it with the other hand. I think that's much better than cutting left hand and then right handed measurements with your track once on each side of the line you are trying to hit.
Shut up for fuck sakes
@@besideashed there always has to be some genius that wants to outsmart the teacher lol I agree. It's annoying as shit.
I've always been a bit nervous about using insulated foam under my cuts. I realize plenty of people do it. I know wood dust isn't great for you, but dust from any insulation material just makes me think of asbestos and fibreglass. Not sure what the stuff is actually made from . I just prefer to used scrap wood or old plywood sheets.
@@geodynamik - Understood, however Polyiso board contains no asbestos or fiberglass, and the MSDS shows no untoward risk, other than you should ALWAYS be cutting anything with a good filter for breathing on:
www.dyplastproducts.com/msds-isoc1
Woodworkers are 7 times more likely to contract emphysema in their lifetime, so ALWAYS wear a mask.
but hey, if you have scrap plywood, that's fine too with a mask.
The problem with using foam as a backer for cutting is the foam sawdust. Microplastics are a major environmental issue and every time your saw blade cuts into rigid foam you are contributing to the problem.
I've NEVER had a issue with the ends of plywood not being perfectly square factory ends.... In fact they are very reliable, as it's cut square in the machine during the manufacturing process.
Just making double sure... (I think). But most important is to cut off the edge of theplywood board in case it picked up rocks or maybe damaged. I am just learning.
Where do you get your plywood from...because all big box store lumber is out by 1/16th...If you are buying from a lumber store theirs may be square, but even then they are perfectly square. If you are building shop cabinets, probbly no big deal, but if you are building custom cabinets for a customer 1/16th, 1/32nd off is a big deal.
We have square cut std size is 2400mn X 1200mm and All of it is down to the mm perfect 9/10 Or better times probably cause of metrics measurement , and working in Australia is the same never had any problems with the sheets being off square or out of size as they are made and cut in very expensive CNC machine... May be different in China or America? I even trust them as a check for square if I don't have a square with me, that's how consistent they are.
@@kiwiingenuity1677 Metric has nothing to do with precision. It just makes the math easier. I do prefer metric primarily for this reason, though I live in the USA. Imperial is a pain.
It's cut parallel but not square.
I appreciate your thoughtful presentation as I’m attempting to cut some large sheets of plywood and foam board insulation. Do you think I would be fine to cut these items in my garage with the garage door open while wearing a mask and goggles? I don’t have an air filtration system set up in my work area. Do you recommend any additional safety requirements?
Thank you so much!!! Having to work on my house by myself. I love the guides you are using. Who makes them if you don’t mind me asking!!!!
I'm now using the woodpeckers parallel guide and Festool track saw. Once you make sure the sheet is square you can cut away.I also use the Freud thin kerf plywood blade for Festool saw.
I bet you spend more time looking at tools to buy than actually working with wood. Rookie.
@@martyfarrell9459 Awe another asshole on the intronet imagine that??? I build custom guitar cabs so fuck off
@@r.llynch4124 That Festool saw and guide look amazing, but damned expensive! You still happy with it?
@@58Tailfin Oh yeah. if your working with plywood, its the only way to go and a good investment.
@@r.llynch4124 ...oh i purchased a MFT making kit cannot get it right and on top of that i have a GRS for my festool plunge saw/track...again having an issue getting right angled cuts ,,, I just cannot figure out what is is I am doing wrong
Those saws on the right side of the screen are haunted
I always make the mistake of cutting plywood pieces on the "wrong" side of the table saw blade, and forget to subtract the 1/8" kerf from the fence setting.
redid a roof once...1/2 inch cdx plywood to redeck. was off square on 4ft edge 1/4 inch.....pain in the ass....finally realized what was up..recut on site/ increased gap between to compensate..(trimmed 1/8 inch off both ends)... so yeah supposed to be square... never rely on the previous person to do their job right...quick check; measure diagonals corner to corner; divide any difference in half , that will be how much its off square;if it is (be sure to set tape exactly the same and read on same side of tape) tolerance on cabinetry should be 100th of an inch minimum.
Im confused. When you made those final two cuts (one being .5" over, and one being the finishing cut) the first cut was referenced off the factory edge. Imperfections of the factory edge would have been transferred to your first cut (.5" over). Then you reference off your first cut to make your second cut. Wouldnt you be tranferring the original imperfections of the factory edge back to the second cut? Or is the goal here just to remove the poor factory cut? Im thinking its the same effect as trying to plane a board flat on a planer, when it hasnt been first jointed for flatness.
Hi Brian. The first cut is to replace the factory edge with a crisp/straight cut, and from there you establish a square panel.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Hi I thought the same, it does not make sense, perhaps the video should of ran a little longer to the point of all the pieces matching. I am still learning I guess but surely you would cut the longest side first (factory long edge) and make that hopefully straight then cut the short side off a little like he did and so on ?
How much do Kreg track saws go for now a days ?
I've had so many issues with the Kreg accucut. I'm constantly recutting the sacrificial strip.
I've had same thing happen. I think for me it was the black "sticky" strips losing their stickiness over time causing it to move a little.
What’s the point in squaring the side if you don’t make sure, when measuring the cabinet panel widths, the tape measure is exactly parallel to the bottom side? Unless the tape measure is exactly parallel to the bottom your track isn’t necessarily square.
Mathematically you're right but practically I think you can be off parallel by as much as 5 degrees before it really matters and you should be able to eyeball it that close. sin 85° is pretty close to 1, like 0.996. Of course it also matters how far your tape is stretched.
Looks like you're relying on the long edge you took the initial square off of to be straight. Should you straighten that long edge first before taking the initial square off of it?
Great question! I have submitted your question to our experts. Please allow 1-2 business days. We will post our response here. Thank you!
Yes, if it's not straight initially, you should start with that.
Paul
Made the first line using the shortest side of the square as a reference.
I would use the square to align the track and miss out the pencil line, otherwise a good video thanks
It might be that that type of track has a semi flexible plastic strip right at the cutting edge, which would make it difficult to line up the square. Don’t quote me on that, I haven’t used the Kreg jigs.
Best video for getting square starts!! Thank you!
Great help, just wondered if it fits the portable circle saws?
Yes the kreg railing system uses a circle saw
See I'm always confused on how to cut plywood when cutting the length and width. Like if I'm replacing floor boards and the cut has to be 3ft wide by 4 ft long. When I measure and mark my measurement, do I cut the width and than cut again length??? I'm confused cuz if I measure my length and cut it how would I be able to cut width for same piece when I just cut the lengh off of main board 🤦🏻♂️
For the first end to be square doesn't the reference end need to be straight? But how did you know the reference edge was straight?
Great Question! I would be happy to send your question off to the expert. To get started, Please provide the email associated with your paid membership. Thank
Thanks for this video. What if you only have the accu cut track and not the rip cut. Can you still use the accu cut track to cut the width of the plywood? Do you have a video on how to do that.
Great question! I have forwarded your question to our experts. Please allow 1-2 business days for their response. We will post it here. Thanks!
We do not have a video that specifically covers that, but I think it should work. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer to be sure:
(800) 447-8638
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. CST
Paul
Thanks sooo much for your help. I appreciate it.
Also, you can do crosscuts and rips with the track, it’s just not as convenient as using the rip guide. This would be done following the same track cut procedures that were outlined in the video.
Sir, Thank you very much for making it simple sense and steps for beginners woodworkers 👏🙏🏻👍🏻
Second verse same as the first, did you learn that in boyscouts? That’s where I first heard it 👍
Awesome information I must say I learned a few things like squaring up plywood. Thank You George.
Thom spillane n
Thank-you! How is it you aren't cutting into the 2x4 frame holding the top plywood? Is the blade set precisely to not go further than the plywood itself?
I have the same question
It can and does cut into the 2xs. But not much. You make the table outta cheap 2xs. You cut into it a tad each pass...but even though it gets ugly, it doesn't crumble. And if you ever managed to make the top so uneven, you could just flip the whole top over and start again. After that, you could just make another. You know, when yer 107 or so!
I was observant enough to notice at 3:18 you made a measurement mark in the middle of the plywood sheet. How did you get that track lined up to that mark without using your carpenters square?
I don't have experience with the Kreg track, but I'm assuming he relied on it's stop to square the track to the edge of the sheet.
I was going to comment almost word for word what you said. I noticed he made two marks on the next cut. I wouldn't expect to rely on the jig to be square or he could have done that while initially "squaring" the board.
There were two marks. Somehow, in the magic of editing, making the second mark wasn't included in the video.
Would the rip cut off the factory edge not influence your final cut? If the factory edge was not straight how does method ensure its square in the end?
When I saw him lean past the middle of the sheet to pull the measurement - I don’t see how that could have come out parallel to the first cut without a lot of luck. . First thing I noticed though was the thick pencil line on the first cut, Maybe to line up track to the line’s edge?
Thanks for sharing. But how can I know if the framing square is true square. I have several framing squares. Each gives me a little different 90%. Appreciate any help.
Great question! I will send your question off to George and our experts and he will reply here within 1-2 business days. Please check back.
Set it on piece of plywood with one straight edge along the plywood factor edge. Use the other edge to draw a line on the plywood perpendicular to the factory edge. Flip the square along the factory edge. Line up the other edge to your line. If it matches, you are square. If it doesn't align, your square needs an adjustment.
Paul
Ok, but how do you keep from cutting into the base boards of your "table"?
Or, maybe you did cut into them?
Great question! I'll ask one of our experts and share the answer here.
It's just a simple inexpensive cutting platform made of 2x4 construction material. It's intended for cutting into.
Are the saw guides a T-square end? Is that why you only made one measurement mark when setting the guide?
Hello, Great question. I'll ask one of our experts and get back to you right here.
Hi, what blade do you recommend to do a great cut in plywood? Using a circle saw? Thanks, like 80 teeth or 120 teeth etc
Round ones are best.
The best value out there
Why does the sign on the door read " I too will something make and glory in the making". It makes no sense to me. What does it mean?
It is saying, "I will make something, and I also will take glory and satisfaction in the making of it" But the sign says it in an abstract manner.
@@Badnella I think it's trying to sound biblical.
why not use a table saw to make the initial rips? just trying to learn, thanks.
Too big for most people to handle on the table saw by themselves. This method breaks it down to more manageable pieces.
how can i make a straight edge on sheet goods
Hello - The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing the video!
There is not a shortage of videos showing how to safely and accurately cut plywood wide-wise.
I am in the process of building a built-in bookshelf, and I am really struggling at finding a good way to rip across the length of the plywood.
Any recommendation on how to do cut plywood lengthwise, i.e. 8' long cut?
Hi Eric,
Thank you for contacting us.
Here's the way that I do it: www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-circular-saw-guide-cheap-easy-and-awesome/
This approach works quite well for me, and is inexpensive.
For better precision and quality, you might consider something like this:
amzn.to/3GdQBNk
Along this this extension to give you up to 100" of rip capacity: amzn.to/35yyB3K
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
This looks like a great solution.
I feel like the 1kW motor of the skill saw coupled with the gyroscopic effect of the blade and motor makes it very difficult to control a straight line.
I haven't seen anybody on UA-cam doing it, but I ended ripping the 8' 3/4" plywood with my pullsaw, it took me less than 10mn per sheet. And surprisingly, I was off just by 1/16" when checkig with a true edge! An other 5mn with my smoothing plane and it was as straight as it needed to be.
What kinda blade are you using?
Why didn't Kreg make the sliding base so that it is flush with the saw to avoid splinters on the right side?
Did you have any trouble lining that saw up in the Kregg jig? In framing, I've used many of that style/model of DeWalt, and noticed that almost ALL of them have the base plate unsquare to the blade. If you cut with the blade on (or against) a straight line, then the sight guide is about 3/16 off that line. I can't use the rip guide in it because it pulls to one side. There is no adjustment to square up the plate. Did you come across that?
Nope, the saw worked great with all the Kreg accessories for me.
@@Wwgoa You must buy your ply at Home Depot. I'm sure your little sponsored trinkets are so much better than a $250K cutter that quality manufacturers use. I have cut more ply than you have talked about. 2 sheets in my lifetime were out. 2.
@@martyfarrell9459 oh wow $250k industrial saws! Why are you here then? This is a video for DIY hobbyist and he provides some good insight. Good for you for making square cuts, but howabout you leave some productive feedback next time.
@@zacharybailey4580 I said cutters, not saws. Learn how to read before you comment. These guys treat woodworkers like sh*t with their subscriptions. Wake up newb.
@@martyfarrell9459 oh my bad. 250k CuTteRs. Thanks for helping me open my eyes!
the only way you can be consistent is to use some sort of fencing system like on the table saw...
hi, just wondering...your presumed the longest side nearer to you for perfect straight. How can you be sure of that? in which case a good chance they will not match?
Great question! I have forwarded your question to our experts. Please allow 1-2 business days for their response. We will post it here. Thanks!
Hi Christopher,
If you are in doubt of the factory edge, you could use a straight edge as a guide to re-cut that edge as a first step.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
how about using the table saw?
If you table saw can handle the sheet safely, then sure, that would be a good way to go. It can be cumbersome with a smaller saw, however. Paul
What are the guides you use on your framing square ? Look like small brass pieces. Sorry for the newbie question! Thanks!
Hi Justin. Here you go: amzn.to/2n4tzor Thanks-Paul
@@Wwgoa Wow; I'm surprised to see a response to a question on a video this old. I don't get responses from other channels on their older videos so I hadn't thought to ask on yours. Good job on following your posts 👍👍
If you do want a clean edge on all 4 sides of the cut a very shallow scoring pass works well.
I know it isn't in the same price category, but my Makita track saw has a button the lowers the blade 3mm. So I slide it along the track and make the scoring cut. Slide it back, pop the button and make the through cut. Only adds a couple of seconds and does eliminate the rough edge.
@@edwinfriedl2446
I recently watched a Stanton video and a Paulk video, they do a backwards scoring cut. On melamine a backwards scoring cut will yield a pristine edge. I'm about to sell my TS75 and use my Makita exclusively because that scoring knob is an awesome feature.
sorry i have a question. how do you square that edge off if you are unsure if the edge that you referenced your framing sqaure off of is true or not?
Hi Bob. You should check your framing square for accuracy by laying it against a straight edge and drawing a line using the other edge. Then flip the framing square over, put the same edge of the framing square against the straight edge, and see if the framing square aligns to the line that you had drawn. If so, you are square. If not, you will have to adjust the framing square by tapping with a punch in the corner of the framing square. Here's an article that shows this process: www.woodsmithtips.com/2011/02/17/is-your-framing-square-square/
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Hello,
What you use those brass pieces stuck on the square at 1:35?
Here you go: amzn.to/2n4tzor
Can i ask you what track did you use for the dewalt saw , we have a dewalt circular saw and this track would be perfect for our projects , thanks
Kregg
Accucut by Kreg
@@Dust4Vomit any good
But you used the side factory cut as a guide to rip the side. So if the factory side was out, your guide and cut will be out too??
Hello. As long as you are establishing a straight line cut, then another cut that is perpendicular to that one, it won't matter if your factory side cut is out of square. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Can you show your sawhorses set up?
Liliya Chernyak It looks like he used a ladder frame set on the saw horses. I went with a centipede sawhorse and love it, especially for this task.
He's using two Mobile Project Centers from Kreg. www.kregtool.com/store/c64/work-supports/p419/mobile-project-center/ he ran 2 2x4s as stretchers on each side as intended. I have one of the tables and looking to get another for this very reason.
Question on the factory edge. Do you think it's still necessary to remove if measures up accurately and it's going to be covered by a face frame?
Scott Free Travel
It's up to you but I always remove the factory edge.
This is a newb question I know but how was he able to cut at 4:02 straight on to the work bench with out cutting in to it?
He set the blade depth of his circular saw to the same as the thickness of the plywood.
His "work bench" is saw horse and waste 2x4. And yes setting the blade just past the thickness of the plywood.
As others said, waste pieces of wood. I’ve also seen some videos where people are cutting on top of 3/4” or 1” sheets of styrofoam, which is intriguing. You’d need two 4’x4’ sheets to match a 4’x8’ sheet of plywood (me math good). And as the others mentioned, set your blade depth (whatever method you use) to just past the board you’re cutting.
can someone tell me what brand saw horses these are?
Which is the best way to cut ply for accuracy and repeatability? Circular saw and track/cutting guide, (as in this video), or table saw?
Looks to me that a well set fence on a table saw will give good repeatability where as a track guide will have to be set every cut giving scope for error?
I want to upgrade to power tools and have a go at making cabinets but every video has a different method and opinion.
Thanks for any genuine replies. Hope I haven't opened a can of worms haha.
Hi Andy,
If you have space for a large table saw with a high quality sliding table, that would be your best bet for repeatability. Track saws are great space savers, and the portability is awesome, but if you want the best approach I'd suggest a cabinet saw. Something like:
This saw: amzn.to/2AQyIWGThis sliding table: amzn.to/2SL0niF
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
For something more easily repeatable than the space saving track saw, and less expensive than the large table saw with sliding table, I've always found a handy compromise on my smaller contractor-size table saw is the panel-cutting sled I once saw Norm Abrams make on New Yankee Workshop, with a leading-edge fence and a single long runner extending out the trailing end. This addresses the drawback of trying to cut the first few inches of a large panel without wobble when using the rip fence. It won't cut all the panel sizes the other options will, but once you break down the ply with a circular saw, it'll true-up most cabinet-sized panels you need to do.
Thank you so much all - for your help. Have a great 2019
After you square up an edge the table saw can do the rest. That's if you feel comfortable cross cutting sheet material on a table saw. The fence of a table saw can only cut parallel to the blade not necessarily square. Its actually cutting a parallelogram.
Why did you square up one end of the plywood and not the other?
Hi Larry.
The end is squared up, then your cuts are made with the squared end as a reference. If you make your subsequent cuts properly, the panels that you cut will come out square.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa I don't want to harp on you, since anyone who offers a service to people should be proud. I just have a hard time following the way you describe things, in the video and in your post above. Many people understand you perfectly though, so I guess it's just different ways of thinking and understanding.
I like to score a line on the show side
What brand of track saw are you using?
he's using a basic circular saw. with the kreg thingy almost any corded or cordless circular saw will work.
why not measure the sheet corner to corner to check square, instead of making an extra cut, and wasting material?
Hello,
It’s not an extra cut. I always eliminate all factory edges from my caseparts. The edges produced by the saw are much crisper than the factory edges on the sheet, which leads to better joinery. So the cut is multi purposed. It provides a square end, and eliminates the factory edge.
Thanks,
George
WoodWorkters Guild of America Video Memberhsip
Back in the day I would do the same; factory edges did not matter to my methodology as I used biscuit joinery for fabrication, however others who used more conventional joinery found the taper due to sanding that sometimes occurs around the perimeter a detriment to the final result. retired now, the few times I need sheet goods I simply have the home center make cuts to my near- net sizes and refine them at home, using my DeWalt radial arm saw, which, when I die, I'm taking with me BTW. ☺
@@Wwgoa but didn't you say that a rougher edge didn't matter because the parts is covered over anyway and that's why you turned the board over for the next cut, for the"zero clearance effect"?
I believe he only made the extra wide cut on the initial piece of that board, since it would be the only one to still have a "factory edge" on one side. He probably cut the wider piece down to size last, after cutting the other three 11.5" pieces, so he could use the same track setting. I was confused at first too.
this dude's effing awesome
The Stick strip doesn’t stay sticky
The divine truth said here by our host is to make all you "rough" cuts a bit oversized, and then trim to actual when you can on the TS. If you really feel your plywood is "off" square, put your fresh cut edge against the fence though. Doing it my way saves so much time, and ends in the same exact result. Once your TS is set to correct width, you can cut one, or 10,000 pieces, and your cuts will all be consistent width, with parallel edges. All done without spending all that time measuring, and marking. Now for the top, and or bottom of your sheet, that is where I have seen the outages, so always trim them first.
Interesting viewing about plywood. When you see how it's made you just know sometimes it's just a bit crooked going down that track.
ua-cam.com/video/eF5LVBW1vl8/v-deo.html
You Tube title, "Manufacturing plywood boards: then and now"
I thought half an inch isn't so much over size as inaccurate
That second piece you cut, the smaller one, how come you didn't cut that side to square it?
Hello. On that cut, the side was already square due to the previous cuts. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa oh yeah. I apologize. I was watching on break at work and wasn't fully paying attention, as it seems. You flipped it over. Thanks for the reply.
I had the kreg tool for repeating cuts but this is NOT 90° square. Conclusion: item returned
This may have already been mentioned but, if you don't rely on the factory edge to be square, make sure your framing square is square. You can easily end up worse than you began.
Wish I had seen this before I made my completely off square cabinet.
Great video man thanks!!
you did not mentioned the thickness of your saw blade.
I really do wish you had taken the time to show the whole thing. By explaining it just confused me more.
@@kennethhunt6270 i think a few did, something missing ..I think he presumed the original long edge is fine. If it was then he is ok but is it really going to be straight?
I’m considering 3/4” Baltic Birch ply for flooring in my home to save $$$, anything I may be overlooking?
Hello. I've never heard of anyone using BB for flooring, and it's not really intended for this use, so I can't comment on what you might be missing. I would suggest using a tongue and groove product for flooring. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Intelligence.
@@Wwgoa Sorry George, I don't mean to be refuting you constantly today. Just seem to be commenting on the same stuff. I have heard people who have used baltic birch plywood for flooring. They say that it wears very well and looks nice. But I have to admit, I might be a little skeptical until I saw one of these floors after a few years of wear and tear.
Anybody catch the Herman’s Hermits reference?
How do you make an 8 ft cut with a 4 ft guide?
Hi Nick,
To get a straight 8’ cut you need to use an 8’ straight edge. Kreg doesn’t currently make an 8’ edge, but other companies do. Triton makes a relatively inexpensive track saw amzn.to/2QFeT9G and you can get extensions to cut to 8’. If you want to stick with your conventional circular saw, steel studs make great guides. You can buy them at most home centers. An alternative to a steel stud would be the 8’ long factory edge on a sheet of plywood. This article tells you how to make your own circular saw guide. www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-circular-saw-guide-cheap-easy-and-awesome/ (www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-circular-saw-guide-cheap-easy-and-awesome/)
Hope this helps,
George
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
@@Wwgoa Kreg just released an Accu-Cut Expansion Pack. It includes 2 more tracks that are 27.5 inches each. So you add this to an existing Accu-Cut or buy th3 Accu-Cut XL. The XL had 4 separate tracks that connect and make a 100" rip. Here is a link for the extension kit www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p464/accu-cuttrade-expansion-pack/
@@Wwgoa I'm not sure if I misunderstood you, but I own a Kreg accucut that is over 8' long which I'm pretty sure I purchased more than a year ago. I may be off on that though. Its the extended version of their regular accucut and comes as a complete package. I think you can also buy extensions to your existing accucut if you own the shorter version.
Thanks for these insights. What do you use to fill the small voids on the edges?
Robert Amsbury Wood putty will fill the voids but only necessary if the ends show or the void is so large it's a structural issue. Usually you'd edge band exposed edges, as on euro style cabinets. The best solution is to buy quality domestic or European plywood and avoid the problem altogether.
Fill with putty or apoxy and then edge band or face frame. Use a high quality plywood like Baltic birch if you want to use plywood ends as design feature.
Wes Rogozinski
Also, the more plys in a sheet the smaller the voids, and probably fewer too. Veneered 13-ply plywood is expensive but it's usually very good quality with consistent overall thickness from sheet to sheet. The stuff at home depot is good only for garage cabinets and shelves, IMHO.
Once upon a time, "A" grade plywood allowed 15% voids per 4 x 8 sheet goods, dunno what it is nowadays, probably more though.
@@ThekiBoran you got that right!!
I always assumed plywood came square from the factory
@W. Adams squared corners
@W. Adams Haha 😄
Great stuff.
and tips straight from the experts! What??? Everyone should pull the saw out of the wood before the blade stops spinning. Love the dust collection, bet your lungs love you.
In double sided melamine, there is no good and bad side. You want clean cuts on both sides. How would you tackle that with a circular saw.
painter's tape maybe?
Router or you have to put a bad piece underneath. First time you cut half way through and than second cut alway through
I'm not sure a circular saw is the way to go for that. I started using a dedicated track saw with a zero clearance guide rail and a decent blade. At that time, Festool was the only game in town. Since then, others have gotten into the market. But with either my Festool TS75 or TSC55 (cordless), I get flawless cuts on both sides, of the blade AND top and bottom. I can't imagine breaking down sheet goods without it now. The Kreg seems like a good entry point, but would be limited by the blade, saw design and lack of a true zero-clearance strip on the guide rail.
Lawrence Becker do you also use a dedicated melamine blade?
MySchizo Buddy I use a melamine blade but, frankly, I avoid melamine for residential cabinetry. It's heavy and weak compared to plywood and I've repaired and replaced many, especially uppers.
I bet he cannot make duplicate cuts using a tape measure!!! He’s for sure a 1/32 - 1/16 off!!
I got one of those rip cuts. The one I got that gray clamp will not lock down. Put any pressure on it and it pops off. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem.
3:23 the observant or somebody with eagle eyes!
Observant people would realize it's smarter to start the cut from the opposite side of the sheet stock, so that you can just line the guide up directly with the line.
Man, I'm surprised you're not wearing a respirator with that plywood.
Agreed! That was a lot of airborne wood fiber in that small room!
Amazing-how did you not cut into the saw horse?
How was the track held on?
He had 2x4s on top of the saw horses.
Magic (watch the video again, he said it).
I want that tract set up!!
Not only did he have 2x4's on the saw horses, he set the blade depth to just a hair deeper than the sheet of ply he was cutting. I'm sure there were slight cuts in the 2x4's but if you don't cut them too deep you can use them a long time before you eventually just replace them.
Two words, Panelsaw, Tablesaw
Not everyone has the room or wherewithal to have these nice pieces of equipment.
You're better off cutting them square and over-sized and then if you have a tablesaw you can cut it to final size on that. If you don't use a similar method to this to square up the plywood, you will rarely have square parts.
Wait! What are those knobs on your framing square? Do you put those on or did it come that way?
They are primarily used when marking layout for stair stringers.
Do the gauges assist with keeping the framing square in place as you ran the line? I'm guessing so vs relying on just the narrow edge of the framing square.
I am sure almost everybody throw away nonworking over-the-ear headset once in a while. Watching you put on ear plugs constantly, I would suggest you cut all the cords from that headset and use it as a muffler. Cheap, effective and comfortable.
If I can’t rely on the factory edge of plywood being square, then life is meaningless and God has turned Her back on humanity.
Her?
@@scientist100 them
@@Beatty68x Us
"HIS", He created Adam in His likeness, then He created Woman as a helpmate for Adam, simple really, God is Jesus Father and Jesus is God's Son, Woman only appear when God created Eve.
Nice to see a respected woodworker who uses kreg tools.. I love em but get lots of grief from some ppl.
Joseph Padilla Ignore the haters! I think Kreg jigs are great for repairs and small jobs, especially the K4, shelf pin jig, and 35mm hinge jig. For larger face frame jobs, the Foreman is a dream.
Lol were you gonna pull the saw back by the cord
A bit of dust won't hurt you today, but it may do tomorrow. Pluricy.
At ua-cam.com/video/kNU127DhsKA/v-deo.html, how does he make sure the track is perfectly straight? I saw him make 1 mark in the center of the board. Did he make another one that wasn't in the video?
Hello. Once one end is cut square, which was done using the framing square to mark it out, you can measure from that edge in order to get subsequent cuts that are square. When the second cut was made one line was already on the plywood, which is why I said measure and measure. On the video you saw me make one mark, but the track was aligned to two marks, making the second cut parallel to the square edge. Thanks George-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Thank you for the response! When you use your tape measure though, how do you know that the mark you made is perfectly perpendicular to the edge you squared from? I fear that if there was play in the tape measure that I would make a mark that is the right distance but not parallel with the cut edge. Sorry for the newbie question, I am very new to wood working/measuring.
It's really cheaper to know and do your own stuff just to get that done is money thank you going and put up some cupboard doors
I'm amazed that you would rely on an 18-24" line from your square and assume you're square all the way across 48".
The track is the straight edge. In all reality, he didn't even need to make a mark, but likely did that just a reference.
yes his cut will be straight but chances are it won't be perfectly square perfectly square
Providing the reference line is straight it will always be square.
I always use the factory edge as a reference and I've never had a problem... factory edges should always be square... you are wasting material and ruining your yield by cutting that little piece off....
Danny Herrera
Those factory edges are almost always poopy, rough and/or dented/chipped. Do you build cabinets?
As a senior product manager for a $50 million/year cabinet operation, every tiny amount of waste can really add up! That said, we purchase over-length/width plywood and other sheet stock so that our CNC saws can cut off a piece on one length and on one width in order to ensure a square panel. That's industry-standard practice, because panels are, in fact, not as square as you might want them to be.
Bullshit , The plywood companies aren't carelessly hacking the ends off their product . Waste is one of their highest priorities . Many of these " gentlemen carpenters " have OCD . But what do you expect from someone who stops to put on ear buds and a respirator every time he cuts a 2x4 . LOL
And if he didn't use personal protection, there would be a different group of twerps complaining about setting a bad example.
Brian Jones - Nothing wrong with erring on the side of caution , even twerps know that . But it's the little twats and their protectors that take everything to extremes that are actually setting bad examples . What's next , you going to wear a little pink shop apron with matching pumps ? LOL ! Be a man and quit your bitching .
Run a kreg rip cut
for as much time you waist putting in your ear protection you could call the saw by its name and not abbreviate something that doesn't need to be abbreviate
I too will something make???????
Noticed, I did, that the attribution he left out, from Yoda it was.
Maybe it's religious beliefs..... makes zero sense, l would paraphrase with:- "The joy is not in the item but in the creating"
I facepalm every time i see those junk Kreg tracks