Been installing heating systems for many years and came across you video and thought it was first class. Customers need this information to help them choose their best options. Being based in London the majority of the properties are poorly insulated compaired with newer ones so exact heat loss calculations need to be made to insure you have the correct size boiler. Also consider lower running temperatures may require larger radiators but you may be upgrading these anyway, also the costs of heat pumps.
I am considering replacing a 30+ year old Potterton Kingfisher RS 50 CAT 1N boiler. The hot water tank iis gravity fed with an overhead tank. Thermostatically controlled power shower require such a tank. OJ Gas & Heating (a WB Accredited installer!) said that he will fit a combi, remove the hot water tank and replace the shower with another type. After watching videos and reading the forums, I am planning to fit a Greenstar 12/15Ri boiler. I can not fathom why a WB Accredited installer recommended fitting
I live in a 5 bedroom house with 19 radiators. My 4 year old boiler is 24kw on the CH side. I have 3 bathroom rads that will not heat up. There is water in them, the water circulates fine. But they will not get hot at all. Is it possible our boiler is underpowered? Most websites seem to recommend 30kw+ for that many rads.
@georgehughes5703 there's no airlocks in them. As soon as you open the bleed valve water comes out. I've tried it with the heating on and it literally sprays out under pressure. But its stone cold on 2 and barely warm on 1.
@@matthewnicholas6365 On all radiators (including the 3 in question) Set the the TRV to 0/close the manual inlet valve - which ever is fitted. Ensure to make a note of TRV position/how many turns (in 1/4 turns ie 2 3/4 turns) to close the valve. This will help put the system back as it was. At the barely warm radiator: Close the lock shield valve, making a note of how many turns (in 1/4 turns ie 2 3/4 turns) to close the valve. Fully open the lock shield valve. Remove the TRV and ensure the pin on the valve is free to move (it must push in and spring out). If manual valve fitted - fully open the valve. Start CH system.
Monitor the temperature of the barely warm radiator. Be prepared to bleed and top up the system. It/or the pipework may need substantial bleeding. When finished here (radiator hot or no change) close the inlet. Perform the same actions - in turn - on the other 2 (stone cold) radiators.
@georgehughes5703 done that multiple times with nothing. In fact, the barely warm rad is only barely warm right now as we have taken 2 out from downstairs during refurbishment. I'm suspecting taking those 2 out has allowed a tad more hot water to get further down the line
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Been installing heating systems for many years and came across you video and thought it was first class. Customers need this information to help them choose their best options. Being based in London the majority of the properties are poorly insulated compaired with newer ones so exact heat loss calculations need to be made to insure you have the correct size boiler. Also consider lower running temperatures may require larger radiators but you may be upgrading these anyway, also the costs of heat pumps.
Very well simple explained for everyone looking for advice. Great video 👍
Very good and clear English ascent, with the right information needed, thanks alot
Excellent video and info. clear presentation. Thanks. Peace be unto you.
I am considering replacing a 30+ year old Potterton Kingfisher RS 50 CAT 1N boiler.
The hot water tank iis gravity fed with an overhead tank.
Thermostatically controlled power shower require such a tank.
OJ Gas & Heating (a WB Accredited installer!) said that he will fit a combi, remove the hot water tank and replace the shower with another type.
After watching videos and reading the forums, I am planning to fit a Greenstar 12/15Ri boiler.
I can not fathom why a WB Accredited installer recommended fitting
I live in a 5 bedroom house with 19 radiators. My 4 year old boiler is 24kw on the CH side.
I have 3 bathroom rads that will not heat up. There is water in them, the water circulates fine. But they will not get hot at all.
Is it possible our boiler is underpowered? Most websites seem to recommend 30kw+ for that many rads.
"The water circulates fine" - how do you know?
"rads that will not heat up" - they remain stone cold or become warmer?
@georgehughes5703 there's no airlocks in them. As soon as you open the bleed valve water comes out. I've tried it with the heating on and it literally sprays out under pressure. But its stone cold on 2 and barely warm on 1.
@@matthewnicholas6365
On all radiators (including the 3 in question)
Set the the TRV to 0/close the manual inlet valve - which ever is fitted.
Ensure to make a note of TRV position/how many turns (in 1/4 turns ie 2 3/4 turns) to close the valve.
This will help put the system back as it was.
At the barely warm radiator:
Close the lock shield valve, making a note of how many turns (in 1/4 turns ie 2 3/4 turns) to close the valve.
Fully open the lock shield valve.
Remove the TRV and ensure the pin on the valve is free to move (it must push in and spring out).
If manual valve fitted - fully open the valve.
Start CH system.
Monitor the temperature of the barely warm radiator.
Be prepared to bleed and top up the system.
It/or the pipework may need substantial bleeding.
When finished here (radiator hot or no change) close the inlet.
Perform the same actions - in turn - on the other 2 (stone cold) radiators.
@georgehughes5703 done that multiple times with nothing.
In fact, the barely warm rad is only barely warm right now as we have taken 2 out from downstairs during refurbishment. I'm suspecting taking those 2 out has allowed a tad more hot water to get further down the line
Ideal
Prices are "flatulating" haaaa!