I Bought This $16,000 UTV For $3,000. How Bad Could It Be?
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- I buy a 2013 Polaris RZR900XP UTV for cheap after the seller gave up on it. Let's fix it. #Polaris, #UTV, #Fix,
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The following video features activities performed in controlled environments by knowledgeable persons. DO NOT attempt to duplicate, re-create, or perform the same or similar activities at home, as personal injury or property damage may result. 2vintage( Joe Weber, the persons shown in this video and ANY CONTRIBUTOR, ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY such injury or damage. ALL 2vintage( Joe Weber) CONTENT IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY.
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You know that made a huge bang when it went, that guy knew he was selling you a turd
Exactly! If he thought it was something minor, he wouldn't have sold it so cheap.
Previous owner said he was riding and it just quit - Ok in theory but what about the big bang and terrible noises of destruction. Makes for cool videos - Cool to watch the process
might just be deaf?
He sold it with a locked up engine. Any buyer should expect the worst.
That's for sure 😊😊😊
I like the fact you never swear or throw tools.
Agreed. I would not be able to get through a project like this without swearing and throwing tools.
That;s the beauty of the editing process. All that unwanted stuff is left lying on the floor of the editing room
@@troyfortune4124😅😂
Joe defines class. I'd like to shake his dad's hand.
Indeed. This one really tried that character trait I bet. The Dude is cool headed👍
Why all the haters saying stick to bikes? Those haters have never had the courage or money to take on a project like this. Nice job Joe you will bring her back to life so it can be enjoyed once again. Keep up the great work, I have a feeling you’ll be building a race car here soon.
Not a 'hater', but 4 wheels are just uninteresting. Terrible to work on as well, so not fun to watch. I was watching this and realizing how much I love motorcycles and why. I don't care what kind, modern MX or vintage side car, it's interesting and fun to watch. 2V is a great channel and entertaining no matter what, but it is a lot better with motorcycles.
I don't lack the courage or money to take on a project like this. 50 years of working on cars and motorcycles tells me I don't enjoy 4 wheels, but I still do all of the personal work myself because it has to be right. Motorcycles are a joy to work on. 4 wheels are not.
I'm in the side by sides suck camp. They ruin trails, leave trash everywhere, always go off trail. With that said I'm fine watching a repair video about one.
Everything he dose is fun to watch. Have a good think about it and then do what you have to do
Haters don’t want to learn about sxs or anything else,I like how he works on anything with a motor.how many times we going to see a 2stroke case being split? Sxs seems to be popular and if you know how to work on them and bikes that’s a bonus
Lol I agree I am not a huge fan of the bike vids but will watch but I find the 4x4's way more interesting..
As a former employee of the Polaris driveline plant in Wisconsin, and know- friend of mine that owned a shop fixing all kinds of Powersports vehicles, he often told me that Polaris keeps him in business as they are not as reliable as they are told they are. I saw many things that I will not tell you but some engines were questionable from the factory, and many of those models ended up not being favorable for the consumer, or for the manufacturer. I think this machine was abused, first of all they are not build to drive down paved roads at high speed. Second, I feel the engine was rebuilt to improve performance, and the engine was not rebuilt properly with a lack of loctite being used to the rod bearings. There is a lot of vibration in these engines and that’s why they have a counterbalance shaft in them, that needs to be timed or it will help to blow the engine. All of the performance parts, tels me the owner wanted a race machine, and didn’t use it in the right environment, and as I call beat it to death, then as usual lied to you about what happened, to get some money back, to buy the next machine to destroy.
yup, 100%
Probably told him it needed a carb clean. Just like everyone else says. If it needs a carb clean- clean it 😊
Sounds like a good assessment, Rod Bolt not being lock tightened in.
@steveperyer My son has repaired many, many quads - all manufacutrers. He told me to never buy a Polaris.
You lost me at putting loctite on rod bearings
The previous engine rebuilder probably forgot to torque the bolts that attach one of the rod bearings to the crank. The bolts came loose and then snapped off and caused the massive damage.
Exactly my thoughts.
The bolts broke they didn't fall out lol.
@lumpy5196 the bolts broke lol.they was torqued.
@@jerrywilcox9890 they came loose allowing a small amount of movement that amplified the forces on the bolts and then they broke. (I did not say the bolts fell out.) It's just a theory but it is possible.
I agree, hope joe sees this.
Love watching you work on everything You seam to be a very honest man and love watching you get things going.
Greetings from Texas. I'm betting a rod bolt was over torqued and failed, dropping the rod cap. The crank then trapped the bottom of the rod and blew out the cylinder and block. Was wondering why you did not have an engine puller. Those things can save your back and have a million uses. I have one and it is great. Even used it to pull out a fence post once. :) Keep up the good work! Love seeing a new video drop. Makes my day.
The bottom end was never rebuilt so it wasn't the crank bolt left loose by the person that rebuilt the top end.
@@robwatkins1547aftermarket rods say otherwise.
@@robwatkins1547 wrong, it's all aftermarket part, all of it. clearly marked and pointed out in the videos. try watching them, it helps you not look so dumb
@@mrb2917 Yes thank you
There was no oil in the filter because the seller drained an checked the oil/ filter . An refilled the oil after straining out the chunks ...what a dick you should reach out an tell him he's sucks
Bought an "engine hoist" a while back for working on an actual engine. I find myself using it in my shop all the time to lift and just take the weight off of things that have nothing to do with engines. They really are versatile.
Same dude. I bought one 2 years ago to work on a project truck. Bought it before I even got the truck 😂
Anyways, when I eventually did buy the truck it came with the motor I wanted already inside the truck. I used the engine hoist for just about everything but supporting an engine.
That's a connecting rod bolt Joe. And yes that case is definitely fixable I've seen a whole lot worse than that repaired. Shouldn't be a problem for a good welder
Thank you brother for listening to us, from a old guy who didnt have one till it was to late lol. Yeah your young with a strong back,we just want you to keep it for later in life.
Exactly
Mikeboring - I just reinjured mine by simply bending over the table to pick up my glasses.. 70 yrs young.
Joe, you should check the torque on the "good" rod on the crank to see if its to spec. Just my opinion. Thanks for a great video
Do a move on torque test.
Great Idea!
Search salvage yards for used engine. Or get case welded and buy the crank, rods,pistons, cylinder kit
I am learning alot here, Born in 65 and still learning. I started at 17 and waited 2 months for a relative to rebuild my th400 ,i finally got it after all that time, put it in my1974 j20 jeep. I started off to work and the front pump backed out into the torque converter ,dumped all the trans fluid into the road way half way to work. That was the last time anyone worked on anything i owned. I was dumb for not checking if the bolts were tight .I was told they never Torqued anything where he worked at the trans shop. Well alrighty . Great work on how you do things. Im pretty sure you can find someone that would give you what you paid .You could also look at salvage auctions for a totaled one with a good engine for a decent price.
Love the variety and diligence.Keep it up!!
As several have mentioned; the rod cap bolts weren't properly torqued when the engine was rebuilt/modified, previously.
Look at the rod bolts, and how they broke. They were under a lot of stress when they broke, and if they had any play, from improper torque, the bolts would have been stretching, and eventually break.
I'm so glad you finally got an engine hoist! You aren't going to keep a good back, if you keep bending over machines and lifting engines out!
You'll break even, financially, if you rebuild the engine. But look at the content views and ad revenue You'll get, if you rebuild? 🤔
Not much if you just part out the machine 😉
possibly not plasti gauged with new bolts
The bolt you found in the case is one of the big end bolts. It came out, then all the remaining damage happened after the rod came loose. It could be that the previous rebuild didnt torque it up, or there a fault with the bolt or the threads in the rod. Inspect that i suggest.
The bottom end was never rebuilt so it wasn't the crank bolt left loose by the person that rebuilt the top end.
@@robwatkins1547 That wasn't true, because the rods were aftermarket. Notice that the bolt found in the case was undamaged.
Watch the video again, that engine has not been out so it couldn't have been split. Even Joe said.
@@robwatkins1547 No, Watch at 36:50 where he says it was previously rebuilt
@robwatkins1547 yeah had hotrods bearings
Another honest seller I see. That thing would of made a huge noise wen that happened. Check the dash for the guys teeth because that thing would of stopped dead.
We were cruising at 40 mph, when the lower unit of my friend's outboard let go.
His 275# self was catapulted through the windshield, with him ending up in a reclining position, looking at me from the bow. My right hand death grip somehow kept me attached to the leaning post.
Won't do that with Cvt
😅😅😅😅
I'd just replace the entire engine.
Thank you so much for the second part. The curiosity is killing me to find out how you gonna finish that job and how is gonna look I can’t wait to see part. Thank you. I can wait to see more and your channel. Thank you.
Wow…….an engine hoist !!! Now all you need is a parts washer then you’re on your way. 😂
And a good air compressor ,,,,,and a ratchet with a handle longer than 5 inches
And a hydraulic table 😂
That damage is typical of a rod cap coming loose from inappropriate torque on rod cap nuts or the bolts just failed under high pressure.
Oh my that is a sad, sad day. Go for it man repairs is your forte. Most of us enjoy your struggles with finding and repairing the unrepairable. Following from my are chair as usual.
I'm wondering if whoever rebuilt it before maybe dropped the cylinders, created a stress crack that let go. That's a sweet machine overall. I think it's worth rebuilding it, and hanging on to for you and your wife, kids and dogs to cruise your property in.
It could have had happened in shipping cylinder could have taken a shot. Wouldn't be the first time one was damaged.
The only problem that had was the rod cap bolt broke. Maybe it was over torqued. Nothing to do with oiling. Once that cap came free, total carnage, taking out everything.
You could be right or it could be metal fatigue 😊😊😊
I think you're right as well. I believe the builder may have even missed that one rod bolt
Joe, thanks for taking us on this journey. Would love to see you rebuild it but when you don’t know the root cause for the failure you could end up with the same situation after you have put $6,000 in. What about buying a used engine from a part out.
Great job with the hoist, the only other improvement would be a leveling bar for easier fitment.👍
Love the variety of work you do!
The seller must of known something bad went wrong with that engine because it must of been a bang when it happened.
What if he was deaf?
@@bleakyfinder2692 and paralyzed? because that type of failure would be felt through the seat and floor, not just heard
That's not good Joe 😔💯. Your going to need a short- block, would be my guess. They knew what was up when it grenaded. Maybe find a wreak from copart that runs . Goodluck Joe 💯👍.🫡
Hey a motor at Polaris dealer is about $3,000 est. If you go that way the RZR is worth $10,000+
Plus get to use good parts from this one as spares.
he makes enough $ on these videos that every project doesn't NEED to be profitable to the tune of thousands of dollars, just fix it and keep moving fwd
Happy Days Joe Has Posted 🔥🔥🔥
After watching you work on so many different brands, I know I’ll never buy a Polaris anything.
Nice I get to enjoy my morning coffee and watch this
This was like watching Eric on I Do Cars, some serous malice in the combustion palace and the inspection port on that engine. That machine clearly sat idling at McDs drive-through when it died 😜
Looks to me like this guy was max throttle going down the road and one of those rod bolts let loose and wiped everything out bud. Just a freak accident I think. Weld up that case and replace the top end. Don't buy new cases bud, just weld it up, it'll be fine.
He can probably find a crankcase from someone parting out a machine that old.
@@Chris_at_Home that's prolly true. He's got a good following so I'm hoping a fan will maybe have one for him.
@@_CryptoNoob_ My machine is getting old just like me, but it’s got low miles. It’s a 2017 Ranger 900 XPS. It just went over 1,100 miles. I spent 2 hours washing the mud off it from a 3 hour ride out to our remote cabin and back with my son last weekend. It’s set up pretty good with bigger tires, 2” lift kit, windshield with wiper and suicide metal half doors. I wish it had a heater. I’m in my 70s.
@@Chris_at_Home never too old to enjoy your time my friend!! I'm just reaching 50 and I'm trying not to let Ole father time creep in lol
Great video bro as always! I’m leaning towards an assembly error during rebuild. If I was gonna guess I would say the rod cap bolts were not torqued correctly and one let go which then cascaded into carnage. Anyways keep the content coming. You’ve found your niche for sure!💪🏻🤗
He forgot to mention before it shut down it sounded like a shotgun went off. WTH
I’ve seen this scenario once. Guy was stuck sideways in a hole. Kept idling til pulled out, which was several minutes, oil wasn’t hitting the pump all oil was loaded on one side snuck up under rings on the loaded side. Smoked the starving side. Had to do a complete overhaul as bearings on one side was shot. It ran the entire time until it was back on all 4 wheels and it wasn’t but a second later it just jammed to a stop. Wouldn’t turn like in your scenario here. Inside parts changed color due to the heat and lack of oil. Local mechanic said once they change color the hardness of the cam is changed and would not recommend using scorched parts over again. They are weaker. Several weeks later, couple thousand deep in it, back running again.
Rebuilt it Joe I got faith in ur work I feel confident ul make it right definitely a challenge but u got this keep up the good work
Very interesting. Your analysis in my nonprofessional opinion was spot on the mark. So that leaves one point and that is material failure, which is a large issue, which leads to the microscopic word that is not comprehensive. To sum it up, previous assembly flaw or material failure.
My guess is rod bolt failure. Lots of used cases on ebay.
After watching this video on this razor showing the intelligent t-chain design I'm glad I purchased the can am
That UTV has been ragged within a inch of it's life. That seller full well knew that that engine was toast. Joe you need to be a 'bit more sceptical when buying.
He knew what he was getting has nothing to do with the seller.why he got it cheep.seller didn't know the damage he didn't open it up to find out.
Great coverage videos on the RZR Joe,I always love watching your videos,very informative & your persistence is legendary!!!
Worked for Caterpillar many years ago machining engine and fuel injection cases and cams. Not all manufacturers take the time to magnaflux 100% of their machined replacement engine parts for cracks. There can also be a problem called porosity with castings that make it past inspection sometimes and out in the field can and will cause catastrophic failure.😁
@@Shagnasty-bo5bj Peoria?
@@terryallard1918 Also Pontiac!
@@terryallard1918 Also Pontiac!
Really loving this breakdown, good diagnostic skills BUT next time you spot a damaged ratchet strap drop the load and replace it immediately , next time you might not be so lucky 🇬🇧😊
Just buy a reconditioned engine...😊 Good luck can't wait to see the next video
Yeah for $4000.... It's not worth it.
If it was mine I'd either part it out or find a good Hayabusa salvage engine or equivalent and mod it to fit this buggy. These Polaris flat bearing engines are not good hot rodder engines
Or... Stay with me guys... Fix the one you got if you want
My thoughts for many of his projects include swap (similar engine) or UPGRADE (new or bigger) engine. He has far more patience than I, I'd have taken a sledgehammer or match to it long ago.
@@thebigguy8306 when you mod something it really cuts down the amount of. People who can work on it and understand what you did. He keeps them stock to sell them but I tried swaps man and it's more of a nightmare than just doing it right
The failed rod bearing spun and blocked the port, something broke as a result and clogged the oil pump, and then all hell broke loose, is my guess. The seller must've known it was a catastrophic failure because that thing would have made a big noise and spit oil out of the case. Assume everyone is lying. It's why if you ever see clean oil in an engine you are possibly going to buy, it is a huge red flag. Start looking for a used engine, I guess. You can't trust anything that came out of that one. Good luck. I think you'll still do OK on it.
Where is the thrust bearing and the other rod bolt
Joe;
Whether the rod bolts were over or under torqued, the engine was definitely assembled by an unqualified person. The thrust bearing surface was way to tight, as evidenced by the heat marks and damage on both sides of it. A qualified engine builder would have known to check the clearance there before final assembly.
The crank and case should have gone to a machine shop for proper clearancing.
Someone just bought parts and slapped it together and sent it.
For screws that don't want to come out, use a no drill, "hex head screw extractor"
Need a touch more mojo from a pneumatic tool.. Spray WD40 or another favorite penetrant in the air line connection before you hook your hose up. Make the motor spin faster.
I think that it was lack of lubrication. The center rib of any engine is designed to hold the crank front to back with a close tolerance. The reason that is all chewed up is because it was not getting enough oil through the crank. That's all I know. I love your videos and watch them religiously. Living in northern Michigan and having motorcycles and 4 wheelers my whole life your channel is fantastic.
engine would have shown more evidence of a lack of lubrication. if there was a blockage to that journal everything behind that jouirnal would also have starved for oil and would show evidence of that. My opinion is improperly assembled and torqued parts, either over or under torqued.
Wouldn't the crank and bearings have signs of heat and wear from the lack of lube?
@@empiresrikesfat absolutely!!
With the oil filter being empty I have to lean towards oil pump failure. I also think the previous builder failed at some point of the build to assemble correctly. Possibly didn’t torque to proper settings or using locktite , it’s hard to say for sure. But I’m sure you’ll get it fixed in the end but it’s going to be costly. Good luck.
Agree. The empty filter is the biggest smoking gun to me.
1k swaps are exponentially cheaper than stressing over a windowed case half on a 900.
Joe.. That Con rod bolt broke.. I'd say improper torque to the bolts started the chain of events
There is an oil check valve that can get stuck on these engines (maybe it was just the 800cc models), and the fix was to replace the check valve with ball bearings. Also, if the engine failed, the oil intake could be full of crap (mine was), even though it wasn't visible. I used brake clean and tapped the oil pickup on the table until it was clear. Way too much crap came out of it. Those engines aren't the same quality as japanese engines, but they can still be good. No matter what, you still got a good deal on that machine. New engine and you are good to go.
Hi Joel great video I think you’re onto something with that rubbing on case where crank sits when rotating seemed stiff and not free it would get super super hot i think it’s been rebuilt wrong check your parts and tolerances torque specs etc unlucky with this bud am sure you’ll solve it if you do rebuild it 👍
My guess is an over or under torqued rod bolt. It came out/broke and when the crank came around it bent the rod and broke the cylinder. Personally I'd part the thing out unless you can find a decent motor worth rebuilding. Thanks for sharing, your content is enjoyed and appreciated.
I like all your video regardless of the content. They all have great content and very informative and great clear video. I am also glad to hear you don't sell yourself to promote other products and give your honest opinion good, bad or other. your not affair to step outside your comfort zone and tackle new things. as for his project they are ATV salvage yard loaded with these wrecked or rolled over that they part these out all the time. They will not ship you a motor that is not in working condition. it would be a good idea to look into this option. KEEP THE VIDEOS GOING.
The seller totally lied, they knew they blew up the motor and ruined the case!
Keep up the good work have learned alot from watching like the detail u put in I've always worked on cars and trucks with grandkids its atv utv and bikes
Get you a magnetic induction heater. 20-30 seconds on the heads of those bolts and they come right out!
I have that same engine hoist (cherry picker) in my workshop. My sister bought it for me years ago, when I offered to change the engine in her Ford Ranger.
Looks like a rod bolt came loose or was not torqued possibly. Only 1000 miles, seems like something was not put together right. Hope you can get it running Joe!
Joe, I think that the cap on the rod that failed may have been incorrectly installed or one of the two bolts may have failed. if the rod Berring had failed due to lack of oil it would have shown signs on the crank of a spun Berring.
When you have a ratcheting wrench or a ratchet attached to a nut you do not usually have to pull the breaker bar and reposition on the bolt like you did around 13 minutes. Usually if you turn the bolt back in a tightening motion, instead of tightening, the bolt also turns so the ratchet lets it go. Not a huge value tip but it has saved me tons of time in certain situations.
I think you should rebuild it! I’ve not seen you rebuild an engine with those kinds of crank bearings. It would be a really interesting watch. Go for it buddy!
Joe that engine hoist piston theirs a upgrade we we got from harbor freight it works off air compresses thing it was extra $100 but well worth it no cranking you can just push a button. Might be something to look into. Love the content keep up the great videos. :)
From what we could see, I think the failure point was the connecting rod bearing on the piston in the shattered cylinder. As you mentioned, this was a rebuild and the majority of the damage was caused by the con rod. So, they might have used the old bearings or may have not properly seated the bearings. Bearings spin, friction, heat, lockup. All hell broke loose from there. The plug you found in the oil pump (probably a piece of the crankcase) might have blocked the main route for oilflow to the filter--so the filter mount bypass unit senses the over pressure and uses its bypass circuit to send non-filtered oil around the blockage and directly to the engine. Sorry, can't help on the decision to invest a shitload of money in it or not. I'm not smart enough to figure that out, but I suspect you would have to hold on to it a while in order to find the rider that sees the value in a quality used unit in top condition with a new modern engine. Or some thing like that. Hope that helps and good luck. And thanks for giving us great vids on your work. Cheers.
Part it out Joe. Yes it's a lot of work but You're already half way there. This present engine has already had a rebuild and you don't know why. Only other altenative is a used engine but as yet you haven't inspected the transmission. If you stop now you could possibly recover your financial investment and put your hours down to experience. If you invest another 3K in parts there's still no guarantee that everything will work for an extended period. If you kept it you would want to know that it's reliable and if you sold it you would like to know that it's reliable. Your reputation is worth a hell of a lot more than 6K.
What a bummer hey, if this costs you more then 2k, maybe its fun to put a different engine in? hayabusa engine lol (maybe some yamaha or honda egine fits?) great video again man, hi5
Go ahead and replace the motor with a used one that you rebuild. I like seeing the different toys you bring home.
Everyone says Polaris has their shit together. I beg to differ. I have found weak spots on almost every machine I've worked on. Suspension, steering, electrical, drive train etc. Definitely not a fan, but I'll work on them all day. Great video content as usual Joe! Please stop using tie down straps with your hoist. Just lookin out for my boy Vinnie! ❤
Sorry for your loss my friend I hope you have a better day Daniel wolfman
With those cylinder liners, you can weld that block. No pressure issues.
Hey there, I think whoever rebuilt the engine forgot to tighten or torque the rod bolts! Thanks for the content, have a good day.
There is no way that seller didn't hear that engine blow up. I'm speculating the bolts to the rod came loose while riding and it was just a matter of time. To bad though. If your gonna rebuild it Definitely would get another case. Or look for another motor. Unless you think you can make back your money on parting it out on marketplace. Sometimes you have to take a loss on things. Good luck with your decision.
I think the conrod bolts failed first, no signs of overheating in the journals. Maybe over-torqued during assembly or re-use the old ones. Other damages are after the fact. Looking forward on the rebuild. Thanks
I have a button on my iPad that allows me to move on from content that I am not interested in watching. Great invention.
Yet you took the time to comment, lol. Nice job boober!
On the cam chain, just remove one of the links and attach the new chain to an open link and feed it around the crank shaft, remove the old section of chain and re attach the master link onto the new section of cam chain.
Did seeing that rod through the case hurt 😢 PO definitely knew it had a catastrophic failure internally but that’s no surprise. Not a SxS guy but enjoy seeing you work on them
I agree! torque may have been an issue!
I have to agree with those that said rod bolt failure, I worked in a machine shop for few years and seen this same type of damage done when rod bolt broke or came loose and rod let go destroying everything as it spun those last few revolutions, either mech error when torqueing those rod bolts or one of the bolts cracked and finally gave up, could be caused by possible over revving the motor.
Love the vids!
If it was an oil pump issue you would have seen a lot of issues with the bearings (scoring and heat marks on all journals and even top end) and if it overheated from the crank rubbing the case there would only be heat in that area
Guessing rod bolts were either over torqued or under torqued or factory defect on the rod
Cheers
Can you please please start using minty Jade's toothbrush to clean some of these parts 😂😂
Nice job dissecting and it’s obvious that the rod cap bolts failed. Friends don’t let friends buy a Polaris!
Joe! On your new lift, you should store it with the hydraulic ram down inside otherwise exposed to the air it will Rust!
Joe posted and I'm at work. Will have to catch tonight. Don't forget to give him LIKES.
Definitely Rod Bearing failure first. There is evidence of the piston contacting the head prior to the rod cap breaking off. You can see the top of the piston is chipped where it contacted the sharp edges of the combustion chamber on the head. Also you can tell the piston was smacking the head. One thing that seemed strange is that both rod caps were stamped with number "2". Normally when disassembling a multi cylinder engine, you would stamp both the rod and rod cap with the cylinder number that it came out of. If the engine was previously rebuilt with "HotRods" connecting rods (assuming aftermarket replacements), why would both rod caps be stamped with the number "2"?
Good job on the purchase of the engine hoist. Although... I think I would have went with the 2 ton... you never know when you will need the extra reach and weight in the future...
The look of the hoist LOOKS like the, much larger, ones that I’m used to. Am wondering if the legs extend as well. And, yes, it IS “about time”😊
I’ve suggested speaking with Vince at Mr Crankshaft in Kentucky on past videos. Suggest again you do on this one too. Let him explain what he sees in terms of out of round journals with hot rods cranks and what happens as a result.
The rod being so bent without breaking apart suggests extreme heat at time of failure. If you have the means to check for any broken, stress cracks or worn down areas changing clearances on all parts & pieces I would strongly suggest to do so.
Joe when they installed HotRod components they forget to torque the connecting rod bolt on the one piston.
I had this same issue with a Mitsubishi. One rod bolt loosened off then the other bolt broke. The issue was careless assembly, not oil starvation, look how the rod journal surface finish is gleaming. There are no signs of heat either.
Previous owner had to of known there was a big hole in the block from all the oil and anti freeze that must of came out, you need to start bringing a telescopic mirror with you and have less trust in people.
29:39 probably a rod bolt for the cap
Fix it, Or sell it, Only you can make that call,
I would like to see it up & running again!
I'd put that machine to one side and keep a look out at the auctions for a smashed up one with a good engine, use the good engine and parts out and good left over parts or put them into your parts stock.
The only thing that spring to mind is that the big end bolts were too tight/ over torqued on lunched piston, Good luck.