Waves and Longshore Drift: Coastal Processes Part 4 of 6

This covers how waves transports and deposits sediment through the processes of refraction, diffraction, reflection, swash, backwash and long shore drift. This also includes a section on how people have tried to deal with coastal erosion through the building of sea walls, groynes, and other hard structures.

[@Geographicvideos]

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[@cynthiajose7787]

Very good explanatory video. I prefer this over plain animation any day. Thank you Darron, for this great help to us Geography teachers.

[@patrikbengtsson363kagy5]

Love you film Darron! Informative and beautiful footage. Keep it up! Patrik from Växjö, Sweden.

[@lindseyd2531]

Really helped me study for my test. Thanks!!!

[@Brandon-ng5mv]

Great video

[@gl4ssmooshr00m]

nice video, still don't know what a "sput" is though

[@nasreenyusuf7780]

great vid

[@atanusingha7403]

anyone can tell me what is the difrrent between backwash wave and rip current????

[@Geographicvideos]

Backwash is the wave washing/ withdrawing back down the beach after it has come in (Swash). A rip current is when two long-shore currents travelling in opposite directions meet and cause a rip current to shoot out to sea. If you type in manoa.hawaii.edu/exploringourfluidearth/physical/coastal-interactions/wave-coast-interactions and look at figure 5.19 you can see a decent diagram of this. From the air the rip will appear as a calm area (but is deadly) surrounded by surf.

[@atanusingha7403]

ok thank you. but can you tell me that backwass wave is dangerous for swimmer or bathing people??

[@futurebounds]

A backwash is just a way of transporting materials so it isn't as dangerous. A rip current is relatively dangerous due to the sharp out-kick from the meeting waves. This rip current is twice the normal size and could catch swimmers off guard if they're in the wrong place at the wrong time.

[@stevetimothy7540]

@@atanusingha7403 there spelt diffrent

[@andrewmitchell7998]

Waves and longshore drift can shape tropical coastlines too. I have written up how longshore drift and tides shape a local creek mouth in Cairns, Queensland Australia. queenslandcoast.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/the-secret-power-of-ordinary-coastal.html. Thanks to Darron for putting names to the different components of the process.

[@Geographicvideos]

+Andrew Mitchell Nice looking website. I have not been to Cairns but it looks great.

[@Prince-ye8yv]

lol i have to watch this for meh class :3

[@creamify]

San clemente