How to Check Welder Output Amperage A Simple TEST
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- Опубліковано 1 вер 2022
- How to Check Welder Output Amperage A Simple TEST . Make sure you are getting what you paid for! Today I'm testing a YesWelder MIG Pro250 and a YesWelder MIG 205DS to make sure they are putting out the amperage they advertise. In this video I show you how to verify that the welder you just purchased is putting out the amperage the manufacturer claims. There is a lot of talk on the internet about folks purchasing welders that don't seem to live up to that claim. This is how you can check and see that you are getting what you paid for.
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Another great video!!!!! Thanks for taking the time to do these test. Have a great Labor Day weekend!
Thank you! You too! :)
Thanks Brandon ! Hope you have a good Labor Day ! Straight Ahead ✌😎
Thanks! Same to you Mike!
Right up my alley, for sure! Nice to know that those machines will do what they advertize doing. It is and easy check for all of us to do on our machines as well, provided we are so moved!!! Those clamp on meters are wonderful. Also, the +/- 10% rule applies and they are right on. Thanks for your efforts and such an informative and pertinent demonstration. Be well, be safe, be Blessed!!!
Thanks Jim! Just so I get this right, if it's within 10% of the rated output it's within range correct? I know you know a lot about this so i apprciate you input. Be blessed brother!
@@BrandonLund It is a "rule" in electronics and can be applied to lots of things. Nothing is perfect. Measurments is one thing that the rule does not apply. If you need a 12" board or metal length, it needs to be 12"! In electronic circuit analysis (troubleshooting for a problem), if the values needed are withing 10% of the rated value (either over or under), it is an acceptable range. If for expample, you need a specific voltage in a circuit (example: A supply voltage need to be 90 volts, if you read 80 or 100, it is acceptable) and can move on to doing more trouble shooting. The values you read for the current draw were withing that range and were acceptable.
@@jimmacsuga2592 Good to know! Thanks for sharing! This type of stuff helps all of us!
@@BrandonLund It may not completely apply in todays precise circuitry in computers, televisions, etc., but in the "old school" ways of trouble shooting the rule does apply save for certain types of circuits. When I say old school, I mean prior to 1990!!! But, it does apply for thy types of readings that we have been discussing.
Im sure its close enough for these purposes.
Thanks! Good showing on actual amps! We should know what we are paying for on a machine! 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great little test, thanks for sharing!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
I bought a new mig/ MMA giantz 300c allegedly rated duty cycle of 25%@300amps, 100%@160. The compliance plate reads 160amp max MMA output and 170amp max output mig. I questioned the seller before purchase. I requested a picture of the compliance plate which they insist could not be done because it was boxed. Feel like a blunt tool because it was too good to be true, and it was. Please keep doing real world tests, cheers Steve
Thanks man! I'm sorry to hear about your bad experience.
I do need some aluminum projects done and that machine is the ticket! I hope the longevity is as impressive as its abilities! Another good video Brandon thanks!
Thanks man. Hopefully if things work out right I will be picking up an enclosed trailer soon and welding up some aluminum work benches and things. It might be a series of aluminum projects with all the reguslar tips and tricks inside.
Hey Brandon, again a great and clear video, full of information, thanks and I wait for the next one. By the way, I keep find it a great machine. Greetings from me and have a nice day.
Awesome, thank you!
Great demonstration, thanks Brandon 👍😁
You bet! Thanks Dave
Sweet, thanks for the instruction. Loving that machine
You bet! It's a pretty sweet unit!
Thanks for the video Brandon!
You bet buddy!
Helpful information, learning quite a bit, YesWelder also sells mig guns, I just bought one for a Miller 250 so I can find out if the machine works, the issue with the Miller 250 is that the kit (plug in adapter) for a spool gun is no longer available, found that out after I had bought the unit, back to the drawing board as far as welding aluminum.
I took apart the miller and there isn't a whole lot of digital electronics as in today's era it seems most welders are loaded with electronics, I question if they make today's units with a End of Life EOL expectancy? kind of like Microsoft and operating systems, you buy an operating system but it has a life span for profit means.
I cant say as I dont wonder that also. Thats the benifit of the old transfrormer units. Super simple and they hardly ever die as opposed to todays units that are loaded with electronics that whole boards can get replaced. I guess it's a tradeoff. Being able to manipulate bead profiles and welder frequencies for the trusted and true transformer machine. I tend to lean towards the electronic stuff. It wasn't alsways this way. I'm 52 so this electronic stuff is foreign to what up grew up with.
Very helpful info Brandon
Glad to hear it! Thank you!
Love the demonstration Sir…..
Thanks Daniel!
Thanks for the test, I was trying to decide between a Tooliom and Yeswelder and I'd rather have a Yeswelder that actually puts out the amps it claims compared to the Toolioms which do not from what I've seen
Thanks man! Good choice!
A good bit of information. Great video Brandon 👌🏻👌🏻
That poor little coupon 🤣🤣🤣
Tell me about it hahahahaha. It took it like a champ though
@@BrandonLund 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks Brandon very interesting I know what I’ll be doing when I have time 👍👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
Thanks Paul. It's pretty interesting. :)
thanks for all you do
My pleasure Rodney!
Can you review an everlast 215c
Hi Brandon. Nice video. Very informative. It never came to my mind that we may not be getting what we expected our machine to deliver. Besides its the amperes input that makes the welder work how it suppose to right?Thank you for the info. God Bless.
Thanks man! Yah all of it plays a role. Input voltage probably isn't as critical on the output because these machines are designed to work within a certain range. What will effect the output amperage are the actual welding leads. If you were using extension leads and they were small you would get a noticeable different in output amperage.
@@BrandonLund Thank you brandon for another info. I Love you man. You're really a big help. If you're a book,, i could've bought one and can pass it on to my next generation.Really Helpful. 💓💓💓🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Ah man I appreciate that thank you so much for your support
Nice, but could you maybe show me where to place the red/black probes from my multimeter on my Lincoln 3200HD? I suspect im not getting adequate voltage to my welds? Thank you
You might be able to slip them on each of your leads right at the machine.
Pretty impressive accuracy !
Whenver I do these tests and experiments it always has me on the edge of my seat until I know the results. What a failure this would have been if it didn't perform as expected. SO far everything I have tested has been spot on.
I live on an island and I ordered a heavy duty extension cord for 4000 watts. No hardware store here, just a small ma and pa shop that carries very little supplies.
Sometimes those ma and pa shops have some cool stuff but it can be pricy.
Brilliant,Brandon
Thanks man!
I'm impressed that wire was able to take that current
You and me both!
I sure hope Im getting my 200 amps! I paid a lot of $$$ for my new welder. I might have to buy one of those meters. I have the old two lead type and I don't think those check amps.
I think you need this type of instrument but maybe some others more knowledgeable on this might ba able to chime in...
It would be interesting to see how the harbor freight machines do especially the Omni pro 220 😁🛫
Thats hopefully in the works right after these 3 giveaways
The thing is how can we fix the welding machine to show up the right amps .
Once I heard that can be done but I don't know how, any idea ?
Oh I'm sure it can be done but it's outside my expertise. I would be willing to bet that one of our viewers knows how thought.
Would you know how to check the polarity? I have a stick welder and was told that my welding leads were possibly installed incorrectly from the factory. How would I test to see if dc+ is actually dc+ and not dc- ?
Thanks
Depending on your meter, you should be able to connect your meter to how you "assume" it's wired. So for example, set your meter to DC volts, then put the red lead from your test meter onto the positive lead from the welder and put the black lead from your meter to the negative lead on your welder. If you get a positive reading on the meter, it's wired correctly. If you get a minus sign or negative sign in front of your number on the meter, you will know it's wired backwards. I hope this helps.
@@BrandonLund Wow thanks man for the quick reply! I’m going to try this and update this thread
@kenyanr1 anytime brother! Good luck 👍
Go with a top-quality machine and you're good... I have a Miller and recently picked up a Fronius TransSteel 2200c with TIG package and they gave me a FREE 2nd MIG gun fully set up to run both .035 or .045 Aluminum...
I have the same and it works just great, make sure you set the tension really light and run a 3/4 to 1 inch stick out cttw.
Forgot to add , for aluminum welding
I agree. It's pretty hard to beat the 2200 though. Oddly enough I have not tried welding aluminum with mine. You got a sweet deal. I think the torch for that 2200 is around 500 bucks. Having a spare torch with any machine is really the way to go though if you plan on doing alominyouum
I recently got a 150€ welder and it claims to output 400amps which I doubt!
The input power on the label says 240v 35A and High 47.7A
Is it possible it could be outputting around 200 amps?
Edit: I ran some 4mm 6013 and it went buttery smooth though my 1.5mm² 30meter extension cable got quite warm!!
400 amps would be a stretch but 200 is achievable with that machine. The cord got a little toasty huh lol. It's got some power for sure 👍
Hey, can you do a similar test, but have the meter show real-time amperage, rather than min/max? If you have the meter set to Min/Max, it could be putting out 180 amps most of the time and only jump to 240-250 for a split second once in a while, resulting in a misleading result.
This is especially true with welding current, because the amperage is such a noisy signal. You can get little "spikes" in the reading due to the noise of the signal. So a Min/Max reading may give results that aren't properly representative of the practical output of the machine.
Thats a great idea. I will do that in the future.
@@BrandonLund I don't think you're super close to me, but if there's anything I can do to help, or if you want to do a bit of a co-lab on this, let me know. My contact email is on my channel about page. Cheers!
Exactly what I did today.. The running amps on this machine on AL(synergy mode) made 210Amps on my machine. All of the steel settings (including manual mode) ran at 180amps max.. Despite the display saying '250'. This must be a programming thing because there is no reason the machine should make much less current on the steel settings. On stick the max I got was 193amps. Now 180 amps for a machine at this cost is still very good but my testing at least shows it to not be a 250A machine.
I'm finding this seems to be a trend with a lot of these budget machines. Surprisingly, I have found a couple that actually put out what it was displaying but most seem to be exaggerated. And as @bigtb1717 mentioned, having the meter set properly so its not just reading the spikes is a better indicator. Once I changed this I feel more confident with the results.
Ohm las… E over R = I (amps). Load will make a difference…. Your needs to pull the current… I surprised that wire side was able to pull that much current…
You and me both!
All the yes welders are super Consistent on reaching there max as well as going a little over niceeee... I have not thought to test them with my clamp meters I just use them to get work done @Brandon Lund
So far I am very impressed with the ratings and especially how user friendly they are to setup
I would like to know the amp draw from the electrical supply from your electrical panel the breaker supplying the welder. I would like to know the actual amp draw on the 200 amp welder. Some welders that are 200 amp are saying less than 20 amps. At max if you are using 230 volts it would be 4600 watts. Or for 220 volts 4400 watts. If you don't go max a 20 watt breaker could handle it
At max it would need a 30 amp breaker and fed with no:10 copper. Still trying to decide on an inexpensive 200 amp welder, are or flux core. For motorcycle repairs and making small table and racks. Will need to weld a cracked frames sometimes which is less than 3/16" of cheap Chinese steel
Unfortunately I have already given this machine away and no longer have it.
Is lift tig and scratch start the same thing ?
No they are actually different. A scratch start actually requires the tungsten to be "scratched" on the work surface to initiate the arc. Since the tungsten is electrically hot it can easily get stuck to the work piece. Sticking a tungsten is the disadvantage to this process. This is usually found on lower cost effect machines. Think AC buzz box with a scratch tig setup. A better method is lift tig. This works by contacting the tungsten to the workpiece then initiating the arc with the button or peddle. You slowly lift the tungsten away from your workpiece and the arc starts to initiate. The advantage to this is you dont get tungsten contamination from sticking your tungsten. Although you are touching the tungsten to the work piece in both scenarios, with lift tig the voltage is extemely small as it makes contact which is why it wont stick as compared to the hight voltage on scratch tig
@@BrandonLund Ok cause that's what I have and hate it lol. Thanks
Yah if you go with a lift tig setup you will be in your glory. It's night and day.
@@BrandonLund Trying to learn to tig well is hard, and I think scratch made it worse.
Interesting video. I would expect most if not all inverter type welders to basically output the set current and voltage it is set at for the process used. There are many variables including the type of machine governing the actual amperage and voltage produced by a welding machine verses the machine setting when welding. The variables are majorly dependent on the welding process being employed, and apply to all processes. You can get good ballpark figures to see if the machine is capable of supplying the amperage it is rated or set at. In certain processes (stick welding is one) the effects of voltage and current can and are manipulated by the welder to control the weld pool.
There has been some talk on the internet about welders not putting out advertised amperage so i think going forward i will include this as part of the tests. Everything is getting so expensive we all need to get the biggest bang for our buck!
Hey Brandon I like what I see!!! Liked #68 and subbed!!!
Thanks man I appreciate it!
Nice job! But not very important. In principle, I=Vtotal/(R+r), change into Vtotal=I*R+I*r, when the voltage Vtotal does not change (for example, you adjust a certain gear on the dial), the current I (ampere) changes depends on the resistance (R+ r), r is the resistance of the machine itself, which is determined by the quality of its own materials such as semiconductors, transformers, etc.; and the resistance R is constantly changing, such as wire feeding speed, different materials, material thickness, arc length, torch travel speed etc. When R does not change under certain working conditions, the current I=Vtotal/(R+r) depends entirely on "r", and r is the most basic and deadly parameter of the machine. It is composed of transformer windings, transistors, IGBTs and other materials.. A good machine r we think is very small and zero, at this time Vtotal=I*R=V1, V1 is the voltage actually applied between the welding wire and the ground, which is the voltage we really need. Regarding the garbage machine, follow As the temperature increases, the internal resistance "r" gradually increases, V1=Vtotal - r*I, the actual voltage decreases, resulting in a decrease in the actual current I=I1=V1/R. Therefore, among the three parameters of voltage, resistance and current, voltage should become an important parameter of the welding machine, which is the most intuitive and should be a reference parameter and a mark on the dial. As long as the welding voltage does not drop in a specific gear, it is a good machine. Therefore, we can conclude that all machines named after current (amperage) are commercial boos, and brand name machines are never marked on the dial. It is enough to have the wire feed speed dial and the voltage adjustment dial, the others (digital display) are for reference only. If you really want to test whether the machine current (amps) can reach its specified value, you have to hold it for a while, not a moment, because "r" gradually rises as the temperature of the transistor increases. Finally, the amperage drops.
Thanks for watchiung and commenting!
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If they use extensions it will make a difference especially if they don’t use the a thicker gauge per length according to extensions length gauge guide.
Spot on Max. It will drop considerably if your not using good cable
here We go
Right on!
Any machine CSA certified should be goid unless you just happen to get a defective one.
I wasn't aware of this! Thank you for sharing 👍
@@BrandonLund yea the csa makes all these manufacturers prove their duty cycles before they will certify them. All major brands like Miller, Lincoln, and Forney, etc. are certified and most upcoming Chinese models such as primeweld are. Everlast did get in trouble a few years ago for supposedly faking CSA certs on their welders but idk much about that deal. They say it was big in Canada where CSA is based but was kind of swept under the rug in the states.
Interesting! The plot thickens! Thank you for sharing. I wasn't aware of this either.
You can only do the test 7f you have a amp meter, so there goes another 100 dollars.
OR you could spend $3,500 for a machine that is certified and precision calibrated.
♥️
Thank you
So is it an Honest Amp machine or just an Amped up machine?
I will leave that up for you to decide.
4 things: 1- the max amperage doesn´t mean almost nothing, the real value is to the welder can produce that amperage regularly not in a peak. 2- those welders are not so bad cause there are welders that have specs of 200 amps and they could not deliver 140 amp. 3- 180 amps on a single phase 230v 16 a it´s almost the on limit. 4- the 100% duty cycle amperage for me is more important that the max amperage.
Your comment #2 is why i did the test. Supposedly certain welders wont put out the advertised amperage. If the welder cant reach its advertised peak amperage than its going to fail all the other tests you mentioned. Thats what i was testing.
@@BrandonLund but in my point of view the highest amp registered doesn't means anything because for a welder tig/MMA amperage and might voltage should be constant. So if I get a second of 250amp and the rest of the time 150 amp the machine shouldn't be labelled 250 amp, but it's my point of view.
@@pauloribeiro1627 i totally understand but if the machine is marked 250 amps and the machine cant achieve 250 amps momentarily than it seems any further testing would be pointless? No? I feel pretty confident saying the machine met the target numbers and it maintained them within 10% for the duration of the test. In my book it satisfyed my curiosity about the machines ability to put out the advertised amperage. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Biggest dime I ever seen 😝
You know it! 🤣🤣🤣
The ames meters are great I have 6 different ames meters and I have 3 of these clamp meters use them on Automotive repair every day they work flawless finally had to change the battery in 2 of them in a year @Brandon Lund
Thats good to know! I wasn't sure at first but for the money there is a big difference between this and fluke and I couldnt justify spending more on something I will not use much. I'm glad it's decent because I want to use it on each welder I use