It makes a nice slate rock face with the foam board by using just a wire brush,a bigger wire brush than what you were showing Tom. The wire brush makes nice thin slates of rock with thin recesses between the slabs of rock. Once painted to the desired effect it turns out pretty nice.
I agree with Jerry. It dents easy so you have to be careful before scenery is placed. I use foam everywhere except in my yards. I suggest using liquid nail and pins to secure it. Use cans of soup for weight to hold sections down while drying. Note get liquid nail that doesn’t melt the foam.
I noticed the dents, but that adds to the realism of the terrain. Not everything is level. I have the PL300 Foamboard Adhesive with 8# weights or totes with supplies to hold it in place while drying. For the cork to the foam, I've used white glue & foamboard adhesive.. The whit glue is easy to pull up if I change my mind. LOL
Thanks Tom. I use foam and think it's great (it's blue here in Australia). One thing I recommend is using Trackrite foam track bed instead of cork. I gave up on cork long ago - especially when using the extruded polystyrene boards. Trackrite is so quiet and so easy to use and forms a perfect shoulder profile. It is slightly recessed to perfectly align the track and if you are double tracking it spaces the parallel tracks perfectly. Gluing it with a tacky craft glue allows you to peel it off the foam with not too much trouble or damage if you want to move it. And because of the recessed centre and bevelled shoulder it holds the track with very minimal pinning or gluing before ballasting. Anyway, I typed all this on my phone so it's a bit all over the place. Regards.
Yes I just checked that. It turns out it's made here. Someone should look into hooking them up with some of the big suppliers over in the US. It really does make track laying so fast and easy and perfect. Thanks for all the great videos.
I use the same method but I put a piece of harboard between the foam and the cork or whatever else you use and this allows you to tack the track down when using flexi track. I find this works quite well. I should mention that I dont use tacks I use screws, they work quite well as you can easily lift the track if incorrectly positioned. Frank
I haven't used foam before either, but on this current build I will be using it for slight changes in elevation of the tracks as well as for scenery...thanks for the insights, Tom! T4
I am building my first layout. I used the foam for the base and also to make my inclines/ declines around my layout. Also used it to build up a mountain. I glued the layers together with construction adhesive. Found one that is safe for this insulation foam. I also found that spray foam is also good for helping to build up scenery division where necessary.
Hey Tom, I found that using Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue works well for gluing Cork to Foam, as well as the track to the foam. It is waterproof so when it comes to ballasting it does not dissolve the track glue. You can still get the track up with a putty knife if you want to change it later. Also latex caulk works well too.
Tom Karl’s right Home Depot has all the sizes of pink foam and I’ve not seen any of the pink foam with the plastic on it in a long time the blue foam does but I don’t use it as it’s softer then the pink boards
Hey Tom foam board is a good idea fast and easy to use I’ve been working with it for years in tabletop gaming and now with trains. I use t- pins and push pins to hold the track down and gorilla glue for foam to hold track and woodlands scenic roadbed down and it’s waterproof and easy to change later with a putty knife. Also you can lean on the layout and not crush any of your hard work of the terrain.
Love using the pink foam. So ligthweight and easy to use, can stack and carve in so many ways. I prefer the 2in but it can be hard to find in warmer climates, so I have to usually settle for stacking 1in. I am impressed that you can work in your garage, here in Houston I can't stand working on my garage layout May-October.
I insulated all my walls, door & ceiling in the garage and keep the door open to the house until I connect ac duct in the garage. I nstalled a ceiling fan and blow air in from the house. Keeps it cool. When it gets a little cooler, I'' get up in the ceiling and run an ac duct to the garage.
I just glue road bed and track with acrylic caulk and pin in place to dry. However my foam was glued to thin plywood on one layout where on another layout the foam was glued to the framework. Again I had no issues. Make sure that the clear plastic cover sheet is removed. Alot of people don't and it will come back to haunt you later. Some foam boards have it on one, some both sides. Rarely have I ever found pink foam without it on it.
@@TomsTrainsandThings well it's a really thin clear piece that covers it. Near invisible until you find it. A good way to fund out if it's on there is take some white glue and glue something near an edge and then pull it up after a few hours of being dry. If it's there you should able to know it while pulling object up.
You should have seen my car an how many cut long pices I had stacked in there I thought now what I got a lot left over but its turning out perfect I will use those too add terain an such. I never thought though about doing the turn outs like that an at this stage I should go back an fix that before I do have issues latter.
I’m a cork on plywood guy for track but use foam for scenery but I really like the idea of having the switches being portable. Thanks for the idea. I’ll have to think about that one. I look forward to the follow up video. Thanks Tom. How’s Debbie doing?
My previous layout was all cork underlayment under the track. This is an experiment for moeon the new layout. Debbie is doing much better now. She's taking care of me now since I had to goo to the ER on Tuesday. Found out I have pneumonia, they discharged me with antibiotics that I had a reaction to and went back to the ER Thursday to get fixed up again, Still recovering from the allergic reaction.
Hi Tom I like how you did the turnouts . Will you just cut out these sections from the layout foam ? The only Con I've come across so far is it dents easy .
Thanks Jerry. Yes, I'll be cutting these out on all my turnouts. Something I learned from a fellow modeler at the Hagerstown Roundhouse Museum. I'll show a little more on this in the next video.
I’m building my first layout, and I’ve used 2” foam as the base. But I’ve thought about using tortoise switches. How would you mount a tortoise to foam?
I did a video on mounting servos under foam a while back. You may be able to use the same principle with the tortoise. ua-cam.com/video/9b3KnLy5udI/v-deo.html
It makes a nice slate rock face with the foam board by using just a wire brush,a bigger wire brush than what you were showing Tom. The wire brush makes nice thin slates of rock with thin recesses between the slabs of rock. Once painted to the desired effect it turns out pretty nice.
Thanks Jeff
I agree with Jerry. It dents easy so you have to be careful before scenery is placed. I use foam everywhere except in my yards. I suggest using liquid nail and pins to secure it. Use cans of soup for weight to hold sections down while drying. Note get liquid nail that doesn’t melt the foam.
I noticed the dents, but that adds to the realism of the terrain. Not everything is level. I have the PL300 Foamboard Adhesive with 8# weights or totes with supplies to hold it in place while drying. For the cork to the foam, I've used white glue & foamboard adhesive.. The whit glue is easy to pull up if I change my mind. LOL
Hi Tom. Very useful. Look forward to your next video on using foam for your scenery.
Thanks Tom. I use foam and think it's great (it's blue here in Australia). One thing I recommend is using Trackrite foam track bed instead of cork. I gave up on cork long ago - especially when using the extruded polystyrene boards. Trackrite is so quiet and so easy to use and forms a perfect shoulder profile. It is slightly recessed to perfectly align the track and if you are double tracking it spaces the parallel tracks perfectly. Gluing it with a tacky craft glue allows you to peel it off the foam with not too much trouble or damage if you want to move it. And because of the recessed centre and bevelled shoulder it holds the track with very minimal pinning or gluing before ballasting. Anyway, I typed all this on my phone so it's a bit all over the place. Regards.
Thanks Peter. That's looks like a great product. I'll have to look into a bit further, the only place I see so far offering it is in Australia.
Yes I just checked that. It turns out it's made here. Someone should look into hooking them up with some of the big suppliers over in the US. It really does make track laying so fast and easy and perfect. Thanks for all the great videos.
Thank you Tom, good idea to have the Turnouts removable for service
Learned that from an old timer
I use the same method but I put a piece of harboard between the foam and the cork or whatever else you use and this allows you to tack the track down when using flexi track. I find this works quite well. I should mention that I dont use tacks I use screws, they work quite well as you can easily lift the track if incorrectly positioned. Frank
Thanks Frank. The nails I use come up after I glue down the ballast. The ballast is plenty to hold everything in place.
I haven't used foam before either, but on this current build I will be using it for slight changes in elevation of the tracks as well as for scenery...thanks for the insights, Tom! T4
Always a first time for everything. Hope it works out for you.
@@TomsTrainsandThings You, as well! Have an incredible evening! T4
I am building my first layout. I used the foam for the base and also to make my inclines/ declines around my layout. Also used it to build up a mountain. I glued the layers together with construction adhesive. Found one that is safe for this insulation foam. I also found that spray foam is also good for helping to build up scenery division where necessary.
Great tips Steve!
I think I got the idea for spray foam from another UA-cam channel, but I can't remember right now who.
Hey Tom, I found that using Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue works well for gluing Cork to Foam, as well as the track to the foam. It is waterproof so when it comes to ballasting it does not dissolve the track glue. You can still get the track up with a putty knife if you want to change it later. Also latex caulk works well too.
Thanks Troy
Oh wait. You're ready now!
i like 1/2 inch foam board, easy to put in rivers and streams, and trees, well just poke them in and bam done
I've seen the 1/2 inch in Loews, but they have a foil coating on it. That's only half the fun, just like N scale. LOL
Home Depot should have all the sizes.
Tom Karl’s right Home Depot has all the sizes of pink foam and I’ve not seen any of the pink foam with the plastic on it in a long time the blue foam does but I don’t use it as it’s softer then the pink boards
@@hondachopper6978 Not in this area
Hey Tom foam board is a good idea fast and easy to use I’ve been working with it for years in tabletop gaming and now with trains. I use t- pins and push pins to hold the track down and gorilla glue for foam to hold track and woodlands scenic roadbed down and it’s waterproof and easy to change later with a putty knife. Also you can lean on the layout and not crush any of your hard work of the terrain.
Thanks for the tip William
I build large scale intricate props for theatre productions with that stuff.
Seems to be good for just about everything!
Love using the pink foam. So ligthweight and easy to use, can stack and carve in so many ways. I prefer the 2in but it can be hard to find in warmer climates, so I have to usually settle for stacking 1in. I am impressed that you can work in your garage, here in Houston I can't stand working on my garage layout May-October.
I insulated all my walls, door & ceiling in the garage and keep the door open to the house until I connect ac duct in the garage. I nstalled a ceiling fan and blow air in from the house. Keeps it cool. When it gets a little cooler, I'' get up in the ceiling and run an ac duct to the garage.
I just glue road bed and track with acrylic caulk and pin in place to dry. However my foam was glued to thin plywood on one layout where on another layout the foam was glued to the framework. Again I had no issues. Make sure that the clear plastic cover sheet is removed. Alot of people don't and it will come back to haunt you later. Some foam boards have it on one, some both sides. Rarely have I ever found pink foam without it on it.
Thanks Raymond. I haven't seen any foam here with a coating on it.
@@TomsTrainsandThings well it's a really thin clear piece that covers it. Near invisible until you find it. A good way to fund out if it's on there is take some white glue and glue something near an edge and then pull it up after a few hours of being dry. If it's there you should able to know it while pulling object up.
You should have seen my car an how many cut long pices I had stacked in there I thought now what I got a lot left over but its turning out perfect I will use those too add terain an such. I never thought though about doing the turn outs like that an at this stage I should go back an fix that before I do have issues latter.
I can imagine. LOL
I’m a cork on plywood guy for track but use foam for scenery but I really like the idea of having the switches being portable. Thanks for the idea. I’ll have to think about that one. I look forward to the follow up video. Thanks Tom. How’s Debbie doing?
My previous layout was all cork underlayment under the track. This is an experiment for moeon the new layout. Debbie is doing much better now. She's taking care of me now since I had to goo to the ER on Tuesday. Found out I have pneumonia, they discharged me with antibiotics that I had a reaction to and went back to the ER Thursday to get fixed up again, Still recovering from the allergic reaction.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Boy oh boy, when you guys do it you do it big. Hope you are both doing better.
Hi Tom I like how you did the turnouts . Will you just cut out these sections from the layout foam ? The only Con I've come across so far is it dents easy .
Thanks Jerry. Yes, I'll be cutting these out on all my turnouts. Something I learned from a fellow modeler at the Hagerstown Roundhouse Museum. I'll show a little more on this in the next video.
You'll be ready for some Santa Clause gigs by Thanksgiving.
Looks like it! LOL
I’m building my first layout, and I’ve used 2” foam as the base. But I’ve thought about using tortoise switches. How would you mount a tortoise to foam?
I did a video on mounting servos under foam a while back. You may be able to use the same principle with the tortoise.
ua-cam.com/video/9b3KnLy5udI/v-deo.html
@@TomsTrainsandThings wow. Thanks. I’m impressed that you made your own switch machines.
I use 2" foam. I sure wish that switch machines had longer throw bars. I don't think I am going to use foam on my top level.
I'll be using servos on some of my turnouts and Tortoise on others. Have to use them up. I have 24. LOL
I want to use Walthers Layout Control System. But will have to modify it so the throw will reach.
Almost all of my layout , mountains and all is made of foam
I see a lot of people using foam for the scenery. I use it sometimes, but still prefer the old methods.
Glue your track down
A con Tom, be very cautious of the adhesives you use.
Thanks Sean. Only using foam adhesive & white glue on this.
What doesn't work on foam?
Tom, any solvent based adhesives, contact cement, epoxies etc.