Thanks for showing what that hook and chain that came with the vac bleeder is for. Air leaking in around the threads of the loosened bleeder screw can also cause the bubbles.
Out of those three systems, my favourite is the Gunson system that pressurises from the top. I've used the vacuum bleeder that you used quite extensively, and I've found it to be fairly unreliable, as the valve that reverses the compressed air to create suction can get stuck, and either cause the bleeder to do nothing, or even worse, blow air back up the brake pipe. Seems to have worked well for you though. It can also be good for initiating a fuel syphon, or for bleeding a diesel fuel system.
Big (60 ml) syringe has worked well for me. Costs about a quid. You can cycle the fluid both ways. Blowing from the bleed nipple, you are pushing the fluid the same way the bubbles tend to go (upward) which probably helps, and you have complete one-man control Its sometimes claimed there is a risk of master cylinder seal damage, but so far, so so.. One snag with the "suck" part of the cycle is that air can be pulled in via the bleeder threads. The air isn't itself a problem, since it rises into the syringe and you can easily avoid blowing it back in, but it makes it harder to tell when you've finished, It can be reduced with PTFE thread tape, which also reduces the chance of your bleeder screw rusting solid, but you have to avoid getting PTFE fragments inside the braking system, which could cause blockage. I dunno about ABS though. I've only used it on a fairly simple 1986 car
Thanks for this video series. Found it very interesting, especially the disgraceful engine oil state! I’m looking at buying one of these Sealey VS020 bleeders. It’s a toss up between one of these and one of the VS820 systems that goes on the reservoir cap. But I can see the reservoir cap versions making a mess when you disconnect them!
Glad you liked it! While the VS020 needs a compressed air supply to work, I like how easy it is, and that it doesn't rely on any special adaptors for the master cylinder like the pressure bleeder designs do. It also works nicely on my Land Rover's front brakes, which are notoriously awkward to bleed well because of the design/layout of them. The VS820 would be good because of being a standalone design that doesn't need air etc, and they seem to hold quite a lot of fluid, so you don't need to top up if doing a full flush. I think most similar tools make the job much easier than trying to do it the old fashioned way.
Thanks for the reply, no worries it was a great series! I'll get one of these two designs at some point, of course a bonus of the VS020 design is you don't need to buy another capture bottle where you do with the VS820, adding more to the cost. But then again if you don't have a compressor that would add a lot to the cost of the VS020. As we already have a compressor it seems to make most sense to buy the VS020. Cheers.
Good video. A good way to reduce/eliminate the air bubbles coming in through the bleeder nipple is to smear a little bit of grease around the base of the nipple & the rubber connector. It creates an air tight seal and the vacuum should not be high enough to suck the grease into the line. Works like a charm.
Yes, that's quite effective - you can do the same thing on the threads of the bleed nipple if you find air getting past there. I don't worry about it too much, as the air is going into the bleeder, not into the brake, so it still does the job.
Looks like a fun ride. I don't know if we have any compact cars like that, with all wheel drive. It would be cool to get my hand on something similar in my market place.
Thanks! If you're in the US, you're a little limited, yes, but there should still be plenty of cars that you could import from Japan outside of the 25 year rule.
A good hack to avoid buying an expensive bleeder you’ll hardly use is to just buy the biggest syringe you can find on eBay and use that instead. They usually come in multiple packs, no hardship since they can also be used for precision lubrication of sunroof / window guides and mechanisms or any other assembly where an aerosol can or oil can is not possible or desirable (check out mercedessource’s videos, he takes this to another level). It’s a little more fiddly since you need to close off the nipple before disconnecting / emptying the syringe, but it works very well on the whole.
That's pretty much the technique I use on bike brakes, or other situations where I want to do a reverse bleed, but in terms of hassle, the vacuum system is still my preference.
I generally find 60 mls is big enough that disconnection isn't really required. Say 50mls a corner? . You'd have to have a pretty voluminous brake system to need more than that even if only using the syringe unidirectionally.
man fuck those gunson eezi bleeds, used mine once and the damn things seal blew out and never sealed after that ever again, and they dont sell the new seals online!
Thanks for showing what that hook and chain that came with the vac bleeder is for. Air leaking in around the threads of the loosened bleeder screw can also cause the bubbles.
Out of those three systems, my favourite is the Gunson system that pressurises from the top. I've used the vacuum bleeder that you used quite extensively, and I've found it to be fairly unreliable, as the valve that reverses the compressed air to create suction can get stuck, and either cause the bleeder to do nothing, or even worse, blow air back up the brake pipe. Seems to have worked well for you though. It can also be good for initiating a fuel syphon, or for bleeding a diesel fuel system.
Big (60 ml) syringe has worked well for me. Costs about a quid.
You can cycle the fluid both ways. Blowing from the bleed nipple, you are pushing the fluid the same way the bubbles tend to go (upward) which probably helps, and you have complete one-man control
Its sometimes claimed there is a risk of master cylinder seal damage, but so far, so so..
One snag with the "suck" part of the cycle is that air can be pulled in via the bleeder threads. The air isn't itself a problem, since it rises into the syringe and you can easily avoid blowing it back in, but it makes it harder to tell when you've finished,
It can be reduced with PTFE thread tape, which also reduces the chance of your bleeder screw rusting solid, but you have to avoid getting PTFE fragments inside the braking system, which could cause blockage.
I dunno about ABS though. I've only used it on a fairly simple 1986 car
Thanks for your vids mate! Very clear and useful.
Thanks!
Thanks for this video series. Found it very interesting, especially the disgraceful engine oil state!
I’m looking at buying one of these Sealey VS020 bleeders. It’s a toss up between one of these and one of the VS820 systems that goes on the reservoir cap. But I can see the reservoir cap versions making a mess when you disconnect them!
Glad you liked it!
While the VS020 needs a compressed air supply to work, I like how easy it is, and that it doesn't rely on any special adaptors for the master cylinder like the pressure bleeder designs do. It also works nicely on my Land Rover's front brakes, which are notoriously awkward to bleed well because of the design/layout of them.
The VS820 would be good because of being a standalone design that doesn't need air etc, and they seem to hold quite a lot of fluid, so you don't need to top up if doing a full flush.
I think most similar tools make the job much easier than trying to do it the old fashioned way.
Thanks for the reply, no worries it was a great series!
I'll get one of these two designs at some point, of course a bonus of the VS020 design is you don't need to buy another capture bottle where you do with the VS820, adding more to the cost. But then again if you don't have a compressor that would add a lot to the cost of the VS020. As we already have a compressor it seems to make most sense to buy the VS020.
Cheers.
Good video. A good way to reduce/eliminate the air bubbles coming in through the bleeder nipple is to smear a little bit of grease around the base of the nipple & the rubber connector. It creates an air tight seal and the vacuum should not be high enough to suck the grease into the line. Works like a charm.
Yes, that's quite effective - you can do the same thing on the threads of the bleed nipple if you find air getting past there. I don't worry about it too much, as the air is going into the bleeder, not into the brake, so it still does the job.
i subbed since i now have a daihatsu too and since it is really easy to work on
Looks like a fun ride. I don't know if we have any compact cars like that, with all wheel drive. It would be cool to get my hand on something similar in my market place.
Thanks! If you're in the US, you're a little limited, yes, but there should still be plenty of cars that you could import from Japan outside of the 25 year rule.
A good hack to avoid buying an expensive bleeder you’ll hardly use is to just buy the biggest syringe you can find on eBay and use that instead.
They usually come in multiple packs, no hardship since they can also be used for precision lubrication of sunroof / window guides and mechanisms or any other assembly where an aerosol can or oil can is not possible or desirable (check out mercedessource’s videos, he takes this to another level). It’s a little more fiddly since you need to close off the nipple before disconnecting / emptying the syringe, but it works very well on the whole.
That's pretty much the technique I use on bike brakes, or other situations where I want to do a reverse bleed, but in terms of hassle, the vacuum system is still my preference.
I generally find 60 mls is big enough that disconnection isn't really required. Say 50mls a corner? . You'd have to have a pretty voluminous brake system to need more than that even if only using the syringe unidirectionally.
Show some coolant flush. Nice video buddy
I will do when I do the job (whether on this or another car), it probably wouldn't hurt to do.
man fuck those gunson eezi bleeds, used mine once and the damn things seal blew out and never sealed after that ever again, and they dont sell the new seals online!
I like your videos. But please change the intro music