Great video! I have a 98 scout 172 center console and I have gas in my bilge. I'm guessing I may also have the same issue. I worry about wires not being long enough. I really don't want to rewire anything. I guess I won't know till I start removing screws.
Great instructional Video! I have the same boat just a few years earlier (04) and also having to change out the fuel tank. My Question: now that you’ve had the tank installed for a few years now, have you had any problems or would you do something different if you had to do it again? Are your 610 adhesive supports holding up? My boat also has the tank foamed in for support, but my boat fuel tank supports where not fiberglassed in like yours, the foam was the only thing used to support the tank, strange? Instead of the starboard slats, I’m going to install neoprene to support the new tank. Your Thoughts?
Eddie Jenkins hi. Thanks for the comment. I would not have done anything differently the fuel tank is holding up perfectly. By lowering the tank only by about a half inch because there’s no foam under it actually causes the boat perform better. I have inspected the 610 mounts with an inspection camera I borrowed from a friend and they are holding up perfectly they look like the day I sealed everything up. The only difference which is rather annoying is the new tank has a different baffle design. Basically what happens is fuel sloshes between the back of the tank and the first baffle. It creates a slight jolt feel under my feet under certain wave conditions. I actually had to mount a camera in there to verify what was happening. Anyway there’s no way around it but it is the only thing different about the new tank that I’m not entirely crazy about. As far as not having the tank foamed in, that is really an old practice that most higher end manufacturers no longer do. Last point is the new tank will be heavier because the new standards for tank wall thickness are higher. Like I said before about the tank placement I’m sure the weight also causes the boat ride slightly different but like I said the boat actually rides better than it did. Hope all that helps!! Best of luck with the project
Eddie Jenkins My only caution on neoprene is if oil and fuel would cause it to melt then you should not use it if it is oil and fuel proof then sounds great.
after scouring the Internet, looks like neoprene is a good option to use instead of foam, USCG also recommends it? I think I'm going to use a local guy to fabricate my fuel tank, little cheaper and I can have him beef it up a little. I'll mention the baffle issues you're having, maybe he'll come up with a solution.Thank you,
Hey buddy first all great Job! So here is my dilemma. I have a 2001 17 feet Palm beach center console, and is leaking fuel into the bilge, I think it may be the same issue you had, my engine works great and the boat is always been solid, but now I'm having this issue, where did you order the tank and hoses from? And how hard was for you to do it? I'm a really hand guy, can I do it my self? or did you have help? anyways thank you for the video.
Alan Akamine my tank came from Florida marine tanks, but there are a bunch of tank companies. And it was not difficult just time consuming. I bet 20 hours. I had help putting new tank in. 2 people to get it in position. All fittings and lines came from West Marine. Good luck!
I have a key largo which need a tank but mines is 110gallons which cost $1000 dollar to be made call a local boat shop see who makes them I had to cut the floor out around the tank replace tank and used the same piece I cut and replace cost me 2000 al together because I repainted the whole inside and non skid
Question for you: What kind of cost are we looking at here for labor and parts? I ask because it looks like a lot of work so the cost I'm assuming would be around $3,000 to $4,000. On a 20 year old that boat that is only worth $5,000 to $6,000 you pretty much have reached the law of diminishing returns. Why not just empty the old tank, vent it for a few weeks off season and let it dry out and then use a couple of external 10 gallon tanks? I know for anyone doing any real off shore fishing that my suggestion won't work because it would limit your travel distance but for many weekend anglers just traveling 5 to 10 miles would this make sense or am I missing something? Thanks.......
Rob M Honestly I have no idea what the labor would be. The tank cost me about $400 shipped. I probably spent another hundred between new hoses fittings and sealant. I think it’s a stretch to say that there would be $3500 worth of labor, but maybe. If I were to replace this boat it would cost me at least $40k. Add about $10k for the electronics, Power Pole and trolling motor. So for $500 and a weeks worth of work it was well worth fixing. The engine is still running strong and this tank installation has not given me any problems. The hull and deck, stringers, electronics, hardware, even gel coat are all in near perfect condition. Keep in mind this is a 98 boat with a 96 motor on it. I bought it for $10K 16 years ago. At some point the motor will stop and I’ll put a new motor on it. I must admit, I’m actually looking forward to that day. That will be at least $15k. And yes, I will gladly spend the money. This boat does not owe me a dime. It’s hard to quantify diminishing return when the boat does exactly what it’s designed to do every time I put it in the water. Buying a new one just seems like a waste of money. Plus the manufacture made some changes I️ don’t particularly like. So I️ guess the short story is the love for it is what you’re missing. Thanks for the comment!
Gotcha, thank you very much for getting back to me so quickly. My boat is worth far less than yours and I am in the same boat "pun intended" so in my case I may just go external. You did a super job!!!!! Peace, Bob
Thanks! External tanks work great under the right circumstances. Fortunately you could always have it done at some point and use externals to keep fishing! I bet it’s less $$ then you may think.
not very good sorry to say......those slats underneath can trap water between them and the tank and that epoxy could easily loosen on them and then those screws on the tabs will bend break and move especially since they are not fastened properly or stable.....it will last if it gets zero water in there....good luck
@@bobbygfl ya it will make it a while in fair weather but to do it right would last 25 years or possibly a lifetime in any water. Im not trying to be a jerk but I wouldnt ever suggest to anyone to do it like this and you shouldn't either. Firstly, the slats underneath should not be hard like starboard material. The tank flexes, the hull flexes, the thing in the middle should too, not to mention cushion for the impacts of driving on the water and vibration/noise dampening. Should use rubber slats. Secondly, it appears you did not prep the hull for good adhesion for any sealant you could use. Should have been cleaned better then sanded and The WWWWWW design application of your six10 shows where bilge water will get trapped behind it and eventually loosen the adhesion and come off when the hull flexes and the slat doesn't. that entire surface should be sealed completely Same with the "Kerfs" that will trap water against the tank and then loosen the adhesion or begin corroding, and the slats start falling underneath and the tanks starts moving. Thirdly, After a few years and a few waves, he tank is missing two slats and those screws at the tabs have been yanked around and are loosening too, making more movement, because they have no support or strength in between the tab and the stringer. No one should ever set screws like that if they want anything to stay in place. If you want extra support there you can do that trick for the 610 on the tank at the top and make sure its curved and cant trap water. But starboard would have been better utilized to shim those tabs and then your screws would have real strength. Fourthly, the extra glass around the top edge looks like it will potentially trap water on top of the tank. Fifth, The water will get to the top of the tank because you did not seal any of the hardware coming through the deck that's fastening the console. Soon that water will find a trap caused by the tank moving and corrode it too. You can do this the proper way with less money. that starboard is expensive and stiff and nothing adheres to it. The biggest issue is the lack of prep to the hull or you would be much more confident the slats would stay. Your rivet idea may have worked at least. Could have possibly saved it if you prepped the tank properly, but you didn't. potential to trap water there too. Sorry for the lecture but there is a lot of potential to go wrong if anyone was to follow this method. It might work for you but boats have all different kinds of conditions that may need real quality. Your installation will not last in a rough seas environment for long I can say that for sure. Low consequence i guess, not much bad can happen right?......... or can it?
Outstanding - well done, man!
Scott Peterson thank you!
Great video! I have a 98 scout 172 center console and I have gas in my bilge. I'm guessing I may also have the same issue. I worry about wires not being long enough. I really don't want to rewire anything. I guess I won't know till I start removing screws.
Eric Noel That was my first move! Once I got into it it actually went pretty easy just a lot of time.
Great instructional Video! I have the same boat just a few years earlier (04) and also having to change out the fuel tank.
My Question: now that you’ve had the tank installed for a few years now, have you had any problems or would you do something different if you had to do it again? Are your 610 adhesive supports holding up?
My boat also has the tank foamed in for support, but my boat fuel tank supports where not fiberglassed in like yours, the foam was the only thing used to support the tank, strange?
Instead of the starboard slats, I’m going to install neoprene to support the new tank.
Your Thoughts?
Eddie Jenkins hi. Thanks for the comment. I would not have done anything differently the fuel tank is holding up perfectly. By lowering the tank only by about a half inch because there’s no foam under it actually causes the boat perform better. I have inspected the 610 mounts with an inspection camera I borrowed from a friend and they are holding up perfectly they look like the day I sealed everything up. The only difference which is rather annoying is the new tank has a different baffle design. Basically what happens is fuel sloshes between the back of the tank and the first baffle. It creates a slight jolt feel under my feet under certain wave conditions. I actually had to mount a camera in there to verify what was happening. Anyway there’s no way around it but it is the only thing different about the new tank that I’m not entirely crazy about. As far as not having the tank foamed in, that is really an old practice that most higher end manufacturers no longer do. Last point is the new tank will be heavier because the new standards for tank wall thickness are higher. Like I said before about the tank placement I’m sure the weight also causes the boat ride slightly different but like I said the boat actually rides better than it did. Hope all that helps!! Best of luck with the project
Eddie Jenkins My only caution on neoprene is if oil and fuel would cause it to melt then you should not use it if it is oil and fuel proof then sounds great.
after scouring the Internet, looks like neoprene is a good option to use instead of foam, USCG also recommends it? I think I'm going to use a local guy to fabricate my fuel tank, little cheaper and I can have him beef it up a little. I'll mention the baffle issues you're having, maybe he'll come up with a solution.Thank you,
Eddie Jenkins cool! Such a great boat. New they’re going for almost 40k. Worth the investment for sure
Great job.
Thanks
Hey buddy first all great Job! So here is my dilemma. I have a 2001 17 feet Palm beach center console, and is leaking fuel into the bilge, I think it may be the same issue you had, my engine works great and the boat is always been solid, but now I'm having this issue, where did you order the tank and hoses from? And how hard was for you to do it? I'm a really hand guy, can I do it my self? or did you have help? anyways thank you for the video.
Alan Akamine my tank came from Florida marine tanks, but there are a bunch of tank companies. And it was not difficult just time consuming. I bet 20 hours. I had help putting new tank in. 2 people to get it in position. All fittings and lines came from West Marine. Good luck!
I have a key largo which need a tank but mines is 110gallons which cost $1000 dollar to be made call a local boat shop see who makes them I had to cut the floor out around the tank replace tank and used the same piece I cut and replace cost me 2000 al together because I repainted the whole inside and non skid
Question for you: What kind of cost are we looking at here for labor and parts? I ask because it looks like a lot of work so the cost I'm assuming would be around $3,000 to $4,000. On a 20 year old that boat that is only worth $5,000 to $6,000 you pretty much have reached the law of diminishing returns. Why not just empty the old tank, vent it for a few weeks off season and let it dry out and then use a couple of external 10 gallon tanks? I know for anyone doing any real off shore fishing that my suggestion won't work because it would limit your travel distance but for many weekend anglers just traveling 5 to 10 miles would this make sense or am I missing something? Thanks.......
Rob M Honestly I have no idea what the labor would be. The tank cost me about $400 shipped. I probably spent another hundred between new hoses fittings and sealant. I think it’s a stretch to say that there would be $3500 worth of labor, but maybe. If I were to replace this boat it would cost me at least $40k. Add about $10k for the electronics, Power Pole and trolling motor. So for $500 and a weeks worth of work it was well worth fixing. The engine is still running strong and this tank installation has not given me any problems. The hull and deck, stringers, electronics, hardware, even gel coat are all in near perfect condition. Keep in mind this is a 98 boat with a 96 motor on it. I bought it for $10K 16 years ago. At some point the motor will stop and I’ll put a new motor on it. I must admit, I’m actually looking forward to that day. That will be at least $15k. And yes, I will gladly spend the money. This boat does not owe me a dime. It’s hard to quantify diminishing return when the boat does exactly what it’s designed to do every time I put it in the water. Buying a new one just seems like a waste of money. Plus the manufacture made some changes I️ don’t particularly like. So I️ guess the short story is the love for it is what you’re missing. Thanks for the comment!
Gotcha, thank you very much for getting back to me so quickly. My boat is worth far less than yours and I am in the same boat "pun intended" so in my case I may just go external. You did a super job!!!!! Peace, Bob
Thanks! External tanks work great under the right circumstances. Fortunately you could always have it done at some point and use externals to keep fishing! I bet it’s less $$ then you may think.
not very good sorry to say......those slats underneath can trap water between them and the tank and that epoxy could easily loosen on them and then those screws on the tabs will bend break and move especially since they are not fastened properly or stable.....it will last if it gets zero water in there....good luck
Boat Werks thanks for the comment. 4 years in and zero issues.
@@bobbygfl ya it will make it a while in fair weather but to do it right would last 25 years or possibly a lifetime in any water. Im not trying to be a jerk but I wouldnt ever suggest to anyone to do it like this and you shouldn't either. Firstly, the slats underneath should not be hard like starboard material. The tank flexes, the hull flexes, the thing in the middle should too, not to mention cushion for the impacts of driving on the water and vibration/noise dampening. Should use rubber slats. Secondly, it appears you did not prep the hull for good adhesion for any sealant you could use. Should have been cleaned better then sanded and The WWWWWW design application of your six10 shows where bilge water will get trapped behind it and eventually loosen the adhesion and come off when the hull flexes and the slat doesn't. that entire surface should be sealed completely Same with the "Kerfs" that will trap water against the tank and then loosen the adhesion or begin corroding, and the slats start falling underneath and the tanks starts moving. Thirdly, After a few years and a few waves, he tank is missing two slats and those screws at the tabs have been yanked around and are loosening too, making more movement, because they have no support or strength in between the tab and the stringer. No one should ever set screws like that if they want anything to stay in place. If you want extra support there you can do that trick for the 610 on the tank at the top and make sure its curved and cant trap water. But starboard would have been better utilized to shim those tabs and then your screws would have real strength.
Fourthly, the extra glass around the top edge looks like it will potentially trap water on top of the tank. Fifth, The water will get to the top of the tank because you did not seal any of the hardware coming through the deck that's fastening the console. Soon that water will find a trap caused by the tank moving and corrode it too.
You can do this the proper way with less money. that starboard is expensive and stiff and nothing adheres to it.
The biggest issue is the lack of prep to the hull or you would be much more confident the slats would stay. Your rivet idea may have worked at least. Could have possibly saved it if you prepped the tank properly, but you didn't. potential to trap water there too.
Sorry for the lecture but there is a lot of potential to go wrong if anyone was to follow this method. It might work for you but boats have all different kinds of conditions that may need real quality. Your installation will not last in a rough seas environment for long I can say that for sure. Low consequence i guess, not much bad can happen right?.........
or can it?
Boat Werks thanks for the detailed comment. All very good points.