Thanks so much for this great video! Especially the hook trick 😉Because of your video I did a successful timing belt replacement on a 2017 Chevy Colorado.
Thanks for posting! Cool tips about the hook for the fan and about marking the belt, but I'm a little surprised the replacement belt wasn't already marked. Last time I put a belt in my old Tacoma I used an OEM kit and the belt already had the alignment marks on it, made the job super easy. Not looking forward to doing the belt in my diesel, I'm getting older and lazier lol.
Good idea with the Hammock Hook 👍 PS In the beginning of the Colorado Service/warranty booklet (p.16) there is a maintenance schedule with some 'fine-print' most mechanics ignore. It suggests Timing-belts may need changing every 105,000km unlike the 150km the log coupon. The valves 'will' hit the pistons if ever it breaks, so beware.. Also in the fine print p.16 Service Auto trans at every 75,000km (mine was very dark at 120,000km but no metal yet). also at 120km the Rear diff pinion seal starting to seep and with very fine metal in oil. Note the Front diff and Transfer case Oils were much better at 120km because my/wifes school bus never goes bush .. Just letting everyone know before big $$$$ repairs needed.
Cheers on showing the TB tensioner, replacing my 2nd HPFP (leaking) and I fecked up the tensioner had to order replacement. Notice the tensioner has a tab that aligns with a nub on the bloc, most people don't point that out
Nice work and very creative use of the hook. A couple of suggestions 1) With it all apart, good call replacing the water pump as a preventative measure. However, I would have done the tensioners as well as the bearings can be a weak point and it's an easy fix since you have them out anyway. 2) I'd do the other belt (fan/alternator), again since everything is apart. Belts and suspenders, as they say!
We have a vehicle here in South Africa that is closely related to the Colorado. It's branded as a Chevrolet Trailblazer, and also uses the 2.8 Duramax engine. I realised the other day the service guys here never replaced the timing belt at 120,000, and the vehicle is now at 185,000. Your video has given me all the information I need to tackle this job. I just need the spares, the 36 mm and the hammock hook. Since I've taken my motorcycle apart my confidence to tackle bigger jobs has grown immensely (although it must be said the motorcycle still has issues and is not "running" at this time)
I notice there is a 171 and 167 teeth option. Worth checking which one was installed originally. Mine is apparently a 171 teeth belt, however really important to place them next to each other to ensure that 171 is actually correct. Installing the wrong one belt will definitely lead to issues later (but not much later)
I just did this job, - the most stressful prick of a job ever!. That stupid big fan ring shroud piece, I sliced that fker in 2 , and put it back in 2 halves, to save a whole lot of trouble in the future.
Just to add. After new belt is fitted and the engine is turned by hand, those paint marks will NEVER EVER line up. You can turn the engine 25 times and they wont gome back to match. Ive tried. But dont be concerned. As long as they were right to start. After you haved turned the crank sprocket at least 2 turns you might have to redo the tensioner. My pointer seemed to ocserlate from either side of the notch as it went around. I just got it to a happy medium. Also, you don't have to take the fan off. Just unbolt the fan and pulley bracket off the block. Its got to come off anyway. 3 bolts and your good. No running to bunnies to get a hammock bolt and stuffing around with that.
If the radiator cools the engine and transmission, it might be a good idea to install a separate transmission cooler, taking the tranny fluid out of the main radiator. The wall between the coolant and the tranny fluid can corrode away and then the fluids mix. This happens to old Nissan Frontiers, destroying the transmissions.
Good day brother., what are the parts change? does pulleys need to be replaced as well? I'm planning to change the timing belt soon, it's a 7 year old trailblazer and I'm at 129,000km so far
Out of weird curiosity, did you keep the block at TDC? Mark the pulleys to make sure of timing? Heard the exhaust side can be barely moved out of whack.
Awesome video mate just wanted to ask a quick question of how you actually line up the teeth from the old to new timing belt? im pretty confident with al the rest its just lining up the teeth correctly.
The owners manual recommended changed over a few years I will be changing it every 100,000km Where the older handbook recommended like 147000 and new versions recommended 107000
You skipped sooo much lol interesting that you didnt use the the exhaust camshaft tool .you o ly replaced the pump the tensioner and the timing belt. The hook part was interesting tho
Hi all. Can anyone give any guidance on how to properly re-align all shafts prior to refitting the timing belt? My 2013 Colorado RG’s timing belt broke at idle. 8 x rocker arms broken but I’m advised it’s likely the valves are likely to be ok so just want to try new rocker arms and see how it goes. Problem is I’m not 100% sure how to re-align camshafts with crankshaft and injector pump. Also, the camshaft timing belt pulley was removed without marking the pulley to inlet camshaft orientation. I’m certain there must be a way by lining up TDC to camshaft position and injector position. I have the Haynes manual, but so far everything points to changing a timing belt that isn’t broken. Might’ve missed the section I need, but happy to be corrected or advised either way. Cheers in advance.
@@johnnykkkk you've done a few collies. I have a 2017 and I feel my snorkel is blowing way to much air out. Also sometimes on deceleration my snorkel shakes. Any ideas
@@EricPeniata You can't and that is the problem. It is safest to have the lock down tool. I would mark everything to the motor as well, that is still a little dodgy though.
That actually is a DOHC. The exhaust cam is internally gear driven off the belt driven intake. That rubber access plug is removed to get to a nut on the exhaust cam that a holding tool is plugged into. Depending on where the cams are, the sprocket can shift due to the valve spring tension pushing on the cam. If doing this without the tool, I'd definitely mark the big sprocket to the engine also, in case it shifts. Getting a replacement access plug and using the holding tool can save a bit of a headache. Here in the US Sasquatch Parts sells a kit including cam holding tool rental.
This is why im never buying another Chevy. maintenance is a pain. I had a 2012 Everest and you can change a timing belt on that in 30 minutes or less. No need to disassemble that much. even the freaking cabin filter is behind a panel that needs screw removed.
Why in the name of God did go away from Isuzu and get this abomination from fiat now stelantis? The almost same junk engine is the dodge eco diesel with.2 more liters. At least they used a chain which stretches easily is still better than a belt
Thanks so much for this great video! Especially the hook trick 😉Because of your video I did a successful timing belt replacement on a 2017 Chevy Colorado.
Awesome video and thanks for taking the time to make it. Dealership wants an arm and a leg to perform this job.
Thnks for the kind words hope you learned from it ..cheers
good call on the hook for the radiator fan.
Cheers
Thanks for posting! Cool tips about the hook for the fan and about marking the belt, but I'm a little surprised the replacement belt wasn't already marked. Last time I put a belt in my old Tacoma I used an OEM kit and the belt already had the alignment marks on it, made the job super easy. Not looking forward to doing the belt in my diesel, I'm getting older and lazier lol.
Good idea with the Hammock Hook 👍
PS In the beginning of the Colorado Service/warranty booklet (p.16) there is a maintenance schedule with some 'fine-print' most mechanics ignore.
It suggests Timing-belts may need changing every 105,000km unlike the 150km the log coupon.
The valves 'will' hit the pistons if ever it breaks, so beware..
Also in the fine print p.16
Service Auto trans at every 75,000km (mine was very dark at 120,000km but no metal yet). also at 120km the Rear diff pinion seal starting to seep and with very fine metal in oil.
Note the Front diff and Transfer case Oils were much better at 120km because my/wifes school bus never goes bush ..
Just letting everyone know before big $$$$ repairs needed.
Cheers on showing the TB tensioner, replacing my 2nd HPFP (leaking) and I fecked up the tensioner had to order replacement. Notice the tensioner has a tab that aligns with a nub on the bloc, most people don't point that out
Nice work and very creative use of the hook. A couple of suggestions 1) With it all apart, good call replacing the water pump as a preventative measure. However, I would have done the tensioners as well as the bearings can be a weak point and it's an easy fix since you have them out anyway. 2) I'd do the other belt (fan/alternator), again since everything is apart. Belts and suspenders, as they say!
Is it a interference type motor belt breaks valve drop into the cylinder ? How important is it to change belt before it breaks
@@shawnwright5332 yes it is an interference engine so it will go bang!
We have a vehicle here in South Africa that is closely related to the Colorado. It's branded as a Chevrolet Trailblazer, and also uses the 2.8 Duramax engine. I realised the other day the service guys here never replaced the timing belt at 120,000, and the vehicle is now at 185,000. Your video has given me all the information I need to tackle this job. I just need the spares, the 36 mm and the hammock hook. Since I've taken my motorcycle apart my confidence to tackle bigger jobs has grown immensely (although it must be said the motorcycle still has issues and is not "running" at this time)
Thanks Anton , glad you have now got the confidence to do the job 👍
Lol, they also the trailblazer. basically together. Just like Hilux + Fortuner or the Ranger + Everest.
I notice there is a 171 and 167 teeth option. Worth checking which one was installed originally. Mine is apparently a 171 teeth belt, however really important to place them next to each other to ensure that 171 is actually correct. Installing the wrong one belt will definitely lead to issues later (but not much later)
@@avdmer yeah, I counted the teeth just to make sure they sent the right belt BEFORE I pulled it apart.
Damn you dude! I was just about to book mine in to get done... Now I'm thinking bout doing it myself 🤣
Just been to Bunnings for my hammock hook 👌 you're a legend!!
Great video really well explained and detailed.
Thanks for this. The hook tool was excellent
Much appreciated, nice tip to remove the fan.
I just did this job, - the most stressful prick of a job ever!. That stupid big fan ring shroud piece, I sliced that fker in 2 , and put it back in 2 halves, to save a whole lot of trouble in the future.
Yep, GM "Americanized it" alright. The US model is a pain in the ass 😆
Just to add. After new belt is fitted and the engine is turned by hand, those paint marks will NEVER EVER line up. You can turn the engine 25 times and they wont gome back to match. Ive tried. But dont be concerned. As long as they were right to start. After you haved turned the crank sprocket at least 2 turns you might have to redo the tensioner. My pointer seemed to ocserlate from either side of the notch as it went around. I just got it to a happy medium.
Also, you don't have to take the fan off. Just unbolt the fan and pulley bracket off the block. Its got to come off anyway. 3 bolts and your good. No running to bunnies to get a hammock bolt and stuffing around with that.
Cheers mate 😁, I've always wanted to know how its done.
Thanks, great video and tips, I might be tempted to give this a go myself. Cheers.
good luck
do you have video of crankshaft oil seal replacement?
sorry no
10/11/24 3.30 AEST+1 just watch my18 timing belt change... bloody awesome instructions I'm willing to give it a red hot go when due ( 30k
@@SandyBenfield good luck
If the radiator cools the engine and transmission, it might be a good idea to install a separate transmission cooler, taking the tranny fluid out of the main radiator. The wall between the coolant and the tranny fluid can corrode away and then the fluids mix. This happens to old Nissan Frontiers, destroying the transmissions.
Old Hilux as well.
Great video it helped a lot!
Great info, no bullsh1t video, thanks m8. Any other tips on the RG? Not sure about buying 1 of these or the 09-12 earlier version.
Good day brother., what are the parts change? does pulleys need to be replaced as well? I'm planning to change the timing belt soon, it's a 7 year old trailblazer and I'm at 129,000km so far
Out of weird curiosity, did you keep the block at TDC? Mark the pulleys to make sure of timing? Heard the exhaust side can be barely moved out of whack.
Awesome video mate just wanted to ask a quick question of how you actually line up the teeth from the old to new timing belt? im pretty confident with al the rest its just lining up the teeth correctly.
There's the part in the vid I taped the belt next to each other to line up the teeth
Just done my timing belt. Didn't even remove the radiator nor did I remove the fan the way you did. Had mine done in an hour
Where are you located..I could use help..lol
Hi Mate,
Do you need a crankshaft locking too? Or any specific tools?
No I didn't lock the camshaft just mark it 👍
hi i have trailblazer and the odo is already 136000 km should i change also?
Hi what does it say in the owners manual ? some of the later models are reccomended at a lower kms
whats the interval for 2.5er or 2.8er z71. 60000 or 100000km?
The owners manual recommended changed over a few years I will be changing it every 100,000km
Where the older handbook recommended like 147000 and new versions recommended 107000
Hey mate have you ever replaced the crank seal on one of these? Do you need a puller ?
@haygee2845 sorry haven't done crank seal
Great video, well done!
Did you go genuine water pump mate or aftermarket?
Dayco kit so timing belt and waterpump were both Dayco
Excellent, very well educated
Nice video mate!
thanx
How long did it take to complete the job, start to finish? Very informative video by the way!
Thanks for sharing your video
How about locking the cam and crank ,,,!,,
Do you have the torque specs for the water pump bolts?
32Nm
great video..
thanx
Nice work
Thank you
What tourque setti g do you use on the tensioner
Has mark to line up on the tensioner
The torque setting for the bolt that holds the tensioner to the block.
You skipped sooo much lol interesting that you didnt use the the exhaust camshaft tool .you o ly replaced the pump the tensioner and the timing belt. The hook part was interesting tho
Great vid. One question... what's with the cable tie at 6:53 on the camshaft sprocket? What is it mean to stop? Cheers.
Hi all. Can anyone give any guidance on how to properly re-align all shafts prior to refitting the timing belt?
My 2013 Colorado RG’s timing belt broke at idle.
8 x rocker arms broken but I’m advised it’s likely the valves are likely to be ok so just want to try new rocker arms and see how it goes.
Problem is I’m not 100% sure how to re-align camshafts with crankshaft and injector pump.
Also, the camshaft timing belt pulley was removed without marking the pulley to inlet camshaft orientation.
I’m certain there must be a way by lining up TDC to camshaft position and injector position.
I have the Haynes manual, but so far everything points to changing a timing belt that isn’t broken.
Might’ve missed the section I need, but happy to be corrected or advised either way.
Cheers in advance.
How did you go with it? I just did my belt after losing the marks ( long story). I maybe able to help. Btw. Marks are NOT TDC.
There’s timing marks on the cam, crank and fuel pump gears which line up on the block/head
does colorodo oil pump use serpentine belt ?
no
Are you a mechanic mate?
Auto Elect
Hey mate whats the signs of a baf timing belt
Should change it on kms ...
Recommended kms is about 100,000 now it use to be 147,000
@@johnnykkkk you've done a few collies. I have a 2017 and I feel my snorkel is blowing way to much air out. Also sometimes on deceleration my snorkel shakes. Any ideas
@jonroser5214 maybe inlet manifold sooted up and restricted ?
@@johnnykkkk I'll take it off and have a look I did clean EGR and egt sensors they were blocked
@jonroser5214 yeah the manifold will be restricted...cheers
Don’t you need a tool to lock the cam? Or did I miss that?
There is tools for lock cam and crank also. U can do it without tools just need to watch cam loaded it can turn.
How can I tell if cam is loaded or not
@@EricPeniata You can't and that is the problem. It is safest to have the lock down tool. I would mark everything to the motor as well, that is still a little dodgy though.
It's a fiat engine same motor used in chrysler voyager rt 2.8 2011 and jeep wrangler jk series . And a lot of other vehicles
Any chance you could do mine? Will pay of course
That's just for the single cam engine.
If it's a double overhead valve you need some tools
That actually is a DOHC. The exhaust cam is internally gear driven off the belt driven intake. That rubber access plug is removed to get to a nut on the exhaust cam that a holding tool is plugged into. Depending on where the cams are, the sprocket can shift due to the valve spring tension pushing on the cam.
If doing this without the tool, I'd definitely mark the big sprocket to the engine also, in case it shifts. Getting a replacement access plug and using the holding tool can save a bit of a headache. Here in the US Sasquatch Parts sells a kit including cam holding tool rental.
dont nead to undo the fan, remove the liting bracket remove the 3 bolts holding the fan assemly on and remove the assembly complete
It will be very simple
I have a 2022 zr2 colorado with 2.8 Dmax In the manual 250000 km
250000 km on a 2022 holy crap how much do you drive. I have a 2017 z71 duramax with 237000km and it developed an oil leak in the rear main seal
@@leadnsteel1428 i don't have 250000 km on my zr2 just say in the manual it says to change timing belt at 250000 km
@@leadnsteel1428 I only have 1500 km on my zr2
This is why im never buying another Chevy. maintenance is a pain. I had a 2012 Everest and you can change a timing belt on that in 30 minutes or less. No need to disassemble that much. even the freaking cabin filter is behind a panel that needs screw removed.
Explain the process clearly
Why in the name of God did go away from Isuzu and get this abomination from fiat now stelantis? The almost same junk engine is the dodge eco diesel with.2 more liters. At least they used a chain which stretches easily is still better than a belt
Chains wear out and need to be replaced as well.
I have 229,966km on my diesel and no problems