I replaced my clutch cable 2 months ago and had the same cover off. Instead of removing my exhaust, I just displaced it. I have a D&D 2 into 1. I removed the 2 lower nuts on the exhaust and loosened the 2 upper ones and pulled it away from the bike and installed a short 1x6 piece of wood between the frame and pipe. Worked out perfectly.
Likely these types of failures are caused by not enough free play in the clutch adjustment. If the pushrod that goes through the clutch to the adjuster spins this thrust bearing will also which it's designed to do but not constantly. Car clutch thrust bearings fail the same way if there is not enough slack in the adjustment or if the return spring fails.
Great video have a Honda st1100 brought me to side of road it 1999 year won't go into gear when I push down for first it just starts rattling loud would this be the problem do you think have cleaned replaced seals in slave cylinder all back together seems ok have pressure but same problem trying to put into gear, also is that cock always just behind the actual gear selector pedal? itself am Ameture bike Mechanic have a go you never know type 😃
Thanks for posting this .. I too found debris and slack free play in me clutch cable … it’s a 2009 dyna .. will have to check but it’s very similar to yours .. this definitely helps ..👍
Nice to know. I put an Easy Clutch Pull kit in my 2002 Road King but didn't know about that bearing. Haven't added oil or put exhaust back on so I'll go back in and replace that bearing hopefully with something better. Everything was clean when I took it apart so I should be OK. I kinda want to go on long trips and would be pretty ticked to have that small bearing come apart especially if it could cause severe damage. Great video, Thanks.
@@whiskeymechanic Yes, one of the few cheap things to buy, looks like about $15-25 from J&P Cycles. It's old but low miliage and in great shape that I've had a few years. I did install Screamin Eagle Cam plate, etc in 2017 just as 1 pc. of inner shoe had broke off. Have service manuals for both bikes. Haven't rode it for a couple years as it needs new engine/trans rubber mounts, tires, etc.. Ben riding 99 Fat Boy and 2006 1100 Shadow but sure need to get R.K. going again. Fortunate to have 3 bikes, all black, carburated, good cams in both Harleys, and best of years for all. Take care, from the farm in Michigan.
@MadMax is correct, the only time I've seen these bearings fail is when there's no free play in the clutch adjustment. I took one out in 20 minutes one time with no free play. If set up properly, they only spin when you pull the clutch lever.
I believe this area gets easily overlooked. Fortunately… these parts aren’t expensive, but unfortunately… they put a lot of metal in your oil. Be sure to change the oil and adjust your clutch beginning under the primary derby cover. Good luck, brother… 👍🏼
How may miles on your bike with the bearing went out? Mine blew at 56K. I swapped out my exhaust years ago for a system that lets me get to my transmission cover and rear brake without messing with the exhaust. it is ugly two into one fishtail like the early bikes from the 40s and 50s but it works 🙂
Well, I discovered it immediately after acquiring the bike… I think only around 12-15K miles… in my opinion, it was definitely caused by improper clutch adjustments. If the initial adjustment at the clutch pack is too tight, this will happen prematurely.
Spray the header flange nuts with a penetrant (WD-40, PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.) the day before you intend on working on it, and again during disassembly, and you shouldn’t have an issue. Good luck, and consider getting aftermarket header pipes, because if you’re still running the stock H-D exhaust on a touring bike… they’re a pain in the arse!! There are many brands to choose from. On my ‘05 FLHT, I bought COBRA header pipes… love them… just my opinion.
Great video have a Honda st1100 brought me to side of road it 1999 year won't go into gear when I push down for first it just starts rattling loud would this be the problem do you think have cleaned replaced seals in slave cylinder all back together seems ok have pressure but same problem trying to put into gear, also is that cock always just behind the actual gear selector pedal? itself am Ameture bike Mechanic have a go you never know type 😃
@@brocky78 well, I have very little Honda experience (1976 CB350 & 2005 VLX600). My knowledge is mostly Harley-Davidson. Sorry that I’m unable to help you out.
Those look like standard roller bearings. They should be conical in this application. This bearing was not designed correctly and will eventually fail. I have the 2000 TC 88. I’m at 38Kmi and I expect to be replacing the clutch soon. This is great information. I’ll be inspecting and probably replacing that bearing with an aftermarket throw out that has conical pin bearings.
I agree that these are a bad design, being straight roller bearings spinning in a circle 🤷🏻♂️ I believe S&S make a heavy duty bearing, but still the same design
1st time this happened to me I rode home 200 miles home with no clutch. 2nd time, rollers went into my gearset and lunched the entire transmission. POS HD design
That’s some bad luck there. I don’t think folks realize that the inspection of this little bearing, and a proper clutch adjustment should be done on a yearly basis, at least. Your misfortunes are testaments to my cautious opinion. Stay safe, Ken!
@@kennethwise7108 👍🏼 I may look into that as well. It would probably be a good idea for the sidecar bike. It undoubtedly gets worked harder. Add a review on it at some point.
Know exactly what you mean about the sucking-task of having to remove the exhaust. My first thought on just about any component on 'all' Harleys, first you have to remove the exhaust system to access the.........everything, well maybe not the front wheel, but just about with everything else.
Short answer: No. I didn’t have any indication while riding that there was an issue with this “oil slinger”, aka “throwout”, bearing. I was doing my first oil change after having purchased the motorcycle, and found the debris in the transmission oil. That’s what led me to do a thorough inspection inside the transmission right-hand cover. A proper clutch adjustment requires you to begin making adjustments at the clutch basket under the primary’s derby cover. Once that adjustment is made, then you inspect these throwout bearings, and after reassembly is complete, you finish adjusting at the clutch cable.
I have a 97Road King and my clutch lever went limp last year so I got a new cable and it was still not working. Now I am going to check out the throw out berring, thanks for the video,,!!!@@ELMARQUESO
@@BMFRich65 …no. I just discovered it when I was doing my first oil change on the bike. There was a small roller bearing on the magnetic drain plug. It came out of the thrust bearing which had completely failed.
I replaced my clutch cable 2 months ago and had the same cover off. Instead of removing my exhaust, I just displaced it. I have a D&D 2 into 1. I removed the 2 lower nuts on the exhaust and loosened the 2 upper ones and pulled it away from the bike and installed a short 1x6 piece of wood between the frame and pipe. Worked out perfectly.
Informative video!
Thanks for sharing!
@@user-mk5no4ee7k …glad to help!
Likely these types of failures are caused by not enough free play in the clutch adjustment. If the pushrod that goes through the clutch to the adjuster spins this thrust bearing will also which it's designed to do but not constantly.
Car clutch thrust bearings fail the same way if there is not enough slack in the adjustment or if the return spring fails.
Great video have a Honda st1100 brought me to side of road it 1999 year won't go into gear when I push down for first it just starts rattling loud would this be the problem do you think have cleaned replaced seals in slave cylinder all back together seems ok have pressure but same problem trying to put into gear, also is that cock always just behind the actual gear selector pedal? itself am Ameture bike Mechanic have a go you never know type 😃
Thanks for posting this .. I too found debris and slack free play in me clutch cable … it’s a 2009 dyna .. will have to check but it’s very similar to yours .. this definitely helps ..👍
Nice to know. I put an Easy Clutch Pull kit in my 2002 Road King but didn't know about that bearing. Haven't added oil or put exhaust back on so I'll go back in and replace that bearing hopefully with something better. Everything was clean when I took it apart so I should be OK. I kinda want to go on long trips and would be pretty ticked to have that small bearing come apart especially if it could cause severe damage. Great video, Thanks.
One bit of good news is that the kit is inexpensive. Glad the video gave you some awareness. Safe travels!✌🏼
Be sure to begin your clutch adjustments from the left side, under the derby cover.
@@whiskeymechanic Yes, one of the few cheap things to buy, looks like about $15-25 from J&P Cycles. It's old but low miliage and in great shape that I've had a few years. I did install Screamin Eagle Cam plate, etc in 2017 just as 1 pc. of inner shoe had broke off. Have service manuals for both bikes. Haven't rode it for a couple years as it needs new engine/trans rubber mounts, tires, etc.. Ben riding 99 Fat Boy and 2006 1100 Shadow but sure need to get R.K. going again. Fortunate to have 3 bikes, all black, carburated, good cams in both Harleys, and best of years for all. Take care, from the farm in Michigan.
@MadMax is correct, the only time I've seen these bearings fail is when there's no free play in the clutch adjustment. I took one out in 20 minutes one time with no free play. If set up properly, they only spin when you pull the clutch lever.
Absolutely correct 👍🏼
Thanks for the video have same issue bearing gone along with cclip
I believe this area gets easily overlooked. Fortunately… these parts aren’t expensive, but unfortunately… they put a lot of metal in your oil. Be sure to change the oil and adjust your clutch beginning under the primary derby cover. Good luck, brother… 👍🏼
Damn something to definitely look out for.
How may miles on your bike with the bearing went out? Mine blew at 56K. I swapped out my exhaust years ago for a system that lets me get to my transmission cover and rear brake without messing with the exhaust. it is ugly two into one fishtail like the early bikes from the 40s and 50s but it works 🙂
Well, I discovered it immediately after acquiring the bike… I think only around 12-15K miles… in my opinion, it was definitely caused by improper clutch adjustments. If the initial adjustment at the clutch pack is too tight, this will happen prematurely.
I'd like to check my bearing, but I'm worried about taking the exhaust off. Really don't want to break the bolts coming out of the heads.
Spray the header flange nuts with a penetrant (WD-40, PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.) the day before you intend on working on it, and again during disassembly, and you shouldn’t have an issue. Good luck, and consider getting aftermarket header pipes, because if you’re still running the stock H-D exhaust on a touring bike… they’re a pain in the arse!! There are many brands to choose from. On my ‘05 FLHT, I bought COBRA header pipes… love them… just my opinion.
Great video have a Honda st1100 brought me to side of road it 1999 year won't go into gear when I push down for first it just starts rattling loud would this be the problem do you think have cleaned replaced seals in slave cylinder all back together seems ok have pressure but same problem trying to put into gear, also is that cock always just behind the actual gear selector pedal? itself am Ameture bike Mechanic have a go you never know type 😃
@@brocky78 well, I have very little Honda experience (1976 CB350 & 2005 VLX600). My knowledge is mostly Harley-Davidson. Sorry that I’m unable to help you out.
Those look like standard roller bearings. They should be conical in this application.
This bearing was not designed correctly and will eventually fail.
I have the 2000 TC 88. I’m at 38Kmi and I expect to be replacing the clutch soon. This is great information. I’ll be inspecting and probably replacing that bearing with an aftermarket throw out that has conical pin bearings.
I agree that these are a bad design, being straight roller bearings spinning in a circle 🤷🏻♂️
I believe S&S make a heavy duty bearing, but still the same design
@@davidson2004fatboy …I agree with you because if conical bearings were used in this application, you’ll need tapered races instead of flat washers.
1st time this happened to me I rode home 200 miles home with no clutch. 2nd time, rollers went into my gearset and lunched the entire transmission. POS HD design
That’s some bad luck there. I don’t think folks realize that the inspection of this little bearing, and a proper clutch adjustment should be done on a yearly basis, at least. Your misfortunes are testaments to my cautious opinion. Stay safe, Ken!
@@whiskeymechanic thanks Craig. I have just purchased the Baker heavy duty throw out bearing kit
@@kennethwise7108 👍🏼 I may look into that as well. It would probably be a good idea for the sidecar bike. It undoubtedly gets worked harder. Add a review on it at some point.
@@whiskeymechanic will do
Thanks for a great video! Cheers!
Know exactly what you mean about the sucking-task of having to remove the exhaust.
My first thought on just about any component on 'all' Harleys, first you have to remove the exhaust system to access the.........everything, well maybe not the front wheel, but just about with everything else.
True… I put Cobra true duals on my FLHT… super happy with them!
Thank you
You’re very welcome, brother!
did it drive noticeably different after it broke?
Short answer: No.
I didn’t have any indication while riding that there was an issue with this “oil slinger”, aka “throwout”, bearing. I was doing my first oil change after having purchased the motorcycle, and found the debris in the transmission oil. That’s what led me to do a thorough inspection inside the transmission right-hand cover.
A proper clutch adjustment requires you to begin making adjustments at the clutch basket under the primary’s derby cover. Once that adjustment is made, then you inspect these throwout bearings, and after reassembly is complete, you finish adjusting at the clutch cable.
clutch lever stop working
I have a 97Road King and my clutch lever went limp last year so I got a new cable and it was still not working. Now I am going to check out the throw out berring, thanks for the video,,!!!@@ELMARQUESO
Cómo se llaman esas piezas que cambiaste ?
Reemplacé los cojinetes de desecho "aceite slinger"
Was it making a noise?
@@BMFRich65 …no. I just discovered it when I was doing my first oil change on the bike. There was a small roller bearing on the magnetic drain plug. It came out of the thrust bearing which had completely failed.
@@whiskeymechanic wow!