Owning & Running a Model Railway is an Evolution process, what once was is no longer, we continue to learn & improve, as always your videos are of a high quality both from the content & production, you make all look so simple and we your audience really appreciate your videos, Great a Work, Well Done!
This series of videos is proving so helpful to my own efforts to build my own layout, whether it is ideas I had not thought of or improving plans I already have on paper. It is admirable that people such as yourself share your skills and ideas with other modellers. The clear, concise presentation is much appreciated.
Richard, your videos are inspirational. Everytime I watch one, my imagination runs riot and I start thinking of that model railway I would build, if only I had time. One day! Keep up the excellent work and the superb videos.
Ngl, watching you rip up the track is helping me get the courage to do a rather ambitious project of regauging a branchline on my local model railway from 00 to 009, thank you for the tips.
Excellent series of videos. Moving with the missus to a flat which has a (in her words) dedicated train room. The videos have inspired me and reminded me how to go about building a decent layout. Cheers!
Hi,My granddad was a platelayer I the mid 1930s. Your process for removing and re-installing/reworking the line is oddly reminiscent of how hr told me they did it! Remove the fishplates, remove the points, take up the track, reline the bed, lay track, ballast and move on. I'm enjoying watching these videos it brings back some old memories.Thanks a lot.Treereaver
Hello Richard! Got to say WOW! superbly produced and full of helpful tips. I am considering having an electro frog crossover which will be manual, so I was interested to see the use of insulators! I'll be trying to watch the rest of this series over time. Cheers and well done indeed. Mike
Wow..that's some Nice Model Rail Road Track building...I think I just learned a couple of things about laying the track down with the Cork...I am a Train and Rail fan....Thanks for posting...I enjoyed watching.
Hi thier this is one of the best videos I have seen on laying new track and also taking out a section of existing track with minimal dissruption . Thank you I have learned so much from this video . Cheers.......Peter.
I've had no end of fun watching your videos and envying your layout (in a good way! lol), thanks for sharing all the great stuff! Look forward to more. Thanks.
Superb Richard you sure know what your doing mate you make it look so easy and like the way you speed up the video in parts makes it very watchable cheers Kev
Sorry for the late reply Richard, another great and informative video, I never get bored or tired of watching them and quite often come back to view again - they're that good! lol. It's really great to see something build up from it's inception to what will be the finished item. Looking forward to the next part already. ............Graham
EverardJunction Yep, I know what you mean. I have literally just finished watching your coach lighting video (again!) - there is a good reason why. ;-)
Great video as always rich. The route i have chosen with track planning is to use anyrail to plan the track and then export over to train player this allows you to actually run scale trains over your trackplan and do any adjustments prior to track laying.
Great series Richard, I have delayed starting the new OO layout to get a few more tips under my belt off you. Learning loads of stuff I never though I'd need to know!
+EverardJunction hi, I've just started my own channel about my Model railway called the model railway files which has 6 episodes at the moment. Your videos are really helpful for me and may layout. Also, can you remember what size drill bit you used to drill the holes for the point motors?
Excellent information on the kinking in the tracks on the other videos especially when you see them on the train cambs in real life you can see the track wobble but you never see it kinking well tha leased I haven't or I may have forgotten. The only thing I do different for your track laying on the male fish plate I'd put a dab of liquid solder and solder them together that way I know I get a good electrical connection between the two separate tracks. You've done a excellent video on track fitting look forward to seeing the treble point being done with the electric frog as I don't use these types mine are always insulated frog points: it will be nice to see how I can do one on my new layout.
Great update. Wish I had a pneumatic chisel to strip scenics that fast. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this piece if the layout. Couple of suggestions, first leave the buffers in where the scrap yard was. It's a nice little feature that depicts what was there and in real life these things are often left in place (especially around Derbyshire). Secondly (speaking of Derbyshire), have you seen the carriage and DMU sidings at Derby? Like your plan they are to one end of the station and have a mix of new and old buildings on the site. Thought they may be of use to you for inspiration when you begin the scenery.
***** Thanks, I'm doing research on carriage sidings and planning scenics at the moment. Like the buffer idea, i'm planning on doing a small disused area.
Superb video, watching you remove the old track shows how good the idea of laying cork under the track becomes for later alterations. In Australia the slight raising of the outer rail is called "Super elevation", is the same term used in the UK? Another way to undertake the joining of the track, is to remove the rail chairs with a scalpel on the sleepers at the joint. This way the sleeper is still attached, you can slide the fish plate onto the rail and there is no need to replace during ballasting. Many thanks for the ongoing hints, Neil
Wonderful video...I'm new to these and it would take me a while to make something like this or would never but your video is very educating. Thank you 😊👌👍
Excellent video as always! Some very useful tips. Looking forward to seeing this scene develop. I quite like the idea of the fueling point by the DMU sidings, should look really good! Cheers Joe
You make track work look so easy. Making modifications to my track would not be that easy. You would destroy the track. I glued it down with liquid nails. Great job on the track work. The area looks great. Scott
Thank you this is just what Im about to do and its my first time with Peco and electro frog points so I might hang on to watch you do it. Great vid as per
Your videos are bloody great mate been watching for years, im making a start in N gauge on a 6ft x 3ft plywood board soon, will look through your videos for some tips, excellent work matey
I like the "fast forwarding" It makes me smile..... Like I said on previous video, I use a multi-tooland cut a slot under the throw bar. It works great.
realy enjoying watching your videos. my father and I are about to start a big layout and will be definitely using advice and techniques shown in these clips. only diffrence will be all our locomotives are analogue .
Nice vid and work as ever, I agree with one comment about the top three sidings possibly as shed coach storage, will you need the point work at the end of the shed? If so, viewing them will be a challenge. With the point work your doing on the far end of the station, this allows the shunter to run around any coaches, then back through the station, just an idea. All in all a great use of the space.... I'm enjoying your fine work, it'll look great. Regards Ian
Q for buffs, is there a guide for signalling procedures in the 1980's? e.g how is control of a train handed over from one signal box to another? How would say a colliery order a train formation from a marshalling yard? teleprinter?
Fastest hammer in the West lol. Please keep posting. Question: Will you do a tutorial on how to wire a three-way point with powered frog? I watched your tutorial on how to wire a two-way point and I seem to remember you commenting the three-way was much trickier... I even think you muttered something about you "couldn't quite remember" how you did it lol Thoughts: Re a coach shed how will you be able to see the switches near the buffers - transparent roof perhaps? I like the idea of leaving room for scenery. Perhaps you could have some railroad men trundling carts and welding kits or whatever prototype yards do - similar to how you have passenger figures at your station platforms and your canal ad other.
sitearm Thanks. The 3 way point is in the next part and isn't too bad to wire up. I lost the instructions for my previous point so couldn't remember how to do it. Turns out its not too bad. The coach shed is only an idea at the moment. It may only span part of the rear section. Will see how things go.
Interesting use of 3 way shunts in the yard, i hadn't come across them yet, looks like they could solve my problem of how to get the maximum yard in a small edge of layout. My question is though how much do they exist in real world track?
Thanks for the tips! I am making notes on how to design, decorate, wire ect. my new set. Im reworking the older set in my grandmothers house. Tips for any good working welsh trains? Based in our local area of holyhead!
What's your trick to getting the straights to actually stay straight along a long section? I've got a couple of 4m main line straights on my layout but if you look down one end along them its obvious they aren't straight, even more annoying as I'm using set track on the straight sections.
Roberto Riccioni I use a long straight bit of timber or a spirit level to straighten the track. Works well, you can also by stuff called tracksetta which also works well.
Thanks again for another great, informative video. Where can I get one of those Mini Jackhammer Chisels for pulling up ballast ? Nah, just joking, but it looked cool in time lapse. A trick for N gauge modelers, I mark sleeper pin holes with a sharp pin probe then dremel with fine drill bit bit using the dremel flexible extension. This leaves one hand free to hold everything in place although probably not such a problem in OO as it's not so small. Thanks again for sharing. Stew
Looking good Richard and yet again a very informative video, about the same place as you with laying track on Bodmin 2 but I'm in no rush, watched you seep point motors installation video but looking forward to seeing the 3 way installation on the next video Andy
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else is searching for how to build a model railroad layout try Vaxicorn Railroaders Membership Guide (just google it ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my m8 got excellent success with it.
I have a Couple Questions about : what kind of Glue would you use on that Cork section of Track ,you tore out, that goes into The New Yard you are building and how would you apply it, Would you use a paint brush to apply the Glue to the Cork to install it ?
Daniel Siskron I don't glue the cork down until I start ballasting. The ballast is glued with diluted PVA glue. Once dry that keeps everything in place. Hope that helps.
can you let me know the ideal spacing between the tracks as i noticed you was using a baton of wood. as i am planing my layout at the moment but have no rolling stock i don't wont to put lines to close
I'm starting a new layout from scratch and like your idea of cork under the track. i was wondering where you get it from as i am struggling to find somewhere to buy it! Love the video series and the detail is great! Thanks
fantastic presentation super helpful for me, wish I'd seen your video before I started on my layout 2 years ago! where do you buy your track? have you done a video on installing point motors?
Hi, I'm having all sorts of derailments with Hornby point turn outs, are the peco ones better and can you use the Hornby surface mounted point motors on peco track, cheers?
Got a bit of a question about track pinning. I'm planning to re-do my layout at some point and I'd like to know what you tend to do when it comes to holding track down. Considering the cork sheeting and such, I'm a little worried about over-driving pins and accidentally creating dips in the track.
Please help I have a layout which was built by me and my grandad however he has now passed away but due to the fact I was ten when I built it the track laying is not the best. What is the best way to make my trains run smoothly
Italkgadget I would try to lift it all the track where problems are and lay it properly. Depends what problems you're having. If the track isn't level it could be a baseboard issue. Do the trains derail? Or are they jerky?
It's just jerky and loses power in some places but occasionally trains derail I don't want to lift all the track as it is quite sentimental but I might lift some Cheers Gadget
Italkgadget If it jerky then the track probably needs a very good clean and perhaps some extra dropper wires. If you use a multimeter you can find out where the electrical signal in the track is weak.
Thanks for the informative video Richard 😁 I've just started my channel and will be building my first layout soon and your videos will be a very helpful reference source.
Going through the whole set of videos in one hit so apologies if any suggestions have already been made or are too late!!! Carriage sidings would also have held morning / overnight newspaper stock and Royal Mail sets, which would add a little variation to the yard. Cheers, Bob
Have you considered applying a little warm water to the dried ballast before prying it off? More mess but lifts easier. Nice result though and great vid.
I think your presentation is excellent unfortunately due to age and having Parkinson’s i am unable to build layouts myself so I am a watcher not a doer keep up the good work thanks nick
Hi Richard, great videos. I was just re-watching and wondered why you were using the crimping pliers on the joints in the speeded up part of the video?
As always, fantastic video. just a quick thought/idea.. what do you think of a track bed on that middle track, but no rails, as though they were used in the 70's and before, but taken away in 80's leaving stained ballest?
EverardJunction Perhaps combine your idea with Matthew's - shorten the 'short' siding 'til it's suitable for a shunter or two + buffer stop, but leave the sleeper-imprinted ballast for the rest beyond the buffer stop. Or perhaps old weed-ridden inset track past the buffer stop, due to an old yard area. Note that inset track would often be used for the fuelling point, too, to avoid damage to the sleepers. Anyway - it's looking good... :-)
Hi Richard, Great video. I am learning such a lot from you. My layout may not start for a year but your tips are logged in my mind. What is your cork thickness? Would you have raised track in sidings. I will be modelling LMS stream in the early 40's and most photographs of that era show the terra firma to be level with the tops of sleepers or higher. Barry. Devon.
OBowner Hi Barry. The cork in this area is 1/32'' so very thin. This is to allow clearance for the uncoupling magnets I'll be putting in later. The appearance of the yard once scenic should be mostly level.
Why don't you have a single slip switch for platform 3&4 so a train can depart from 4 to the outer track and at the same time one could come in on the 3
Owning & Running a Model Railway is an Evolution process, what once was is no longer, we continue to learn & improve, as always your videos are of a high quality both from the content & production, you make all look so simple and we your audience really appreciate your videos, Great a Work, Well Done!
TheAudiostud Thanks
This series of videos is proving so helpful to my own efforts to build my own layout, whether it is ideas I had not thought of or improving plans I already have on paper.
It is admirable that people such as yourself share your skills and ideas with other modellers. The clear, concise presentation is much appreciated.
+majorclaret Thanks for the comment.
Richard, your videos are inspirational. Everytime I watch one, my imagination runs riot and I start thinking of that model railway I would build, if only I had time. One day! Keep up the excellent work and the superb videos.
Well David. Not to pry in your life but did you get the time to build one in the ladt six years?
@@treinenliefde no not yet, give me another 6 😁
Fell asleep 1 minute in ...,woke up just as it was ending.....great vid
Ngl, watching you rip up the track is helping me get the courage to do a rather ambitious project of regauging a branchline on my local model railway from 00 to 009, thank you for the tips.
Another great video. I've often been scared off making modifications but these vids have give me the confidence. Cheers,
Excellent series of videos. Moving with the missus to a flat which has a (in her words) dedicated train room. The videos have inspired me and reminded me how to go about building a decent layout. Cheers!
Javelin395 Thanks mate. Dedicated train room sounds excellent. Good luck with the build.
Really enjoying this series, great idea to show back to basics as part of your existing layout.
Hi,My granddad was a platelayer I the mid 1930s. Your process for removing and re-installing/reworking the line is oddly reminiscent of how hr told me they did it! Remove the fishplates, remove the points, take up the track, reline the bed, lay track, ballast and move on. I'm enjoying watching these videos it brings back some old memories.Thanks a lot.Treereaver
Some good tips and advice there on another good update. Good series of films developing. Thanks for sharing.
Another great vid. This is on track to become the definitive series for model railway How-Tos. Good job!
Great workmanship again Richard. 👍👍 👍👍👍
Hello Richard! Got to say WOW! superbly produced and full of helpful tips. I am considering having an electro frog crossover which will be manual, so I was interested to see the use of insulators! I'll be trying to watch the rest of this series over time. Cheers and well done indeed. Mike
trenes
Wow..that's some Nice Model Rail Road Track building...I think I just learned a couple of things about laying the track down with the Cork...I am a Train and Rail fan....Thanks for posting...I enjoyed watching.
buidling a model railway is what I needed the most!
Hi thier this is one of the best videos I have seen on laying new track and also taking out a section of existing track with minimal dissruption . Thank you I have learned so much from this video . Cheers.......Peter.
A wonderful display that works nicely, I do admire you artisanship!
I've had no end of fun watching your videos and envying your layout (in a good way! lol), thanks for sharing all the great stuff! Look forward to more. Thanks.
Watching you rip that up at 14 minutes, oh my god that was SO soothing,
Superb Richard you sure know what your doing mate you make it look so easy and like the way you speed up the video in parts makes it very watchable cheers Kev
percomotion Thanks Kev. Glad you like it.
This project is a master class on doing it right, great video
Hi rich another interesting bid with great tips for modifying old track
Look forward to next one
Kind regards
Ralph
Nice station. Thanks for the video, very instructive, show me some of the best urban rail setup.
Illuminated buffer stops would look absolutely awsome on those sidings
Another great vid. I've always wondered how you'd get a new piece of track in, now I know about teasing the fishplates!!!
Sorry for the late reply Richard, another great and informative video, I never get bored or tired of watching them and quite often come back to view again - they're that good! lol. It's really great to see something build up from it's inception to what will be the finished item. Looking forward to the next part already. ............Graham
Graham Foulston Many thanks Graham. I sometimes watch my own videos to remember how I did stuff! Certainly comes in handy. Cheers
EverardJunction Yep, I know what you mean. I have literally just finished watching your coach lighting video (again!) - there is a good reason why. ;-)
Great mini series so far, really informative and very interesting! Food for thought! Thanks for sharing, Jack
excellent video series Richard. loving the build. it brings back the times, when I had layout's back at home. awesome stuff. :-)
liking the new sidings & the point work changes.
Great video as always rich.
The route i have chosen with track planning is to use anyrail to plan the track and then export over to train player this allows you to actually run scale trains over your trackplan and do any adjustments prior to track laying.
Good job Richard really informative I'm looking forward to the next video keep up the good work
Great series Richard, I have delayed starting the new OO layout to get a few more tips under my belt off you. Learning loads of stuff I never though I'd need to know!
***** Thanks, next part will be up soon.
+Ringo Simpkins It is a effective model of building a develop railway . Elumpa psoriasis expert alchemist is a effective source.
+EverardJunction hi, I've just started my own channel about my Model railway called the model railway files which has 6 episodes at the moment. Your videos are really helpful for me and may layout. Also, can you remember what size drill bit you used to drill the holes for the point motors?
+EverardJunction Another great video. I was just wondering where you get your peco electrofrog points from? - because I can't seem to find any.
Excellent information on the kinking in the tracks on the other videos especially when you see them on the train cambs in real life you can see the track wobble but you never see it kinking well tha leased I haven't or I may have forgotten.
The only thing I do different for your track laying on the male fish plate I'd put a dab of liquid solder and solder them together that way I know I get a good electrical connection between the two separate tracks.
You've done a excellent video on track fitting look forward to seeing the treble point being done with the electric frog as I don't use these types mine are always insulated frog points: it will be nice to see how I can do one on my new layout.
Excellent update on your latest project.
Ive always loved the American/English differences in terms: sleepers, points, carriages. It's fun.
Great update.
Wish I had a pneumatic chisel to strip scenics that fast.
Looking forward to seeing the progress on this piece if the layout.
Couple of suggestions, first leave the buffers in where the scrap yard was. It's a nice little feature that depicts what was there and in real life these things are often left in place (especially around Derbyshire). Secondly (speaking of Derbyshire), have you seen the carriage and DMU sidings at Derby?
Like your plan they are to one end of the station and have a mix of new and old buildings on the site.
Thought they may be of use to you for inspiration when you begin the scenery.
***** Thanks, I'm doing research on carriage sidings and planning scenics at the moment. Like the buffer idea, i'm planning on doing a small disused area.
Another great vid Richard. Always enjoy watching them.
Dave
Brilliant video! Really starting to take shape!
Love your videos they have given me great ideas for my model railway
you started this at the perfect time because im taking my layout to the next level
Superb video, watching you remove the old track shows how good the idea of laying cork under the track becomes for later alterations.
In Australia the slight raising of the outer rail is called "Super elevation", is the same term used in the UK?
Another way to undertake the joining of the track, is to remove the rail chairs with a scalpel on the sleepers at the joint. This way the sleeper is still attached, you can slide the fish plate onto the rail and there is no need to replace during ballasting.
Many thanks for the ongoing hints,
Neil
Wonderful video...I'm new to these and it would take me a while to make something like this or would never but your video is very educating. Thank you 😊👌👍
Excellent video as always! Some very useful tips. Looking forward to seeing this scene develop. I quite like the idea of the fueling point by the DMU sidings, should look really good!
Cheers
Joe
You make track work look so easy. Making modifications to my track would not be that easy. You would destroy the track. I glued it down with liquid nails. Great job on the track work. The area looks great.
Scott
Coming along nicely. Great video.
Thank you this is just what Im about to do and its my first time with Peco and electro frog points so I might hang on to watch you do it.
Great vid as per
Lots of cool changes and some good tips
Your videos are bloody great mate been watching for years, im making a start in N gauge on a 6ft x 3ft plywood board soon, will look through your videos for some tips, excellent work matey
Looking really good! Nice work!
I like the "fast forwarding" It makes me smile..... Like I said on previous video, I use a multi-tooland cut a slot under the throw bar. It works great.
I love the choice of music for the time lapse sections. 1980s style, just like the railway itself.
Slim Charles Thanks
realy enjoying watching your videos.
my father and I are about to start a big layout and will be definitely using advice and techniques shown in these clips.
only diffrence will be all our locomotives are analogue .
Hi Richard, very good tutoriel, Well done.
Gérard.
Nice vid and work as ever, I agree with one comment about the top three sidings possibly as shed coach storage, will you need the point work at the end of the shed? If so, viewing them will be a challenge. With the point work your doing on the far end of the station, this allows the shunter to run around any coaches, then back through the station, just an idea. All in all a great use of the space.... I'm enjoying your fine work, it'll look great. Regards Ian
wraggi1 Thanks Ian. The shed is just an idea at the moment, it may not span the full length. I need to do some more planning and research.
Q for buffs, is there a guide for signalling procedures in the 1980's? e.g how is control of a train handed over from one signal box to another? How would say a colliery order a train formation from a marshalling yard? teleprinter?
Fastest hammer in the West lol. Please keep posting.
Question: Will you do a tutorial on how to wire a three-way point with powered frog? I watched your tutorial on how to wire a two-way point and I seem to remember you commenting the three-way was much trickier... I even think you muttered something about you "couldn't quite remember" how you did it lol
Thoughts: Re a coach shed how will you be able to see the switches near the buffers - transparent roof perhaps? I like the idea of leaving room for scenery. Perhaps you could have some railroad men trundling carts and welding kits or whatever prototype yards do - similar to how you have passenger figures at your station platforms and your canal ad other.
sitearm Thanks. The 3 way point is in the next part and isn't too bad to wire up. I lost the instructions for my previous point so couldn't remember how to do it. Turns out its not too bad.
The coach shed is only an idea at the moment. It may only span part of the rear section. Will see how things go.
Ive searched the audio library for the music starting at 2.26 but I cannot find it, does anyone know what its called?Thanks
Thanks for explaining that about the glue......I am going to build a model railroad something something like this..........down the road.......
excellent video, thanks for sharing and keep up the great work :)
Sweet layout.
Interesting use of 3 way shunts in the yard, i hadn't come across them yet, looks like they could solve my problem of how to get the maximum yard in a small edge of layout. My question is though how much do they exist in real world track?
A man of excellent information 😄
Thanks for the tips! I am making notes on how to design, decorate, wire ect. my new set. Im reworking the older set in my grandmothers house. Tips for any good working welsh trains? Based in our local area of holyhead!
Solid work!
What's your trick to getting the straights to actually stay straight along a long section? I've got a couple of 4m main line straights on my layout but if you look down one end along them its obvious they aren't straight, even more annoying as I'm using set track on the straight sections.
Roberto Riccioni I use a long straight bit of timber or a spirit level to straighten the track. Works well, you can also by stuff called tracksetta which also works well.
Thanks again for another great, informative video.
Where can I get one of those Mini Jackhammer Chisels for pulling up ballast ?
Nah, just joking, but it looked cool in time lapse. A trick for N gauge modelers, I mark sleeper pin holes with a sharp pin probe then dremel with fine drill bit bit using the dremel flexible extension. This leaves one hand free to hold everything in place although probably not such a problem in OO as it's not so small.
Thanks again for sharing.
Stew
Looking good Richard and yet again a very informative video, about the same place as you with laying track on Bodmin 2 but I'm in no rush, watched you seep point motors installation video but looking forward to seeing the 3 way installation on the next video
Andy
Andy Hudson Thanks Andy. The 3 way point is covered in the next part, not too bad to wire up.
Very impressive.
I like that you explain everything.
I really like the music as well...what is it?
+McRocket All the music is from the UA-cam audio library. There is loads to choose from.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else is searching for how to build a model railroad layout try Vaxicorn Railroaders Membership Guide (just google it ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my m8 got excellent success with it.
Where can we get that rock like things around the tracks
I have a Couple Questions about : what kind of Glue would you use on that Cork section of Track ,you tore out, that goes into The New Yard you are building and how would you apply it, Would you use a paint brush to apply the Glue to the Cork to install it ?
Daniel Siskron I don't glue the cork down until I start ballasting. The ballast is glued with diluted PVA glue. Once dry that keeps everything in place. Hope that helps.
can you let me know the ideal spacing between the tracks as i noticed you was using a baton of wood. as i am planing my layout at the moment but have no rolling stock i don't wont to put lines to close
I'm starting a new layout from scratch and like your idea of cork under the track. i was wondering where you get it from as i am struggling to find somewhere to buy it! Love the video series and the detail is great! Thanks
2ktechnologies sell the Javis cork sheets on Ebay.
Im wondering if I can use a Bachmann EZ Track switch and ballast it (Since its the only switch I can find that is dcc controlled)
fantastic presentation super helpful for me, wish I'd seen your video before I started on my layout 2 years ago! where do you buy your track? have you done a video on installing point motors?
Hi, I'm having all sorts of derailments with Hornby point turn outs, are the peco ones better and can you use the Hornby surface mounted point motors on peco track, cheers?
Got a bit of a question about track pinning. I'm planning to re-do my layout at some point and I'd like to know what you tend to do when it comes to holding track down. Considering the cork sheeting and such, I'm a little worried about over-driving pins and accidentally creating dips in the track.
Please help
I have a layout which was built by me and my grandad however he has now passed away but due to the fact I was ten when I built it the track laying is not the best. What is the best way to make my trains run smoothly
Italkgadget I would try to lift it all the track where problems are and lay it properly. Depends what problems you're having. If the track isn't level it could be a baseboard issue. Do the trains derail? Or are they jerky?
It's just jerky and loses power in some places but occasionally trains derail
I don't want to lift all the track as it is quite sentimental but I might lift some
Cheers
Gadget
Italkgadget If it jerky then the track probably needs a very good clean and perhaps some extra dropper wires. If you use a multimeter you can find out where the electrical signal in the track is weak.
I was looking for information on Google's RAIL model. But this is quite nice as well.
Thanks for the informative video Richard 😁 I've just started my channel and will be building my first layout soon and your videos will be a very helpful reference source.
Going through the whole set of videos in one hit so apologies if any suggestions have already been made or are too late!!! Carriage sidings would also have held morning / overnight newspaper stock and Royal Mail sets, which would add a little variation to the yard. Cheers, Bob
A nice document.
How do you successfully bank the curves?
Have you considered applying a little warm water to the dried ballast before prying it off? More mess but lifts easier. Nice result though and great vid.
On bigger areas I do that, works very well.
I think your presentation is excellent unfortunately due to age and having Parkinson’s i am unable to build layouts myself so I am a watcher not a doer keep up the good work thanks nick
Hi Richard, great videos. I was just re-watching and wondered why you were using the crimping pliers on the joints in the speeded up part of the video?
+trainfest To slide the fish plates onto the rail. They can be stiff and hurt your fingers so i use pliers sometimes.
Looking good Richard.
Terry
Wondering if I could get some advice, I am starting an N scale layout and curious to what I could place my rail on. Any ideas?
Another great video! :)
So a insulation joiner acts like the incelfrog on a point?
Looking good
As always, fantastic video. just a quick thought/idea.. what do you think of a track bed on that middle track, but no rails, as though they were used in the 70's and before, but taken away in 80's leaving stained ballest?
Matthew Squires Possible. I've got a little disused scene i'm planning on doing somewhere.
EverardJunction Perhaps combine your idea with Matthew's - shorten the 'short' siding 'til it's suitable for a shunter or two + buffer stop, but leave the sleeper-imprinted ballast for the rest beyond the buffer stop. Or perhaps old weed-ridden inset track past the buffer stop, due to an old yard area. Note that inset track would often be used for the fuelling point, too, to avoid damage to the sleepers.
Anyway - it's looking good... :-)
how long is your 6 coach train yard track? i am wondering because i would like to make one, but i fear i may not have the room
kumozero The whole board is 7ft long. The 6 coach sidings are just over 6ft long. Hope that helps.
What tracks are they I want tracks like those
Did you insulate the loft in any way prior to all the modelling?
How big is your layout I’m asking because I am moving and wondering if I’ll have space to build something like this?
Hi Richard, Great video. I am learning such a lot from you. My layout may not start for a year but your tips are logged in my mind. What is your cork thickness? Would you have raised track in sidings. I will be modelling LMS stream in the early 40's and most photographs of that era show the terra firma to be level with the tops of sleepers or higher.
Barry. Devon.
OBowner Hi Barry. The cork in this area is 1/32'' so very thin. This is to allow clearance for the uncoupling magnets I'll be putting in later. The appearance of the yard once scenic should be mostly level.
Loving your videos, i think you have just convinced me to change over to electrofrog points.
Where can i buy all the trains and tracks and others ? i want to build
+Roger Gepte
From the store.
Roger Gepte Track : Peco. Locos / rolling stock: Hornby bachmann ect
Where did you get mini disc cutter
Edward Lake I've had for many years and can't remember. Did see one similar on ebuyer.com a few weeks ago.
And where u got all the carriges?
Why don't you have a single slip switch for platform 3&4 so a train can depart from 4 to the outer track and at the same time one could come in on the 3