Tom Davis I just watched a German review of these tires and schwabble is closer than schwall-bee. The German guy said like “schwy-bell.” It’s the croissant of cycling. Which way should I pronounce now?
bro, so brave to do this with a track pump. I heard most dudes need a large hadron collider to assist in the conversion. Kudos to you, dad jokes and all!
I followed this guide today and had a similar pain free experience on my Canyon AL 7. Thanks for the video. I have never ran tubeless before so lets see how it goes..
Hey I am planning to get a Grail AL 7.0 soon, and go tubeless, I have never used tubeless before, how is the experience compared to tubes? and also what are your opinions on the Grail?
@@alejandrogiraldo1 Awesome so far... Running on lower pressures and the wheels roll a lot smoother.. Conversion was simple. I have not had a puncture yet (touch wood) so can't comment on how good the setup is when you get a flat.
@@oclumhainabu Hey just got my Grail AL 7 a week ago and been thinking about converting to tubeless. How has your long term experience been with Tubeless and the bike in general?
@@andreaspauk9828 Bike in general is great, still going strong. I'm happy I swapped to tubeless and feels great on the road and trails. It is not without its maintenance though. Make sure levels of sealant are topped up and I also take spare tyre plugs with me just in case.
Same experience with Canyon Grizl and Reynolds ATR rims. Probably done 100 kms on the G1 Bite and when i changed to tubeless it was a breeze compared to my old bike. So nice to do when it all just works
Don't be surprise why those tires went in so easy... Once you had them mounted with a tube inside, the bead got well formed.. After that, it's really easy. In fact, that's the method that is recommended when having difficulty mounting tubeless tires... ie use a tube first. haha.
@@souloftheage I almost always do this, especially when the tubeless tires come folded and are creased. That crease sometimes make it difficult to create the initial seal.
Yep, have fitted my 2.8" 27.5" schwalbe rocket rons with a hi volume Topeak floor pump and that technique (gently slipping out the tube on one side without popping off the bead on the other makes you add more air than can escape later on).
I had almost the same experience: Brand New DTswiss GR1600 with New 40 mm G ones... Instant seal with a Joe blow and no Fluid. This Was more effortless than with a tube 😅 But I just did the Front tire to See how tubeless works for me in the long run
I wanted to let you know that after several latex baths and failures I am now running tubeless. There is a new product from Specialized called RapidAir sealant, which has been specially designed to be run at a high pressure (72psi+). Apparently it's ok to use co2 with it. It's expensive at $10 per 60ml bottle. Each tube takes a full bottle. Also I gave up on commercial bike syringes and went for Amazon available syringes for glue using blunt tips. They're really high quality. I'm using BSTEAN 100ml Syringe with 4 Inch 14G uger lock needles with a blunt tip. Those 14g will go through an e*13 stem which I'm using. Thanks for all your help and shared experiences.
I can’t believe how big that cassette is. Must be climbing 20%. Great technique in this video for mounting tubeless. I like Orange Endurance sealant as it does not have ammonia and hence no corrosion.
Shane is qualified use dad jokes and pizza pie sized cassettes.. he has joined my club: bald middle aged man with kids..his next move is adding stem spacer and telling the kids to get off the lawn.
I have the GR-1600 wheels and Schwalbe tubeless tyres. I love the combo. Yes they really are that easy to fit. No booster pump, just a normal track pump does the job.
The other little tip I've seen is to use a little sealant around the valve before you push it all the way in. Guess to help fully seal around the valve as only doing it finger tight.
I converted these tires with a black sidewall on a Fulcrum 7 DB wheelset to tubeless a couple days ago... And have the same experience... It was very easy with no problems at all! For tire prssure. I would start at 2.5 bars rear and 2.3 bars in the front...
Very nice bike! Tried most sealants available in the UK and stuck with Orange Seal Endurance for the last 18 months without issues. Enjoy the groad! (PS. Doc Blue is same as Stan’s).
I have used stans and orange seal, both work great. Orange seal saved my bacon one day when I got stuck on a trail covered in millions *ish of cat heads, my tires were coated with the buggers, I did get covered in sealant when I removed them at speed with my foot. I lost some PSI but I got home fine! (23PSI when I started). Only fails of tubeless have been myself when I don't refresh the sealant or pull back the rim tape by mistake. Gravel riding I've heard mid to high 20's on the JRA podcast, I went from 40 down to mid 20's on tubes on my hardtail on a 70km corrugated gravel ride. anyway, this is more mountain bike stuff so YMMV Great video, want to see more on the grail! thanks Shane
NedT how have you found your tubless on corrugated roads? Had the same issue of the tubeless unsealing. Revealing later. But 2k of rutted roads. 2 times and gone soft by the end.
Matthew Locker I’ve never had an issue with corrugations or slamming down rock gardens, again I’m mostly MTB but I run 25/30mm rims with 2.0/2.3 depending on the bike. I also run gorilla tape (cloth tape) as my tubeless rim tape (the expensive cloth tape is cheap compared to the outrageous price of tubeless tape) the width is the whole inner width of the rim. 1 wrap around the rim with some overlap over the valve stem. If it’s not sealing with a hand pump or a loose fit do another wrap until it’s sealed. If you go to low in pressure you may burp your tyre and it is possible to pinch flat the tyre on sharp edges (curbs/gutters). How old was the sealant and rim tape? Just Ike tires they are consumables.
OK Shane, good job! But that's only the first and rather easy part of it. Turns out that some rim/tyre combinations tend to lose air pressure afterwards (i.e. over night). One way to overcome this is to start riding the newly converted tyres with a good 4-5 bar pressure and let the sealant do its work. I made the mistake of not doing this and the tyres would always lose pressure over night with sealant coming out and not getting dry ...
Great video! That went brilliantly. When it comes to sealants I heard a little while ago that someone at Bike Radar was working on piece looking into which sealants functioned best as well as which ones were environmentally friendlier than others. Apparently some are straight up toxic.
Thoughts @ 00:00:00 - Can't wait to watch Shane lose his composure on this on :D Thoughts @ 04:00:00 - Righto seems like he might have this under control .... now expecting 0 expletives. ... Yep Shane nailed it. Waiting for the new channel "The Shane Miller Llama Gravel Hour" to pop up ;)
Shane, the Schwalbe tubeless sealant has a very similar formula compared to the stan's. I have mafe great experiences with the effetto mariposa caffelatex! They sealed most of my punctures. The ones they didn't, I used maxalamis!
30-35 is about what I'm using on my Specialized Sequoia with 700x42 tires, and I'm 90 kg. Now I use the Speciallized Sawtooth tires and they are a bit on the stiff side but I guess you could experiment with slightly lowering the pressure. With 47 mm "road plus" tires on 650b wheels I typically stay below 30 psi, both front and rear. Also, your experience mimics mine when it comes to setting up gravel tires tubeless. They just pop straight on with just a track pump, I haven't even had to use soapy water. And then they just stay there. I still haven't dared to try tubeless road tires, for various reasons.
Great video. Thanks. Will be really interested in what you think of the Grail. I have the CF7.0 and absolutely love it. Worth putting your Hunts on it - might need to swap the discs - and give it a road review too, for those like me who want a versatile winter bike. With Roval CL50s on mine, it flies on the road and loved taking it off-road at the end of the summer too. End of N+1??!
I'm a big fan of Muc Off sealant. The big advantage of it is that like most it doesn't dry out and form annoying sticky balls inside the tyres that are a pain to remove, it simply washes of with water. Which really good if you're ever needing to to do any wheel repairs etc. Great content and I hope you're enjoying the gravel experience. Welcome to the dark side 😂
As far as I know the doc blue is made by stans. For a guide to sealants in real life check out bike radar test on about 10 different manufacturers. I have used Stans for about 10 years and it does the job. Try Stans Dart for a quick repair of a hole which is too big for the sealant to fix. I have had the same quick install on my Schwalbe Pro one on my road bike. The key to success is finding a brand of rim and tyre that work together then stick with it.
I always leave the soapy water on until after the sealant is added and the tires are up to pressure. Then shake the wheels to get sealant around the bead. No bubbles = happy days!
Great video as always. Might I suggest a PARK TOOL VC-1 VALVE CORE TOOL (or something similar) to toss in a saddle bag? I have had a valve core shoot out when I tried to drop the pressure and lost it immediately, then needing to call the missus for a ride since I didn't have a spare. Cheers!
Tyre pressures are such a personal thing. Run a certain pressure. Then change it. Then ask yourself was that better, worse or the same? 👍🏻 This worse better or the same? method works with everything. Especially when setting up MTB suspension.
Orange Seal Endurance. I find I can go 6-8 months on one charge. Come fall (now) I switch to winter rims and start with fresh sealant after a good cleaning of the inside of the rim.
Good video; I've found switching to tubeless hit & miss. I can do exactly the same for front and back wheels, yet only one will work. So, another layer of rim tape and/or another type of valve....it can be pretty frustrating.
well... first to mention it... interesting... regarding sealant Shane... the real trick is.... glitter... add a small amount of glitter (stuff you use for arts and crafts, purple works the best :) ) to which ever sealant you prefer... acts like platelets and seals up a puncture much faster...
Oh my god, soapy water ftw. It suddenly clicked as to why - so there is less friction between the rim tape and the tire, which means it can slip under pressure and hook on quickly. I'm ecstatic I was able to get both of my tires on after soapy water, while had no luck with it before using it. Thx!!
Silca just added a tire pressure calculator on their website for all cycling disciplines. Just add your weight and weight of bicycle, tire width and cycling discipline and then your given the exact tire pressures front/rear.
60cc seems on the high end of sealant. I run Schwalbe 32s and used 30-40cc(not too precise at the Allen home) and they have held tight for one year.. But I also have much higher pressure, so maybe that's the difference?. MUCH different to get a new tubeless tire on: thick bead makes it hard
My bike mechanic buddy swears by Stans. I used to use Orange but he jokes that the only flat tubeless setups that come into the shop happen to also use Orange. One data point, but perhaps it's a good one :)
What do you think of the wheelset? I picked up the GR1600 a few months ago while I was waiting on XDR hubs for my other wheels. They're somewhat heavy but seem to ride nicely with the Rene-Herse Barlow Pass I put on them.
I've been waiting for a puncture before converting my Canyon over to tubeless. 9 months in and still waiting. But after seeing this, I may have a task for the weekend.
Shoulda weighed the wheels before and after the conversion. I primarily use road tubeless for the weight savings. I use a spray bottle with soapy water to help seat the tire
Tried this a couple days ago with my bike, a Canyon Grail AL, same rim tire combination. Unfortunately there was coming air out of the rim joint of the front wheel. So I broke up and put the tube back into it. Any tips what to do now?
You cant always blame tubeless, if something isnt working its more the rim / tire combo, I put some pirelli cinturato 28mm tubeless tires on my 17mm int. giant wheels and could basically pop onto the bead with a hand pump and at 0 psi was hard to pop off the bead, well I swapped to some roval 21mm int. wheels with same tires but new and I literally needed 500psi nitrogen and no core in my tubeless valve to pop onto the bead, no bike shop in Australia would be able to get it on :) Also its dangerous at about 20psi the tire just pops off the bead, 4000km no punctures and it works just fine but its a terrible setup, it would be interesting to see if a inner tube would pop it onto the bead.
Need advice regarding pressure when I go tubeless.... Got a Ribble CGR on order, coming with Mavic Allroad UST 700c Wheels and Schwable G One Allroad 700x40c tyres. Do mixed riding, mainly road due to club; with weight around 82kg. What PSI would guys recommend?
Weight 150lbs, 650b 42mm tire I run at 26psi front and 28 psi rear. But my gravel is much bumpier than your. 700c 40mm have even more volume so you might be able to run similar pressure, i guess.
I've used tyre levers on every tubeless mounting I've done both old and new tyres and I havent had any issues seating them. I don't understand why people keep insisting that you can't user levers. Also Doc Blue = Stans sealant.
I can't get them off with my fingers. *shrug*. Doc Blue = Stans.. I spotted this last night looking into other sealants. I never knew they were one and the same. Any tips for the best goop to use?
Hey Shane, nice video. Did you know, that you can remove the lever of the thru axles. Aero gainz and our Weightweenie Rides of Japan would appreciate it too. ;)
Why the soapy water? Wide tyres like these slip on quite easily. I actually made my own grail tires tubeless last week. I did need a tubeless booster for one of the tires, but soapy water is to check for leaks. Getting the beads to seat is easy with supple tires like these :)
Thanks for the Video! How did the "Schwabble" perform on tubeless? Did you run into any problems? Heard other have problems with leaking on the sidewalls on othes tires.
Thanks for a great tutorial. Did those rims come with proper rim tape or did you remove the original rim tape and replace with new before installing the rest? And if your running TL on the original rim tape, how is it holding up? Ordered a bike with the same rims and wanna convert, but not sure if I need new tape or not.
Dear Shane, the end of last year‘s bike season I went to tubeless with my gravel bike (same gravel bike from Canyon). However, what I have observed is that both tires loose air after a couple of days, maybe a week, and before each ride, I had to check and adjust the pressure. Is this a normal behavior of the tubeless setup? If not, what would you recommend? Thanks in advance. Br. Edgar
I have used several sealants and I think this is the best! I see it quite Often after riding that I had a 'flat' and the sealant sealed the hole even without I noticed. I only had one real flat but that was a slice of more than 1cm, so impossible to seal! I like it a lot!
How do u like the yellow pump is it holding up good? (Probably should get something to check tire pressure and faster pumping of mountain bike tires is a plus) or do u have a better option
Just did mine but didnt get the popping sound on the rear, and one the front I think it might have unseated when I deflated, and there was no popping sound when I reinflated. That said, it all looks good with a nice smooth tyre-rim interface and holding air. Should I be concerned?
Great video, thank you! I've recently ordered a Grail CF SL 8 Di2 (cannot wait to ride it) and the guys from Canyon told me that the rim tape will have to be replaced for tubeless rim tape. I don't see you/Shane changing this and it looks like we've got exactly the same tyres and wheels. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance! :)
just bought the g one ultragrip tan wal 50 mm , the came in at 750 gram instead of the 560 grams schwalbe says !!!!!! For sure i'l send them back ! What happend Schwalbe ??
That feeling of setting up tubeless without any issues never gets old.
why did Canyon supply the wheels with tubes?
Came for the tubeless tips, stayed for the 'Schwabble'! 🤣
Tom Davis I just watched a German review of these tires and schwabble is closer than schwall-bee. The German guy said like “schwy-bell.” It’s the croissant of cycling. Which way should I pronounce now?
@@HamBone123456789ten "Sch-val-ber"
@@andydeere52 sch-val-bert-einstein
We say in german schwal-be. But the e in a half.
Your gravel roads are smother than our tarmac roads in uk!
bro, so brave to do this with a track pump.
I heard most dudes need a large hadron collider to assist in the conversion.
Kudos to you, dad jokes and all!
hahahah! I love comments like this. Thank you. :)
I followed this guide today and had a similar pain free experience on my Canyon AL 7. Thanks for the video. I have never ran tubeless before so lets see how it goes..
Nice work!
Hey I am planning to get a Grail AL 7.0 soon, and go tubeless, I have never used tubeless before, how is the experience compared to tubes? and also what are your opinions on the Grail?
@@alejandrogiraldo1 Awesome so far... Running on lower pressures and the wheels roll a lot smoother.. Conversion was simple. I have not had a puncture yet (touch wood) so can't comment on how good the setup is when you get a flat.
@@oclumhainabu Hey just got my Grail AL 7 a week ago and been thinking about converting to tubeless. How has your long term experience been with Tubeless and the bike in general?
@@andreaspauk9828 Bike in general is great, still going strong. I'm happy I swapped to tubeless and feels great on the road and trails. It is not without its maintenance though. Make sure levels of sealant are topped up and I also take spare tyre plugs with me just in case.
Same experience with Canyon Grizl and Reynolds ATR rims. Probably done 100 kms on the G1 Bite and when i changed to tubeless it was a breeze compared to my old bike. So nice to do when it all just works
Great tutorial! Keep it up! Greetings from Switzerland : )
As opposed to soapy water, use a bit of sealant on the bead. Helps to glue the tyre to the rim, so stops burping at ultra low cyclocross pressures.
Don't be surprise why those tires went in so easy... Once you had them mounted with a tube inside, the bead got well formed.. After that, it's really easy. In fact, that's the method that is recommended when having difficulty mounting tubeless tires... ie use a tube first. haha.
agreed.
@@souloftheage I almost always do this, especially when the tubeless tires come folded and are creased. That crease sometimes make it difficult to create the initial seal.
Yep, have fitted my 2.8" 27.5" schwalbe rocket rons with a hi volume Topeak floor pump and that technique (gently slipping out the tube on one side without popping off the bead on the other makes you add more air than can escape later on).
Or/and these rims have the Bead Lock or Bead Hump. All tubeless rims should have that. Makes life so much better.
I just converted my Grail to tubeless using Schwalbe’s own kit - same as you’re experience - popped on first time using a std. track pump.
Any issues since conversion? I just did the same yesterday..
I had almost the same experience:
Brand New DTswiss GR1600 with New 40 mm G ones... Instant seal with a Joe blow and no Fluid.
This Was more effortless than with a tube 😅
But I just did the Front tire to See how tubeless works for me in the long run
I wanted to let you know that after several latex baths and failures I am now running tubeless. There is a new product from Specialized called RapidAir sealant, which has been specially designed to be run at a high pressure (72psi+). Apparently it's ok to use co2 with it. It's expensive at $10 per 60ml bottle. Each tube takes a full bottle. Also I gave up on commercial bike syringes and went for Amazon available syringes for glue using blunt tips. They're really high quality. I'm using BSTEAN 100ml Syringe with 4 Inch 14G uger lock needles with a blunt tip. Those 14g will go through an e*13 stem which I'm using. Thanks for all your help and shared experiences.
I need to make a ring tone with that tire seating sound.
I can’t believe how big that cassette is. Must be climbing 20%. Great technique in this video for mounting tubeless. I like Orange Endurance sealant as it does not have ammonia and hence no corrosion.
Shane is qualified use dad jokes and pizza pie sized cassettes.. he has joined my club: bald middle aged man with kids..his next move is adding stem spacer and telling the kids to get off the lawn.
Thank you. It was in time for guests.
Spammer
Thanks for the film. Gonna try this soon. Will be using Peaty's Biofibre sealant.
I have the GR-1600 wheels and Schwalbe tubeless tyres. I love the combo. Yes they really are that easy to fit. No booster pump, just a normal track pump does the job.
The other little tip I've seen is to use a little sealant around the valve before you push it all the way in. Guess to help fully seal around the valve as only doing it finger tight.
I converted these tires with a black sidewall on a Fulcrum 7 DB wheelset to tubeless a couple days ago... And have the same experience... It was very easy with no problems at all! For tire prssure. I would start at 2.5 bars rear and 2.3 bars in the front...
Just converted my Grail to tubeless, easy as pie! Thanks for the video :-D
Awesome. And stay tuned! I'm back on the gravelly stuff very soon! (I can't wait!)
You pronounced SCHWALBE in nearly perfect german! Thank you!
Very nice bike! Tried most sealants available in the UK and stuck with Orange Seal Endurance for the last 18 months without issues. Enjoy the groad! (PS. Doc Blue is same as Stan’s).
Orange Seal is the best IMO. Been using it for years and it always seals well and doesnt clump as much as Stans.
pronounciation tip from a German: Schwalbe ist pronounced "shwalbe" with a spoken e (like in porsche). great vid!
Thanks! 🇩🇪
(and it means "swallow" as in the bird :-) )
This "shwabl" was really unforgettable. Maybe it was even better than the original.
@@ЙцукенСын Right! Especialley since "shwabl" sounds like "wobble" in german.
I have used stans and orange seal, both work great. Orange seal saved my bacon one day when I got stuck on a trail covered in millions *ish of cat heads, my tires were coated with the buggers, I did get covered in sealant when I removed them at speed with my foot. I lost some PSI but I got home fine! (23PSI when I started).
Only fails of tubeless have been myself when I don't refresh the sealant or pull back the rim tape by mistake.
Gravel riding I've heard mid to high 20's on the JRA podcast, I went from 40 down to mid 20's on tubes on my hardtail on a 70km corrugated gravel ride.
anyway, this is more mountain bike stuff so YMMV
Great video, want to see more on the grail! thanks Shane
Cheers Ned. I'll check out the orange seal next round.
NedT how have you found your tubless on corrugated roads? Had the same issue of the tubeless unsealing. Revealing later. But 2k of rutted roads. 2 times and gone soft by the end.
Matthew Locker I’ve never had an issue with corrugations or slamming down rock gardens, again I’m mostly MTB but I run 25/30mm rims with 2.0/2.3 depending on the bike.
I also run gorilla tape (cloth tape) as my tubeless rim tape (the expensive cloth tape is cheap compared to the outrageous price of tubeless tape) the width is the whole inner width of the rim. 1 wrap around the rim with some overlap over the valve stem. If it’s not sealing with a hand pump or a loose fit do another wrap until it’s sealed.
If you go to low in pressure you may burp your tyre and it is possible to pinch flat the tyre on sharp edges (curbs/gutters).
How old was the sealant and rim tape? Just Ike tires they are consumables.
OK Shane, good job! But that's only the first and rather easy part of it. Turns out that some rim/tyre combinations tend to lose air pressure afterwards (i.e. over night). One way to overcome this is to start riding the newly converted tyres with a good 4-5 bar pressure and let the sealant do its work. I made the mistake of not doing this and the tyres would always lose pressure over night with sealant coming out and not getting dry ...
Thanks for this tip!
Wow! It never goes that smooth for me. That was awesome
New tyres + fresh/new rims + soapy goodness = winning combo. I think my relief was captured well :)
Great video! That went brilliantly. When it comes to sealants I heard a little while ago that someone at Bike Radar was working on piece looking into which sealants functioned best as well as which ones were environmentally friendlier than others. Apparently some are straight up toxic.
Stran's is promoted as not toxic. The media materials says just wipe it off your hands onto your jersey. It comes off in the wash.
Thoughts @ 00:00:00 - Can't wait to watch Shane lose his composure on this on :D
Thoughts @ 04:00:00 - Righto seems like he might have this under control .... now expecting 0 expletives.
... Yep Shane nailed it. Waiting for the new channel "The Shane Miller Llama Gravel Hour" to pop up ;)
Shane, the Schwalbe tubeless sealant has a very similar formula compared to the stan's. I have mafe great experiences with the effetto mariposa caffelatex! They sealed most of my punctures. The ones they didn't, I used maxalamis!
30-35 is about what I'm using on my Specialized Sequoia with 700x42 tires, and I'm 90 kg. Now I use the Speciallized Sawtooth tires and they are a bit on the stiff side but I guess you could experiment with slightly lowering the pressure. With 47 mm "road plus" tires on 650b wheels I typically stay below 30 psi, both front and rear.
Also, your experience mimics mine when it comes to setting up gravel tires tubeless. They just pop straight on with just a track pump, I haven't even had to use soapy water. And then they just stay there. I still haven't dared to try tubeless road tires, for various reasons.
Best DYI on 2-bless - THANKS, Mate. As always, super useful :-)
Great video. Thanks. Will be really interested in what you think of the Grail. I have the CF7.0 and absolutely love it. Worth putting your Hunts on it - might need to swap the discs - and give it a road review too, for those like me who want a versatile winter bike. With Roval CL50s on mine, it flies on the road and loved taking it off-road at the end of the summer too. End of N+1??!
I'm a big fan of Muc Off sealant. The big advantage of it is that like most it doesn't dry out and form annoying sticky balls inside the tyres that are a pain to remove, it simply washes of with water. Which really good if you're ever needing to to do any wheel repairs etc. Great content and I hope you're enjoying the gravel experience. Welcome to the dark side 😂
Jeez, you could almost run track silk tyres on those gravel roads!! 😀
As far as I know the doc blue is made by stans. For a guide to sealants in real life check out bike radar test on about 10 different manufacturers. I have used Stans for about 10 years and it does the job. Try Stans Dart for a quick repair of a hole which is too big for the sealant to fix. I have had the same quick install on my Schwalbe Pro one on my road bike. The key to success is finding a brand of rim and tyre that work together then stick with it.
Much better this time, good job!
I always leave the soapy water on until after the sealant is added and the tires are up to pressure. Then shake the wheels to get sealant around the bead. No bubbles = happy days!
Been using Orange sealant for a long time now on both mountain and road.
Me too. I use their endurance sealant because it's supposed to stay good for twice as long.
Great video as always. Might I suggest a PARK TOOL VC-1 VALVE CORE TOOL (or something similar) to toss in a saddle bag? I have had a valve core shoot out when I tried to drop the pressure and lost it immediately, then needing to call the missus for a ride since I didn't have a spare. Cheers!
I recall Schwalbe is German for Sparrow or some other small bird... it was the name for the Me-262 jet aircraft :)
Been using Endurance Orange sealant with results, would recommend Stan's second. Cheers!
Just looking into Orange now. It'll be next on my shopping list.
Using this also after recommendations, so far so good. Also tried Muc-Off on recent GP5000 conversion, seems decent and favourable reviews.
My experience with converting the Grail was exactly the same! Effortless with that rim and tire pairing.
Tyre pressures are such a personal thing.
Run a certain pressure. Then change it.
Then ask yourself was that better, worse or the same? 👍🏻
This worse better or the same? method works with everything.
Especially when setting up MTB suspension.
Orange Seal Endurance. I find I can go 6-8 months on one charge. Come fall (now) I switch to winter rims and start with fresh sealant after a good cleaning of the inside of the rim.
Looking forward to do the same thing in a view weeks from now...
beautiful bike!
Good video; I've found switching to tubeless hit & miss. I can do exactly the same for front and back wheels, yet only one will work. So, another layer of rim tape and/or another type of valve....it can be pretty frustrating.
You pronounce "Schwalbe" perfect!
well... first to mention it... interesting... regarding sealant Shane... the real trick is.... glitter... add a small amount of glitter (stuff you use for arts and crafts, purple works the best :) ) to which ever sealant you prefer... acts like platelets and seals up a puncture much faster...
I’ve heard of this. Never dared try. And whoever sprays that all over the next bunch ride will forever be known as Princess Sparkle! 🦄 🤣
Oh my god, soapy water ftw. It suddenly clicked as to why - so there is less friction between the rim tape and the tire, which means it can slip under pressure and hook on quickly. I'm ecstatic I was able to get both of my tires on after soapy water, while had no luck with it before using it. Thx!!
Thanks for posting, away to do the same thing... What size of valves was used? would 40mm work?
Silca just added a tire pressure calculator on their website for all cycling disciplines. Just add your weight and weight of bicycle, tire width and cycling discipline and then your given the exact tire pressures front/rear.
60cc seems on the high end of sealant. I run Schwalbe 32s and used 30-40cc(not too precise at the Allen home) and they have held tight for one year.. But I also have much higher pressure, so maybe that's the difference?. MUCH different to get a new tubeless tire on: thick bead makes it hard
Wrong message.
Worked for me, thanks ✌
shhwoll-bay
ahhhhhhhhhhh nice.
My bike mechanic buddy swears by Stans. I used to use Orange but he jokes that the only flat tubeless setups that come into the shop happen to also use Orange. One data point, but perhaps it's a good one :)
What do you think of the wheelset? I picked up the GR1600 a few months ago while I was waiting on XDR hubs for my other wheels. They're somewhat heavy but seem to ride nicely with the Rene-Herse Barlow Pass I put on them.
7:15 30 on front and 35 on rear as recommended? I see printed on the side of the Schwalbe tire: 45 - 70 psi
What am I missing?
10 to 15 psi.
@@oldanslo This is not a MB.
@Shane Miller - Great video, and channel. I am about to do this to the same tyres on the same bike. Do you remember what valves you used?
The ones they supplied. Not sure what type they were.
Once you go gravel you never go back!!
Ok now another set of wheels and TL tires. Swap the tires so we see your luck v2.0 with prev sealed tires and/or wheels. -U10
I've been waiting for a puncture before converting my Canyon over to tubeless. 9 months in and still waiting. But after seeing this, I may have a task for the weekend.
Let me know how it goes. 🚲👌🏼
Probably get a puncture first ride with tubeless so !
Those trails!!!
Shoulda weighed the wheels before and after the conversion. I primarily use road tubeless for the weight savings. I use a spray bottle with soapy water to help seat the tire
Tried this a couple days ago with my bike, a Canyon Grail AL, same rim tire combination. Unfortunately there was coming air out of the rim joint of the front wheel. So I broke up and put the tube back into it. Any tips what to do now?
I'd replace the rim tape and try again.
You cant always blame tubeless, if something isnt working its more the rim / tire combo, I put some pirelli cinturato 28mm tubeless tires on my 17mm int. giant wheels and could basically pop onto the bead with a hand pump and at 0 psi was hard to pop off the bead, well I swapped to some roval 21mm int. wheels with same tires but new and I literally needed 500psi nitrogen and no core in my tubeless valve to pop onto the bead, no bike shop in Australia would be able to get it on :) Also its dangerous at about 20psi the tire just pops off the bead, 4000km no punctures and it works just fine but its a terrible setup, it would be interesting to see if a inner tube would pop it onto the bead.
Need advice regarding pressure when I go tubeless....
Got a Ribble CGR on order, coming with Mavic Allroad UST 700c Wheels and Schwable G One Allroad 700x40c tyres.
Do mixed riding, mainly road due to club; with weight around 82kg.
What PSI would guys recommend?
Weight 150lbs,
650b 42mm tire I run at 26psi front and 28 psi rear. But my gravel is much bumpier than your.
700c 40mm have even more volume so you might be able to run similar pressure, i guess.
That rear cassette reminds me of those insanly huge spinning rims on rap cars...
Let's get real, 2x in the front wasn't for nothing.
Good work :-D I bet you could have skipped the dish washing liquid... Congrats on the little one :-)
It doubled as a tyre cleaner after a few kms in the dust and dirt. :)
I've used tyre levers on every tubeless mounting I've done both old and new tyres and I havent had any issues seating them. I don't understand why people keep insisting that you can't user levers. Also Doc Blue = Stans sealant.
I can't get them off with my fingers. *shrug*. Doc Blue = Stans.. I spotted this last night looking into other sealants. I never knew they were one and the same. Any tips for the best goop to use?
@@gplama I use the stans race sealant. Seems to work good!
Hey Shane, nice video. Did you know, that you can remove the lever of the thru axles. Aero gainz and our Weightweenie Rides of Japan would appreciate it too. ;)
For the longest time I didn't know that. I learned about it from a different Lama video.
Why the soapy water? Wide tyres like these slip on quite easily. I actually made my own grail tires tubeless last week. I did need a tubeless booster for one of the tires, but soapy water is to check for leaks. Getting the beads to seat is easy with supple tires like these :)
Thanks for the Video! How did the "Schwabble" perform on tubeless? Did you run into any problems? Heard other have problems with leaking on the sidewalls on othes tires.
No issues on the rides I did on these.
Nice saddle to bar drop on the grail! Always a challenge to achieve that on gravel/endurance bikes. Wot size Shane?
This one is medium.
Thanks for a great tutorial. Did those rims come with proper rim tape or did you remove the original rim tape and replace with new before installing the rest? And if your running TL on the original rim tape, how is it holding up? Ordered a bike with the same rims and wanna convert, but not sure if I need new tape or not.
The tape that was on them was fine 👌🏼
Dear Shane,
the end of last year‘s bike season I went to tubeless with my gravel bike (same gravel bike from Canyon).
However, what I have observed is that both tires loose air after a couple of days, maybe a week, and before each ride, I had to check and adjust the pressure.
Is this a normal behavior of the tubeless setup? If not, what would you recommend?
Thanks in advance.
Br. Edgar
I find all tubeless setups will lose air overnight so will always need a top-up before riding.
Muc-Off sealent is the best!
Is is BRIGHT PINK!? That'd be one hell of a mess if it is. I want it! :)
@@gplama Yes it is the pink one!
I have used several sealants and I think this is the best! I see it quite Often after riding that I had a 'flat' and the sealant sealed the hole even without I noticed. I only had one real flat but that was a slice of more than 1cm, so impossible to seal! I like it a lot!
How do u like the yellow pump is it holding up good? (Probably should get something to check tire pressure and faster pumping of mountain bike tires is a plus) or do u have a better option
Yep, the Joe Blow Sport is holding up well. amzn.to/3cBHVmb
love tubeless
No idea where / when I would use it as never ridden on gravel but I want that bike.
Great video! Any resources on recommended pressure? You mentioned you found 35 & 30 for your weight on 40s on gravel.
It really depends on your weight, the surface(s) you're riding, and preference.
The ,, schwabel” g one tyres 😂👌
Just did mine but didnt get the popping sound on the rear, and one the front I think it might have unseated when I deflated, and there was no popping sound when I reinflated. That said, it all looks good with a nice smooth tyre-rim interface and holding air. Should I be concerned?
Sometimes they'll slide on without pops. As long as the tyre is even when you spin it, you're good.
I’ve got the AL version of that bike with the same tires. Where can you find replacements to buy? I can’t find the tan ones, just black.
Thanks for convincing me to try it out on my Grail! What valves are you using?
The supplied valves. Not sure which ones they are.
Thanks!!
Great video, thank you! I've recently ordered a Grail CF SL 8 Di2 (cannot wait to ride it) and the guys from Canyon told me that the rim tape will have to be replaced for tubeless rim tape. I don't see you/Shane changing this and it looks like we've got exactly the same tyres and wheels. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance! :)
It depends what they ship with I guess. This video was a while back.
@@gplama Hiya Shane, thanks for your reply. Is there any chance you remember which rim tape yours came with? 😅
No idea.
Smoooothe!
is the standard equiped rimtape in these DT swiss good enough, no need to add aftermarket tubeless rimtape?
I used what was on the wheels for this conversion (iirc).
Schwalbes Docblue is being produced by Stan's. So Stans could be the same formular.
Tubeless is easy. Nice vid. But it’s so much easier than tubes imo
I'm having small issues with the front end coming loose after long off road rides. Any experiences with this Shane?
I'm riding the 2020 CF SL Di2
All ok so far. I’ll keep an eye one it after more kms.
Does anyone know the type of tubes that you should get for these, in the case of a puncture on the road? Are the Schwalbe SV17 compatible?
just bought the g one ultragrip tan wal 50 mm , the came in at 750 gram instead of the 560 grams schwalbe says !!!!!! For sure i'l send them back ! What happend Schwalbe ??
Does tubeless valves are included with grail ?
Hey Shane, what tubeless valves did u use, brand and length?
I can't recall. Canyon AU sent them over when I told them I was going to convert their bike over to tubeless.
No worries, thanks for getting back to me anyway, think I’ll go for the 44mm Muck-off valves. 💪
here : same bike (3.8 back a and 3.2 Front , 92 kG)
Shane, what no puncture test?