3 Cheap & Easy Ways To Increase Horsepower
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- If you don't have a lot of time or money, but want to increase horsepower to an older vehicle for cheap, here are the 3 best ways to go about it!
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Just clarifying, it’s exhaust scavenging not back pressure. In a nutshell, The low pressure behind the exhaust creates a sucking effect (vacuum). During Valve Overlap, the vacuum pulls out more burnt exhaust gasses. It also helps to pull in more fresh air. Please don’t hate my comment I’m only trying to help people understand and spread awesome information!!! Great video!!
Respect.
You forgot the fourth one. Everyone knows edelbrock stickers add like 50 horses per sticker...🤣🤣🤣
I can't......
Adds coolness to
Hahaha I wish it did that for my mark Viii 🚗💨💥💜
What about a chev badge
How about an exhaust bigger than your trash can
3 cheap ways: Flip the air cleaner lid, fatten up the carb jetting and recurve the distributor for a more aggressive advance. Total cost, about $25.
matt bauckman yep yep truck got 268000 touched the distributor aftermarket air cleaner from swap meet and a breather cap it does peel outs now
GM jetting often too rich to start with... read the sparkplugs to see where you are on jetting... you tube videos show you how...
Changing from points to electronic distributor is least likely to gain any power... but gain reliability... points can need cleaning every 10,000 miles... or can oxidize if engine sits for long periods of time... Advancing ignition timing may give good HP boost...
Go 3" or 4" tall air filter if have the hood clearance... and/or go cold air setup...
Headers and dual exhaust can free up 25 - 200 HP depending on what was on there before and what engine you have...
Mr Gasket made a great kit for HEI back in the day... it was springs and weights that changed the advance
@@redram5150 they still make them. I always run them because the stock weights and springs are usually rusted and gummed up. Id rather buy a $15 advance kit and make the engine more responsive and a little more low end torque than spend an hour cleaning my stock weights and springs.
You are absolutely correct.
They make an electronic ignition kit that replaces all of the old points in that small distributor which work great! As for the headers on a small block chevy, use a set of 1 3/4" long tube headers with 2 1/4" dual exhaust. This will cover everything from low end power to top end. Good video!
Yeah those EFI kits are a breeze to replace with the old points too! Thank you for sharing the header dimension tips!
The first optional air cleaner helps it breathe better but it actually reduces HP. Due to the heat off of the engine. The second option would be the best. For every 10deg you lower air inlet temps you gain 1hp.
In a round about way, you are correct. However depending on climate an open air can do a lot of good. When you have -20 degree or colder temps coming through the grille it cools off that air coming off the engine pretty quickly.
Thermo wrap the headers, they tend to raise the under hood temp.
I don’t drive with the hood
If you're really cheap considering air cleaner ,you can just get a longer center screw,and get a tall air filter ,like a 5 inch ,you just have to buy the right diameter filter
Haha very true, that'd do the trick! Thanks for the comment
u also have to make sure there is clearance with the hood
I’ve actually learned this from an exhaust shop. What you are actually looking for is the velocity of the exhaust flow. You want to balance it while having a little more velocity would be better. I’m not hating or saying you are wrong just adding to you statement. Very helpful tho thank you for the vid.
I'll say it, he's wrong. You don't need back pressure.
Advance your timing to 34-36 degrees, with the other 3 improvements you will see a big hp gain.
Thanks for the tip, that's a good one man!
I did this on my Trans Am, big increase. 😃
Total timing, not that much on the harmonic balancer. Maybe 2-3degs at the crank marking with the vacuum advance disconnected when setting timing. With that carb. Go 1 step smaller jets. Another thing , in the distributor. The mechanical advance springs and weights can be changed to move the power around in the RPM range to where you need it. Go from a 180deg thermostat to a 168deg. Just a few more cheep tricks to gain HP.
@@MustangGuru Very cool tip, thank you for the comment!!
Will this cause pre detonation (ouch) with that much advance?
When my engines get tired I just give them a new owner..
Bruh 😂
Yooo thx for sharing...I have a 87 Silverado the compression test passed with flying colors!!! The video was a TREMENDOUS HELP!! 👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾
You can usually add another 10 degrees of advance to the distributor..get rid of the old school fan and add a electric fan...
Paint some flames on the side. Flames=fast
Haha very true! Thanks for the comment!
A new Timing chain on an old Chevy can really pep things up as well and really get the valves timing opening and closing properly and it can feel like a brand new motor
My 1978 Chevy c-10 pickup truck has a 350 and it made a lot of diff
I always keep the maintenance and tune ups regular
Love your truck
Thank you for the tip man, that's a really good idea! While I'm in there replacing timing chain might as well throw a cam in there too! haha
No need to buy an aftermarket air cleaner. Just flip the stock air cleaner lid.
did that in the 70s
Old school is the best.
Is that true ?? Huh 🙊
that's the cheapest way use to do.that back in the 70's love the sound it made especially when it was a v8
Yeah but not particularly good for your engine
Flipping the air filter lid on a car/truck with a quadrajet makes a huge difference. We have tried it both ways many times on my friends 70 Monte Carlo and you can just tell by how much harder it throws you back in the seat, and by how the trans shifts at a higher RPM. Upgrading from points to an HEI distributor will not necessarily increase horsepower if your points system is in good working order, but it does get rid of some ignition system maintenance and it greatly simplifies the ignition system.
Definitely, upgrading to HEI is more so for throttle response, but that does increase performance. It's pretty noticeable if you're running a carbureted engine.
Samuel Rosenberg you are absolutely right about that. It will only increase power if your points are screwed up and it is running like garbage.
Samuel Rosenberg yep. It is definitely not something I enjoy doing. I’m not sure how Volvo does it but maintaining some of those points systems can be a real pain.
Yeah, Hot Rod tested about 10 different ignition systems and was surprised the stock points type was among the best HP producers... some of the electronics the worst...
Ty found this video very informative as i have recently bought a car and now learning :)
Awesome, glad I could help!
Manifold swap is in the category my do so many forget that one.
Best bang for buck
Yes you are so correct and can I add that if you're running regular try running super you will feel the difference your car will Love it ,also if you can new coil or coil packs, new E3 spark plugs, and if you can get rid of all the extra weight on the car especially all that extra plastic or metal trim that can't be seen around and under the car if it can come off get rid of it trust me Lest weight = Fast from Joey in Honolulu , Hawaii , Aloha ...
Xbox 55
every engine is nothing but an air pump, the more air that is pumped in the more power it makes, and getting the air out as quickly as possible is headers, no engine can run without compression, and the higher the compression the more power it produces, plane the heads and use Factory style head gaskets a single metal shim head gasket, high-lift and wide duration camshaft and bigger carb with aluminum high rise intake and you're making some serious horsepower
Samuel Rosenberg , camshaft is under $200, headers is under $200, intake is under $200, heads planed at a machine shop is under $200, and I didn't say anything was cheap, I'm not a UA-cam video, I just said if you wanted to make some serious horsepower and it might not be easy for you, but it's very easy for me because I know what I'm doing, and you didn't have to do all the things at once, first thing you should do is get your heads planed, this will raise compression giving you more horsepower, then when you can afford it, get headers, intake, camshaft, bigger carb, if you got a small block Chevrolet, I got the part number for the single shim head gaskets by Fel-Pro, and NO not the thick blue ones , and again I said if you want to make serious horsepower not just a little more horsepower, and by serious I mean small block 327 making 475 HP
Samuel Rosenberg , I've been building small block Chevys ever since 1979, but telling people and getting people to do it is two different things, two identical 350 Chevys one with 8:1 compression makes barely 150hp , the same Chevy 350 with 12:1 compression makes 375hp , and they both can have the same intake heads headers carb, high compression makes horsepower period , and if you can't afford high-compression Pistons, plane your heads at a machine shop, then get Factory Style single shim head gaskets, your horsepower will go up at least 5 horsepower p e r cylinder, 5 times 8 is 40 extra HP, then add all the other little extra goodies and you add about 25 HP per item headers 25hp, camshaft 25 HP, intake and carb 25 HP, and if your engine can handle it, a little nitrous ain't going to hurt
Samuel Rosenberg , do you not read what I wrote there, 1 engine had 8 to 1 compression and 1 engine had 12 to 1 compression, you skipped all of that and went right to the bottom of what I was talking about, I'm not talking about a little bit of horsepower, I said serious horsepower, do you know what the word serious means, if you're starting out with a 8 to 1 compression engine, just plain your heads, and you will raise compression up, if you got a 11 to 1 or 12 to 1 compression engine you can skip this part and go straight to headers carb intake and other high performance parts, high-lift cam, you got to actually know what you're doing before you start working on an engine to begin with, I'm not a doctor but I play one on TV, you're not going to help anybody, get some knowledge of auto mechanics, know how engine works before you start playing with it, you don't call a plumber when you got an electrical problem, let the auto mechanics work on the cars, people don't even know how to change their damn oil, letting on give it more horsepower, let someone improve it that actually knows what the hell they're doing, just because you watch drag racing on TV don't make you a drag racer, just because you watch a cooking show on TV don't make you a chef, seems like the only job you have is wanting to argue with someone, and you're not going to get a high performance engine by turning the air cleaner over
Samuel Rosenberg , I built small block 327 that make 475 horsepower, it has 12.5 to 1 compression, double hump heads, with 58cc combustion Chambers, Manley stainless steel valves, torker II Aluminum Intake, 1050 cfm Holley carb , full race cam with gear drive , full length hooker headers , MSD distributor and MSD multi spark box, melling high-volume oil pump, roller rockers, pistons and crank are forged, heavy duty 11 inch clutch, Lakewood blow proof bellhousing, m-21 Muncie 4-speed, 12-bolt posi track rear end with 4:11 gears, that's what I build, I do have a 71 Camaro LT1 Factory 360 HP that I added a 750 CFM Holley carb and headers that now makes 375 HP
Samuel Rosenberg , I don't have a 71 Camaro, I just have a 71 LT1 Camaro engine, I also vette engines
Back pressure is a myth
Made my gm
Midrise intake manifold 150.00
Long tube headers 140.00
465 cam swap plus timing chain and lifters 150.00
Easy 150+hp for about 440 bucks
Next for me is heads and a power stroke and changing the gear ratio
Heads est. 200
Stroke 400
Gears 200
Stroker kit 600*
I wanna know where you get this stuff for so cheap...
Profiling your plugs! That’ll give you horsepower.
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Backpressure no-no. Exhaust scavenging, yes
You are correct, thank you for the comment!
I learn that at Uncle Tony's. Thank you You Tube. I'am 57 and I 'm learning like a kid again. Love it.
Also for more horse power change your manual fan to electric fan
nice informative video..
simple yet made a lot of sense. no BS..
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you liked it!
My '84, 305 el camino Super Slow came with a 600cfm Edlebrock. I replaced it with quick fuel slayer, 450 cfm. It makes so much vacuum that the power valve won't open. I have the right one coming. But now my entire 3rd gear has great power, especially at low rpm, and under load. It was weak as hell, til it wound up. As soon as i can give it an off idle drink, Im sure first gear will be just as improved.
I bought the "Jegs"crate engine,,,installed Edelbrock hi rise manifold,,600 Holley,,,flame thrower distributor split fire plugs,,headers and a hot shot nos all this in my 56 chevy wagon
I'd love to see some video of that.
Hi!
Enginemasters did test backpresure, and they found that you dont need that if your camshaft is right.
Yeah back pressure is a long debated topic. Some people say it matters and others do not. Either way, with an engine like this that isn't putting out a ton of power it wouldn't matter much anyway I don't think.
Very true! There's always been a big debate on back pressure and if it matters or not. I still don't know for sure and I've done a lot of reading on it haha. Thank you for the comment!
Back pressure does matter on a stock engine..disconnect your exhaust from the exhaust manifold or header then drive it and get in to it..it will be loud but down on power...
@@stevemitchell2252 Retune your fuel/air
Keep the Ram horn style exhaust man. if you're lucky enuf to have one.
Center dumps : )
Thank god. I have a suburban with the same engine. Time to make a sleeper.
I had a 88 Chev Silverado extended cab with a long box and canopy full of tools. Put in Air Raid throttle body riser, shorty headers, large K&N air filter, and removed catalytic converter, and removed the air pump that pushes air into the exhaust. A very big truck was getting over 1000 km on one tank of fuel (approx 113 liters). Mostly highway and very conservative driving but awesome fuel economy.
that,d be app. 24 mpg-Canadian gallon (4.5 Lt.) or app. 21 mpg-US gallon (3.89 l Lt. ). acceptable to me ,probably a little more spunk as well. With all that weight probably better down hill ,ha.
@@cecilsabourin9462 Chev 350
If it's an engine from the 70s or 80s, remove the restrictive pollution controls like the vacuum line to the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and any vacuum controls which limit vacuum advance of the distributor. On the EGR value remove and plug the vacuum line to the EGR valve, so no inert exhaust gas is routed to the intake manifold air/fuel charge. No vacuum line to the EGR valve prevents exhaust gas recirculation and gains more horsepower. Restoring vacuum advance to the distributer allows correct spark timing through the RPM range and gains more horsepower.
that is an HEI best one chevy makes , install a electric fan gains 15 to +20 HP , 40 years experienced .
You are correct. This list isn't necessarily specific for this truck, but just stating that installing one of these will help out. I do have an electric fan actually, however it's not helping much since it's supplementary for the plow, and I still have the belt driven. I will definitely look into this more! Thank you for the tip!
@@MidwestGarage fans DYNO proven also the hotter the engine the more HP gain , lots of up grades to the HEI's coils up to 72 K and module improvements ,
Youre stock air cleaner is missing its hose that routes to the grill. Get a good filter and make sure nothing crawled up in that hose.
Thanks, my man. I'm buying a 1974 Olds Delta 88
THANK YOU SO MUCH. SIMPLE, BASIC AND CHEAP UPGRADES. GREAT VIDEO AND THANKS FOR SHARING!!!
1.6 rockers. 15 hp on a sbc . About 100$. Elgin is a good brand for the $
Summit 1.6's... about $63/16...
Make sure you don't overtighten the poly locks. They don't take much pressure to tighten down at all. If you overtighten them they will crack.
Give this guy a medal he killed it 🤔
Can we get more videos on adding hp to 96gmc’s🙏🏼
Great video getting an 88 accord dx 2.0L 98hp I wanted to increase that thank you
Thanks for the comment bud!
I did this to my 92 blazer and it's a huge difference awesome video brotha
Thanks man!
3 inch to muffler then 2/1 inch pipe for the rear is the best combo i run 3 inch flow masters with a race muffler kinda made my nova have a little more of a kick
I had 3 inch 454 exhaust on my 96 chevy with a 350 vortec it helped my engine alot better
With the air filter you can flip the top cover and make your open 360 intake for free. And yes get rid of the points and get a HEI distributor. Also put in a thermostat that opens at 190° instead of the 210° . If it is still stock take the intake off and remove the left bank restrictor plate from the head. Old gm and Ford have the restrictor plate on one or two cylinders. Another is up jet your carb. If it's a 650 or a 675 then put in main jets from a 700 or 750 carb and adjust the carb to run and idle properly. Headers do help. Long tubes will help with hp and mid to top end torque. Shorty tubes are for small hp gain and great low end torque.
We used to flip the stock air cleaner lid upside down cheaper than edlebrock... I ended up putting a edlebrock pro flow and it sounded mean... 70 chevy pickup laying dow rubber all the way to the tire shop...
You can put a gasser filter/cover on as well
Nice video. Simple but really clear about what u talking about
I'm running Edelbrock heads msd distributor avs 2 carb and flow master not sure on power but no problem getting up and go
Also change out the stock intake manifold with Edelbrock or weid intake manifold with a throttle body spacer it'll increase the horsepower and save you gas
Im using a wiend intake on a 350 I'm BIULDING. But how thick should the spacer be.?
On any lame ass compression vintage v-8, you can advance base timing quite a bit. Lock out half of your centrifugal advance. Loose the larger advance spring (you dont need two or to pay $30 for two light springs), add weight to your advance weights, 20% reduction crank pulley, and a 450 cfm quick fuel carb. You will think you have a 350, or hot 350, compared to what you had. Aside from the carb, all for no money.
A previous owner, on my '86 305, C20, removed the catalytic converter & all smog stuff. I see lots of hoses plugged up. He put an Edelbrock carb on it & a pair of glasspacks. It's legal in NJ, because it has Historic tags on it. ..The new thing in NJ is that anything 1995 & older is now exempt from inspection!
Very cool! Out here we don't have inspections or anything like that on vehicles, but if it's too loud or if there's a reason to look while you get pulled over, then you can get cited for no catalytic converter or no muffler, etc. I would love to remove all the smog stuff though, it's all so restrictive!
Great...
One more tip, cut the exesive leng of all the hoses.
You know who else couldn’t breathe
2 1/2" exhaust is usually about perfect! If were talking stock to mild engine, You honestly wouldn't need 3" until you got into a racing type setup or something with a big cams and high flowing heads and intake and honestly even then it could still be done with smaller then 3" lol Add some kind of forced induction then maybe you could justify needing a 3" exhaust lol
Nope 2 1/2 is to big for a stock 350
@@pops3554 To big 🤔...no, not really at all, a hair overkill possibly if we're talking bone stock 350. Most stock pipes are only 2 1/4" which can be a bit restricted especially with any kind of upgrades, it'll do i suppose, plenty people leave that size pipes all the time i guess but its just barely enough my opinion. 2 1/2" is a great size to run and leaves some wiggle room when upgrading things. Now 3" is to big 😆 you need a fully built 350 thats really wanting to breath alot to justify a 3" system my opinion
Single 2 1/2 SHOULD be for 350 or slightly modified 350 ....where a 2 1/2 is big block territory
@@pops3554 reread what you said
@@shrxft meant 2 1/4
Lol
Appreciate this... Good job thanks
What about changing out a 2-barrel intake and carb for a 4-barrel setup? My 68 Galaxie has a 390 with stock 2-barrel, cast intake, and autolite or Motorcraft carb ( I’m not a mechanic so I can’t tell what the carb is yet).
Dude you need to re due your home work on back pressure. Go watch engine masters and they will show you that you do not need back pressure. They have the dyno to prove it as well🤙
"not going to have enough back pressure" that's not how engines work!!!
Probably the least understood concept I know of. What people really mean is that the exhaust needs a certain amount of velocity, and going too big will reduce velocity - which in turns reduces scavenging.
That is true but most people I've talked don't realize it and when I try to explain it they get shitty because I said engines don't need back pressure lol some will never know
But straight piped gas v8's sound so good!
Yeah so straight pipe em. Back pressure is not a good thing at all
True! I forgot who is was, maybe motor trend, proved that a bigger exhaust (up to a point) increases your hp because the engine can breathe easier. Based on the video, they found that running a 3" exhaust on a sbc will take it within ~5 hp of the factory hp rating. You start to notice real big hp losses when you get around a 2" exhaust.
About to buy a 71 deville 472 thank you a lot I'm going to do just that to it
Engines don't need backpressure. They need correct pipe diameter for efficient scavenging, where a vacuum behind exhaust pulses helps pull out following exhaust pulses for cleaner air/fuel mix in following cycles. If exhaust velocity is too slow (caused by excessively large pipes) you won't get as much scavenging which means your engine won't run as good.
You are correct, thank you for the clarification! I misinformed and didn't notice that until the video was published, but you're right it's scavenging not back pressure.
for the old engines replace the timing chain they get wore out a new one will be night and day difference and not hard to do either,nobody thinks to do this,easy tips,tune up,cap and rotor
Definitely! And yes, first step is a simple tune up for sure. Thank you for the comment!
Awesome video boss
I have an 86 z28 so far a new tune up, an older distributor and a new distributor cap have made a 5 horsepower gain. The timing is gonna be next, same with the headers.
A fresh tune up will work wonders too. The best single improvement would to put in a new timing chain with an iron cam sprocket. The factory timing chains are worn and loose in just 10,000 miles.
I agree. Like I mentioned in the video a tune up will definitely help, these are some things to do after the fact. Thank you for the tip about the timing chains!
'71 - '80's engines used overly advanced or retarded cam timing that was done at the timing chain/sprockets... correcting that helps power and MPG...
Your right !!!
Thank you helpful
I was with you right up until you said an engine needed "back pressure". NO 4 stroke engine needs back pressure NONE NOTTA NO. Please understand the difference between back pressure and scavenging. Free up the exhaust as much as possible and eliminate any restrictions and use the correct size pipe for your setup.
I have a 79 Monte Carlo (GM/Chevy) I suppose all of those techniques you've listed are accurate? They will work on my engine?
the carboraitor would be a 600cfm holly 4bbl is that a good one for the 318
Yes...
If you want to run 3 in pipes you can but you need to put a 2 ft piece of 2.5 in restricted pipe where the cats should be on a modern engine if your running a sbc. If your BBC. Then you can go 3 in all the way no issues
Typically, rocker arms are 1.5 to 1 ratio. On your engine see if someone makes a 1.6 to 1 ratio rocker arm. the 1.6s will give a little more lift for more horsepower. Try Summit Racing. If you do that, after you remove the rocker covers, run the engine to make sure all the rockers operate the same and you don't have flattened cam lobes. If you do, then you need a new cam.
LMAO!!! Okay putz!
Exhaust is not back pressure. The engine in a pump. The exhaust headers 4 in one, creates flow from low pressure (hot air ) to high pressure (cold air). So, a 4 in one header , x pipe, h pipe uses hit gasses from combustion exhaust to cold / cooler air ,to cause flow or pump . If you look at exhaust pipe ,on a front engine vehicle, because of the length of travel in the exhaust pipe, you will see areas on the the exhaust pipe that has gotten hit that other sections. This where the cold air and hit air has combined and stoped moving. The X pipe ,H pipe is put into this area to continue the pumping if exhaust gasses out. So, have exhaust short, if possible, it not practical. The. Spray paint the exhaust on the side the us easiest to see. Drive around just long enough to reach operation temp. Then the section of pipe that burns off paint is were you in install a H pipe,or x pipe. The area in x,h pipe is a low pressure area. Or cooler. High pressure (hit air) is pulled to the low pressure area, this creates a continuation of savaging (pump the air out) . So, it is an effect,just like the weather, that causes air to move and because windy (flow). High to low moves air. These hot spot in exhaust ,is where the air has stoped moving. High over took cold, became equalized temp and stoped moving. You don't want that in exhaust sys, you want it to evacuate at high flow. So, what you want continus bubbles of high pressure/low pressure/ high pressure all the way through the exhaust sys, to the end exit. The more heat you keep inside the exhaust, the better the effort, hence header wraps,shield ect.. Shields and wraps are not just the reduse engine bay heat. I might not have said all this right, but I hope I conveyed the concept. Their many lables/names if something ,but doesn't represent the more complicated actions that are taking place. And everytime i see a homeless person with a dog,I ask" Are you hungry?" They reply yes." Then I say eat that dog" Stay thrusty my friends. They uses the dog to bully your concence, like religious hustlers do.
Sweet!
Installing 1.6:1 rockers (if it had 1.5 from factory) on the exhaust side in addition to good headers increases power quite a bit on the 70s and 80s SBC. Exhaust lobe profile on cams were terrible due to emission control. The 1.6 rocker opens exhaust valve more and increases duration a bit that allows more exhaust gas out of the combustion chamber. Addition of headers helps with flow even more.
For about 30 bucks for 8 new 1.6 exhaust rockers and a couple hours work you can pick up about 20HP.
It is not back pressure. It is vacuum scavaging. It is created by 4 in 1 and high pressure going to low pressure. It is vacuum flow. H an v pipe is used to continue scaving that falls off do to distance from the a from engine to the back of the vehicle. You spray paint dual exhaust. Where the flow slows ,the high heat will burn off the paint. That where in long pipes you put H or V pipe. This creates another low pressure area and continues the scavaging the rest of the way out long pipe. If you have had duals on for awhile, you will see a small area where the pipe is getting hotter than the rest of pipe. Pull H pipe there. Many time I here vehicle with blaa,blaa bad sound with dual exhaust. Put in H pipe in better flow and bad ass sound. You want the exhaust and heat to flow out. Not ball up mid way under vehicle exhaust pipe.
Good tips man, thx
Most engine will respond well to a head and cam upgrade. Cheap horsepower is a unicorn lol. Seriously a sbc with factory heads will really love a better head. You can get into solid after market heads for under 1k and of course a cam can be 100$ or so depending on what you want. A cam, intake, and carb will make a serious improvement, but add a good set of heads and you're in real solid shape. A 2.5" exhaust will support 500hp at least and probably more. However too big and you can hurt yourself. Not getting into the back pressure thing.
Haha, yes I got myself into the back pressure thing and regret that...but I definitely agree with you man.
Cheap hp. VORTEC HEADS! Take couple hrs & port match
.no .
9
Ok now I need tips on squeezing low end torque out of my 350 for better towing
....and pulling the floor mat out from under the accelerator.
What you said about back pressure is not true, was a tale started to promote the use of new emission systems that were better for the air.
Have you ever thought the professionals mechanics who built the truck stock have thought of thousands of ways to make it the best way it should be? Sometimes people do things thinking it helps but they suck hot air into their engine bay
Your right dude I have a 85 chevy Silverado pickup I put round air filter headers and short glass pack dule exhaust out the side cab I got 260 hourse power and 300 ft of tourck
Increase HP by getting rid of your fat chick for a slim chick!!!
remove the cooling fan and add a electric fan that add hp's too and less noise
Awesome video and good tips dude
Thank you for the comment!
with my truck when I start it up I have to push the gas which is normal but after it starts I have to keep pressing the gas for like 10 seconds until I go into drive or reverse. do you know how I can fix this?
I worked at Martin and one day I seen a mexic....ummm "migrant driver?" He bought 2 paint trays, gorilla glue and a few spray cans of Dupont car paint.... about an hour later I go out to smoke a cigarette and there he is with both paint trees flipped upside down glued to the hood of his car and spray painting over them to match the color so he made some awesome hood scoops that probably gained him a ton of power hahaha ( I mean it was resourceful I will give him that)
I worked at kmart....no clue why it changed to martin
Thank you for your simple easy to understand video
Thank you for the kind words!
Midwest Garage you're most welcome
New spark plugs helps to if u have old ones
You're definitely right. I didn't add that in there since it's part of the general tune up though. Thank you for the comment!
Midwest Garage yep no problem they say it’s noticeable if u get rid of your old ones
Your engine needs back pressure? Why?
you know how water shoots out the garden hose faster when you apply pressure from your thumb to the nozzle? It's the same principle. It forces the exhaust to shoot out faster. More flow = More efficiency / power
An engine doesn’t need back pressure, a dual 3” exhaust vs a 2 1/4” exhaust on a stock 350 won’t make much of a difference, now if you get into a higher compression engine with decent heads then a larger exhaust will help but as far as back pressure that’s an internet myth. If you take say a 79 Camaro with the stock smog exhaust and throw headers, x-pipe, cat delete, and some high flow mufflers you’ll make more power and if you throw a higher performance engine into that car the x-pipe (or h-pipe) will produce better numbers than a “true” dual setup because the crossover in the pipes creates a scavenging effect in the exhaust which aids in power production.
Air cleaner one can add like 10hp :O
Sean's Garage what is air Cléaner ?
@@marcialgarcia7026 I meant air filter lol
@samuel, Actually combustion starts at BTDC. And follows thru ATDC to allow a complete burn. Ideal combustion from best performance is when the AFR. Air,fuel ratio between 12.5:1 - 14.5:1
Most people (hotrodders ) from the old days more fuel , more fuel So they take a 600cfm carb and put on a 750cfm double pumper and lose HP.
Cold air intake is the only one of the 3 that gives the most for the least. For every 15 degrees farenheit over 70 degrees, you LOSE close to another 10% in engine horsepower.. So If your carb is sucking 195 deg under hood air you are losing close to 1/2 of the advertised HP. Go see what Smokey Yunick had to say about CAI. I did and it pays off in gas mileage too.
Thanks for the tip I didn't know that, I will definitely look into it! That's really interesting!
@@MidwestGarage In the 60's I devoured anything I could find by Smokey and the cold air thing was the easiest I could do in mt bacyard.
In 1973 I had a '68 4bbl 340 Formula S cuda 3:31 axle 727 Auto Tran. I cut a 4" hole in the plenum at the base of the windshield and took ambient air into the carb. 1973 . I let my B-in-Law run a grudge match against a H.S. friend who had a 1972 340 Challenger 6 Pack.(dont know the rear ratio or if auto). On a 93 deg Aug day my car beat the 6 pack by 1 1/2 car lengths. 13.95/105.1 in the qtr at Magnolia Oh. The same day there were 2 other 68 340's at Magnolia dialed in at 15.1 and 15.3. On the Pa turnpike where I could maintain 82mph between Breezewood and New Stanton I got an honest 21MPG - EVERY TIME I DROVE IT,
Back in 1966 I had done the same CAI thingie to my '62 4cyl Tempest (rated 140HP) and could eat alive the 155HP & 185HP Olds Cutlass/Buick Skylarks in my area. CAI WORKS!!!!!!! Big Time LOL
In 2008 I did CAI to a 62 Olds Cutlass conv antique. In 62 a big complaint was about poor gas mileage. (14-16 on the road) On a trip down I81 I got 24.2mpg on a 464mi trip (from Baltimore to Hagerstown to Bristol).
PS for gas mileage the minima in the specific fuel consumption curve is
between 15% and 17% above the torque peak. See Fundamentals of Internal Combustion Engines by Gill Ziurys & Smith as taught at the Naval Academy. 82mph was where the minima was for the cuda.
.I hope this helps. Check out other of Smokey's tricks and secrets!!
@@jackpoage5419 Reply #1
First off "a 60 deg day" isnt what your carb is sucking. It is sucking underhood air that is at "radiator temp" - 185-195deg. Hotter air has less oxygen per volume than cold air. Plain old high school chemistry & physics!! You did go to H.S.??
But you are saying you know more than SMOKEY YUNICK one of the great hot rodding legends of the 20th century? Im amazed we never heard of you before! Smokey is who said 10% more loss for every 15deg increase in the 1960's!!
Now, When you have mastered "Fundamentals of Internal Combustion Engines" as taught at the US Naval Academy (Gill, Ziurys, & Smith) and write a book like Smokey's that sells for more than $250 on racing do's/donts amd how to beat the NHRA rules.. Then you can begin to talk like an "expert". PS here's an ad for Smokeys book on ebay.
www.ebay.com/itm/Best-Damn-Garage-in-Town-The-World-According-to-Smokey-Yunick-3-Vol-Set-SB/153263940724?epid=30417325&hash=item23af3e2474:g:ojcAAOSwDlRb7zcf:sc:USPSPriority!21061!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0
@@jackpoage5419 Reply #2
Would you care to explain how a 275HP 68 4bbl cuda could take a 330HP 72 6Pk challenger so badly? Wasnt driver error, both drivers had been down the Magnolia strip hundreds of times..
Or maybe you'd care to talk about how my 68 could turn 13.95 when two other identical cudas were dialed at 15+???
Maybe you'd rather work on how a 140HP 4cyl Tempest could beat 185HP Olds cutlass and Buick Sktlark V8's.
@Samuel Rosenberg According to Gill Ziurys & Smith in the book I mentioned the SFC curve is 'virtually' the same for every internal combustion engine whether spark or compression ignition. It is my guess (tho they did not expound on why) it has to do with the peaks of wave fronts approaching the intake valves slightly after the troughs of the waves at the exhaust valves DURING the overlap period. More exhaust scavenging without drawing a larger intake charge (thats a guess). And that occurs over a broad minima of ~15 to 17% of.the RPM where the torque peaks. Doesnt matter the road speed.because whatever your overall consumption - it will be the lowest per/unit time in that range.
Find the torq peak for your engine. If you dont have a tach, using your rear ratio, work out what speed will be at the appropriate RPM.
For my barracuda it was 82mph. And when I had to slow down to the 55mph ordained limit my mileage fell off to less than 14.So much for saving a national resource in the 70s.
You know torq peaks where rhe wave fronts/wave troughs are at their appropriate valves simultaneously during overlap? Max out draws max in.
Thats why early flathead fords with high intake risers and 60's Chryslers with crossram intake manifolds were so successful. Tuned input is difficult because its hard to lengthen the distance from carbs to intake valves. LOL
I have a 95 chevy g20 van with everything stock on it and my exhaust to the muffler is 3in an I think 2 1/2 from the muffler out
There is no such thing as back pressure what you need is scavenging an h or x pipe will tremendously help scavenging
You're 100% right that's exactly what I was going to say
Yeah, don't worry about back pressure in the exhaust system if looking for power... go dual 2 1/2" or 3"... mandrel bent tubes that maintain inside diameter... not restrictive stock type kink bent tubes...
Thank you for your help I have a 1972 Ford F-250 with a 360 and I want a little bit more power so thank you I will do that
Thank you for the comment! Let me know how noticeable of a difference it makes!
460?
Carefull with that 360/390 Valve stems are small and the keepers on the valves will break and drop a valve. We used. To knurl the guides and have the heads worked to use the valves from a 454 Chevy to make them reliable.
@@MustangGuru good to know
Cold air not open air, with the open air it’s sucking all that heat right in reducing power if anything