The big question... Do you thoroughly test your garments with a mock-up like me? Or will now? Or lives too short and you just cut straight into that 'real' fabric??😀 If you want to learn more about fitting and using toiles as a tool of sewing, join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/ as I'd love to have you in class!
It's worth doing if I haven't worn that style before. Let's face it, we may love how the garment looks on the lovely tall model on the pattern, but not every style suits. If the mock up doesn't look good on me (I'm short, but large chested), I don't bother making it, I'll find another pattern to use my good fabric. Just one other way a mock-up can be useful, it depends on the project.
I started sewing (beyond buttons and hemming) in June of this year - between you and Bernadette Banner I started the right way and made mock ups from the start. Otherwise that 8 panel skirt that I made in cotton as a test for the planned silk skirt would have come up several sizes too big. I've not worked from patterns yet, but started out by trying to replace 3 of my favourite (but very simple) skirts. Who would measure the panels, and write all the measurements down, then 2 or 3 days later when the toile fabric arrived, start cutting out all the panels, adding 2 cm seam allowance as Ms Banner does - having completely forgotten that they'd already added the 2cm seam allowance when they wrote down the measurements. Thank goodness that was done on £2.99m poplin not the £11.99m cotton or the £15m silk that the final skirt was made from. But having made my mistakes on the poplin (and a couple of minor errors on the cotton), by the time I got to the silk last week, I made a beautiful skirt that fits so nicely - with added pockets. As I was honing my skills in preparation for the silk skirt, I even made another replacement skirt from a duvet cover - again, a toile was made first which enabled me to see where I wanted to make changes to improve the fit. Next skirt? I want to replace my red velvet skirt - but I'm contemplating a few replacement pyjamas tops first. Thank you for sharing your knowledge via these videos - I've discovered I'm not useless when it comes to sewing, after all.
I make a toile for most garments I make. Being petite pear shape with a slight sway back. No pattern will fit me right out of the package. By making a toile I can assess the fit and transfer those adjustments to my traced off pattern pieces. I then end up with nice fitting clothes and get complements every time I wear one of my handmade garments, even from strangers sometimes. It is a good feeling. You feel better and more confident wearing something that fits your body. So making a toile is a must in my sewing. :) I think everyone should incorporate it into their sewing with woven and knit fabrics.
I use a muslin. Muslin is our friend. Bedsheets, curtains, tablecloths are nice. I used to skip it but then I decided to get serious about sewing. My birthday present to myself this year was that I gave myself permission to spend the time and effort to learn to really sew. Muslin is my friend.
@@Evelyn__Wood I was so happy I didn't sew that first pair of pants with this fabric! This pair is full of mistakes in cutting and sewing but I can hide it with this shirt! I'm pleased with the shirt. The whole thing has a 1920s smoking pajamas vibe.
I usually try to go for a "wearable" mock-up. I use cheap fabric, but can be worn when finished. Most times, when I do a mock-up out of muslin, if the fit is good, that mock up usually becomes the lining in the real garment.
I hadn’t thought of using it as the lining. Mum would use a wearable fabric and so does my sister. I don’t sew that much and the last few I’ve done I went straight to the real fabric 😁. Could’ve used a mock up for one of the dresses!
This is how my grandma sewed. She came from a pretty poor background where fabric couldn't really be wasted on a mock up that wouldn't be worn, so if she did sew a mock up for an outfit it was either wearable in itself or formed part of the lining of the finished garment.
I get that, it really is a profound waste of time if you're handsewing. If you have a sewing machine it's not as painful or slow, but as someone who is currently a handsewer this is NOT happening lol
When I was younger and first dabbling in sewing I just wanted to rush to finish. No mockups. Very little care for finishing seams or pressing. It made sewing unpleasant because while I was proud to finish, I didnt actually enjoy wearing the clothing because of fit issues. I only sewed a few projects before I stopped all together. I took about 10 years without sewing anything thinking it "just wasnt for me." and now that I'm learning again I find I really treasure taking every extra step I can to make everything just right. Mockups are no exception. Theres just something so zen and wonderful about pushing myself to the fullest for each creation. If I'm making something to wear I want it to be made as best as possible. Otherwise I might as well buy something off the rack that doesn't fit well to begin with. Your videos have really gotten across attention to detail and brought about this change in approach. 🥰
Its crazy how little things like pressing and under stitching make all the difference in how a garment looks. Using a mockup to help with fitting issues and even sewing practice make all the difference!
My process is to make three versions. First is from a cheap calico where test the fit and the new techniques. The second is the first finished version. It is made from cheap / discounted fabric that I wouldn't cry a river over if something goes wrong. By finishing it with all the interfacings, linings etc I get a garment that I can actually wear. Usually there are mistakes that I have made so I designate it as home / garden / getting messing clothes. The third is the one that I will wear in public and might have been made from nicer fabric. By doing this I can have nice-ish clothes to wear at home and had practice.
You've convinced me and I'm so glad! Just imagine having ADHD and trying to make a toile. Oh the tedium! But, just imagine when your pattern turns out awesome bc you took the time to make a toile and work out all the issues before using your good fabric. Oh, the joy! Totally worth it. x
I find Morgan Donner's mock up process inspiring. She isn't rushing herself at all, she respects the process in its entirety! I remember when she was making her first corset she went through at least 3 functional patterns to get it absolutely perfect. Very cool
I compare it to making that first pancake....its a little messy and needs tweeking but the second one is spot on! Thanks Evelyn this was really helpful !
What do you do with the mockups after you’re done with your project? I feel a little guilty taking something that could be used as bedding to make a garment that I can’t donate afterwards.
I watch many couture videos from french fashion houses and even the pros do a mock up before the actual product is done. Watching the hour long video on the infamous Dior Red Coat shows us why mock ups are important.
@@Evelyn__Wood Everyone should watch that Dior one on that red coat! Lot of work! Hand stitching and layers of tulle ...or netting...you realize why the finished product is high end!
I make a garment at least once using old sheets before I use my good fabric. I made a dress 3 times because it was my first time grading up a pattern and made notes along the way. Highly recommended
Me watching this video while I unpick my mockup for a coat so I can easily trace the modified pattern from it... I always make a toile for fitted garnement. I didn't when I made a cape or an elasticated circle skirt.
Coming out of the teddy bear making world, I was already in the mindset to make mockups on things that have even the smallest chance of not fitting on the first go. When you're cutting into expensive faux fur that you will never be able to get more of, you make as many mockups as it takes.
I learned early on in my sewing journey (all of a mere 2 1/2 years ago) that my time and energy is too valuable NOT to make a mock-up! On my first ever garment project (pajama pants with piping and pockets), I made a mock-up, in less expensive flannel. Am I ever so glad I did! It made the whole process calmer, because I wasn't at all worried about making any mistakes or ruining the fabric...because it's just practice. I felt free to make, and learn from, mistakes; I felt okay (time lost, but not money; and experience gained) when one of pants I made didn't fit it's recipient AT ALL; I felt confident when I started on my final/fashion fabric. That first experience has convinced me to always make a mock-up whenever I try a new pattern or technique. Thanks for this video. It's reassuring to learn that others think it's a worthwhile investment of time and energy, too.
Back when I was a more average size, I didn't make mock ups unless I was significantly altering a pattern. These days I am not an average size and despise ill fitting garments, so I always make mock ups. I'll usually try and make a wearable garment from the toile, because even if it's secondhand fabric, I want to get as much use out of it as possible. I garden in trousers made from curtains and a shirt made from bed sheets.
I make toiles and have for a while, but now I'm working smarter with what Evelyn has taught me at Vintage Sewing school. I know which steps to take to make it fit my curves better. And a toile allows for me to see a better order of operation.
You've sold me, Evelyn. As a carpenter I TRY to live by the code of measuring twice, cutting once, especially with other people's lumber, and at today's prices. This is one of the many parallels that trade shares with garment making. I say try, because I'm the kind of person who always has several projects on the go and is a poor judge of how long they will take (ADHD) and usually ends up rushing them at some point to keep up with the unrealistic schedule that I have set for myself. The key, I have learned, is to not overload my schedule and limit my expectations on any given day, as well as allowing for interruptions and unexpected delays. I also recommend not telling anyone when you plan on finishing a project, because that can cause you to rush its completion just to save face. In woodworking I have learned a valuable philosophy that "nature will reveal itself". In other words, the wood will tell you how it needs to be cut, or carved, or finished, as no two pieces are ever the same. The same goes for fabric, or cooking, or anything you make. The ingredients themselves will guide your approach if you will only just let them. Alter the garment, recipe, painting, or experiment as needed for your purposes. Practice, and attention to materials, make perfect. This is where, as you have quite rightly pointed out, where patience comes in. ( Note to self - make a plaque for the workshop that mentions patience - project #5219 ). Maybe writing the word "patience" all over my toile bedsheets with a big marker would help. It's worth a shot!
I tend to only like to make things once, and fear that if something is especially difficult I won’t want to do it again for a wearable garment 😬 thank you for this video!
❤ You are not alone! I think going in with the mindset that it is a practice, just a test of the real thing only. It takes the pressure off feeling like you've made 2 and turns the focus to the process of making 😊
Currently working on my first garment, from... an old bedsheet from the thriftstore! No mockup, it's just a square shift so it really didn't need one ;)
I did a mock-up for the "Haori" (japanese coat) that I made from an existing one (so no pattern I had to make it), and finally I ended up using the mock-up as lining for the actual coat, helped me a lot. And now I am making a kind of chemise, and luckily I am actually doing the mock-up right now because I am a beginner and I made plenty of mistakes, also it is a bit big, I am currently trying to figure out how to fix it and also fix the pattern. As you proposed for beginners I am doing it like a finished garment to work everything out. Thank you for your vidéos they help me a lot!
I'm training myself out of the impulse to just get straight into it with commercial patterns. When I'm drafting my own then I am more excited about the project and doing it right, I think I'm more interested in the whole process. I'm really trying to focus on enjoying the whole process of sewing, not just the end result. I started to do a lot more hand sewing in genersl, particularly running stitch on early mock-ups. It's actually made a huge difference! I love the problem solving and accomplishment when it's all nutted out.
As a person who makes my own pattern, a mock up (or several) is a MUST. My self-made pattern never fits unless I make at least one mock up. Usually takes 4 though.
Most of the time I do make a muslin. I know from bitter experience when I was a very young sewer. Spending a great deal of time doing your best, most precise work on a garment you then cannot wear is heartbreaking.
Have sewn for years, but recently have been drafting my own and the mockup is a great idea. Don't mind doing it because I can work out the kinks. I use old sheets. And also, my zipper goes all the way to the top. :) Sorry, a little sewing humor.
I was working on a very basic, small bag and was planning on making alterations to the pattern. My changes were themselves so small and the pattern so simple I figured I could go right to cutting into my final fabric. But before I did I remembered your video about testing and realized just in case I should do a mockup with fabric out of my scrap pile. Good thing I did since I got my length and width measurements turned around in my calculations! When I did it again on the final fabric the measurements were just right. So yes, even on weetiny beginner projects I think: what would Evelyn say I should do? :D
I have been a staunch ignorer of toiles for 50 years but you have changed my mind. I never realized that a toile doesn't have to be finished since I never paid attention to details about something I refused to do. Now, I am having to make myself an entire new wardrobe after not sewing garments for myself for ages, and just flat out wasting a whole lot of fabric. I can't wait to start my next project now!! ........ Oh and "Good Golly Gosh!!" :D I love it :)
Good Golly Gosh was an expression we used at school all the time and I still use it now many years later! I have a smile to myself when I hear my grown up children using it.
I firmly believe in a mock-up, especially if it is a new, difficult pattern or expensive fabric. I made a bridesmaid dress for my daughter and, for various reasons - change of mind/change of weight - we had to change the mock-up 3 times before we were both happy. I used a similar but cheaper fabric and, afterwards, donated the mock-up to a seamstress that is not financially well off, to complete and sell in her community.
I found out about mock-ups by dumb luck. I'm a novice sewer and I found myself needing to make a purse for myself. It had to be very specific because I use a power chair or wheelchair. I keep the purse on the arm of the chair when I go out. Long story short, I had to make own. Since this was something quite a bit over my head, I decided to make a very cheap version. Evelyn, I have found that mock-ups are the way to go! Thanks for your video today. It was very helpful. I didn't know to use the same fabric as my project. I also didn't know that designers make them as well.
I don't do toiles if I'm working with my trusty base patterns. But if I have to do too many changes, I make one. For example, I needed to make my base pattern bigger for my winter coat. So I did a toile to figure out some kinks, which worked. Sadly, my toile fabric was too different from my coat fabric. So in the end, I still needed to do minor changes in the princess seam and the side seams. But it was easy to handle
@@Evelyn__Wood well, I ended up sewing the bugger all by hand. 6weeks daily piqueing and backstiching and such, because my different wool layers wouldn't behave by machine. (Btw, still not done :D ) so, the little bit of time for the toile was well worth it! As much as I enjoy the process of all the handsewing, I would not appreciate doing seams over and over.
@@reginafetty6374 I must say, I enjoyed the process of the hand sewing, trying to enjoy the process, like knitting. I learned a lot, and love the amount of control hand sewing gives me. I usually just do some research for things I have never done, and then just go for it and learn through the process. A lot of things I just try and then when I see the effect it has on the garment, I go "ooooh, that's why!" I really love that! Atm my coat is on a break. (Just need to finish the lamb fur collar and sew the lining), but it started to stress me a bit. So I'll give it a week or two, until I can go back at it with joy :) Started knitting again in the meantime, because my hands got so used to movement :D If you want to try handsewing with some finnicky fabrics, I would just try it! Look at some videos, use a thimble! And good needle and thread!, do some try runs on easy fabrics and the finnicky ones, and then just go for it. Handsewing is learned mostly by just doing it, but it gets so much easier so fast.
I haven't done any garment sewing in over 30 years. I learned basic sewing skills in high school, and not much about fitting. The last time I made a dress that didn't fit when it seemed I had all of my measurements correct, I gave the dress away, and only sewed to mend items and garments. I now can see the usefulness of a muslin, so will probably do this if I ever sew a garment again. I need to learn more about fitting before that even.
I have always had trouble with patterns not fitting me. I can do coats and loose fitting things but anything form fitting-forget it. I recently found a pattern for a 70s jumper I really wanted to try. I ended up finding 4yds of ugly fabric at the thrift store for $2. I bought that and just did a toile. So glad I did! I have a long torso so it was a disaster. Now I get to figure out how to alter the pattern-which is how I just found your channel! Thank you for all your knowledge!
I've learned that making a toile is necessary if I actually want to like the finished garment. Just yesterday I finished the toile for a shirt dress and wow it was a learning experience. Even before cutting pieces for the toile I had made what are becoming my standard set of alterations. Square shoulders, narrow back, FBA was handled by the pattern. Looking at the pieces I decided to skip my usual short waist adjustment. I cut everything and adjusted as I went. I ended up drafting new sleeves to lower the sleeve cap. Moved the front bust dart around. And sewed a collar with a band for the first time ever (it was tricky). After trying on the dress, I realized that short waist adjustment I skipped really needed to be done. I didn't realize this until the weight of the skirt was attached to the bodice. Also that bust dart I had moved need to move back to it's original position. And the horizontal bust dart needs to move up. If I had skipped the toile the dress would have been a big disappointment. This afternoon I made changes to the pattern and will start on the wearable garment this week. I have much more confidence that the dress will turn out to be a piece I really love.
I’m fortunate to Volunteer in a Thrift shop, so I rummage through the Remnant fabric box as well as the zipper box. I’m beginning my first skirt and thank goodness I am doing.tge mock up as J would have completely ruined a beautiful Jacquard fabric. I write down in an exercise book the errors along the way and watch countless tutorials on how best to tackle things like fabric that frays so badly. I’m keeping old tablecloths, bedsheets, and oddments to learn and master my new hobby which I’m really enjoying.
There, at 8:15, you said what I needed to hear. Making a muslin Is part of the process. I need to learn the steps of the entire process, not just the steps in the pattern instructions. I have some of the skills and knowledge already, adding the process framework will help very much. Thank you.
😄 Right!! As soon as you want to start making adjustments to patterns to fit you right, you must make a toile! It has been wonderful to watch you make leaps and bounds in your sewing! ❤
Many years ago I set out to make a shirt. There were so much information on the pattern or lack of that I gave up. I started last year's sewing season with making garments. Patterns still had lots of information and the lack of. But I could not be intimidated when I came to cutting out the garment because I have already done the research, made my notes so it wasn't the first time in making my project. Takes longer but well worth it.
This makes so much sense!! I have been thinking of making my husband a shirt with nicer fabric, but I’ve never made one for him before and never thought of doing something like this. I’m still pretty new.
I, all of a sudden, kept seeing “how to make muslins” on my Pinterest feed. Then you made a video about it. The universe is BEGGING me to add this step in my sewing 😂
To be honest I don't even bother sometimes, depending on the garment. When I do, I tend to use a cheap, but cute fabric and if it looks good, it ends up in my wardrobe as well.
Thank you for this! I've been wanting to improve my garment sewing for a while and I've made a handful of things but every single time the first one is crap and I'm so frustrated. I think making a mock-up will develop my confidence faster than screwing up the real fabric over and over. Thank you again!
I love making toiles for my garments and every single time I haven't, I regretted it bitterly. Most times, I even make toiles for bags and accessories or to test techniques out (like welt pockets). Usually, to make the task more fun, I make them "wear mock-ups". You also made a good point about picking similar fabric. I once fitted a mock-up exactly to my taste and got really frustrated when the final fabric (which had a slight stretch to it) messed it all up!
Hello, Kimberly Here, watching from McDonough, Georgia. I've just found your channel. Haven't started my sewing journey but love all of your tips. I will definitely, always do a mock-up. Also, thank you for the 14 things you wish you New as a beginner. Noted. I will join your new sewing community!
To be honest I didn’t really know what a mock up was before watching your videos. As I only made a few garments as a child and the pattern of course never mentions them, it just wasn’t something I was aware of. It absolutely makes sense though. You wouldn’t make a fancy dinner without trying the recipes first, would you? Neither would you want to jump into a garment that took a lot of time and work without being sure that it will look how you want or testing out any difficult steps. I plan to join you in vintage sewing school as soon as my children and finances make it possible!
I've only ever had to make two fitted garments in my life for myself - I prefer a more relaxed/looser style which gives more ease/moving room. I did make a mock-up, but mainly because I felt my teacher measured me too tightly - I was very skinny up until my mid-thirties, yet she was causing my relatively flat boobs to muffin-top over the tape measure. In answer to my query she said the bodice is tightly fitted with boning in it so you had to measure likewise. I followed her measured instructions, made a calico mock-up of the bodice and literally started to split the seams in trying to do up the zipper - not to mention that I couldn't breathe properly throughout this procedure. It was no big deal, though, because I'd bought a multi-sized pattern and hadn't wasted my fabric. I think she measured everyone too tight for the express purpose of going through the mock-up. You can take it in much easier than let it out.
I think some sewing teachers have a lot to answer for. They probably put a lot of students off sewing for good with their bad advice. I was always told off at school for not doing what the teacher said. If I had my garment would not have fitted. Luckily I had a mother who sewed professionally so she put me on the correct path but so many of the other students have never sewn again.
@@lunasmum6869 I was one of those - put off sewing pretty much for good, having been led to believe that I was useless and incapable of sewing on more than a button. Imagine my surprise when, having bought a cheap machine to make masks with in June, that I found I was capable of making decent length cotton waist slips and realising if I could make them I could make simple skirts. And having made my toile and been able to get something that resembled a fit (even if it was way too big because of a measuring error), I then went on to make the skirt again using a decent weight cotton and having done a few more projects in between, I made myself a silk skirt last week. And it's not awful, and I'm going to get so much pleasure from wearing it. Part of me is annoyed that a poor teacher led me to waste so much time thinking I couldn't sew - the rest of me is just making up for lost time. Next project is a quilted case for my left-handed fabric shears before I consider a 'sew together' bag for either sewing or spinning supplies.
I am too impatient to make a toile but most of my dresses have a lining that are basically a copy of the dress so if that looks good I'm brave enough to go ahead. Plus I find my first attempt is actually the better one because I've concentrated so hard and tried to be super accurate. On the second round I tend to get overconfident and/or start trying to take short cuts. PS I would love a video on the units to focus when making a garment- sleeves, collars, bodice, skirts etc and the order they should be done in. Thanks for the video 🙂
I am going to do a toile for the first time on my next garment after my first ever shirt could use a few adjustments😉. I am new to sewing and am binge watching your channel. I love it.
I am sewing my first pair of jeans, because it is almost impossible for me to find a pair that looks good and is comfortable.There were quite a few changes I needed to make to the pattern and because I don't want to ruin my denim, I'll take the time to sew a muslin. After I get the fit right, it will be a lot easier and quicker to whip up more jeans. Well worth the effort!
Mock-ups seem to be quite popular Evelyn ! Its 10 years now since I last made clothes. I never had time to do a toile of any kind, guess I was lucky things turned out ok. Now I am more into altering things I bought. I still love the theory of it all, maybe one day... thanks for sharing.
This past year I have been making a lot of vintage dresses using patterns from the 30-40's so I wanted to see how well they fit. So I made some mock ups with fabric that I liked, but wasn't my "special" fabric. I do love using vintage floral sheets. Only one of my mock-ups didn't work, the rest I finished up. The one that didn't work I used a wool rayon that was covered in holes. I managed to squeeze the pattern in between the holes. If it didn't work then no great loss. Well I realized that I needed a really flowy fabric for the pattern, the mock up didn't have enough drape. I ended up using a vintage Hawaiian rayon that turned out lovely.
This is great! Thank you. When I started sewing during lockdown this year, I decided that as I wasn't going anywhere fast I would add the mock-ups to my new routine. I have saved so much money through doing them! Some patterns I just ended up not liking on my body, others needed loads of adjustments, and some I have mashed up with others to get the perfect look for me, not anyone else. As a new sewer, I cannot advocate this part of the process enough. Also, this is slow fashion, not fast fashion, so take the time and enjoy it.
What helpful advice! Bed sheets are fantastic things to thrift and put to use, especially since these old houseware textiles so often find no other use second hand.
I've been making a toile of a tunic pattern based on an old one that's soon to be recycled. I very nearly gave up, but your video's revived my belief that the time I've been spending on this preparation is well worth it before using my beautiful batik fabric. Thank-you, once again.
Such a lively and engaging video! I appreciate the message to enjoy every part of the process and appreciate all the steps to completion of the project; as they say "It's the journey not the destination" (well we are always rushing to finish so we can start the next super-cute project!).
I remember our sewing instructors in high school and college talking about a muslin, but we never made one. I do remember discussion about the names toile and mock-up, but the term used in Oklahoma where I grew up and went to college was muslin. I just purchased a pattern from eBay that I want to make that looks like a muslin would be helpful but think I can manage with just careful measuring. Vogue 1215, a tunic that is very loose fitting, but I would perhaps like it to fit a bit more closer on the shoulder, so not sure if I’ll try a muslin or not. It has beautiful tucks! I read through it yesterday, and there’s not a single step I have not done in the past, but it has been over 50 years since I made bound buttonholes! Can hardly wait to start! Thanks so much for an informative video!
I do a toile for every new pattern, especially the bodice. I learnt my lesson way too many times and over time just became more particular with my fit. In my sewing group its not unusual to make multiple toiles, we don't say that we do it but we do. 😉
Hi Evelyn I'm a self taught sewer and pattern-maker... I'm new to your videos and I appreciate your humility in combination with your advanced skill. I believe you have made sewing so much more approachable by reassuring us that it's normal to be confused, all while giving us overachievers confidence that our time is well spent when learning from you. At all skill levels, you are an inspiration to enjoy the craft even more. I am stubborn with not wanting to sew something in muslin first because the muslin fabric itself has such a different stretch and texture than my final fabric. I do not use pre-made patterns though. I think I bought a vogue one right off the bat and decided to just draft my own instead based on guesswork and symmetry. In my area I can get a nice discounted designer fabric for $10-$15 a yard but I would still be spending $8-$10 a yard for the muslin so I prefer to do a mock-up in the final fabrics, which are often stretchy or fluffy when I design stuffed animals for my kids. I wonder if I should be using an interfacing for knits to help them keep their shape but I don't know enough about interfacing. Anyway, thank you for all that you do. Your style is refreshing in today's world of sweatpants and hoodies. :)
often times it is simply an annoying but necessary step to make the best out of the pattern and fabric you got. Especially is you are working with a new pattern or your own pattern or an expensive fabric for the project it is SO worth it
I'm a newbie but I just did my first mockup for my first corset - and it was definitely so valuable to practice using the machine, adjusting the fit and even adding notes to the instructions that I think will make the final project easier. (Basting at one point would be invaluable, so I made a note.) I think I am now sold on mockups even though at first I thought like we all do - why do I want to do it twice??
I have been sewing for years but have recently become interested in the vintage dresses and wanted a corset to smooth out my figure in order to wear these dresses. I've made a toile of my chosen corset pattern and it fitted!! I usually have to make loads of alterations to dress patterns before I can sew them for real. I'm hesitating to cut into that expensive coutil though! I know it will fit so what am I hesitating for? I used to think why would i want to make something twice but learned the hard way with a lovely skirt which did not fit. When I was a girl I made things from patterns and they always fitted but, as the years take their toll, a toile is a must, it saves hours of unstitching and re sewing.
When I think back to the early 90s, when I was sewing US Civil War uniforms from very expensive hand-dyed kersey wool, I was SO dumb! At least with the trousers, I used less expensive material, but I lucked out with first time success on the jackets (although a lot of unpicking was involved.) Now I make a mock-up and work out the kinks before I cut into that Harris tweed. ,
I usually sew for grandchildren but recently I "whipped up" a skirt for myself very quickly. I am always in a hurry and sewing to a deadline so I cut out the fabric for 2 skirts. I loved the fabric and was just devastated that it was far TOO SMALL for me! I couldn't believe it! When I looked at the measurements in disbelief I was actually 2 sizes larger than the pattern size I had bought (the size that fits me off the rack in dress shops). It turned out beautifully and I gave it to an extended family member :-( I now have the cut fabric for the second skirt looking at me (different pattern- but - you guessed it, the measurements say it is far too small. if only I hadn't rushed and cut the fabric without checking the measurements. I am going to make a mock up with a smaller seam allowance and see if I can add fabric in a contrasting colour to save the skirt if need be. I have learnt a valuable lesson. wish me luck!
Oh my god... sewing pattern sizes are in a completely different reality than the rest of the world. It totally explains why models basically have to have anorexia if they want to be models. I was asking my friends the other day "If my dress size, which is 6 in plain english, is *18* in sewing pattern, then what the hell does an adult 6 in sewing patterns look like? Skin and bones?"
You’ve talked about tissue fitting before but i dont do the tissue bc im extremely heavy-handed AND clumsy and often don’t know my own strength so i copy my tissue patterns on the non-woven interfacing off the bolt bc it wont tear as easily on me, i use this instead of tissue fitting, then i use the mock-up to test how well the fabric i want to use will work using a less-costly fabric with same type (either woven or knit), similar stretch (where applicable), similar weight and similar drape. I then finish it into a bonus garment before making the pattern in the “good” fabric lol i dont sew/baste my interfacing-/tissue-fitting bc i like to keep it as a good quality pattern for future makes lol some people use heavyweight paper or even dressmaker’s “manilla” or whatever but the interfacing has a more flexible feel and paper will tear easier and when you fold it eventually will tear on fold whereas you just iron out the folds on the interfacing pattern
I made a toile of a pair of jeans. I had some lighter weight denim on hand that I used as my toile. It ended up being the actual pair that I ware. I love 'em! The "real" fabric I was going to use would have been a disaster. It was way way way too heavy. SO, I'm now making my mom a jean jacket out of that too heavy denim. It's working out so much better for that then jeans. YES, the toile is totally worth it.
I have been making them. Helps me practice as well as fit better. I got 10 yards of muslin material at Mood for about $10. I always make sure I have some fabric around to make one.
I have been sewing for a very long time - so now I only do a toile if it is a fitted garment, a brand new pattern style, or a new person I am sewing for - OR if it is a really important garment. but they do help! they can make all the difference.
Yes, you do get to know after a while what adjustments you are likely to need. I know the bust dart is always too high for me and the neck to waist is always too short, so I tackle that first before the toile. It saves a lot of time and, in a lot of cases, that is enough and a toile isn't needed. Tracing patterns onto Swedish Tracing paper helps as that can be sewn up to ensure it all fits. Cheaper than buying fabric for the toile.
Haven’t wondered into clothing making in a serious way yet but considering how many people I watch do mockups and drapping I’ve ended up wandering down that road and experimenting with non-clothing things. Currently on my second mockup of an (eventually woollen) lunchbox in a design I like but has these wing flap openings that I needed to figure out how to adjust to my custom measurements so that took way longer than expected but I think I finally figured out how the ratios work now. Also I was mentally cursing at that bit about doing things zippers and all for beginners because I’d done zippers before but not a ‘hidden’ (regular) zipper before. So you did inspire me to check I could actually do it on my mockup which also made me realise that ‘yes the zipper really does need to be sewn first thing (at least for my adapted version)’ which is good to know. Also enjoyed your video in general so thanks for that!
I consider myself an advanced beginner, I was trying to find content to get to the next level, your videos are great, thanks a lot for your content and the joy with which you communicate all of this. I’m really glad I found your channel!
I am about to start a new project and I remembered this video and came back to it. I'm going to make a mock up for the first time-- this dress pattern is more fitted than anything I've previously made, and also I am challenging myself to take the time and care that the garment deserves. Thank you for this!
Only yesterday I spent some time making a mock-up. It was a very simple garment, but I'm still very much of a beginner so I'm determined to test even something as trivial as a raglan t-shirt, especially that working with knits scares me to bits. The mock-up turned out so well that I will be actually using it as a garment, more specifically a PJ top. So I guess what I'm trying to say: yes, making a mock-up means making the same garment twice. BUT it may also mean that you will end up with two garments that you can use! Bonus horror story: certain YTer recently made herself a dress, did not bother to make a mock-up, misread the sizing chart and ended up with a garment made of an absolutely gorgeous fabric she got as a souvenir from some exotic country, a dress that was made well, finished properly on all accounts and *two sizes too big*. Nice fabric is precious. Make a mock-up.
With new patterns I will make one, often it is just part of the outfit. I made a lapel mockup once that was just part of the body and the lapel (not the rest of the waistcoat)
I recently started sewing again and knew after gaining some weight more so in the chest area I would need to make adjustments I made my first muslin which turned into 3 to get the fitting right but was worth all the effort for the wonderful fit I achieved 😁 Thank you Evelyn for the wonderful, informative video 👍🏼
2:26 lol i get any mock-up fabrics heavier-weight than “muslin” from the remnant bins and clearance bins… i make sure its got a pattern or color i like bc I usually finish the mock-up and have a bonus garment as a result lol anything muslin-weight (or lightweight “knit”) i use pre-owned bedsheets from friends and family (ahem, FREE) or the flat-sheets from my own sheets bc i never use those on my bed and i do this no matter what im doing: garment or non-garment sewing, crocheting (i use similar but cheaper yarn to make a test-project before using my good yarn), etc
Certain projects I don’t bother with a mock up, but most get at least a quick stitch together just for sizing/fit purposes. There have been plenty of times when I did a mock up just because I wanted to make sure I could actually follow the directions, and a few times I’ve gotten to the end of the directions and decided they should be done in a different order (I’m looking at you “zipper insertion after the crotch seam is sewn” and “hem sleeve then sew seam”)
Making a mockup not only saved my fashion fabric, but also allowed me to learn to make a full bust adjustment and change arm hole size etc. Was it a bit more work? Maybe, but I see it as a learning tool. I will always use a mockup now. Especially for new patterns.
As an analogy, no knitter would dare make a new garment without making a gauge swatch to assess if they are knitting at the correct tension for the garment, practice any special stitches, and make sure the material they are using will work with the project. Sometimes it takes several times making the swatch, washing and blocking it, to get the fabric at the correct size so that the garment will work up correctly and fit properly. It takes time, but better that than working for weeks on a garment that doesn’t fit. I’m just beginning my sewing journey, I foresee many mock ups in my future.
I only recently had made my very first mockup due to altering the pattern I was working quite significantly (adding a good 30-40cm of length) and I wanted to be sure that it would turn out the way I envisioned it before starting cuttin into my "real" fabric. A good 90% of the projects I had done previously consisted mostly out of straight seams (skirts) so I didn't bother making a mockup for those ^^
I'm going to try this for the first time. I'm going to convert a tank top pattern to a dress. I want the dress to be really loose. I also want to rais the neckline a little.
This sound like the prefect opportunity for your fist toile! It's like insurance that the real thing will turn out good! ❤ Let me know how it goes for you!
You mentioned that the mock-up fabric should be "like for like". The question that's been on my mind lately has been, what is the best fabric to use for a toile when your finished garment is to be made out of a knit fabric? Is there a go to knit fabric that is generally cheaper that will work for mock-ups or when buying the finished project fabric do you check the sale section at the same time for a similar weight and stretch knit to make the toile? Or... is knit so forgiving (or perhaps even too forgiving) that it is better to do the mock-up with a non-stretch fabric to begin with and when it comes to your actual garment build in negative ease to account for the stretch and just keep test fitting throughout the process?
Great question Nicole! You had the right idea, you would want to find a toile fabric that has a similar stretch amount first, and similar weight second. The amount of stretch is super important as it fits entirely differernt with different stretch! 😊
Heck yeah! With a 32F bra size, there's always complicated fitting and re-thinking to be done. I'm trying to create a basic bodice sloper, on my zillionth remake now, nearly there. Also, as time goes on I find myself more interested in investment sewing, real workhorse items, and you can't rush those. At least three toiles will happen - hopefully the final one in a fabric I could actually wear. Then onto the expensive fabric. I'm studying much more couture and true bespoke tailoring, which seems to involve a great deal of finicky slow-sewing. And I find that kind of zen.
The big question... Do you thoroughly test your garments with a mock-up like me? Or will now? Or lives too short and you just cut straight into that 'real' fabric??😀
If you want to learn more about fitting and using toiles as a tool of sewing, join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/ as I'd love to have you in class!
FABULOUS!!!
It's worth doing if I haven't worn that style before. Let's face it, we may love how the garment looks on the lovely tall model on the pattern, but not every style suits.
If the mock up doesn't look good on me (I'm short, but large chested), I don't bother making it, I'll find another pattern to use my good fabric. Just one other way a mock-up can be useful, it depends on the project.
I started sewing (beyond buttons and hemming) in June of this year - between you and Bernadette Banner I started the right way and made mock ups from the start. Otherwise that 8 panel skirt that I made in cotton as a test for the planned silk skirt would have come up several sizes too big. I've not worked from patterns yet, but started out by trying to replace 3 of my favourite (but very simple) skirts. Who would measure the panels, and write all the measurements down, then 2 or 3 days later when the toile fabric arrived, start cutting out all the panels, adding 2 cm seam allowance as Ms Banner does - having completely forgotten that they'd already added the 2cm seam allowance when they wrote down the measurements.
Thank goodness that was done on £2.99m poplin not the £11.99m cotton or the £15m silk that the final skirt was made from. But having made my mistakes on the poplin (and a couple of minor errors on the cotton), by the time I got to the silk last week, I made a beautiful skirt that fits so nicely - with added pockets.
As I was honing my skills in preparation for the silk skirt, I even made another replacement skirt from a duvet cover - again, a toile was made first which enabled me to see where I wanted to make changes to improve the fit.
Next skirt? I want to replace my red velvet skirt - but I'm contemplating a few replacement pyjamas tops first.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge via these videos - I've discovered I'm not useless when it comes to sewing, after all.
I make a toile for most garments I make. Being petite pear shape with a slight sway back. No pattern will fit me right out of the package. By making a toile I can assess the fit and transfer those adjustments to my traced off pattern pieces. I then end up with nice fitting clothes and get complements every time I wear one of my handmade garments, even from strangers sometimes. It is a good feeling. You feel better and more confident wearing something that fits your body. So making a toile is a must in my sewing. :) I think everyone should incorporate it into their sewing with woven and knit fabrics.
@Jay Fields How exciting! Your first sewing machine. You sound like you really are making use of it. Happy sewing!
I use a muslin. Muslin is our friend. Bedsheets, curtains, tablecloths are nice. I used to skip it but then I decided to get serious about sewing. My birthday present to myself this year was that I gave myself permission to spend the time and effort to learn to really sew. Muslin is my friend.
Mary I love this so much!! My experience was similar, in that when I wanted to really learn properly and well, toiles were my best sewing friends 😄😄
@@Evelyn__Wood I was so happy I didn't sew that first pair of pants with this fabric! This pair is full of mistakes in cutting and sewing but I can hide it with this shirt! I'm pleased with the shirt. The whole thing has a 1920s smoking pajamas vibe.
That's what everyone says about it their mock-up!! 🤣
Could you ise a decent mock up as the lining?
I usually try to go for a "wearable" mock-up. I use cheap fabric, but can be worn when finished. Most times, when I do a mock-up out of muslin, if the fit is good, that mock up usually becomes the lining in the real garment.
Using the muslin as a lining is brilliant.
I hadn’t thought of using it as the lining. Mum would use a wearable fabric and so does my sister. I don’t sew that much and the last few I’ve done I went straight to the real fabric 😁. Could’ve used a mock up for one of the dresses!
This is how my grandma sewed. She came from a pretty poor background where fabric couldn't really be wasted on a mock up that wouldn't be worn, so if she did sew a mock up for an outfit it was either wearable in itself or formed part of the lining of the finished garment.
Smart!
That’s such a great idea, and makes me so happy to hear. Sure sheets are cheap, but I can’t bear the waste of fabric.
This video is making me smile too much. I beg my friends to make mockups and they rarely do and get so mad when they have issues.
Jahsir I know exactly what you mean! 😉
I get that, it really is a profound waste of time if you're handsewing. If you have a sewing machine it's not as painful or slow, but as someone who is currently a handsewer this is NOT happening lol
When I was younger and first dabbling in sewing I just wanted to rush to finish. No mockups. Very little care for finishing seams or pressing. It made sewing unpleasant because while I was proud to finish, I didnt actually enjoy wearing the clothing because of fit issues. I only sewed a few projects before I stopped all together.
I took about 10 years without sewing anything thinking it "just wasnt for me." and now that I'm learning again I find I really treasure taking every extra step I can to make everything just right. Mockups are no exception.
Theres just something so zen and wonderful about pushing myself to the fullest for each creation. If I'm making something to wear I want it to be made as best as possible. Otherwise I might as well buy something off the rack that doesn't fit well to begin with. Your videos have really gotten across attention to detail and brought about this change in approach. 🥰
Its crazy how little things like pressing and under stitching make all the difference in how a garment looks. Using a mockup to help with fitting issues and even sewing practice make all the difference!
Omg I feel exactly the same. Made two skirts that didn’t fit. Now mock ups for now on
My process is to make three versions. First is from a cheap calico where test the fit and the new techniques. The second is the first finished version. It is made from cheap / discounted fabric that I wouldn't cry a river over if something goes wrong. By finishing it with all the interfacings, linings etc I get a garment that I can actually wear. Usually there are mistakes that I have made so I designate it as home / garden / getting messing clothes. The third is the one that I will wear in public and might have been made from nicer fabric. By doing this I can have nice-ish clothes to wear at home and had practice.
You've convinced me and I'm so glad!
Just imagine having ADHD and trying to make a toile. Oh the tedium!
But, just imagine when your pattern turns out awesome bc you took the time to make a toile and work out all the issues before using your good fabric. Oh, the joy! Totally worth it. x
I find Morgan Donner's mock up process inspiring. She isn't rushing herself at all, she respects the process in its entirety! I remember when she was making her first corset she went through at least 3 functional patterns to get it absolutely perfect. Very cool
I agree, it's all about the process! ❤
Me too!
I love watching Morgan Donner!! She is another one of my many sewing faves!!!♡♡
I compare it to making that first pancake....its a little messy and needs tweeking but the second one is spot on! Thanks Evelyn this was really helpful !
Perfect! I'm using this next time, thankyou 😄❤
Ah! Good way to put it.😊
I keep a stash of bed sheets I find at garage sales/estate sales/thrift stores for this very reason!
Me too!! 😀
What do you do with the mockups after you’re done with your project? I feel a little guilty taking something that could be used as bedding to make a garment that I can’t donate afterwards.
I watch many couture videos from french fashion houses and even the pros do a mock up before the actual product is done. Watching the hour long video on the infamous Dior Red Coat shows us why mock ups are important.
I say especially the pro's, as it's just part of the process right! Ann's those shows are everything!! ❤
@@Evelyn__Wood Everyone should watch that Dior one on that red coat! Lot of work! Hand stitching and layers of tulle ...or netting...you realize why the finished product is high end!
I need to find this video!
I love that one video, it was the real first eye awakening moment I had understanding the process of making a beautiful garment.
I make a garment at least once using old sheets before I use my good fabric. I made a dress 3 times because it was my first time grading up a pattern and made notes along the way. Highly recommended
Superstar!! I bet every one of those toiles was worth it for the beautiful garment you had in the end!
Me watching this video while I unpick my mockup for a coat so I can easily trace the modified pattern from it...
I always make a toile for fitted garnement. I didn't when I made a cape or an elasticated circle skirt.
You know how to do it!! 😄😄
I'm a beginner, so I definitely use mock ups! I'm not confident enough in my skills to cut into my expensive fabric until I've had a trial run first.
Coming out of the teddy bear making world, I was already in the mindset to make mockups on things that have even the smallest chance of not fitting on the first go. When you're cutting into expensive faux fur that you will never be able to get more of, you make as many mockups as it takes.
I learned early on in my sewing journey (all of a mere 2 1/2 years ago) that my time and energy is too valuable NOT to make a mock-up! On my first ever garment project (pajama pants with piping and pockets), I made a mock-up, in less expensive flannel. Am I ever so glad I did! It made the whole process calmer, because I wasn't at all worried about making any mistakes or ruining the fabric...because it's just practice. I felt free to make, and learn from, mistakes; I felt okay (time lost, but not money; and experience gained) when one of pants I made didn't fit it's recipient AT ALL; I felt confident when I started on my final/fashion fabric. That first experience has convinced me to always make a mock-up whenever I try a new pattern or technique.
Thanks for this video. It's reassuring to learn that others think it's a worthwhile investment of time and energy, too.
Back when I was a more average size, I didn't make mock ups unless I was significantly altering a pattern. These days I am not an average size and despise ill fitting garments, so I always make mock ups. I'll usually try and make a wearable garment from the toile, because even if it's secondhand fabric, I want to get as much use out of it as possible. I garden in trousers made from curtains and a shirt made from bed sheets.
Oh yes! I've turned toiles into house clothes before!! 😄
@@Evelyn__Wood Especially if I am sewing with a knit fabric, because I usually have to buy fabric for the mock up.
I make toiles and have for a while, but now I'm working smarter with what Evelyn has taught me at Vintage Sewing school. I know which steps to take to make it fit my curves better. And a toile allows for me to see a better order of operation.
❤ Sheryl I love how you say 'working smarter'! I'm so glad to have you at VSS!
You've sold me, Evelyn. As a carpenter I TRY to live by the code of measuring twice, cutting once, especially with other people's lumber, and at today's prices. This is one of the many parallels that trade shares with garment making. I say try, because I'm the kind of person who always has several projects on the go and is a poor judge of how long they will take (ADHD) and usually ends up rushing them at some point to keep up with the unrealistic schedule that I have set for myself. The key, I have learned, is to not overload my schedule and limit my expectations on any given day, as well as allowing for interruptions and unexpected delays. I also recommend not telling anyone when you plan on finishing a project, because that can cause you to rush its completion just to save face.
In woodworking I have learned a valuable philosophy that "nature will reveal itself". In other words, the wood will tell you how it needs to be cut, or carved, or finished, as no two pieces are ever the same. The same goes for fabric, or cooking, or anything you make. The ingredients themselves will guide your approach if you will only just let them. Alter the garment, recipe, painting, or experiment as needed for your purposes. Practice, and attention to materials, make perfect. This is where, as you have quite rightly pointed out, where patience comes in. ( Note to self - make a plaque for the workshop that mentions patience - project #5219 ). Maybe writing the word "patience" all over my toile bedsheets with a big marker would help. It's worth a shot!
I tend to only like to make things once, and fear that if something is especially difficult I won’t want to do it again for a wearable garment 😬 thank you for this video!
❤ You are not alone! I think going in with the mindset that it is a practice, just a test of the real thing only. It takes the pressure off feeling like you've made 2 and turns the focus to the process of making 😊
That’s a great idea! Idk why I hadn’t considered going into it with a different mindset, definitely will try that!
My pleasure!! I hope it helps!
Currently working on my first garment, from... an old bedsheet from the thriftstore! No mockup, it's just a square shift so it really didn't need one ;)
I did a mock-up for the "Haori" (japanese coat) that I made from an existing one (so no pattern I had to make it), and finally I ended up using the mock-up as lining for the actual coat, helped me a lot. And now I am making a kind of chemise, and luckily I am actually doing the mock-up right now because I am a beginner and I made plenty of mistakes, also it is a bit big, I am currently trying to figure out how to fix it and also fix the pattern. As you proposed for beginners I am doing it like a finished garment to work everything out. Thank you for your vidéos they help me a lot!
This is wondeful!! It sounds like your enjoying the process very much!! ❤
I enjoy the whole process of sewing and I want to make perfectly finished clothes so making a mockup is part of the fun.
I'm training myself out of the impulse to just get straight into it with commercial patterns. When I'm drafting my own then I am more excited about the project and doing it right, I think I'm more interested in the whole process.
I'm really trying to focus on enjoying the whole process of sewing, not just the end result. I started to do a lot more hand sewing in genersl, particularly running stitch on early mock-ups. It's actually made a huge difference! I love the problem solving and accomplishment when it's all nutted out.
As a person who makes my own pattern, a mock up (or several) is a MUST. My self-made pattern never fits unless I make at least one mock up. Usually takes 4 though.
Most of the time I do make a muslin. I know from bitter experience when I was a very young sewer. Spending a great deal of time doing your best, most precise work on a garment you then cannot wear is heartbreaking.
Have sewn for years, but recently have been drafting my own and the mockup is a great idea. Don't mind doing it because I can work out the kinks. I use old sheets.
And also, my zipper goes all the way to the top. :) Sorry, a little sewing humor.
I was working on a very basic, small bag and was planning on making alterations to the pattern. My changes were themselves so small and the pattern so simple I figured I could go right to cutting into my final fabric. But before I did I remembered your video about testing and realized just in case I should do a mockup with fabric out of my scrap pile. Good thing I did since I got my length and width measurements turned around in my calculations! When I did it again on the final fabric the measurements were just right.
So yes, even on weetiny beginner projects I think: what would Evelyn say I should do? :D
Oh I'm so glad you remembered just at the right time!! ❤
@@Evelyn__Wood Me too!
I have been a staunch ignorer of toiles for 50 years but you have changed my mind. I never realized that a toile doesn't have to be finished since I never paid attention to details about something I refused to do. Now, I am having to make myself an entire new wardrobe after not sewing garments for myself for ages, and just flat out wasting a whole lot of fabric. I can't wait to start my next project now!! ........ Oh and "Good Golly Gosh!!" :D I love it :)
I'm very happy to hear it! 😄
Good Golly Gosh was an expression we used at school all the time and I still use it now many years later! I have a smile to myself when I hear my grown up children using it.
@@lunasmum6869 It is such a "happy" expression. I love it, it made me smile
I firmly believe in a mock-up, especially if it is a new, difficult pattern or expensive fabric. I made a bridesmaid dress for my daughter and, for various reasons - change of mind/change of weight - we had to change the mock-up 3 times before we were both happy. I used a similar but cheaper fabric and, afterwards, donated the mock-up to a seamstress that is not financially well off, to complete and sell in her community.
I found out about mock-ups by dumb luck. I'm a novice sewer and I found myself needing to make a purse for myself. It had to be very specific because I use a power chair or wheelchair. I keep the purse on the arm of the chair when I go out. Long story short, I had to make own. Since this was something quite a bit over my head, I decided to make a very cheap version. Evelyn, I have found that mock-ups are the way to go! Thanks for your video today. It was very helpful. I didn't know to use the same fabric as my project. I also didn't know that designers make them as well.
I don't do toiles if I'm working with my trusty base patterns.
But if I have to do too many changes, I make one.
For example, I needed to make my base pattern bigger for my winter coat. So I did a toile to figure out some kinks, which worked.
Sadly, my toile fabric was too different from my coat fabric. So in the end, I still needed to do minor changes in the princess seam and the side seams. But it was easy to handle
Oh that sounds like a fabulous coat! And definetly with the effort!
@@Evelyn__Wood well, I ended up sewing the bugger all by hand. 6weeks daily piqueing and backstiching and such, because my different wool layers wouldn't behave by machine.
(Btw, still not done :D ) so, the little bit of time for the toile was well worth it! As much as I enjoy the process of all the handsewing, I would not appreciate doing seams over and over.
🤤🤤 All by hand! You are the master!
@@Evelyn__Wood nah, no master. I have no idea what I'm doing. ;D
@@reginafetty6374 I must say, I enjoyed the process of the hand sewing, trying to enjoy the process, like knitting. I learned a lot, and love the amount of control hand sewing gives me.
I usually just do some research for things I have never done, and then just go for it and learn through the process. A lot of things I just try and then when I see the effect it has on the garment, I go "ooooh, that's why!" I really love that!
Atm my coat is on a break. (Just need to finish the lamb fur collar and sew the lining), but it started to stress me a bit. So I'll give it a week or two, until I can go back at it with joy :)
Started knitting again in the meantime, because my hands got so used to movement :D
If you want to try handsewing with some finnicky fabrics, I would just try it! Look at some videos, use a thimble! And good needle and thread!, do some try runs on easy fabrics and the finnicky ones, and then just go for it. Handsewing is learned mostly by just doing it, but it gets so much easier so fast.
I haven't done any garment sewing in over 30 years. I learned basic sewing skills in high school, and not much about fitting. The last time I made a dress that didn't fit when it seemed I had all of my measurements correct, I gave the dress away, and only sewed to mend items and garments. I now can see the usefulness of a muslin, so will probably do this if I ever sew a garment again. I need to learn more about fitting before that even.
I have always had trouble with patterns not fitting me. I can do coats and loose fitting things but anything form fitting-forget it. I recently found a pattern for a 70s jumper I really wanted to try. I ended up finding 4yds of ugly fabric at the thrift store for $2. I bought that and just did a toile. So glad I did! I have a long torso so it was a disaster. Now I get to figure out how to alter the pattern-which is how I just found your channel! Thank you for all your knowledge!
I've learned that making a toile is necessary if I actually want to like the finished garment. Just yesterday I finished the toile for a shirt dress and wow it was a learning experience. Even before cutting pieces for the toile I had made what are becoming my standard set of alterations. Square shoulders, narrow back, FBA was handled by the pattern. Looking at the pieces I decided to skip my usual short waist adjustment.
I cut everything and adjusted as I went. I ended up drafting new sleeves to lower the sleeve cap. Moved the front bust dart around. And sewed a collar with a band for the first time ever (it was tricky).
After trying on the dress, I realized that short waist adjustment I skipped really needed to be done. I didn't realize this until the weight of the skirt was attached to the bodice. Also that bust dart I had moved need to move back to it's original position. And the horizontal bust dart needs to move up.
If I had skipped the toile the dress would have been a big disappointment. This afternoon I made changes to the pattern and will start on the wearable garment this week. I have much more confidence that the dress will turn out to be a piece I really love.
I’m fortunate to Volunteer in a Thrift shop, so I rummage through the Remnant fabric box as well as the zipper box. I’m beginning my first skirt and thank goodness I am doing.tge mock up as J would have completely ruined a beautiful Jacquard fabric. I write down in an exercise book the errors along the way and watch countless tutorials on how best to tackle things like fabric that frays so badly. I’m keeping old tablecloths, bedsheets, and oddments to learn and master my new hobby which I’m really enjoying.
Just started sewing during covid and when Vinnie's reopened I bought all the bed sheets!!
Perfect timing for the video, since we’re making dress patterns and mock ups this week in my school!
I'm with you, Evelyn. Toiles are a must for me...and I have a fabric bin full of thrift store sheets just for that purpose! 😀
There, at 8:15, you said what I needed to hear. Making a muslin Is part of the process.
I need to learn the steps of the entire process, not just the steps in the pattern instructions. I have some of the skills and knowledge already, adding the process framework will help very much. Thank you.
This is a game changer as I have found out by experience learned from you at VSS X
😄 Right!! As soon as you want to start making adjustments to patterns to fit you right, you must make a toile! It has been wonderful to watch you make leaps and bounds in your sewing! ❤
Many years ago I set out to make a shirt. There were so much information on the pattern or lack of that I gave up. I started last year's sewing season with making garments. Patterns still had lots of information and the lack of. But I could not be intimidated when I came to cutting out the garment because I have already done the research, made my notes so it wasn't the first time in making my project. Takes longer but well worth it.
This makes so much sense!! I have been thinking of making my husband a shirt with nicer fabric, but I’ve never made one for him before and never thought of doing something like this. I’m still pretty new.
I, all of a sudden, kept seeing “how to make muslins” on my Pinterest feed. Then you made a video about it. The universe is BEGGING me to add this step in my sewing 😂
To be honest I don't even bother sometimes, depending on the garment. When I do, I tend to use a cheap, but cute fabric and if it looks good, it ends up in my wardrobe as well.
Thank you for this! I've been wanting to improve my garment sewing for a while and I've made a handful of things but every single time the first one is crap and I'm so frustrated. I think making a mock-up will develop my confidence faster than screwing up the real fabric over and over. Thank you again!
I love making toiles for my garments and every single time I haven't, I regretted it bitterly. Most times, I even make toiles for bags and accessories or to test techniques out (like welt pockets). Usually, to make the task more fun, I make them "wear mock-ups".
You also made a good point about picking similar fabric. I once fitted a mock-up exactly to my taste and got really frustrated when the final fabric (which had a slight stretch to it) messed it all up!
Hello, Kimberly Here, watching from McDonough, Georgia. I've just found your channel. Haven't started my sewing journey but love all of your tips. I will definitely, always do a mock-up. Also, thank you for the 14 things you wish you New as a beginner. Noted. I will join your new sewing community!
To be honest I didn’t really know what a mock up was before watching your videos. As I only made a few garments as a child and the pattern of course never mentions them, it just wasn’t something I was aware of. It absolutely makes sense though. You wouldn’t make a fancy dinner without trying the recipes first, would you? Neither would you want to jump into a garment that took a lot of time and work without being sure that it will look how you want or testing out any difficult steps. I plan to join you in vintage sewing school as soon as my children and finances make it possible!
I always make a toile now. I never feel enthusiastic about it but I just know it's better in the long run if I do and I never ever regret it!
I definitely am in the muslin camp. I may not make one for the entire garment, but always make one for the parts that are most closely fitted.
Dear Evelyn, you have been so inspirational and educational and informative and fun through this strange and tricky year. PS: love the eyebrows
I've only ever had to make two fitted garments in my life for myself - I prefer a more relaxed/looser style which gives more ease/moving room. I did make a mock-up, but mainly because I felt my teacher measured me too tightly - I was very skinny up until my mid-thirties, yet she was causing my relatively flat boobs to muffin-top over the tape measure. In answer to my query she said the bodice is tightly fitted with boning in it so you had to measure likewise. I followed her measured instructions, made a calico mock-up of the bodice and literally started to split the seams in trying to do up the zipper - not to mention that I couldn't breathe properly throughout this procedure. It was no big deal, though, because I'd bought a multi-sized pattern and hadn't wasted my fabric. I think she measured everyone too tight for the express purpose of going through the mock-up. You can take it in much easier than let it out.
Making comfy loose fit garments is nice, so you don't have to do this whole fit process!
I think some sewing teachers have a lot to answer for. They probably put a lot of students off sewing for good with their bad advice. I was always told off at school for not doing what the teacher said. If I had my garment would not have fitted. Luckily I had a mother who sewed professionally so she put me on the correct path but so many of the other students have never sewn again.
@@lunasmum6869 I was one of those - put off sewing pretty much for good, having been led to believe that I was useless and incapable of sewing on more than a button.
Imagine my surprise when, having bought a cheap machine to make masks with in June, that I found I was capable of making decent length cotton waist slips and realising if I could make them I could make simple skirts. And having made my toile and been able to get something that resembled a fit (even if it was way too big because of a measuring error), I then went on to make the skirt again using a decent weight cotton and having done a few more projects in between, I made myself a silk skirt last week. And it's not awful, and I'm going to get so much pleasure from wearing it.
Part of me is annoyed that a poor teacher led me to waste so much time thinking I couldn't sew - the rest of me is just making up for lost time.
Next project is a quilted case for my left-handed fabric shears before I consider a 'sew together' bag for either sewing or spinning supplies.
I am too impatient to make a toile but most of my dresses have a lining that are basically a copy of the dress so if that looks good I'm brave enough to go ahead. Plus I find my first attempt is actually the better one because I've concentrated so hard and tried to be super accurate. On the second round I tend to get overconfident and/or start trying to take short cuts.
PS I would love a video on the units to focus when making a garment- sleeves, collars, bodice, skirts etc and the order they should be done in. Thanks for the video 🙂
Thanks! I have a video just like this in mind to make already 😄
I am going to do a toile for the first time on my next garment after my first ever shirt could use a few adjustments😉. I am new to sewing and am binge watching your channel. I love it.
I am sewing my first pair of jeans, because it is almost impossible for me to find a pair that looks good and is comfortable.There were quite a few changes I needed to make to the pattern and because I don't want to ruin my denim, I'll take the time to sew a muslin. After I get the fit right, it will be a lot easier and quicker to whip up more jeans. Well worth the effort!
Mock-ups seem to be quite popular Evelyn ! Its 10 years now since I last made clothes. I never had time to do a toile of any kind, guess I was lucky things turned out ok. Now I am more into altering things I bought. I still love the theory of it all, maybe one day... thanks for sharing.
This past year I have been making a lot of vintage dresses using patterns from the 30-40's so I wanted to see how well they fit. So I made some mock ups with fabric that I liked, but wasn't my "special" fabric. I do love using vintage floral sheets. Only one of my mock-ups didn't work, the rest I finished up. The one that didn't work I used a wool rayon that was covered in holes. I managed to squeeze the pattern in between the holes. If it didn't work then no great loss. Well I realized that I needed a really flowy fabric for the pattern, the mock up didn't have enough drape. I ended up using a vintage Hawaiian rayon that turned out lovely.
This is great! Thank you. When I started sewing during lockdown this year, I decided that as I wasn't going anywhere fast I would add the mock-ups to my new routine. I have saved so much money through doing them! Some patterns I just ended up not liking on my body, others needed loads of adjustments, and some I have mashed up with others to get the perfect look for me, not anyone else. As a new sewer, I cannot advocate this part of the process enough. Also, this is slow fashion, not fast fashion, so take the time and enjoy it.
What helpful advice! Bed sheets are fantastic things to thrift and put to use, especially since these old houseware textiles so often find no other use second hand.
I've been making a toile of a tunic pattern based on an old one that's soon to be recycled. I very nearly gave up, but your video's revived my belief that the time I've been spending on this preparation is well worth it before using my beautiful batik fabric. Thank-you, once again.
Such a lively and engaging video! I appreciate the message to enjoy every part of the process and appreciate all the steps to completion of the project; as they say "It's the journey not the destination" (well we are always rushing to finish so we can start the next super-cute project!).
Thank you for doing this video, because I am goingto use the toile/ mock-up when I start to sewing again.
I remember our sewing instructors in high school and college talking about a muslin, but we never made one. I do remember discussion about the names toile and mock-up, but the term used in Oklahoma where I grew up and went to college was muslin. I just purchased a pattern from eBay that I want to make that looks like a muslin would be helpful but think I can manage with just careful measuring. Vogue 1215, a tunic that is very loose fitting, but I would perhaps like it to fit a bit more closer on the shoulder, so not sure if I’ll try a muslin or not. It has beautiful tucks! I read through it yesterday, and there’s not a single step I have not done in the past, but it has been over 50 years since I made bound buttonholes! Can hardly wait to start!
Thanks so much for an informative video!
This sounds very exciting!! Have fun!! 😀
Evelyn Wood thank you! 😍
I do a toile for every new pattern, especially the bodice. I learnt my lesson way too many times and over time just became more particular with my fit. In my sewing group its not unusual to make multiple toiles, we don't say that we do it but we do. 😉
Hi Evelyn I'm a self taught sewer and pattern-maker... I'm new to your videos and I appreciate your humility in combination with your advanced skill. I believe you have made sewing so much more approachable by reassuring us that it's normal to be confused, all while giving us overachievers confidence that our time is well spent when learning from you. At all skill levels, you are an inspiration to enjoy the craft even more.
I am stubborn with not wanting to sew something in muslin first because the muslin fabric itself has such a different stretch and texture than my final fabric. I do not use pre-made patterns though. I think I bought a vogue one right off the bat and decided to just draft my own instead based on guesswork and symmetry.
In my area I can get a nice discounted designer fabric for $10-$15 a yard but I would still be spending $8-$10 a yard for the muslin so I prefer to do a mock-up in the final fabrics, which are often stretchy or fluffy when I design stuffed animals for my kids. I wonder if I should be using an interfacing for knits to help them keep their shape but I don't know enough about interfacing. Anyway, thank you for all that you do. Your style is refreshing in today's world of sweatpants and hoodies. :)
often times it is simply an annoying but necessary step to make the best out of the pattern and fabric you got. Especially is you are working with a new pattern or your own pattern or an expensive fabric for the project it is SO worth it
I'm a newbie but I just did my first mockup for my first corset - and it was definitely so valuable to practice using the machine, adjusting the fit and even adding notes to the instructions that I think will make the final project easier. (Basting at one point would be invaluable, so I made a note.) I think I am now sold on mockups even though at first I thought like we all do - why do I want to do it twice??
Right!! Until you make one, make changes and see how you use it to make a better garment, you never don't do one again! 😄
I have been sewing for years but have recently become interested in the vintage dresses and wanted a corset to smooth out my figure in order to wear these dresses. I've made a toile of my chosen corset pattern and it fitted!! I usually have to make loads of alterations to dress patterns before I can sew them for real. I'm hesitating to cut into that expensive coutil though! I know it will fit so what am I hesitating for? I used to think why would i want to make something twice but learned the hard way with a lovely skirt which did not fit. When I was a girl I made things from patterns and they always fitted but, as the years take their toll, a toile is a must, it saves hours of unstitching and re sewing.
I rarely make time to make a mock-up but do for formal dresses or when I'm making up my own patterns. It does feel like a lot of work
When I think back to the early 90s, when I was sewing US Civil War uniforms from very expensive hand-dyed kersey wool, I was SO dumb! At least with the trousers, I used less expensive material, but I lucked out with first time success on the jackets (although a lot of unpicking was involved.) Now I make a mock-up and work out the kinks before I cut into that Harris tweed.
,
I usually sew for grandchildren but recently I "whipped up" a skirt for myself very quickly. I am always in a hurry and sewing to a deadline so I cut out the fabric for 2 skirts. I loved the fabric and was just devastated that it was far TOO SMALL for me! I couldn't believe it! When I looked at the measurements in disbelief I was actually 2 sizes larger than the pattern size I had bought (the size that fits me off the rack in dress shops). It turned out beautifully and I gave it to an extended family member :-(
I now have the cut fabric for the second skirt looking at me (different pattern- but - you guessed it, the measurements say it is far too small. if only I hadn't rushed and cut the fabric without checking the measurements. I am going to make a mock up with a smaller seam allowance and see if I can add fabric in a contrasting colour to save the skirt if need be. I have learnt a valuable lesson. wish me luck!
Oh my god... sewing pattern sizes are in a completely different reality than the rest of the world. It totally explains why models basically have to have anorexia if they want to be models. I was asking my friends the other day "If my dress size, which is 6 in plain english, is *18* in sewing pattern, then what the hell does an adult 6 in sewing patterns look like? Skin and bones?"
Mock ups are my best friend.
You’ve talked about tissue fitting before but i dont do the tissue bc im extremely heavy-handed AND clumsy and often don’t know my own strength so i copy my tissue patterns on the non-woven interfacing off the bolt bc it wont tear as easily on me, i use this instead of tissue fitting, then i use the mock-up to test how well the fabric i want to use will work using a less-costly fabric with same type (either woven or knit), similar stretch (where applicable), similar weight and similar drape. I then finish it into a bonus garment before making the pattern in the “good” fabric lol i dont sew/baste my interfacing-/tissue-fitting bc i like to keep it as a good quality pattern for future makes lol some people use heavyweight paper or even dressmaker’s “manilla” or whatever but the interfacing has a more flexible feel and paper will tear easier and when you fold it eventually will tear on fold whereas you just iron out the folds on the interfacing pattern
I made a toile of a pair of jeans. I had some lighter weight denim on hand that I used as my toile. It ended up being the actual pair that I ware. I love 'em! The "real" fabric I was going to use would have been a disaster. It was way way way too heavy. SO, I'm now making my mom a jean jacket out of that too heavy denim. It's working out so much better for that then jeans. YES, the toile is totally worth it.
I have been making them. Helps me practice as well as fit better. I got 10 yards of muslin material at Mood for about $10. I always make sure I have some fabric around to make one.
I haven't ever made a mock up, but am going to do so now!
I have been sewing for a very long time - so now I only do a toile if it is a fitted garment, a brand new pattern style, or a new person I am sewing for - OR if it is a really important garment. but they do help! they can make all the difference.
Yes, you do get to know after a while what adjustments you are likely to need. I know the bust dart is always too high for me and the neck to waist is always too short, so I tackle that first before the toile. It saves a lot of time and, in a lot of cases, that is enough and a toile isn't needed. Tracing patterns onto Swedish Tracing paper helps as that can be sewn up to ensure it all fits. Cheaper than buying fabric for the toile.
Haven’t wondered into clothing making in a serious way yet but considering how many people I watch do mockups and drapping I’ve ended up wandering down that road and experimenting with non-clothing things.
Currently on my second mockup of an (eventually woollen) lunchbox in a design I like but has these wing flap openings that I needed to figure out how to adjust to my custom measurements so that took way longer than expected but I think I finally figured out how the ratios work now.
Also I was mentally cursing at that bit about doing things zippers and all for beginners because I’d done zippers before but not a ‘hidden’ (regular) zipper before. So you did inspire me to check I could actually do it on my mockup which also made me realise that ‘yes the zipper really does need to be sewn first thing (at least for my adapted version)’ which is good to know.
Also enjoyed your video in general so thanks for that!
Thank you very much for your wonderful detailed and still encouraging and cheerful channel about sewing. I will be watching a lot of your videos :)
I consider myself an advanced beginner, I was trying to find content to get to the next level, your videos are great, thanks a lot for your content and the joy with which you communicate all of this. I’m really glad I found your channel!
Your videos are so amazing. I was just researching about Toile and here you are! Thanks again!
Perfect timing!!
I am about to start a new project and I remembered this video and came back to it. I'm going to make a mock up for the first time-- this dress pattern is more fitted than anything I've previously made, and also I am challenging myself to take the time and care that the garment deserves. Thank you for this!
Learning. In vintage sewing school.❤
Only yesterday I spent some time making a mock-up. It was a very simple garment, but I'm still very much of a beginner so I'm determined to test even something as trivial as a raglan t-shirt, especially that working with knits scares me to bits. The mock-up turned out so well that I will be actually using it as a garment, more specifically a PJ top. So I guess what I'm trying to say: yes, making a mock-up means making the same garment twice. BUT it may also mean that you will end up with two garments that you can use! Bonus horror story: certain YTer recently made herself a dress, did not bother to make a mock-up, misread the sizing chart and ended up with a garment made of an absolutely gorgeous fabric she got as a souvenir from some exotic country, a dress that was made well, finished properly on all accounts and *two sizes too big*. Nice fabric is precious. Make a mock-up.
It could have been worse - it could have been 2 sizes too small.
@@somebodyelse138 I suppose it depends on the garment, some look good only of they fit perfectly ;) Her dress was definitely one of those.
I've never done this but definitely going to add it to my sewing routine. I just learned the hard way that all pants patterns are not created equal.
With new patterns I will make one, often it is just part of the outfit. I made a lapel mockup once that was just part of the body and the lapel (not the rest of the waistcoat)
Going to make a toile for even alterations (upcycling) a dress that needs to be updated.
Excellent! Thank you Evelyn.....
I recently started sewing again and knew after gaining some weight more so in the chest area I would need to make adjustments I made my first muslin which turned into 3 to get the fitting right but was worth all the effort for the wonderful fit I achieved 😁 Thank you Evelyn for the wonderful, informative video 👍🏼
2:26 lol i get any mock-up fabrics heavier-weight than “muslin” from the remnant bins and clearance bins… i make sure its got a pattern or color i like bc I usually finish the mock-up and have a bonus garment as a result lol anything muslin-weight (or lightweight “knit”) i use pre-owned bedsheets from friends and family (ahem, FREE) or the flat-sheets from my own sheets bc i never use those on my bed and i do this no matter what im doing: garment or non-garment sewing, crocheting (i use similar but cheaper yarn to make a test-project before using my good yarn), etc
Certain projects I don’t bother with a mock up, but most get at least a quick stitch together just for sizing/fit purposes. There have been plenty of times when I did a mock up just because I wanted to make sure I could actually follow the directions, and a few times I’ve gotten to the end of the directions and decided they should be done in a different order (I’m looking at you “zipper insertion after the crotch seam is sewn” and “hem sleeve then sew seam”)
Making a mockup not only saved my fashion fabric, but also allowed me to learn to make a full bust adjustment and change arm hole size etc. Was it a bit more work? Maybe, but I see it as a learning tool. I will always use a mockup now. Especially for new patterns.
As an analogy, no knitter would dare make a new garment without making a gauge swatch to assess if they are knitting at the correct tension for the garment, practice any special stitches, and make sure the material they are using will work with the project. Sometimes it takes several times making the swatch, washing and blocking it, to get the fabric at the correct size so that the garment will work up correctly and fit properly. It takes time, but better that than working for weeks on a garment that doesn’t fit. I’m just beginning my sewing journey, I foresee many mock ups in my future.
Your talented and so so goddamn nice....you would be an amazing fashion Professor....thanks for continuing to share your knowledge
😂😂
😍 I like that 'fashion professor'!
I only recently had made my very first mockup due to altering the pattern I was working quite significantly (adding a good 30-40cm of length) and I wanted to be sure that it would turn out the way I envisioned it before starting cuttin into my "real" fabric.
A good 90% of the projects I had done previously consisted mostly out of straight seams (skirts) so I didn't bother making a mockup for those ^^
I'm going to try making a toile for the first time. I know it will be worth it.
I'm going to try this for the first time. I'm going to convert a tank top pattern to a dress. I want the dress to be really loose. I also want to rais the neckline a little.
This sound like the prefect opportunity for your fist toile! It's like insurance that the real thing will turn out good! ❤ Let me know how it goes for you!
Love the video I will start doing a mock up, to see if my makes fit me better 😘
You mentioned that the mock-up fabric should be "like for like". The question that's been on my mind lately has been, what is the best fabric to use for a toile when your finished garment is to be made out of a knit fabric? Is there a go to knit fabric that is generally cheaper that will work for mock-ups or when buying the finished project fabric do you check the sale section at the same time for a similar weight and stretch knit to make the toile? Or... is knit so forgiving (or perhaps even too forgiving) that it is better to do the mock-up with a non-stretch fabric to begin with and when it comes to your actual garment build in negative ease to account for the stretch and just keep test fitting throughout the process?
Great question Nicole! You had the right idea, you would want to find a toile fabric that has a similar stretch amount first, and similar weight second. The amount of stretch is super important as it fits entirely differernt with different stretch! 😊
Heck yeah! With a 32F bra size, there's always complicated fitting and re-thinking to be done. I'm trying to create a basic bodice sloper, on my zillionth remake now, nearly there. Also, as time goes on I find myself more interested in investment sewing, real workhorse items, and you can't rush those. At least three toiles will happen - hopefully the final one in a fabric I could actually wear. Then onto the expensive fabric. I'm studying much more couture and true bespoke tailoring, which seems to involve a great deal of finicky slow-sewing. And I find that kind of zen.
This is what I must do. You are right. 😊
Pamela if try one nect garment let me know how it goes in your process! 😄
@@Evelyn__Wood I sure will. Im making a wedding dress. So this information is really on time for me. I will let you know how it comes out😊