YOU DON'T NEED THE OTHER PIECE WHEN USING THE ALUMINUM BRACKET. Been through 5 comps and a few messing around sessions with just the aluminum and no other pieces and it's fine. NSCRC RS700v2 on 4s and the aluminum on plastic is fine. I bought the stubby kit, and also the aluminum BTA mount, i did not use the plastic piece that came with the kit, and just went with the alum mount. Whenever I've inquired about the rubbing of the motor/skid on the stubby, I just get told to lower my pinion count and it won't be a problem!
It’s rubbing because if u notice the vrd was supposed to come with a 52t spur but they sent them with 56t. It u get the 52 it won’t rub. They also ignore my questions about the description being wrong
Yeah I've got the same aluminum F10 housing and aluminum BTA, and didn't need the plastic part. The important part seems to be which side the drag link goes to. Seen a couple people break their aluminum BTA mounts from running the drag link to the wrong side of the axle
Seems like a lot of work and $ just for soa me thinks they cared more about being different than being practical😂 you did a fantastic job as always, can't wait to see the rest of the rig. thanks.
Im not running the plastic bracket on mine. I’m pretty sure vanquish mentioned that you don’t need the plastic piece when running the aluminum on one of their live videos.
I also am running the aluminum bracket with no other pieces installed. Used my servo to toss my rig around a few times when front wheel was stuck....holds up just fine.
Thanks for making this vid. Drilling and cutting down the top shaft was something I’m kind of being forced to take on, since a guy can’t find the complete stubby axle conversion in stock anywhere in the U.S. atm…and for the last month or so.
A nice 2mm cobalt bit goes right through the top shaft. I use short length bits, which only have ~10mm of drilling depth. Came out perfectly straight. After I was done, I realized that 37-38mm is fine for the standoffs, as the second "rib" on the top shaft gets cut off, so the shaft has a bit of fore to aft play.
Awesome, thanks! I’m about to build a twin of a vrd kit I recently built for myself with rear steer and stubby/bta front but this one will be for my old man. As long as I can get that hole drilled straight, should save me some money and the wait for the kit to come back in stock.
Far as that extra plastic bracket for the servo mount, I’ve been running that aluminum servo mount on mine on the rear steer axle without the plastic truss and haven’t had any issues yet after a few weeks of pretty hard testing.
I’d really love to see the difference on the scales and what happens to the cgh by switching to the stubby kit. It’s a lot of money just to lower 80g about 1 inch. Cant wait to compete against stubby vrds this weekend 😊
Every time I see that bin full of parts that cost more than my 2 rigs and the 3rd one im assembling, I get a deep weird feeling in my heart I hope I remember two thing forever in my life: 1. NEVER tear apart completely a Vanquish gearbox 2. NEVER EVER think about getting the servo behind the axle thing or the stubby conversion. Not even think about it I have a question: is it possible to have a Phoenix paired with an RC4GS comfortably? I have been thinking about getting a RadioLink (just one for all my rigs), and I dont know if there is a proper way to pair the variable overdrive to the RC4GS, I know it can be done to the RC6GS. I guess the best idea would be to get an RC6GS, as im just going to have one radio, it would be really dumb to buy one that doesnt have enough channels
You can, but you'll have to use the button I generally reserve for cruise control for the OD. And I don't like that, because for one I love cruise control, and second I can then never remember which OD I'm in. If you're only getting one radio, spend the extra few bucks and get the RC6. The little toggles come in super handy.
I understand the plastics are more dense then say the OG scx10 days but my experience is over tightening plastic deforms the shape adding unnecessary gear mesh and bearing preloaded. Also there is grease I would assume even machined Over powder metal would absorb the grease/oils over time. Is it necessary to over grease when disassembling you always find it rejected into the case corners?
I habitually overgrease-- and I think some of what you say might be happening, as when I pull apart sintered gears that have been in there awhile, the grease is just... gone. With machined gears, the grease is just everywhere. An absolute mess.
I personally how no doubt you could mount that servo - or - make your own little plastic piece, just remember when putting the two aluminum pieces together don’t forget to lock tight it. I have the Ute most confidence in your ability !!!
1 IF anything, looks like servo screws are just behind the axle spine/brace, just delrin the front 2 servo screws below the mount, and run screws from the front through the speed holes on the housing. Strip anodizing off a big boy servo horn, and clear it.
I would seem so, but I feel like I cut more off of the standoffs than the top shaft, which shouldn't be a thing. The length of the standoffs (IMO) isn't as critical as the placement of the pin hole for the top gear, so I was definitely treating it as it's own thing.
Ha. Aha. Aha ha ha. AH HA HA! AHAHAHAHHAHAHA!!! . Thanks, I needed that. This moves up into the lofty echelons of comments made by "persons without clue." Well done.
My VRD has been complete for months. Vanquish has said so, so has Josh you don't need the bracket. They are not trying to make you buy more than you need.@@CrawlerCanyon
I hope you are having a good time! Your content is very good and you have a good amount of subscribers. But your video optimization section area is not correct, Out of 100 that’s score 10. That’s why your video is not reaching more and more people. As the views increase, so will the benefit. I think your UA-cam channel will make your dream come true. I'm a certified UA-cam SEO expert with a passion for optimizing and a UA-cam channel manager. Can I help promote your channel?
YOU DON'T NEED THE OTHER PIECE WHEN USING THE ALUMINUM BRACKET. Been through 5 comps and a few messing around sessions with just the aluminum and no other pieces and it's fine. NSCRC RS700v2 on 4s and the aluminum on plastic is fine. I bought the stubby kit, and also the aluminum BTA mount, i did not use the plastic piece that came with the kit, and just went with the alum mount. Whenever I've inquired about the rubbing of the motor/skid on the stubby, I just get told to lower my pinion count and it won't be a problem!
It’s rubbing because if u notice the vrd was supposed to come with a 52t spur but they sent them with 56t. It u get the 52 it won’t rub. They also ignore my questions about the description being wrong
Yeah I've got the same aluminum F10 housing and aluminum BTA, and didn't need the plastic part. The important part seems to be which side the drag link goes to. Seen a couple people break their aluminum BTA mounts from running the drag link to the wrong side of the axle
Seems like a lot of work and $ just for soa me thinks they cared more about being different than being practical😂 you did a fantastic job as always, can't wait to see the rest of the rig. thanks.
Im not running the plastic bracket on mine. I’m pretty sure vanquish mentioned that you don’t need the plastic piece when running the aluminum on one of their live videos.
I also am running the aluminum bracket with no other pieces installed. Used my servo to toss my rig around a few times when front wheel was stuck....holds up just fine.
You don’t need the axle bracket with the aluminum bracket
Thanks for making this vid. Drilling and cutting down the top shaft was something I’m kind of being forced to take on, since a guy can’t find the complete stubby axle conversion in stock anywhere in the U.S. atm…and for the last month or so.
A nice 2mm cobalt bit goes right through the top shaft. I use short length bits, which only have ~10mm of drilling depth. Came out perfectly straight.
After I was done, I realized that 37-38mm is fine for the standoffs, as the second "rib" on the top shaft gets cut off, so the shaft has a bit of fore to aft play.
Awesome, thanks! I’m about to build a twin of a vrd kit I recently built for myself with rear steer and stubby/bta front but this one will be for my old man. As long as I can get that hole drilled straight, should save me some money and the wait for the kit to come back in stock.
Far as that extra plastic bracket for the servo mount, I’ve been running that aluminum servo mount on mine on the rear steer axle without the plastic truss and haven’t had any issues yet after a few weeks of pretty hard testing.
Thanks for doing this. I’ve been planning doing this on my upcoming RC Speedy/Phoenix build…..but I will order the kit…lol
I’d really love to see the difference on the scales and what happens to the cgh by switching to the stubby kit. It’s a lot of money just to lower 80g about 1 inch. Cant wait to compete against stubby vrds this weekend 😊
Welcome back 😊 Did the crawler canyon turn into crawler islands 😅?
Them gold wheels are bloody nice 👌 👍
Every time I see that bin full of parts that cost more than my 2 rigs and the 3rd one im assembling, I get a deep weird feeling in my heart
I hope I remember two thing forever in my life:
1. NEVER tear apart completely a Vanquish gearbox
2. NEVER EVER think about getting the servo behind the axle thing or the stubby conversion. Not even think about it
I have a question: is it possible to have a Phoenix paired with an RC4GS comfortably? I have been thinking about getting a RadioLink (just one for all my rigs), and I dont know if there is a proper way to pair the variable overdrive to the RC4GS, I know it can be done to the RC6GS. I guess the best idea would be to get an RC6GS, as im just going to have one radio, it would be really dumb to buy one that doesnt have enough channels
You can, but you'll have to use the button I generally reserve for cruise control for the OD. And I don't like that, because for one I love cruise control, and second I can then never remember which OD I'm in. If you're only getting one radio, spend the extra few bucks and get the RC6. The little toggles come in super handy.
My stubby kit came with the bta and everything else needed to install it for the $40-45. All inclusive
The stubby components plastics kit has that bracket in it it’s just the plastics for the stubby and the bta mount for 17 bucks
No you gotta spend 17
I understand the plastics are more dense then say the OG scx10 days but my experience is over tightening plastic deforms the shape adding unnecessary gear mesh and bearing preloaded.
Also there is grease I would assume even machined
Over powder metal would absorb the grease/oils over time. Is it necessary to over grease when disassembling you always find it rejected into the case corners?
I habitually overgrease-- and I think some of what you say might be happening, as when I pull apart sintered gears that have been in there awhile, the grease is just... gone. With machined gears, the grease is just everywhere. An absolute mess.
I refused to pay the $44 dollars for the back ordered stubby kit. So I made my own also. It wasn’t hard to do
I personally how no doubt you could mount that servo - or - make your own little plastic piece, just remember when putting the two aluminum pieces together don’t forget to lock tight it. I have the Ute most confidence in your ability !!!
1 IF anything, looks like servo screws are just behind the axle spine/brace, just delrin the front 2 servo screws below the mount, and run screws from the front through the speed holes on the housing. Strip anodizing off a big boy servo horn, and clear it.
Be careful on bolt length going into the internal bearing holders you will split them It is 3x15 thru the aluminum bracket
More blue, less klickey!
If the clicky is coming from the pins or clips, maybe so-- because they appear to have completely missed all the gear teeth.
Maybe tomorrow will be Truckin' Thursday.
Need an RC boat!
I would of thought the length you cut off of the standoffs would also be the distance you move the hole for the pin?🤷
I would seem so, but I feel like I cut more off of the standoffs than the top shaft, which shouldn't be a thing. The length of the standoffs (IMO) isn't as critical as the placement of the pin hole for the top gear, so I was definitely treating it as it's own thing.
I reckon you could a: probably make a bracket easy enough, and b: get away without it..
I made my own bta mount and its been fine with just 2 screws
Susan needs an outtunner.
100.00 American? Unfortunately even more in Canada
make that bracket - it gives it support - but i am sure you can fabricate something
Maybe you need a boat
Don't bash Vanquish when your not informed guy.
Ha. Aha. Aha ha ha. AH HA HA! AHAHAHAHHAHAHA!!! . Thanks, I needed that. This moves up into the lofty echelons of comments made by "persons without clue." Well done.
My VRD has been complete for months. Vanquish has said so, so has Josh you don't need the bracket. They are not trying to make you buy more than you need.@@CrawlerCanyon
I hope you are having a good time!
Your content is very good and you have a good amount of subscribers. But your video optimization section area is not correct, Out of 100 that’s score 10. That’s why your video is not reaching more and more people. As the views increase, so will the benefit. I think your UA-cam channel will make your dream come true.
I'm a certified UA-cam SEO expert with a passion for optimizing and a UA-cam channel manager.
Can I help promote your channel?