I took the starter off to get to the flywheel, which is connected directly to the crankshaft has holes on it which line up with holes on the engine block this helps to set and lock the engine to top dead centre (TDC) You could just use the paint marks technique but i find this way handier it doesn't really take very long to unbolt the starter.
You can try marking the belt and sprockets positions with tippex, but personally i prefer to lock the flywheel, the starter is not hard to remove, the wee bit of extra time locking the flywheel is well spent in my opinion. As for the removal of the crankshaft pulley, try and loosen it off with and impact wrench before locking the flywheel, the locking bolt in the flywheel could snap when undoing the pulley bolt which is not good.
An acetylene torch or Stihl saw :) Only joking, open the drivers door, down on the A pillar beside the accelerator pedal there is a handle, pull it back and the bonnet will pop up.
Thanks for the comment Yip its a fairly ackward place to lock the crankshaft, id seen pictures of it being locked but it still took a while to figure it out.
It is a good video and well done! A metal implement jammed in flywheel ring gear stops you putting pressure on your locking pins when undoing crank pulley bolt.
I have no videos dealing with the effects of a broken timing belt, and i dont see any on youtube for the 406, possibly other cars are available but your best bet is to buy a haynes manual for the 406. If the belt has snapped the valves may also be bent or broken so taking the head off and checking their condition would be important.
Muchas gracias, me fue de mucha ayuda tu video. Saludos desde Buenos Aires, Argentina!!! Thank you very much, your video was very helpful. Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina!!!
pulley OK, no rattling. i filmed the noise, but then managed to find that one /watch?v=RwjGfJEmBwo which has exact noise. engine already ran to full heat, to engage blower fan, also a short ride for coolant top up. Everything else is fine. Prior to that, turned engine numerous times, holes did match, even though i decided to do belt change it with correction fluid only, i removed the starter afterwards.
Absolutely no need to remove starter. Unless like You, the mechanic doesnt have a pit (or a lifter, but thats usually a dream in our home based garages) garage. But still, I could do and done that many times just by lying under, avoiding starter removal, which is a bit of pain for me, I just dont like that part. The same for good oldies XUD7/9/11 engines, as the block of first DWs (DW8, and DW10 - 66kw and 80kw) are not that different from XUDs. You just need a L form bended bar of 8mm and a torch or lamp to see from under the car, where the hole is. Sometimes it takes few minutes to see it or if its not possible - to find it manually, just stabbing the place around where it should be, but it saves a good half ant hour of total work, sometimes more. I often use 7mm or even 6mm bar or just steel wire, because its not that accurate in these engines as it is far from the actual Crankshaft center, so its not that easy to miss one tooth by using a wrong diameter bar. What I also usually do is changing the camshaft oil seal as I dont know why, but it tends to get hard as a bone, start leaking and even brake its rubber much more common than a lower (crankshaft) seal.
Its not really that bad at all, as timing belts go this is one of the easier ones to change, on some Audis you have to take the front end off, on some Alfas you might have to take the engine out, to access the timing belt. The only hard bit is getting the tension right. Apart from the elusive SEEM unit machine the haynes manual wants you to use to set the tension (most mechanics ive asked just set the tension by feel) a set of ordinary tools will get this job done.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I'm glad you answering ;) Could you tell me how to remove camshaft sprocket? Is it just push fitted like this on crankshaft? Am I have to use puller?
@@maovi7652 Hi there, It is held in place with the bolt, the camshaft has an indent which engages with a notch on the sprocket, either that or a woodruf key. A puller may be needed if some form of corrosion is present. However a small rubber hammer can be used if you are careful. The gentle taps might be enough to free it. Just ensure to use a rubber hammer not metal one as that could cause damage. I have also used pry bars, not advisable as its easy to damage the timing belt covers but if its a job your in a rush to get finished sometimes improvisation can occur.
@@maovi7652 Hi there, a rubber mallet is what i use to gently tap it off. There may not be room to get a puller in but it is the ideal way to remove it.
Merci pour votre vidéo. J'ai une 406, mais ma question est sur une 308 SVP. J'ai un kit de distribution Dayco. Le Galet-tendeur manquait l'épingle pour régler la tension. La flèche sur le galet pour augmenter la tension et d'aligner le trou dans le "slot" est dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre. Cependant la seule façon (maintenant que l'épingle est retiré) d'aligner le trou est dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre. Est-ce ça va donner la bonne tension quand-même SVP ?
Hi there You got a new timing belt kit but the new tensioner does not have a pin? An allen key can be used for that purpose, but perhaps its worth chasing up the supplier to find out why the pin was missing.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you for reply. I did chase the online supplier and the lady telephone receptionist insisted that I send the whole kit back including the water pump. I explained that I had already installed the water pump and filled the cooling system with new antifreeze to ensure that nothing leaked on the gasket of the water pump. Clearly she understood nothing of what I was talking about, and was adamant that I had to send the entire kit back to obtain any kind of refund !!! Instead I bought another tensioner from another supplier, and it worked perfectly as it should, albeit 50 euros out of pocket !!!! Many thanks.
Yip correction fluid would work fine, i just decided to show locking the flywheel to make the video more complete, its only about a few mins more work. One advantage of locking using a pin in the flywheel is that if the old belt was slack or perhaps off by a tooth then if its correctly locked when the new belt goes back on it should be correctly positioned. Thanks for your comment
Thats the tensioning technique, also turn the engine over with a ratchet a few turns to check everything is moving ok with no interference and that the alignment holes meet up again. What condition is your crankshaft pulley in?
Do you think it is absolutely necessary to lock the flywheel? it's such an extra work. Maybe just locking up the cam, than, with correction fluid, drawing a line through any cam sprocket tooth and over the old belt, and another line through crank pulley tooth over the belt. Removing old belt with two lines (market top and bottom), copying lines at exact same positions on the new belt. Mounting the new belt with copied lines to the same marked positions on the cam sprocket and crank pulley.
Hello Thank you very much for this very usful video. considering that you did the job only with one hand ( camera in the other hand ). You are great and uniqe. Excuse me if my english not good. Best regards🙏🙏
My pug 406 2.0i does have a hole in the crankshaftpulley, is it necessary to lock the crankshaftpulley in place, when changing the timingbelt? And is it better to remove the crankshaftpulley before locking the camshaft in place?
You'd be best getting a haynes manual to help you with this process, especially when setting the torque of the various bolts. Ive never had to deal with a snapped timing belt so cant really describe whats involved in repairing the damage.
I know this is a very old video but I've just purchased another 406 hdi110 estate as I really like the way they drive and the look of them couldn't fault my old 620000 mile executive but I've just noticed power steering fluid dropping under the car are the steering racks known to leak or is there a common fix thanks
Luke Cowell The steering racks with very high miles can leak, its the seals in them. The rack needs the subframe dropped. Not too sure how exactly to change the seals or if they are available
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the reply so it's a replacement rack then I mean the cars only done 140k which in my experience I'd nothing for a 406 hdi
@@lukecowell7516 I dont have a video specifically covering the rack replacement. However there is a video showing the clutch and dual mass flywheel being replaced. Once the subframe is off you have the rack sitting ready to come out, just disconnect the lines and universal joint from the steering column. It might not mean a new rack, there could be parts available have you had any luck searching for them?
Thanks. I have an 307, but the RHS 2.0 HDI Engine is to in Citrióen C5 etc.The Valves are Ok, but the Camshaft has damages. Whats the right way ? First, i turn the Crankshaft to OT ? Then i repair my Rockers and Camshaft, turn the Camshaft to OT too ?
I have a Peugeot 407 1.6 HDI, and I had my timing belt changed at 60K. But the Peugeot dealer has stated that the timing belt does not require changing until the car has done 160K, and they advised me to forget about it as I was wasting my money. The dealer stated that they are not aware of a timing belt ever having snapped on a 407.
Im not sure on the service interval of the 407 especially as the 1.6 HDi DV6 is a completely different engine from the 2.0 DW10 engine. However changing the timing belt before it is due can't do it any harm, its worth checking on a forum for advice on when you should change the belt.
Could you give some more details about the sizes of the Timing belt tension adjusting tool that you made. Once I start taking the car part I won't be able to make a quick visit to an iron shop.
I did not make or use any tensioning tool, when tensioning this belt i tensioned it by feel. That does take a bit of experience with regards knowing how the belt should feel, the guide on 406oc describes how to tension the belt without any special tools but again that depends quite a lot on feeling the tension in the belt.
peugeotCitroen2CV Sorry! I wasn't clear. In the link to www.406oc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?... that you give above you describe the tool that I am referring to as follows: "Special tools: Timing belt tension adjusting tool: FREE, I made this up at work myself from a length of scrap alloy. You can get square bar from B&Q that should fit the tensioner, just take your tensioner pulley along to get a good fit." I think you use it 12.52 minutes into the video.
mozzarellajunky Ah that tool, thats what i used to turn the tensioner, the tensioner has a square hole and something square is used to turn it, normally a bit of the square bar used for household interior doors (that connects the handle to the mechanism) can be used, but in this video i have this which is one out of a set of 5 oil drain plug keys: www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-1580-Drain-Plug-Key/dp/B003AN3S12
I have to say your vids knock Haynes manuals into a cocked hat. I compared methods and Haynes give no option but to obtain a SEEMS unit to achieve correct tension of the new belt. Plenty of advice on this on the forums - I used the adjust til the bearing can be just turned by hand method - seemed as tight as the old belt was. Oh well, time will tell. It's on its third belt at 185 k on the clock anyway so that's good enough for me. Top tip: put the old crank oil seal between the new one and the crank sprocket then tap it in - the seal will not fit perfectly flush otherwise. Don't know if this matters but it came out flush so thats how I wanted it back in. Also, I did not have a problem finding the crank locking hole but failed to find the starter ring hole so I tippexed the crank sprocket and starter ring teeth. When I cranked twice they didn't align. CRAP!!!! I eventually managed to lock the crank by getting my 13 yr old to crank while I put finger pressure on the locking pin til it came round and bingo! In it went. Tensioning was not as straightforward as I had hoped. As soon as I pulled the pins out after tensioning it went slack - I just re tensioned without the pins, cranked, checked the holes, all seemed hunky dory, put the bugger back together, fired her up and job done. Drives as before, all in order. I owe you serious beer tokens dude! I cannot thank you enough for taking the time to meticulously show the process. The last belt and water pump job 90k ago cost me four hundred nicker. This time: under £70. All thanks to you.
Hi thanks for your suggestions. The SEEMS machine, a bit of a nuisance, to be honest, a unique unit of measurement to PSA. I did manage to find a used SEEMs machine through an owners club and a conversion table going to more conventional metric units. However it merely confirms how close hand tight really is, I think if someone has never done a timing belt before then its hard to judge how tight they should be. That's great to hear how much you saved by doing it yourself, hope the car is running well and continues to do so for a good long length of time.
Haynes may be old hat stuff ( Recently departed us I believe), but in an age, before UA-cam it's all we had. in a way, he was the father of DIY auto repair blogs.
Thank you for this great video. But i have a question: How is the correct tension for the Belt. In the video, you wrote about a link but i can't find it! And whitch kind of tool do you use to turn the tension-pully?
The link is still there in the description and working its for a 406oc thread The tension setting is something i tend to do by feel and its hard to describe that, after doing a few its possible to judge how the belt should feel. its a bit of a nuisance when some cars have automatic spring tensioners. As for the tool for the tensioner they are available on ebay but is essentially just the square bar used in a household door handle welded to a length of flat.
great video i didn't realize you don't have to lock up the pump in an hdi as the injection is timed via the ECU have been putting of doing the belt but might get into it now as have had the car 2 years and the only proof i have that the belt was done is someone wrote belt changed at and the ?milage so no proof at all really LOL Thanks again GREAT VIDEO
peugeotCitroen2CV Hi It's a Peugeot Expert, The engine is almost under the dashboard so not a lot of room to work on it under the bonnet. I take it when the right hand wheel is removed there might be a bit more access. It has 249k kms on the clock and the last time it was done was at 179k kms. I am just looking at buying a set of locking pins on ebay. Thanks Steve
Officially peugeot recommend that a SEEM tension gague is used to tension these belts, i bought one at an autojumble a few years ago but never really use it. SEEMs were a propriatry unit of measurement used by PSA and i know of no 406 mechanics who use one. Its possible to just set the tension by feel which has worked on any 406 i have ever changed a timing belt on. I would recommend feeling the old belt before taking it off to feel how it is, place a straight edge on the belt and press down to see how much it deflects or try and see how much the belt will twist with your fingers. It shouldnt twist any more than a quarter turn use the old belt to judge how tight the new one should be.
I have to replace the timing belt on a mitsubishi outlander( year of make 2008) , 2,2 hdi engine (4HN engine code) and i have the instructions (autodata if you're familiar with it) but they seem to apply more to this engine than to the 2.2 . The main issue is that behind the starter engine there is no hole to put a bolt through, and there's no reference mark on the flywheel. Whenever i set the camshaft in place, i won't find any reference below on the flywheel. Do you have any experience on that engine?
Ive never worked on that engine unfortunately, I've seen autodata a few times the local motor factors have it but i personally do not have it. Is the 4HN engine the 2.2 DW12 that peugeot supplies, i havent worked on a DW12 but i think its similar to the DW10. Its possible to simply mark the location of the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets before removing the belt, but with these more complex modern diesels especially if its a twin camshaft setup you would need to be sure to find out the correct information regarding the procedure for changing the belt.
On the older XUD it needs to be timed up right, but not on the HDi engines the ECU deals with the timing of the fuel the pump just needs to be turned by the belt Are you having this problem on its own, or after working with the timing belt?
I am trying to find out which parts I need to buy to change my timing belt. On Peugeot Service Box for my car two sets of timing belt kits are listed. One kit has the extra description "AND AGE >= 5". Do you know how to interpret that?
mozzarellajunky Im not sure what this refers to, did you use the vin number on servicebox or just search for the car using the drop down menus, usually the parts returned after entering the vin are correct for that specification of car.
peugeotCitroen2CV I used the vin number. I also looked at different web-shops to see which set they recommend and the shops are not in agreement. In the meantime the problem is solved. I asked Gates for advice and they told me which set I need. Nevertheless I would like to know what this "AND AGE >=5" thing means, because it pops up with a lot of parts for my car (a 2004 Peugeot Expert Fourgon (222) 2.0 HDI 8 valve DW10BTED W4) and makes it hard to choose the correct part. So, if another reader knows the answer ....
mozzarellajunky Im really not sure what the and age thing means, the best bet would be to get the belt out of a local motor factors, and when removing the old one count the number of teeth, count them on the new one and compare the lengths (the old one may be slightly stretched) if the new belt is completely different go back to the motorfactors and change it for the other type.
The belt snapped on mine this week. Having read into it everyone was saying the valves never bend, its always the rocker arms. I took the cover of to find broken rocker arms. I replaced them and put a new belt on using this method. It starts fine but its noticably down on power, especially off boost. Is there a chance of damaged valves? Not sure what else could be the issue.
Robert Evans Ive never had a belt snap on me so i cant say from first hand experience what will happen, i assumed that it would cause some damage to the valves, perhaps not snapping but bending may occur. Go onto 406oc and post the question in the engine/gearbox section, it has happened to a few members on there.
I did not change the crankshaft pulley at the same time as the timing belt, i changed it a few months before the timing belt, it had worn out and was causing the clattery noise associated with their failure, i made a video on the crankshaft pulley replacement.
I am planning the change of the timing belt on my 2004 Peugeot Expert which has a 2.0 HDi (DW10BTED W4) engine. Do you happen to know if there are any significant difference between this engine and yours that I should be aware of?
I think that the DW10BTED is the 16v version of this engine, its the same one thats used in the 407, does the engine cover say "HDI 16" Im not sure if there are any significant differences, if its a 16v single cam setup then it should be similar to the 8v engine. Peugeot forums would be the best place to find out about the belt change procedure.
peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for your answer. I couldn't find anything in my documentation about the number of valves and not on the engine cover either since the expert doesn't have one. I'll check out the peugeot forums.
The 2.1 XUD engine in the phase 1 i am not sure as i have never worked on one of those engines or ever had a car with it. Best to ask on the 406 owners club. The 2.2 HDi engine is similar although you lock the flywheel on it at the back of the engine.
Thanks for video I have a question xu9 1905 cc and xu5 1580 cc engine has the same block cylinder??? If it is similar I can modify xu5 to xu9 and change crankshaft
Hi, The older XUs were all very similar externally. I have an XU5 and XU9 in my two 305's However im not 100% sure what parts were interchangeable i think it was the stroke that changed on the XU9 but ive never rebuilt one to be able to say if the crankshafts can be swapped.
Thanks for the reply .... so true the two engines are so similar in the diameter of the piston ..... The XU5 (1580 cc), with a bore of 83 mm And stroke of 73 mm vs xu9 (1905cc ) with same bore 83mm and stroke 88 mm . Just the difference in stroke
well, mine is a 1.9 TD (xud 9 engine) one of the reasons why this is a good video is because the belt is replaced while the engine is still in the car. this is more manageable for people who are not pro's at workng on cars
Ah yes the XUD and HDi are almost identical, other than the importance of keeping the fuel pump in time. No need to take the engine out to do the belt on an XUD. I have a video of an XUD belt out of the 305 just as it gives the job from a different perspective.
Nice video thanks. ;-) changed my timing belt (HDI) some time ago but always nice to see how others do it. ;-) btw "Open the bonnet" that's a good start LOL Keep up the good work :-)
Thanks, ahy open the bonnet, someone i recall actually asked how to open the bonnet, i think if that poses enough of a challenge leave the job to someone else haha.
Why in belt area so many oil? How do You think - Is this bad for the belt if some part of oil going to belt surfac??? I have the same problem on my 406
+Lokky55 The reason for the oil on this car was the crankshaft oil seal was leaking a bit, the replacement is shown in this video, its not good for the belt oil degrades rubber components so if you have a leak its best to change the seal.
Unfortunately fo me friend I replaced this crankshaft and 2 crankshafts in top - it was not help - I cannot detect exactly the place where this oil going from =(
Thanks for all your video. I did a lot myself after all inspiration from you. But for this video can work out the petrol engine ( EW10J4 - L4) ?? Thanks again.
bobip The petrol 406 is very rare over here, most people i know drives diesels so i have not had the opportunity to work on or drive a petrol model, although it is something if i could buy cheap i would, an EW10 engine transplant is something i have considered for the 305. A haynes manual would be the best thing to get for your engine, is it an 8v or 16v twin cam engine
Fani Emmery I cant remember exactly what they were i just have a cheap set of drill bits does this job nicely, i think the camshaft one was 8mm, the auxilary belt tensioner was held in place with either an allen key or one of them screws used to hold the plug socket up against the wall. Sorry i dont have any specific numbers.
Some older cars had a non interference engine, so when the belt snapped the car just stopped, it was only a case of setting everything to TDC and putting the new belt on. Newer cars have interference issues so bent valves are most likely to happen as a result of a snapped belt. The 406 isn't the hardest belt to change there are harder cars to work on.
peugeotCitroen2CV Just bought one - with a seized solid alternator. (owner thought the engine was hydraulically locked!) After cutting off the drive belt, I had extreme difficulty getting the new auxiliary belt on. Is the spring tensioner moveable by hand? It seems locked on full extension to me - which might explain the demolished alternator, perhaps? And why is there also another (ball/roller bearing) tensioner wheel on the belt? I slackened it right off with an allen key - but it was still a stretch to get the belt over - which is worrying. You do a great job for a bloke with one arm, by the way. ( ;
Hi my clima compressor is broken but l do not use it since l have mounted bigger intercooler l need help to find pkk belt for my 2002 20hdi rhw without ac compressor could you help? any clue?
I don't think peugeot sold many HDI's without air conditioning, some of the very basic L models did without climate control but i think they still had air con. However there are other cars out there with the DW10 engine and possibly no AC pump the berlingo/partner, 306, xsara, and 206 spring to mind. Im not 100% sure but there are probably versions of them cars that came without AC. If thats the case perhaps a motor factors can sell an auxiliary belt for them cars. However its something that might require a bit of research 406oc is the best place to go for advice on this .
Alfonso Gomezrico is it a 2.0 HDi or different engine? Its best to get yourself a timing belt kit which includes the new tensioners and water pump and change them at the same time, and if there is an oil leak in the area a new crankshaft oil seal is worth changing. -----¿es un HDi 2.0 o diferente del motor ? Lo mejor es conseguirse un kit de correa de distribución que incluye los nuevos tensores y bomba de agua y cambiarlos al mismo tiempo, y si hay una fuga de aceite en la zona un nuevo retén del cigüeñal la pena cambiar .
Thanks again for this video. I did this job today and even tho I was unable to pry off the crankshaft sprocket.. (how did you pry it out so easily?) I even managed to chip off from the flat edge with a screwdriver -_- ..everything else was huge success.. car still running with new timing belt and water pump :D
Thanks for the comment, glad to hear the video helped. With regards the crankshaft sprocket sometimes they need rocked from side to side to free them off, or else tapped a bit with a rubber mallet to break the bond of any corrosion that may have formed.
Hi Never really done it on a DW10, generally they are a fairly bulletproof engine unless its been run dry on oil i don't think they have issues with camshaft wear. In general though you take the timing belt off and your not far away, sprocket, valve cover, and retainers thats about it. I would advise getting the Haynes manual for the 406 (or whatever car this relates to) and following its guide, with something like the camshaft pay attention to details on what to torque various bolts to and the sequence to tighten them in.
I have never worked on the 1.8 or 2.0 petrol engines However the engine regardless of what it is is generally put to top dead centre, locking pins are installed and then the belt is removed.
Officially you need to use a SEEM gague, however finding them is not particularly easy. I have one bought from a retired citroen mechanic but they come up very infrequently for sale. I have also only used it once. Any time I've done a belt ive set the tension by feel. Feel the old belt for a reference to give yourself an idea of how tight the belt should be. Set a ruler across the span between the crankshaft pulley and fuel pump pulley and push down on the old belt. That amount of movement is what you want. When the new belt is on you should be able to twist it but no more than 45 degrees.
I think the scudo got the DW10 engine at some time in its production, its the same van as the citroen dispatch or peugeot expert Depending on the year of the van older ones had the XUD engine, some had the DW10 8v HDi and i think the newer ones have a 16v HDi engine
Por favor tengo un Peugeot 406 y necesito saber cómo sangrar el radiador soy de República Dominicana o cómo purgar el rallador muchas gracias pase buen día
The starter comes off to provide access to this hole, i think you can just about get the bolt in with the starter still in place but here for the purposes of making it clearer for the viewer it was removed.
I havent done it on a C5 but yes the 2.0 C5 got the same engine so the process should be mostly the same, other than the odd bits of different trim in the wheelarch liner its the same job.
Jonathan Agius Ok, i had a look on peugeot service box, using my vin number to find the timing belt that will suit the engine in this car it is a 141 tooth belt. But obviously still check your old belt against the new one when fitting it.
Did everything, belts, pump, coolant, thermostat. Got strange running noise. Searched through videos.its the timing belt. Too tight, even though can twist 90° but I dint fully understand the tightening technique in the link desciption (406.co..). To sum it up, press gently the cam bolt toward left, to tighten the longest run belt. If in that position you can turn the manual tensioner wheel by hand, it is OK. If you cant turn it - too tight, and if it turns too easy, its to slack.
I had no proof when i bought the car that the timing belt had been changed, as it was getting near the mileage that it needed to be changed. As for the crankshaft pulley i just changed it as the car started making a noise, i don't know if it had been changed in the past.
Este video es un fraude este tio no enseña nada solo se le ve apretar tornillos pero no explica nada ¿¿ademas para que quita tanta cosa si solo con levantar el motor ya se hace el cambio QUITA EL FILTRO DEL AIRE QUITA TORNILOOS DEL MOTOR DE ARRANQUE NO SE LE VE CALRA EL MOTOR EN FIN QUE NOS HA TOMADO POR TONTOS Y ENCIMA EN INGLES.
Tomás Juan Gil Grimaldos Tomás Juan Gil Grimaldos If this video was no good then please explain how there are comments below saying how it helped people. How much explanation do you need??? This is changing a timing belt not doing a quadratic equation, i feel that i have sufficiently covered the process of replacing the belt. Constructive criticism is useful, however simply calling the video a fraud is not useful.
This video is better than a haynes manual. I do all my own work on my hdi berlingo and the detail of this video is priceless...top marks to you.
I took the starter off to get to the flywheel, which is connected directly to the crankshaft has holes on it which line up with holes on the engine block this helps to set and lock the engine to top dead centre (TDC) You could just use the paint marks technique but i find this way handier it doesn't really take very long to unbolt the starter.
this is just what EVERY pug owner needs to see, thanks SO much
You can try marking the belt and sprockets positions with tippex, but personally i prefer to lock the flywheel, the starter is not hard to remove, the wee bit of extra time locking the flywheel is well spent in my opinion.
As for the removal of the crankshaft pulley, try and loosen it off with and impact wrench before locking the flywheel, the locking bolt in the flywheel could snap when undoing the pulley bolt which is not good.
An acetylene torch or Stihl saw :)
Only joking, open the drivers door, down on the A pillar beside the accelerator pedal there is a handle, pull it back and the bonnet will pop up.
Thanks for the comment
Yip its a fairly ackward place to lock the crankshaft, id seen pictures of it being locked but it still took a while to figure it out.
i realy appreciate this youtube videos, i recently changed my timing belt but i am not sure it was properly fixed
Muchas gracias por la respuesta, se me hace correcta. Gracias maestros.Felicidades
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I could never find timing hole for crankshaft but now I know where they have hidden it.
It is a good video and well done! A metal implement jammed in flywheel ring gear stops you putting pressure on your locking pins when undoing crank pulley bolt.
do you not have to lock the fuel pump ??
Not on a HDI the injectors are actuated by signals from the ECU rather than a sequence dictated by the pump.
Кем бы ты ни был, чувак, огромное тебе человеческое СПАСИБО! :)
Thanks for the comment
Not on the HDi engine, the fuel pump isn't timed the ECU controls the fuel delivery.
I have no videos dealing with the effects of a broken timing belt, and i dont see any on youtube for the 406, possibly other cars are available but your best bet is to buy a haynes manual for the 406. If the belt has snapped the valves may also be bent or broken so taking the head off and checking their condition would be important.
Muchas gracias, me fue de mucha ayuda tu video. Saludos desde Buenos Aires, Argentina!!!
Thank you very much, your video was very helpful. Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina!!!
Thanks for the comment and greetings from Ireland!
pulley OK, no rattling. i filmed the noise, but then managed to find that one /watch?v=RwjGfJEmBwo which has exact noise.
engine already ran to full heat, to engage blower fan, also a short ride for coolant top up. Everything else is fine.
Prior to that, turned engine numerous times, holes did match, even though i decided to do belt change it with correction fluid only, i removed the starter afterwards.
Absolutely no need to remove starter. Unless like You, the mechanic doesnt have a pit (or a lifter, but thats usually a dream in our home based garages) garage. But still, I could do and done that many times just by lying under, avoiding starter removal, which is a bit of pain for me, I just dont like that part.
The same for good oldies XUD7/9/11 engines, as the block of first DWs (DW8, and DW10 - 66kw and 80kw) are not that different from XUDs.
You just need a L form bended bar of 8mm and a torch or lamp to see from under the car, where the hole is. Sometimes it takes few minutes to see it or if its not possible - to find it manually, just stabbing the place around where it should be, but it saves a good half ant hour of total work, sometimes more.
I often use 7mm or even 6mm bar or just steel wire, because its not that accurate in these engines as it is far from the actual Crankshaft center, so its not that easy to miss one tooth by using a wrong diameter bar.
What I also usually do is changing the camshaft oil seal as I dont know why, but it tends to get hard as a bone, start leaking and even brake its rubber much more common than a lower (crankshaft) seal.
Its not really that bad at all, as timing belts go this is one of the easier ones to change, on some Audis you have to take the front end off, on some Alfas you might have to take the engine out, to access the timing belt. The only hard bit is getting the tension right. Apart from the elusive SEEM unit machine the haynes manual wants you to use to set the tension (most mechanics ive asked just set the tension by feel) a set of ordinary tools will get this job done.
Good,fast,simple and practically explanation.Thanks!
Thanks for the comment
Very helpful thank you
Thanks for the comment
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I'm glad you answering ;)
Could you tell me how to remove camshaft sprocket? Is it just push fitted like this on crankshaft? Am I have to use puller?
@@maovi7652 Hi there,
It is held in place with the bolt, the camshaft has an indent which engages with a notch on the sprocket, either that or a woodruf key.
A puller may be needed if some form of corrosion is present. However a small rubber hammer can be used if you are careful. The gentle taps might be enough to free it. Just ensure to use a rubber hammer not metal one as that could cause damage.
I have also used pry bars, not advisable as its easy to damage the timing belt covers but if its a job your in a rush to get finished sometimes improvisation can occur.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you for your advice. I really appreciate your help. Good luck with improvements of your channel.
@@maovi7652 Hi there, a rubber mallet is what i use to gently tap it off. There may not be room to get a puller in but it is the ideal way to remove it.
Merci pour votre vidéo. J'ai une 406, mais ma question est sur une 308 SVP. J'ai un kit de distribution Dayco. Le Galet-tendeur manquait l'épingle pour régler la tension. La flèche sur le galet pour augmenter la tension et d'aligner le trou dans le "slot" est dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre. Cependant la seule façon (maintenant que l'épingle est retiré) d'aligner le trou est dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre. Est-ce ça va donner la bonne tension quand-même SVP ?
Hi there
You got a new timing belt kit but the new tensioner does not have a pin?
An allen key can be used for that purpose, but perhaps its worth chasing up the supplier to find out why the pin was missing.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you for reply. I did chase the online supplier and the lady telephone receptionist insisted that I send the whole kit back including the water pump. I explained that I had already installed the water pump and filled the cooling system with new antifreeze to ensure that nothing leaked on the gasket of the water pump. Clearly she understood nothing of what I was talking about, and was adamant that I had to send the entire kit back to obtain any kind of refund !!! Instead I bought another tensioner from another supplier, and it worked perfectly as it should, albeit 50 euros out of pocket !!!! Many thanks.
Yip correction fluid would work fine, i just decided to show locking the flywheel to make the video more complete, its only about a few mins more work.
One advantage of locking using a pin in the flywheel is that if the old belt was slack or perhaps off by a tooth then if its correctly locked when the new belt goes back on it should be correctly positioned.
Thanks for your comment
if you have right tool you dont have to remove starter motor. i did that to my own 2.0 hdi 406 few months a go
Does the tool just slip in behind the starter motor?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV yes. You dont have to remove anything for doing that. But the hole is hard to find with out small mirror.
Thats the tensioning technique, also turn the engine over with a ratchet a few turns to check everything is moving ok with no interference and that the alignment holes meet up again.
What condition is your crankshaft pulley in?
Hi - I can´t finde the method how to properly set the timnigbelt tension...
Thanks for the comment.
Do you think it is absolutely necessary to lock the flywheel? it's such an extra work.
Maybe just locking up the cam, than, with correction fluid, drawing a line through any cam sprocket tooth and over the old belt, and another line through crank pulley tooth over the belt.
Removing old belt with two lines (market top and bottom), copying lines at exact same positions on the new belt.
Mounting the new belt with copied lines to the same marked positions on the cam sprocket and crank pulley.
Hello
Thank you very much for this very usful video.
considering that you did the job only with one hand ( camera in the other hand ).
You are great and uniqe.
Excuse me if my english not good.
Best regards🙏🙏
Hi thanks for the comment,
unfortunatley at the time i had no tripod or particularly good camera but glad you were able to follow the video
Gracias me sirvió para mi peugeot 406 nafta donde cambie todo.-
My pug 406 2.0i does have a hole in the crankshaftpulley, is it necessary to lock the crankshaftpulley in place, when changing the timingbelt? And is it better to remove the crankshaftpulley before locking the camshaft in place?
hello , just a simple question , why did touch at your starter moter I don t think it matter for changing the timing belt ?
Very good work and video. Thank you. Greetings from Buenos Aires Argentina!!!
العغتت
You'd be best getting a haynes manual to help you with this process, especially when setting the torque of the various bolts. Ive never had to deal with a snapped timing belt so cant really describe whats involved in repairing the damage.
I know this is a very old video but I've just purchased another 406 hdi110 estate as I really like the way they drive and the look of them couldn't fault my old 620000 mile executive but I've just noticed power steering fluid dropping under the car are the steering racks known to leak or is there a common fix thanks
Luke Cowell
The steering racks with very high miles can leak, its the seals in them. The rack needs the subframe dropped. Not too sure how exactly to change the seals or if they are available
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the reply so it's a replacement rack then I mean the cars only done 140k which in my experience I'd nothing for a 406 hdi
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I dont suppose you have a 406 steering rack replacement video??
@@lukecowell7516 I dont have a video specifically covering the rack replacement. However there is a video showing the clutch and dual mass flywheel being replaced. Once the subframe is off you have the rack sitting ready to come out, just disconnect the lines and universal joint from the steering column.
It might not mean a new rack, there could be parts available have you had any luck searching for them?
Thanks. I have an 307, but the RHS 2.0 HDI Engine is to in Citrióen C5 etc.The Valves are Ok, but the Camshaft has damages.
Whats the right way ? First, i turn the Crankshaft to OT ? Then i repair my Rockers and Camshaft, turn the Camshaft to OT too ?
Its not a quick job, but 8 hours isnt too bad. its better to take your time and get it right than to rush it and make mistakes.
Is it necessary to lock the high pressure diesel pump during timing belt replacement ? I know its necessary in TD engines but what about HDi ?
I have a Peugeot 407 1.6 HDI, and I had my timing belt changed at 60K.
But the Peugeot dealer has stated that the timing belt does not require changing until the car has done 160K, and they advised me to forget about it as I was wasting my money.
The dealer stated that they are not aware of a timing belt ever having snapped on a 407.
Im not sure on the service interval of the 407 especially as the 1.6 HDi DV6 is a completely different engine from the 2.0 DW10 engine. However changing the timing belt before it is due can't do it any harm, its worth checking on a forum for advice on when you should change the belt.
Could you give some more details about the sizes of the Timing belt tension adjusting tool that you made. Once I start taking the car part I won't be able to make a quick visit to an iron shop.
I did not make or use any tensioning tool, when tensioning this belt i tensioned it by feel. That does take a bit of experience with regards knowing how the belt should feel, the guide on 406oc describes how to tension the belt without any special tools but again that depends quite a lot on feeling the tension in the belt.
peugeotCitroen2CV Sorry! I wasn't clear. In the link to www.406oc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?... that you give above you describe the tool that I am referring to as follows:
"Special tools: Timing belt tension adjusting tool: FREE, I made this up at work myself from a length of scrap alloy. You can get square bar from B&Q that should fit the tensioner, just take your tensioner pulley along to get a good fit."
I think you use it 12.52 minutes into the video.
mozzarellajunky Ah that tool, thats what i used to turn the tensioner, the tensioner has a square hole and something square is used to turn it, normally a bit of the square bar used for household interior doors (that connects the handle to the mechanism) can be used, but in this video i have this which is one out of a set of 5 oil drain plug keys:
www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-1580-Drain-Plug-Key/dp/B003AN3S12
Hi, do you know a Video what shows to repair the Rockers ? My Rockers are all broken (Timing Belt was to old :-) On what i have to look ?
thanks.
I have to say your vids knock Haynes manuals into a cocked hat. I compared methods and Haynes give no option but to obtain a SEEMS unit to achieve correct tension of the new belt. Plenty of advice on this on the forums - I used the adjust til the bearing can be just turned by hand method - seemed as tight as the old belt was. Oh well, time will tell. It's on its third belt at 185 k on the clock anyway so that's good enough for me.
Top tip: put the old crank oil seal between the new one and the crank sprocket then tap it in - the seal will not fit perfectly flush otherwise. Don't know if this matters but it came out flush so thats how I wanted it back in. Also, I did not have a problem finding the crank locking hole but failed to find the starter ring hole so I tippexed the crank sprocket and starter ring teeth. When I cranked twice they didn't align. CRAP!!!! I eventually managed to lock the crank by getting my 13 yr old to crank while I put finger pressure on the locking pin til it came round and bingo! In it went. Tensioning was not as straightforward as I had hoped. As soon as I pulled the pins out after tensioning it went slack - I just re tensioned without the pins, cranked, checked the holes, all seemed hunky dory, put the bugger back together, fired her up and job done. Drives as before, all in order. I owe you serious beer tokens dude! I cannot thank you enough for taking the time to meticulously show the process. The last belt and water pump job 90k ago cost me four hundred nicker. This time: under £70. All thanks to you.
Hi thanks for your suggestions.
The SEEMS machine, a bit of a nuisance, to be honest, a unique unit of measurement to PSA. I did manage to find a used SEEMs machine through an owners club and a conversion table going to more conventional metric units. However it merely confirms how close hand tight really is, I think if someone has never done a timing belt before then its hard to judge how tight they should be.
That's great to hear how much you saved by doing it yourself, hope the car is running well and continues to do so for a good long length of time.
Haynes may be old hat stuff ( Recently departed us I believe), but in an age, before UA-cam it's all we had. in a way, he was the father of DIY auto repair blogs.
Thank you for this great video. But i have a question:
How is the correct tension for the Belt. In the video, you wrote about a link but i can't find it!
And whitch kind of tool do you use to turn the tension-pully?
The link is still there in the description and working its for a 406oc thread
The tension setting is something i tend to do by feel and its hard to describe that, after doing a few its possible to judge how the belt should feel.
its a bit of a nuisance when some cars have automatic spring tensioners.
As for the tool for the tensioner they are available on ebay but is essentially just the square bar used in a household door handle welded to a length of flat.
great video i didn't realize you don't have to lock up the pump in an hdi as the injection is timed via the ECU have been putting of doing the belt but might get into it now as have had the car 2 years and the only proof i have that the belt was done is someone wrote belt changed at and the ?milage so no proof at all really LOL Thanks again GREAT VIDEO
Seems like one hell of a job. Do you think its this hard to do because Peugeot wants you to use their mechanics?
Good job, gives me a bit more confidence in replacing mine on an ex French police van.
Thanks
Steve
Very nice, what sort of van is it?
peugeotCitroen2CV Hi It's a Peugeot Expert, The engine is almost under the dashboard so not a lot of room to work on it under the bonnet. I take it when the right hand wheel is removed there might be a bit more access. It has 249k kms on the clock and the last time it was done was at 179k kms. I am just looking at buying a set of locking pins on ebay.
Thanks
Steve
How much tension is ok for a new belt? What would be the best way to tension it correctly without any special tools? Any tips?
Officially peugeot recommend that a SEEM tension gague is used to tension these belts, i bought one at an autojumble a few years ago but never really use it. SEEMs were a propriatry unit of measurement used by PSA and i know of no 406 mechanics who use one. Its possible to just set the tension by feel which has worked on any 406 i have ever changed a timing belt on. I would recommend feeling the old belt before taking it off to feel how it is, place a straight edge on the belt and press down to see how much it deflects or try and see how much the belt will twist with your fingers. It shouldnt twist any more than a quarter turn use the old belt to judge how tight the new one should be.
Good job
Thanks for the comment
I have to replace the timing belt on a mitsubishi outlander( year of make 2008) , 2,2 hdi engine (4HN engine code) and i have the instructions (autodata if you're familiar with it) but they seem to apply more to this engine than to the 2.2 . The main issue is that behind the starter engine there is no hole to put a bolt through, and there's no reference mark on the flywheel. Whenever i set the camshaft in place, i won't find any reference below on the flywheel. Do you have any experience on that engine?
Ive never worked on that engine unfortunately, I've seen autodata a few times the local motor factors have it but i personally do not have it. Is the 4HN engine the 2.2 DW12 that peugeot supplies, i havent worked on a DW12 but i think its similar to the DW10.
Its possible to simply mark the location of the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets before removing the belt, but with these more complex modern diesels especially if its a twin camshaft setup you would need to be sure to find out the correct information regarding the procedure for changing the belt.
peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you! I'll try to find the procedure for the Dw12 and see how it goes. Thanks again!
any tips on getting the car to start got a problem starting the engine ..does the diesel pump have markings at all ??
On the older XUD it needs to be timed up right, but not on the HDi engines the ECU deals with the timing of the fuel the pump just needs to be turned by the belt
Are you having this problem on its own, or after working with the timing belt?
I am trying to find out which parts I need to buy to change my timing belt. On Peugeot Service Box for my car two sets of timing belt kits are listed. One kit has the extra description "AND AGE >= 5". Do you know how to interpret that?
mozzarellajunky Im not sure what this refers to, did you use the vin number on servicebox or just search for the car using the drop down menus, usually the parts returned after entering the vin are correct for that specification of car.
peugeotCitroen2CV I used the vin number. I also looked at different web-shops to see which set they recommend and the shops are not in agreement. In the meantime the problem is solved. I asked Gates for advice and they told me which set I need. Nevertheless I would like to know what this "AND AGE >=5" thing means, because it pops up with a lot of parts for my car (a 2004 Peugeot Expert Fourgon (222) 2.0 HDI 8 valve DW10BTED W4) and makes it hard to choose the correct part. So, if another reader knows the answer ....
mozzarellajunky Im really not sure what the and age thing means, the best bet would be to get the belt out of a local motor factors, and when removing the old one count the number of teeth, count them on the new one and compare the lengths (the old one may be slightly stretched) if the new belt is completely different go back to the motorfactors and change it for the other type.
The belt snapped on mine this week. Having read into it everyone was saying the valves never bend, its always the rocker arms. I took the cover of to find broken rocker arms. I replaced them and put a new belt on using this method. It starts fine but its noticably down on power, especially off boost. Is there a chance of damaged valves? Not sure what else could be the issue.
Robert Evans Ive never had a belt snap on me so i cant say from first hand experience what will happen, i assumed that it would cause some damage to the valves, perhaps not snapping but bending may occur. Go onto 406oc and post the question in the engine/gearbox section, it has happened to a few members on there.
peugeotCitroen2CV Ok cheers for the help.
Timing could be out
did you change the cranck shaft pulley since they are 2 service item coz robber ring wears out
I did not change the crankshaft pulley at the same time as the timing belt, i changed it a few months before the timing belt, it had worn out and was causing the clattery noise associated with their failure, i made a video on the crankshaft pulley replacement.
I am planning the change of the timing belt on my 2004 Peugeot Expert which has a 2.0 HDi (DW10BTED W4) engine. Do you happen to know if there are any significant difference between this engine and yours that I should be aware of?
I think that the DW10BTED is the 16v version of this engine, its the same one thats used in the 407, does the engine cover say "HDI 16"
Im not sure if there are any significant differences, if its a 16v single cam setup then it should be similar to the 8v engine. Peugeot forums would be the best place to find out about the belt change procedure.
peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for your answer. I couldn't find anything in my documentation about the number of valves and not on the engine cover either since the expert doesn't have one. I'll check out the peugeot forums.
Is this engine different to the one in the 406 estate 4cl 2.1 because i dont see the tensioner with the spring?
The 2.1 XUD engine in the phase 1 i am not sure as i have never worked on one of those engines or ever had a car with it. Best to ask on the 406 owners club.
The 2.2 HDi engine is similar although you lock the flywheel on it at the back of the engine.
1. Open the bonnet - OH RLY ?? :)
Very good video!
ConradoAdmino It improves access ever so slightly. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for video
I have a question xu9 1905 cc and xu5 1580 cc engine has the same block cylinder??? If it is similar I can modify xu5 to xu9 and change crankshaft
Hi,
The older XUs were all very similar externally. I have an XU5 and XU9 in my two 305's
However im not 100% sure what parts were interchangeable i think it was the stroke that changed on the XU9 but ive never rebuilt one to be able to say if the crankshafts can be swapped.
Thanks for the reply .... so true the two engines are so similar in the diameter of the piston ..... The XU5 (1580 cc), with a bore of 83 mm
And stroke of 73 mm vs xu9 (1905cc ) with same bore 83mm and stroke 88 mm . Just the difference in stroke
obrigado tenho uma expert 2.0 hdi ,o motor é igual,foi-me muito util,cumprimentos
Hi, yes they also got the same engine, it should be handy enough to change on the expert.
thank you for this video, it's almost the same for my fiat ducato
Great to hear, i see on Wikipedia there were Ducato's that used the HDi 110 engine
well, mine is a 1.9 TD (xud 9 engine)
one of the reasons why this is a good video is because the belt is replaced while the engine is still in the car. this is more manageable for people who are not pro's at workng on cars
Ah yes the XUD and HDi are almost identical, other than the importance of keeping the fuel pump in time.
No need to take the engine out to do the belt on an XUD. I have a video of an XUD belt out of the 305 just as it gives the job from a different perspective.
Nice video thanks. ;-) changed my timing belt (HDI) some time ago but always nice to see how others do it. ;-)
btw "Open the bonnet" that's a good start LOL
Keep up the good work :-)
Thanks, ahy open the bonnet, someone i recall actually asked how to open the bonnet, i think if that poses enough of a challenge leave the job to someone else haha.
Why in belt area so many oil? How do You think - Is this bad for the belt if some part of oil going to belt surfac??? I have the same problem on my 406
+Lokky55 The reason for the oil on this car was the crankshaft oil seal was leaking a bit, the replacement is shown in this video, its not good for the belt oil degrades rubber components so if you have a leak its best to change the seal.
Unfortunately fo me friend I replaced this crankshaft and 2 crankshafts in top - it was not help - I cannot detect exactly the place where this oil going from =(
Thanks for all your video. I did a lot myself after all inspiration from you. But for this video can work out the petrol engine ( EW10J4 - L4) ?? Thanks again.
bobip The petrol 406 is very rare over here, most people i know drives diesels so i have not had the opportunity to work on or drive a petrol model, although it is something if i could buy cheap i would, an EW10 engine transplant is something i have considered for the 305. A haynes manual would be the best thing to get for your engine, is it an 8v or 16v twin cam engine
peugeotCitroen2CV
It is 16v twin cam .
bobip วบ
how much mm is the pin that holds the auxilary belt tensioner? and what king of key (mm) to turn the bolt? thanks.
Fani Emmery I cant remember exactly what they were i just have a cheap set of drill bits does this job nicely, i think the camshaft one was 8mm, the auxilary belt tensioner was held in place with either an allen key or one of them screws used to hold the plug socket up against the wall. Sorry i dont have any specific numbers.
i have a weird noise in my c5 2.0 hdi. is it cuz of the belt is to tight
OMG I had an RAC chap change a timing belt that had snapped on my Ford Granada by the side of the road in 30 minutes ..... we have gone backwards
Some older cars had a non interference engine, so when the belt snapped the car just stopped, it was only a case of setting everything to TDC and putting the new belt on. Newer cars have interference issues so bent valves are most likely to happen as a result of a snapped belt. The 406 isn't the hardest belt to change there are harder cars to work on.
Hi, is this a similar engine to the Boxer/ Relay HDI vans of around 2002, please?
It should be the same engine or at least a variation of the DW10.
peugeotCitroen2CV
Just bought one - with a seized solid alternator. (owner thought the engine was hydraulically locked!) After cutting off the drive belt, I had extreme difficulty getting the new auxiliary belt on.
Is the spring tensioner moveable by hand? It seems locked on full extension to me - which might explain the demolished alternator, perhaps?
And why is there also another (ball/roller bearing) tensioner wheel on the belt? I slackened it right off with an allen key - but it was still a stretch to get the belt over - which is worrying.
You do a great job for a bloke with one arm, by the way. ( ;
Hi
my clima compressor is broken but l do not use it since l have mounted bigger intercooler
l need help to find pkk belt for my 2002 20hdi rhw without ac compressor
could you help?
any clue?
I don't think peugeot sold many HDI's without air conditioning, some of the very basic L models did without climate control but i think they still had air con. However there are other cars out there with the DW10 engine and possibly no AC pump the berlingo/partner, 306, xsara, and 206 spring to mind. Im not 100% sure but there are probably versions of them cars that came without AC. If thats the case perhaps a motor factors can sell an auxiliary belt for them cars. However its something that might require a bit of research 406oc is the best place to go for advice on this .
Tengo que cambiar la banda de tiempo, que más se tiene que cambiar. es un 406 -2003 peugeot. Más o menos cada cuando se debe de cambiar? Gracias
Alfonso Gomezrico
Alfonso Gomezrico is it a 2.0 HDi or different engine? Its best to get yourself a timing belt kit which includes the new tensioners and water pump and change them at the same time, and if there is an oil leak in the area a new crankshaft oil seal is worth changing. -----¿es un HDi 2.0 o diferente del motor ? Lo mejor es conseguirse un kit de correa de distribución que incluye los nuevos tensores y bomba de agua y cambiarlos al mismo tiempo, y si hay una fuga de aceite en la zona un nuevo retén del cigüeñal la pena cambiar .
Thanks again for this video. I did this job today and even tho I was unable to pry off the crankshaft sprocket.. (how did you pry it out so easily?) I even managed to chip off from the flat edge with a screwdriver -_- ..everything else was huge success.. car still running with new timing belt and water pump :D
Thanks for the comment, glad to hear the video helped.
With regards the crankshaft sprocket sometimes they need rocked from side to side to free them off, or else tapped a bit with a rubber mallet to break the bond of any corrosion that may have formed.
Hi, can you tell what's involved changing a camshaft please? Time taken etc.
Hi
Never really done it on a DW10, generally they are a fairly bulletproof engine unless its been run dry on oil i don't think they have issues with camshaft wear.
In general though you take the timing belt off and your not far away, sprocket, valve cover, and retainers thats about it.
I would advise getting the Haynes manual for the 406 (or whatever car this relates to) and following its guide, with something like the camshaft pay attention to details on what to torque various bolts to and the sequence to tighten them in.
En que pocision tiene que quedar del sigueñardel Peugeot 406 1.8 año 2004
I have never worked on the 1.8 or 2.0 petrol engines
However the engine regardless of what it is is generally put to top dead centre, locking pins are installed and then the belt is removed.
EXCELENT!!! Thanks you for your movie.
Thank you for a good video. Do anyone now if it lokks the same on the petrol version+
How do you know what the correct belt tension is?
Officially you need to use a SEEM gague, however finding them is not particularly easy. I have one bought from a retired citroen mechanic but they come up very infrequently for sale. I have also only used it once.
Any time I've done a belt ive set the tension by feel. Feel the old belt for a reference to give yourself an idea of how tight the belt should be. Set a ruler across the span between the crankshaft pulley and fuel pump pulley and push down on the old belt. That amount of movement is what you want. When the new belt is on you should be able to twist it but no more than 45 degrees.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you for your in-depth reply, its much appreciated!
Good video thanks man...
How does one open the bonnet? ;-))
Hi
Is this the same engine as 2.0jtd Fiat Scudo?
I think the scudo got the DW10 engine at some time in its production, its the same van as the citroen dispatch or peugeot expert
Depending on the year of the van older ones had the XUD engine, some had the DW10 8v HDi and i think the newer ones have a 16v HDi engine
Did this few years ago...due again...worst thing is the access...very little room to work....
Try it on a 206, access is a joy on the 406 by comparison.
Por favor tengo un Peugeot 406 y necesito saber cómo sangrar el radiador soy de República Dominicana o cómo purgar el rallador muchas gracias pase buen día
Hi, have a look on this channel, in the 406 playlist i have a video where i show the coolant getting flushed and refilled.
I really don't understand why it was necessary to put the starter off if u can lock the flywheel with a 8MM like u did? I got lost there.
The starter comes off to provide access to this hole, i think you can just about get the bolt in with the starter still in place but here for the purposes of making it clearer for the viewer it was removed.
same way to remove the 2001 version Citroen C5 belt？
I havent done it on a C5 but yes the 2.0 C5 got the same engine so the process should be mostly the same, other than the odd bits of different trim in the wheelarch liner its the same job.
What is the length of the belt? Is it a 141 or 146? ( teeth )
I can't remember, i just made sure that the old belt and new one were the same length when held together, and that the teeth were the same size.
is there a chance you can check for me. i was thinking it was the 141 on the new engine.
Jonathan Agius
Ok, i had a look on peugeot service box, using my vin number to find the timing belt that will suit the engine in this car it is a 141 tooth belt. But obviously still check your old belt against the new one when fitting it.
Thanks dude i really appreciate :)
Did everything, belts, pump, coolant, thermostat. Got strange running noise. Searched through videos.its the timing belt. Too tight, even though can twist 90° but I dint fully understand the tightening technique in the link desciption (406.co..).
To sum it up, press gently the cam bolt toward left, to tighten the longest run belt.
If in that position you can turn the manual tensioner wheel by hand, it is OK. If you cant turn it - too tight, and if it turns too easy, its to slack.
would'nt it be nice if there was that extra inch more space good vid
+beboploo
Always the case haha, not too bad on the 406 the 306 with the same engine is a bit more cramped
No te entendí nada porque no hablo ruso pero estan muy bien las imagenes
Nice job.
Thanks
+Luis Jimenez Thanks
Thenk you
Thanks, luckily I'm not that bad.....managed to change a headlight bulb last week.....woohoo : --))
l change mine on 120 000 km or five years
how come your spend so fast?
I had no proof when i bought the car that the timing belt had been changed, as it was getting near the mileage that it needed to be changed. As for the crankshaft pulley i just changed it as the car started making a noise, i don't know if it had been changed in the past.
peugeotCitroen2CV What kind of noise you get in order to change timing belt?
No loctite? On the bolts
Only on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Its up to yourself how much or little you want to use.
Great job!!!
Thanks u
+hh warso
no worries thanks for the comment
Excellento....
Teng tools for the win f@#k snap on
el motor de arranque lo sacaste al gas...... porque no es necesario...
brawo
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🏻
Took me 8 hours to do this job lol.
pewupeuge
Rassim Chekroun
Or Peugeot
Mdr depose du demarreur pour caler son moteur :)
0
Add a 4 and a 6 and you have 406
Este video es un fraude este tio no enseña nada solo se le ve apretar tornillos pero no explica nada ¿¿ademas para que quita tanta cosa si solo con levantar el motor ya se hace el cambio QUITA EL FILTRO DEL AIRE QUITA TORNILOOS DEL MOTOR DE ARRANQUE NO SE LE VE CALRA EL MOTOR EN FIN QUE NOS HA TOMADO POR TONTOS Y ENCIMA EN INGLES.
Tomás Juan Gil Grimaldos
Tomás Juan Gil Grimaldos
If this video was no good then please explain how there are comments below saying how it helped people.
How much explanation do you need??? This is changing a timing belt not doing a quadratic equation, i feel that i have sufficiently covered the process of replacing the belt.
Constructive criticism is useful, however simply calling the video a fraud is not useful.