Hey Andy, thank you for the information. I currently have two that give a buzzing sound then shuts off, bladed do not spin. Could it be the capacitor? I’ve swapped out the power cord in the past hoping not to have to buy a whole new one. We currently have 5.
Did you try to spin the shaft by hand ? If it really stiff and hard to move your top bearing is gone and need replacing , the capacitor it’s almost never the problem , but if your shaft spins free after you turn it on , and the unit starts after you spin it by hand it’s your capacitor for sure . , the way to test is is - take the bowl of the shaft , press the green start button and insert top of a pen without the tip on into the center pice ( black dot in the center of the unit - aka - bowl switch , while pressing down onto it spin the motor shaft by hand clockwise if the motor starts its your motor capacitor if the shaft is super stif and unit buzz off and shut off it’s your top bearing .
Hi Andy thanks for your videos. I have to fix a RS5 plus. It doesn't start. Makes some clicking noises at the plugging phase but nothing happens when I press any button. Can you help please. It is on 3 phase 380v
hey andy thank you for the videos, very informative. Have you ever replaced the safety rod on one of the bowls? i have a stainless steel bowl for the R2, but the safety rod at the bottom broke (so it doesn't engage the safety switch at the base with the lid on). everything looks welded together so not sure if it can be replaced.
It’s super easy , if your bowl is stainless - there is a little screw that holds the striking pin in place ( that only applies to the bowls that are totally stainless - no plastic handle ) Robot coupe have to version of a stainless steel bowl - one totally stainless including the handle , it’s the heavier one as well , and one that mostly stainless with a black plastic handle , in order to replace the bowl pin in the bowl that completely stainless unscrew the bottom nut (it’s the round price right on the bottom of the bowl easy to spot is round in shape , you will have to use some type of pliers to unscrew it , ones that’s done remove the existing pin and spring ,install the new pin and screw the nut back on , I’ll recommend putting a little of a rtv or food grade silicon on the treads of the nut , thigh it and that’s it . If you have the other type of bowl I’ll have to double check , i think the removal of the pin in this bowl is similar to the plastic gray and clear bowl , give me a minute to check.
@@andyscommercialequipmentre4651 hi Andy. Boy I feel silly. I have the bowl you just described. The nut is so well designed that it looked once piece! I was able to unscrew it with some pliers per your suggestion. What type of food grade silicone do you normally use?
Anything would work , I think originally they use tread lock ( loctite brand red color so the nut does not come loose , you just need a touch over the treads so it does not get loose with time of use and vibration .
Good Afternoon Andy and Happy Easter. I was wondering where you were located and if perhaps you may be able to repair my robot coupe which has been giving me issues.
Hi I opened one of them robots too changed the bearings and the rubber seal ring from the top. But I can't remember where the wires go could you help me please?
Hi, I plugged my 110V C50 into a 220V outlet (don't ask me how,, LOL) anyway the machine now only makes a humming noise when i turn it on and the shaft doesn't turn. I opened it up and everything "looks" fine and it was only plugged in for a few seconds and there was no smell of burning. What could be the issue? Thanks
I’m assuming you have a cl-50 unit not c50 , as I never heard of c50 before , if the machine is making humming noise try one thing - grab the top of the shaft and spin in it by hand , if you can’t reach it with your hand use a wooden spoon or something just to give it a spin if the motor starts and works that means your capacitor is busted and need to be replaced , other wise not sure why could be a problem without further troubleshooting it in person .
The motor is not entirely build out aluminum - top and the bottom housing pieces are aluminum with a large vent openings the center parts is made out of steel , it holds the winding that’s why , they use aluminum for to reasons - to lower the weight of the motor and two - better heat distribution to cool the motor during operation .
28:00 my guess is that the adapter plate serves to put equal pressure on the housing on all the motor surface contact area :) seems like it should really be made of metal or a different plastic though...
That’s a pickle buddy , usually r402 here in us are single phase 120v so I’m not sure how to deal with that my best guess would be a phase converter to convert it from 380v to 230v
thank you for this! HOw do you remove the shaft seal to reuse it?
Check my
Other video
It shows removal of the motor seal .
Hey Andy, thank you for the information. I currently have two that give a buzzing sound then shuts off, bladed do not spin. Could it be the capacitor? I’ve swapped out the power cord in the past hoping not to have to buy a whole new one. We currently have 5.
Did you try to spin the shaft by hand ? If it really stiff and hard to move your top bearing is gone and need replacing , the capacitor it’s almost never the problem , but if your shaft spins free after you turn it on , and the unit starts after you spin it by hand it’s your capacitor for sure . , the way to test is is - take the bowl of the shaft , press the green start button and insert top of a pen without the tip on into the center pice ( black dot in the center of the unit - aka - bowl switch , while pressing down onto it spin the motor shaft by hand clockwise if the motor starts its your motor capacitor if the shaft is super stif and unit buzz off and shut off it’s your top bearing .
Hi Andy thanks for your videos.
I have to fix a RS5 plus. It doesn't start. Makes some clicking noises at the plugging phase but nothing happens when I press any button.
Can you help please.
It is on 3 phase 380v
I never heard of that model any chance you can send me a picture of the manufacture plate and the unit it self ? Thx .
hey andy thank you for the videos, very informative. Have you ever replaced the safety rod on one of the bowls? i have a stainless steel bowl for the R2, but the safety rod at the bottom broke (so it doesn't engage the safety switch at the base with the lid on). everything looks welded together so not sure if it can be replaced.
It’s super easy , if your bowl is stainless - there is a little screw that holds the striking pin in place ( that only applies to the bowls that are totally stainless - no plastic handle ) Robot coupe have to version of a stainless steel bowl - one totally stainless including the handle , it’s the heavier one as well , and one that mostly stainless with a black plastic handle , in order to replace the bowl pin in the bowl that completely stainless unscrew the bottom nut (it’s the round price right on the bottom of the bowl easy to spot is round in shape , you will have to use some type of pliers to unscrew it , ones that’s done remove the existing pin and spring ,install the new pin and screw the nut back on , I’ll recommend putting a little of a rtv or food grade silicon on the treads of the nut , thigh it and that’s it .
If you have the other type of bowl I’ll have to double check , i think the removal of the pin in this bowl is similar to the plastic gray and clear bowl , give me a minute to check.
@@andyscommercialequipmentre4651 hi Andy. Boy I feel silly. I have the bowl you just described. The nut is so well designed that it looked once piece! I was able to unscrew it with some pliers per your suggestion. What type of food grade silicone do you normally use?
Anything would work , I think originally they use tread lock ( loctite brand red color so the nut does not come loose , you just need a touch over the treads so it does not get loose with time of use and vibration .
Good Afternoon Andy and Happy Easter. I was wondering where you were located and if perhaps you may be able to repair my robot coupe which has been giving me issues.
I’m in East bay - close to oakland ca 94612 .
Hi I opened one of them robots too changed the bearings and the rubber seal ring from the top. But I can't remember where the wires go could you help me please?
There is diagram for the wiring on line i can send you a link .
www.russellhendrix.com/images/media/Robot%20Coupe%20-%20R2N.pdf
Here is the manual for it with a wire diagram .
Hi, I plugged my 110V C50 into a 220V outlet (don't ask me how,, LOL) anyway the machine now only makes a humming noise when i turn it on and the shaft doesn't turn. I opened it up and everything "looks" fine and it was only plugged in for a few seconds and there was no smell of burning. What could be the issue? Thanks
I’m assuming you have a cl-50 unit not c50 , as I never heard of c50 before , if the machine is making humming noise try one thing - grab the top of the shaft and spin in it by hand , if you can’t reach it with your hand use a wooden spoon or something just to give it a spin if the motor starts and works that means your capacitor is busted and need to be replaced , other wise not sure why could be a problem without further troubleshooting it in person .
Im just wondering why other robot coupe has 4 wires is that 3 phase. Is there a capacitor inside?
There is a capacitor for the motor , it’s not 3 phase just your standart 110v unit .
what type of screw driver is that? standard 22 cross bit doesn't seem to be able to take out any existing screws on the bottom. Is it a star bit?
On older units it’s regular Phillips screws on new ones is the star shape bit , long shank ( 6 inches does the job)
@@andyscommercialequipmentre4651 thanks! Ended up being a T20 start bit and inside the lid are two T10 star bit screws.
can I ask you why you think the motor is made of aluminum? that's something I was curious about
The motor is not entirely build out aluminum - top and the bottom housing pieces are aluminum with a large vent openings the center parts is made out of steel , it holds the winding that’s why , they use aluminum for to reasons - to lower the weight of the motor and two - better heat distribution to cool the motor during operation .
@@andyscommercialequipmentre4651 nice thank you :)
what is the screwdriver ur using cant unscrew the bottom on mine. Please
If regular Philips screwdriver does not work use T-20 torx screwdriver .
At least 6” long shank .
What kind of screw driver do I need for this?
Older units use standart Philips screwdriver to do it newer unit you will need T20 torx screwdriver with a longer shank to do it .
28:00 my guess is that the adapter plate serves to put equal pressure on the housing on all the motor surface contact area :) seems like it should really be made of metal or a different plastic though...
Metal would more likely put to much force onto the housing itself but better plastic would defenatly do the job.
How to convert power supply 380v to 230v robot coupe food processor r402 a
That’s a pickle buddy , usually r402 here in us are single phase 120v so I’m not sure how to deal with that my best guess would be a phase converter to convert it from 380v to 230v
You just saved me 1800 dollars...was about to buy a R2 Dice...now? Not so much
I’m glad I could help .