VW T4 immobiliser and solenoid fault fix

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  • Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
  • immobiliser removal and solenoid replacement. on a vw t4
    this will also involve removing the front end of your T4, including the radiator and coolant. you will also need to remove some of the fuel lines to gain access. as well as likely to lose some power steering fluid. so please take all this into account of the cost..
    you could also put the live wire that goes onto the solenoid on a switch for added security
    This is also a good time to get them glow plugs changed whole you have access
    #vwt4

КОМЕНТАРІ • 26

  • @ceremcemaslan6818
    @ceremcemaslan6818 17 днів тому +1

    Hi! My van was cranking but not starting so after some research I thought I have the same issue. So today I did exactly what you showed here and it worked. Thank you for sharing!

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  17 днів тому +1

      @@ceremcemaslan6818 You are very welcome. I'm pleased the video has helped someone out

  • @robclinton5237
    @robclinton5237 11 місяців тому +3

    thank for shareing buddy

  • @CoreMaster111
    @CoreMaster111 11 місяців тому +1

    Interesting. I don't have starting issue but I have a problem with the VE pump. It seems to have a timing issue as it's constantly lookig for proper timing once the engine starts to warm up. I also get misfiring and at certain times it feels like it want to cut out. And oddly enough I also have an issue with my k-line connection which prevents me from using OBDII port for diagnostics as there must be a short somewhere. May have to take a look at this black box.

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  11 місяців тому

      It could well be a faulty immobiliser. I think most T4s have had them removed. They can have an intermittent issue where it won't start and sometimes will. It wouldn't course a misfire, though. As for your OBD port, depending on which model you have from my understanding, not all obd Readers work on the T4s. You would need one for a T4 only. Or get a professional to scan it.

    • @CoreMaster111
      @CoreMaster111 11 місяців тому

      @@Adventure.with.Robbie
      Mine starts fine, no issues there so immo seems fine at first glance.
      I have VCDS which should work just fine. I have VW T4 1996 7D, so the newer face lift model. But I can't communicate to any of the modules which indicates there is something wrong with k-line. Probably a faulty module or circuit.
      I have already done some diagnostics and immo seems fine as I removed and bypassed it for testing purposes. I have also ruled out instrument cluster and ABS module. From here I still need to test ECU and wiring to it but I also noticed while looking through wiring diagrams that this black box on the VE pump is also connected to k-line. Considered I have issues with VE pump and engine wanting to cut out then I'm also going to check this out. I just searched to see if anyone has experienced similar problem and I just happened to find your video mentioning immo and shut off solenoid.

  • @-UmarKhan
    @-UmarKhan 10 місяців тому +1

    Hi Robbie cracking video, I lost my T4 keys a few years back had a new key cut and the black box behind the instrument panel was "decoded" by a key guy, however the old girl never fired up, turned over really well and eventually burned the starter motor. Was thinking of doing what you have shown as a next step once ive fitted another starter. Do you think doing this step will bypass the ignition black box and send fuel to the fuel pump? The old girl been sat for a while now and really need to get it moved. Shes a 1.9tdi on a 1998. Thankyou look forward to hear from you.

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  10 місяців тому

      Go for it, mate. Absolutely worst case for you is the actual solenoid that has failed. ( common issue ) Which would mean the black box would have to be removed anyway to access that. Just be careful of the fuel pump screw when removing

    • @-UmarKhan
      @-UmarKhan 10 місяців тому +1

      @@Adventure.with.Robbie Okay Bud will give that a try , Will keep you posted , Ta

  • @Jack_Diyes
    @Jack_Diyes 8 місяців тому +1

    So on the box I see only two cables. On the green board I see three cable entrances. There is one cable sticking out of the solenoid. Do you endup with one earthing Cable going to the pump and one positive purple cable to the solenoid? That's what I understand but on the video I see you end up with ,4 cables* two and two? Could you clarify please? Thanks

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  8 місяців тому +1

      The wire you see left on the solenoid is just a cut of bit left over. There is only the two wires. One going to the pump/earthing point and the other going to the solenoid itself.

    • @Jack_Diyes
      @Jack_Diyes 8 місяців тому

      @@Adventure.with.Robbie ooh okay. I was confused because on the positive side you had a exposed cope wire ( or part of a wire ) and it looked like two.
      Doing this tomorrow morning.
      Cheers from being stranded stranded in Valencia parking lot in front of 16 Tesla chargers that destroyed my inmobizer 🤦 lol
      Also that one blue pipe with a fat screw to remove to get access to the solenoid is the fuel intake as far as I know and if you remove it it may intake some air that will have to be extracted . You didn't do this or did you?
      Big thanks

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  8 місяців тому

      I believe the fuel system is a self bleed system. I didn't have to bleed mine.
      You can also put a switch on the dash and connect that up to then two wires for extra security. Meaning when it's turned off, the engine won't start.. defiantly worth doing whole you got all the front end of. It's also ideal to do the glow plugs at the same time whole you have easy access

    • @Jack_Diyes
      @Jack_Diyes 8 місяців тому +1

      @@Adventure.with.Robbie ooh I see. Yeah manual inmobizer is definitely a must without that box in there... Otherwise a thief can be start pushed or just tap into cables lol. I'll also put in a hidden GPS.
      Thanks boss. I'll let you know if this has worked for me

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  8 місяців тому

      @Jack.D5 you have any issues. Just send us a msg. If I can help, I will do

  • @gavinp6025
    @gavinp6025 4 місяці тому +1

    Hi,is this an ABL 1.9td?I've this same problem

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  4 місяці тому

      Hi Gavin, mine is a 2.4 none turbo. However, I would persum it would be a similar if not the same set up.

    • @gavinp6025
      @gavinp6025 4 місяці тому

      Hi how did you remove the metal casing?

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  4 місяці тому +1

      @gavinp6025 hammer and chisel along the seam. Or you could use a mini hobby disk cutter.. just be careful not to hit the screw in the fuel pump with the hammer

  • @user-bd2mx7rt1t
    @user-bd2mx7rt1t 10 місяців тому +1

    Can we start the car without the box

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  9 місяців тому

      Yes, you can remove the box totally and connect the two wires up as in the video

    • @jacobtex4611
      @jacobtex4611 8 місяців тому

      @@Adventure.with.Robbie sometimes the inmobilizer is hooked up with the switchboard. I hope this is not the case for the volkswagen t4? Must be since it worked for you ;)

    • @Adventure.with.Robbie
      @Adventure.with.Robbie  8 місяців тому

      @jacobtex4611 I'm unsure to be fair. I done this on mine about a year ago. Had no issues with it at all. When you say switch bourd. Do you mean the black box that the two wires are originally connected too?

    • @jacobtex4611
      @jacobtex4611 7 місяців тому

      i ment the main central comupter@@Adventure.with.Robbie