Solar water heater. No controller and no pump. Making and installing
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2023
- Self-made, cheap and simple solar water heater. Suitable for off grid living, no electricity required. No controller and no pump. Made from polycarbonate and CPVC pipes.
For many years we used a solar collector for water heating in our homestead. It was made of tin radiators and covered with double glazing. Over a long period of time, the wooden frame rotted, the glass broke, and the radiator was punctured. We are making and installing a new solar collector for water heating. We will have free hot water in the house.
Watch, relax and enjoy life. Homesteading, slow living, country life - Навчання та стиль
Хорошие хозяева ! Все умеете, все у вас есть ! Будьте здоровы!
Спасибо 🙂
Приветик из Сибири, вы как всегда молодцы. Все правильно, надо улучшать свой быт, комфорт дело приятное. Удачи вам!
Золоті руки у Вас,мира і здоров'я Вам бажаю
Как всё у вас ДУШЕВНЕНЬКО, ПО ПРОСТОМУ и ЛЯПОТА ТО КАКА!!!
СПАСИБО БОЛЬШОЕ!
Как всегда без суеты, по домашнему, интересно , а в этот раз ещё и позновательно. Говорят: " век живи, век учись". Мира и добра вашему хутору. Ждём новой встречи.
Спасибо ❤️🌹
Why are people busting this guys balls for using what he had available. Would copper be better? Absolutely. But the construction only varies in the difference of how the piping is built-out and tied-in. Way to go in making your home economical and self-sustaining. Kudos to you
Супер👍👍👍😊🌹дякую
Thanks for the tutorial. I live in the Netherlands, and we use a commercial produced solar boiler (+- 2 square meters), with 200 liter storage, which can in the summer easily heat the water up to 80 degrees Celsius, but that one uses a controller, a pump and anti-freeze. We use that for the shower.
I'm thinking of building a separate system myself, heating the house a little bit with solar warmth in the spring and autumn.
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Thanks for explaining that for your system to work properly, the boiler-vessel has to be placed above the boiler, which I can't do in our situation, so I will need a a small pump.
The pump needs to be turned on via a controller so that it only runs when the sun is shining. When there is no sun and at night, the water circulation will cool the water 🙂
пусть все у вас получится так , как вы задумали
SUPER IDEA . POZDRAWIAM BARDZO SERDECZNIE.
Dziękuję bardzo. ❤
your wife rough hand tells me how much hardworking and helpful she is in you creation. Stay happy ☺ ☺
Creation belongs to both of us. Maybe there is happiness in that ❤
Looks Great......Plumbing is always fun. You always need just one more piece though, LOL. I would like to set up some solar heated water for an outdoor shower.....someday. Best wishes
Thank you. Yes, plumbing is fun, but there is always some small detail missing. I had to go into town to buy a small piece of pipe. Good luck with your outdoor shower 🙂
Thank you.
Hey Sis.
It’s the touch of love that heals!
habe ich vor 18 Jahren gebaut, Rahmen Alu ,Bodenplatte Alu ,Rohre PVC, abdeckung 4 mm Klarglas,
Rohrschellen Edelstahl... Entnahme Wasserhahn immer offen..Wassereinlass ueber Waschmaschinen Ventil in der Kueche schaltbar . Immer noch in Funktion.
2.System auf dem Balkon 15 cm Durchmesser Plastikrohr 4 Meter lang (schwarz gestrichen)auf der Bruestung befestigt
Wasserentnahme immer offen (Dusche) Einlass Waschmaschinenventil Schalter im Bad .
funktioniert seit 15 Jahren ...Beide Systeme Verrottungssicher ,kein Termitenbefall ..
Делал такую утюгом,трубу покрасить в чёрный кпд +30 %.Проработала около 3 лет потом стала протекать. Сейчас делаю другую без утюга .
Bardzo podoba mi się ten film. Prace wykonywane bardzo spokojnie. Tak myślałem że będzie to mało wydajne. Za mało rurek. Dziękuję za film,
To fajny pomysł dla bogatych dzieci na naukę fizyki w praktyce. Poza tym, nie ma żadnego sensu taki "solar" bo za ok. 1000 zł można kupić fabryczny, z hartowaną szybą i na miedzianych rurkach. Mam 4 fabryczne solary z 300 l. zbiornikiem i dodatkowymi kaloryferami, które przez wymiennik osuszają mi wilgotne piwnice/sutereny latem, gdy mam za dużo ciepła.
God rest ye merry gentlemen as background music lol!
Thank you. ❤️
Should use copper pipe and put metal in the box to retain heat as clouds pass..... the one i made was for air and 8am zero degrees F i had 132 degrees of air
Cel mai bine din țeavă de cupru sau otel .
wooden box frame is fine, but line it with flat sheet metal. Then do not use polycarbonate, again flat sheet metal keeping as small a gap between base and lid. The metal box system will heat the trapped air faster giving a higher efficiency. As the system is not pressurised use low density irrigation pipe with a smaller diameter but more legs. This lowers the cost which can be either lower cost or increase the size of the system using the same size budget,
Making/lining the box with sheet metal and covering (making sure you have a great seal) it with metal increases the box temperature plus using much thinner walled LD pipe (no welder needed as a bonus) transfers the heat to the liquid with greater efficiency.
Thank you 🙂
Bun! O singura observatie.Parerea mea,ca ar trebui pus geam de 5 mm,in loc de policarbonat,ptr ca la expunerea razelor solare,pocneste,iar cand intra soarele in nori de asemena.Cand "bate gheata" se crapa si apar gaurele.Oricum nu rezista mai mult de 2-3 ani.Am avut pus la tara la parinti pe o terasa acoperita si in primavara o sa-l schimb,ptr ca este gaurit de gheata.A fost montat de 3 ani,sau 4.
The bird was my favorite part
hey !
I'm looking for making a similar system in Latvia. But I'm scared about the winter likes (I'm initially from France ^^') How does the water react with the -20°C that's here some times ?
Also, do you have plant base water treatment in your garden ?
hello Thanks for watching us. We drain the water from the collector during the winter. The water is heated from the alternative circuit, which is installed in the wood-burning stove. Of course, you can use glycerine or another non-freezing liquid instead of water, but in winter the day is short and the system performance will be low.
I was also thinking about turning a coil around the stove chimney. Then that's the best Idea I guess ! Thank you for that answer ! @@Greenhomestead
Plastic Tubing ?
Man is a Genius , but in his own mind !
Трубы тоже надо было покрасить чёрной краской, белые нагреваются значительно хуже. Народ ещё зеркала добавляет для концентрации света с большей пощади на коллектор.
I like your video! Any idea how much this increases the temperature of the water?
On a sunny day, the water temperature is around 50 degrees C. The boiler has a capacity of 150 liters
What is the tool you are using to melt the plastic?
We use a special tool for connecting plastic plumbing pipes. Such a tool is sold in tool shops
Enjoying in the Rocky Mountains of Canada 🇨🇦 🏔
Yes sistema👍☀ ⚡💡
Would love to have seen the redults
Увеличить теплоотдачу можно если под трубы положить металлический лист покрашенный в черный цвет. Поликарбонат хуже чем стекло пропускает свет. Ну и носить воду на чердак не очень удобно. В маленькой накопительной ёмкости нагреется мало воды. На моем сайте есть вариант с подключением водопровода, но и этот тоже вариант рабочий со своими плюсами и минусами.
Насчет переноса воды на чердак, вы меня неправильно поняли. На чердаке расположен бойлер на 150 литров, который нагревается водой из солнечного коллектора, циркулирующей по замкнутому кругу. А пластиковый бак используется только для дозаправки этого контура, раз в 1-2 месяца и вода в нем не нагревается. По поводу стекла вместо поликарбоната, вы правы, думаем вернуться к стеклопакету.
Самый хороший солнечный нагреватель из листового алюминия с толщиной камеры 2 см..
Did that plexiglass say “uv protection” on it?
Yes, it is UV protected 🙂
Для быстрой передачи тепловой солнечной энергии теплоносителю, необходимо делать сам коллектор из суперпроводников а супер проводник - это либо медь, либо алюминий, даже стальные трубы хуже будут осуществлять передачу тепловой энергии....
Как вариант можно сделать из гофрированной нержавеющей трубы, потому что площадь передачи у неё будет больше....
Well folks, it is a commendable effort to use renewable solar energy to save money and resources but I'm sorry to say that you will be lucky to reach 30% efficiency because your design is all wrong!
You make the same mistake as all other DIY solar heating designers do and it is always counterproductive. You should never paint anything black, that isn't part of the heat collecting system. You should never paint the interior of your cabinet black. Black absorbs radiant heat, so any energy that strikes the interior walls of the collector cabinet will be 100% absorbed and will never do anything to heat the water in the system. All the energy that is absorbed by the cabinet can not heat the water and what that heat does do, is dry out the wood and create a fire hazard over time. THE ONLY THING THAT SHOULD BE PAINTED BLACK IS THE PIPES OF THE COLLECTOR ITSELF, which should be painted on all sides, not just the front, so they can collect heat coming from reflecting surfaces! Nothing else should ever be painted black! The interior of the cabinet should be lined with aluminum foil so that any solar radiation that strikes it, can be reflected and possibly absorbed by the black piping of the collector which increases the efficiency. Painting the cabinet interior black, DECREASES ITS EFFICIENCY! Sorry to keep yelling but people don't seem to understand how a solar collector works...
Once you have lined the interior of your cabinet with aluminum foil and painted your collector black, you will see that you have a very small heat collecting surface since it is mostly the surface of the pipes that faces the Sun that gets heated. The Sun at best only gives you about 1kW per square meter. Your collector surface is only about a fifth of a square meter, so even if it was 100% efficient, it could only deliver about 200 watts of heat, which is almost nothing... You need to cover as much of the interior with pipes as possible and keep them as close together as possible to get enough surface area heat, to actually do something useful.
The purpose of building the collector is to save money, presumably but saving money on construction costs to build a system that doesn't do anything, just wastes money resources and effort. Using PVC piping may make it cheep to build but PVC has a thermal conductivity rate of only about, 0.125 W/m-K. Whereas the thermal conductivity of aluminum is about 237 W/m-K, so you only get about 1/1896th the heat from the same collector made of PVC. Copper has a thermal conductivity of about 398 W/m-K so you could get as much as 3184 times as much heat from your collector. If you are putting all that effort and expense into building your collector I suggest that saving money on material doesn't save anything if it doesn't work and I'm betting that by now you know that.
There are hundreds of ways to build a solar collector but I would like to suggest that if you could modify a couple automobile radiators to fit into your collector, which will already be painted black, probably, it would give you a much larger collector surface area so you have a lot more heat to begin with and auto radiators are specifically designed to transfer heat to water or visa versa. It may cost a little more to build but at least it might do something to recoup the cost, not just waste money and effort...
Just trying to help and save everyone time, money and effort.
Good luck!
What about painting the copper black and the pvc black?
Does the black paint absorb more heat and transfer it into the plastic?
@@Matthew_Loutner Yes the black does absorb more heat but the copper is thousands of times faster at transferring that heat to the water, so the copper is the better choice I think because it is a one time expense that pays for itself forever.
This normally true, however if your back plate is conductive an your tubes are conductive (metal usually) and you provide sufficient contact between them *then* you can paint the back plate/("fins") black.
@@unionse7en Yes, because they are part of the collector/heat-exchanger. That is the only part that should be black, the rest of the interior should be reflective to send that heat, back to the heat-exchanger.
I fully agree on part of your comments re use of pvc pipes inplace of copper pipes. As copper has much higher theremal conductivity than the PVC. However, I differ a bit on your comments re the use of black paint in the box anywhere other than the pipes. Actually, it varies from case to case. In my box I have used 2 inch thick thermocol sheet on the back and sides of the box/frame. Upon these sheets, i have pasted aluminium sheets and panted these with matt black paint finally. Now, In this case the heat absorbed by black aluminium sheets would find no way to go out of the box as thermocol has a very low conductivity (0.01) and it is expected that the heat would be released to the air within the box as aluminium is a good thermal conductor. So this additional heat will help in inceasing the internal temperature of the box which inturn will be used by the copper pipes in order to transfer heat to the water. Secondly, if i just leave the aluminium sheets without Black Matt paint then there are great chances that whatever small amount of heat aluminum will absorb will be reflected out of the box instead of providing that heat to the copper pipes. This is because that in the solar reflections the angle with which the sun strikes a suface is very important. On the other hand it is very difficult to maintain a fix angle say 90 degrees constantly with the sun in such a fixed boxes. As the sun daily changes its angles of flight with respect to any surface on earth. So for example if the sun rays strikes at an angle of 75 degrees to the aluminum back in the box then surely its rays would be reflected out from the upper section of the box. Aluminium is good in heat capacty, coductivity but it also is a reflector and we do not want the sun rays to be reflected out of the box soon after they strike the box. So, as per my view painting in black matt color will not only absorb more heat but also will reduce the reflective property of the aluminum thus releasing the heat absorbed within the box slowly. All readers are openly invited to comment upon my views. Thanks!
Isnt adding a reflextive surface like mirror or aluminium foil on the bottom of the collector increase it's efficiency? As you build it, the black paint will heat up the wooden exterrior and not the pipes. Also how does the heat transfer liquid circulate without a pump, won't it cause the heating agent evaporate in the heatpipes and cause a system leak?
Original, factory made water solar 1mx 2m cost about 200$ so building home made is waste of time and money
A mirror under the pipes will not increase the efficiency, because the pipes are heated not only by the sun, but also by the hot air inside the box. Circulation takes place due to natural convection, the collector is installed lower than the boiler. Since the liquid transfers heat to the high-capacity boiler, the temperature of the pipes cannot exceed 100 degrees C
Можно вообще из толстого поликарбоната сделать подобный коллектор. Проделав заклеив некоторые трубки поликарбоната создав ёмкость в виде змеевика. Заполнив полости теплоносителем. И закрасив одну из сторон термостойкой краской для более эффективной работы коллектора.
Я слышал о такой конструкции. Торцы поликарбоната сложно надежно загерметизировать.
@@Greenhomesteadа если силиконовым герметиком?
@@Greenhomestead современная химия творит чудеса, не поверите. вот это автор видео на лен собирал, я я гвс от котла - на анаэробный герметик. иииии??? час и без льна можно опрессовывать
How much water will it hold
The heating circuit holds about 10 liters of water. It is separate from the potable water circuit, the boiler capacity is 150 liters.
What is the machine you're using to melt & forge the PVC connections? Is it a plastic pipe welder and do those work better than primer + glue?
The following welding machine is best suited for joining this type of PVC pipes. There are other types of plastic pipes, which are joined with special glue.
Nice! But doesn't this mean you have to climb to the attic every single time to fill it up?
Regarding the transfer of water into the attic, you misunderstood me. In the attic there is a 150-liter boiler, which is heated by water from the solar collector circulating in a closed circle. And the plastic tank is used only to refuel this circuit, once every 1-2 months, and the water in it does not heat up. 🙂
@@Greenhomestead very nice!
PP is not UV resistant. Should have used PE instead.
The polycarbonate sheet has UV protection. In our country, greenhouses are made from this
How does this work compared to your previous system? Does it produce heat? And how about the plastic cover?
Oh, you have already answered these, sorry. How about the polycarbonate?
@@MikkoJordman The previous system worked better. The water temperature was higher. We are thinking of going back to our previous version, which we will further improve. Thank you for the comment.
Corrugated stainless steel tube could be ready and affordable option?
Most original water solars have copper piping - stainless isn't good idea
Why not?
I have those commercial copper-made collectors, but if I should make them myself I would use corrugated steel - affordable and so easy.
@@MikkoJordman "Why not"? cose of heat absorbing and price. Can you proof that your stainless is better and cheaper?
It's not better, but cheaper and good enough.
Пвх плохой теплопроводник,и вроде как разрушается от ультрафиолета!
Это ПП, а не ПВХ трубы. У меня полипропиленовые трубы 6 лет на улице, есть незначительное выгорание верхнего слоя от УФ, но до разрушения далеко.
How does the convection works? Im kind of lost there and what is the purpose of the canister?
Convection works according to the laws of physics, warm water rises from the collector and warms the water in the boiler. After that, the water, having given off heat, goes down and enters the collector again, where it is heated by solar energy. While the sun is warming, the water flows in a closed circuit. A necessary condition for self-convection - the boiler must be installed higher than the collector. The purpose of the canister is the expansion capacity of the water. Since the system is of an open type, the canister is used to fill the heating circuit with water.
@@Greenhomestead I've been trying to reply you with a diagram that I've drawn up but youtube doesnt seem to like external links. I guess I have to describe it, so based on my understanding (tell me if I'm wrong) what you have is a closed loop system. You have a water loop that circulate between your collector and to your boiler. I supposed there's a heat exchanger on the inside to transfer the heat to the cold water? And the canister is required because water will be lost to the surroundings due to being heated by the collector? I wonder how dramatic it is, how long do you have to refill it? Lastly, the pipe that you used I believe we call it PPR pipe in my country, I read that isnt a good heat conductor, is that true? Cheers!
You have correctly understood the operation of the system. Replenishment of water is required once a month. Plastic pipes are not a good option, metal ones would be better. But I don't have a good welding machine to weld metal.
@@Greenhomestead Can I know how hot does the water in the boiler gets?
Water from the well. We have a water pump (hydrophore).
Очень не хочется обижать такого трудягу, но если бы к рукам еще мозги, то было бы класс. Пример того, как делать НЕ надо!
три сезона проработает,так что мозги у него на месте ,ну разве что надо было трубу покрасить в черный а не ящик .
@@fishing_kotokel2022 Я не о том, сколько сезонов эта конструкция отработает, а о коэффициенте полезного действия такого солнечного коллектора. Трубы должны быть только из металла (медь, алюминий, железо), иначе дешевле нагревать воду электроэнергией, потраченной на циркуляционный насос. Автор "постеснялся" показать за сколько часов он нагрел хотя бы ведро воды на 10*С. Но видимо Вас не смущает отсутствие результата.
@@sse9686у него хоть что-то , а у тебя только болтовня порожняя , чел сделал , чел доволен и пох ему на твои КПД😂
@@vovan2495 "пох ему на твои КПД". Поэтому и пишу "если бы к рукам еще мозги"
@@vovan2495 с дури можно хер сломать..... Тебе аргументировано сказали что это "мартышкин труд", ну разве что ради ролика.
Ребята привет.молодцы конечно .но полипропилен .это не тот вариант он не даст особого тепла .надо было ставить трубу полителен чёрного цвета она в бухтах .вот она вам даст кипяток.но я не понял зачем канистра куда Арунас заливал воду.🤔🤔
Привет Сергей, на черный полиетилен тройники дорогие, а воду заливал в отдельный контур бойлера, по которому циркулирует вода от колектора 🙂
@@Greenhomestead там не нужны тройники .она идёт бухтами.я у себя на крыше раскидал кольцами .и всё. 👍💯.
Teisingai pastebėta, nereikėjo tiek trišakių. Reikėjo, kaip gyvatuką išvedžioti, per pus trišakių mažiau ir savaiminė konvekcija greičiau organizuojasi. Be to, jūsų konstrukcija neskatina cirkuliacijos visomis atšakomis. Gali nusistovėti cirkuliacija išoriniu žiedu, o visos vidinės atšakos liks tik dėl grožio. Nieko nenoriu įžeisti, čia tik mano pastebėjimai. Linkiu kuo greičiau išbandyti jūsų kolektorių.
@@jonaskazlauskas5117 Prieš tai buvęs kolektorius iš skardinių radijatorių mums tarnavo labai gerai. Vanduo pašildavo iki 70-80 laipsnių. O gyvatuką išvedžioti reikia lanksčios šlangos iš PVC vamzdžio nelabai pavyksta sulenkti. Šiandien atrodo bus saulėta. Išbandysim. 😅
@@Gavrosh-rnd А в варианте с кольцами будет самоциркуляция чтоб нагревать бойлер? Или будет нужен циркуляционный насос?
Okay. So I'm about to make a slightly modified version of this. So here's a question I have for some of you who have done something similar. Would it be possible to instead of isolating the heating coils and heating up the water in the tank with those heating coils couldn't do double duty? Safe for instance the water ran to the pipes and heat it up then it went through the coil that ran through the water heater heating the water inside and then finally it dumped into the water heater topping it up as it went increasing the water heaters capacity for hot water. It seems logical to me but if somebody can point out a inconsistency or some reason it wouldn't work I would greatly appreciate it before I tried
U mnie kaloryfer pomalowany na czarno i grzeje wodę w bojlerze na 50 litrów i mam cały dzień wodę do kąpieli i zmywania a koszt budowy wyniósł mi zero złl
Daca faceti registrul de tevi din teava de cupru are mai mult ransdament
Why not use black plastic tubes instead of white ones which have to be painted?
Thank you. We can buy only white pipes of this type in our store 🙂
@@Greenhomestead …oh. That’s too bad. We get a choice of white, grey or black. Good project though.
Jaka temperatura na wyjściu?
Pozdrawiam
Subik i kciuk do góry dla Pana 😀
Outlet temperature about 50 C degrees
@@Greenhomestead nie jest zła. U mnie z grzejników bez zabudowy wychodzi 50- 60 stopni. Wymienić na miedź w przyszłości 😉
Pozdrawiam
😂@@Greenhomestead
Поликарбонат с двух сторон с тоца заделатьклеевым пистолетом чтобы исключить попадания влаги проверенное нетолько нетолькомной
Спасибо. Горячий клей хорошая идея 🙂
Schön, geht. Und wenn du Zeit hast. Für den Materialaufwand, die Maschinen und den Arbeitsaufwand kannst du dir einen fertigen Kollektor kaufen. Der verrottet nicht nach 20 Jahren. Das Holz kannst du nach 10 Jahren wegwerfen
Kaufen kann jeder.
@@frank-rainerwolter9021 nach 5-10 Jahren produzierst du mit der Anlage Müll. Meine erste Anlage läuft immer noch. 1990. Ich habe ca. 20 gebaut. in Südamerika.
Weii, Speaking from experience I can tell everyone this is not a good desgin. It's SOLAR POWERED! It gets hot in the daytime then cold at night, In less than a year my system sprung a leak. No problem -fixed it eays. A month later ANOTHER LEAK.
Wishing you all the best,
thanks for the good advice
Добрый день соседи.Как поживает Ваш солнечный коллектор.Тоже задумываю изготовить похожий или прототип. Эффективней пластик после использования металлических радиаторов ?Что посоветуете ?
Если есть возможность достать радиаторы, с ними вариант эффективнее. Но конструкция получается тяжелее и сложнее сделать герметичность.
@@Greenhomestead Да ,я тоже думал ,что с металлом будет получше отдача тепла.Интересно на Ваш взгляд стоит -ли серьезно воспринимать идею с листом поликарбонада? Спасибо за ответ.
Поликарбонат стоит использовать, если вы планируете эксплуатировать коллектор зимой. Летом лучше использовать стекло. Причем лучше всего подойдут стеклопакеты, но есть один нюанс. Если разница температур внутри и снаружи коллектора очень большая, то стекло в стеклопакете может треснуть. Я задавался этим вопросом в связи с покрытием.
Would pex pipping work better in terms of longevity and not releasing toxins in the water??
Or copper pipe.?
Copper pipe would be better, but it is more expensive and requires special equipment to make the connections. Toxins do not enter drinking water, the heating circuit is separate
@@Greenhomestead , Special Equipment to make the connections ?
I been sweating copper pipe for 40 years ,
You didn't use copper because you can't do it .
👍🙂
Probably already commented but just a reminder. Do not use this approach below freezing. Attics are not a heated space.
Yes, we use solar heating from March to November. In winter, we use a wood-burning stove with a built-in circuit for heating water
czy pomyśłaleś może o wykorzystaniu zamiast robienia teh harfy używanego grzejnika blaszanego . To sporo upraszcza projekt .. Drugi zrobiłrm z rurek miedzianych które zamocowałem na ścianie domu. MOżna też kupić zwój rurki miekkiej włożyć w obudowę i przykryć ciemnym prezroczystym arkuszem plexiglasu ( nie wiem czy tak się to nazywa. A wogóle uważam ze każdy dom powinien mieć kolektor słoneczny dla włąsnych potrzeb. Mam dwa kolektoey Galmetu Ptemium w miedzi , kosztowały po 1370 żłotych o pojemniści wodnej 2,1 litra . Ws;aniale działają już 7 lat, Jak można się skontaktować?
Witam Dziękuję za wnikliwy komentarz. Naszą pierwszą opcją kolektorów słonecznych były używane grzejniki blaszane pokryte podwójną szybą. Służył nam 15 lat i podgrzewał wodę do 80 stopni. Z biegiem czasu stare grzejniki zardzewiałe i popękane, szyby popękały, drewniana rama zgniła, a nadal brakowało na tyle, że konstrukcja sporo ważyła. A montaż na dachu był trudny. Ale byliśmy bardzo zadowoleni z tego kolektor. Obecną wersję uczyniliśmy lżejszą, ale nie jest ona zbyt wydajna. Myślimy o powrocie do podwójnych szyb i zastosowaniu grzejników lub grubej metalowej rury. Rama powinna być również wykonana z metalu. Zgadzamy się z Twoją opinią, że każdy powinien mieć taki system podgrzewania wody. Możesz skontaktować się z moim e-mailem e-mail: savopastas@gmail.com
@@Greenhomestead Ja korzystam z podobnego do twojego układu tylko zamiast PCV białych stosuje czarne PCV do instalacji ziemnych plusem jest to że nie trzeba malować rur wydajność duża ok 70 -80 stopni obudowa z stali kwasoodpornej i podwójnych szyb
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
не очень понятно, куда используется нагретая вода?
Как она циркулирует? за счёт чего?
Вода в котел подается из гидрофора (домового водопровода). А в замкнутом контуре вода циркулирует от солнечного нагревателя к змеевику котла сама, за счет силы тяжести. котел установлен выше коллектора
👍❤️❤️❤️⚘️
Який захист від перегріву?
The water never reaches boiling point, so there is no need for a protection system
Bakır boru kullansaydınız daha yükek sıcaklıkta su elde ederdiniz
Am făcut asa ceva acum 25 ani ,dar din cupru.-sau demodat
On my calculator 1/2 inch (15mm) pipe x 15m is only 2.6 litres. Should have used 40mm pipe and closer together. 20m of 40mm pipe would give 20 litres
Yes, thicker pipes would be better
@@Greenhomestead That depends on the desired target temperature. The bigger the pipe, the quicker the flow and less temperature rise. With a pumped system, you can add a bypass to throttle back the flow to achieve a particular temperature differential, but on thermo-syphon or gravity systems, you will need to correctly size the pipe, or add a restriction, such as a gate valve to get the flow sweet spot.
Plastik nie zda egzaminu, proponuje od razu zamontować szybę.
Dzięki za radę, jak plastik się zużyje, będziemy montować szybę
u mnie po kilku miesięcach płyta poliwęglanu spękała i musiałem wymienić@@Greenhomestead
Direct heat of water instead of inderect so to deposit it I think is not wise.
Todel kad paksciai nemato stiklo..atsitrenkia ir zuva
Интересная идея. С учётом многих комментариев о КПД, можно комбинировать такой коллектор. Спаять из полипропилена нижнюю и верхнюю части с отводами под резьбовые соединения нужного диаметра и соединить с металлическими вертикальными трубами. И КПД возрастёт и сборка с обслуживанием останется не сложной.
Хорошая идея, стоит отметить.
Bez oryginalnego absorbera to zlom mialem 4 kolektory wlasnej roboty i wiem co mowie.
Takie "wynalazki" mają jedynie wymiar edukacyjny z fizyki dla bogatych dzieci
When you chuck something off the roof, you need to yell out "UNDER"! We hit a customers dog chucking a solar water heater off a roof once. Ouch! Good work otherwise 👍
почему решили отказаться от стекла в пользу поликарбоната? он же со временем желтеет.
Здравствуйте. Не весь поликарбонат желтеет, зависит от производителя. А со стёклами трудно герметизировать, получается тяжёлая конструкция. 🙂
Pvc releases toxic chemicals when heated and won't last due to the heat
The heating circuit from the collector to the boiler is separate. Water from it does not enter drinking water. There is nothing to fear about toxic substances. 🙂
This is PP and is used for drinking water in easten Europe and Turkye
Polycarbonate is coated with UW protection,not the best, and pp tube is a bad heat conductor. The next prototype will be better with copper pipe and glas.
Plastové trubky nejsou vhodné pro tento projekt. Na toto jsou lepší trubky měděné.
We are thinking about improving the collector and using copper pipes.
Идея ни есть хорошая , из ППР делать коллектор , ППР плохо проводит тепло . Лучше мталопласт
Лучше мед, самый лучший тепло проводник....
Plastic tubes? Why not copper instead? This will take ages to warm up and longevity is questionable.
Copper pipe costs much more. Of course, the efficiency would be better. Will have to think about it.
@@Greenhomestead I know that you may be having PEX laying around, but heat transfer will be terrible and efficiency very poor. You'll be basically losing energy for nothing as collector will remain hot even with water flowing
@@TomislavKoren
Plastic tubes: it takes longer to heat the water but it takes longer to cool the water.
I have both systems (plastic and cooper), at night, the water in the plastic pipes is much warmer than the water in the copper pipes.
@@ajarivas72 Unfortunately the collector will not operate at night (no sun = no solar energy) to create natural thermal flow (Remember there is no pump in this system) the hot water tank will be indirectly heated via a coil of copper tube and once this coil is the same temp as the cylinder flow will cease. Definitely better to use copper pipe for your collector as the quicker it exchanges the heat the quicker the hot water cylinder will heat up. I'm quite sure you could pick up used copper tube cheaply.
What kind of fluid is circulating in the heater? Frost resistant?
Без страховки на крыше? Мда...
Plastové rúrky?,najhoršie čo môže byť 😟
Без насоса стстема работать не будет, точка нагрева в безнасосной системе должна быть ниже всей системы, это аксиома.
Точка нагрева и есть на 3 метра ниже. Нагреватель в нижней части дымохода, а бойлер стоит на чердаке. Всё работает 🙂
@@Greenhomestead Разве не коллектор греет теплоноситель?
@user-dj8wu4co3s Летом греет коллектор, он тоже смонтирован ниже бойлера, а когда солнца нет, зимой, нагрев идет от дровяной печи
@@Greenhomestead Спасибо, всё понятно.
А нельзя озвучить видео? Зачем мне слышать звук дрели? Я хочу смотреть видеоряд, а не читать субтитры
Проммотрел 2 секунды видео, написать коммент и выключил.
Здравствуйте. А на каком языке озвучивать? Литовском, английском, польском… что бы все наши зрители понимали? 😅 Субтитры можно включить на любой язык, а многим они вообще не нужны. И так смысл видео понятен. 🙂
Why didn't you paint the wooden frame with four coats before you took it upstairs? Pine will rot in three years.
Yes, you are absolutely right. ❤️ Wood rots quickly. We are thinking of a frame option made of metal with copper pipes and a glass cover. Thank you for your comment. ❤️