As a long time RV’er, I also recommend that you purchase one or more dehumidifiers for your boat to help remove humidity from the boat. I have used them with success in my RV’s over the last 53 years. It just requires you to periodically throw out the water that you have condensed from the air, but totally prevented any mold from starting in our RV’s (camper vans, Class C MotorHome, trailers, and 5th wheels).
A heat pump = a modern AC, does that job too, plus warms up the place / or cool it if you want. They are very available and thus cheap. A dual inverter model takes the least power.
Does not work in northern waters. The only way for us was using a Dickenson ' fireplace' working on diesel. Best install we ever made on our Withby 42. Kept the interior warm and dry. It often ran non stop for weeks... consumes very little fuel and the visible flame is a nice touch.
I completely agree, I have used them at home combined with humidity management, on a boat with such a small volume of, cooking in the space, wet oilskins. it will earn it's keep in reduce cleaning, fewer spoiled items of food, clothing, etc. and a more pleasant atmosphere.
A possible solution is a Biltema solar powered sun vent. It does mean drilling a hole in the V berth perspex hatch and the lack of sunlight might be an issue in the north. Anyway M + A are smart folk, I ain't here to teach them how to suck eggs.
as someone who lives on their boat, in the north west of scotland, it's something i've had to fight with, and have done the same with insulation, it helps hughly, but as important is air movement. where i have vents i have used small computer fans to draw air in to keep it moving . cheap and easy to replace.
Scotland here too (Shetland). We currently have a pipe piece that faces down out of one of our windows, which really promotes air flow. The cheap, we’re going to tackle as the lining has fallen down. Am guessing you’d do the same as these guys?
@@dmitripogosian5084 yes I thought so. I'm thinking to install them under the v-berth. Would it be ok to extend the vet's cable with the same thin cable and run it like 4-5 meters back to the cockpit locker where my batteries are situated? Or do I need to use a thicker cable?
@@MikeSantis That is a good question ! 4-5 meters is not what you encounter in a computer box. I would also think that running it the length of a boat you would want to think about waterproofing it So intuitively, it feels that you want a bit thicker and water resistant cabling, switching to native thin wiring only at the fan itself. But I do not have real experience here.
We follow a number of sailing UA-camrs and we're experienced sailors ourselves. The two of you are hands down the couple we would trust to get us safely across any ocean in any sea state. And we would enjoy the company!!
You are doing a fantastic job. Heat rises. 2 things you might consider. 1) small 12v fans to circulate the warm air. Computer fans cost nothing, make very little noise, and consume very little current. 2) we sailed for 20 years in cold water (gulf of St-Lawrence and Labrador). Cork decking material for the upper section of the boat will add good insulation without affecting interior space. Also makes for safer footing when working on the main sail
I live and travel full time in an RV. I completely understand the need for proper insulation. Looks like Florence is coming along nicely. A lot of work, but you'll be happier in the end.
I installed a simple pot style diesel heater (Dickinson Alaska) on my 36' sailboat, with gravity feed, and have been delighted with its performance quietly producing plenty of heat while keeping the cabin dry (I usually have it set at the lowest possible burn level). It draws combustion air from the cabin and I no longer have any condensation problems. I did have to install two very quiet, very low amp 12V fans to move air through a bulkhead and around the cabin since initially the ends of the boat weren't being heated effectively, and condensation was an issue there, plus there was a huge temperature gradient between the cabin sole and overhead. While heat distribution still isn't perfect the fans improved the situation dramatically. I should note I'm usually the only one inside the cabin when it is cold outside so results may differ with two or more...or when lots of wet gear is being brought below.
“… draws combustion air from the cabin…) That is absolutely brilliant! Never thought about this. So not to make low pressure inside the cabin, did you install a “pipe” that draws fresh dry air from the outside to the air intake on the heater (so the outside cold and dry air regulate the air pressure) mixing with the warm air inside? English is not my native tongue 🤷♂️. But I hope you understand😊
I a gree with Bruin4life condensation was an issue on my boat up in northern Canada until I started to use a Dehumidifier I used the collected water for cleaning. Just watching you two doing all this insulation work makes me tired, from my expereince up in the north you will be very gratful you spent the time insulating
As for the condensation if you have the power a dehumidifier will work wonders for the key is to get water out of it and overboard and not leave it in side the boat to evaporate and condense again.
Dehumidifier is really not a necessity in my opinion. Heating up the dry cold air, having good airflow in the boat and good ventilation bringing the humid air out is the key. Imagine you are limited on electricity (on a boat). A diesel heater is way more efficient than an electric dehumidifier (battery wise).
@@Hupamaster coming from an RV person as I said power is a consideration but to maintain a rv or boat if power is available the dehumidifier is a great option especially if its in storage and unoccupied.
The insulation will give you two added bonuses, 1 she will be quieter inside and 2 she will also be cooler in warm climates as the insulation works both ways. This refit is already making great improvements on Florence, great work. She will be a smart looking boat once completed.
I was wondering if spray on insulation was an option? I know the product is very popular in home construction. Matt and Amy used it on Florence. Thanks for sharing.
I've been all over the North to small Northern communities in Canada here. It's a fantastic experience. Meeting the people, the scenery is amazing, even just breathing in fresh cold air can be exhilarating. I felt a freedom... being there. I think you will love it. All the best to you both!
I have done this job on our 43 foot cat and what I found was the the wood screwed or glued to the fibreglass for liner fixing was absolutely soaked with moisture and behaved like sponges. I had to replace all the wood with bits of divinicell blocks that I glued to the fibreglass. This prevented the condensation that soaked the plywood pieces. As seen on your boat it looks like it is untreated pine and thet is not good from my experience, which is from living aboard in Scandinavia. But I must say that you have done a lot of good work. Also remember the the chainplates are a great condenser inside and also the aluminium frames of the hatches. Anather tip also from others who have been living in the cold north is to get a dehumidifier. We had two Meaco DL8 and the boat was dry as a bone. Add a hose to the outlet and place it in the galley and let it drain into the sink, that way you do not have to emty the tray. Good luck going further, I'll be watching!! Love you two and the videos you produce for all of
Nicely produced video! Good DIY workmanship. 3 Ideas: 1) With Contact Cement, non-coated items won't stick; so, wooden sticks, plastic, Kraft paper ... can be used (not just wax paper). Liner large pieces: place wide painters tape half-on around show-side perimeter; then place over and cut thin plastic sheet to create a liner over the contact cement side. 2) Truck Liner Rubber Paint might be used as an adequate protector on some difficult surfaces. 3) For labor-intensive projects, many times it is better to pay more (over budget) for "proper, recognized, industry-specific" material than some cheap, experimental, work-around. One's hard work creates a proper solution without having to worry that some problem might happen in the future resulting in a costly and even more labor intensive redo. (Quality vs Cheap paint, recognized refrigeration foam vs yoga mats) MAY YOU ALWAYS HAVE CALM SEAS GOOD WIND PLENTY OF RUM! (bumper sticker for a sailboat)
Everyone else can suggest a dehumidifiers - my suggestion is far more effective: A heated toilet seat! I feel better now that I may have a positive impact on your future north adventure(s).
I love how you alternate the intro from "We're Matt and Amy" to Amy and Matt to Matt and Amy. Also, quite impressed that you are taking thermal bridges into account.
As a Canadian, may I suggest you check out Dickinson Marine. You can have all the insulation you want, but you need to heat and dry the air inside your boat first. Thanks for another great video. The amount of work you're putting into your next adventure is simply tiring to watch!
I installed a Dickinson gas (propane) stove ten years ago and it has been great. Would definitely go with a Dickinson (diesel) heater when I finally head back north again.
Looked like a fine job and there should be a BIG difference in keeping Florence warm compared to other vessel of the same construction. Looking forward to seeing just how well it works.
Insulation to keep the heat in needs to be very thick with lots of air spaces but if your main goal is to reduce condensation you can get away with much thinner layers. The important thing for reducing condensation is to cover every outside surface, even layered surfaces or decks with a core. Plus any metal that goes through the hull because this will transfer the cold through to inner metal which will produce water droplets from condensation. Any surface that is exposed to outside temperatures which does not have adequate insulation will produce some condensation but that is because you are continually creating water vapour inside from breathing, cooking, washing, drying etc. If you don't get rid of any unwanted moisture it will hang around and cause issues but you cannot get rid of all of it.
How is it that so few people have seen this video after three days?! Did something happen when the video rolled out or something? Another interesting video. Good luck heading north!
Having slept on a boat before it was insulated and then after it was given 1/12 inches of closed cell the difference was very noticeable especially the noise reduction on anchorage ! Airflow & 😮recycling airflow inside the boat is worth thinking about. We managed to get the airflow moving around the boat and passing over the diesel heated stove to reduce the humidity...old 12v computer fans ..
What a monumental task. I have a feeling that’s gonna make a huge difference. Well done, Matt and Amy. Sending sweet vibes and love from LIZ in California.🤟🏻💜😎💕⛵️😎🇺🇸
Webasto-style heaters only live for apprx. 1000h runtime. Even Webasto themselves admit this. For full time liveaboards thats one winter (!) Plus one needs electicity to run them and the noise drives me nuts (thast might just be me 😂). I still think you made the right decission for a test period. If you prefer diesel the reflex-stoves even offer warm water heating as an extra. Have fun up north.❤
ive found that closed cell insulation works better just dropped in place without adhesion as you may need access to visually inspect the hull nor does adhesion consistently last but water builds up behind it even with the best adhesives and serious mold occurs. the insulation left in as large of pieces as possible serve as the barrier to the moisture coated hull which ends up shedding excess into the bilge and regular cleaning can occur behind it.
Great job with the insulation! As I live in the Pacific Northwest dealing with cold and damp is a way of life. Equally important to insulation is to get the air moving in your spaces. It doesn't take much movement and small fans will do. Its going to be totally different but your going to enjoy the far north! Beautiful in so many ways!
I do a lot of camping. You need dry heat, and open a window to keep air moving. Cooking is going to be a big issue. Propane creates a ton of moisture. Make sure to open a hatch when you cook. At night make sure to have at least 1 port window open. A forced air diesel heater would be your best choice.
You could test your insulation by roping a few bags of ice against your hull. Make it so you can add more ice. Even add salt to make it colder. That should simulate cold water and cold air. Even boil some water in the boat to raise the humidity. As one person said, a dehumidifier or even those humidity absorbing things. Ones that can be recharged by heating them. Could be good for small spaces at the least. Thanks for all your videos. I’d really like to see you and Kiara and Adam meet. My top two favorite UA-camrs.
Yes Florence is coming along well. I really do hope installation of heat foams works in the Northern cold temperatures. This does seem like time consuming labour. Looking forward to next video
I hope you calculated the added weight of the insulation as it will make the boat handle differently, also going to the arctic with out a ice classified hull may not be a wise choice. Even in the dead of summer some locations still have floating ice chunks such as northern Iceland and Greenland. I would strongly recommend installing a stainless bow guard to take the brunt of any impacts. Fiberglass gets very brittle in cold water.
One of the advantages of a steel boat is that we have 50mm insulation throughout. And it STILL isn't enough to stop the condensate forming on the multidude of places that can't be insulated. As others have said, a 240v Dehumidifier is the solution, and it makes ALL the difference. We have an Ecoair 7 litres per day unit, and we run it during the UK winter for 3-4 bours per day. Best investment ever. Using clear plastic window insultation has also made a huge difference - highly recommended.
Our new boat was made in Finland, so this will be one upgrade we won't need to make. Greenland, Iceland, and Faroe Islands here we come. (OK, that will take a couple years, but we're on it.)
-- IDEA -- You can put insulation on the top of the coach roof/deck. If it is only going to be temporary you can make it removable or install a couple of inches and add a layer of fiberglass on top of it. The roof is the most important part for insulation even in hot climate. ALSO, I read that the aluminum foil is meant to reflect solar radiation back (when in hot climates). You are not to use it to keep heat in but to reflect solar radiation out. That one thin sheet of foil will reflect a massive amount of solar heat/radiation when down on the equater.
Great video. We are in Salvador, Brazil, sailed from Mindelo, Cape Verde, being a good stop. You are going to regret not crossing the equator, respectfully suggesting an early January departure from Mindelo, making it to Salvador in time for Carnival in February.
I saw an ad today regarding regarding a low power usage dehumidifier for yachts called a Frigidaire 22 Pint Dehumidifier that is rated umber one for boat dehumidifiers. Might be worth looking into to prevent humidity,mold, etc on your boat. they did not give power ratings or cost in the ad.
Damn. I've done a few vans but this must have been next level in terms of work. I would suggest when you set sail make sure you have some extra insulation stored aboard because you may well find some more spots you have to insulate when they start to condensate. You always miss something. Excellent work as usual guys.
Millennial Falcon is refitting in Oban, Scotland. They've been fighting condensation and are sure the biggest help by far is a dehumidifier. I think UMA cruised high latitudes and found the same thing, a dehumidifier was key. Very much enjoy your channel!
I was going to make a comment, but realised I really hadn't the proof of idea, proposed. So I will step back and say, do not re-invent the wheel, but get advice, wherever possible, from northern cruisers who have sailed the northern waters. All you have done so far looks great. Love the updates. I will be heading to Alaskan waters in July but the boat will be a lot bigger.
the reflective foil works well, I used it in my house over r12 fiberglass insulation works great on the minus 35 degree C winter days here in Canada. looks fabulous, you guys are doing a great job ...cheers
After working in a greenhouse for several years, I became a master of humidity. My only tools for a solution were heat and ventilation. Having slight venting in the roof (or less insulation) or a port that can act as a vent with the combination of air heat, or hydronic heat (if you can install a loop or two of pex tubing in conjunction with the/a water heater and circulation pump you can lie the heated tubing along the lower sections and have the convection of rising heat out of a burping vent to carry the excess moisture with the bit of escaping heat.
Snow on the cabintop will work as additional insulation. So, depending on where you go and what times of the year, Mother Nature may help keep you snug and warm.
Please calculate topside weight ratio after insolation refit to the dreadful enemy of north Atlantic is added sea ice that in extreme conditions does capsize vessels even with deep drafts. Great video, great refit, Florence is a beautiful vessel, good luck Matt+Amy.
Excellent job, If You are installing AIR diesel heater like Webasto or Ebersprächer etc. , you could also reserve space for AIR duct insulation with closed cell foam , which I would recommend You to do.
You can get some pretty small, very efficient dehumidifiers these days which will help to prevent condensation and the resulting mould. Also bicarbonate of soda and water is a good anti mould solution. You'd have to look online for the proper ratio😊
If you need more insulation... look up multi-layer insulation, its good for thin areas. You can get it for house insulation. Dont know how it would perform in a marine environment as moisture could technically get between the layers, but worth looking at.
The Eberspächer heaters do a great job heating camper vans and ambulances. They don't use much diesel or battery power. Also worth a look are the Webasto heaters.
We have done the same - so far we did our aft cabin and the heads. Every season one bit. And yes, closed cell foam as an isolation and then the carpet. I absolutely love it!!!! Hate the wet and cold white type of headlining which you can see on many older boats. Good luck! It will be worth it at the end ❤
Enjoyed, good project….thinking about sailing Reload ‘n Charge! To the UK (Hamble area/Poole perhaps) for the summer and next winter, so may have to follow many of these efforts! My old stomping ground…..currently in Georgetown Exuma and loving the colors! Thanks, Andrew
I can see that you are about to install a diesel heater. By running this diesel heater, you will exchange the air continuously and this will help to kip the boat dry. I have lived in my boat for several years in Oslo, Norway without any condensation problems. This because of a diesel heater and a dehumidifier.
I don’t envy an owner of a plastic boat because of this…it is hard to insulate them. I have a hard chine steel boat undergoing a refit. It had flammable foam insulation in the salon only, and I removed it. There is between 25 and 38 mm of frame space able to be insulated. I chose to use rigid rock wool insulation. Yes it’s heavier than XPS and foam, but way better for thermal and fire resistance. Removable interior panels allow me to inspect the steel hull, too. Reflective foil works best, I learned recently, when there is an airspace between the outside structure and the face of the foil. Otherwise the foils just transfers heat. It will be informative to learn how your hull performs thermally afterward.
Hi, I noticed at the end of the video the chain-plates were not insulated might this be a continual source of condensation as they are metal connected to outside rigging? Or maybe it was already in hand :) Great videos both of you!!
Your common sense, skill and diligence is inspirational. However I would suggest more use of protective gear, especially disposable gloves when dealing with sealants, paints and other chemicals. That would eliminate harmful effect from both the chemical and solvent later used for cleaning hands. God bless!
Oh, it's not going to be all that cold in summer, only if you fall into the water. You'll need plenty of sun-screen for Greenland. Also repellent for midges when on land. Remember, it will never be dark (unless you're starting before May). You'll see everything, all night.!
Hi guys, can you lower your soul/floor ??? There will be nothing worse than is sailing around, hunched over whenever you want to move around the yacht keep up the good work is excited to see the videos from Australia
I’m sure you know this and have thought about it but You have a couple of other choices that can help. you could use a dehumidifier- but then you need to upgrade the power or use only when on shore power. .also the type of heat you have will make a difference- propane is a moist heat as water is a byproduct of its combustion. If you have diesel hot air or a solid fuel heater they will help dry her out.
Nobody is using insulation sailboats here in Iceland. And my Viking for-fathers were in open sailboats...anyway better to be warm than cold🤪 you are very clever fixing up the boat...well done .....you go to Iceland?
Looking great!! So I live in Minnesota where we get a lot of way below zero temps, so I know all about condensation!! Is there any way you could run a small dehumidifier? They help us out alot!
I sleep with a woodstove that goes out in the middle of the night with no heat anywhere in upstate New York. It’s usually in the 30s in my bedroom. Remember the German proverb keep your feet warm breathe cold air. I use a CPAP constant positive airway pressure hose connected to my nose with nasal buds and vent my exhaust gases out side my breathing space to the cold atmosphere going through a bucket to catch the condensation so I don’t have to deal with condensation at all and I am plenty warm because I wear layers of wool and I use a zippo or a Japanese peacockliquid fuel warmer that stays burning for 12 hours. Provides plenty warmth. Just make sure that you have lots of wicks order the zippo and the peacock and experiment. If you can’t get them in your country will figure out a way for you to get them.
In high latitudes I don't think you will have enough solar to run pumps and fans for diesel or propane heaters. I recommend you get a charcoal burner stove which is small and doesn't need any electricity
@artsmith103 I know with charcoal there's very little smoke or Ash and there's no soot to stain the coach roof. I suspect with used oil it will have a dirty smoke. Used oil would be cheaper though
To have a partner to work well with, and accomplish major goals together, must be the greatest gift of a lifetime, one could have.
They are married and she is his wife, not "a partner".
@@Coleen_West yes, but more importantly they are partners, a team working together
@@Coleen_West and I meant in general
@@Coleen_WestMarried 46 years and we consider ourselves partners…yes, sometimes, especially with big projects, it’s good not to be a one person show.
As a long time RV’er, I also recommend that you purchase one or more dehumidifiers for your boat to help remove humidity from the boat. I have used them with success in my RV’s over the last 53 years. It just requires you to periodically throw out the water that you have condensed from the air, but totally prevented any mold from starting in our RV’s (camper vans, Class C MotorHome, trailers, and 5th wheels).
Power might become an issue. At the higher latitudes they probably won't be able to get as much solar power as they would like.
A heat pump = a modern AC, does that job too, plus warms up the place / or cool it if you want. They are very available and thus cheap. A dual inverter model takes the least power.
Does not work in northern waters. The only way for us was using a Dickenson ' fireplace' working on diesel. Best install we ever made on our Withby 42. Kept the interior warm and dry. It often ran non stop for weeks... consumes very little fuel and the visible flame is a nice touch.
I completely agree, I have used them at home combined with humidity management, on a boat with such a small volume of, cooking in the space, wet oilskins. it will earn it's keep in reduce cleaning, fewer spoiled items of food, clothing, etc. and a more pleasant atmosphere.
A possible solution is a Biltema solar powered sun vent. It does mean drilling a hole in the V berth perspex hatch and the lack of sunlight might be an issue in the north.
Anyway M + A are smart folk, I ain't here to teach them how to suck eggs.
The nicest, most down to earth, capable, wise, accomplished, hard working, and kind folks.
as someone who lives on their boat, in the north west of scotland, it's something i've had to fight with, and have done the same with insulation, it helps hughly, but as important is air movement. where i have vents i have used small computer fans to draw air in to keep it moving . cheap and easy to replace.
Nice idea. And I guess those vents consume very little power.
Scotland here too (Shetland). We currently have a pipe piece that faces down out of one of our windows, which really promotes air flow. The cheap, we’re going to tackle as the lining has fallen down. Am guessing you’d do the same as these guys?
@@MikeSantis Typical computer fan is like 1 watt
@@dmitripogosian5084 yes I thought so. I'm thinking to install them under the v-berth. Would it be ok to extend the vet's cable with the same thin cable and run it like 4-5 meters back to the cockpit locker where my batteries are situated? Or do I need to use a thicker cable?
@@MikeSantis That is a good question ! 4-5 meters is not what you encounter in a computer box. I would also think that running it the length of a boat you would want to think about waterproofing it So intuitively, it feels that you want a bit thicker and water resistant cabling, switching to native thin wiring only at the fan itself. But I do not have real experience here.
We follow a number of sailing UA-camrs and we're experienced sailors ourselves. The two of you are hands down the couple we would trust to get us safely across any ocean in any sea state. And we would enjoy the company!!
You are doing a fantastic job.
Heat rises. 2 things you might consider.
1) small 12v fans to circulate the warm air. Computer fans cost nothing, make very little noise, and consume very little current.
2) we sailed for 20 years in cold water (gulf of St-Lawrence and Labrador). Cork decking material for the upper section of the boat will add good insulation without affecting interior space. Also makes for safer footing when working on the main sail
The insulation will also help in the tropics to keep the boat cooler , basically it'll flatten out the peaks in the temperature range.
This is a huge benefit.
In the tropics sun shades shielding the deck from the sun have good effect too.
I live and travel full time in an RV. I completely understand the need for proper insulation. Looks like Florence is coming along nicely. A lot of work, but you'll be happier in the end.
I installed a simple pot style diesel heater (Dickinson Alaska) on my 36' sailboat, with gravity feed, and have been delighted with its performance quietly producing plenty of heat while keeping the cabin dry (I usually have it set at the lowest possible burn level). It draws combustion air from the cabin and I no longer have any condensation problems. I did have to install two very quiet, very low amp 12V fans to move air through a bulkhead and around the cabin since initially the ends of the boat weren't being heated effectively, and condensation was an issue there, plus there was a huge temperature gradient between the cabin sole and overhead. While heat distribution still isn't perfect the fans improved the situation dramatically. I should note I'm usually the only one inside the cabin when it is cold outside so results may differ with two or more...or when lots of wet gear is being brought below.
Can you burn used motor oil from quicky lubes change shops?
“… draws combustion air from the cabin…)
That is absolutely brilliant! Never thought about this.
So not to make low pressure inside the cabin, did you install a “pipe” that draws fresh dry air from the outside to the air intake on the heater (so the outside cold and dry air regulate the air pressure) mixing with the warm air inside?
English is not my native tongue 🤷♂️. But I hope you understand😊
Isnt carbon monoxide an issue in a cabin?
@@skypickle29 It's enclosed and vented. Imagine a little spoon size surface burning oil dripping on it inside a hot metal box with a chimney.
I a gree with Bruin4life condensation was an issue on my boat up in northern Canada until I started to use a Dehumidifier I used the collected water for cleaning. Just watching you two doing all this insulation work makes me tired, from my expereince up in the north you will be very gratful you spent the time insulating
As for the condensation if you have the power a dehumidifier will work wonders for the key is to get water out of it and overboard and not leave it in side the boat to evaporate and condense again.
Dehumidifier is really not a necessity in my opinion.
Heating up the dry cold air, having good airflow in the boat and good ventilation bringing the humid air out is the key.
Imagine you are limited on electricity (on a boat). A diesel heater is way more efficient than an electric dehumidifier (battery wise).
@@Hupamaster coming from an RV person as I said power is a consideration but to maintain a rv or boat if power is available the dehumidifier is a great option especially if its in storage and unoccupied.
The insulation will give you two added bonuses, 1 she will be quieter inside and 2 she will also be cooler in warm climates as the insulation works both ways. This refit is already making great improvements on Florence, great work. She will be a smart looking boat once completed.
I was wondering if spray on insulation was an option? I know the product is very popular in home construction. Matt and Amy used it on Florence. Thanks for sharing.
Impressive work ethic and teamwork! 😊❤
I've been all over the North to small Northern communities in Canada here. It's a fantastic experience. Meeting the people, the scenery is amazing, even just breathing in fresh cold air can be exhilarating. I felt a freedom... being there. I think you will love it. All the best to you both!
I have done this job on our 43 foot cat and what I found was the the wood screwed or glued to the fibreglass for liner fixing was absolutely soaked with moisture and behaved like sponges. I had to replace all the wood with bits of divinicell blocks that I glued to the fibreglass. This prevented the condensation that soaked the plywood pieces. As seen on your boat it looks like it is untreated pine and thet is not good from my experience, which is from living aboard in Scandinavia. But I must say that you have done a lot of good work. Also remember the the chainplates are a great condenser inside and also the aluminium frames of the hatches.
Anather tip also from others who have been living in the cold north is to get a dehumidifier. We had two Meaco DL8 and the boat was dry as a bone. Add a hose to the outlet and place it in the galley and let it drain into the sink, that way you do not have to emty the tray. Good luck going further, I'll be watching!! Love you two and the videos you produce for all of
Can’t believe how much work you have done in a few months. Incredible job!
A tip to you guys, to get in touch with allure sailing , this nice couple from Finland.....they know everything about sailing extreme weather.
Artic allure 😅
The channel is called Alluring Artic Sailing. @@eugenio1542
Alluringarcticsailing is the actual channel name. And yeah, they're one of the better channels about sailing in extreme latitudes.
Nicely produced video!
Good DIY workmanship.
3 Ideas:
1) With Contact Cement, non-coated items won't stick; so, wooden sticks, plastic, Kraft paper ... can be used (not just wax paper).
Liner large pieces: place wide painters tape half-on around show-side perimeter; then place over and cut thin plastic sheet to create a liner over the contact cement side.
2) Truck Liner Rubber Paint might be used as an adequate protector on some difficult surfaces.
3) For labor-intensive projects, many times it is better to pay more (over budget) for "proper, recognized, industry-specific" material than some cheap, experimental, work-around. One's hard work creates a proper solution without having to worry that some problem might happen in the future resulting in a costly and even more labor intensive redo. (Quality vs Cheap paint, recognized refrigeration foam vs yoga mats)
MAY YOU ALWAYS HAVE
CALM SEAS
GOOD WIND
PLENTY OF RUM!
(bumper sticker for a sailboat)
Everyone else can suggest a dehumidifiers - my suggestion is far more effective: A heated toilet seat! I feel better now that I may have a positive impact on your future north adventure(s).
Truly marvelous, the new insulation should make your passage to the Arctic Circle very cozy.
I love how you alternate the intro from "We're Matt and Amy" to Amy and Matt to Matt and Amy.
Also, quite impressed that you are taking thermal bridges into account.
Stop the semantics wokester
A major undertaking but going north without this prep would be painful. Your doing nice work. All the best to both of you.
Nice job of the V berth looks great and it must sounder much quieter inside now too.
As a Canadian, may I suggest you check out Dickinson Marine. You can have all the insulation you want, but you need to heat and dry the air inside your boat first. Thanks for another great video. The amount of work you're putting into your next adventure is simply tiring to watch!
I installed a Dickinson gas (propane) stove ten years ago and it has been great. Would definitely go with a Dickinson (diesel) heater when I finally head back north again.
Wow guys, what an Excellent job you're doing with insulating Florance!! Loved you sharing your research on what works and why. Thank you!🎉
Looked like a fine job and there should be a BIG difference in keeping Florence warm compared to other vessel of the same construction. Looking forward to seeing just how well it works.
Love your honesty
Insulation to keep the heat in needs to be very thick with lots of air spaces but if your main goal is to reduce condensation you can get away with much thinner layers. The important thing for reducing condensation is to cover every outside surface, even layered surfaces or decks with a core. Plus any metal that goes through the hull because this will transfer the cold through to inner metal which will produce water droplets from condensation.
Any surface that is exposed to outside temperatures which does not have adequate insulation will produce some condensation but that is because you are continually creating water vapour inside from breathing, cooking, washing, drying etc. If you don't get rid of any unwanted moisture it will hang around and cause issues but you cannot get rid of all of it.
Thanks for the videos, I enjoy seeing the refit! Good work!
How is it that so few people have seen this video after three days?! Did something happen when the video rolled out or something? Another interesting video. Good luck heading north!
I only see it releasing 35 minutes ago
You Patreons got in very early.
Having slept on a boat before it was insulated and then after it was given 1/12 inches of closed cell the difference was very noticeable especially the noise reduction on anchorage !
Airflow & 😮recycling airflow inside the boat is worth thinking about. We managed to get the airflow moving around the boat and passing over the diesel heated stove to reduce the humidity...old 12v computer fans ..
What a monumental task. I have a feeling that’s gonna make a huge difference. Well done, Matt and Amy. Sending sweet vibes and love from LIZ in California.🤟🏻💜😎💕⛵️😎🇺🇸
Webasto-style heaters only live for apprx. 1000h runtime.
Even Webasto themselves admit this. For full time liveaboards thats one winter (!) Plus one needs electicity to run them and the noise drives me nuts (thast might just be me 😂).
I still think you made the right decission for a test period.
If you prefer diesel the reflex-stoves even offer warm water heating as an extra.
Have fun up north.❤
ive found that closed cell insulation works better just dropped in place without adhesion as you may need access to visually inspect the hull nor does adhesion consistently last but water builds up behind it even with the best adhesives and serious mold occurs. the insulation left in as large of pieces as possible serve as the barrier to the moisture coated hull which ends up shedding excess into the bilge and regular cleaning can occur behind it.
Great job with the insulation! As I live in the Pacific Northwest dealing with cold and damp is a way of life. Equally important to insulation is to get the air moving in your spaces. It doesn't take much movement and small fans will do. Its going to be totally different but your going to enjoy the far north! Beautiful in so many ways!
The closed cell foam is a good choice. I have used that to comply with boyancy requiremnts on my fishing boat and it is also water proof.
I do a lot of camping. You need dry heat, and open a window to keep air moving. Cooking is going to be a big issue. Propane creates a ton of moisture. Make sure to open a hatch when you cook. At night make sure to have at least 1 port window open. A forced air diesel heater would be your best choice.
You could test your insulation by roping a few bags of ice against your hull. Make it so you can add more ice. Even add salt to make it colder. That should simulate cold water and cold air. Even boil some water in the boat to raise the humidity.
As one person said, a dehumidifier or even those humidity absorbing things. Ones that can be recharged by heating them. Could be good for small spaces at the least.
Thanks for all your videos.
I’d really like to see you and Kiara and Adam meet. My top two favorite UA-camrs.
Yes Florence is coming along well. I really do hope installation of heat foams works in the Northern cold temperatures. This does seem like time consuming labour. Looking forward to next video
Nice progress,Florence is going to be an even better very nice floating home for you🙂
@6:52, Stunning shot of Seagull flying.
I think what you have done will make a massive difference.
I have seen other you tube sailors go North with no added insulation.
I hope you calculated the added weight of the insulation as it will make the boat handle differently, also going to the arctic with out a ice classified hull may not be a wise choice. Even in the dead of summer some locations still have floating ice chunks such as northern Iceland and Greenland. I would strongly recommend installing a stainless bow guard to take the brunt of any impacts. Fiberglass gets very brittle in cold water.
Wow, what a lot of work. It must have been quite a relief to have the panels back in place.
A neat insulation and re-lining job. Looking foward to seeing the heating solution(s).
The forepeak looks amazing, great job
One of the advantages of a steel boat is that we have 50mm insulation throughout. And it STILL isn't enough to stop the condensate forming on the multidude of places that can't be insulated. As others have said, a 240v Dehumidifier is the solution, and it makes ALL the difference. We have an Ecoair 7 litres per day unit, and we run it during the UK winter for 3-4 bours per day. Best investment ever.
Using clear plastic window insultation has also made a huge difference - highly recommended.
Our new boat was made in Finland, so this will be one upgrade we won't need to make. Greenland, Iceland, and Faroe Islands here we come. (OK, that will take a couple years, but we're on it.)
-- IDEA -- You can put insulation on the top of the coach roof/deck. If it is only going to be temporary you can make it removable or install a couple of inches and add a layer of fiberglass on top of it. The roof is the most important part for insulation even in hot climate. ALSO, I read that the aluminum foil is meant to reflect solar radiation back (when in hot climates). You are not to use it to keep heat in but to reflect solar radiation out. That one thin sheet of foil will reflect a massive amount of solar heat/radiation when down on the equater.
I have a fibreglass trailer to combat condensation you need ventilation too.
Great video. We are in Salvador, Brazil, sailed from Mindelo, Cape Verde, being a good stop. You are going to regret not crossing the equator, respectfully suggesting an early January departure from Mindelo, making it to Salvador in time for Carnival in February.
BTW: what was the R value form the black closed cell foam?(that you used looks like 1")
I saw an ad today regarding regarding a low power usage dehumidifier for yachts called a Frigidaire 22 Pint Dehumidifier that is rated umber one for boat dehumidifiers. Might be worth looking into to prevent humidity,mold, etc on your boat. they did not give power ratings or cost in the ad.
You can buy 2-part spray in foam kits, messy, but can fill gaps and be shaved as needed
Damn. I've done a few vans but this must have been next level in terms of work. I would suggest when you set sail make sure you have some extra insulation stored aboard because you may well find some more spots you have to insulate when they start to condensate. You always miss something. Excellent work as usual guys.
Millennial Falcon is refitting in Oban, Scotland. They've been fighting condensation and are sure the biggest help by far is a dehumidifier. I think UMA cruised high latitudes and found the same thing, a dehumidifier was key. Very much enjoy your channel!
I was going to make a comment, but realised I really hadn't the proof of idea, proposed. So I will step back and say, do not re-invent the wheel, but get advice, wherever possible, from northern cruisers who have sailed the northern waters. All you have done so far looks great. Love the updates. I will be heading to Alaskan waters in July but the boat will be a lot bigger.
the reflective foil works well, I used it in my house over r12 fiberglass insulation works great on the minus 35 degree C winter days here in Canada. looks fabulous, you guys are doing a great job ...cheers
I LOVE your music. That's just brilliant...!
After working in a greenhouse for several years, I became a master of humidity. My only tools for a solution were heat and ventilation. Having slight venting in the roof (or less insulation) or a port that can act as a vent with the combination of air heat, or hydronic heat (if you can install a loop or two of pex tubing in conjunction with the/a water heater and circulation pump you can lie the heated tubing along the lower sections and have the convection of rising heat out of a burping vent to carry the excess moisture with the bit of escaping heat.
Top job guys. Working that hard up north will keep you warm eh
Snow on the cabintop will work as additional insulation. So, depending on where you go and what times of the year, Mother Nature may help keep you snug and warm.
A natural gum rubber block works well for rolling off old contact cement. (usually used to clean out sanding discs or belts)
Looks great nice job hopefully it keeps the boat more comfortable
Please calculate topside weight ratio after insolation refit to the dreadful enemy of north Atlantic is added sea ice that in extreme conditions does capsize vessels even with deep drafts.
Great video, great refit, Florence is a beautiful vessel, good luck Matt+Amy.
Excellent job, If You are installing AIR diesel heater like Webasto or Ebersprächer etc. , you could also reserve space for AIR duct insulation with closed cell foam , which I would recommend You to do.
You can get some pretty small, very efficient dehumidifiers these days which will help to prevent condensation and the resulting mould. Also bicarbonate of soda and water is a good anti mould solution. You'd have to look online for the proper ratio😊
Love the idea of the vehicle carpet u used in yr vberth. Looks great
If you need more insulation... look up multi-layer insulation, its good for thin areas. You can get it for house insulation. Dont know how it would perform in a marine environment as moisture could technically get between the layers, but worth looking at.
Fit an electric blanker on a inverter. Works a treat and you can then open windows to get rid of condensation
The Eberspächer heaters do a great job heating camper vans and ambulances. They don't use much diesel or battery power. Also worth a look are the Webasto heaters.
Aside from insulation, if you can manage a good air circulation system with fans/ducts, you should be able to manage condensation. Good luck!
We have done the same - so far we did our aft cabin and the heads. Every season one bit. And yes, closed cell foam as an isolation and then the carpet. I absolutely love it!!!! Hate the wet and cold white type of headlining which you can see on many older boats. Good luck! It will be worth it at the end ❤
Looks fantastic. Well done.
Messing with the nice inside is not for me so squirty foam on the outside seems like a really good idea.
Love your work.
Impressive work. Very nice.
Enjoyed, good project….thinking about sailing Reload ‘n Charge! To the UK (Hamble area/Poole perhaps) for the summer and next winter, so may have to follow many of these efforts! My old stomping ground…..currently in Georgetown Exuma and loving the colors! Thanks, Andrew
I can see that you are about to install a diesel heater. By running this diesel heater, you will exchange the air continuously and this will help to kip the boat dry. I have lived in my boat for several years in Oslo, Norway without any condensation problems. This because of a diesel heater and a dehumidifier.
Very good problem solving. It looks just fine but I'd fit dehumidifiers.
I don’t envy an owner of a plastic boat because of this…it is hard to insulate them. I have a hard chine steel boat undergoing a refit. It had flammable foam insulation in the salon only, and I removed it. There is between 25 and 38 mm of frame space able to be insulated. I chose to use rigid rock wool insulation. Yes it’s heavier than XPS and foam, but way better for thermal and fire resistance. Removable interior panels allow me to inspect the steel hull, too. Reflective foil works best, I learned recently, when there is an airspace between the outside structure and the face of the foil. Otherwise the foils just transfers heat. It will be informative to learn how your hull performs thermally afterward.
i’d be a but leery of the conductive foil (is it?) in proximity to wiring. you probably consider that.
You are really moving it along. 😊
Wow Sailor, cant wait for the sails to go up in the wind.
Hi, I noticed at the end of the video the chain-plates were not insulated might this be a continual source of condensation as they are metal connected to outside rigging?
Or maybe it was already in hand :)
Great videos both of you!!
Your common sense, skill and diligence is inspirational. However I would suggest more use of protective gear, especially disposable gloves when dealing with sealants, paints and other chemicals. That would eliminate harmful effect from both the chemical and solvent later used for cleaning hands.
God bless!
Oh, it's not going to be all that cold in summer, only if you fall into the water.
You'll need plenty of sun-screen for Greenland.
Also repellent for midges when on land.
Remember, it will never be dark (unless you're starting before May).
You'll see everything, all night.!
Hi guys, can you lower your soul/floor ??? There will be nothing worse than is sailing around, hunched over whenever you want to move around the yacht keep up the good work is excited to see the videos from Australia
Brilllllliant work - Thanks for sharing ⛵️ 👍
I’m sure you know this and have thought about it but You have a couple of other choices that can help. you could use a dehumidifier- but then you need to upgrade the power or use only when on shore power. .also the type of heat you have will make a difference- propane is a moist heat as water is a byproduct of its combustion. If you have diesel hot air or a solid fuel heater they will help dry her out.
Love you guys. Impressive work.
Thougth about using sprayfoam/polyurithanefoam insulation?????
Nobody is using insulation sailboats here in Iceland. And my Viking for-fathers were in open sailboats...anyway better to be warm than cold🤪 you are very clever fixing up the boat...well done
.....you go to Iceland?
love xps extruded poly styrene its waterproof too
Looking great!! So I live in Minnesota where we get a lot of way below zero temps, so I know all about condensation!! Is there any way you could run a small dehumidifier? They help us out alot!
I sleep with a woodstove that goes out in the middle of the night with no heat anywhere in upstate New York. It’s usually in the 30s in my bedroom. Remember the German proverb keep your feet warm breathe cold air. I use a CPAP constant positive airway pressure hose connected to my nose with nasal buds and vent my exhaust gases out side my breathing space to the cold atmosphere going through a bucket to catch the condensation so I don’t have to deal with condensation at all and I am plenty warm because I wear layers of wool and I use a zippo or a Japanese peacockliquid fuel warmer that stays burning for 12 hours. Provides plenty warmth. Just make sure that you have lots of wicks order the zippo and the peacock and experiment. If you can’t get them in your country will figure out a way for you to get them.
It may work better to heat up the headlining before pulling it off?
Good job Guys.
In high latitudes I don't think you will have enough solar to run pumps and fans for diesel or propane heaters. I recommend you get a charcoal burner stove which is small and doesn't need any electricity
I think oil burner will be better. Used motor oil?
@artsmith103
I know with charcoal there's very little smoke or Ash and there's no soot to stain the coach roof. I suspect with used oil it will have a dirty smoke. Used oil would be cheaper though
Masterly project team