3D print bigger, faster and stronger with a larger nozzle
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- The Tevo Tornado is a large volume 3D printer, but large prints take a long time. I decided to fit a large, 0.8mm nozzle. This easy to follow guide will show you how to change your nozzle, calibrate your printer and the slicer settings needed to tweak everything.
I look at the speed and strength of large parts, as well as the accuracy of small parts. This would be an ideal mod for any other large 3D printer such as the Creality CR-10 or even the Ender 3.
Tevo Tornado from Tevo’s store: bit.ly/2BObrab
Amazon: amzn.to/2PsC7A3
Banggood nozzles: www.banggood.com/0_3mm0_4mm0_...
Amazon nozzles: amzn.to/2N9JYUS
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#3dprinting #largenozzle #howto
I've been trying to use a 1mm nozzle but having the overlap issue you mentioned. You are the first person I found that mentioned how to fix this. Thanks for making these videos.
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Exactly How much does each vase weigh? Thanks.
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the UA-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
Finally, a decent video for large nozzle newbie. Thumb up! You gave out the most important information, relationship between large nozzle, line width and layer height which I didn't see another one did. Also with actual number for setting which is better than most of the others.
I'm still slightly tweaking but the early breakthroughs in this video were the most important steps. Thanks for watching :)
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the UA-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
Another helpful video from you. Out of all the 3d printing channels, yours are the best. You're not just very knowledgeable, but it is very obvious you really like 3D printing and electronics / gadgets in general! Keep up the great work :)
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the UA-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
Excellent choice in vases! That one is obviously the best vase model of them all 😁👌
I've found in a lot of my 0.8 nozzle prints with CURA that Alternate Extra Wall works a bit faster than Connect Infill Lines. Similar methods, but something people might like to try. Your videos have been a big help. Thanks from Seattle...
this guy is the boss!! love the content. you single handedly taught me how to 3D print, I have a Tevo Tornado gold as well.
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the UA-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
Hello Michael, I just want to let you know my opinion on your vids. Your content is actually really useful and original. Thank you for the time you take produce it.
Thanks very much for the positive feedback.
I always do a cold pull or at least remove the filament when changingg the nozzle. You could have filament drip
Great video as always Michael. When I get round to upgrading my CR-10 S4 nozzle, I plan to go with an E3D Volcano. I already have a V6 and the Titan extruder, so only need to order the heater block. Oh! and find/design a mount that incorporates the BL Touch.
Thanks Spike. Your printer sounds it's coming together.
Ask Holy Spirit to teach you and to guide
you. I would recommend the UA-cam Cleveland street preachers and follow Jesus no man no religion. Be holy and obey Jesus. Hebrews 5:9 "salvation is for those who obey. Jesus says if you love me keep my commandments (John 14:15). Jesus even says if you keep my commandments then you shall abide in my love (John 15:10).
Thank you For all the great advice
You are a great communicator with a head full of beautiful wisdom.
Keep up the good work
best 3d printing content on youtube
thank you
My standard printer setup is a .6mm nozel with .28 to .4 mm layer height. I have also taken to designing all my parts for this setup. I find that even big parts print nice and fast with this set up and they are stronger than the normal .4mm nozel. Thanks for this video. Great job!
I wanted to see the printing of the vase from start to finish!
In Cura the infill overlap setting is not really "connect infill lines". It's called "Infill overlap percentage".
maybe try operate with a second hotend (dual extruders)
to get booth benefits 0.4mm + 0.8mm
I prefer to print large, and work w/ .08mm nozzle. I've worked at tinkering my settings, and found most of my settings are the same as what's recommended here. One small difference is i print at a much higher temp for PLA then what it's rated for - i print between 215, and 225C - i do this because the amount of filament moves faster through the nozzle, and has less time to get up to the correct temp. A volcano nozzle does correct this by increase heat exposure time during feed. However, i found it wasn't really needed if you just increase the actual nozzle temp it does the same thing but really better since the material tends to exit at the right consistency, and if you use layer ironing (you lose a little bit of time) you can regain some resolution, but the strength is insane as the ironing, and increased heat creates premium layer binding.
What slicer do you use?
Thank you!
hey.. i loved how you make detailed videos. I have ender 5plus and I wanna know that can I use 0.5mm nozzle in my printer??
Very nice video aaand thanks for sharing. What is that next to the extruder that flash?... Thank you and nice printing...
Nice Work! I have a question, can I see your settings 0.8mm nozzle on ender 3?
I work with 40mm/s and got stringing.. what should I do? adjust the retraction speed & distance?
Can you share your simplify 3d printer profile or settings for a CR10 direct extruder and 0.8mm nozzle please?
hi, to be honest i'm only commenting because i appreciate your contribution - i have nothing to say.... i just thought maybe comments affect analytics or something. thanks dude!!
Good video, dude! When are you gonna upgrade that lighting / audio setup?
It's a new camera and microphone. Need to fiddle with them more. You should see some improvements in the next few vids.
Great video And presentation. I could understand you a lot better. Thanks for the info
Was that motor from a Dromida truck? Thanks for the video, I bought a selection of larger nozzles a while ago and now I feel like I should try them!
I don't know where the motor came from but it is from one of those trucks.
Very helpful, thanks
Hello Thanks for sharing good stuff, I wanted to know about variable speed. Mean to say that is possible to give command "User defined speed" Like 1 to 100 slices at 30 MM, Next 200 slices at 40 MM and next 100 slices at 50MM ? I have total 400 slices in a particular print.
Hey man, which Gold did you use to match the new Tevo Gold brackets? Ordering mine on Thursday, thanks to your great review on it.
Also, PUMPED for your AIO build.
Gold PLA from X3D.com.au
It's not exact but close.
Would ironing help fix that top layer perhaps?
I use the Creality slicer for my Ender 3 printer, what settings should I use if I switch from a .4 nozzle to a 1?
Need your help to know, if it is possible (and how) to use most of stuff from tronxy-100 and make it work in a bigger (500x500) hardware
Hello,
Do i need to change a settings in cura before i put bigger nozzle?
Are you sure it's "Connect Infill Lines" in Cura and not "Infill Overlap"? The former is only for some 2D infill patterns, and just connects the infill pattern into one continuous line.
Nice direct vid mate....
Would printing using 0.4mm nozzle profile in Slicer/Cura be problematic if I have installed a 0.6mm nozzle? My assumption is that it should not have any problem because the hole is bigger, so it won't have an issue with jams.
dear, could you please share the fff file of the 0.8 mm nozzle?
Bro how do you make supports thin/ easy peel off of a 0.8 nozzle cuz im confused and lost on Cura
i have a 0.8mm nozzle and my prints time isn't shorter after slicing, i set the speed at 40mm like you said but this increases time?
Can you do a video on settings for a creality ender 3 running a .6mm nozzle
Yes please
GREAT VIDEO, YOU HELPED ME LOADS I WAS UNDER THE IMPRESSION YOU HAD TO CHANGE SETTINGS IN YOUR FIRMWARE JUST RELEVILING THE BED IS NO PROBLEM AND THANK YOU FOR MENTIONING NOT TO REMOVE YOUR NOZZLE COLD. GUESS IT'S TIME TO ORDER A LARGER NOZZLE.
Thanks buddy. Good luck with the experimentation.
I just put a .8 nozzle on my cr10 s5 and Im still having issues with the overlap. Im all the way up to 75% on the simplify setting and ive still got a gap. Did you make any changes to your extrusion multiplier? Ive got mine set to 1
with 1mm nozzle when printer starts new layer filament comes out of nozzle after nozzle have moved 5mm, so no filament on those 5mm. what settings i need to change in cura?
3:00 I really need this stl model, please, I looked all over the internet and I didn't find it
been work with 0.8mm nozzle for this couple of month. but seems like never works good with the support when use a big nozzle for me. anyone have the same problems, or maybe have any suggestion?
Is your Simplify3D FFF profile file available please?
Or a Text list or Notes of settings please?
Cheers.
The main issue is that many printers using a e3d style head can not heat the nozzle properly. Also many extruder motors will start skipping because the demand of filament will exceed there thresholds.
It is for this reason .6mm nozzle should be the biggest you should install, unless you are willing to modify your printer with a custom head like a volcano; and also upgrading the extruder motor/driver.
What retraction settings to use with 0.8mm nozzle and direct drive when printing petg?
Where does the stringing come from in 5:12 in vasemode?
Hi Michael, hope you are doing good. I have ordered 10sets CR-10 V3 from creality which should be arriving early next month. Now im a first timer on 3d printing and since i had a commission on hand of producing a 24ft sculpture i thought to go 3d. Will be printing small plates and then stick up all together. Since this will be a mammoth project i wanted to go with 1mm nozzle. Kindly if you have the standard cura settings to go with this will appreciate to know. Fillament is standard PLA from creality. Many thanks and good day
I tried changing my ender3 stock extruder nozzle for a 0.6 instead of the stock 0.4 but it seems like its under extruding and unsticking from the bed because of the under extrusion
Where can I find the model of that vase?
So, how about using a smaller nozzle for more detail?
Lovely work, keep it up. Upping your Stats mate.
Thanks, Chris.
What about 3mm fillaments ??
Hey :) Nice. Thx. Your trapped nuts modeling... good.
hi, i have been trying to print with 1.2mm nozzle using Acura but it seems that the option is maxed out to 1mm. would anyone happen to know how to add the 1.2mm option?
Good Job..
Thanks Jerry.
help me with the first layer
I knew the nozzle was a bottleneck and more than just an orifice. That means there's a tiger in every 3D Printer waiting to be unleashed. I'll be watching for more on this. I found a mining scientists channel and now a 3D Printer scientists channel. Please continue this further I'll be following every step.
At 00:51, I noticed that both nozzles have different thread lengths. I presume the longer one won’t seem to screw flush. Is that ok? I ask because I’m in the same situation!
Hello Everyone
I have a problem printing with the nozzel of 0.8mm and I hope that you can help me.
Any time that I print with the nozzel of 0.8mm except vase mode my start layer points have a big gab, witch results in a sort of a cut in my prints.
I hope that my description is accurate enough. Btw my slicer is simplify😅
Thanks for the video, I learned a lot of things about printing with 0,8mm nozzle... Please, Someone can said me ,In simple3d, what are the right values for tevo tornado with Extrusion multiplier and Extrusion width?. Thanks a lot! And sorry 4 my english.
I ended up at 0.9 multiplier and the width on auto which is 0.96 mm. This is for a 0.5 mm layer height.
Thanks!. I tested this settings and really improve the results.
I just ordered a bundle of nozzles for my Ender 5-PRO, and the package came with 1.2mm nozzles. What should my extrusion speed be at this size?
Great video, Thanks.....just wanted to know if the print speed went from 70 mm/s to 50 mm/s or 15 mm/s.
Sounded like 15 to me
What was it? 15 or 50
DOES ANY ONE HAVE CURA SETTINGS DOWNLOAD FOR THESE NOZZLES?
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
have you ever used a true volcano? My cr10s an now my tevo little monster has them an pt100 thermistor. An have you checked out the berd air system?
I haven't used either but I predict covering the volcano at some stage in the future. Berd air looks interesting for a printer with little roo around the hot end.
@@TeachingTech I'm using berd air an zesty nimble (there from your neck of the woods) on my tevo little monster I didn't want the weight of direct drive an fans on my hotend for speed purposes my zesty nimble sidewinder will be in today for my cr10s an I have a 12v berd air for my cr10s as well highly recommended both products
I thought you will also install a volcano heat block.
I'd say that will be something I look at down the track.
I would like to see that also and what benefits if any.
I was wondering what might be your recommandation on who might have the best replacement nozzle as far as brand.
There are a lot of people on Amazon claiming to have the best made nozzle. Any thoughts?
Currently running .4mm Ender 3. :)
Thanks
BTW, my nozzle hits the infill when printing at higher Z. I leveled the bed, but maybe the x-axis carriage? Has this happened to you?
With nozzles it's my opinion that you either buy 10 cheap ones or one really good one. If your going the expensive route, something like an E3D harder stainless or even a ruby nozzle.
Not sure what you mean by scraping the infill?
@@TeachingTech thanks. I ment that I was printing a badge holder with rsa chip inset. It prints supports while going up, not infill. My bad on that. I think because I haven't moved the z-axis up high for a long time, found a flat spot.
Have you heard anyone having good luck switching out the wheels for rails?
I haven't come across it but ic any see any reason they couldn't just be unbolted and swapped.
Have you checked the Joseph Prusa MME 2.0 yet, any thoughts?
I'd love to test it. Please convince them to send me one. In the meantime I have a much cheaper dual extrusion machine on the way for review.
Could you have multiple hotends, each with a different size tip, then just switch those when you want a different size?
My printer is scratching its nozzle on the print after i uppgraded from 0,4 to 0,6. what did i do wrong :/
I know this might be a stupid question, but I'm new to 3d printing and do you need a filament that is larger than 1.75mm for the larger nozzle?
no, if your extruder uses 1.75, use 1.75. The nozzle doesn't care, as long as enough volume of plastic is running through it
One advice , use bigger nozzle n faster speed if you are printing simple n easy model ,it saves lots of time . For smaller model having lots of details use smaller nozzle
What type of hotend does the ender 3 uses? I want to buy different size nozzle but I'm not sure what to get? Mk8?
Shop page says MK10.
Use normal size nozzle , 6 mm i think
i try to print many times and when a try to download a file and move the file to cura , I can t because the program don t accep the file, says can t not opne the file in almos everithing in thingiveres :( some help?
Download the file, seve to yuo computer, check if its yuor own, if not save whith another name, thennopne the stl whith Cura
Earth science teacher, how can I learn more about earthquake machine project?
Hey, love the vids! Would you be willing to share your S3D profile?
I have shared it with my Patrons. Gotta give them the perks.
Actually, noone stops you from extruding 1mm thick extrusions with a 0.4mm nozzle. In fact, I often use up to 1mm extrusion width with my 0.25mm nozzle when I need strong walls. Works perfectly fine for me. Would you mind testing how your 0.4mm nozzle performs with 1mm extrusion width and 0.35mm layer height? You can set the extrusion width in the advanced options of slic3r (don't know for simplify 3d). As you said, you might have to reduce the speed if your extruder can't handle the flow. Also raising the temperature might help.
That is something I would like to test at some stage. Just need a video idea that it fits.
That is one the easiest ways to increase print speed. I also had great results with this.
In cura you can set the line width for infill only so surface quality is not affected.
And in simplify 3d its possible that the line width is selected automatically. I wonder why not more people use this and this is default in every slicer.
I don't believe that'll work for (single-wall) vase mode.
It's really funny. Most people in the 3D printing community never consider changing the extrusion width or don't know what its benefit would be. I on the other hand adjust the extrusion width on almost every print. I usually do mechanical parts or cases with usually one dominant wall thickness. In this case I always adjust the extrusion width so that the wall perfectly fits an equal amount of extrusions. This makes for strong walls and reduces print time drastically when no gap fill is needed. I print with 0.3mm to 0.8mm extrusion with most of the time. I really miss a variable extrusion width feature in slic3r... Would be nice if it adapted automatically for perfect thin walls ;)
@@4funrc11 I did exactly that many times. You get stronger walls without it taking any longer.
The thing that is limiting how thick you can print is pretty much only the width of the nozzle tip. It is usually far wider than the nozzle hole. If the filament is pushed out it has nowhere to go but to the sides, so it is the same as printing with a larger nozzle. This is of course only true for small layer heights.
What about extruder steps, e steps. I recently got a second Lulzbot off eBay that someone really had zero idea of what they were doing. Rail cage misaligned, guide rails misaligned and one guide rail support upside down stepper motors wired wrong, endstops wired wrong, nozzle cooling fan receiving no voltage and on and on. So all fixed but I have a working Lulzbot TAZ 5 already. So I decided to change this fixed machine dedicated to a MOARstruder 1.2mm. You don’t mention e steps. I could probably calibrate flow, speed, etc and save that in Cura as it’s own machine. I did have to do that anyway so Cura knows I am using a 1.2mm nozzle with the settings you mention but I also changed e steps. You didn’t need to do that? By the way, I am now printing 4 times faster, however, as you show in your excellent video, the resolution takes a hit. BUT, it makes things look a little more artistic. Yes, I printed a vase and, to be honest, the visual appearance of the 1.2mm filament strings as they go up the vase makes it look really really awesome. I do a lot of robotics, Arduino and raspberry, so I do a lot of prototypes before I settle on the finished part. This will GREATLY help me as the earlier prints, the prototypes, do not have to be anywhere close to perfect and as I finalize on a print then I switch back to either the Lulzbot .5mm or I'll use either my Snapmaker 2.0 A350 or my Sindoh DP200 which both use .4mm nozzles. So this 1.2mm HUGE nozzle gives me a lot of flexibility on a machine that I can keep constantly using the 1.2. I never expected to fully fix this printer that I bought so inexpensively and now I have a machine for pure prototyping which is AWESOME. Great way to use this extra machine that was almost a gift and make it one of my most useful machines. Not to mention how much I learned fixing all the issues that this machine had.
I printed number of parts with 1 mm nozzle at 0.5 mm layer height and the output has been great. The benchy I printed is 250% in size and it looks perfect. Much better than the one you printed (has smoother surface).
hello, could you please make a video for only .5mm nozzle upgrade with all the parameters, your current video jumps around too much on all nozzles. I've currently placed a .5mm nozzle in my Ender 3 PRo 3D printer and it's running as fast as the .4mm nozzle with the settings or does the settings change once you change the nozzle setting from .4 to .5. thanks, I enjoy your videos they are very helpful. Cheers
Nice project :-)
other slicer: Ideamaker, try it :-)
Thanks for sharing :-)
I will check it out.
Somewhere there's a song in that video title.
Not the optimum solution. Print 0.6mm at 0.5mm layer height. You will get better speed because of lower volume flow and will use less material.
INVESTING BOTH MONEY TO MAKE SIMPLE VASES
There's nothing worse than "trapped nuts"...
Agreed!
try 2,4mm nozzle xD
gdday again everyone its michael here let me know if you liked the video by hitting the subscribe button
lolz 0.8mm... I was stupid and bought a 1.2mm nozzle o_O
U can just change ur nozzle size to 0.8 or 1mm in software without having to physically change ur nozzle... Works fine for me.
thats gotta be the most awkward looking thumbnail ive seen in a while
smaller nozzle is stronger
I'm disliking a trend I noticed.
"Zed"....just say "z"...."zed" isn't a thing, takes longer to say, and doesn't sound cooler like you might think. Instead it just confuses the fuck out of me cause I have a friend named Zed. Zed is a name to me. It's not just this guy, anyone who thinks they are any source of knowledge about anything with an XYZ axis wants to say "Zed" but I don't hear any pet names for x or y, so when speaking about the axis in one sentence, it sounds like intelligible garbage....
Oh well....everyone's just trying to be popular I guess.
One advice , use bigger nozzle n faster speed if you are printing simple n easy model ,it saves lots of time . For smaller model having lots of details use smaller nozzle