Socks and sandals, top stuff. I did an oil pump delete off my older waverunner. Very similar, but I just looped the feed lines to the carbs so I didn't need caps. It works perfectly and has been running spot on for years now.
So, just for other people out there, The answer no one could give me, How to TURN off the low oil alarm/idle mode. So cut the oil tank wire harness about two inches from where it plugs into the ECU. Twist the two blue with red stripe wires together. Now Important! Wait a couple seconds, it takes a little time for the alarm to shut off. Now leave everything alone and the alarm will stay off. If the two blue with red stripe wires touch anything or if you unplug the ECU wire plug you have to start over and wait a couple seconds
@@135-j pulled one shaft on a mid 80s Yamaha 150 saltwater set Has been running like this for four years In hindsight......my problem was getting the oil from the well tank pumped up to the smaller tank inside the engine cowl, looking back I would have been better to just delete this larger oil tank and simply run on the the tank inside the cowl. My actual rin times per trip were short enough I could have just run on the smaller tank, removing the cowl as needed to refill the smaller tank. Having said all that I have not had a problem doing premixed gas
@@135-j Hi J OK, Well......I ended up reinstalling the oil injection. What I did find was the 3 small check valves were the culprits. I cleaned them with carb spray and blew them out. System works great now.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 omg bro...deleted all that stuff. And now other incompetent mechanics follow suit bc u did the video...and then u reinstalled it al. 😂😂😂😂😂😂 where's the amendment video, for the reinstall of oil injection....😂
Is it a good idea to do the oil pump delete if its working fine as a precaution ?Im getting a low hour 40 hp and I have been thinking about this subject
What wires should you cross to keep the alarms from sounding and the engine from going into limp mode? On the low oil sensors, thanks! Also would it be better to leave all the small hoses attached? They’d be sealed plus I’d be worried they’d pop off if there was a backfire through the carbs (not sure if that’s even possible with the reed valves)
@@135-j 98 MERC 75CC 2 STROKE, just unplugged the hose feeding into the carb and stucked a drill bit to plug it, removed oil jug has ran good ever since. the oil injector messed up first time in the water so I fixed it this way on the trailer at the lake haha kinda easy way to do it
Good job getting rid of all that bullshit. My Merc has a dead cylinder now because of that stupid oil injection system. Its so easy to mix fuel yourself and it will save you thousands in the long run
I don’t get 2:25. If that lever fails, shouldn’t the spring go where it does full oil injection? It seems backwards. My oil injector spring seems busted so I’m debating on just removing it all
Why cap all the holes ....If your going to mix your oil and gas now then just simply dissconnect the main oil feed line from oil tank and plug that one hose . Its a closed system so if your not sucking air or oil then you should be good to go . Actually you Will be good to go , did mine that way 15 years ago and works great . 3 min job
My sensor went out the other day. So I decided to delete the oil reservoir. I’ve been falling this guy for a long time now, I was extremely happy to find he had a video on this, because he does really good explanations on diy projects. After the vid I happen to see your comment and did won’t to do it the easiest way possible but after doing like you suggested, I realized it looked half ass. Hoses just dangling and I realized “the boat guy” showed how to properly do it, the way you expect a professional to do, or a guy your paying money to do it. No offense man but your way is half ass and lazy! I ended up doing it exactly like this vid, looks clean and professional!
@@muskbeard3924 ????? Loose hoses ????? You simply snip the hose on the oil tank which is Below deck and NOT VISABLE . Plug the hose or cap it and BE DONE . 1 hose to cap so where do you get Half ass and sloppy ??? Go your route and spend half the day tearing your motor apart as opposed to a 3 min job . I did mine that way 15 years ago , No problems. Long as you prime the gas hose afterwards and see the blue gas coming through before you connect gas line to your motor your golden .
@@islandofboom5704 Which hose is what ? Dont touch any of the hoses on motor . Oil tank has 2 hoses , just plug or clip the one running to motor At the tank . Then add oil to gas tank 50 to 1. So if you have a 40 gal tank and it's half empty , add proper mixture for 20 gal ...Dissconect fuel line running to motor , squeeze ball until you see blue gas coming through .....reconnect fuel line and your finished
Rather than use those little caps to cap off the pipes just leave the pipe on and use a bit of it to fold over and cable tie it off or on the pump just link one to the other ,,,,leave the carbs on and just again link them to each other or use part of the hose to fold over and cable tie it ,,easy. Removing the carbs cause hassle and damage the gaskets ,,,,,
Hello Eric...Thanks for this video..its very good. I am trying to remove the oil inyection system on my Suzuki DT200 87'. I am doing similar to your process. However, this engine brings a hose from bottom to the top of crankcase...can I just take out this oil hose as well and cap it? Wouldnt be an issue to the engine gears??
Love the videos. Basically have that same motor so alot of your videos have helped out alot. I've only been studying outboards for 2 months. I feel like I've learned alot but I know I have ways to go before I'm semi decent. Any recommendations on books to help me increase my knowledge
Hi i have a issue we my 1995 yamaha 90 2 stroke running foward they dont go more that 3500 RPM I remove the oil tank mixer i mix the oil we gas now ,i change the spark plugs i clean the carburattors ,i change the fuel line ,the prime i clean the little filter inside the motor,i check the fuel pump don have any hole on the diagfragm the compression on all 3 cillinder is 140 on each cilinder and is working better but not more than 3500 RPM, I dont know if is the CDI SAFE MODE or any other Issue,can you o any person here can help me PLEASE. Thanks
Like anything else mechanical that we are blessed with..failure only occurs due to neglect and lack of maintenance or tampering on the part of the owner/operator that doesnt understand..My old Evinrude 2 stroke finally died after almost 25 years of faithful service and that was from normal wear and tear and high hours..and its oil injection pump after testing was found to operate just like new.
@@deadlata9767 Yeah..and I suppose you have higher qualifications than my Aeronautical Engineering experience of almost 30 years?..Cut the crap pal and STOP JUDGING if you dont know the person first😁😁😁
Just be sure those openings by the carbs are getting air tight with the method you use to close these off.. You do NOT want air drawn in there when it's running.
I like your video. I have a 40 hp yamaha just like the one you got but I am having a problem with.it want run no longer than a minute an then it shut down an I don't know why it dose that.i wish you could give a answer to my problem.i would appreciate it
@@kendrickminchew1855 Then run the risk of blowing your motors sealed main bearings because it HAS TO HAVE oil pump pressure to lube them and running premix WILL NOT lube them at all..A very expensive more than $500 BANG will occur
a lot of lakes have stopped letting boats run with out the oil injection . hell they want to do away with 2 stroke all together. but there is just to many out there. there is 2 of the largest lakes in Texas trying to make it a rule no oil injection not getting on the lake. and they going to get it .
Some say yeah some say not too Know numerous people that didn’t remove inner drive shaft and have run 100s of hours no problem Does it pull right out or what
I asked 2 great mechanics about taking my oil system out of my 2007 115 they both said to leave it alone that it probably wouldn’t ever fail and how they never seen a Yamaha oil system fail on the newer 2 strokes before they quit making them
great video. I would like some more info on this particular motor I just bought a skiff with this motor but it's not working at all and I know nothing about boat motors so any info would be greatly appreciated thank you
eric edic I bought the boat pretty much for the hull . the previous owner took apart the motor some what. it Has no plugs in it and the back part is exposed I can see the pistons and housing it has a lil rust from it being left open.......I live in central Florida
Great Job Eric. my yama 80 hp 2 stroke. Shakes when I accelerate. Cleaned my carbies and jets, has good spark on all three cylinders, replaced coil packs, stator, cdi box, fuel pump but still no good. What do you think it could be and how to fix video? Cheers Dan
Question I have a nissan 2 stroke ob motor(basically same as yours) and that rod that is attached to the oil pump in your video..... on mine it was not attached because the plastic fitting broke. You said that as the throttle advances it shoots more oil into the carb. What if I do not repair this oil pump link rod will my motor blow up?
@@BooneParty No. I fixed it. Put a new fitting on it. these are DAM good motors Several years ago my oil pump failed completely while I was leaving the marina it acted like it was seized up but was able to drive it several hundred feet back to dock. Manually premixed it and it fired up and I drove it for years before replacing the oil pump.
Just bought a boat and not sure if injection works so I was gunna make a mark on the plastic tank and and make my fuel tank 50:1 anyways and cheak if it goes down. If shes smokey i rather that then to lean and blow i up lol
I followed your and disconnected my oil injection system after my rebuild havent had oil injection before and no problems so why risk it going out on me .
can anyone help me, I disabled my oil injection, the motor idles great, but when i WOT, it bogs a bit then goes, but its defiantly using full power and very slugish when going full speed.
I have eliminated alot of these self lubing engines. Basically the drive gear on the inside that is driven by the crank breaks and then leads to severe engine failure
So once you connect the carbs and motor back up how do you cold start the engine?? I have been spraying some Aerostart in the air filter. Is there an easier way..
Fred Bunny don’t spray any sort of engine start into the outboard ,,,it’s the worst thing you can ever do to an outboard ,,the engine start sprays destroy your engine seals ,,,and as time goes on you will need more and more spray to get it to start and in the end the engine will just fail to start or run at all ....please please don’t use engine start
I really cannot understand why you would ever want to disconnect the oil injection system on any 2 stroke machine..Firstly the engine was made to operate with a variable amount of oil feed for all rpms from about 100:1 at idle to 20:1 at full power so the engine gets the optimal amount of lube it needs..Running a compromise premix fuel will always overload the engine with too much oil at low power settings causing more smoking..erratic running..deposits..plug fouling..and unnecessary use of more oil increasing the running costs..and if ill informed people say to me..BECAUSE THE OIL PUMP WILL/CAN FAIL..i reply to that as total BS because the oil injection pumps are built as good as Swiss watches internally and in all my almost 40 years running boats and motorbikes with oil injection,the only pump i ever seen fail was one that had been tampered with by the silly owner butchering it and he paid the price by melting his engine..Dont take them off,just look after them and they will never let you down.
@@2fast4you25 If the crank main bearings on Sea doos and other makes are sealed on one side like on Suzuki CCI 2 strokes and are ONLY fed oil directly by pump pressure then you run the risk of blowing up the bottom end if you remove the pump as premixed fuel cannot lubricate them..If Sea doo has faulty pump issues i would be seriously chasing it up with the manufacturer especially if 2 or more failures have occured.
@@2fast4you25 Well im sorry to digress but i know 2 people who operate old mid 90s model XP Sea doo Jet Skis here in Australia with the system connected and no major engine issues at all and one with very high hours before being rebuilt..They use expensive fully synthetic recommended oils and are high on proper maintenance..Engine failures here are mostly because cheap quality oils are used and people blame the pump and when its tested it works fine...And im sorry to say this but also owner neglect or lack of proper knowledge and maintenance also destroys fine machines too..Oil is cheap full engine rebuilds or replacements are not.
@@2fast4you25 The world went 4 stroke because of pollution issues with old school carburetted 2 strokes not because of the unreliability of 2 strokes..Thats why we now have the new generation KTM and HUSKY fuel AND OIL INJECTED 2 stroke dirt bikes..If oil injection was that unreliable then why do BIG manufacturers still use this system on current model machines?
because when the pump goes out and it will after 10 years or so, the engine will be blown before you have a chance to prevent it from overheating per my trusted mechanic friend with 40+ years of experience.
Did anyone figure out what wires to cross , I removed the oil tank and premixed it but the alarm still sounds it’s getting plenty of oil cause it’s smoking a lot but would get out in the water it would go fine for a minute or so then the alarm would sound and it would go into limp mode
Is the alarm going off when it's running or just when you turn the key switch on? I can completely disconnect my oil float wire harness and it doesn't affect the motor. If the motor is running, and the oil float is disconnected, and an alarm is going off it is likely an overheat sensor. They're on the back of the motor near the top spark plug. Little plug in jobbys.
In my case, it was because of gravity and suction. I had the motor laying on its side after I had removed the head and that was causing it to leak all out.
Eric you seem very knowledgable so I'd like to pick your brain for a sec. We have a 90HP Yamaha that idles fine below 2000 but once you go above that it falls on it's face. My husband has managed to eliminate the fuels system as the problem & all we are left with could be the carb is stopped up or it's the self oiler. I researched all day yesterday & found something that said it would do that if the self oiler was going bad, it's kind of like a safety mode to conserve oil. It prevents the engine from revving if there's not enough oil in the mix. I've saved this video & the one on cleaning the carbs will try those steps tonight. Your opinion?
Thats not true. Yeah you verify tdc but you have to set the timing throttle closed and wide open but just cranking not running. If its wrong you can ruin the motor.
@@MrTomatrol Do you know how to bypass that? I just removed oil injection on a 90. Now I'm worried it will not work? I rebuilt the motor without experience and crossed my fingers... Lol
I was told that with this type system that the bottom cylinder gets less oil than the upper two? He also said because of this it's most likely when you loose a cylinder it will be the bottom one. That was years ago. I recently had to rebuild my yammy 2 stroke 90 and it was the bottom cylinder that failed. Appeared to be over heated.
Texas is stupid you can't buy a project outbor motor to get it running and when you get to the lake the game worden will give you a 500 dollar ticket And it doesn't matter if you said I wasn't sure if it wasn't going to work testing it out
They are worried if there is a problem with the pump or lines it will ruin the engine. They mix the oil with the gas themselves. You still need oil for the bottom end of the engine too.
+ Uptin Sinclaire The chances of them forgetting to add the oil to the fuel on each fill-up is much greater then the chances of the oil injection system to fail if the engine is maintained properly.
@@reyyanataergin1364 How can you forget to add oil? You do it every time you fill up. You NEVER add gas without oil. Chances are the injection pump will fail before you forget to add oil.
atari8 warez I have a 1990 and had the same mind set you did until last weekend when it failed and my engine lost power and shut itself off in the matter of 10 seconds. Luckily it didn’t seize and it seems to be ok for now but I won’t risk it again. I just had the big tank pump replaced and the whole system freshened up and still it happened. My issue is electrical nothing is telling the pump to turn on and it just so happened for some reason the float on my engine tank stuck. I can run 12v to the pump and it works so it’s just a wire or something but I won’t risk it again. It’s to simple just to dump in oil before leaving to go get the gas unless you are a moron in which case you probably shouldn’t own a boat anyway because it take a good bit of common sense to keep up with one.
Disconnecting oil injection on any outboard (except Johnson/Evinrudes) is a bad move. First of all, the systems are almost bullet proof. Too many people just don't know how to diagnose them. Especially Yamaha (the injection system is actually tied into the trim sensor!). These systems are variable ratio (meaning they deliver less oil at lower rpms (a good thing!), they deliver the actual amount of oil for the given throttle demand. When folks disable these systems and self mix, they end up using too much oil "to be sure"; that contributes to sticking rings, excess carbon, and less than optimum performance. Also, the oil modules for these systems have to be "tricked" so you don't get warning buzzer. It's just not a smart move.
If you're really a certified tech, then you of all people should recognize how prone to failure this injection system is, especially on older outboards.
@@lancehughes4132 Well Lance, I'm not sure what benefit there would be in lying about my career? Isn't the idea here to try and pass on helpful information? I'm telling you oil injection failure is extremely rare. Now water contamination in oil reservoirs, over oiling of OMC VRO pumps because you blow the fuel diaphragm with lean spits, improper supply tubing on a system with check valves....all those things happen, and 99% of the time, those failures are in the captain's seat. Just because you blow your power head, and you and/or you techs lack the ability to properly diagnose the real cause of the failure, that's no reason to remove good functioning oil injection systems.
I know some two cycle engines have an oil feed line to some of the crankshaft bearings. So if you disable the oil injection system it will cut off lube to those bearings. Premixed fuel won't get enough oil into those bearings. Besides oil injection is one of the best things to ever happen to a two cycle engine. And Yamaha's are among the very best, they don't fail! Ever! If you have an engine failure it's not the oil injection's fault, it's intake air leaks, carburetor problems, water in fuel, poor fuel, timing is off, bad or wrong spark plugs, wrong plug gap, etc.
Socks and sandals, top stuff.
I did an oil pump delete off my older waverunner. Very similar, but I just looped the feed lines to the carbs so I didn't need caps. It works perfectly and has been running spot on for years now.
Looped the feed lines to the carbs
Or u mean left the feed lines on the carbs
Eric, you have one of the best if not the best outboard repair videos. You've most certainly helped me in the past. Thanks man, keep it up.
+JamesJS Athlete Thanks man! Is that your supra?
No, it's my friends, I have a 2004 Pontiac gto. But I'm trying to look into getting one.
So, just for other people out there, The answer no one could give me, How to TURN off the low oil alarm/idle mode.
So cut the oil tank wire harness about two inches from where it plugs into the ECU. Twist the two blue with red stripe wires together. Now Important! Wait a couple seconds, it takes a little time for the alarm to shut off. Now leave everything alone and the alarm will stay off. If the two blue with red stripe wires touch anything or if you unplug the ECU wire plug you have to start over and wait a couple seconds
When you say wait a couple seconds do you mean to start the motor or what?
What engine did u do this on
Did u just pull out the one shaft or both and how long u been running like this being deleted
@@135-j pulled one shaft on a mid 80s Yamaha 150 saltwater set
Has been running like this for four years
In hindsight......my problem was getting the oil from the well tank pumped up to the smaller tank inside the engine cowl, looking back I would have been better to just delete this larger oil tank and simply run on the the tank inside the cowl. My actual rin times per trip were short enough I could have just run on the smaller tank, removing the cowl as needed to refill the smaller tank. Having said all that I have not had a problem doing premixed gas
Depends on years most time it’s just unplugging pink wire
Nice video Eric!
Very good video; thank you ! On the Yam 50 I worked on, the wires varied. Grounding either wires by trial and error works.
@@135-j Hi J
OK, Well......I ended up reinstalling the oil injection. What I did find was the 3 small check valves were the culprits. I cleaned them with carb spray and blew them out. System works great now.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 omg bro...deleted all that stuff. And now other incompetent mechanics follow suit bc u did the video...and then u reinstalled it al. 😂😂😂😂😂😂 where's the amendment video, for the reinstall of oil injection....😂
Is it a good idea to do the oil pump delete if its working fine as a precaution ?Im getting a low hour 40 hp and I have been thinking about this subject
Hello, do You need to do some bridges to electrical system, or just disconnet everything?
What wires should you cross to keep the alarms from sounding and the engine from going into limp mode? On the low oil sensors, thanks! Also would it be better to leave all the small hoses attached? They’d be sealed plus I’d be worried they’d pop off if there was a backfire through the carbs (not sure if that’s even possible with the reed valves)
Alarm doesn't sound for me when the tank is just not there.
i took my tank off and left wires unplugged no alarm or no limp mode. 2 stroke would
just be running like poop if it was bad
Hey man did u figure it out have the same problem as you
@@135-j 98 MERC 75CC 2 STROKE, just unplugged the hose feeding into the carb and stucked a drill bit to plug it, removed oil jug has ran good ever since. the oil injector messed up first time in the water so I fixed it this way on the trailer at the lake haha kinda easy way to do it
@@BooneParty 👍😂
Can you leave all the hoses attached after you removing the pin.
Good job getting rid of all that bullshit. My Merc has a dead cylinder now because of that stupid oil injection system. Its so easy to mix fuel yourself and it will save you thousands in the long run
The AUTOLUBE is no bullshit . very well designed . if it fail, you properly not have lubricate the oil pump and it getting stuck
So what oil ratio would you now run on this engine, now the oil injection is removed? Mines looks identical to this engine and is 40Hp. Thanks.
I don’t get 2:25. If that lever fails, shouldn’t the spring go where it does full oil injection? It seems backwards. My oil injector spring seems busted so I’m debating on just removing it all
At 3:25 you take out the arm in the pump. Do you also remove the tiny round brass or copper piece behind that?
What ratio are you mixing the gas to after? Thanks for the video very helpful!
50:1
Why cap all the holes ....If your going to mix your oil and gas now then just simply dissconnect the main oil feed line from oil tank and plug that one hose . Its a closed system so if your not sucking air or oil then you should be good to go . Actually you Will be good to go , did mine that way 15 years ago and works great . 3 min job
that is the red cap?
My sensor went out the other day. So I decided to delete the oil reservoir. I’ve been falling this guy for a long time now, I was extremely happy to find he had a video on this, because he does really good explanations on diy projects. After the vid I happen to see your comment and did won’t to do it the easiest way possible but after doing like you suggested, I realized it looked half ass. Hoses just dangling and I realized “the boat guy” showed how to properly do it, the way you expect a professional to do, or a guy your paying money to do it. No offense man but your way is half ass and lazy! I ended up doing it exactly like this vid, looks clean and professional!
@@muskbeard3924 ????? Loose hoses ????? You simply snip the hose on the oil tank which is Below deck and NOT VISABLE . Plug the hose or cap it and BE DONE . 1 hose to cap so where do you get Half ass and sloppy ??? Go your route and spend half the day tearing your motor apart as opposed to a 3 min job . I did mine that way 15 years ago , No problems. Long as you prime the gas hose afterwards and see the blue gas coming through before you connect gas line to your motor your golden .
Which hose is that? There's so many of them!
@@islandofboom5704 Which hose is what ? Dont touch any of the hoses on motor . Oil tank has 2 hoses , just plug or clip the one running to motor At the tank . Then add oil to gas tank 50 to 1. So if you have a 40 gal tank and it's half empty , add proper mixture for 20 gal ...Dissconect fuel line running to motor , squeeze ball until you see blue gas coming through .....reconnect fuel line and your finished
On the Tohatsu 50 can I just cut the two wires going in the reservoir, or will that trigger that sensor to go off?
Hey, I noticed a crack on your engine's intake manifold on the 2nd cylinder. Does it affect the performance? Asking because I have the same thing:)
hello eric i need some help with the oil pump adjustment on a yamaha 2 stroke 60 hp
Rather than use those little caps to cap off the pipes just leave the pipe on and use a bit of it to fold over and cable tie it off or on the pump just link one to the other ,,,,leave the carbs on and just again link them to each other or use part of the hose to fold over and cable tie it ,,easy. Removing the carbs cause hassle and damage the gaskets ,,,,,
Works good just trick the system to get that green lite. Float in oil reservoir.
eplain please?
The gear in the oil pump does Not just slide out. Also they are called vacume plugs.
Do I have to take the pump out
Is removing the lines from the pump to the carbs necessary if you plug the lines coming from the reservoir to the pump
Did you ever find a good answer for this I been wondering the same
Did u ever figure this question out
Been wondering the same
Yamaha makes one of the most reliable oiling systems out there. Just sayin’
All the pros do engine work on a furniture dolly , next to an interstate storm drain , with the wrong size vacuum caps , wearing sandles with socks
Till it’s not
What should I mix to? 50:1?
Hello Eric...Thanks for this video..its very good. I am trying to remove the oil inyection system on my Suzuki DT200 87'. I am doing similar to your process. However, this engine brings a hose from bottom to the top of crankcase...can I just take out this oil hose as well and cap it? Wouldnt be an issue to the engine gears??
I’m wondering the same thing
Love the videos. Basically have that same motor so alot of your videos have helped out alot. I've only been studying outboards for 2 months. I feel like I've learned alot but I know I have ways to go before I'm semi decent. Any recommendations on books to help me increase my knowledge
All thanx good idea... I DID IT FOR MY 200HP YAMAHA but without capping it just a fit screw and tie clamb
Is it ok if pull gear out block as well
Motor won't start with electrical disconnected. You have a video of the final assembly?
I've got a suxuki dt15c and mine doesn't seem to be sucking oil although it smokes like crazy any ideas what might be the problem
Hi i have a issue we my 1995 yamaha 90 2 stroke running foward they dont go more that 3500 RPM I remove the oil tank mixer i mix the oil we gas now ,i change the spark plugs i clean the carburattors ,i change the fuel line ,the prime i clean the little filter inside the motor,i check the fuel pump don have any hole on the diagfragm the compression on all 3 cillinder is 140 on each cilinder and is working better but not more than 3500 RPM, I dont know if is the CDI SAFE MODE or any other Issue,can you o any person here can help me PLEASE.
Thanks
Did you find help? I have similar outboard as you I'm doing this to right now.
Like anything else mechanical that we are blessed with..failure only occurs due to neglect and lack of maintenance or tampering on the part of the owner/operator that doesnt understand..My old Evinrude 2 stroke finally died after almost 25 years of faithful service and that was from normal wear and tear and high hours..and its oil injection pump after testing was found to operate just like new.
Same here. My 1991 Suzuki 65HP 2 stroke runs just fine with its oil injection pump connected. No mixing, no possibility for mistakes..simple as that.
Engine parts never fail. Keep commenting over and over, because your anecdotal experience isn’t worth shit.
@@deadlata9767 Yeah..and I suppose you have higher qualifications than my Aeronautical Engineering experience of almost 30 years?..Cut the crap pal and STOP JUDGING if you dont know the person first😁😁😁
Just be sure those openings by the carbs are getting air tight with the method you use to close these off..
You do NOT want air drawn in there when it's running.
Air leaks in a 2stroke,imminent destruction
What if shaft removed as in video and all lines still connected
I like your video. I have a 40 hp yamaha just like the one you got but I am having a problem with.it want run no longer than a minute an then it shut down an I don't know why it dose that.i wish you could give a answer to my problem.i would appreciate it
Is it OK if I just remove the oil pump completely and use a block off plate for that?
so what reason would you un hook the oil injection? my 50 smokes bad and has bad fumes
Shrek some oil injection systems cost over $500 so it's cheaper just to disable it and mix it yourself
@@kendrickminchew1855 Then run the risk of blowing your motors sealed main bearings because it HAS TO HAVE oil pump pressure to lube them and running premix WILL NOT lube them at all..A very expensive more than $500 BANG will occur
What is this good for ?
a lot of lakes have stopped letting boats run with out the oil injection . hell they want to do away with 2 stroke all together. but there is just to many out there. there is 2 of the largest lakes in Texas trying to make it a rule no oil injection not getting on the lake. and they going to get it .
why didnt you remove the inner drive shaft for the oil pump? that can cause a possible problem over time,leaving it in the motor.
Some say yeah some say not too
Know numerous people that didn’t remove inner drive shaft and have run 100s of hours no problem
Does it pull right out or what
@@135-j yea,it just pulls out, reinstall the pump as a blockoff.
@@harveynewman4333 and it’s just one piece
I’ve already pulled worm gear out pump but nothing out the block
@@135-j you remove the coller under the pump and you will see the shaft. it just pulls out.,reinstall coller for pump alignment and bolt on.
@@harveynewman4333 just remove the worm gear from inside the Pump and vacum cap all nipples on pump and all 3 on intake manifold to each cylinder
@ 2:50 the washer got stuck on your thumb and now its lost
Hi what fuel ration to oil is a 1986 90hp yam thanks
What fuel:oil mix should I use on a 2009 90 with this removed
50:1
good video i am trying to put oil injection on my 86 mariner. due to the emission laws. video very helpful.
I do it but now have the alarm beep beep all time . How I silence the oil alarm?
I asked 2 great mechanics about taking my oil system out of my 2007 115 they both said to leave it alone that it probably wouldn’t ever fail and how they never seen a Yamaha oil system fail on the newer 2 strokes before they quit making them
Okay that’s NEWER two strokes as u stated
great job i just did this to my dad 2004 40hp 2 stroke work just fine how much you for those 50 hp carb or can i put bigger jets to get more power ?
Motor still going?
Can you adjust the flow of oil that mixes
Can you ck the oiler while it is off the motor getting a 2 stroke rebuilt and want the oiler working?
great video. I would like some more info on this particular motor I just bought a skiff with this motor but it's not working at all and I know nothing about boat motors so any info would be greatly appreciated thank you
seaweed954 first you need to run a compression check to make sure the engine is anygood
eric edic I bought the boat pretty much for the hull . the previous owner took apart the motor some what. it Has no plugs in it and the back part is exposed I can see the pistons and housing it has a lil rust from it being left open.......I live in central Florida
Im in st.petersburg florida. If your interested in selling the motor text me at 727-286-0636
eric edic I'd like to get it running I want to learn how to work on boat motors this is the first boat I ever bought you know.
How about a 2005 50 hp johnson, any help or just the same idea to disconnect? many thanks!
Great Job Eric. my yama 80 hp 2 stroke. Shakes when I accelerate. Cleaned my carbies and jets, has good spark on all three cylinders, replaced coil packs, stator, cdi box, fuel pump but still no good. What do you think it could be and how to fix video? Cheers Dan
Daniel Duy Nguyen motor mounts
What was ur issue
what is the thing you remove from the oil pump in 3:28 and why do you remove it?
WantedReward that’s the gear I believe. If you’re doing a delete, pull it.
Question I have a nissan 2 stroke ob motor(basically same as yours) and that rod that is attached to the oil pump in your video..... on mine it was not attached because the plastic fitting broke. You said that as the throttle advances it shoots more oil into the carb. What if I do not repair this oil pump link rod will my motor blow up?
did it blow up?
@@BooneParty No. I fixed it. Put a new fitting on it. these are DAM good motors Several years ago my oil pump failed completely while I was leaving the marina it acted like it was seized up but was able to drive it several hundred feet back to dock. Manually premixed it and it fired up and I drove it for years before replacing the oil pump.
Great video, I have the exact engine. Thinking about doing this, as it has been sitting a very long time.
So how do you bypass limp mode
Just bought a boat and not sure if injection works so I was gunna make a mark on the plastic tank and and make my fuel tank 50:1 anyways and cheak if it goes down. If shes smokey i rather that then to lean and blow i up lol
Can I just simply put pre-mixed fuel (50:1) in the oil tank so that I do not have to try to disable oil injection?
No or you will catch on fire
Doesn't the oil level wires need to connect somehow? Make a loop or something?
No the float connects the system when its low to sound the buzzer.
Can u do a 2000 model 150 v max 2 stroke that is fuel injection
Do you work on other people outboard motor
I followed your and disconnected my oil injection system after my rebuild havent had oil injection before and no problems so why risk it going out on me .
Still running like that
WhT motor ?
I know this is a old video but will this work on Yamaha 130hp 2stroke?
can anyone help me, I disabled my oil injection, the motor idles great, but when i WOT, it bogs a bit then goes, but its defiantly using full power and very slugish when going full speed.
Those oil Pumps almost never go bad
Right? No reason for this...people are ignorant
Until they do
Does it work on yamaha tzr 50 ?
What’s wrong with just leaving the oil system the way it is, and then just mixing gas.
Do you do any 1996 25 HP 2 stroke Yamaha,s . I need a good power head
is there a way to just to easily disable it without taking it all out and caping it
just premix your gas
@@ThatBoatGuy is that pump lubed by the oil I suppose
Hence why the worm gear needs to come out
gotta ask, ,why would you not, just leave everything alone,, empty the tank, stop the alarm, and just run pre mix?
That’s what I do on my 97 Kawasaki 1100 jet ski. I still have the Oiler and I run a 50:1 premix
That make pliers with a bend in them to get those last two hoses
what is the main reason for removing the oil injection - do they fail?
Sometimes
I have eliminated alot of these self lubing engines. Basically the drive gear on the inside that is driven by the crank breaks and then leads to severe engine failure
What would be the mix ratio of oil and gas?
50:1
Came in handy appreciate it
Hi Eric I have a 140 evinrude that’s been disconnected. So if I reverse your steps I should be able to see if mine still works.
So what is the recommended Oil/Gas mixture for this engine after you bypass the pump?
2% tcw3 oil
so you put 200ml oil to 10 litres of benzin
50:1, 100ml oil to 5 ltrs petrol, only use tcw3 oil, i recommend quicksilver premium plus.
Caps or plugs air filter ,why couldn't just use one hose an plug other card with it ,it's a closed loop
So once you connect the carbs and motor back up how do you cold start the engine??
I have been spraying some Aerostart in the air filter. Is there an easier way..
Fred Bunny don’t spray any sort of engine start into the outboard ,,,it’s the worst thing you can ever do to an outboard ,,the engine start sprays destroy your engine seals ,,,and as time goes on you will need more and more spray to get it to start and in the end the engine will just fail to start or run at all ....please please don’t use engine start
@@bluefacewhiteboy thanks for the feedback. I stopped using aerostart years ago.
I really cannot understand why you would ever want to disconnect the oil injection system on any 2 stroke machine..Firstly the engine was made to operate with a variable amount of oil feed for all rpms from about 100:1 at idle to 20:1 at full power so the engine gets the optimal amount of lube it needs..Running a compromise premix fuel will always overload the engine with too much oil at low power settings causing more smoking..erratic running..deposits..plug fouling..and unnecessary use of more oil increasing the running costs..and if ill informed people say to me..BECAUSE THE OIL PUMP WILL/CAN FAIL..i reply to that as total BS because the oil injection pumps are built as good as Swiss watches internally and in all my almost 40 years running boats and motorbikes with oil injection,the only pump i ever seen fail was one that had been tampered with by the silly owner butchering it and he paid the price by melting his engine..Dont take them off,just look after them and they will never let you down.
Exactly...
@@2fast4you25 If the crank main bearings on Sea doos and other makes are sealed on one side like on Suzuki CCI 2 strokes and are ONLY fed oil directly by pump pressure then you run the risk of blowing up the bottom end if you remove the pump as premixed fuel cannot lubricate them..If Sea doo has faulty pump issues i would be seriously chasing it up with the manufacturer especially if 2 or more failures have occured.
@@2fast4you25 Well im sorry to digress but i know 2 people who operate old mid 90s model XP Sea doo Jet Skis here in Australia with the system connected and no major engine issues at all and one with very high hours before being rebuilt..They use expensive fully synthetic recommended oils and are high on proper maintenance..Engine failures here are mostly because cheap quality oils are used and people blame the pump and when its tested it works fine...And im sorry to say this but also owner neglect or lack of proper knowledge and maintenance also destroys fine machines too..Oil is cheap full engine rebuilds or replacements are not.
@@2fast4you25 The world went 4 stroke because of pollution issues with old school carburetted 2 strokes not because of the unreliability of 2 strokes..Thats why we now have the new generation KTM and HUSKY fuel AND OIL INJECTED 2 stroke dirt bikes..If oil injection was that unreliable then why do BIG manufacturers still use this system on current model machines?
because when the pump goes out and it will after 10 years or so, the engine will be blown before you have a chance to prevent it from overheating per my trusted mechanic friend with 40+ years of experience.
why not just disconnect the oil sensor and the wire that drives the pump?
Wondering the same thing. Would just disconnecting the wires to the sensor, drain oil, mix gas and go work?
Wire doesn’t drive to pump
Pump is mechanical did u miss that in the video, he takes the little worm gear out that drives pump off camshaft
I've done it to mine yamaha 90 what oil should I use for premix what do you recommend
Take the drive shaft out, under the pump then pre mix oil 50-1 wait for it to size 0r 75-1 /100-1 full synthetic oil.
Did u do it the exact way he showed in video
Want to do it to my 70yamahaa
Did anyone figure out what wires to cross , I removed the oil tank and premixed it but the alarm still sounds it’s getting plenty of oil cause it’s smoking a lot but would get out in the water it would go fine for a minute or so then the alarm would sound and it would go into limp mode
Is the alarm going off when it's running or just when you turn the key switch on? I can completely disconnect my oil float wire harness and it doesn't affect the motor. If the motor is running, and the oil float is disconnected, and an alarm is going off it is likely an overheat sensor. They're on the back of the motor near the top spark plug. Little plug in jobbys.
Why not just cut the hoses & cap the hoses
Have you ever done a video on how to diagnose why oil is leaking from the carbs on a 2 stroke like this Yamaha 40?
Float height
Did you ever figure out your oil leak problem?
In my case, it was because of gravity and suction. I had the motor laying on its side after I had removed the head and that was causing it to leak all out.
The black clip thing is a clevis.
Useful tenique to be fair
Eric you seem very knowledgable so I'd like to pick your brain for a sec. We have a 90HP Yamaha that idles fine below 2000 but once you go above that it falls on it's face. My husband has managed to eliminate the fuels system as the problem & all we are left with could be the carb is stopped up or it's the self oiler. I researched all day yesterday & found something that said it would do that if the self oiler was going bad, it's kind of like a safety mode to conserve oil. It prevents the engine from revving if there's not enough oil in the mix. I've saved this video & the one on cleaning the carbs will try those steps tonight. Your opinion?
hlduncan check the timing I had the same thing on a 15hp
TheMrkylester101 no timing. It's a 2 stroke. Just line the flywheel up with top dead center.
Thats not true. Yeah you verify tdc but you have to set the timing throttle closed and wide open but just cranking not running. If its wrong you can ruin the motor.
Are you sure that your motor isn't in "Limp" mode due to a low oil alarm? Yamaha will limit the rpm to below 2000 if it thinks there is low oil.
@@MrTomatrol Do you know how to bypass that? I just removed oil injection on a 90. Now I'm worried it will not work? I rebuilt the motor without experience and crossed my fingers... Lol
But Why? I am new here.
Seems to be alot of trouble, would rather just use it.
in california you could go to jail for 10 years
I never got why anyone would do this with a gravity Fed gear driven system.
I was told that with this type system that the bottom cylinder gets less oil than the upper two? He also said because of this it's most likely when you loose a cylinder it will be the bottom one. That was years ago. I recently had to rebuild my yammy 2 stroke 90 and it was the bottom cylinder that failed. Appeared to be over heated.
@@jws9321 is ur oil pump deleted on it
If so how long u been running it that way
Oh why,why,why do people do this......wear socks with sandals???
Texas is stupid you can't buy a project outbor motor to get it running and when you get to the lake the game worden will give you a 500 dollar ticket
And it doesn't matter if you said I wasn't sure if it wasn't going to work testing it out
never understood why people do this
They are worried if there is a problem with the pump or lines it will ruin the engine. They mix the oil with the gas themselves. You still need oil for the bottom end of the engine too.
+ Slippreygritz They pretend they know better than the engineers.. :-)
+ Uptin Sinclaire The chances of them forgetting to add the oil to the fuel on each fill-up is much greater then the chances of the oil injection system to fail if the engine is maintained properly.
@@reyyanataergin1364 How can you forget to add oil? You do it every time you fill up. You NEVER add gas without oil. Chances are the injection pump will fail before you forget to add oil.
atari8 warez I have a 1990 and had the same mind set you did until last weekend when it failed and my engine lost power and shut itself off in the matter of 10 seconds. Luckily it didn’t seize and it seems to be ok for now but I won’t risk it again. I just had the big tank pump replaced and the whole system freshened up and still it happened. My issue is electrical nothing is telling the pump to turn on and it just so happened for some reason the float on my engine tank stuck. I can run 12v to the pump and it works so it’s just a wire or something but I won’t risk it again. It’s to simple just to dump in oil before leaving to go get the gas unless you are a moron in which case you probably shouldn’t own a boat anyway because it take a good bit of common sense to keep up with one.
You have the absolute worst outboard repair videos anywhere. Why would you disconnect the best oil inection system in the business no need to.
thx for viewing my videos troll I'm getting paid for you to watching my videos.
by the way, evinrude makes the best oil injection system in the business and have years of reliability to back it up.
We remove every Yamaha oil injection pump. They have and will fail.
Not the best. Mine failed, and cost me an engine.
i just sold a 1989 150 2 stroke that is still working and never failed.
Are you playing backyard mechanic Put tending That You know what you're doing
That is how you do it. What are you talking about
Put tending
I am not trolling I only watched 2 videos couldn't go any farther. Give them there money back
Disconnecting oil injection on any outboard (except Johnson/Evinrudes) is a bad move. First of all, the systems are almost bullet proof. Too many people just don't know how to diagnose them. Especially Yamaha (the injection system is actually tied into the trim sensor!). These systems are variable ratio (meaning they deliver less oil at lower rpms (a good thing!), they deliver the actual amount of oil for the given throttle demand. When folks disable these systems and self mix, they end up using too much oil "to be sure"; that contributes to sticking rings, excess carbon, and less than optimum performance. Also, the oil modules for these systems have to be "tricked" so you don't get warning buzzer. It's just not a smart move.
If you're really a certified tech, then you of all people should recognize how prone to failure this injection system is, especially on older outboards.
@@lancehughes4132 Well Lance, I'm not sure what benefit there would be in lying about my career? Isn't the idea here to try and pass on helpful information? I'm telling you oil injection failure is extremely rare. Now water contamination in oil reservoirs, over oiling of OMC VRO pumps because you blow the fuel diaphragm with lean spits, improper supply tubing on a system with check valves....all those things happen, and 99% of the time, those failures are in the captain's seat. Just because you blow your power head, and you and/or you techs lack the ability to properly diagnose the real cause of the failure, that's no reason to remove good functioning oil injection systems.
I know some two cycle engines have an oil feed line to some of the crankshaft bearings. So if you disable the oil injection system it will cut off lube to those bearings. Premixed fuel won't get enough oil into those bearings. Besides oil injection is one of the best things to ever happen to a two cycle engine. And Yamaha's are among the very best, they don't fail! Ever! If you have an engine failure it's not the oil injection's fault, it's intake air leaks, carburetor problems, water in fuel, poor fuel, timing is off, bad or wrong spark plugs, wrong plug gap, etc.
What about the oil sencor?