my 1998 Jeep grand Cherokee after many tests and a few weeks of stress and thinking it was something to do with the fuel delivery i stumbled across this lovely video and now my jeep runs like a charm thank you very much for the help!
I could feel your frustration from here and I think you speak for all of us who get sick of crap. Rock on Eric, your one of the good guys who is making a difference. I'm looking forward to Steve's video on Thursday. I know where he was. :)
Eric, the adds used to be at front and/or back of your videos. You are humble but what you do is quite complex by times. I think I speak for everyone when I say you might try and see if your adds are placed in between your introduction/ background and your beginning your diagnosis/repair. Advertising anyplace else ought be right at beginning or all the way at the end. That is just my take friend - keep up the good work, thank you for your diligence and kindness.
You taught me some things I didn't know about my Cherokee. Don't need a code reader, and where that sensor was located! Thanks I'll be checking out some of your other videos. Great job.
@@SouthMainAutoplease please your help with my 1993 jeep Cherokee xj. I turn the key to “on” I have to wait till I hear a tick,tick.tick at the fuse box under the hood near battery, then immediately I hear the fuel pump prime then and only then will it start . The warmer outside it is the less time this cycle takes. 🙏 I don’t have a no crank issue.
There is an easy way by going under the dash by the center console. There is a little access door. It gets you right to the crank sensor. I have had to replace mine twice. Good luck if this comes up again.
There is also the case when the crank sensor functions well and the car has no problems until the engine fully warms up. That is the time the car shuts off and will crank but not start until it cools down. That is a bad sensor case too. What I believe is happening is that it is thermally sensitive to temp cycling. A crank sensor has coils inside around a magnet. Coils are being stretched when hot, then contracted when cold. They might have small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and stop the coil’s ability to function. It is common to misidentify a crank fault with a cam fault and vise versa. Therefore a P0340 code could be a crank sensor or a cam sensor fault. But a P0320 is the classic crank sensor code. If you have a digital scope you can test these sensors one by one. Generally, on Chryslers (many different models) the wiring for the cam and crank sensors is: The middle wire (Black/blue or DkBlue/DkGreen) is sensor ground. The (Violet/Red or Yellow/Pink) is 5V reference = the 5V power feed. It is the right wire when you look at it with the locking tab on the top. The (Tan/Yellow or DkBlue/Gray) is the cam 5V signal. It is the left wire when you look at it with the locking tab on the top. Disconnect the sensor harness and check these 3 wires (front probe on the connector) with a multimeter one at a time with the key in "ON" position to see the integrity of the harness. You should be getting zero volts in the middle and 5 volts on the other two sides. If you do, that means the PCM and the wire harness is okay up to the sensor. Then, connect the sensor to the harness (can be on or out of the engine) and back probe it and if you get less than 5V on the signal wire, that means it is a shorted crank sensor. Using a ferrous material such as a thick wrench or pry bar or chisel near it and far from it you can test its transistor switch (by electromagnetism) in relation to voltage. Measure voltage on its signal wire. It should be 5V when the ferrous material is far from it and when you touch the ferrous material on the front of the sensor the voltage should be dropping to zero. It will be pulling the signal low as it goes closer. ---Regarding the ground wire to have a fault is slim to none. Same as the 5V reference. The ground wire should be zero or near zero before cranking and we are looking for a 0.1V or 0.2V during cranking. ---The 5V reference should be 5V steady power feed before cranking and after cranking. ---The signal wire like I said before should show 5V before cranking and if it doesn't, that means the sensor is bad. If you do get 5V it doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is good until you check the signal during cranking too. The signal wire from near 5V before cranking should be having a square wave between 5V & 0V during cranking. If you don't see the alternating 5V to 0V to 5V and so on, it means the sensor is bad. Use the scope to about half a second time base to see the graph. Another way to test which sensor is bad (instead of testing individual sensors) is by using a high end scanner such as the Verus Edge and select it to display Camshaft Counts (CMP COUNT) and Crankshaft Counts (CKP COUNT) during cranking. And don't forget the case i mentioned first when the crank sensor functions well and the car has no problems until the engine fully warms up. First paragraph.
As soon as I saw the title of the video, I thought "crank sensor" - it's the classic cause of crank no start on Jeeps. Amazing that the owner of the Jeep was willing to go to the trouble of changing the ignition coil himself, but it didn't occur to him to pull a fault code or Google the problem, which would almost certainly have pointed him to the crank sensor. Still, that helps make work for people like Eric O!
I put a BWD fuel pressure regulator in a Sonoma. The fuel trims are now at +20% because it's regulated for 50psi, now I get to do it again! Thanks BWD!
Hi Eric,I like your rant about the Chinese parts being crap.I have had the same problem with the connectors snapping together .I thought it was because I was just to weak to snap it in.Lol
My brother had the same problem with the wheel speed sensor for his ABS on a BMW X5. Couldn't get the connectors to click close, ended removing the no name sensor and replaced with OEM parts.
I had the same problem with aftermarket connectors & I must take them apart numerous times b/c I think the reason they aren't going together is a possible bent pin until finally it is either it's going to get clipped together or it's going to have a few zip-tie accessories.
I have that same original vantage. I have the last software to 2003 I think it's when they stopped updating it. had a brickbox 2500 and this vantage those tools Combined In 2001 when I was 19 I was a bad a**. I recently managed Is a shop shop before I started my own. the guys all laughed at me and said that thing was outdated. I laughed at them and said let's see your fluke do this And has some cool connector pin out Tech info. sorry Young guys don't mess with a man and it's old tools. It was on a 4.0 and I mapped injector pulse To prove to our resident know-it-all that had a bad injector. cause I could spray carb clean and it would pick up. if I underplug The injector No idle change Didn't need that tool to figure that out but Teaching class is always fun Thank you sir your videos are amazing You're wiring and circuit diagnostic skills are as good as It gets
i need to get better at diagnosing I would of just check injectors with my node light and I would of sold a sensor 10 out of 10. so far but I need to slow down and check. my wires. Good job keep up the good work.
As always Great Job Eric O! And I can't agree with you more about the crappy Chinese parts. Can't tell you how many times I have purchased parts only to have the wire to short or the connector not right or it just doesn't work! But your videos are excellent so keep them coming!
HAHA! yeah did a crank sensor on one of these Jeeps for a friend. He told me it was the problem so I changed it. After getting up in there and getting it changed I found it wasn't the problem. Told him TY for the extra unneeded work!
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP After I replaced the cam sensor it started and ran. He had already worked on it so some stuff was already messed before. But that fixed it.
1st thing always check fuel rail for pressure.... but after that...The fastest way to check crank sensor is put a test light on the fuse box under the hood rear center 20a fuse if that turns on when you wind the engine over you crank sensor is good, if it turns on, next thing is ohm your coil out if it's out of spec its bad replace it. Also one check under dis cap, make sure dis shaft is not loose..... jeeps are easy to diagnose and repair... with the 4.0 you can easily fix it in 30mins if you have the parts on hand... crank sensor is #1 problem #2 is coil to check the computer just use test light to ground signal wire from cps you should hear clicking and everything getting ready to fire if you dont check comp fuse, if it's good your computer may have took a dump...test with known good one before buying a new one... very seldom you see a bad cam pos sensor... jeeps are so easy to work on it's a piece of cake.....
Might be lots of ckp sensor vids out there, but not one with a made in China rant on it!!! i think I'm the only one in my shop that goes off on this cheap china parts rant too. It's like you cant even get decent stuff anymore even if you want to pay more for it..... I'm right there with you on the quality of parts these days Eric O
Having pushed my Cherokee around with a bad crank sensor I can confirm they do not roll well. Haha. Great tip on the tac not working, and like three feet of extensions to get the ratchet behind the transfer case is the way to do it. Having done this sensor twice going OEM seems to be the best bet.
Had nothing but problems with "BWD". Did a starter solenoid on my old Bronco II and it had hair line cracks though out the plastic. Went to tighten the battery/starter pole connections- It promptly fell apart under very very slight torque to snug the nuts down. Wound up going to NAPA and getting their "gold" line (more junk....it fused the solenoid contacts after the 3rd start....) 3rd time was a charm and got one that worked...
It might be made in China, but the specification were done by BWD. The only way to solve this problem is to quit buying inferior parts, but that cheap price as compared to OEM is so intoxicating, that we always choose cheap over quality. Great video as always and it appears that Chloe is a regular member of the family.
It's just as likely that the BWD specs were spot on, but the manufacturing was let out to a shop with poor ability to control tolerances. Still a BWD problem in the end.
Ive found taking the shifter linkage loose and out of the way works good then a chunk of twine dropped down on the driver side to tie to the harness and you can pull the harness around the back of the engine works well
I was so excited when I found this video. Jeep had been running when parked last week but would not start and multiple scanners didn't show any codes. With the key method I finally learned P0320 was the cause. Got the bolt out without too much trouble using the inside access method, but I am stuck at the cussing and cursing part. I am amazed how stuck it is and prying is just not doing it. Is there a best method for getting the sensor out without breaking it off?
I guess this was filmed before the camera took a fall/hit while plowing with the H since you can see what the camera sees. That job had to be a pisser I imagine! Great video as always. Keep'em comin'!
South Main Auto Repair Figured it was. Probably wasn't worth it to send in to get a new flip screen. Also you should periodically format your sd cards when you empty them to avoid them becoming corrupt.
You should have a tribute to it and then have a send off the SMA way and "format" it. All filmed with the replacement for your viewers' pleasure of course.
Hey Eric....is there a way to tell if it’s the crank sensor if I don’t have the equipment that you have...it’s a 96 grand Cherokee....sometimes starts and sometimes doesn’t
Mine was PCM "powertrain control module" on firewall right behind coolant bottle. I replaced every little parts I threw at it and gave up, took to shop the mechanic said bad o2 sensor but still same problem so I google up it was pcm!!! The pcm threw fake codes that's why mechanic depends on his code reader!!! Bought mine rebuilt pcm off of Amazon. The motherboard in pcm gone bad with crack or broken solders.
I woke my chow Samson up when I laughed so hard when the key was off just b/c I've done that more than once. Hmmm I have no voltage to none of my pins I'm onto something...oh yea let me turn the key "on" crap! Glad to see the customer agreed to a new crank sensor b/c putting in a used one if I'd have done it would immediately have with it a warranty good until it rolled out the door but then again some aftermarket sensors are like playing craps with crap. Nice video and definitely entertaining!
for the home DIY guys with no scope; you can back-probe the CKP sensor Signal wire, and turn the engine by hand, and watch for the change from 5v to 0v to 5v on a meter.
i had a similar problem on my sisters jeep it was a fault in the security system in the rear hatch.you had to unlock the rear hatch by key everytime you wanted to start it..just thought id mention it..great vids
I was about to write that, the ZJ, and probably the WJ chassis's had a access panel under the dash specifically to gain access to that sensor. unfortunately not on the old XJ's, it's a PITA to get to it.
I never knew about that technique of turning the key 4 (?) times to get it to display a fault code. Is that a Chrysler thing or do (some) other cars do it too?
Just throwing it out there, but rule #1 for crank sensors on all the Jeep forums is "Mopar sensor ONLY". Rule #2 is "See rule #1". Yes, the Mopar sensors are FAR more expensive, but Jeeps are notoriously picky about their engine-critical sensors and non-Mopar crank sensors are famous for rapid failure (as in less than a year). The forums are full of tales of woe from people who went with an aftermarket sensor and either it failed within months or they suffered poor/intermittent bad running until they went with a Mopar sensor and all the problems went away. It's such a PITA changing a Jeep crank sensor that it makes sense to pony up for the OEM sensor and be pretty sure you won't have to do it again in the lifetime of the vehicle. If you search around YT I think you can find a video that goes into this subject in depth and puts a scope on an OEM and aftermarket crank sensor to demonstrate the difference in waveforms.
Oh man that poor Jeep. I live in Hawaii (salty air, of course) and I'm glad mine doesn't look that. There's a few bubbles starting up, but nothing I can't hit with a grinder.
hey man honestly the most helpful video I've seen cause I have a 1993 jeep grand cherokee v8 5.2 and I could really use some advice on how exactly to do this...thank you
great video ...love the attitude and sarcasm...makes the video that much better...so true though on using garbage parts. To put the icing on the cake, have you ever run into getting a new part that is faulty. This is where you feel like losing your mind. You are diagnosing an electrical problem through trial and error only to find the part that you are relying on is broken or faulty so then you trouble shoot to the next possibility only to realize that you were right in the first place but the part was chinese garbage. Dont know how you can do this job day and day out. I feel your pain. And if you are a guy that gets paid by the job, you have more time into the job than you should so you lose money they need higher standards.
Hey Eric, I have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with a 4.0,4WD,A/T.....have had an intermittent start, stall and jerk. Took it to shop and they probably put one of those BWD CPS on it. Ran ok for a week but had a louder exhaust sound and it jerked from 3rd gear to OD plus it stalled a few times in the driveway. Was going to see if the ECM would learn the new CPS and adjust itself. Two days later it would never start again. Shop said it had fuel pressure and I could smell gas. Pulled coil wire and did the arc test so has spark. One thing I haven't done is watch the tach though so I have now replaced the distributor recommended by the shop. Its a Car Quest. Thought I installed it right. Had a Code 54 which pointed to the CPS and distributor. Still no start so I thought it might be the aftermarket CPS which I have read that they go bad very quick and the shop owner agreed so I put a Mopar CPS in it and still no start. The shop owner did say to make sure that the distributor is in properly and not a tooth off. So now Im fooling with the distributor and its way off now. I have the No.1 spark plug out and most of the time I have no one to assist me. What is that tool called that you thread into the spark plug hole and whistles to let you know that you are on the compression stroke? Thought I heard some click in the relay fuse box. You don't think that the Auto Shutdown Relay is a culprit do you? One last thing, even though the timing is computer controlled, is there a mark on the harmonic balancer so I can get TDC...?
I'm with you on the crap parts. I'v found removing the right inner fender well makes it easy to replace. Also in a perfect world. OE crank sensors on Jeep is the only way to go. I've seen to many problems with after market crank sensors on jeeps. As I'm sure you have to.
I changed mine in 15 minutes... drop shifter cable, remove from bracket and you can get your hand up there... reassembly was simple , bwd small amount of silicon Greasemonkey male side and it snaps right in. Job done .
I've had faulty parts from the dealer so the aftermarket is sometimes my first choice. I have to admit though, you have to own the noisiest shop in town, w/ all that passing traffic, lawn service etc.
I tried replacing mine - I even bought the Mopar sensor. But in order to actually replace it since it sits at the top of the bell housing, you need the greased hands of a Chinaman. I ended up giving up and taking it to the dealer to install after two days of "vocabulary exploration". I was SO hoping you would have shown how to replace it, but as you've experienced, it's a pain
Hi I am in need of help I have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 was having starting issues and dieing out one day with death shake. Believe it was fuel pump. Replaced it workd for a day and half. Then started no crank no start up thing so followed that path with crank sensor started cranking but no start replaced asd relay same issue still. Replaced started same issue. Replaced cam sensor same issue. had friend helping today did see that fuel pressure is good. Just cranks and cranks still.
cool video Eric! China parts are the norm now and days as you know it. Bought many parts from dealership Ford to be exact, air bag module, 04 Ford crown Victoria. oh I think it cost $235.00- $280ish made in China! I had to think did I just get it from a dealership! did they get it from AutoZone? haha nope just China, straight from the boat! I'm sure the part cost the dealership $ 29.99 haha.
I have had bad luck with BWD combination switches for our 99 cavalier. I went through five of them granted the lights are on 30 plus hours a week at night. Soo after getting fed up with the crap I went and got the ACDELCO switch for $148.00 and installed it since I got sick of reinstalling the cheap 55 dollar one from Autozone and cheaper switch from Advanced. Well I'm pretty sure tthe autozone was bwd just in a autozone box after all the part number is located in same spot on both switches. It has been over two months with the OEM and still running strong. Same problem a shop here in town had with a chevy van of some sort and went to the OEM switch and that lasted 6 months sooo it is what it is. Oh yea the switches failed in the same fashion, the lows would not stay on unless the handle was held in its sweet spot and after a while they would stay on it was shitty well take care Eric O.
Hey Eric ... nice vid , I can feel your pain on that crank sensor as I have done several...also have 3 jeeps of my own, that being said I also like using OEM parts but not always practical as I had to change a crank sensor on my kids 97 Cherokee in the street on the Oregon Coast...not fun
I'm interested to know if it worked for any length of time. I replaced mine with an aftermarket one and it lasted about 60 miles and then got an original Mopar one.
You mentioned in the beginning of the video, the security light is not blinking. What was the fix for those particular problems? My jeep has intermittent start issues from time to time and that's exactly what happens when it doesn't want to start. I'll add that when security light blinks I hear a buzzing noise. The starter is brand new though with everything connected properly
One of the advantages of DIY is being able to choose your parts- not like a Shop, that is at the mercy of a Parts Vendor. Being hesitant to let you diagnose it- tells you the Customer isn't familiar with your work; a correct and timely repair is crucial at these times, to make a good first impression, and assure a returning Customer. Word of mouth is the cheapest and most powerful form of advertising; all it takes is a satisfied Customer. This repair was simple- compared to an older GM like my Buick, where you're pulling brackets, Harmonic Balancer, fighting the old part off, then adjusting the air gap on the new- unless you have the special "J-Tool" to set it.
Well unfourtunatly this customer told me he is never come to my shop again. Evidently 3 days after he left my shop the rear tranny line rusted off it and started leaking and he was told it was all my fault. After I declined to pay for it out of my pocket for him to have it fixed somewhere else he decided to not come back. Hey , whatever. I did the best job I could. I got it running. I charged a fair price and I didn't make it rust out. Life goes on.
+South Main Auto Repair you should be glad that he never comes back, if thats what passes for logical thinking from him. And I couldnt agree more with you about foreign made junk. Bwd, smp, duralast, echlin, etc. all junk. Its so depressing everytime i see that "made in china" crap on a product.
The fact that he went to another shop first before coming back to you and saying, hey my tranny is leaking now, says it all. Add that to the fact that he was parts swapping and couldn't figure it out either says he doesn't know what he's doing or his "other shop" doesn't know what they're doing. It's disappointing when someone says something like that but I have to believe the quality work you do keeps you plenty busy without him.
Hello, Thank you so much for this video... I did replaced my crank sensor for my 03 grand cherokee 4.0 with your video walk-through... Unfortunately, I'm still getting engine misfires throwing P1391 code on the dash this time. I got a BWD brand crank sensor you used on this video ... The initial code problem was P0320. After I replaced the crank sensor it did start & ran then a different problem code arose.. Long story short, to date I've replaced 3 different parts respective to the P codes it was giving namely: Crank sensor (BWD) , Cam sensor (mopar) , & ignition coil pack (delphi) since it gave those problem codes as well after I replaced the crank sensor at first. Anyhow, the engine starts & runs then misfires/shakes after a bit of driving. Kindly let me know what you think when you get a chance. Do you supposed it is necessary to get the original part( crank sensor) for this ? Thank you much! Reuben PS. Do these (newly replaced) sensors need reprogramming with PCM? Read more
I did a speed sensor on my 99 Sable with the DOHC without dropping the subframe laying on my back,4 hrs later it was in but i hope i never have to do it again 1/4 turn at a time and each time the wrench fell because there was not enough room for my fingers to hold it once it turned then the connector was half way up the firewall so i had to get a piece of wire and spiral it around the upper connectot while trying to line it up and push it in with a screwdriver while doing this i was being lazy trying to work around the 02 sensor and broke the top of it off and that was another project because that also lays half up the firewall and the only way to get the connector in was to go through the pass wheel well with the connector taped to a long piece of 1in pvc pipe and that click was one of the best sounds i ever heard when it went in.
I had similar problem no fire on 2000 cherokee 4.0 thought pcm was out or crank sensor took light tester to fuse box had power to fuel pump but nothing on injectors, put jumper wire to horn fuse and ran to injector fuse. Started right up. So checked pcm fuse it was bad. Also can by pass pcm if needed, if fuel pump fuse shows no power or injector fuse, run jumper from any live fuse horn ect. To fuel pump or injectors fuse they become live and can start to get you home it does work saved my butt today. Hope helps
Eric...do me a favor...drink lots of beer when ya get home...great video ..cheers for the videoing, editing , screening , and uploading.....that probably took more time to do than the job itself .......DRINK SOMETHING !!!!
Eric Just change engine after 3 pistons failed.I tested Crank sensor Just like you did, and it tested out. power on both leads unplugged and back probed. Still no start. No voltage at Coil, Just tested injectors (no power) did compression test all 6 cylinders 150+. When testing wires from PCM to Power distribution box, dumb luck plugging in 1 PCM wire harness the ASD relay clicked, Yea start it up. Crap NOPE no start. Do we need a new PCM?
I have a 2000 jeep and it's not rusty at all 172 k so far not one issue with it other then I just had a new radiator put in old one leaked bad the hood struts on this one still hold up the hood Ac is working too also no strange electrical issues but all maintenance is done on time. I even run a synthetic oil in it wash it weekly.
I shiver every time I see BWD on a package. It's literally the same at Standard Motor Products T-Series garbage (same manufacturing line). I've found SMPs normal (read: expensive) line to be pretty good most of the time, but with prices sometimes approaching dealer parts, I tend to call it "good in a pinch."
I know what you mean about off shore replacement parts and you're right about lots of videos on jeep crank sensors but I like yours the best. At least you tested it. BWD=Broken when delivered....HaHaHa
I saw it coming in the early 90s. Bendix, aimco rotors started to go away at the local parts stores. The counter guy would say the Korean / Chinese rotors have lifetime warranty... great I love taking my brakes apart every two months because my teeth are chattering down the Highway! 🇺🇸🇯🇵🇨🇳
Have you ever seen a crank sensor go bad intermittently? I have code 0320 on my PT Cruiser and it dies randomly and sometimes will crank but not start and then will randomly start up and run again. I'm trying to confirm that it either is or is not the sensor (maybe bad wiring instead) but I'm kinda at a loss due to the intermittent nature of the problem.
Man I spend a month tracking down the problem and it was failure to use a Mopar CMP. I ran fresh Mopar 16ga, insulated wiring with freshly lain loom. the signal off the crank is important to recall to tap signal to the transmission as it uses crank signal, as well as, PCM. My signals when tested showed incredibly distorted signal barely readable. No need to tap signal with a probe, if your using an Oscope they make a clamp on induction probe clips over the wiring. The signal was so bad it looked like static. On both CMP and CKP. I spent 15- 20 hours and guess what I was using? a third party CMP red box SMP it was worthless. I also ran new 5v DC, signal, and clean ground to connection points. All that and it was a freaking weak third party non mopar factor sensor was the problem. Now I get clean uniform signal easily discernable. One good thing? was I bought a bi-directional multi platform TopDon diagnostic device with Factory level, trans mission relearn, also I had some funky injector fuses. 200k across a fuse??? That alone improved gas mileage. The injector relearn and trans relearn smoothed out shifting into and out of park. No more clunking or drawn out engagement off of idle into drive. Oh and the real boner? I installed a new PCM from flash masters that really smoothed out operation. Only makes. Sense to install an updated PCM as this is the 3rd enjine it was an expensive month but lesson learned and my jeep runs better than an HO I was let try. I've got a cam and 08 intakes and solid lifters etc ..... Etc..... etc......etc etc. a note, the PCM is truly a marvel. All those mods, e new engine and a trans torque delete and no probl3m!
I have a 94 and 96 Grand Cherokee.Both with V8s.I went to two shops to get a full tune up on the 94.Cap,rotor, wires, plugs One said the did't even want to do it.The other said its so hard to get to that they wanted $600 to do it.The stuff is so crammed in there that it is a nightmare to work on.
Oh man, it's only been 6 days, but feels like forever since I last watched a video of yours!Great as always. I have replaced quite a few of these in my life, and I also always seem to struggle as much as you say. I own a Liberty, and had to replace the CKS on it. Marginally easier, but still a B!£$&.
If I were to buy a vehicle and it came from New York would you recommend buying it not to offend you or anything but I see a lot of rust on them and they are fairly new vehicles
question....I finally got my interior electrical components to working again and after watching this video I tried the switch to check for codes....I got 12....but there's no check engine light on, so does that mean it's all good?! thanks!!
I just fixed my '02 wj i followed your procedures, turns out to be the camshaft position sensor. Thank you so much your videos help a whole lot again thank you:)
Great video! If I pay your way out to Ct will you diagnose my jeep crank but no start? Kind of a long story but will try to give you the condensed version. I bought the car with a blown motor, did a rebuild on the 4.7 got it running. On start up noticed the fan was running at full speed at idle. Also alt was not charging, the code was p0017 or low voltage at coolant temperature sensor. I started chasing down wires and found the pin on the ecm for the cts had no power.I figured must be the ecm so I replaced that, however nothing changed still no power at cts pin. I tried to take juice from the map sensor but that set off the skim now I get a crank but no start. I went through the grounds they are all clean and tight, tried even running new grounds to the ecm/bcm nothing. I tried the reset ecm numerous times still nothing. The next thing I'm going to try is to have the ecm programmed without the skim as a last resort. Ha- ha this was supposed to be a easy project! Might have bit of more than I can chew. Lol! My contact info is jhar10423@gmail.com Thank you
This is why SMA is so busy all the time Eric. Customers bring you the tough jobs because they know you can do it. Another great video as usual.
my 1998 Jeep grand Cherokee after many tests and a few weeks of stress and thinking it was something to do with the fuel delivery i stumbled across this lovely video and now my jeep runs like a charm thank you very much for the help!
I was wondering if a symtom of this is “ the jeep will start after a few minutes or 20 if key is put to on “?
This is probably the first video I ever watched on SMA... I've been a loyal follower ever since.
I could feel your frustration from here and I think you speak for all of us who get sick of crap. Rock on Eric, your one of the good guys who is making a difference. I'm looking forward to Steve's video on Thursday. I know where he was. :)
Oh man, how did you get the insider info!?
I'm a stalker. lol Nah, Steve hinted to it in his last video. I just pay attention.
Eric, the adds used to be at front and/or back of your videos. You are humble but what you do is quite complex by times. I think I speak for everyone when I say you might try and see if your adds are placed in between your introduction/ background and your beginning your diagnosis/repair. Advertising anyplace else ought be right at beginning or all the way at the end. That is just my take friend - keep up the good work, thank you for your diligence and kindness.
You taught me some things I didn't know about my Cherokee. Don't need a code reader, and where that sensor was located! Thanks I'll be checking out some of your other videos. Great job.
on the back of the engine upper bell-housing of trans drivers side
Thank you so much for showing me how to pull up the engine code on the odometer. I was able to figure out that my idle air sensor is going out.
As usual you took a mundane subject and turned it into an interesting video. Thanks Eric, your the best.
Thanks man
Comes in with a no start, gas light on. Love it!
Typical M.O.
@@SouthMainAutoplease please your help with my 1993 jeep Cherokee xj. I turn the key to “on” I have to wait till I hear a tick,tick.tick at the fuse box under the hood near battery, then immediately I hear the fuel pump prime then and only then will it start . The warmer outside it is the less time this cycle takes. 🙏 I don’t have a no crank issue.
going down the road and feal'in bad. chin up man,your the best!
don't you love it when people try to tell you what's wrong but can't fix it themselves lol
Haha you just tell me what part to change and I will do it!
There is an easy way by going under the dash by the center console. There is a little access door. It gets you right to the crank sensor. I have had to replace mine twice. Good luck if this comes up again.
Great video. I'm really digging the hood proprod
There is also the case when the crank sensor functions well and the car has no problems until the engine fully warms up. That is the time the car shuts off and will crank but not start until it cools down. That is a bad sensor case too. What I believe is happening is that it is thermally sensitive to temp cycling. A crank sensor has coils inside around a magnet. Coils are being stretched when hot, then contracted when cold. They might have small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and stop the coil’s ability to function.
It is common to misidentify a crank fault with a cam fault and vise versa. Therefore a P0340 code could be a crank sensor or a cam sensor fault. But a P0320 is the classic crank sensor code. If you have a digital scope you can test these sensors one by one. Generally, on Chryslers (many different models) the wiring for the cam and crank sensors is:
The middle wire (Black/blue or DkBlue/DkGreen) is sensor ground.
The (Violet/Red or Yellow/Pink) is 5V reference = the 5V power feed. It is the right wire when you look at it with the locking tab on the top.
The (Tan/Yellow or DkBlue/Gray) is the cam 5V signal. It is the left wire when you look at it with the locking tab on the top.
Disconnect the sensor harness and check these 3 wires (front probe on the connector) with a multimeter one at a time with the key in "ON" position to see the integrity of the harness. You should be getting zero volts in the middle and 5 volts on the other two sides. If you do, that means the PCM and the wire harness is okay up to the sensor. Then, connect the sensor to the harness (can be on or out of the engine) and back probe it and if you get less than 5V on the signal wire, that means it is a shorted crank sensor. Using a ferrous material such as a thick wrench or pry bar or chisel near it and far from it you can test its transistor switch (by electromagnetism) in relation to voltage. Measure voltage on its signal wire. It should be 5V when the ferrous material is far from it and when you touch the ferrous material on the front of the sensor the voltage should be dropping to zero. It will be pulling the signal low as it goes closer.
---Regarding the ground wire to have a fault is slim to none. Same as the 5V reference. The ground wire should be zero or near zero before cranking and we are looking for a 0.1V or 0.2V during cranking.
---The 5V reference should be 5V steady power feed before cranking and after cranking.
---The signal wire like I said before should show 5V before cranking and if it doesn't, that means the sensor is bad. If you do get 5V it doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is good until you check the signal during cranking too. The signal wire from near 5V before cranking should be having a square wave between 5V & 0V during cranking. If you don't see the alternating 5V to 0V to 5V and so on, it means the sensor is bad. Use the scope to about half a second time base to see the graph.
Another way to test which sensor is bad (instead of testing individual sensors) is by using a high end scanner such as the Verus Edge and select it to display Camshaft Counts (CMP COUNT) and Crankshaft Counts (CKP COUNT) during cranking.
And don't forget the case i mentioned first when the crank sensor functions well and the car has no problems until the engine fully warms up. First paragraph.
Lots of good info. Thanx!
As soon as I saw the title of the video, I thought "crank sensor" - it's the classic cause of crank no start on Jeeps. Amazing that the owner of the Jeep was willing to go to the trouble of changing the ignition coil himself, but it didn't occur to him to pull a fault code or Google the problem, which would almost certainly have pointed him to the crank sensor. Still, that helps make work for people like Eric O!
I put a BWD fuel pressure regulator in a Sonoma. The fuel trims are now at +20% because it's regulated for 50psi, now I get to do it again! Thanks BWD!
I put a duralast coolant temp in my s10 and it read lower than it should.
***** That sounds typical!
nice to see u getting frustrated and pissed off.. can't always be happy expecially when you're working on junk with junk parts.. I feel ya!
Hi Eric,I like your rant about the Chinese parts being crap.I have had the same problem with the connectors snapping together .I thought it was because I was just to weak to snap it in.Lol
Me too. I always thought there was some sort of trick to it that I didn't know.
My brother had the same problem with the wheel speed sensor for his ABS on a BMW X5. Couldn't get the connectors to click close, ended removing the no name sensor and replaced with OEM parts.
I had the same problem with aftermarket connectors & I must take them apart numerous times b/c I think the reason they aren't going together is a possible bent pin until finally it is either it's going to get clipped together or it's going to have a few zip-tie accessories.
YES! I am not alone!!
@@SouthMainAutoBest video of all.
I have that same original vantage. I have the last software to 2003 I think it's when they stopped updating it. had a brickbox 2500 and this vantage those tools Combined In 2001 when I was 19 I was a bad a**. I recently managed Is a shop shop before I started my own. the guys all laughed at me and said that thing was outdated. I laughed at them and said let's see your fluke do this And has some cool connector pin out Tech info. sorry Young guys don't mess with a man and it's old tools. It was on a 4.0 and I mapped injector pulse To prove to our resident know-it-all that had a bad injector. cause I could spray carb clean and it would pick up. if I underplug The injector No idle change Didn't need that tool to figure that out but Teaching class is always fun Thank you sir your videos are amazing You're wiring and circuit diagnostic skills are as good as It gets
i need to get better at diagnosing I would of just check injectors with my node light and I would of sold a sensor 10 out of 10. so far but I need to slow down and check. my wires. Good job keep up the good work.
Yep it could have been a broken wire...
As always Great Job Eric O! And I can't agree with you more about the crappy Chinese parts. Can't tell you how many times I have purchased parts only to have the wire to short or the connector not right or it just doesn't work! But your videos are excellent so keep them coming!
HAHA! yeah did a crank sensor on one of these Jeeps for a friend. He told me it was the problem so I changed it. After getting up in there and getting it changed I found it wasn't the problem. Told him TY for the extra unneeded work!
Well- what was the *actual* problem?
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP After I replaced the cam sensor it started and ran. He had already worked on it so some stuff was already messed before. But that fixed it.
pfff...98%ers hahah
1st thing always check fuel rail for pressure.... but after that...The fastest way to check crank sensor is put a test light on the fuse box under the hood rear center 20a fuse if that turns on when you wind the engine over you crank sensor is good, if it turns on, next thing is ohm your coil out if it's out of spec its bad replace it. Also one check under dis cap, make sure dis shaft is not loose..... jeeps are easy to diagnose and repair... with the 4.0 you can easily fix it in 30mins if you have the parts on hand... crank sensor is #1 problem #2 is coil to check the computer just use test light to ground signal wire from cps you should hear clicking and everything getting ready to fire if you dont check comp fuse, if it's good your computer may have took a dump...test with known good one before buying a new one... very seldom you see a bad cam pos sensor... jeeps are so easy to work on it's a piece of cake.....
Eric I said quite a few choice words when I had to replace the Crank Sensor on my wife's GM 3800 v-6.
Might be lots of ckp sensor vids out there, but not one with a made in China rant on it!!!
i think I'm the only one in my shop that goes off on this cheap china parts rant too. It's like you cant even get decent stuff anymore even if you want to pay more for it..... I'm right there with you on the quality of parts these days Eric O
Having pushed my Cherokee around with a bad crank sensor I can confirm they do not roll well. Haha. Great tip on the tac not working, and like three feet of extensions to get the ratchet behind the transfer case is the way to do it. Having done this sensor twice going OEM seems to be the best bet.
They roll like a square wheel!
An important lesson " do not become emotionally involved with inanimate objects "
Had nothing but problems with "BWD". Did a starter solenoid on my old Bronco II and it had hair line cracks though out the plastic. Went to tighten the battery/starter pole connections- It promptly fell apart under very very slight torque to snug the nuts down. Wound up going to NAPA and getting their "gold" line (more junk....it fused the solenoid contacts after the 3rd start....) 3rd time was a charm and got one that worked...
It might be made in China, but the specification were done by BWD. The only way to solve this problem is to quit buying inferior parts, but that cheap price as compared to OEM is so intoxicating, that we always choose cheap over quality. Great video as always and it appears that Chloe is a regular member of the family.
It's just as likely that the BWD specs were spot on, but the manufacturing was let out to a shop with poor ability to control tolerances. Still a BWD problem in the end.
Ive found taking the shifter linkage loose and out of the way works good then a chunk of twine dropped down on the driver side to tie to the harness and you can pull the harness around the back of the engine works well
Yea I changed that crank sensor today. Had my son pulling that harness back. Still won't start thou. 97 grand cherokee
I was so excited when I found this video. Jeep had been running when parked last week but would not start and multiple scanners didn't show any codes. With the key method I finally learned P0320 was the cause. Got the bolt out without too much trouble using the inside access method, but I am stuck at the cussing and cursing part. I am amazed how stuck it is and prying is just not doing it. Is there a best method for getting the sensor out without breaking it off?
I guess this was filmed before the camera took a fall/hit while plowing with the H since you can see what the camera sees. That job had to be a pisser I imagine! Great video as always. Keep'em comin'!
Had to buy a new camera haha but yes this one was done while it was still good and working.
South Main Auto Repair Figured it was. Probably wasn't worth it to send in to get a new flip screen. Also you should periodically format your sd cards when you empty them to avoid them becoming corrupt.
Oh man that camera was hammered. It had been dropped, smacked, sprayed, chipped, taped and glued a couple of times.
You should have a tribute to it and then have a send off the SMA way and "format" it. All filmed with the replacement for your viewers' pleasure of course.
Jon Rushing hmm you are onto something right there...
Hey Eric....is there a way to tell if it’s the crank sensor if I don’t have the equipment that you have...it’s a 96 grand Cherokee....sometimes starts and sometimes doesn’t
bigmike 79 any solutions? Mine shuts off while running and won’t start after an hour
watch your RPM when it plays up, its the bad crank sensor if you have no RPM signal
Mine was PCM "powertrain control module" on firewall right behind coolant bottle. I replaced every little parts I threw at it and gave up, took to shop the mechanic said bad o2 sensor but still same problem so I google up it was pcm!!! The pcm threw fake codes that's why mechanic depends on his code reader!!!
Bought mine rebuilt pcm off of Amazon. The motherboard in pcm gone bad with crack or broken solders.
I woke my chow Samson up when I laughed so hard when the key was off just b/c I've done that more than once. Hmmm I have no voltage to none of my pins I'm onto something...oh yea let me turn the key "on" crap! Glad to see the customer agreed to a new crank sensor b/c putting in a used one if I'd have done it would immediately have with it a warranty good until it rolled out the door but then again some aftermarket sensors are like playing craps with crap. Nice video and definitely entertaining!
Lets see... new aftermarket or used OEM... hmmm that is a toss up. About the same.
Great Video. Ain't it fun when the sensors are up against the body or something else!
there's a passage on the driver side transmission tunnel under the carpet you can get right to the head of the bolt and the sensor that way
for the home DIY guys with no scope; you can back-probe the CKP sensor Signal wire, and turn the engine by hand, and watch for the change from 5v to 0v to 5v on a meter.
Thanks mate!
Just incase anyone is replacing the sensor (crank shaft position sensor) there is an access hole near the gas pedal to undo the bolt for the sensor
There's a panel you can take out of the driver side floor that gives you a straight shot at the bolt for the crank position sensor on those Jeeps.
Really in the interior?
heyitschinoable Yeah, I think there are a few videos on UA-cam about it. Makes the job a little quicker.
+GRowe1978 Nice to know, thanks for the tip man.
What in the thunder!? Are you kidding me?
South Main Auto Repair It's right under the carpet on the driver side.
Real life stuff there! you should leave the audio recording so we can here all the fun! LOL
Napa might be good choice for crank sensor maybe Advanced as a last chance alternative
i had a similar problem on my sisters jeep it was a fault in the security system in the rear hatch.you had to unlock the rear hatch by key everytime you wanted to start it..just thought id mention it..great vids
you can gain access to the crank sensor from where the shift cables go under the dash once you pull back the plate its right there
I was about to write that, the ZJ, and probably the WJ chassis's had a access panel under the dash specifically to gain access to that sensor. unfortunately not on the old XJ's, it's a PITA to get to it.
I never knew about that technique of turning the key 4 (?) times to get it to display a fault code. Is that a Chrysler thing or do (some) other cars do it too?
It’s 3 times actually.... and it’s a Jeep thing as mine does it. Super cool and very convenient
Yes, it is a Chrysler thing, not just Jeep.
Just throwing it out there, but rule #1 for crank sensors on all the Jeep forums is "Mopar sensor ONLY". Rule #2 is "See rule #1".
Yes, the Mopar sensors are FAR more expensive, but Jeeps are notoriously picky about their engine-critical sensors and non-Mopar crank sensors are famous for rapid failure (as in less than a year). The forums are full of tales of woe from people who went with an aftermarket sensor and either it failed within months or they suffered poor/intermittent bad running until they went with a Mopar sensor and all the problems went away.
It's such a PITA changing a Jeep crank sensor that it makes sense to pony up for the OEM sensor and be pretty sure you won't have to do it again in the lifetime of the vehicle.
If you search around YT I think you can find a video that goes into this subject in depth and puts a scope on an OEM and aftermarket crank sensor to demonstrate the difference in waveforms.
same with the condenser.
Oh man that poor Jeep. I live in Hawaii (salty air, of course) and I'm glad mine doesn't look that. There's a few bubbles starting up, but nothing I can't hit with a grinder.
hit this with a grinder and it all disappears haha
hey man honestly the most helpful video I've seen cause I have a 1993 jeep grand cherokee v8 5.2 and I could really use some advice on how exactly to do this...thank you
There is a access hole on the trans tunnel under the carpet..For future reference..
great video ...love the attitude and sarcasm...makes the video that much better...so true though on using garbage parts. To put the icing on the cake, have you ever run into getting a new part that is faulty. This is where you feel like losing your mind. You are diagnosing an electrical problem through trial and error only to find the part that you are relying on is broken or faulty so then you trouble shoot to the next possibility only to realize that you were right in the first place but the part was chinese garbage. Dont know how you can do this job day and day out. I feel your pain. And if you are a guy that gets paid by the job, you have more time into the job than you should so you lose money they need higher standards.
Hey Eric, I have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with a 4.0,4WD,A/T.....have had an intermittent start, stall and jerk. Took it to shop and they probably put one of those BWD CPS on it. Ran ok for a week but had a louder exhaust sound and it jerked from 3rd gear to OD plus it stalled a few times in the driveway. Was going to see if the ECM would learn the new CPS and adjust itself. Two days later it would never start again. Shop said it had fuel pressure and I could smell gas. Pulled coil wire and did the arc test so has spark. One thing I haven't done is watch the tach though so I have now replaced the distributor recommended by the shop. Its a Car Quest. Thought I installed it right. Had a Code 54 which pointed to the CPS and distributor. Still no start so I thought it might be the aftermarket CPS which I have read that they go bad very quick and the shop owner agreed so I put a Mopar CPS in it and still no start. The shop owner did say to make sure that the distributor is in properly and not a tooth off. So now Im fooling with the distributor and its way off now. I have the No.1 spark plug out and most of the time I have no one to assist me. What is that tool called that you thread into the spark plug hole and whistles to let you know that you are on the compression stroke? Thought I heard some click in the relay fuse box. You don't think that the Auto Shutdown Relay is a culprit do you? One last thing, even though the timing is computer controlled, is there a mark on the harmonic balancer so I can get TDC...?
I love ur vids Eric. Very educational. I work on my 88M3 often, and like ur slim led worklight. I gotta get me one!
I'm with you on the crap parts. I'v found removing the right inner fender well makes it easy to replace. Also in a perfect world. OE crank sensors on Jeep is the only way to go. I've seen to many problems with after market crank sensors on jeeps. As I'm sure you have to.
Haha remember Tim you live in FL... Inner fenders come out in FL. In upstate NY we take the inner fender out, well the fender falls off haha
True I didn't think about that. Were spoiled here. In the sun shine state.
Timothy Cooper good old rust!
good stuff thanks, this helped me fix the nephews 01 grand cherokee. that no start monster hidden down in the safety switch wiring
I changed mine in 15 minutes... drop shifter cable, remove from bracket and you can get your hand up there... reassembly was simple , bwd small amount of silicon Greasemonkey male side and it snaps right in. Job done .
I've had faulty parts from the dealer so the aftermarket is sometimes my first choice. I have to admit though, you have to own the noisiest shop in town, w/ all that passing traffic, lawn service etc.
The hood props are a head saver on the older vehicles !! Must have been a day for crank sensors I did one on a Altima. It was from China to🙅
At least those on the 4 bangers are easy to get at!
+South Main Auto Repair six cylinder. not bad just use a mirror 😋
and the classic reach around?
👍👍
I tried replacing mine - I even bought the Mopar sensor. But in order to actually replace it since it sits at the top of the bell housing, you need the greased hands of a Chinaman. I ended up giving up and taking it to the dealer to install after two days of "vocabulary exploration". I was SO hoping you would have shown how to replace it, but as you've experienced, it's a pain
Pain is not the word...
You know you can access it from inside the firewall right? You can peel the center console and rug back and there is an access port for that.
After all JEEP is a 4 letter word is it not? I like to see the old school vantage at work A great tool that.
This was a great video man. Subscribed!
Love the old school Vantage "scope" Wish they still made them. Have 1 that's broken....Snap On offers no service to fix.
Hi I am in need of help I have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 was having starting issues and dieing out one day with death shake. Believe it was fuel pump. Replaced it workd for a day and half. Then started no crank no start up thing so followed that path with crank sensor started cranking but no start replaced asd relay same issue still. Replaced started same issue. Replaced cam sensor same issue. had friend helping today did see that fuel pressure is good. Just cranks and cranks still.
ugh
cool video Eric! China parts are the norm now and days as you know it. Bought many parts from dealership Ford to be exact, air bag module, 04 Ford crown Victoria. oh I think it cost $235.00- $280ish made in China! I had to think did I just get it from a dealership! did they get it from AutoZone? haha nope just China, straight from the boat! I'm sure the part cost the dealership $ 29.99 haha.
Woo!! same code as my 02 PT cruiser right now!
Yes! I hate BWD parts. Nothing but problems from my experience.
I agree dealership parts is the way to go if you can.
yet again another great video keep them coming
I have had bad luck with BWD combination switches for our 99 cavalier. I went through five of them granted the lights are on 30 plus hours a week at night. Soo after getting fed up with the crap I went and got the ACDELCO switch for $148.00 and installed it since I got sick of reinstalling the cheap 55 dollar one from Autozone and cheaper switch from Advanced. Well I'm pretty sure tthe autozone was bwd just in a autozone box after all the part number is located in same spot on both switches. It has been over two months with the OEM and still running strong. Same problem a shop here in town had with a chevy van of some sort and went to the OEM switch and that lasted 6 months sooo it is what it is. Oh yea the switches failed in the same fashion, the lows would not stay on unless the handle was held in its sweet spot and after a while they would stay on it was shitty well take care Eric O.
Eric in thought u did jeep with o2 sensor problem looked can't find so far
Hey Eric ... nice vid , I can feel your pain on that crank sensor as I have done several...also have 3 jeeps of my own, that being said I also like using OEM parts but not always practical as I had to change a crank sensor on my kids 97 Cherokee in the street on the Oregon Coast...not fun
Got 97 also and replaced the same thing today and nothing. Just died going down the highway for no reason and will not start
do all late model Chrysler s have the code display by 3 key on cycles?
I'm interested to know if it worked for any length of time. I replaced mine with an aftermarket one and it lasted about 60 miles and then got an original Mopar one.
You mentioned in the beginning of the video, the security light is not blinking. What was the fix for those particular problems? My jeep has intermittent start issues from time to time and that's exactly what happens when it doesn't want to start. I'll add that when security light blinks I hear a buzzing noise. The starter is brand new though with everything connected properly
One of the advantages of DIY is being able to choose your parts- not like a Shop, that is at the mercy of a Parts Vendor. Being hesitant to let you diagnose it- tells you the Customer isn't familiar with your work; a correct and timely repair is crucial at these times, to make a good first impression, and assure a returning Customer. Word of mouth is the cheapest and most powerful form of advertising; all it takes is a satisfied Customer. This repair was simple- compared to an older GM like my Buick, where you're pulling brackets, Harmonic Balancer, fighting the old part off, then adjusting the air gap on the new- unless you have the special "J-Tool" to set it.
Well unfourtunatly this customer told me he is never come to my shop again. Evidently 3 days after he left my shop the rear tranny line rusted off it and started leaking and he was told it was all my fault. After I declined to pay for it out of my pocket for him to have it fixed somewhere else he decided to not come back. Hey , whatever. I did the best job I could. I got it running. I charged a fair price and I didn't make it rust out. Life goes on.
*WOW*.
+South Main Auto Repair you should be glad that he never comes back, if thats what passes for logical thinking from him. And I couldnt agree more with you about foreign made junk. Bwd, smp, duralast, echlin, etc. all junk. Its so depressing everytime i see that "made in china" crap on a product.
The fact that he went to another shop first before coming back to you and saying, hey my tranny is leaking now, says it all. Add that to the fact that he was parts swapping and couldn't figure it out either says he doesn't know what he's doing or his "other shop" doesn't know what they're doing. It's disappointing when someone says something like that but I have to believe the quality work you do keeps you plenty busy without him.
johnaclark1 I am not to worried about it trust me. When I am booking 2 weeks out for appointments I'd say I am liked more than I am hated haha
Hello, Thank you so much for this video... I did replaced my crank sensor for my 03 grand cherokee 4.0 with your video walk-through... Unfortunately, I'm still getting engine misfires throwing P1391 code on the dash this time. I got a BWD brand crank sensor you used on this video ... The initial code problem was P0320. After I replaced the crank sensor it did start & ran then a different problem code arose.. Long story short, to date I've replaced 3 different parts respective to the P codes it was giving namely: Crank sensor (BWD) , Cam sensor (mopar) , & ignition coil pack (delphi) since it gave those problem codes as well after I replaced the crank sensor at first. Anyhow, the engine starts & runs then misfires/shakes after a bit of driving. Kindly let me know what you think when you get a chance. Do you supposed it is necessary to get the original part( crank sensor) for this ? Thank you much! Reuben PS. Do these (newly replaced) sensors need reprogramming with PCM?
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I did a speed sensor on my 99 Sable with the DOHC without dropping the subframe laying on my back,4 hrs later it was in but i hope i never have to do it again 1/4 turn at a time and each time the wrench fell because there was not enough room for my fingers to hold it once it turned then the connector was half way up the firewall so i had to get a piece of wire and spiral it around the upper connectot while trying to line it up and push it in with a screwdriver while doing this i was being lazy trying to work around the 02 sensor and broke the top of it off and that was another project because that also lays half up the firewall and the only way to get the connector in was to go through the pass wheel well with the connector taped to a long piece of 1in pvc pipe and that click was one of the best sounds i ever heard when it went in.
I had similar problem no fire on 2000 cherokee 4.0 thought pcm was out or crank sensor took light tester to fuse box had power to fuel pump but nothing on injectors, put jumper wire to horn fuse and ran to injector fuse. Started right up. So checked pcm fuse it was bad. Also can by pass pcm if needed, if fuel pump fuse shows no power or injector fuse, run jumper from any live fuse horn ect. To fuel pump or injectors fuse they become live and can start to get you home it does work saved my butt today. Hope helps
Eric...do me a favor...drink lots of beer when ya get home...great video ..cheers for the videoing, editing , screening , and uploading.....that probably took more time to do than the job itself .......DRINK SOMETHING !!!!
Eric Just change engine after 3 pistons failed.I tested Crank sensor Just like you did, and it tested out. power on both leads unplugged and back probed. Still no start. No voltage at Coil, Just tested injectors (no power) did compression test all 6 cylinders 150+. When testing wires from PCM to Power distribution box, dumb luck plugging in 1 PCM wire harness the ASD relay clicked, Yea start it up. Crap NOPE no start. Do we need a new PCM?
I have a 2000 jeep and it's not rusty at all 172 k so far not one issue with it other then I just had a new radiator put in old one leaked bad the hood struts on this one still hold up the hood Ac is working too also no strange electrical issues but all maintenance is done on time. I even run a synthetic oil in it wash it weekly.
I shiver every time I see BWD on a package. It's literally the same at Standard Motor Products T-Series garbage (same manufacturing line). I've found SMPs normal (read: expensive) line to be pretty good most of the time, but with prices sometimes approaching dealer parts, I tend to call it "good in a pinch."
Yeah , BWD , SMP , Echlin... all the same factory, same crap...
Really great video. 11:30 is my favorite part. .
I know what you mean about off shore replacement parts and you're right about lots of videos on jeep crank sensors but I like yours the best. At least you tested it. BWD=Broken when delivered....HaHaHa
Excellent video, and I agree with your comments on cheap Chinese parts. Thanks.
I saw it coming in the early 90s. Bendix, aimco rotors started to go away at the local parts stores. The counter guy would say the Korean / Chinese rotors have lifetime warranty... great I love taking my brakes apart every two months because my teeth are chattering down the Highway! 🇺🇸🇯🇵🇨🇳
Have you ever seen a crank sensor go bad intermittently? I have code 0320 on my PT Cruiser and it dies randomly and sometimes will crank but not start and then will randomly start up and run again. I'm trying to confirm that it either is or is not the sensor (maybe bad wiring instead) but I'm kinda at a loss due to the intermittent nature of the problem.
Man I spend a month tracking down the problem and it was failure to use a Mopar CMP. I ran fresh Mopar 16ga, insulated wiring with freshly lain loom. the signal off the crank is important to recall to tap signal to the transmission as it uses crank signal, as well as, PCM. My signals when tested showed incredibly distorted signal barely readable. No need to tap signal with a probe, if your using an Oscope they make a clamp on induction probe clips over the wiring. The signal was so bad it looked like static. On both CMP and CKP. I spent 15- 20 hours and guess what I was using? a third party CMP red box SMP it was worthless. I also ran new 5v DC, signal, and clean ground to connection points. All that and it was a freaking weak third party non mopar factor sensor was the problem. Now I get clean uniform signal easily discernable. One good thing? was I bought a bi-directional multi platform TopDon diagnostic device with Factory level, trans mission relearn, also I had some funky injector fuses. 200k across a fuse??? That alone improved gas mileage. The injector relearn and trans relearn smoothed out shifting into and out of park. No more clunking or drawn out engagement off of idle into drive. Oh and the real boner? I installed a new PCM from flash masters that really smoothed out operation. Only makes. Sense to install an updated PCM as this is the 3rd enjine it was an expensive month but lesson learned and my jeep runs better than an HO I was let try. I've got a cam and 08 intakes and solid lifters etc ..... Etc..... etc......etc etc. a note, the PCM is truly a marvel. All those mods, e new engine and a trans torque delete and no probl3m!
I have a 94 and 96 Grand Cherokee.Both with V8s.I went to two shops to get a full tune up on the 94.Cap,rotor, wires, plugs
One said the did't even want to do it.The other said its so hard to get to that they wanted $600 to do it.The stuff is so crammed in there that it is a nightmare to work on.
how does he do the key code thing? 3 clicks to on pos?
Oh man, it's only been 6 days, but feels like forever since I last watched a video of yours!Great as always. I have replaced quite a few of these in my life, and I also always seem to struggle as much as you say. I own a Liberty, and had to replace the CKS on it. Marginally easier, but still a B!£$&.
thanks for info and the sticker details because i removed the sticker because it was glued in one little spot .
If I were to buy a vehicle and it came from New York would you recommend buying it not to offend you or anything but I see a lot of rust on them and they are fairly new vehicles
What kind of test did you do on the component?
question....I finally got my interior electrical components to working again and after watching this video I tried the switch to check for codes....I got 12....but there's no check engine light on, so does that mean it's all good?! thanks!!
If you had to buy "non-dealer" parts, who do you that has the best aftermarket parts? Advanced Auto, NAPA, AutoZone, O'Rileys.
Question. Can you use a power probe in fuel eject mode or Hz mode to determine a crank or cam sensor is working? Thanks for the vid.
I just fixed my '02 wj i followed your procedures, turns out to be the camshaft position sensor. Thank you so much your videos help a whole lot again thank you:)
Cheer up brotha! Good vid, thanks!!!
Hey Eric where do I get one of those awesome SMA T shirts or Sweatshirts.
Is the snapoN vintage pro still available in de market??
I've got a wrangler down rite now with the same issue but I took the sensor out and tested it and it read good I guess it my cam sensor
Great video! If I pay your way out to Ct will you diagnose my jeep crank but no start?
Kind of a long story but will try to give you the condensed version. I bought the car with a blown motor, did a rebuild on the 4.7 got it running. On start up noticed the fan was running at full speed at idle. Also alt was not charging, the code was p0017 or low voltage at coolant temperature sensor. I started chasing down wires and found the pin on the ecm for the cts had no power.I figured must be the ecm so I replaced that, however nothing changed still no power at cts pin. I tried to take juice from the map sensor but that set off the skim now I get a crank but no start. I went through the grounds they are all clean and tight, tried even running new grounds to the ecm/bcm nothing. I tried the reset ecm numerous times still nothing. The next thing I'm going to try is to have the ecm programmed without the skim as a last resort. Ha- ha this was supposed to be a easy project! Might have bit of more than I can chew. Lol! My contact info is jhar10423@gmail.com
Thank you